Korea

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Simon Richmond, Megan Eaves, Trent Holden,

Rebecca Milner, Phillip Tang, Rob Whyte

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North Koreap306

Gangwon-dop119

Jeju-dop231

Jeollanam-dop208

Busan &Gyeongsangnam-do

p182

Gyeongsangbuk-dop147Jeollabuk-do

p263

Chungcheongnam-dop276

Chungcheongbuk-dop293

Seoulp38

Around Seoulp94

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to Korea . . . . . . 4

Korea Map . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Korea’s Top 13 . . . . . . . . . . .8

Need to Know . . . . . . . . . .16

First Time Korea . . . . . . . .18

If You Like… . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Month by Month . . . . . . . 23

Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Outdoor Activities . . . . . 29

Regions at a Glance . . . . 34

SEOUL . . . . . . . . . . . . 38

AROUND SEOUL . . . . 94Gyeonggi-do . . . . . . . . . . 95The Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) & Joint Security Area (JSA) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95Heyri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98Suwon & Around . . . . . . . 101Anyang Art Park . . . . . . . . 104Donggureung . . . . . . . . . . 104Namhansanseong . . . . . . 104Icheon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105Incheon- gwangyeok-si . . . . . . . . 106Incheon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107Yeongjongdo . . . . . . . . . . . 112Muuido . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112West Sea Islands . . . . . . . 115Ganghwado . . . . . . . . . . . . 116

GANGWON-DO . . . . .119Chuncheon . . . . . . . . . . . . 121Samak-san . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125Sokcho . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125Seoraksan National Park . . . . . . . . . . 129Gangneung . . . . . . . . . . . . 134Pyeongchang . . . . . . . . . . 139Gohan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141Odaesan National Park . . . . . . . . . . 142Samcheok . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143Wonju . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145Chiaksan National Park . . . . . . . . . . 145

GYEONGSANGBUK- DO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .147Daegu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148Gyeongju . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158Pohang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169

Ulleungdo . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172Andong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176Hahoe Folk Village . . . . . . 179Cheongnyangsan Provincial Park . . . . . . . . . 180Juwangsan National Park . . . . . . . . . . 180

BUSAN & GYEONGSANGNAM- DO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182Busan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185Gajisan Provincial Park . . . . . . . . . 197Geojedo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198Tongyeong . . . . . . . . . . . . .200Jinju . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201Namhaedo . . . . . . . . . . . . .204Jirisan National Park – East . . . .206

JEOLLANAM-DO . . . 208Gwangju . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .209Damyang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215Unju-sa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216Gurye . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216Suncheon & Around . . . . 217Yeosu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218Boseong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221Gangjin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222Haenam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222Wando . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223Mokpo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225Dadohae Haesang National Park . . . . . . . . . . 229

JEJU-DO . . . . . . . . . . 231Jeju-si . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233Eastern Jeju-do . . . . . . . 241Gimnyeong Beach . . . . . . 241Manjang-gul . . . . . . . . . . . 242Woljeong Beach . . . . . . . . 243

PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

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Contents

Sehwa-ri & Hado-ri . . . . . 243Seongsan-ri & Sinyang-ri . . . . . . . . . . . 244Seongeup Folk Village . . . . . . . . . . . . 247Southern Jeju-do . . . . . 249Seogwipo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249Jungmun Resort & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254Sagye-ri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256Central Jeju . . . . . . . . . . 257Hallasan National Park . . . . . . . . . . 257Sangumburi . . . . . . . . . . .260Western Jeju-do . . . . . . 260Moseulpo . . . . . . . . . . . . . .260Inland Region . . . . . . . . . . 261Hallim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262

JEOLLABUK-DO . . . 263Jeonju . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .264Naejangsan National Park . . . . . . . . . . 269Muju & Deogyusan National Park . . . . . . . . . . 270Gochang & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272Byeonsan-bando National Park . . . . . . . . . . 273Gunsan & Seonyudo . . . . . . . . . . . . 274

CHUNGCHEONGNAM-DO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276Daejeon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 277Gyeryongsan National Park . . . . . . . . . . 282Gongju . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283Magok-sa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285Buyeo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .286Boryeong & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 289Sapsido . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .290

Taean-haean National Marine Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 291

CHUNGCHEONGBUK-DO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293Cheongju . . . . . . . . . . . . . .294Songnisan National Park . . . . . . . . . .298Chungju . . . . . . . . . . . . . .299

