FEATURES

Subject to Japanese standards as for QD ingredients: highly rated in terms of safety

IPD performances: • Solubilising (hydrotrope) & humectant properties

• Manufacturing aid : processes of many cosmetic formulations made easier

• Improves sensory profiles of finished products

• Repair effect on damaged hair

IPD can be easily added to cosmetics formulae, even in consistent amounts without inducing instability

… & BENEFITS

Addition of hydrophilic actives in anhydrous systems or lipophilic into aqueous systems made easier Efficient skin moisturiser Enhanced skin feel in toiletries, skin care & make-up Foam & viscosity booster in sodium lauryl ether sulphates (SLES) based systems Binder-aid in compact powders Repairing effect on damaged hair Reduces ethanol content in fragranced formulae

FORMULATING with IPD

Hair and body cleansing formulae Good thickening effects & interesting foam properties

After-shave gel

Reduces sticky feel of the formula

Liquid foundation Increases transparency & natural look without affecting spreadability, shine & massage time

Lipstick Supports a high gliding application, the uniformity

of the trace and the long-lasting shine effect

Eye-shadow Improves shine & resistance to breakage

Toothpaste Replaces PEG-8 leading to an improvement of the

foam & a decrease of the viscosity control without changing the product taste

MISCIBILITY OF IPD*

Asymmetric chemical structure (very hydrophilic & completely lipophilic non-polar site) Fully miscible in water, with some polar fatty esters (adipates, sebacates, ratio 1/1) Not soluble in Caprylic/capric triglyceride, vegetable oils, silicone oils, polydecene

CARRIER & SOLUBILISER*

Good solubiliser of lipophilic actives (e.g. Salicylic acid, resveratrol)

Acts as a carrier of: • hydrophilic actives in anhydrous systems • lipophilic actives in aqueous systems

Solubilises difficult actives such as glycyrrhetinic acid, salicylic acid, resveratrol or Boswellia serrata extracts leading to clear solutions at room temperature

*Studies performed by Dr Luigi Rigano

WETTING & DISPERSION PROPERTIES*

Good wetting properties with FeO2, (ratio 1/1) & with TiO2 (ratio 4/5)

Shows better dispersion properties with silica powders than glycerine or sorbitol

Helps polymers in powder form to swell more rapidly in water (pre-gel), e.g. Xanthan Gum, cellulose gum, Aristoflex® AVC at room temperature

Improves clarity of aqueous gels made of these polymers with no variation of viscosity (except with hexyl ethyl cellulose at 1% where viscosity is boosted)

COMPATIBILITY with SURFACTANTS SYSTEMS*

When used @ 1-1.5%, viscosity of SLES system is boosted, foam & stability are increased

In mild surfactant systems, optimum value of IPD is 2%

Improved skin feel with more emollience vs. reference

*Studies performed by Dr Luigi Rigano

COMPATIBILITY in O/W EMULSIONS*

Combining IPD & waxy emulsifiers leads to pasty/viscous blends that are easier to use (energy saving)

STABILITY & PARTICLE SIZE*

When used @ 5% in the water phase, oil droplets are finer compared to the same formula without IPD

(anti ageing cream)

O/W emulsion

*Studies performed by Dr Luigi Rigano

SKIN CARE*

A O/W emulsion with 5% IPD shows an immediate hydrating effect

Synergistic association with sorbitol (5%) lengthens the effect up to 2 hours

Better results vs. traditional moisturizer Na hyaluronate (0.5%)

Study protocol:

5 volunteers – application on forearm – average value after 10 measurements made by corneometer

Active 0 or x %

Ultrez 10 (carbomer) 0.15%

Lanette 16 (cetyl alcohol) 1%

Cithrol GMS (Glyceryl stearate/PEG 100

stearate)

3%

Parrafin oil AAB2 (Paraffinum liquidum) 3%

TEA 0.6%

Germaben II (PG, diazolinidyl urea, methyl-,

propyl parabens) 0.7%

Deionised water Bal. to 100%

*Studies performed by IRFAQ France

MOISTURISING EFFECT ON SKIN*

Active 0 or x %

Ultrez 10 (carbomer) 0.15%

Lanette 16 (cetyl alcohol) 1%

Cithrol GMS (Glyceryl stearate/PEG 100

stearate)

