kilgore trout

FORUM˜SPRING 2012 UNHURRIED AND UNCOMMON SINCE 1977 KILGORETROUT.COM

FASHION AND FANTASY

DESERT DREAMS

THE JACKETAN INDISPENSABLE FINISHING TOUCH

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GROWING UPRETAIL

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ROM AA VERY YOUNG AGE, I realized my dad wasn’t like other dads. My friends’ dads were doctors and lawyers who wore black suits on weekdays and sweats on

weekends. They didn’t get bimonthly manicures. They didn’t have two closets. And they certainly didn’t own more shoes than their wives.

My dad does all of these things—and the examples of what I’ve lived with for the past 19 years are abundant. One Easter when I was about 10 years old, the priest happened to enthusiastically splash holy water on my family, hitting my father with enough to cause a water stain on his blazer. The other families around us probably didn’t care. My father, however, darkly turned to the rest of us and muttered,

It was probably on that day that metrosexual was added to my expanding primary school vocabulary.

I’m sure you’ve noticed that Wally Naymon is a lanky sort of fellow. His pants are tailored to the ankle (“It’s the British thing to do,” he says) and he owns more tweed than I can count. He has

eclectic watches, alligator-skin shoes and an enormous collection of ties. He divides his clothes by season. We could probably start a Kiehl’s skin care store out of his closet. And I think the moment I’ve seen him the angriest was when our beloved cat Gracie ate his Etro sweater. To my dad, looking good isn’t just a necessity—it’s practically a religion.

To my friends who have met and interacted with my father, it’s their impression that having a dad who sells clothes for a living must be awesome. It sounds nice, doesn’t it? I grew up with a lot of nice clothes. I can go to my dad for fashion advice. It was never embarrassing to go out in

public with him because he always dressed well. Sure, in theory it sounds like a pretty good deal.

BY KATIE NAYMON

But if you ever get the chance to go shopping with my father (outside of Kilgore Trout, of course), here’s some advice from me to you: don’t. To the Naymon family, shopping is never just a fun activity to pass the time or score a new look—It’s market research. The fi rst time I brought my dad with me to a J. Crew store was also the last. He took forever touching all of the fabrics, nodding his head in guarded approval at some things and raising an eyebrow at others. Then he would scan the prices and comment at the state of the store’s inventory. And all I wanted was to leisurely look around!

We also can’t go anywhere in Cleveland without a customer recognizing my father and wanting to talk. Behind his back, my mom and I even started calling him the Mayor of Cleveland.

But don’t get me wrong, I am grateful every day that my parents are who they are. From spending time at Kilgore Trout to going on buying trips in New York with my mom, I’ve picked up a lot of useful information. I’ve learned that a body and the hand don’t actually refer to human anatomy. I’m one of few college freshmen who know the di! erence between gingham and tattersall. I could fi ll out a line sheet with very few errors. And I’ve gained a true appreciation and respect for small businesses and the people who run them.

I know a lot of teenagers don’t want to turn into their parents. In my case, it’s already too late. While I don’t think I’ll be starting a clothing store soon, my mom and dad have infl uenced me in ways I never could have imagined. In high school, for example, I started an uno" cial “Leggings are not pants” campaign that I like to think had some degree of infl uence over my Laurel classmates. When it came time for senior superlatives, mine was even Best Dressed, which I credit completely to my parents. Fashion is, without a doubt, a major part of my life.

Hey, what can I say? Blame it on my retail genes.

Katie Naymon is a freshman at Johns Hopkins University studying writing and political science. And yes, she gets dressed up for class everyday!

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The shopkeeper’s daughter tells all.

YOUR FAVORITE OFFER IS BACK!UNTIL APRIL 13, 2012 OR WHILE SUPPLY LASTS. ONE PER CUSTOMER. OTHER RESTRICTIONS APPLY.

KILG_.indd 1KILG_.indd 1 1/14/12 3:42 PM1/14/12 3:42 PM

28601 Chagrin Blvd. Cleveland, OH 44122

216-831-0488 kilgoretrout.com

facebook.com/kilgoretroutcleveland

EDITOR-IN-CHIEFKaren Alberg Grossman

DESIGN DIRECTORHans Gschliesser

MANAGING EDITORJillian LaRochelle

PROJECT MANAGERLisa Montemorra

DESIGNERSCynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti

CONCEPT DIRECTORSAndrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell

MERCHANDISING DIRECTORBob Mitchell

DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTIONPeg Eadie

DIRECTOR OF PREPRESSHugh K. Stanton

BUSINESS JOURNAL S FASHION GROUPPUBLISHER

Stuart NifoussiPRESIDENT AND CEO

Britton JonesCHAIRMAN AND COO

Mac BrightonCHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

Christine Sullivan

APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO

Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CAHubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN

Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OHLarrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA

Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TXMario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WAMitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY

Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CTOak Hall MEMPHIS, TNRodes LOUISVILLE, KY

Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LAStanley Korshak DALLAS, TX

Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA

FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 12 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER

STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM COPYRIGHT 2012. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS

JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175;

ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-686-

6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR

ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, TRANSPARENCIES OR OTHER

MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN

PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 15, ISSUE 1. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

FEATURES1 Welcome Letter

32 Retailing: The Soul of a Merchant

35 Buying Power

52 Escapes: Star Treatment

62 Sports: Much Ado About Ankles

FASHION4 The New Town and Country: Town

18 The New Town and Country: Country

28 Style: Discover Your Inner Italian

30 Profile: Samuelsohn

34 Denim: Attention-Grabbing Style

36 A Walk in the Walled City

44 The Jacket

50 What’s the Bright Idea?

DEPARTMENTS14 Ask Forum for Him

16 Ask Forum for Her

56 World Scene

60 Spirits: Roll the Barrel

64 End Page: Hitting the Right Notes

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THE NEW TOWN AND

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA Milano zero-weight unlined sport jacket

LUCIANO BARBERA soft cotton striped shirt

art direction / design christopher hixsonphotography and digital composition andrew mcallister

KILGORE TROUT’S MUST-HAVES FOR SPRING 2012

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RAG & BONE silk Nimue dress in lemon curry,with epaulets and piping detail

COUNTRY

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DL1961 Emma leggings in ! amingo, parrot, peacock, and ! uorescent yellow


ARNOLD ZIMBERG cotton print shirtswith velvet placket and metal buttons


HERNO micro-weight springtime down jacket in champagne for her


ISAIA 50/50 cashmere and silk plaid sportcoatand blue stripe shirt

G. INGLESE linen pocket square


ELIZABETH AND JAMES swing dress with angel sleeves in blue raw silk


GIANNETTO PORTOFINO 100% cotton men’s shirts with cutaway collars,in three tartan plaid combinations, made in Italy


ETRO paisley sportcoat, printed cu! jean and Eton cutaway collar shirt

EDWARD ARMAH pocket round


JAKETT for her. Jacket or shirt, wear it as you wish. Midnight blue genuine leather with wire on the collar and cu! to create and keep a shape you love.