NORTH KOREA . . . . 306Pyongyang . . . . . . . . . . . 308Kaesong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 319Panmunjom & the DMZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .320Myohyangsan . . . . . . . . . . 321Hamhung . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322Wonsan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322Kumgangsan . . . . . . . . . . . 323Nampo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323Sinchon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324Paekdusan . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324Chilbosan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325Chongjin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 326Rajin-Sonbong . . . . . . . . . 326Understand North Korea . . . . . . . . . . 327Survival Guide . . . . . . . . 335

Korea Today . . . . . . . . . . 340

History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 343

The Korean People . . . . 363

In the Korean Kitchen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 367

Arts & Architecture . . . . . . . . . .377

The Natural Environment . . . . . . . . . 382

Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 388

Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 397

Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 402

Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 410

Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 422

UNDERSTAND

SURVIVAL GUIDE

SPECIAL FEATURES

Outdoor Activities . . . . . . . . . . . 29

The Korean People . . . . . . . . . . . . 363

In the Korean Kitchen . . . . . . . . . . . .367

Arts & Architecture . . . . . . . .377

The Natural Environment . . . . . . . 382

Itineraries

JAPAN

NORTHKOREA

CHINASeoul

ChuncheonSokcho

SeoraksanNational Park

GangneungJeongdongjin

SamcheokHwanseongul &Daegeumgul Haesindang

Park

Hahoe FolkVillage

GyeongjuSeokguram

Busan

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South Korea’s Highlights

Access the best of Korea on this trip taking in the dynamic capital Seoul, the southern port of Busan, lost-in-time country towns, quirky sights and beautiful Jeju-do.

Spend four or five days in Seoul, including a day trip north to the DMZ. Next head east to Chuncheon, where you can cycle around Uiam Lake and sample the town’s fa-mous chicken dish, dakgalbi.

Dine on fresh seafood in Sokcho then hike around the stunning peaks and waterfalls of Seoraksan National Park. Follow the coast south to Gangneung to view well-preserved Joseon-era buildings, quirky museums and a tiny North Korean spy submarine at Unification Park in Jeongdongjin. From Samcheok explore the huge Hwanseongul and Daegeumgul caves, as well as Haesindang Park, packed with phallic sculptures.

Delve into Korea’s past at serene Hahoe Folk Village and Gyeongju, ancient capital of the Shilla kingdom, where you can spend a couple of days exploring royal tombs, the excellent museum and the World Heritage–listed grotto at Seokguram.

Busan, with its fish market, beaches and urban buzz, is worth a few days. From here fly to Jeju-do, where you can enjoy amazing volcanic scenery on leisurely hikes.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

2 WEEKS

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This cross-country itinerary is ideal for those looking to experience the more rustic and natural side of South Korea, with stops on ruggedly beautiful islands and hikes along leafy mountain trails.

From Incheon International Airport it’s a quick hop to the small, idyllic island of Muuido, from where you can walk to So-Muuido or relax on lovely beaches. Enjoy Chinese food in the historic Chinatown of Incheon, then stroll around the Open Port area. Take a direct bus to Suwon, where you can stride around the ramparts of the me-ticulously reconstructed fortress wall.

Gongju and Buyeo, the ancient capitals of the Baekje kingdom, are your next stops – hillside tombs, a fortress and museum will give you an insight into Korea’s oldest dy-nasty. After enjoying the sand, seafood and mud skincare spa of Daecheon Beach, sail to the serene island of Sapsido, where you can spend the night. Return to Daecheon and continue north by bus to Anmyeondo, the largest island in the Taean Haean National Marine Park. Continue working on your tan at either Khotji Beach or Mallipo Beach, or hike some the new Haebyeongil trails through the park.

Travel inland to Daejeon to soak at Yuseong Hot Springs. Continue to Cheongju, learn about the world’s oldest printed book then move on to Songnisan National Park, covering central Korea’s finest scenic area and home to a 33m-tall gold-plated Buddha statue.

Chungju is the gateway to lovely Woraksan National Park and for a two-hour scenic ferry trip across Chungju Lake to sleepy Danyang, which is small-town Korea at its most charming. Explore nearby limestone caves and the stately temple complex of Guin-sa within Sobaeksan National Park.

Use Andong as a base for exploring the surrounding area packed with attractive river and lakeside villages. It’s only a couple of hours by bus from here to Pohang. From Pohang visit Bogyeong-sa temple in a gorgeous valley with 12 waterfalls, then board the ferry to Ulleungdo, a sparsely inhabited, volcanic island.

3 WEEKS

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Muuido &So-Muuido

Gongju

Incheon

IncheonInternational

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YuseongHot Springs

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Beach

Suwon

Chungju LimestoneCaves

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This 850km route around Korea’s greenest and least-industrialised region offers the opportunity to visit scores of rural islands, dine in countless seafood restaurants and dig deep into artistic traditions.

