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Kroot Kavalry
Kroot Hounds
Krootox
Knarlocs
Kroot
Tutorials
Disclaimer: Please note that this compilation was originally made for personal
use, and as such it only includes those ideas that were deemed krootish
enough by the author. There are plenty of conversions that aren't included here
that might suit your tastes better, such as the kroot-tyranid hounds for example.
Disclaimer 2: All of the images, quotes and information here included are
available freely on the Internet, and it was therefore assumed that the authors
did not mind sharing them with the world. However, should you be one of the
people whose work is shown here and desire to have it changed/removed, you
can contact me and it will be done ASAP. Also, the more detailed and unquoted
explanations have been extracted from old Kompletely Kroot codexes.
Disclaimer 3: The author is not an English native speaker, so you can expect
the an odd sentence every now and then. If so, do tell, so that this Kompilation
can be improved.
Kroot Kavalry
-Turbo MMX's Dal'yth Rangers:
The Mounted Lesser Great Knaroc's
(Or Knarl "ox") with Twin linked Kroot
Guns
"Just a quick explanation first. These
are meant to represent the Great
knarloc models. After Reading the
rules and looking at the models for
the great Knarloc I really didn't think
the rules did the model proper
justice. So I picked up some of the
smaller ones. Added the extra gun
carage and rider to the back and have
used these as my Great Knarlocs for
my army. In my mind the fit the rules
better. And if WYSIWYG comes into it,
they are still on the same size base as
a great knarloc and actually stand
about half an Inch taller than a great
knarloc. And so far no one has had a
problem."
Games Workshop Cold One:
The newer and very old ones are more reptilian, whereas those from 5th-6th edition
usually have the most avian features.
Quareni's: He/she got rid of the front legs (other people kept them), and attached a
Krootox head. A lighter could be used to heat and then bend the legs of the rider
downwards.
-Oaka's
version,
keeping the
front legs.
Turbo MMX's:
"I changed out the rail rifle for a Kroot ox Kroot gun. The Positional
Relay is a bash of a Guard vox caster as well as some other parts
that should be fairly easy to pick out." This rider was later given a
knarloc to ride, replacing the cold one.
UberKroot's Mounted Rocket Kindred:
1. Take one Cold One and add a Krootox head (Andy’s original Knarloc’s had their front legs
sawnoff and replaced with sculpted green stuff – though I prefer the simple method of leaving
them on).I ground down the back of the Krootox’s head and made a string ‘collar’ for all my
Knarlocs, whichhides the seam quite well.
2. Assemble the launcher support from the Ork Rokkit Buggy (Left Support, Right Support,
MainSupport & Pintle).
3. Put the rocket Launcher on the stand backwards.
4. Strap the Launcher to the back of the Knarloc, use string to make it look as if it’s been lashed
on (Iused three Kroot Gun Straps from the fantastic plastic Kroot extras).
5. Assemble a
normal Kroot
Warrior to act
as the Gunner
for the Rocket
Team (I gave
my
gunnersRokkits
040301409 on
their backs).
Mount him on
the same large
round base as
the Knarloc.
Gamezone Dark Elf Dark Knight on Predator:
12 pounds each. http://www.gamezoneminiatures.com/tienda/en/dark-elves/302-caja-
de-caballeros-en-predador.html
Zombiesmith Quars:
10$ each. http://www.zombiesmith.com/collections/quar-cavalry/
Warmachine Deathripper Bonejack by Thorisian:
4.90€. http://www.cadwallon.com/warmachine-hordes/cryx/deathripper-bonejacks-
2.html
Games Workshop Old Daemonette Steeds by Iron Mammoth:
"I cut the daemonettes off of their steeds, then cut the heads off of the steeds. I
replaced their heads with Kroot Hound heads (which turned out to be a perfect size for
the steeds) and also added the Kroot Hounds “Dreadlocks” onto the steeds necks. To
hide the area where I removed the daemonettes I built up a quilted saddle and then
mounted the Kroot rider on top."
Games Workshop Kroot Hounds by Serpine:
"The lower body is a kroot hound with the head and large spines sawed off, the scope
is an antennae from Battlefleet Gothic, and the rest is from the kroot sprue.
Basically I started by sawing off the spine crest along the back using deep cuts on the
two sides, then cutting from the rear. Keeping things just above the head-height of the
hound minimized damage to the rear tiny spines and the bag/harness sort of stuff on
the hound torso. Then I hacked off the head using the dog collar hounds have as a
guide. Once again this consisted of cutting the sides first, and then cutting from the
bottom along the collar. This takes some patience (I snapped a saw blade going
through neck #3 to fast). Then a decent cutting tool to snip off the slot tab (since these
go on the non-slotted bases) and they are ready for flash cleaning and a kroot torso to
be stuck near the front of the flat section left behind by the spine removal.
