© 2012 Brilliance Press. All rights reserved.

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LAKE KARIBA, ZAMBIA

By M.G. Edwards

My wife and I went on a short weekend getaway

to Lake Kariba in February 2011. What an

amazing not-so-hidden gem. Few people have

heard of this body of water that happens to be

the world’s largest artificial lake and reservoir.

Straddling the Zambian-Zimbabwean border, it

was created in 1958 during the construction of

the Kariba Dam when it was near completion,

and engineers sealed the dam and flooded what

had once been a large valley in the Zambezi

River Basin. Lake Kariba is overshadowed in

Zambia and Zimbabwe by nearby Victoria Falls,

arguably the world’s largest waterfalls, as well

as by game parks and private reserves scattered

throughout the region. I think that Lake Kariba

holds its own as a tourist destination, and I

recommend a visit to anyone planning a trip to

see the falls.

Hippopotamuses, crocodiles, baboons, freshwater fish, and several bird species call

the lake home, although they make fewer appearances than one would expect for such a

large body of water. The wildlife that attracts gawking tourists is concentrated further east

in the game parks of the lower Zambezi River Basin. Nevertheless, the lake does not lack

for vegetation and scenic beauty. Whenever the lake comes up as a potential travel

destination, locals tend to respond “don’t swim in the water!” because it is a breeding

ground for bilharzia, or schistosomiasis, a snail-borne parasitic disease, and crocodiles.

Avoiding the water notwithstanding, Lake Kariba is well worth a visit, especially if you

want to enjoy a quick getaway to a place with scenic views and a relatively safe natural

environment. While the area offers few children’s activities, families can still enjoy what

it has to offer. Don’t forget to pack some books or games for the kids to alleviate

boredom. The weather varies during the rainy season, so it's important to check the

weather conditions before visiting the lake.

We stayed at the aging Lake Kariba Inns, one

of the nicer resorts in the town of Siavonga,

Zambia that passed as a three-star hotel. At just

over US$100 per night during the off-season in

2011, the price was reasonable compared to

some overpriced Zambian safari lodges that

charged upwards of $400 per night. The room

was clean and comfortable, although like many

rural lodges, it was still infested with its fair

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share of unwanted critters. The ants carried off

any food in sight, so we had to keep it sealed. The

villas with lakefront verandas had gorgeous views

of the lake. I deluded myself into thinking that I

was on the Mediterranean when I lounged on the

veranda, an illusion that lasted as long as it took

for the fishermen plying on crayfish and fish to

pass by in their large trawlers. The resort’s

amenities included a large gym and a poolside bar with a pool table and Ping-Pong table.

The waterfront restaurant served decent food with

a decidedly Indian flavor; the curry and yogurt

dishes were tasty. We were disappointed that the

inn had run out of crayfish, a local specialty. Lake

Kariba Inns' Achilles' heel was its average

customer service. Some staff members were

helpful; some were not. Whenever the buffet was

served in the restaurant, it was virtually

impossible to order room service.

Lake Kariba Inns sits atop one of the

promontories overlooking Siavonga with its own

harbor with boats ready to take guests on an

affordable, two-hour lake cruise to the top of the

Kariba Dam and lake islands. The lake cruise was

well worth the money. It left in the late afternoon

not long before sundown. My wife and I basked

in the glow of an African sunset from Sampa

Karuma Island, a deserted island on the

Zimbabwean side of the lake (no visa needed).

Although the weather was calm for most of the

cruise, the waves kicked up after sunset, and we

held on as the boat rocked its way back to shore.

Many lodges are located in and around

Siavonga. Lake Safari Lodge, Eagle’s Rest, and

Sandy Beach are other popular lodging options.

Although we did not visit any of them, we were

under impression that they were comparable to

Lake Kariba Inns. For those who want to

experience the lake up close and personal, Protea

Hotels launched in 2011 the Southern Belle Hotel, a former steamboat converted into a

floating resort. The Southern Belle operated in Lake Kariba for years before Protea

refurbished it.

To view or tour Kariba Dam from Siavonga, drive to the Zambia-Zimbabwe border

about eight kilometers (five miles) from town, park at the border post, and ask Zambian

Immigration for a gate pass. You can walk from there down to the Zambezi River for

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good views below the dam; the gate pass will permit you to reenter Zambia. You can also

see it from the Zimbabwean side. The dam’s spillway opens fully in early February,

allowing water that built up from the rainy season to pass down the Zambezi River. While

not as spectacular as Victoria Falls, the dam is still worth a look-see. Constructed

between 1955 and 1959 by the Italians, it was being expanded by the Chinese when we

visited.

The town of Siavonga on the shores of Lake

Kariba is a mixture of homes, hotels and resorts,

and a central district with local businesses. Some

wealthier Zambians own second (or third) homes

on the lake. The hilly terrain around the town is

ideal for walks and hikes. Lake Kariba Inns has a

beach walkway that follows the lake and a game

walk with great views of the lake. The streets of Siavonga are fun to explore on foot. We

were told that the area is relatively safe for

tourists; however, it’s important to be aware of

your surroundings if you choose to tour the town.

Leave valuables at the hotel.

If you want to enjoy the outdoors in Southern

Africa but are not in the mood to go on safari, or

you are looking for an extra stop on your visit to

Zambia or Zimbabwe, see what Lake Kariba has

to offer.

M.G. Edwards is a writer of books and stories in the mystery, thrill and science fiction-

fantasy genres. He also writes travel adventures. He recently published a collection of

short stories called Real Dreams: Thirty Years of Short Stories available as an ebook and

in print on Amazon.com. His upcoming travel novel, Kilimanjaro: One Man’s Quest to

Go Over the Hill, will be available in March 2012. He lives in Bangkok, Thailand with

his wife Jing and son Alex. For books and stories by M.G. Edwards, visit his web site at

www.mgedwards.com.

© 2012 Brilliance Press. All rights reserved. No part of this work may be

reproduced or transmitted without the written consent of the author. For more

information, please contact the author at me@mgedwards.com.