Jeonju has a fascinating hanok village crammed with traditional houses and build-ings. Use it as a base for visiting the 6th-century Geumsan-sa temple in Moaksan Provincial Park. Don’t miss Maisan Provincial Park, where you can hike between a pair of ‘horse ear’ mountains and see a sculptural garden of stone pinnacles piled up by a Buddhist mystic at the Tap-sa temple. Alternatively, go hiking or skiing in beautiful Deogyusan National Park.

The industrial port city of Gunsan boasts Korea’s largest collection of Japanese-colonial-period buildings. From here hop on a ferry to the relaxing island of Seonyudo, situated amid 60 mostly uninhabited small islands. When the tide is in and the sun is out, the views from here are unbelievably beautiful.

Bronze and Iron Age tombs dot the lush green hills around the small village of Gochang, where you can also explore the 15th-century, ivy-covered Moyang Fortress.

Further south, Gwangju is home to several interesting historical sites, museums and a major arts complex. Make a day trip to Damyang to stroll the sandy trails through its Juknokwon bamboo grove. Move on to the port of Mokpo to board boats to the remote havens of Heuksando and Hongdo in the Dadohae Haesang National Park.

Admire Korea’s centuries-old tradition of pottery at Gangjin and taste products made from healthy green tea at the beautiful Boseong Daehan Dawon Tea Plantation.

Go bird spotting in the Ramsar-listed wetlands of Suncheon Bay then continue to Yeosu, site of Expo 2012 and access point for Dolsando, where you can hike up to Hyangiram, a Buddhist temple perched on a cliff.

For a final island experience, take in terraced rice paddies and misty temples on picturesque Namhaedo. The trail finishes at Korea’s second-largest city, Busan.

2 WEEKS

Seonyudo

Mokpo

Gwangju

Damyang

MoaksanProvincial Park

Yeosu

Gochang;Moyang Fortress

Hyangiram

Gunsan

Jeonju

SuncheonBay

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Dawon TeaPlantation

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This two-centre itinerary is well suited to parents travelling with kids.

Seoul’s many parks, interactive muse-ums and, in summer, outdoor swimming pools are ideal for family fun. Older kids will most likely be happy cruising the capi-tal’s vast shopping malls and department stores looking for souvenirs of Korea’s per-vasive pop culture.

Day trips include the beaches of the West Sea islands; Korea’s biggest amuse-ment park, Everland; and the Korean Folk Village. The latter two can just as easily be visited from Suwon, where it’s fun to walk around the walls of an 18th-century fortress. North of Seoul, the modern village of Heyri offers inventive sculptures and art exhibits.

Hop on a flight to Jeju-do, blessed with a fascinating volcanic landscape and dozens of sandy beaches. Amusement and water parks, cycle and skate hire and a whole raft of adventure activities, from quad biking to scuba diving, are possible on this fun-packed island with plenty of world-class resorts.

2 WEEKS Seoul & Jeju Jaunt

Some of South Korea’s top temples feature on this route linking its two main cities.

In Seoul attend a Templelife program at Jogye-sa or Bongeun-sa. Danyang is the transit point for Sobaeksan National Park, where you’ll find modern Guin-sa, headquarters of the Cheontae sect.

Daegu is the base for trips to stunning Haein-sa, housing a World Heritage–listed library of more than 80,000 14th-century woodblocks, and Jikji-sa, a magnificent temple dating to the 5th century.

Jinan is the access town for Tap-sa, a tiny temple surrounded by two ‘horse ear’ mountains and an extraordinary sculptur-al garden of 80 stone pinnacles (or towers). From Gwangju, visit Unju-sa, with its fine collection of stone pagodas and unusual twin and reclining Buddhas.

From Gongju, one-time capital of Ko-rea’s Baekje dynasty, visit remote Magok-sa, with a hall of 1000 pint-sized disciples who are all slightly different.

Finish just outside of Busan at Tongdo- sa, which has an excellent Buddhist art museum containing 30,000 artefacts.

2 WEEKS

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Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro/MRT/MTR station

Petrol stationSkytrain/Subway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

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Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Gate

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Map Legend

Rebecca MilnerJeollanam-do, Jeollabuk-do, Chungcheongnam-do Lucky for Rebecca, Korea is just a short flight from her home in Tokyo. Previous trips had already sold her on the charms of makgeolli and jjimjilbang, so she jumped at the chance to explore the country’s southern reaches for this edition. Highlights included eating live octopus in Mokpo, steaming in the saltwater baths in Hampyeong and having morning tea on the veranda of a 100-year-old home in Jeonju. Rebecca has also

written Lonely Planet’s guides to Tokyo and Japan. Follow her on Twitter @tokyorebecca. Rebecca also wrote the Arts & Architecture chapter.