3%

Parrafin oil AAB2 (Paraffinum liquidum) 3%

TEA 0.6%

Germaben II (PG, diazolinidyl urea, methyl-,

propyl parabens) 0.7%

Deionised water Bal. to 100%

*Studies performed by IRFAQ France

HAIR CARE*

IPD provides repairing effects on damaged hair and satisfactory sensorial results in oil-based hair cleansers

Effect on damaged hair:

synergistic effect observed with sorbitol (ratio 1:1) in damaged hair treatment (aspect improved)

Treatment with IPD & sorbitol (5%/5%) improves the smoothness of damaged hair vs.;

• IPD alone

• hydrolyzed proteins

• addition of glycols to sorbitol

Smoothness effect is evaluated as hair sliding by drop height (ring test) & coefficient of static friction (sliding angle test)

*Studies performed by IRFAQ France

HAIR CARE*

Static friction: IPD & sorbitol protect hair shafts by closing cuticles

*Studies performed by IRFAQ France Caucasian hair locks supplied by Secher Fesnoux

IPD Isopentyl diol

DPG Dipropylene

glycol

BG Butylene

glycol

PG Propylene

glycol

HAIR CARE*

Ring test: IPD & sorbitol protect hair shafts by closing cuticles

0

5

10

15

IPD Isopentyl diol

DPG Dipropylene

glycol

BG Butylene

glycol

PG Propylene

glycol

*Studies performed by IRFAQ France Caucasian hair locks supplied by Secher Fesnoux

HAIR CARE*

Repair effect clearly visible by SEM

Untreated damaged hair

Dipped for 30 minutes in a IPD/sorbitol solution

(5% each)

Shampoos: IPD has a good influence on the foam of cleansing systems & improves hair shine of oil-containing formulae Oil based shampoos containing IPD lead to better combing and softer feel on hair

*Studies performed by IRFAQ France

MAKE-UP*

IPD improves the sensorial performances of make-up products, without affecting their stability

COMPACT POWDERS: use level 3-5% powders; 5-10% eye-shadows

IPD allows to reduce the amount of binders (direct addition to the powders)

IPD improves drop test challenge

IPD improves shine and pick-up when added @ 5-6%

LIPSTICK: use level 2-3%

IPD improves performances of lipsticks: soft feel, sliding, shine, trace)

IPD does not affect drop point (below 5%)

CAST FOUNDATIONS: use level in poured products: 5-10%

IPD improves the casting phase of too viscous foundations heated @ 80-85°C

IPD thus improves the skin application performances: pick-up, spreading, sliding

*Studies performed by Dr Luigi Rigano

MAKE-UP Remover*

Evaluation & scoring by volunteers of 5 make-up remover solutions with 10% of various diols

Pads impregnated with 1g of solution were applied 10 times to remove foundation & lipstick

Make up remover based on IPD showed excellent performance at removing lipstick while leaving nice skin after feel

*Studies performed by IRFAQ France

MAKE-UP Remover* Excellent performance, good feeling

*Studies performed by IRFAQ France

Performance as makeup remover:

Foundation 5 5 8 3 5

Lipstick 8 6 7 7 7

Skin freshness 7 5 6 6 5

Absence of stickiness 8 8 8 6 7

Appearance of the skin after makeup removal 8 8 8 8 8

Skin softness after makeup removal 8 8 8 7 7

Absence of tight feeling after makeup removal 8 8 8 8 8

1 = poor 8 = good

10% Isopentyl-diol

10% Propylene-glycol

10% Hexylene-glycol

10% Butylene-glycol

10% Dipropy-leneglycol

ALCOHOLIC PERFUMERY*

Perfect miscibility with many fragrances & aromas (1/1)

Adding 10% of IPD to a hydro-alcoholic solution containing 1% perfume maintains transparency and reduces alcohol level (from 30 to 20%)

