kalofagas comes to chicago
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A review of the Jan.9th Dinner held at Avli Restaurant in Winnetka, Ill. with Louie Alexakis.TRANSCRIPT
On January 9, renowned Greek food blogger "Kalofagas" Peter Minaki, brought his Greek Supper Club to Avli Estiatorio in Winnetka, Ill.
Minaki, (L) and Avli proprietor and gastronomic visionary Louie Alexakis (R) collaborated on a truly unforgettable meal
Image: Peter Minaki/Kalofagas.ca
Wednesday, 29 January 2014 10:48
Kalofagas Comes to ChicagoWritten by Maria A. Karamitsos
CHICAGO---The renowned food blogger Kalofagas, a.k.a. Peter Minaki, brought his gourmet supper club to Chicago
for a culinary experience that would please any aficionado of fine food. Louie Alexakis and his Avli Estiatorio in
Winnetka, Ill. were the hosts for this event, which hopefully, is the first of more to come.
“Peter’s been doing these pop-up dinners across Canada, and now coming in the US,” announcedAlexakis, to the nearly sold out crowd. “It’s been a while in the making, but we’re so pleased to present this eveningto you.”
The two enthusiasts of the culinary arts collaborated on the night’s menu, combining their vast
gastronomic experience, and a few creative ideas thrown in for good measure. The menu was an homage to the
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cuisine of Northern Greece. The two alternated speaking between courses, introducing each dish, explaining its
preparation and history. Wines for the evening were provided by Distinctive Imports.
The appetizer, “Bombidia and Prassotigania,”was paired with Tselepos Amalia Sparkling Moschofilero. The
tiny meatballs, (bombidi—little bombs) were served with Minaki’s interpretation of a mustard sauce he encountered
on a trip to Thessaloniki. The unexpected but very welcomed accompaniment elevated the meatballs to something
to talk about—and have seconds.
The next course featured a “Politiki Salata,” a salad celebrating winter vegetables, featuring cabbage, red
peppers, carrots, celery and even red cabbage (a little North American influence snuck in). Alexakis explained that it
was ideal for a dinner party, as it “cleanses the palate between courses.” He also told the crowd that we shouldn’t
shy away from things like apple cider or white rice vinegar in Greek cooking, both of which are great for curing the
cabbage, to which they added sugar and salt to soften it. The salad was paired with a 2012 Techni Alpias Sauvignon
Blanc, an elegant mineral-laden wine, blended with some assyrtiko to round it out and “tie it more closely to Greece.”
The main course was a show-stopping two dishes on one plate: “Pork Shoulder with Prune” and “Braised
Lamb Kokkinisto with Smoked Eggplant Puree.” The first was served on a cloud—er, a puree of celery root and leek
sauce that was simply divine. Originally intended for the quince, but since not readily available, the prune took its
place—a fine substitution, if I may say. The lamb was braised with wine, tomatoes, allspice and cloves—so tender, it
fell apart when you touched it with a fork. It was served atop an eggplant puree, made from eggplant blackened until
smoky then added to a bechamel sauce and finished with kefalograviera cheese. This course was paired with 2008
Paros Red Reserve, from Moraitis, which blends mandilaria grapes with white Monemvasia grapes, which
aficionados of Bordeaux or Rioja would enjoy.
If that’s not enough to make your stomach growl, the final course came delivered in a fine phyllo parcel—a
trigona (triangle). “Trigona Panorama, named for the Panorama Bakery in Thessaloniki, featured a perfectly shaped
phyllo “container,” whose preparation Minaki has perfected, and Alexakis called, “well worth the price of Minaki’s
cookbook”: the forms are stuffed with crumpled balls of parchment paper prior to baking to maintain their shape and
stay hollow. Each is filled with a luscious custard dipped in Greek honey syrup and topped with toasted almonds. It’s
tiny, but rich. You will find yourself in an inner battle over whether or not to have a second. It was paired with, in my
opinion, the most interesting libation of the evening: 2008 Moraitis Malvasia of Paros. The vinsanto dessert wine, a
port-like wine, will have you trading in your trusty port. I had to buy a bottle, so I could bring home some of this thick,
golden ambrosia.
Truly, it’s no exaggeration to say this was a meal fit for the gods. If you missed it, be sure to catch Minaki
on a return trip. He said he “fell in love with Chicago,” and will definitely be back. Visit his blog for more recipes andinspiration.
Minaki explored our city’s culinary offerings. He also appeared at the National Hellenic Museum to speak
about his book, “Everything Mediterranean,” and demonstrated how to make Vasilopita.
There’s more to Greek cuisine that Pastitsio and Greek chicken. Try new things. Take your taste buds and
your other senses on a culinary adventure into the seasonal and regional interpretations of Greek cooking that have
been elevated for our delight. You’ll thank me later. Kali Orexi!
MARIA A. KARAMITSOS
Associate Editor
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A proud Greek-American, Maria A. Karamitsos loves to write about all things Greek. She
began contributing to The Greek Star in June 2005, and has served as Associate Editor since
January 2006.
Maria's work can also be found in GreekCircle magazine, USA.GreekReporter.com, The National Herald and
Harlots Sauce Radio. She recently contributed to The Chicago Area Ethnic Handbook and the Voices of
Hellenism Literary Journal. Under her maiden name, Maria A. Fotinopoulos, she served as Food Editor for the
book, Greektown Chicago: Its History, Its Recipes, by Alexa Ganakos.
Additionally, she's the author of the forthcoming book, "Positive About Negative: Adventures in Molar Pregnancy,"
about her experience with molar pregnancy and is the moderator of an online support group for women who've
endured a molar pregnancy. Maria takes a light-hearted look at the trials and tribulations of parenting on her
blog, From the Mommy Files.
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Peter MinakiThursday, January 30, 2014
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