This might have been somewhat easier/quicker to do with some good pliers and a bit of
filing, but I wanted to minimize damage to the spines and heads for use in later
conversions. The saw gave me much better precision.
Three of the four styles of hound bodies are perfect for this process, but the fourth style
has a paw running along and partially attached to the chin. Keep an eye out for these
when grabbing blisters, since these "renegade" hounds would be annoying to modify."
Kroot Hounds
Chaos Warhounds: 15.50 Pounds for 10.
http://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Chaos-Warhounds
Carrelio: "They are very
easy to fit on to small round
bases thanks to their
dynamic leg poses. Just
greenstuff on a bit of a
dinosaur tail, and cover up
the spot where the horns
go to make it look like fur
(again using greenstuff)"
-Warlord Imp's conversion: "I used green stuff to add "beaks" and fill in the holes
which were meant for horns."
Games Workshop Wild Wargs:
Stoopicus: "Snipping the tail and adding some ganglia and maybe some green stuff in
the jaw area would go a long way."
Games Workshop Crypt Ghouls: 15.50 Pounds for 10.
http://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Vampire-Counts-Crypt-Ghouls
-Lord Shaper's:
-Blambi's:
Hasslefree Miniatures Lesser Mawes: 6.70 Pounds for 4.
http://www.hfminis.co.uk/shop?product=lesser-mawes-
x4~hfsa310&category=miniatures~sci%252dfi-aliens
Hasslefree Miniatures Mawes: 16.70 Pounds for 3.
http://www.hfminis.co.uk/shop?product=mawe-
multi~hfsa309&category=miniatures~sci%252dfi-aliens
Both the small and big mawes
could be added an underbiting
if needed, to give them a
krootier appearance. Inserting
quills should also deliver a nice
result.
Oaka's Razorwing Flock:
" It's a Dark Elf War Hyrda
from the Warmaster range,
with some quills and
baggage items added over a
greenstuff harness that is
difficult to see in the images.
The rest of the green stuff is
just to fill in the horribly
molded metal figure. I chose
to use this model because it
has 5 heads to represent the
5 attacks and 5 wounds of
the Razorwing Flock, which
all look amazingly similar to
a Kroot Hound head. In fact,
I'm attempting to make this
model look just like an
evolutionary parallel to the
Kroot Hound."
Krootox
Games Workshop Sentinel: 18.50 Pounds
http://www.games-workshop.com/en-
GB/Imperial-Guard-Sentinel
-GreyDeath's:
-Botox Biker's:
Shipped from Estonia, found on Ebay Russia, seems to be of good quality. The seller
went by the name of irina_est and sold them for about 35$. As of March 2014, the
account hasn't been active in over a year.
Great Knarlocs
Turbo MMX's Baggage Knarloc: Ork Claw replacing the right arm (was a regular
Great Knarloc).
Tankworks' Mega-knarloc:
"I have 'lumped-up' the
beast's hide in some
places and have to add a
few more pin feathers.
The crew are
detachable, the 'goad'
just sits astride the
beasts neck and the
gunner and auto-cannon
are one unit held by the
cannon mount. The
'rifleman' has a
magnetized base.
Theorecticaly they
would become infantry
if the beast were killed."
Greydeath's Kroot Dragon:
Adding quills behind the head and along the back should krootify it even further.
Kroot
Turbo MMX's Dal'yth Rangers: 2 ork Chainswords stuck end to end (you remove the tip
off one and the engine from another). A Tau flamer with the end cut off for the base. And then
just the extra kroot hand holds as you need them for the grips.
Typhoid_Garry's Shaper:
"The fur on the cloak will be worked to look
like feathers, and the feathers in his
headdress will be more pointed when done.
I'm considering swapping his weapon, but I
really like Kroot Rifles. You can see where I
cut a section out of the Chaos Warrior cloak
and fit the two pieces back together so that
his shoulders weren't huge."
"A new master shaper with a Power Klaw, using it as an
Eviscerator. The jacket is green stuff and plastic card."
Braggie's Shaper:
Jaxx23's Shaper:
"I gave them
dreadlocks to show
age and stature.
Their saches on their
left side was made
from greenstuff. For
those who dont
know, the spears
(used as Power
Weapons) are
actually spare bits
from the new
Marauder Horsemen
box. No clipping
required just straight
off the sprue."
Oaka's: Big Mek with Power Klaw and
Kustom Force Field counts-as (WIP).
Mr Pink's Tyranid Hunter:
The plasticard spacers were
placed there to beef him up.
The copper wiring intends to
make it look like all the tyranid
plates were just tied in a
rudimentary way.
