knots for cavers for cavers-ii.pdf · • splices - interwoven strands (decorative macramé is also...
TRANSCRIPT
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Knots for CaversKnots, Hitches, Bends, and Splices
Step By Step Instructions
For tying knots for Caving
Knot Requirements – by Slide Edge Color
Required Knots
Additional Knots
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Credits
The photography and illustrations in this
presentation are the creation and property
of Grog LLC:
http://www.animatedknots.com
Version 7.0 - May 21, 2017
The text slides were created from
the Basic Vertical Class materials
of the Vertical Section of the NSS.
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Nomenclature
Rope Terms:
• Working end (where the knot is)
• Standing line (middle part, hanging free)
• Running end (free end of the rope)
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Nomenclature
Knot types:
• Knot - Tied configuration that doesn't move or slip.
• Hitches - Tied configuration that ties around an object or
a rope. When the object or rope is removed, the tie falls
apart.
• Bends - Tied configuration between two ends of a
rope(s).
• Splices - Interwoven strands (decorative macramé is
also here).
• Stopper - A knot that is affixed to a rope that causes no
slippage.
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Nomenclature
Knot Terms:
• Body (main part of the knot)
• Loop (turn of rope that crosses itself)
• Bight (doubled loop, doesn't cross itself)
• Tail (free end of the rope after the knot)
(minimum 4 X the rope diameter)
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What Makes a Good Knot?
• Friction - Makes the knot hold.
• Dressing - Aligning the rope through the
knot (increases friction).
• Alignment - Keeping the knot in the
direction of forces.
• Procedure - Tie it, Dress it, Stress it.
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Strength of Knots
• Sharp bends weaken the rope
(A bend of 4 times the rope diameter
causes minimal loss of strength).
• Constriction or girthing (like a barrel knot)
holds the rope.
• "Backing up" a knot (keeps free end from
loosening the tie).
• Efficiency Table (approximate retention of
rope's strength).
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Ties to Learn (Efficiency)
Figure Eight 75-80%
Figure Nine 80-85%
Overhand Bend 50%
Double Overhand Bend 65-70%
Triple Overhand Bend 80+%
Ring Bend (Water Knot) 55%
Bowline 70-75%
Butterfly knot 60-65%
Prusik Knot 80%
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Extra Ties to Learn (Efficiency)
Munter Hitch 75-80%
Chain Braid 100%
Clove Hitch 90+%
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Overhand
For Securing Ends of the tie.
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Bowline
For Securing Equipment to the rope.
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Structure
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Figure Eight
A Strong Knot with Minimal Weakening of Rope.
(Use doubled line to make a Figure Eight Loop
to use at the end of the climbing rope.)
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Structure
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Figure Eight
Follow-Through
A Workhorse Knot
(makes a strong loop; used to tie
the Rope around a fixed anchor).
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Dressed
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Water Knot(Ring Bend)
A Workhorse Knot
(Used for tying rope and webbing together;
Especially good for tying rope or
webbing of dissimilar sizes).
Water Knot (Ring Bend) Tying:
• Tie a loose overhand knot in the end of the strap.
• Thread the other strap in the reverse direction following
the exact path of the first overhand knot.
• Pull the knot tight.
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Double Overhand Bend
(Grapevine Bend)
The Double Fisherman's (Grapevine Bend) is the way to
join two ends of a line to form a Prusik Loop and is also an
excellent and reliable way of joining two climbing ropes.
Double Fisherman's, or Grapevine Bend, Knot Tying:
Overlap the two ends. Wrap one end around both ropes
two full turns. Then pass this end back through these turns
and pull tight. Next pass the other end two full turns around
both ropes. Pass this end back through and pull tight. Pull
on both ropes to tighten the two knots against each other.
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The Back View of the Double Fisherman's is extremely neat
and symmetrical. When ropes of the same color are used, it
appears that four identical loops encircle the junction.
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Butterfly (Loop)(Lineman’s Loop)
What is now known as the Alpine Butterfly provides a
secure loop in the middle of a piece of rope. Load can be
safely applied: from the loop to either end of the rope;
between the two ends with the loop hanging free; or to the
loop with the load spread between the two ends.
Alpine Butterfly Loop (Lineman's Loop) Tying:
Wrap the rope around your hand twice. At the end of turn one,
position the rope close to your fingertips. Continue around and
complete turn two back near your thumb. Pick up the turn near
your fingertips. Wrap it around the other two turns. Slide the knot
off your hand and tighten by pulling on the loop and the ends.
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Prusik Knot (Hitch)The knot requires a "Prusik Loop“. Its principal use is
allowing a rope to be climbed - ascending or "Prusiking".
Two Prusik loops are alternately slid up the static rope: a
long Prusik loop reaches the climber's foot – to allow leg
power for ascending, and a second short Prusik loop is
attached to the harness – to allow sitting.
Prusik Knot (Triple Sliding Hitch) Tying:
Use a piece of cord formed into a loop. Pass the knot
around the rope three times inside the loop. Make sure the
turns lie neatly beside each other and pull the knot tight.
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Munter Hitch(Italian Hitch)
The Munter Hitch - (the Italian Hitch) allows
controlled belaying of a climber or equipment.
Munter Hitch Tying:
The climbing rope passes through a locking carabiner,
round the rope, and back through the carabiner. For
controlled descent, the brake hand need only apply
relatively little force on the free end. Use a carabiner large
enough to allow the hitch to be inverted through the
carabiner when pulled. The load end should pass first
round the spine side (not the opening side) of the
carabiner to prevent chafing against the lock.
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Chain Sinnet(Monkey Braid)
The Chain Braid is used by climbers as a means of
preventing a rope getting tangled, e.g., when being
washed or stored. When used for storing rope, it is
much quicker to make much larger loops.
Chain Braid Tying:
Make a noose in the rope. Form a loop and tuck it into
the noose. Make another loop and tuck it into the
previous loop. Keep repeating. When the chain is long
enough, lock it by passing the end through the final loop.
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Clove HitchThe Clove Hitch is an easily-adjustable tie for
securing cylindrical objects (pipes, logs, etc.).
Clove Hitch Tying:
Pass the end of the rope around the pole. Continue over
the standing end and around the pole a second time.
Thread the end under itself and pull tight to form the
clove hitch.
NOTE: For use with equipment only. This tie can slip or
jam tight under heavy load.
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Practice your knots until you can
tie them in the dark (blindfolded)
… you may have to.
Climb Safely !!!