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SPRINGFASHION TIPS

FOR HIM

ASKFORUM

Q: I’ve had some of my suits for over a decade and they’re holdingup pretty well. How do I know when it’s time to replace them?

Just because your old suits aren’t worn out doesn’t mean they’re still in style.Cuts are slimmer now, so if you haven’t bought a suit since the country had a bal-anced budget, your closet needs updating! Jackets are also slightly shorter, two-buttons are in and pleated pants are out!

The trimmer a suit gets the more important fit becomes, so it’s a good idea toinvest in well-made pieces. Ask us to show you how quality canvassing, construc-tion and fabrics all come together to form the perfect fit, one that highlights yourshape and moves with you without constraining you. We’ll bring you up to speedwith updated models that suit your taste and budget. And don’t forget to pick upa few slimmed-down shirts and ties to complete the new you; nothing ruins thesilhouette of a trim suit faster than wearing a large, lumpy shirt under it.

Q: What can I do to make my casual wardrobe current forspring/summer 2012?

Warm weather sportswear can be casual, but never sloppy. One perfect way toupdate is with the season’s hottest bottoms: slim chinos. Available in bright col-ors and updated neutrals, the new chinos pair equally well with polos or softcoats. Make sure they hit just at the top of your shoe, or roll them up a few timesfor relaxed elegance. Don’t forget to ditch your socks or replace them with onesthat can’t be seen, like the new styles from V.K. Nagrani.

The boat shoe is also back in a big way this summer. We’re firm believers thatdeck shoes offer a perfect footwear option for casual style. Try them with colorfulshorts for day, or dark jeans and a blazer for evening. Drivers and loafers arealways safe bets, too.

Q: My wife switches her closet every season, but I wear the samesuits and slacks all year round. Am I doing something wrong?

Yes! Suits in particular are often designed by season. Tropical-weight, at 6.5 to8.5 ounces per linear yard, is comfortable for spring and summer weather. Mid-weight suits (9 to 10 ounces) can be worn 10 months out of the year, and regular-weight suits (11 to 13 ounces) are suitable for fall and winter months. Some fabrictypes are also more appropriate for certain seasons: linen, cotton and seersuckerin lighter colors help keep you cool in summer, while corduroy, tweed and flannelin darker seasonal tones are great layering pieces for the colder months.

CANALI

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www.sand-europe.com

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SPRINGFASHION TIPS

FOR HER

ASKFORUM

Q: It seems that prints are everywhere, but I’venever considered myself a “prints person.” Help!

From bold geometrics to dreamy florals, our favorite designers are offering allmanner of fabulous prints for 2012. With so many to choose from, there’s some-thing out there for everyone. If you’re new to prints, an easy way to introducethem into your wardrobe is with a flowy, romantic blouse or dress, like the onefrom Vince pictured at left. There are no hard and fast rules, so the most impor-tant thing is to come in and start trying things on! Don’t discount anything untilyou see how it looks on you. We promise to help you find a pretty print you canwear with confidence, and put the spring back in your step this season.

Q: I love white for summer. What can I do to add some visualinterest to an all-white outfit?

If you thought white was boring, or that you could only wear it a few months outof the year, you might be surprised at the lighthearted—and light colored—fash-ions that dominated this season’s runways. You can add both newness andlongevity to your wardrobe by layering different tones (bright white, cream andtaupe) and contrasting textures (pique, eyelet, embroidery and knit). This look isall about approachability and ease, so try a loose, sheer blouse over a georgettecami, or top a silky slipdress with a chunky cardigan. And don’t forget to careful-ly consider your undergarments, the literal foundation for any successful whiteensemble.

Q: Asymmetric hemlines look great on the runway, but how can Itranslate the look for real life?

Skirts, dresses and tops with asymmetric cuts are hot right now, so you’ll beremiss if you let their tricky fits scare you away! Don’t be dismayed if you try iton and it doesn’t look exactly like it did on the model. This style is all about pro-portion, but you can always have a piece tailored and tweaked to flatter your par-ticular shape. Working with your associate is key: she can point you toward thepieces that will work for you, help you decide what alterations to make, and sug-gest the perfect footwear to complete the look.

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EPSTEIN DESIGN PARTNERS, INC.


SAND sleeveless cotton dress with grosgrain belt

SAND tapestry jacket with fabric buttons

THE NEW TOWN

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art direction / design christopher hixsonphotography and digital composition andrew mcallister

AND COUNTRY

GIMO’S GMS75 washed leather jacket, made in Italy

ETRO block plaid cotton shirt in olive, gold and violet

HUDSON JEAN 5-pocket Clifton bootcut, made in USA

MORE MUST-HAVES FOR SPRING 2012

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FUZZI chi! on wrap top

FUZZI " oral shift


GIMO’S women’s butter-soft leather jacket

HUDSON JEANS Beth midrise baby boot cut


HER : GIMO’S cotton/poly blend raincoat with zip pockets and leather accents, made in Italy

HIM: ALLEGRI silky vintage raincoat of double yarn Batavia cotton fabric with re! ned basket dye treatment and Te" on technical waterproof performance, made in Italy


JAKETT Courtney rugged leather vest in “optic” includes three interchangeable snap-in wool collars


ISAIA white cotton cargo pant

MONCLER cotton pique polo


RAG & BONE midnight blue Dover jacket in nylon/cotton

RAG & BONE tailored work wear 100% soft cotton shirt in graph paper blue, and natural canvas jean (rolled)


SAND sea life cotton print sport shirt

SAND black label Angelico jacket, fully lined wool and cotton denim with leather patch sleeves, pocket square in cotton/silk


FUZZI silk and cotton dress with separate underlayer skirt


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IN THE 1960s film La Dolce Vita, main character Marcello Rubini(played to perfection by Marcello Mastroianni) wears a series ofform-fitting two-button suits featuring curvaceous lapels, soft naturalshoulders and cigarette-cut slacks. When not wearing a shirt and tie,he opts for Johnny collar knit shirts accented with a scarf or ascot,casually knotted at the neck in a way only the most debonair Italianmen are capable of pulling off with effectiveness.

No one ever second guesses the character’s (supposedly a journal-ist) sense of style. Forget the fact that no American journalist—except the occasional fashion editor or perhaps the novelist TomWolfe—dresses with such unabashed sartorial flair. In Italy, whetherstudents, statesmen or street sweepers, most men naturally possess asense of chic that eludes the rest of us.