Phillip TangGangwon-do, Gyeongsangbuk-do, Chungcheongbuk-do Phillip Tang spent this trip inviting himself to Korean homes, tagging along to local street eats and being out-hiked by Koreans twice his age bolting up mountains. He writes about travel on his two loves, Asia and Latin America, and has contributed to Lonely Planet’s guides to China, Japan, Mexico and Peru, and for other publishers. Find his photos, tweets and articles from this Korea visit through philliptang.co.uk. Phillip also wrote the In

the Korean Kitchen, The Natural Environment and Survival Guide chapters.

Rob Whyte Busan & Gyeongsangnam-do, Jeju-do A Busan resident for more than 15 years, Rob spends several weeks each year backpacking across the country in search of secluded getaways. One memorable discovery on this journey was a hamburger restaurant on Udo, which has an amazing collection of Anne of Green Gables memorabilia including a first edition of the book. That discovery was a reminder that we have everything we need for a magnificent journey. Rob also wrote the

Korean People chapter.

Contributing AuthorNorth Korea The author of our North Korea chapter has chosen to remain anonymous.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 98310th edition – February 2016ISBN 978 1 74321 500 5© Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 201610 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Simon Richmond Coordinating author, Seoul UK-born writer and photographer Simon first co- ordinated Lonely Planet’s Korea guide in 2009 when he explored Seoul and its surroundings over several weeks. He liked the place so much that his next visit, to update the 9th edition of Korea and 7th edition of Seoul, saw him spend over two months living in Seoul and travelling down to Jeju-do. For Korea 10, Simon co-ordinated the general coverage of the country and covered central, northern

and western areas of Seoul; he also hiked around the old city walls on a beautiful spring day and had an enjoyable but messy time learning to make magkeolli. Follow him on Twitter, Instagram and at www.simonrichmond.com. Simon also wrote the Plan Your Trip section, as well as the Korea Today and History chapters.

Megan Eaves Lonely Planet’s North Asia Destination Editor, Megan has worked on Lonely Plan-et’s China guide and is a recent convert to the delights of the Korean peninsula. Originally from New Mexico, she is a mountain girl at heart and an avid skier. For this edition, she researched Korea’s winter activities, downing as much kimchi, fried chicken and soju as she could in between stints on the country’s many snowy slopes. You can follow her on Twitter @megoizzy. Megan contributed to

the chapters Gangwon-do, Around Seoul, Chungcheongbuk-do and Jeollabuk-do.

Trent HoldenAround Seoul Having covered the length of the peninsula on other writing as-signments, this is Trent’s first gig working on the Korea book for Lonely Planet. He researched the regions surrounding Seoul, where he was blown away by the area’s diversity and beauty. Trent has worked on over 20 books for Lonely Planet, covering mainly Asia and Africa. You can catch him on twitter @hombreholden.

OUR WRITERS

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Read more about Megan at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/meganeaves

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MORE WRITERS

Sungnyemun C10Tteok Museum G5Unhyeongung F5Waryongmyo F12Yeongnyeongjeon H5Yeongyeongdang H3

GREATER SEOULTransport

Gimpo Airport A3

Neighbourhoods

Bucheon-si A3Dongdaemun-gu F2Dongjak-gu D4Eunpyeong-gu D1Gangbuk-gu F1Gangnam-gu F4Gangseo-gu A2Goyang-si A1Guro-gu A4Gwanak-gu D5

Gwangjin-gu G2Hongdae C3Ihwa-dong F2Jongno-gu E2Jungnang-gu H2Mapo-gu C2Nowon-gu G1Seocho-gu F5Seodaemun-gu D2Seongbuk-gu F2Seongdong-gu G3Sinchon D3

Songpa-gu H5Yangcheon-gu A4Yeongdeungpo-gu C3Yeouido D4Yongsan-gu E3

Sights

National Museum of Korea E4

Olympic Park H4War Memorial of

Korea E3

CENTRAL SEOULStreets

1st Namsan Tunnel H13

2nd Namsan Tunnel J13

3rd Namsan Tunnel F13

BBukchon-ro F3CChangdeokgung-

gil G4Changgyeonggung-

ro J3-5-8Changuimun-ro C1Cheongwadae-ro D3Chungmu-ro H9DDaehak-ro K3-6Daemyeong-gil J3Dasan-ro L13-M11Deoksugung-gil B8Dongho-ro K7-10Dongsomun-ro

