la viticoltura e l’enologia del prossimo … · monika christmann presidente organisation...
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MONIKA CHRISTMANN Presidente Organisation internationale de la vigne et du vin (Oiv)
Responsabile Istituto per l’Enologia Hochschule - Geisenheim
LA VITICOLTURA E L’ENOLOGIA
DEL PROSSIMO TRENTENNIO
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• Harvesting Techniques
• Transport systems
• Destemmer / Crusher
• Skin Contact Time
• Pressing
• Must Clarification (use of enzymes…)
• (Pasteurisation)
• Yeast Selection
• Fermentation Temperature
FOCUS IN LAST 20 YEARS WAS ON OPTIMIZING TECHNOLOGIES
„Gentle Grape Processing“
To minimize mechanical stress and avoid bitterness and
off-flavours in wine
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Fachgebiet Kellerwirtschaft 86 07.06.2016
WHAT IS COMING ?
WHY?
(THE FUTURE HAS ALREADY STARTED!)
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WHY ?
1. Climate change
2. Technical progress
3. Economical aspects of new vers. traditional techniques
4. Increased demand in in field of consumer protection
5. Change in consumer expectation
6. Stronger international competition
7. International harmonisation of rules and laws ……
87
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Fachgebiet Kellerwirtschaft 88 07.06.2016
WHAT PROBLEMS SHOULD WE EXPECT?
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Fachgebiet Kellerwirtschaft 89 07.06.2016
PREDICTED CHANGE OF TEMPERATUR IN EUROPE
Schär et al. (2004) Nature 427, 332-336
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Fachgebiet Kellerwirtschaft 90 07.06.2016
2000 PROGNOSIS:
SINCE 2003 FACTS:
Low Acidity, high pH
More Alcohol
More Rot / Botrytis
Sun burn, Pinking, Environmental Impact (fire)…
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PREDICTED TRENDS (TSS)
Hofmann und Schultz, in prep.
To
tal S
olu
ble
So
lids [
o O
e]
year
Geisenheim , warm scenario
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IMPACT OF CLIMATE CHANGE
Conibear 2006
Scholten et al. 2013
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1°C rise in temperature ~ is connected to an increase of wine ranking by (100-Punkte Sceme):
→21,5 P. Rhein; 20,8 P. Mosel; 12,7 P. Burgundy; 10,4P. St.Emilon+Pomerol
G.V.Jones et al. 2005 Klimadaten 1950-1999
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Gesam
tsäure
(gL
-1)
Hofmann und Schultz, in prep.
PREDICTED TRENDS (TA) (RIESLING 1951 - 2091)
To
tal a
cid
ity [g L
-1]
year
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cold - hot
dry
- w
et
pre
cip
itati
on
[mm
]
average daily temperature [o C]
Temperature and rainfall during the ripening period [1955-2014, Geisenheim]
Schultz, H.R., and Hofmann, M. (2015).
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WATER STRESS 2003; FUTURE???
Gruber and Schultz, 2005
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Fachgebiet Kellerwirtschaft 97 07.06.2016
PROBLEMS + REACTIONS
Low acidity + high pH
Reaction: Acid addition, Bipolare Membranes
More Alcohol
Reaction: Alcohol reduction, Sugar reduction
Sun burn, Environmental impact (Fire…),
Rot, Botrytis
Reaction:„non-allergenic fining materials“, Membrane processes
--- new technologies
--- traditional methods OIV responsibilities!
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Fachgebiet Kellerwirtschaft 98 07.06.2016
ALCOHOL MANAGEMENT
We need Flexibility depending on the vintage!
- Increase (traditional) or
- Reduction (new) of alcohol or sugar!
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Alcohol reduces
Fruit
Aroma intensity
Acidity
´
Alcohol inceases
Warmness
Body
Adstringency
Sweetness
Saltiness? (Yu& Pickering 2008)
SENSORICAL IMPACT OF ALCOHOL
Schmitt, 2015
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Fachgebiet Kellerwirtschaft 100 07.06.2016
ALCOHOL REDUCTION
In Must
1. Vineyard adaptation
2. Sugar reduction by Filtration
3. „Non - productive“ Yeasts
4. Enzymatic reduction of sugar
5. Water addition
BMELV-Project in Geisenheim started in 2010 until May 2014
OIV will start to focus on microbiological options in the upcoming
years
In Wine
1. All physical Techniques accepted
2. Max. 20% reduction of existing alcohol
with no declaration
3. „Discontent“ in Southern Europe and
Overseas
4. New product „categories“ demanded
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IMPACT OF PARTIAL ALCOHOL REDUCTION BY 2% VOL
No differences at -2% vol. control vs triangle test!
(vergl. Schmitt 2015, Urbano et al. 2007, Lisanti et al. 2012, Bes et al. 2010., Meillon et al. 2010 und Diban et al. 2008)
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At 2% vol. Alcohol reduction no significant differences for the various techniques
IMPACT OF PARTIAL ALCOHOL REDUCTION BY 2% VOL.