Italians grow up in a culture where sartorial style is taken forgranted. “We have a native predisposition for elegance and style, acharacteristic that has been developed and improved upon overtime,” explains Elisabetta Canali, scion of the Canali clothing family.“Good taste and savoir faire are just a part of the Italian culture.”

By way of tailors (found on every street corner), Italian men learnabout fine fabrics, the importance of a razor-sharp fit and how to mixand match shirts, ties and accessories. Moreover, through experienceand experimentation they discover that a suit with a high armholeisn’t necessarily tight and uncomfortable—just the opposite, in fact.

DRESS LIKE YOU WEREBORN INTO LA DOLCE VITA. BY WILLIAM KISSEL

DISCOVERYOURINNERITALIAN

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Most important, they train themselves notto be afraid of color for fear of being bul-lied or judged. Just as “it is important formen to choose the right silhouette inorder to feel most comfortable, it is equal-ly important to work with color to giveeach outfit some excitement,” addsCanali.

“A man should look for a suithe can wear, and not a suit that will wearhim. In other words, elegance, sophistica-tion and timeless style are always betterthan of-the-moment trends, which willdate the wearer,” offers Giorgio Armani.“As for style, a two-button suit is moretimeless than a three- or a one-button. Asingle-breasted is more versatile thandouble, allowing you to dress your suit upor down more freely and use the jacket asa separate more easily.” Finally, says Mr.Armani, “Confidence and a sense ofhumor make a man sexy.”

Dressing like an Italian is about discov-ering a sense of balance, proportion, colorand pattern. One can begin to developItalian-esque style with a few simpletricks: • Wear dark sunglasses, Mastroianni style,

in any weather. • Don loafers without socks.• Drape and loosely knot a colorful

sweater over your shoulders. • Carry an oversized bag across your

chest.• Secure your necktie with a knot large

enough to land a small plane on.• Add a notice-me belt (white is an option

even in winter) to bring a touch ofpanache to your jeans.

• Wear a coordinating top coat over yoursuit or sportcoat.

• Consider flat-front red pants or whitejeans.If you’re worried about remembering

these rules, turn to a designer collection,like Luciano Barbera or BrunelloCucinelli, for inspiration that can helpmake the process a bit easier. Barberaprefers a bit of formality in his checkcashmere sportcoats, worn with crisp cot-ton shirts, wool ties and flat-fronttrousers. He also recommends brownsuede shoes with most outfits to give yourlook a sporty yet sophisticated edge.

The Cucinelli formula is equally distinc-tive: trim-cut gray flannel slacks or jeans,a knit shirt and/or pullover sweater, and agray cashmere blazer with suede elbowpatches and a turned up collar. SinceArmani invented his slouchy suits in the

’80s, few designers until Cucinelli haveseen their “look” adopted by such aneclectic assortment of men—from the 70-year-old businessman to the 25-year-oldcollege student.

“I think it’s very important how we putthings together,” says Cucinelli, one of thefew Italian designers who espouses facialhair with his cashmere blazers. “I like toshow clothing, even tailored pieces, in asporty chic way that is ageless. Becausewhen I’m 50 years old, like everyone else, Iwant to look younger,” adds the designer(who claims to be 49, despite what it sayson his birth certificate).

Cucinelli designs each piece so it canbe worn on its own and in a variety ofways. “A 25-year-old man is not going towear a classic pinstripe suit,” he says, sug-

gesting that a tailored gray cashmereblazer over khakis or jeans can be equallyelegant, depending on the man wearing it.

Bottom line: open your mind and exper-iment with your wardrobe to find yourperfect style. After all, you may be able toafford a Gucci suit or Prada loafers, butthat cash register receipt doesn’t comewith a diploma in style.

“ELEGANCE,SOPHISTICATION ANDTIMELESS STYLE AREALWAYS BETTER THANOF-THE-MOMENT TRENDS.”—GIORGIO ARMANI

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ounded in 1923, Samuelsohn is a Montreal-based clothing com-pany with a reputation for excellence based on fine tailoring, lux-ury fabrics, unusual attention to detail and modern style.

For Samuelsohn, fine tailoring means fully-basted canvas con-struction: there is no glue in the interlinings of their suits, so that

the garment maintains its shape, fit and comfort even after repeated clean-ings. Their luxury fabrics are from the best mills in Italy and England, fea-turing cashmere, camel hair, superfine wools, Pima cotton, Italian silk andprecious fibers like vicuna and yangir. Hand-tailored details includeBemberg linings, corozo or horn buttons, silk threads and labels, andItalian cotton pocketing.

But perhaps Samuelsohn’s real secret weapon is its designer, ArnoldBrant Silverstone, who grew up working for his family’s clothing companyin Montreal before launching his own in the late 1990s. Respected asone of the most talented designers in the industry, he’s also knownfor his dapper personal style. Here, we speak with him abouttailored clothing, and about what makes a well-dressed man.

What’s so special about a Samuelsohn suit?It’s about hand-craftsmanship: each suit takes six and a halfhours of labor, more than many of the well-known design-er brands that are almost twice the price. Are they made totally by hand?No. If we could automate it all, we would. But there are sev-eral processes a machine can’t duplicate: the hand-basting,the hand-sewn armholes, the shoulder. Certain steps can beautomated and you won’t see the difference, but others cannot.Most importantly, technology has not been able to duplicate afull canvas garment. Cheaper suits look okay on a hanger sincethe shape comes from pressing. But after dry cleaning, that shapeis gone. Your suits are known for a certain “expression”—whatdoes this mean?It means the garments are not flat: there’s a certain dimension, asoftness, a sexiness. After all, the human body is not flat, so a well-tailored suit should also have shape and dimension.What should guys look for when buying a suit?The most important thing is fit: when you put on the garment, itshould make you look better. A well-tailored suit hides myriadimperfections and moves with you. The shoulders should be onyou, not out to there. Today, men are wearing suits closer to the

Samuelsohndesigner ArnoldBrant Silverstone

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OLD WORLD QUALITY, MODERN STYLE.BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

SAMUELSOHN:NEVER COMPROMISE

prof

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body, but that shouldn’t mean you losecomfort. It’s like driving a great sports carand really feeling the road. When youwear a quality suit, it moves with you.How can guys look elegant whenthey’re not wearing suits?The biggest problem is when men equatecasual with not caring, with throwing onjeans and a T-shirt. The best-dressed menput thought into dressing: casual mightmean beautifully tailored cotton pantsand a soft jacket or a lightweight knitcashmere sweater or a cool reversible out-erwear piece. Think back to the best-dressed men over the decades: The RatPack, James Bond, the Kennedys, CaryGrant, George Clooney… However casualthe look, it was well thought-out, notthrown together, reflecting their personalstyle. What are the key items a manshould have for spring/summer2012?1) A great summer suit, maybe a tropicalwool in British tan or dove gray. 2) A per-formance blazer or suit, either with high-twist yarns or some Lycra. Most guysthese days are traveling or on the movebut there’s no reason not to look crisp… 3) A cool outerwear piece: somethingreversible or with interior pockets or trulytransitional and multi-functional. 4) Asoft coat. We’re famous for ours: they looktailored but weigh next to nothing.What’s the secret of success for aclothing manufacturer?Passion! I’ve been doing this for morethan 20 years; I inherited the passionfrom my parents. But in addition to pas-sion, one needs a spirit of innovation.We’re on top of the latest fabrics, fits,technologies. We’re always pushing the

envelope, never satisfied with the statusquo. We want the customer to say“WOW!” every time he puts on one of ourgarments. That’s my passion, and my mis-sion. How would you describe your ownpersonal style? I like to look contemporary: not blendingin with the crowd but not blatantly stand-ing out. I like clothing that’s special, withthe focus on fit, quality and elegance.That’s the way I like to dress and the kindof clothing I love to design!