K2-M1Dongsung-gil K4Donhwamun-ro G6Donhwamun-ro

11-gil G6EEulji-ro F8-K8GGamgodang-gil E4Gyedong-gil F4HHuam-ro D13Hyehwa-ro J2Hyoja-ro C4IInsa-dong 5-gil F6Insa-dong 7-gil F6Insa-dong 10-gil F6Insa-dong-gil F6Inwansan-ro A2-A4

JJahamun-ro C4Jangchungdan-ro

J13-L10Jilpae-gil C10Jong-ro F7Jong-ro 1-gil D6Jong-ro 9-gil F7Jong-ro 31-gil J6Jong-ro 41-gil L6Jungmuro F10KKimsangok-ro J6MMajang-ro M8Mareunnae-ro J9Myeong-dong-gil

E9NNamdaemun B13Namdaemun-ro

E8-9Northern Namsan

Circuit F11PPirundae-ro B3-4SSaemunan-ro C7Sajik-ro B5Sajik-ro 8-gil C6Sambong-ro E6Samcheong-ro

E3-5Samil-daero F5-7-9Samil-daero

30-gil G6Samil-daero

32-gil G5Samseongyo-ro L2Samseongyo-ro

16-gil M2Sejong-daero

C11-D6-D8Seongbuk-ro K1Seosomun-ro C9Seosulla-gil G5Sogong-ro E9Sopa-ro E11-F11

Southern Namsan Circuit F13

Sowol-ro D12Supyo-ro G7-9TToegye-ro C11-J9Tongil-ro B9UUjeongguk-ro E6YYulgok-ro G5-L6Yunposun-gil E4

Plazas

Gwanghwamun Sq D6

Time Capsule Sq H11

Transport

Railway Stations

Seoul B11

Subway Stations

Anguk F5Beotigogae K14Cheonggu M10Chungjeongno A10Chungmuro H10City Hall D9Dongdaemun L7Dongdaemun

History & Culture Park L8-9

Dongguk University K10

Euljiro 1-ga E8Euljiro 3-ga H8Euljiro 4-ga J8Gwanghwamun D6Gyeongbokgung C5Hangsung

University L1Hoehyeon D10Hyehwa K3Jonggak E7Jongno 3-ga G6-7Jongno 5-ga K7Myeongdong F10Namyeong C15

Seodaemun A8Seoul Station C11Sookmyung

Women’s University C14

Yaksu M12

Neighbourhoods

Anguk-dong F5Changsin-dong M5Chungsin-dong L5Dangju-dong C5Dongdaemun-gu M7Gahoe-dong E3Garwol-dong C15Gwanghui-dong L9Gye-dong F3Gyeo-dong F4Hyehwa-dong K1Ihwa-dong L5Ikseon-dong G6Inhyung-dong H9Jangchung-dong L11Jongno-gu E5Jung-gu H8Myeongryun 2-ga J2Nagwon-dong F6Namchang-dong D11Namsan-dong F10Pirun-dong B5Sajik-dong A5Samseong-dong M3Seochon B4Seongbuk-gu K2Sogong-dong D9Sogyeok-dong E4Tongui-dong C4Unni-dong G5Yeajang-dong G10Yejang-dong F10Yeongeon-dong J4

Sights

Admiral Yi Sun-Sin’s Statue D7

Agriculture Museum B8

Ahn Jung-geun Memorial Hall E12

Amisan D4Another Way of

Seeing E3Arario Museum in

SPACE G5Arko Art Center K4Artside C4Artsonje Center E4Bank of Korea Money

Museum E9Bongsudae G13Bosingak E7Bukchon Hanok

Village F4Bukchon Traditional

Culture Center F4Central Buddhist

Museum E6Changdeokgung G4Changgyeonggung

H4Cheondogyo

Temple F5Cheong-gye Plaza D7Cheong-gye-cheon D7Cheongwadae D2Cheongwadae

Sarangchae C3Citizens Hall D8City Hall D8Culture Station

Seoul 284 C11Daelim

Contemporary Art Museum C5

Deoksugung C8Dongdaemun

Design Plaza & Park L8

Dongdaemun History

Museum M8Dongdaemun

Stadium Memorial M8

Donggun D4Dong-Lim Knot

Workshop F3Donhwamun G4Gahoe Minhwa

Workshop F3Gallery Hyundai E5Gallery Simon C4Gangyeongjeon D4

Geunjeongjeon D5Gonsindang H6Great Greenhouse H3Gungisi Relics

Exhibition Hall D8Gwanghwamun D5Gwanghwamun

Square D6Gwanghwamun

Square Underground Exhibition D6

Gwangjang Market

J7Gyeongbokgung D4Gyeonghoeru D4Gyeonghuigung B6Gyotaejeon D4Hakgojae E4Hammering Man C7Hamnyeongjeon D8Heunghwamun B7Heunginjimun M7Heungnyemun D5Huwon H3Hwabong Gallery F6