Turbo MMX's Master Shaper Krep Lack Abbadack: Power sword, Flamer, Melta
bombs
Fattdex's Ork-Hybrid Aboriginal-Themed Kroot: Power Klaw count as Eviscerator.
Uber Kroot's Master Shaper: The base for this conversion is a Dark Emissary from
WHFB Albion campaign plus two kroot
heads and one foot
1. Cut off the head quills of one of the Kroot
heads and add it to the other head. You
may have to cut the quills off both heads
and use a bit of green stuff to generate the
right effect.
2. Trim the collar off the Dark Emissary and
then add the massive quilled head.
3. Chop off the protruding foot and replace
with a suitable Kroot foot.
4. Add a few Kroot daggers and pouches to
cover up anything too fantasy for your
liking.
UberKroot's Feral Kroot:
1. Get an
oop Strigoi
Vampire
body and
mount it on a
round base
(small –
these are not
Cavalry
Models!).
2. Fit on a
Kroot head,
and carefully
cut off the
lower quills.
Oaka's Reborn Kindred:
Killercroc's Master Shaper Satanas Ipinanganak: the body is a bloodletter's.
Serpine's Kroger (Kroot that ate Ogryns):
The gutplate
was removed and the finger
count, krootified. Feet were
cut off (perhaps modifying
them would be better?)
Adding more quills might be
a good idea, and a small tail,
like all things kroot.
Privateer Press Trollkin Scattergunners:
Would have to krootify them, perhaps some greenstuff+filing could give them a beak,
or just replace the head altogether with a kroot one. Downsizing the boots and filing
down the knee pads should do away with the cartoony look, or maybe everything from
the knee down should be replaced by a kroot leg.
Jaxx23's Hunters:
The scopes are hand made (10-15min per)
and the backpacks are from FW's Cadian
upgrade kit.
Turbo MMX's Hunters: targets from the Ork Boyz kit.
Jaxx23's Winged Master Shaper: GW's Chaos Possessed backpack wings.
Jaxx23's Vultures: Chaos Furies wings, just pin in and glue on. 18.50 Pounds for 5.
UnderBheit's Vultures: using HeroClix Hawkman wing, from
DC Heroclix set called "Hypertime"
"I shave down the under-bite till everything is flat.
Then I carve the contour of the beak into the plastic.
Now you can start abrading the plastic where the
underjaw will be so that the under-bite becomes an
over-bite. And to get the tip of the beak you have to
cut off a little bit of the underjaw.
First I tried to do it with green stuff, but this is more
difficult and doesn´t look good. "
O´Shovah's Vultures: with GW's harpy/chaos fury wings.
Mall3us' Kroot Inquisitor head: Oaka's Pain tokens: for playing
Dark Eldar counts-as.
Oaka's Kroot Webway Portal:
"The Games Workshop Woods set is a great buy if you need three portals and missed out on the limited time only portals that were available when the [DE] codex first came out. It is quite easy to make the portal thanks to the design of the kit, because one side of the lower trunk is a separate piece. Simply don't glue that piece in, and green stuff a portal in the space that is available."
Jaxx23's Dreadlock Tutorial
At first you will get frustrated because its ALOT of delicate work but be sure with
patience and a little time the dreads will just keep getting better, but remember, trial
and error is always a good thing.
The first step is to cut off the quills flush at the back of the head. Then start by pinning
your kroot body just to have some sort of structural hardpoint to manipulate your model
without having to touch it. You can also build him up on his base but I recommend to
not add the arms JUST yet.
Now add some holes in the back of the head so that
a few dreadlocks have something to cling on for
support. The rest of the dreads will either be
blending onto the head or bonded with the other
dreads.
Start by rolling up some greenstuff, but not too
much. The dreadlocks require little greenstuff so
avoid over usage. Here is a size of greenstuff you
could use. No bigger than the kroot's head.
Take little chucks out of that ball
of greenstuff and make little ones
as you see in the picture below.
That size ball can make upto 3
smaller balls to make 3 dreads.
Roll them up like little sausages but
thin them out only at one end. The
other side needs to be thicker to
apply at the base of the head. The
first dread should be placed directly
into the bottom hole. Think of it as
a main beam on your foundation of
your project. Use your needle to
push the greenstuff into the hole.
After use the other side of the
needle (the eye) and smeared the
excess onto the head.
After vary the size and length of the dreads to give it that natural,
primitive "I don't take care of my hair" look. Work your way bottom to
top and just add more.
Depending on the movement of your kroot, you can always make the
dreads wave out in different directions like so. Also you can always
bring a few dreads up to the front of the body.
Once your done, let the kroot on the pin vice and let stand to dry for a few hours to
make sure the greenstuff has cured. I usually let it stand over night. With multiple pins
you can always make a few kroots at a time with the same batch of greenstuff.
Resources
http://fenrisgames.com/shop For stuff like barrels.