CLOTHING THAT’S SPECIAL, WITH THE FOCUS ON FIT, QUALITY AND ELEGANCE.

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IF YOU’RE READING THIS MAGAZINE, you’relikely a customer of one of the finest spe-cialty stores in America, run by one of thenation’s top merchants. In today’s highlycompetitive retail environment, how dothese independents compete with storesmany times their size? Bottom line, it’stalent, taste, passion, promotion, businesssavvy, extraordinary service and lots ofhard work! Here, we speak with a few starmerchants in the Forum store group (acoalition of America’s top specialty appar-el stores) to learn what drives them.

Theorizes John Malouf of Malouf’s in

Lubbock, Texas: “We’ve survived by fea-turing only the best product in each cate-gory, and by teaching customers howgreat they can look in the right clothes.”

Adds John Braeger of Garys inNewport Beach, California, “Our secret isbuyers who live in the community so theyreally know their customers: their inter-ests, tastes and lifestyles… Our mix isalways on target because our merchantspersonally know who’s buying it.”

Braeger also points out that independ-ents are more willing to take risks thanstores that are publicly owned. “We buy

smaller quantities with more selection, soyou’re less likely to see someone in townwearing the same thing. Our goal is toplease customers, not shareholders…”

On the misconception that clothingcosts more in independent stores, Maloufis adamant. “We never charge more! Ourprices are based on typical industry mar-gins, but we give customers so muchmore than great fashion.” Extras includecloset makeovers, expert alterations,wardrobe consulting, extended hours, e-mailed photos of new products as theyarrive, rush delivery and many other per-

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THE SOUL OF A MERCHANTNO ONE DOES IT BETTER THAN THESE MULTI-TALENTEDSPECIALTY MERCHANTS. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

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sonalized services. What’s more, independent merchants

often buy designer brands differentlythan the big stores, working personallywith the designers to develop exclusivesand fine-tune assortments. Explains BobWhite of Hubert White in Minneapolis,“Our advantage is knowing who we’rebuying for and combining that per-sonal knowledge with trends in themarket. It’s this mix of client andproduct expertise that separates usfrom our larger competitors.”

Obviously top merchants travelfar and wide to find exclusive prod-uct: many take eight to 10 trips ayear. Says Braeger, “I’d say I spendhalf the year buying, the other halfdoing everything else.” Adds Malouf,“We travel regularly to NYC, Dallas,Vegas and Italy, where we work directlywith the designers. To me, designingbeautiful clothes is analogous to an artistwho paints or a musician who composes:it’s creating something of beauty and last-ing value.”

On a more pragmatic note, Wally

Naymon from Kilgore Trout in Clevelandpoints out that by shopping at locallyowned specialty stores rather than nation-al chains, 80 percent of the money spentstays in the community. But more impor-tantly, says Naymon, independent retail-ers are more interested in developinglong-term relationships than in making

the immediate sale (vs. publicly held com-panies that are pressured to meet month-ly goals). “We’re in it for the long haul,”says Naymon.

Howard Vogt of Rodes in Louisvillesays, “We carry only the best labels, andthen tweak assortments to our customers’lifestyles, our climate, regional events likeThe Kentucky Derby, etc. It’s a very per-sonalized mix you can’t get in the bigdepartment stores.”

Craig Andrisen, co-owner of AndrisenMorton in Denver, believes it’s all aboutrelationships. He points out that “employ-ees who are respected, rewarded and wellcared for treat their customers the sameway.” Adds his business partner DaveMorton, “Our philosophy of business issimple: ‘Never say no, always say yes, thengo figure it out.’ Exceptional service isalways the ultimate goal.”

Sums up Bob Mitchell of Mitchells,Richards, Marsh’s and Wilkes Bashford:“Our personalized approach to everythingwe do, from buying to marketing to serv-ice, allows us to give customers morewithout costing them more.”

“STORES THATSURVIVE ARE

CLEARLY THE BESTOF THE BEST.”

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denim

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HO ISN’T SEARCHING for the perfectjeans, a pair that is both comfortable andsexy? Seemingly impossible standards formost brands to live up to… but AG isn’t mostbrands. Mixing that form-fitting silhouettewith a lived-in feel is what makes AG denimthe hottest on the market.

The company launched in 2001 as a col-laboration between Mr. Yul Ku and “theGodfather of denim” AdrianoGoldschmied. (Ku owns 30-year-old KoosManufacturing, one of the world’s premierdenim factories; Goldschmied co-foundedDiesel.) The two parted amicably in 2004and the brand has been on the up-and-upsince Ku’s son Sam became design direc-tor in 2006.

AG manufactures everything in its own

400,000 sq. ft. facility in Los Angeles,employing over 1,000 workers. The amountof time and personal attention that goesinto each pair is astonishing: from hand-sanding and oven-baked whiskering to neweco-friendly laser technologies that helpcreate that perfect vintage look.

“We control every step because we’re avertical operation,” Sam says. “We don’ttake shortcuts, or try to save a few centshere and there with cheaper fabrics ortrims. We really care about the productand want our consumer to look and feelgood in our jeans.”

Premium fabrics are sourced fromJapan and Italy, many of which are exclu-sive to the brand. Recently, AG has alsoimpressed with its non-denim styles, like

super-soft pima cotton cords. In denim and other fabrics alike, Sam

highlights colored bottoms as one ofspring 2012’s hottest trends. Men shouldtry muted colors like sand and charcoal,while women can experiment with a morediverse range: dusty shades of rose andgray, and saturated brights like electricblue and raspberry.

The brand has garnered frequent pressattention thanks to its many celebritydevotees, including power couple GavinRossdale and Gwen Stefani, and AcademyAward nominee Anne Hathaway. But Samgets most excited when he sees some-one—anyone—walking down the street ina pair he designed. “For me, that willnever get old!”