Preparation of milder body perfumes with a lower amount of alcohol and with no sticky skin feel is now possible

ORAL CARE*

IPD is suitable for use in standard & transparent toothpastes Easier introduction of aroma during manufacture (ratio 1/1) Better dispersion & quicker swelling of silica powders Improves foam quality Suggested amount in toothpastes: 5-10%

*Studies performed by Dr Luigi Rigano

Phase Trade Name INCI Name (EU) %w/w

A DEMIN. WATER AQUA 82.95

NATRLQUEST E30 AQUA (and) TRISODIUM ETHYLENDIAMINE DISUCCINATE

0.30

INOSITOL INOSITOL 1.00

ALLANTOIN ALLANTOIN 0.10

GERMALL II DIAZOLIDINYL UREA 0.25

A1 CARBOPOL ULTREZ 10 CARBOMER 0.55

B GLYCERIN GLYCERIN 2.50

PHENOXYETANOL PHENOXYETANOL 0.80

C ISOPENTYLDIOL ISOPENTYLDIOL 5.00

BOSWELLIA SERRATA EXTRACT BOSWELLIA SERRATA EXTRACT 0.10

GLABRIDRIN GLABRIDRIN 0.05

D HYDROVANCE HYDROXYETHYL UREA 2.00

E SODIUM HYDROXIDE (SOL.10%) SODIUM HYDROXIDE (and) AQUA 1.40

F BLUE PATENT (SOL. 0,2%) CI 42051 (and) AQUA 0.40

YELLOW N°9 (SOL.0,5%) CI 19140 (and) AQUA 0.20

G ALCOHOL DENAT. ALCOHOL DENAT. 2.00

FRAGRANCE PARFUM 0.20

SOLUBILISANT LRI PPG-26-BUTETH-26 (and) PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL

0.20

100.00

AFTER-SHAVE GEL*

Appearance: green gel Production method: add in sequence the ingredients of phase A, while stirring until complete solution of ingredients. Add A1 homogenizing and stirring until complete dispersion of polymer. Add slowly in sequence phase B (pre-mixed), phase C (pre-mixed), D, E, phase F (pre-mixed) and phase G (pre-mixed) while stirring after each addition until complete homogeneity is obtained. Cool to room temperature, if necessary.

Benefits: incorporation of lipophilic active in cream gel; no tacky skin feel

*Formulation developed by Dr Luigi Rigano

Phase Trade Name INCI Name (EU) %w/w

A PROLIX RB POLYGLYCERIL-3 RICE BRANATE 5.00

LANETTE O CETEARYL ALCOHOL 0.50

CETIOL OE DICAPRYLYL ETHER 3.00

MYRITOL 318 CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 4.00

JOJOBA OIL SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS SEED OIL 1.50

TEGIN M GLYCERYL STEARATE 1.00

B DEMIN. WATER AQUA 20.25

XANTHAN GUM 80 MESH XANTHAN GUM 0.10

B1 ISOPENTYLDIOL ISOPENTYLDIOL 4.00

DEMIN. WATER AQUA 53.00

GLABRIDRIN GLABRIDRIN 0.05

NATRLQUEST E 30 AQUA (and) TRISODIUM ETHYLENDIAMINE DISUCCINATE

2.00

TREHALOSE 100 TREHALOSE 1.50

NATURAL EXTRACT AP BETAINE 1.50

C SF 1202 CYCLOPENTASILOXANE 3.00

D GERMABEN II PROPYLENE GLYCOL (and) DIAZOLIDINYL UREA (and) METHYLPARABEN (and) PROPYLPARABEN

1.00

E FRAGRANCE PARFUM 0.20

100.00

Appearance: white cream Production method: Preliminary action: add Xanthan gum to water (phase B) homogenizing and stirring for about 5 minutes, then heat at 75°C homogenizing until complete dispersion and swelling of polymer Method: melt ingredients A at 75°C while mixing. Add phase B to phase A homogenizing and stirring for about 10 minutes. Add slowly B1 (pre-mixed) homogenizing and stirring. If necessary, cool to 40°C and add in sequence C, D and E, homogenizing and stirring until homogeneity is obtained. Cool to room temperature while stirring.