Hyangwonjeong D3Hyehwamun K2Ihwa Maeul L5Injeongjeon G4Jean Art Gallery C4Jeonggwanheon D8Jeongjeon H5Jogye-sa E6Jongmyo H6Jongno Tower E7Junghwajeon C8King Sejong Statue D6

Kukje E4Kyungdong

Presbyterian Church L9

Lock Museum K4MMCA Deoksugung

C8MMCA Seoul E4Mokin Museum F6Myeong-dong

Catholic Cathedral F9

Myeongjeongjeon H4

N Seoul Tower F13Nakseonjae H4Namdaemun

Market E10Namsan Outdoor

Botanical Garden H15

Namsangol Hanok Village H10

National Children’s Museum E3

National Folk

Museum of Korea D3

National Museum of Korean Contemporary History D6

National Palace Museum of Korea D5

Open Air Exhibition E4

PLATEAU C10Ryugaheon C4

Sajikdan B5Sejong Gallery D6SeMA

Gyeonghuigung Museum of Art B7

Seokjojeon; Daehan Empire History Museum C8

Seoul Animation Center F10

Seoul City Wall Museum M6

Seoul Metropolitan

Library D8Seoul Museum of

Art D9Seoul Museum of

History B7Seoul Plaza D8Simsimheon F3Sool Gallery F6Soyoam H3Spring Sculpture D7Stone Pagoda of

Wongak-sa G6Sun Art Center F6

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YEAJANG-DONG

SEONGBUK-GU

HYEHWA-DONG

UNNI-DONGDANGJU-DONG

IHWA-DONGPIRUN-DONG

TONGUI-DONG

NAMCHANG-DONG

NAGWON-DONG

JUNG-GU

GYE-DONG

GYEO-DONG

ANGUK-DONG

GAHOE-DONG

SOGONG-DONG

MYEONGRYUN2-GA

GARWOL-DONG

SOGYEOK-DONG

Seoul CityShopping

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SAMSEONG-DONG

SEOCHON

YEONGEON-DONG

CHANGSIN-DONG

SAJIK-DONG CHUNGSIN-

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Chundangji

Sungkyunkwan University

FashionWholesale

& Retail Area

JongmyoPark

NamsanPark

JanchungdanPark

SajikPark

TapgolPark

JongmyoPark

SamcheongPark

NaksanPark

GyeonghuigungPark

DongdaemunHistory &

Culture Park

TimeCapsule

Sq

SamcheongPark

MarronnierPark

Seoul NationalUniversity

Medical CollegeSeoul National

UniversityHospital

Cheong-gye-cheon

Namsan(262m)