ATTENTION-GRABBING

STYLEAG JEANS WILL GET YOU NOTICED. BY ELISE M. DIAMANTINI

29 DENIM [10x13]_Attention Grabbing Style.qxp:KILG_ 1/17/12 2:43 PM Page 34

Kilgore Trout unlined softly constructed Italian wool seersucker blazer, until April 7th just $449.90.

We know you need your clothes to last beautifully, so we take exquisite care of every piece of your wardrobe with expert spot removal, hand ! nishing, personal inspection, and the most advanced eco-friendly cleaning system in Ohio.

Call London and relax...We’ll take it from here.

800.832.1222londoncleaners.com

With London Cleaners, valet pick-up and delivery service isn’t an extra, it’s a keystone of our commitment to superior service. No minimum order. No need to be home.

HOW CAN WE OFFER THIS BLAZER FOR ONLY $44990?

I can virtually guarantee that this will be your new favorite summer blazer—lightweight and airy, with a contemporary fi t and ease. Best of all, it’s just $449.90. And here’s why:

Unlike the traditional “stand-alone” retailer, Kilgore Trout has a highly unique a! liation with a small group of family-owned specialty retailers that we call the Forum Group. We’re all independent, yet we trust each other as mentors and peers and we share every aspect of our business with one another, without limits. We visit each other’s stores, we o" er expertise back and forth, we take risks together, we give each other the scoop on hard-to-fi nd resources, and whenever possible use our collective power and respected position in the industry to score some exceptional goods at extraordinary values.

In this case, it’s a wool crepe seersucker blazer with a great feel, European attention to tailoring, and a gorgeous lining—the kind of jacket that should be tagged at $595 (and if any remain after April 7th, they will be). Visit early, and share in the savings.

Deep fashion industry connections, the cooperative buying power of 13of the nation’s best menswear shops,and a demand for quality and valueat every price point.


Fashion_Morocco [10x13].indd 36Fashion_Morocco [10x13].indd 36 1/18/12 3:51 PM1/18/12 3:51 PM

CASB

AHa walk in the walled city

The ancient Moroccan city of Aït Benhaddou – formerly a caravan route between the Sahara and Marrakesh, and location for the fi lm Lawrence of Arabia – provides the perfect canvas for the bold, romantic and timeless looks of spring 2012...

S E R G I O K U R H A J E C

C L A I R E B A Y L E Y

W E N D Y M C N E T T

P H O T O G R A P H Y

H A I R & M A K E U P

S T Y L I N G


citrus anD spice | strong solids | pops of pink


THIS PAGE

Dress by Lela Rose.

OPPOSITE PAGE

Shirt by Isaia, jacket by Canali.


PaT

TERN

Sromantic prints | subtle checks | bold stripes


TheJacket

YOU’RE NEVER FULLY DRESSED WITHOUT...

THE ULTIMATE FINISHING TOUCH ANDTHE KEY TO THE WELL-DRESSED MAN

Spring may be springing, but that doesn’t mean it’s time to walk around without a jacket.

A great-looking lightweight jacket or sportcoat is an essential fi nishing touch for a put-together casual look.

Whether a man walks into a meeting, a meal or a movie... without a jacket, no matter how great the shirt is, the look will be unfi nished, lacking in style and sophistication. This spring, there has never been a more versatile selection of high-performance, lightweight jackets in so many fabrics and

styles. Whether in summer suede, seersucker or silk, cotton, denim or “techno-fi ber” designed to beat the heat,a couple of great jackets can complete any look. And jackets are not just for slacks. Wear them with jeans, khakis, even your favorite shorts!

The Jacket [10x13] kilgore.indd 44The Jacket [10x13] kilgore.indd 44 1/18/12 3:53 PM1/18/12 3:53 PM

JACKET 101: THE EASIEST WAY TO ADD STYLE ANDELEGANCE TO YOUR CASUALEVERYDAY LOOK

FORGETTABLE

MEMORABLE!


SUEDE OR SEERSUCKER, COTTON ORCASHMERE... A JACKET ADDS ELEGANCEAND TEXTURE TO ANY OUTFIT.


FORGETTABLE

DON’T MAKE THE MISTAKE OFTHINKING THAT JUSTBECAUSE IT’S WARM YOU DON’T NEEDA JACKET!

MEMORABLE!

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TRAVELS LIKE A PRO AND TAKES A LOAD OFF YOUR PANTS POCKETS.

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JACKET NOTOPTIONAL: A MERE SHIRT AND TIE MAY BE SUITABLEFOR A STUDENT, BUT NOT FOR A MAN WHO MEANS BUSINESS.

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SCORE A DEAL ON OURRAFFI POLO IN 5 HUES1

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TREATMENTStar

52

THE IDEA OF CAMPING—fresh air, friends gath-ering around a campfire, slumberingunder the stars—appeals to almost every-one. Sleeping on the ground, dirt-speck-led food and primitive bathroom facilitiesdo not. Fortunately, enterprising campcreators are removing much of theuncomfortable stuff from a stay in thegreat outdoors, preserving all the goodand adding even more incentives. Glamcamping, or “glamping” as it’s now called,has spread around the world.

The Clayoquot Wilderness Resort islocated on the west coast of Vancouver

Island (reachable by boat or sea plane).Here, guests who love the great outdoorscan hike, fish, or climb to a treetopobservation platform to view one of theoldest temperate rainforests in theworld, then “fly” over the forest via a 285meter-long flight line. For those who pre-fer less strenuous exploits, Clayoquotoffers wine tastings, spa tents andlibrary tents with an internet café. Andthe accommodations will surely attractthe luxury-loving camper. Tents reminis-cent of those used in 19th-century greatsafari camps have king beds with down

BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON

Below: Sleepunder the starsin the SabiSands region ofSouth Africa.

29 ESCAPES[10x13]_Star Treatment.qxp:KILG_ 1/17/12 3:56 PM Page 52

duvets, antique dressers and tea tables,Persian carpets, working bathrooms andheated floors. There are even bathrobesand turndown service.

The Resort at Paws Up, located on37,000 acres along the Blackfoot Rivernear Missoula, Montana, offers a rangeof year-round activities: 120 miles of des-ignated hiking and riding trails, fly-fish-ing, whitewater rafting, cross-countryskiing, and more. Recently, Paws Up hasopened their most luxurious tentedaccommodations ever. Set on a bluffoverlooking the Blackfoot River and ElkCreek, Pinnacle Camp has one- and two-bedroom suites with climate controls,jetted tubs in the ensuite bathrooms anddecks with river views. There’s even apersonal “camping butler.”