Benefits: incorporation of difficult active in aqueous phase

ANTI-AGE CREAM*

*Formulation developed by Dr Luigi Rigano

EYE SHADOW*

Phase Trade Name INCI Name (EU) %w/w

A MAGNESIUM STEARATE MAGNESIUM STEARATE 3.00

AEROSIL 200 SILICA 2.00

TALCO MICRON 10 DEC TALC 30.00

TRE'S BN COSMETIC POWDER PUHP 1108

BORON NITRIDE 5.00

B TIMIRON STARLASTER MP 115 MICA (and) CI 77891 27.50

MICA BLACK CI 77499 (and) MICA (and)

CI 77891 17.50

C CERAPHYL 375 ISOSTEARYL NEOPENTANOATE 6.70

WITCOTACK 145 CERA MICROCRISTALLINA 1.50

PHENOXYETHANOL PHENOXYETHANOL 0.80

D ISOPENTYLDIOL ISOPENTYLDIOL 6.00

100.00

Appearance: pearled powder, silver grey Production method: Preliminary action: melt ingredients C at 70-75°C while mixing. Method: mill ingredients A until complete micronization of powders in an appropriate equipment. Add ingredients B and mix until complete homogeneity of powders. Add in sequence phase C and D until complete homogeneity of product. Sift once and repeat a second time before pressing.

Benefits: good compatibility with high level of talc; IPD is used as a binding-aid & improves breakage resistance

*Formulation developed by Dr Luigi Rigano

Appearance: beige powder Production method: Preliminary action: melt ingredients C at 70-75°C while mixing. Add C1 just before the introduction in the main container and stir. Method: mill the ingredients A until complete micronization of powders and homogeneity of colour. Add in sequence ingredients B milling after each addition until complete homogeneity of powders. Add in sequence phase (C+C1) and D milling until complete homogeneity of product. Sift once and repeat a second time before pressing.

Phase Trade Name INCI Name (EU) %w/w

A UNIPURE YELLOW LC 182 CI 77492 2.00

UNIPURE RED LC 381 CI 77491 0.30

UNIPURE BROWN LC 889 CI 77491 (and) CI 77499 0.50

UNIPURE BLACK LC 989 CI 77499 0.20

UNIPURE WHITE LC 981 CI 77891 13.00

B TALCO 10 DEC TALC 17.50

SERICITE DNN MICA 50.00

MAGNESIUM STEARATE MAGNESIUM STEARATE 2.00

C DERMOFEEL BGC BUTYLENE GLYCOL DICAPRYLATE/DICAPRATE

2.00

PHENOXYETHANOL PHENOXYETHANOL 0.80

BEESWAX CERA ALBA 0.50

C1 FRAGRANCE PARFUM 0.20

D ISOPENTYLDIOL ISOPENTYLDIOL 5.00

100.00

Benefits: good compatibility with high level of Mica; IPD is used as a binding-aid & improves breakage resistance

COMPACT FACE POWDER*

*Formulation developed by Dr Luigi Rigano

LIPSTICK*

Appearance: solid, red colour Drop point: 66°C Production method: add in sequence the ingredients of phase A, while stirring until complete homogeneity of colour is obtained. Heat at 80°C. Melt phase B at 90-95°C until the Polyethylene is completely dissolved. Melt phase C at 80°C while stirring. Add in sequence phase B to phase A, and then phase C to phase A + B, while stirring until complete homogeneity is obtained. Add in sequence phase D (pre-mixed) and E while stirring until complete homogeneity is obtained. At 75-80°C pour into mould.