Gyeongbokgung

Yaksu

City Hall

Cheonggu

Beotigogae

Hoehyeon

HangsungUniversity

Jongno3-ga Dongdaemun

Gwanghwamun

Chungmuro

Anguk

Dongdaemun History& Culture Park

Jongno3-ga

Seodaemun

SeoulStation

Euljiro 4-ga

Euljiro 1-ga

DonggukUniversity

Euljiro 3-ga

Namyeong

Hyehwa

Jonggak

SookmyungWomen'sUniversity

Chungjeongno

Jongno5-ga

Dongdaemun History& Culture Park

Seoul

Myeongdong

NamsanCable CarStation

Upper CableCar Station

Anguk

Eulji-ro

Saemunan-ro

Samil-daero

Supyo-roJong-ro

Changgyeonggung-ro

Tongil-ro

Majang-ro

Sami l-d a

ero

Daehak-ro

Dae

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Eulji-ro

Toegye-ro

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Deoksugung-gil

Insa-dong 10-gil

Sam

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Seongbuk-ro

Sowol-ro

Huam

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Myeong-dong-gilMareunnae-ro

Samch

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Donhw

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Chungm

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Sajik-ro 8-gil

Jahamun-ro

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Seosomun-ro

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Dongho-ro

Cheongwadae-ro

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Kimsangok-ro

Jong-ro 41-gil

Jong-ro 31-gil

Jong

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-gil

Sejong-daero

Changgyeonggung-ro

Changgyeonggung-ro

Changdeokgung

Deoksugung

Gyeongbokgung

Jogye-sa

N SeoulTower

NamdaemunMarket

GwangjangMarket

Admiral YiSun-Sin'sStatue

AgricultureMuseum

Ahn Jung-geunMemorial Hall

Amisan

Another Wayof Seeing

ArarioMuseumin SPACE

Arko ArtCenter

Artside

ArtsonjeCenter

Bank of KoreaMoney Museum

Bongsudae

Bosingak

BukchonHanokVillage

Bukchon TraditionalCulture Center

CentralBuddhistMuseum

Changgyeonggung

CheondogyoTemple

Cheong-gye Plaza

Cheong-gye-cheon

Cheongwadae

CheongwadaeSarangchae

CultureStationSeoul 284

DaelimContemporary

Art Museum

DongdaemunDesign Plaza& Park

DongdaemunHistoryMuseum

DongdaemunStadiumMemorial

Donggun

Dong-LimKnot Workshop

Donhwamun

GahoeMinhwa

Workshop

GalleryHyundai

GallerySimon

Gangyeongjeon

Geunjeongjeon

Gonsindang

GreatGreenhouse

Gwanghwamun

Gwanghwamun Square

Gyeonghoeru

Gyeonghuigung

GyotaejeonHakgojae

HammeringMan

Hamnyeongjeon

Heunghwamun

Heunginjimun

Heungnyemun

Huwon

HwabongGallery

Hyangwonjeong

Hyehwamun

IhwaMaeul

InjeongjeonJean ArtGallery

Jeonggwanheon

Jeongjeon

Jongmyo

JongnoTower

Junghwajeon

Kukje

KyungdongPresbyterianChurch

LockMuseum

MMCADeoksugung

MMCASeoul

MokinMuseum

Myeong-dongCatholic Cathedral

MyeongjeongjeonNakseonjae

Namsan OutdoorBotanical Garden

NamsangolHanokVillage

NationalChildren'sMuseum

National FolkMuseum of Korea

National Museum ofKorean ContemporaryHistory

National PalaceMuseum of Korea

Open AirExhibition

PLATEAU

Ryugaheon

Sajikdan

Sejong Gallery

SeMAGyeonghuigungMuseum of Art

Seokjojeon;Daehan Empire

History Museum

SeoulAnimationCenter

City Hall;Seoul Metropolitan Library;

Citizens Hall;Gungisi Relics Exhibition Hall

Seoul City WallMuseum

SeoulMuseum

of Art

Seoul Museumof History

SeoulPlaza

Simsimheon

SoolGallery

Soyoam

SpringSculpture

Stone Pagodaof Wongak-sa

SunArt

Center

Sungnyemun

TteokMuseum

Unhyeongung

Waryongmyo

Yeongnyeongjeon

Yeongyeongdang

Skygarden

King Sejong Statue;Gwanghwamun SquareUnderground Exhibition

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Central Seoul #e 0 200 m0 0.1 miles

ParkSportsgroundWater Feature

Cemetery

Train

Cable CarSubway

Pedestrian St/StepsPathLane

Tertiary RdSecondary Rd

Primary RdFreewayTollway

Routes

Areas

Transport

Legend

Seoul

InformationKTO Tourist Information Center (%02-1330); www.visitkorea.or.kr; Cheonggyecheon ro, Jung-gu; h9am-8pm; bLine 1 to Jonggak, Exit 5. The best infor-mation centre; knowledgeable staff, free internet and many brochures and maps.Insa-dong Tourist Information Center (%02-734 0222); Insa-dong 11-gil; h10am-10pm; bLine 3 to Anguk, Exit 6. Two more centres are at the south and north entrances to Insadong-gil.

EmergenciesAmbulance, fire (%119)Police (%112)

Bus, Subway & TaxiBus system (www.bus.go.kr; h5.30am-midnight) Comprehensive and reason-ably priced. Some bus stops have bus route maps in English.International Taxi (%02-1644 2255; www.internationaltaxi.co.kr) Has English-speaking drivers; can be reserved in advance for 20% extra.Subway system (www.smrt.co.kr); h5.30am-midnight. Connects up with destinations beyond the city borders.T-Money card (http://eng.tmoney.co.kr) Bus, subway, taxi and train fares can all be paid using the rechargeable, touch-and-go card.