A A A A A
0,00
0,50
1,00
1,50
2,00
2,50
3,00
3,50
4,00
Durchschn. Rangziffer
2012er Weissburgunder
n= 2x12
Schmitt 2015
2012 Pinot blanc
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At 2% vol. Alcohol reduction no significant differences for the various techniques
IMPACT OF PARTIAL ALCOHOL REDUCTION BY 2% VOL.
n= 2x12
Schmitt 2015
A A A A A A
0,000,501,001,502,002,503,003,504,004,50
Durchschn. Rangziffer
2012er Riesling 2012 Riesling
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Fachgebiet Kellerwirtschaft 105 07.06.2016
ACID MANAGEMENT
Acid Addition (legal)
Tartaric acid
Malic acid
Lactic acid
(Citric acid)
max. 4 g/l
(measured as Tartaric acid)
Restriction in EU:
1,5 g/l in must
2,5 g/l in wine
Was in pipeline (now legal):
„Concentration“ of acids in wine by
reduction of specific minerals
(Filtration with bipolar membranes
similiar to Electro-Dialysis)
=> Opinion of some experts: More
„natural“ than acid addition
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Fachgebiet Kellerwirtschaft 106 07.06.2016
„FACE“ TO ESTABLISH AN „“EARLY WARNING SYSTEM
Geisenheimer Free Air Carbon Dioxide Enrichment - FACE
für Sonderkulturen
ObstReben ZierpflanzenGemüse
2010 –1-jährige Kulturen
Freiland-Infrastruktur zur Überprüfung der Wirkungzukünftiger Klimabedingungen auf den Anbau (Boden-Pflanze-Atmosphäre), die biotischen (Mikroorganismen,Pflanzenpathogene)– und abiotischen Interaktionen mitunterschiedlichen Umweltfaktoren (z.B. Wasser,Temperatur), die stoffliche Zusammensetzung derProdukte sowie deren Sensorik und Verarbeitung
mehrjährige Kulturen einjährige Kulturen
Working Package
2
Working Package
1• Anbau –abiotische Interaktionen
Wasser + Temperatur
Working Package
3
• Produktqualität (Inhaltsstoffe)
• Prozessqualität (Sensorik)
Working Package
4• Modellierung – Bilanzierung
• Anbau –biotische Interaktionen Mikroorganismen,
Pflanzenkrankheiten
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TECHNICAL PROGRESS
Every enological treatment has its reasons and is based
on the technical possibilities at the time!
But
The stone ages did not end because all of a sudden they were running out of stones!
(Prof. Dr. Sakkie Pretorius AWRI)
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European Wine industry often very concerned about
new developments!
Emotional discussion about: „Industrial wines versus hand crafted wines“
Where is the limit?
How can this be determined?
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Fachgebiet Kellerwirtschaft 109 07.06.2016
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EXAMPLE: FILTRATION
Is a sheet filtration with 2-3 plates ok and the same
filter with 100 plates already industrial?
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TOO OFTEN OVERLOOKED:
ALL TRADITIONAL TECHNIQUES ARE ALSO
CONSTANTLY RE-EVALUATED BY OIV!
(and if necessary taken of the list !)
1
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ECONOMICAL ASPECTS
(NEW UND TRADITIONAL TECHNOLOGIES)
• Barrique – Chips
• Aging „sur lie“ – Addition of Mannoproteins
• Cold stabilization – Addition of Metatartaric acid or CMC
• Filtration – DMDC (Velcorin)
• Additive – substractive Enrichment
• Acid addition - „Filtration“ with bipolare Membranes
not all new Techniques are lower in cost!
Product „Quality“ also taken into consideration!
112
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CONSUMER PROTECTION
???? important! But consider circumstances!!!
• „Allergenic“ Fining Materials Is there really a risk?
Demand of declaration ; new products i.e. made from potatoes?
Standardized wine making procedures (EFSA)
• SO2 as Biozid no Alternatives for barrels!
Risk without use of SO2 much higher!
Or no more barrels???
• SO2 in general Discussion about reduction is very dangerous!
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CONSUMER DEMAND / EXPECTATIONS
• Traceability (existing law !!!!)
Every consumer has the right to get information with what material the wine has
been treated or been in contact with!
• „Transparent“ Wine
• No Residues
• Healthy
• (Traditional)
• Sustainable
• „Recognizable“ (standardized)
• Not too expensive
Often only with new physical techniques possible!
114
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Fachgebiet Kellerwirtschaft 115 07.06.2016
VERY EMOTIONAL AND CONTROVERSIAL DISCUSSION ABOUT:
• Tradition
• Sustainability (even for methods of analysis)
• Competition
• Products to fit the market
• Energy efficiency
• CO2- und Water Footprint……………..
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CONSUMER PROTECTION
???? important! But consider circumstances!!!
• „Allergenic“ Fining Materials Is there really a risk?
Demand of declaration ; new products i.e. made from potatoes?
Standardized wine making procedures (EFSA)
• SO2 as Biozid no Alternatives for barrels!
Risk without use of SO2 much higher!
Or no more barrels???
• SO2 in general Discussion about reduction is very dangerous!
116
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CONSUMER DEMAND
• Traceability (existing law !!!!)
Every consumer has the right to get information with what
material the wine has been treated or been in contact with!
• „Transparent“ Wine
• No Residues
• Healthy
• (Traditional)
• Sustainable
• „Recognizable“ (standardized)
• Not too expensive
Often only with new physical techniques possible!
117
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INTERNATIONAL COMPETITION
Wine production increasing while wine consumption decreasing!
New wine producing countries (India, China, Brasil, Thailand…)
Different cost for production
Different laws and regulations in global winemaking
bilateral contracts unfair competition
„New Marketing strategies“:
Organic-wine biodynamic „natural“ „orange“ ???
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INTERNATIONAL HARMONIZATION OF LAWS
„New“ Position of OIV but:
• Stronger international impact caused by principle of
„Consensus“
• Technical Resolutions often blocked by political Limits
This discussion needs to be solved in other „areas“
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CONCLUSION
Many challenges to face but:
1. We can manage to produce our styles of wine but we need
(consumers to agree to) new technical possibilities!
Or
2. The consumer needs to adapt to new wine styles!
(My guess: I think that membran technologies will become very important in the future!)
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Fachgebiet Kellerwirtschaft 121 07.06.2016
WE
HAVE TO MEET
THESE CHALLENGES!
(AND WE WILL !!!!)