If you want to go off by yourself, bou-tique adventure company Global

Expeditions, Inc. offers private customexcursions. This company doesn’t havea fixed location or standard package.Instead, an area is leased exclusively foryou and a luxury tented camp is creat-ed. Global will fly in a chef from any-where in the world, and cater to yourwhims with yoga masters, masseurs andestheticians, or authorities on geology,ecology and astronomy.

For stargazers, there are several otheroptions. Abercrombie & Kent will

arrange for you to explore the mysteri-ous Sahara Desert. After a tour of thearea (including Berber villages and theAtlas Mountains) guests set off acrossthe desert for a four-wheel drive to thecamp, situated in a remote area over-looking the Erg Chebbi Dunes. There’s asunset camel ride through the Sahara’sdazzling expanse, followed by aMoroccan dinner, traditional entertain-ment and a spacious Caidal tent.

Then there’s Four Rivers FloatingEco-Lodge in Cambodia, located inTatai, next to the Thai border betweenBangkok and Phnom Penh. There are12 tented villas, each with a flat-screenTV, mini-bar and wi-fi. You can trekinto the jungle to explore one of theworld’s largest rainforests, kayak downriver, fish, or perhaps stop off for anatural hydro massage in the TataiWaterfalls. At the end of the day, youcan relax on your private sun-loungerbalcony for a cocktail.

If you want to get away from (and above)it all, Lion World Tours, specializing intrips to southern and eastern Africa, canarrange for you to stay in a treehouse. Inthe Sabi Sands region of South Africa, anastonishing bedroom has been builtaround a majestic 500-year-old Leadwoodtree. Guests are taken to the camp at sun-set to gaze out over the plains whileenjoying Champagne and local delicacies,before turning in on lavish linens in com-plete privacy… and, naturally, sleepingunder the stars.

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Above, left: The Four Rivers

Floating Eco-Lodgein Cambodia

Above, Right:Abercrombie &Kent’s SaharaDesert Camp

54

29 ESCAPES[10x13]_Star Treatment.qxp:KILG_ 1/31/12 1:21 PM Page 54

CELEBRATE OUR INDEPENDENTS!

reso

urce

s

Our town has some great local merchants and professional resources, and here are a few favorites. When you visit, tell them Kilgore Trout sent you.

From the most signifi cant international artists of the 20th and 21st centuries to artists gaining world-wide recognition, CONTESSA GALLERY exhibits unique, highly sought after, museum-quality artwork. Picasso, Warhol, Close and Drebin are among the notables on view or in their extensive inventory of original paintings, works on paper, sculpture and photography.

CONTESSA GALLERY AT LEGACY VILLAGE, 216.382.7800, CONTESSAGALLERY.COM

“There are so many cute shoes in the world; why aren’t there more cute shoe stores?” is what shoe-lover Amy Puchowicz once thought. With two locations now, AMY’S SHOES carries a wide variety of special styles for distinctive tastes, while o! ering superior customer service.

TWO LOCATIONS: ETON CHAGRIN BOULEVARD, 216.292.0120, AMYSSHOES.COMOLD RIVER SHOPPING AREA, 19134 OLD DETROIT RD, ROCKY RIVER, 440.409.0120

So often, we see a great cut or color, and we ask our customer “Who does your hair?” And many times, the answer is “Studio MZ, of course.” STUDIO MZ loves their clients, and has created a welcoming, comforting, stylish destination salon o! ering a complete range of services for women and men —and it’s just up the street.

STUDIO MZ SALON, 27629 CHAGRIN BOULEVARD, 216.464.3910, STUDIOMZ.NET

No matter your preference in architecture style, location or price, CICI RILEY is the one to call! She o! ers discreet professional service of the highest order, an unwavering attention to detail, and with the backing of Howard Hanna, unparalleled customized marketing programs and the highest level of industry services with hands-on

attention to each client’s unique and individual needs.

CICI RILEY, CRS, REALTOR/BROKER, HOWARD HANNA, 216.831.9310, CICIRILEY.COM

Discover your dream destination for professional makeup application, brow sculpting, makeup lessons, specialized facial treatments with results, and a boutique fi lled with fabulous products for pampering. Trust the professional artists at THE POWDER ROOM for fl awless bridal makeup, too. They’ll host your special day, or have their team come to you!

INSIDE ETON CHAGRIN BOULEVARD, 216.831.7666, THEPOWDERROOMBOUTIQUE.COM

Award-winning interiors for people who seek individuality are the hallmark of JOHN FLORIAN KONCAR. John o! ers complete residential transformations, customized renovations and interior decoration, tailored as fi nely as a bespoke suit and personal to the lives of the owners, all designed with confi dence, elegance and comfort. As John is fond of saying, “appropriateness is all.”

JOHN KONCAR INTERIORS, 216.831.1105, BROWSE HIS PORTFOLIO AT JOHNKONCAR.COM

AND DON’T MISS THESE SPRING EVENTS AT TROUT...Visit kilgoretrout.com or our Facebook page for up-to-the-minute details!

Through April 13th Spend $500 and get a $100 Zach Bruell Restaurant Gift Certificate*

Friday & Saturday, March 9 & 10 Ermenegildo Zegna Made-to-Measure Event

Thursday, March 15 Denim Go Bragh! It’s St. Patrick’s Day in our Women’s Store

Friday & Saturday, March 30 & 31 Samuelsohn Made-to-Measure & W. Kleinberg Leather Goods

Friday & Saturday, April 20 & 21 Rag & Bone Launch Party and Trunk Event (men and women)

*One offer per customer, rules and exclusions apply, please see kilgoretrout.com or call your sales consultant for complete details.

Untitled-1 55Untitled-1 55 2/1/12 1:55 PM2/1/12 1:55 PM

56

UN JOUR EN NORMANDIEThe lovely little town of Bayeux in Normandy, near the English Channel, is home to the celebrated 230-foot tapestry depicting the Norman invasion of

Britain, not to mention extraordinary cheese, the Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Bayeux and a landscape layered with centuries of history. A drive throughthe lush countryside offers glimpses of châteaus, apple orchards and the famous Normandy cows, arguably the most tranquil in the world. Naturally,

you’ll want to visit the inspiring and poignant beaches and artifacts of the World War II invasion. (At Port en Bessin, right above a German bunker, noticethe watchtower built by the soldiers of Louis XV.) Nearby is the 17th-century Château de Balleroy, the Forbes family home. So is Brécy, a manor house withrestored Italian-style gardens laid out over four terraces. The Château de Brouay, a mid-18th century château surrounded by farms, has been a family estatefor six generations; you can arrange to lunch in the château or have a cocktail in the orchards. And don’t miss La Haizerie farm, where you might be invit-ed to pet the cows before tasting the homemade lavender ice cream.