Phase Trade Name INCI Name (EU) %w/w

A CASTOR OIL RICINUS COMMUNIS OIL 25.90

HOMBITAN (disp 40%) CI 77891, RICINUS COMMUNIS OIL 10.00

A 406 TUDOR MAHOGANY (disp 40%) CI 77491, RICINUS COMMUNIS OIL 7.50

D&C RED 7 CALC LAKE W 005 (disp 30%) CI 15850, RICINUS COMMUNIS OIL 3.30

COSMOLL 222 DIISOSTEARYL MALATE 15.00

BHT BHT 0.1

PERFORMALENE 500 POLYETHYLENE 50.00

FANCOL VB

LIMNANTHES ALBA SEED OIL (and) BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER

EXTRACT

2.00

B COSMOLL 222 DIISOSTEARYL MALATE 2.00

PHENOXYETHANOL PHENOXYETHANOL 0.80

BEESWAX WHITE CERA ALBA 5.00

C CANDELILLA WAX CANDELILLA CERA 6.50

OZOKERITE T 319 OZOKERITE 5.00

SUPERSTEROL ESTER C10-30 CHOLESTEROL /

LANOSTEROL ESTERS 6.50

D TOCOPHERYL ACETATE TOCOPHERYL ACETATE 1.00

FRAGRANCE PARFUM 0.20

E ISOPENTYLDIOL ISOPENTYLDIOL 2.50

100.00

Benefits: IPD provides improves gliding, uniformity of trace, long lasting shine

*Formulation developed by Dr Luigi Rigano

Appearance: white paste

Production method: Preliminary actions: Mix the ingredients of phase C homogenizing until complete dispersion of powder. Mix the ingredients of phase E heating at 60-65°C until complete dissolution of powder. Method: Add in sequence the ingredients of phase A while stirring until complete dissolution of powders. Add A1 homogenizing and stirring until complete dispersion and swelling of polymer. Add B while homogenizing until complete dispersion of powder. Add C while homogenizing until complete dispersion and homogeneity of white colour. Add in sequence the ingredients of phase D while homogenizing after each addition until complete dispersion of each powder. Add in sequence phase E and F homogenizing after each addition until complete homogeneity.

NB: the product must be prepared under maximum vacuum.

Phase Trade Name INCI Name (EU) %w/w

A DEMIN. WATER AQUA 32.69

SODIUM SACCHARIN SODIUM SACCHARIN 0.25

SODIUM MONOFLUOROPHOSPHATE SODIUM MONOFLUOROPHOSPHATE 0.76

SORBITOL (Sol. 70%) SORBITOL (and) AQUA 28.00

ISOPENTYLDIOL ISOPENTYLDIOL 4.00

A1 VISCARIN PC 389 CHONDRUS CRISPUS EXTRACT 0.50

B DICALCIUM PHOSPHATE DICALCIUM PHOSPHATE 3.00

C DEMIN. WATER AQUA 3.00

A310 TUDOR ASPEN TITANIUM DIOXIDE 1.00

D TIXOSIL 73 HYDRATED SILICA 8.00

TIXOSIL 43 HYDRATED SILICA 10.00

AEROSIL 200 SILICA 2.00

E DEMIN. WATER AQUA 4.00

EMPICOL LZV SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE 1.40

F IRGASAN DP 300 TRICLOSAN 0.20

AROMA AROMA 1.20

100.00

Benefits: IPD replaces PEG-8, helps & improves foam without affecting taste

TOOTH PASTE*

*Formulation developed by Dr Luigi Rigano

Kuraray Co., Ltd. Fine Chemicals Marketing and Sales Department Tokyo Head office Ote Center Building, 1-1-3, Otemachi Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo, 100-8115 Japan Phone + 81-3-6701-1621 Telefax + 81-3-6701-1646 www.kuraray.co.jp/en/ Kuraray Europe GmbH Philipp-Reis-Str. 4 65795 Hattersheim / Germany Contacts: chemicals@kuraray.eu Phone + 49 69 305 358 44 Phone + 33 1 56 45 12 53 www.kuraray.eu

Kuraray America, Inc. 2625 Bay Area Boulevard, Suite 300 Houston, Texas 77058-1551 USA Phone + 1-713-4957325 Telefax +1-713-7322 www.kuraray.us.com