Jogye-sa E6

2 The headquarters of the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism is home to Daeungjeon,

the largest temple building in Seoul. It comes alive during the city’s spectacular Lotus Lantern Festival. (www.jogyesa.kr/user/english; 55-Ujeongguk-ro, Jongno-gu; bLine 3 to Anguk, Exit 6)

Gyeongbokgung D3

1 The grandest of Seoul’s palaces. With its restored Gwanghwamun entrance, changing-

of-guard ceremonies and several museums, it’s a place you should set aside at least half a day to see. (www.royalpalace.go.kr/html/eng; bLine 3 to Gyeongbokgung, Exit 5)

Namdaemun Market E10

3 At this sprawling round-the-clock market you can find pretty much anything – from

food and flowers to spectacles and camera equipment. (www.namdaemunmarket.co.kr; 21 Namdaemunsijang 4-gil, Jung-gu; bLine 4 to Hoehyeon, Exit 5)

Deoksugung C8

4 Deoksugung (Palace of Virtuous Longevity) is the only one of the four main palaces that

you can visit in the evening to enjoy a quieter at-mosphere and see the buildings illuminated. (www.deoksugung.go.kr; bLine 1 or 2 to City Hall, Exit 2)

Changdeokgung H4

5 A Unesco World Heritage property and the most beautiful of Seoul’s four main palaces,

Changdeokgung (Palace of Illustrious Virtue) was built in the early 15th century. (http://eng.cdg.go.kr/main/main.htm; bLine 3 to Anguk, Exit 3)

Gwangjang Market J7

6 One of Seoul’s best markets. During the day it’s known for secondhand clothes and fab-

rics. At night its alleys fill up with vendors selling all manner of street eats. (88 Changgyeonggung-ro, Jongno-gu; bLine 1 toJongno-5ga, Exit 8, or Line 2 or 5 to Euljiro 4-ga, Exit 4)

N Seoul Tower F13

7 One of Seoul’s most iconic features. If the weather’s fine, the tower’s observation deck

offers panoramic views. At sunset you can watch the city morph into a galaxy of twinkling lights. (www.nseoultower.com; Namsan; gshuttle buses 2, 3 & 5)

National Museum of Korea Greater Seoul E4

8 Korea’s National Museum occupies a grand, marble-lined, modernist complex, and con-

tains cultural treasures from prehistoric times to the Joseon dynasty. (www.museum.go.kr; 137 Seobinggo-ro; bLine 1 or 4 to Ichon, Exit 2)

War Memorial of Korea Greater Seoul E3

9 The huge memorial museum documents the history of warfare in Korea, with photos,

maps, artefacts and black-and-white documen-tary films that give a fascinating insight into war. (www.warmemo.co.kr; 29 Itaewon-ro; bLine 4 or 6 to Samgakji, Exit 12)

Olympic Park Greater Seoul H4

10 This large and pleasant park, a focus of the 1988 Olympics, also contains gal-

leries, museums and sculptures. (www.olympic park.co.kr; 424 Olympic-ro, Songpa-gu; bLine 8 to Mongchontoseong, Exit 1 or Line 5 to Olympic Park Station, Exit 3)

lonelyplanet.comImages by Alex Barlow, Seongjoon Cho, Wendy Connett, dkcyun, Christian Kober/John Warburton-Lee

Photography Ltd, Lim Wai Yen, Richard Nebesky, Simon Richmond, Wibowo Rusli, Steve Vidler/ Getty Images ©. Many thanks to the following for the use of their content: Seoul Metro Map© 2015

Seoul Metropolitan Rapid Transit Corp

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SEOCHO-GU

NOWON-GU

SONGPA-GU

GWANGJIN-GU

SEONGDONG-GU

GURO-GU

GWANAK-GU

GANGBUK-GU

DONGDAEMUN-GU

SEODAEMUN-GU

JONGNO-GU

MAPO-GUGANGSEO-

GU

SEONGBUK-GU

YEONGDEUNGPO-GU

GOYANG-SI

IHWA-DONG

SINCHON

HONGDAE

BUCHEON-SI

GANGNAM-GU

YONGSAN-GU

EUNPYEONG-GU

YANGCHEON-GUYEOUIDO

DONGJAK-GU

Han River (Hangang)

Han River (Hangang)

Seoul NationalUniversity

BukhansanNational

Park

SeonyudoPark

HyochangPark

GimpoInternational

Airport

NationalCemetery

WorldCup Park

Baengnyeonsan(216m)

Achasan(278m)

Daemosan(293m)

Inwangsan(338m)

Ansan(296m)

Umyeonsan(290m) Guryongsan

(283m)

Bukaksan(342m)

Namsan(262m)

OlympicPark

NationalMuseumof Korea

War Memorialof Korea

Central Seoul (see reverse)

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