THE ART OF STYLELe Royal Monceau, Raffles in Paris is a very fashionable hotel. Between rushing out to glamorous appointments, modish guests dine in the restaurants,

gather at Le Bar Long for cocktails, or indulge in the Spa My Blend by Clarins (which has the longest indoor pool in Paris). And it’s the ideal hotel forart lovers. Paintings, drawings and photography exhibitions are in the lobby, the rooms… everywhere. There’s even a contemporary fresco, A Garden

in Paris, on the ceiling of La Cuisine. Le Royal Monceau is also home to the city’s first art concierge, who offers tours of the hotel’s treasures and organiz-es excursions, such as a visit to contemporary art galleries in the Marais and St. Germain areas, or a private viewing of the Henri Matisse exhibition inPompidou. In Paris, home is where the art is.

world

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Experience life’s little luxuries. By Donald Charles Richardson

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58

PLUGGED INEven if you’re not a motorcy-

cle enthusiast, chances areyou’re going to want to tool

around the countryside (or slipquickly through city traffic) thissummer on the top-of-the-linebike from Evolve. The TitaniumXR is all electric: no gas, no oil, noemissions. It can go up to 60miles per hour, has a range of 100miles on one charge and isalmost completely silent. At yourrequest, Evolve will even makecoordinating accessories, such asa container sized perfectly tohold your picnic basket or bottleof bubbly.

SUMMER READINGThere’s a reason Twin Farms is a nice place to

curl up with a good book. Set in Vermont,just north of Woodstock on 300 acres of

meadows and woodlands, this quiet countryhideaway was once the home of Sinclair Lewisand Dorothy Thompson. Here, many of the greatnames in literature gathered to talk (and proba-bly argue) about their work and lives. TwinFarms retains its aura of simplicity and coziness.There are hand-painted murals, rich maple andpine woodwork, American folk art and rusticallyelegant accommodations, with king-size featherbeds, wood-burning fireplaces and screenedporches. If you need to stretch, there’s hiking,biking, tennis, pond swimming, fly fishing andcanoeing. But why bother? Just relax and catchup on your reading. IM

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FROM THE TOPOn warm evenings, New Yorkers love to gather at rooftop

lounges. Upstairs At The Kimberly is a favorite amongcelebrities and fashion insiders. The view is spectacular,

the lounge is never uncomfortably crowded (there’s a strictrule about the number of people admitted), and the staff ischarming. Together, sommeliers Branimir Kostic and NikoMavreas have created an extensive list that boasts a collectionof spirits and wines from all over the world, including an aston-ishing 26 different kinds of Champagne. There are wonderfulsavory and sweet things to munch on (try the truffled mac andcheese or lobster sliders), and either sommelier is happy tohelp guests choose a wine and food pairing. Reach for the stars.IM

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Spring 2012

coppley.com

View the rest of the Spring 2012 collection


atered down" liquor is a loaded term,implying a less-than-premium prod-uct. The fact is, almost all hard spiritsare watered down before you buy

them. By U.S. law, most hard spirits must have aminimum ABV (alcohol by volume) of 40%, or 80proof (liqueurs, sweetened, infused alcoholic bev-erages, can have a much lower ABV). Since boozeusually comes off the still between 110 and 190

proof, water is added to bring it down to ouracquired palate and maximize the base product.

The concept of ‘cask-strength’ spirits—that is,bottling the product exactly as drawn from amaturing barrel—has only recently gainedcachet, particularly among Scotch whiskydrinkers. These days, there are cask-strengthreleases of Laphroig, The Glenlivet, TheMacallan and so on, targeting the malt whiskyaficionado. "Cask-strength whiskies generallyhave a much more intense flavor profile," saysMichael J. Neff, co-owner of the whisky-drivenManhattan bar Ward III. "It allows a broaderrange of experience.”

‘Cask strength,’ by convention, is "the naturalstrength of the spirit, unadulterated by water, and isdependent on maturation conditions," says IainMcCallum, master blender for The Bowmore,Auchentoshan and Glen Garioch whiskies. As aresult, the final proof usually differs from bottling tobottling, so the latest release of AuchentoshanValinch might have an ABV of 57.5%, whileBowmore's 10-year Tempest Batch 2 is 56%.

Whisky and bourbon aren't the only aged spiritsdrinkers are sipping straight from the barrel thesedays:

• DeLeon Tequila, a relatively new luxury label,released its extra-aged expression last fall at caskstrength. The $250 tequila, aged 51 months, comesin at 51 proof. Founder Brent Hocking is confidentin the purity of his product. "At cask strength, youcan taste flaws or additives," he says.

• Because Cognac is generally a blend ofdozens of barrels, and heavily regulated byFrench law, it's rare to find cask-strength expres-sions in America. So when Pierre FerrandCognac released its $600 limited edition 1972Cask Strength a couple of years ago, it was a bigdeal. And when it's gone, it's gone.

• Pisco, a white, brandy-like grape spirit, is gain-ing popularity in North America. According toJohnny Schuler, founder of the new premium labelPisco Porton, "in Peru, pisco is distilled tostrength, with no water, oak or anything elseadded." This produces a clean spirit at about 86proof. "It's an honest drink," Schuler says.

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ROLL OUTTHE BARREL

CASK-STRENGTH SPIRITS MOVE BEYOND WHISKY. BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON

29 SPIRITS_[10x13]Roll Out the Barrel.qxp:KILG_ 2/1/12 1:45 PM Page 60

T H E U L T I M A T E T R O U S E R


62

READERS PLEASE NOTE: An importantfashion trend is emerging, andfrom Major League Baseball, of allconservative places! It concernsstockings.

No, not the Cincinnati RedStockings, the first American base-

ball team whose players got paid toplay (1869). Nor sox as in BostonRed Sox or Chicago White Sox.

This discernible drift is to socksthat come up to the knees—kneesocks—and thus eschew those longloose pants now standard in MLB.

(Some pant legs these days are soelongated it’s a wonder playersdon’t trip and fall on the way tohome plate!)

Knee socks in two styles, plainand stirrup, are trending, I sense,perhaps because baseball players

New YorkYankees Curtis

Granderson,left, and DerekJeter celebrateas they score

on August19th, 2011, in

Minneapolis.

“WE’RE SEEING THE BEGINNING OF A SHIFT BACK TO THE OLDDAYS, WITH BOTH SOLID HIGH SOCKS AND STIRRUPS.”

MUCH ADO ABOUT ANKLES

MLB PLAYERS ARESHOWING SOME LEG. BY WILLIAM N. WALLACE

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29 SPORTS[10x13]_Much Ado About Ankles.qxp:KILG_ 1/17/12 2:48 PM Page 62

have little choice in what they wearto games. The essence of a uni-form is that all dress the same,which means the cap, the shirt andthe pants are standard issue. Inother words, all parts of the base-ball uniform are preordained...except for the socks.

urtis Granderson, theNew York Yankees’star center fielder,wears knee socks indark Yankee blue. Sodoes teammate Alex“A-Rod” Rodriguez,the multi-million dol-lar third baseman.

Yet like the vast majority of MLBplayers, teammate Derek Jeterdoes not.

The fashion iconoclasts areattention grabbers. In casuallywatching last year’s World Series,

my wife picked up on the stockingsof Octavio Dotel, one of many reliefpitchers for the winning St. LouisCardinals. He was wearing boldstirrup socks—red ones with blueand white stripes. Dotel’s choice oflegwear under the bright lights ofthe World Series brought back thepast. Reader, surely you have heardof Napoleon Lajoie? Nap Lajoie wasso good that the team he played forwas named after him: theCleveland Napoleons of the newlyfounded American League in theearly 1900s. In that era, playerswore wool socks that pulled upover the knee.

During a 1905 game, Lajoie wasspiked by a rival shortstop namedO’Leary when Nap came slidinginto second base. O’Leary’s shoespikes cut through Lajoie’s stock-ing and into his leg, drawing blood.The Boston Globe later reported

that Lajoie had come down with“blood poisoning” because the dyefrom the stocking got into thewound. It was an unlikely tale, butnevertheless the next season,Cleveland players wore pure whitestockings to avoid blood poisoning(according to the Globe).

Soon the players were wearingtwo pairs of socks: the thin whiteunderneath called “the sanitary”and a colored one on top. Thatdouble layer made for a snug fit inthe shoe, so the colored toes andheels were cut away. The effect wasa stirrup sock, a fashion featurethat endured for decades.

These stockings were worn invarious display colors to identifythe teams: brown for the St. LouisBrowns for example. Babe Ruthwore green socks when he waswith the Brooklyn Dodgers.

Ruth? The great Yankees All-Starwas never a Dodger, you’re think-ing. But yes, he was: as the firstbase coach in 1937, in a publicitystunt to sell tickets. And the uni-form trim was green that seasonbut soon returned to Dodger blue.

The stirrup sock, universal by1910, acquired tweaks in its evolu-tion. More and more of the outerwas cut away, leaving in somecases just a thin strip of identify-ing color pulled over the whitestocking underneath.

We know a lot about the subjectthanks to baseball historian MarkOkkonen, author of BaseballUniforms of the 20th Century. Thatbig picture book was published in1991 as the pants trend continuedto go south of the kneecap.Okkonen chose to ignore it.

Earlier, Carl Hubbell, ace pitcherfor the New York Giants in the

1930s, had rolled his pants wellbelow the knee. So did TedWilliams, the Red Sox slugger ofthe 1940s and ’50s. But they wereexceptions. Ultimately, longerpants all but eliminated the kneesock as uniform. Something wasdefinitely lost, says Tyler Kepner,the Times’ lead baseball columnist.

“I would love to see players showmore socks or stirrups and expressthemselves within the confines ofthe uniform,” he told me. “Butmost go with the modern trend ofwearing pants to the ankles orlower, showing no sock at all.’’

As with many a fashion trend,it’s hard to grasp what forces low-ered pant legs. My theory is thatonce the big stars—like BarryBonds as he came on in the ’80s—dropped their pants, others fol-lowed like sheep.

But now we’re seeing the begin-ning of a shift back to the old days,with both solid high socks and stir-rups. Said Kepner, “Guys like A-Rod, Ian Kinsler (Texas Rangers),Hunter Pence (PhiladelphiaPhillies) and Dave Robertson (NewYork Yankees) don’t wear stirrupslike they did in the old days. Butthey do display a lot of their stan-dard, colored socks.

“A few guys do prefer actual stir-rups, but very few: Juan Pierre(Chicago White Sox), UbaldoJimenez (Cleveland Indians),Octavio Dotel (St. LouisCardinals), Josh Outman(Oakland) and Reed Johnson(Chicago Cubs) come to mind. Butmostly it’s the plain high socks.Too bad.” William N. Wallace is a retiredsportswriter for The New YorkTimes, working from Westport, CT.

63

“I WOULD LOVE TO SEE PLAYERS SHOW MORE SOCKS OR STIRRUPSAND EXPRESS THEMSELVES WITHIN THE CONFINES OF THE UNIFORM.”

—TYLER KEPNER, THE NEW YORK TIMES

29 SPORTS[10x13]_Much Ado About Ankles.qxp:KILG_ 1/17/12 2:48 PM Page 63

IN 1935, AT 10 YEARS OLD, my father lost his dad ina fire. The death left a Polish-speaking widow to raiseher six children in the blue collar town of Sayreville,New Jersey. With no father at home, my dad adoptedmultiple father figures from his working class, Catholictown. They taught him how to smoke, sing, swear, tie afour-in-hand and handle his whiskey. By 14, JuliusAnthony Richard Rarus was singing with these men—most twice his age—in a Sayreville glee club.

After graduating from a Catholic high school, mydad joined the Army, serving as a payroll master on abase in America’s Bible Belt. The only action he sawduring WWII was at the officer’s club, in his tailor’sshop, and in the beds of the local girls who’d fall for thehandsome singer in the custom-made khaki uniform.

After the war came college, the Cold War, and a pos-sible new career. At the time, J. Edgar Hoover’s menwere recruiting agents who could ferret outCommunist infiltrators from post-war Eastern Europe.Aware of my dad’s Polish fluency, they pursued him,noting that his crisply tailored Ivy League suits, rakishfedoras and linen pocket squares would serve him wellwith The Director. But after months of interviews,background checks and tails from other agents to seewhere he drank, slept and prayed, he was passed overfor being “too liberal.”

He’d tell me these stories on Sunday nights, as he filedhis nails, polished his Aldens and brushed his fur felt

hats. He’d hum along to StanKenton, Benny Goodman and FrankSinatra on the Hi-Fi, and reminisceabout how he courted my mother injazz clubs while being courted by theF.B.I. “I’d wear my best custom suits,hire a chauffeured car, pick up Momover in Princeton, and we’d driveinto the city to see Lenny Bruce,George Shearing, Maxine Sullivan,

Tony Bennett…”Years after my dad’s passing, I found myself standing

next to Tony Bennett in a Manhattan men’s store. Webegan a conversation about music. “Music is good orit’s not music,” Mr. Bennett told me with unabashedcertainty. “We might call it music because it soundslike music, but it’s bad sound. It’s that simple andalways has been.” He leaned forward, stared into myeyes with fatherly concern and asked, softly,“Understand?”

I didn’t, to be honest. But I knew my dad would haveunderstood perfectly.

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LIKE GOOD MUSIC STYLE ISA MÉLANGE OF ECLECTICELEMENTS, THE WHOLEINEFFABLY GREATER THANITS PARTS. BY JAMES RARUS

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