june issue for scratch mag

8/8/2019 June Issue for Scratch Mag

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Scratch 254 Scratch

ProfeSSionalsystems

l s sp m

my lq & P, s y

s ss s m. h Scratch

s p a-Z sysm

By Helen Stone

rofeSSionalsystems

APPlicationA-ZL&PBlending

The acrylic system consists o primer, liquid

monomer and acrylic powder, explains Kelly

Limbrick, training ambassador or United Beauty.

The standard application technique is to use a

sable hair brush, dipped in the liquid and then in the

powder. The common ratio o liquid to powder is a

two-parts liquid to one-part powder mix, says Elaine

Watson, vice president o marketing at Star Nail Int.

It can then be applied over a natural nail, a plastic

tip or sculpted onto the natural nail using a orm,

adds top tech Trish Lomax.

Applicaion ipTo get the best results rom L&P products its very

mportant to always ollow manuacturers guidelines,

cites Anna Germaine o The Edge Nail & Beauty.

Never be tempted to mix one brand o liquid with

another brand o powder. By doing this you will upset

the ne balance o the ingredients.

The nitty gritty o the chemistry

behind L&P can seem like a complex

business, but its essential or techs to

have this knowledge. Here Elaine Watson explains

L&P in simple terms:

Liquid and Powder consists o liquid monomer and

powder polymer. When the two combine they begin

a chemical chain reaction called polymerization

that ends in the creation o a customised plastic

built to it the nail plate. Primer then helps the

overlay bond to the natural nail and prevents liting.

Every manuacturer has its own blend o ingredients

to create its system and its important or a tech to

know that the powder contains key ingredients ound

in the matching liquid. This is why manuacturers will

say, Dont mix systems or products from different

manufacturers. By having like ingredients in the

powder, you create a perectly balanced mix when

the monomer is added.

CheMiStrY Elaine Watson advises on a ew simple rules: Do nd a company that offers a lot of information(education, training, DVDs etc) to help support your

needs. L&P can be pretty technical as youre learning.

Do take it slow and dont over think it. The more you practice the better youll get.

Do practice sanitation! Its key to getting everything safely applied.

Do be meticulous when prepping the natural nail. If you leave any cuticle

bits attached to the nail, they will cause liting.

Dont mix things that arent meant to be mixed. You never know what

kind o chemical reaction can happen and how it can damage your

client. Stick to what the brand gives you.

Dont ever touch the hairs of your brush with your fingers. You will only

contaminate them with oil and risk liting.

D

A big trend that Ive seen take o or L&P

over the last ew years is encapsulation -

made famous, in my book, by Leighton Denny

and his ruby encapsulation manicure, cites celebrity

tech Jamie Nunn. These days you can encapsulate

anything rom sparkles to ruit canes. I use a lot o dierent

encapsulation techniques to create many dierent looks,

probably my most memorable is where I u sed cracked mirror

pieces to create a disco ball kind o aect.

EncaPSulatingtrnd Nail Wrap ncapulaionSp 1

Push back cuticles and apply tip.

Sp 2

Select the correct size wrap.

Sp 3

Apply wrap on one side o the tip along the smile line. Heat

the adhesive side o the wrap this will allow you to stretch it

across the nail. Then heat again rom top o nail and secure

wrap with ingertips.

Sp 4

Cut wrap to ree edge then lip wrap ad apply to another nail

the same size.Sp 5

Now ollow normal steps or acrylic application.

Sp 6

Once wrap is capped with acrylic, shape and bu.

FThere are certain times when application o L&P

needs to be ast on the competition loor is one

of them! Rather than rushing though, choose a

product that works aster so you dont have to. Check out

Competition Formula 3000 by OPI. This ast-setting system glides

on smooth and sets ast. Plus, you can get it in Ultimate White

OPIs whitest ever white, or super crisp, bright smile lines.

Or try the new Premium Blend Acrylic Powder and Primerless Liquid

rom The Edge. New to its range o L&P products, this powder is

a medium to ast-set so its a good choice or those looking or a

speedy product. Its available in pink and clear and the primerless

acrylic liquid - Fix - has an advanced adhesive ormulation,

making the use o primer optional, thus saving even more time.

top ip for pding up applicaion: Us e a large Kolinsky brush such as Star Nail by United

Beautys The Major to grab larger beads o acrylic and

perect three-bead application. Auum Schrdr, UBP

Don t cut corners on prep to speed up the process.

While it may save you time on todays service itll cost you

later when you have to ile liting during your ill service.

eai Was, Sar nai

A nail artist can practice a two-bead application. One bead

or the smile line and one or the pink. This will speed up

application. l A Hdrs, ei Bau

Tempe rature affects the curing rate of acrylic. Heat and

oxygen are the initiators or polymerisation. I your client

has cold hands, massage them to warm them up so your

acrylic cures quicker. Auum Schrdr, UBP

aStImagecourtesyofCND

oS & dontS

1 2 3

4 5 6

>>

Imagecourtesy

One o the beauties

o acrylic is that i a

particular colour o powder doesnt

quite match your clients skin tone,

you can mix the powder colours to

achieve the perect shade. Its as

simple as taking an empty jar and

mixing the powders. I recommend using

one size o mini spoon and keeping a

recipe o parts, enthuses Elaine Watson.

And remember, make a note o the perect

mix ratio or your client so you can recreate

it again next time.

Custom blending became a necessity in our

market to create the best, most natural looking nail

enhancement, continues Lee-Anne Henderson, director

o educational sales & distributor relations at Entity Beauty.

Custom blending is really like picking the perect oundation

or the ace and companies like Entity have taken the guesswork

out o custom blending by oering powders like Nudit Warm and NuditCool Pink. These powders are corrective powders designed to hide laws in

the natural nail and extend a natural nail

bed just like a great pair o heels extends

the look o a womans leg. The best

part about these powders is that when a

client comes back or a retouch the nail

artist only needs to apply a thin coating

in the area that has grown out and

Nudit blends perectly into the existing

powder. No need or smile lines every visit.

This makes a salon visit shorter and easier

or the nail artist.

Nu.Oh oers a resh twist on skin tone

matching. Its Glitter Cover Foundation Series

o acrylic powders is available in 12 colours

and can be used to create that perect

colour match to skin tone but with a subtle

addition o sparkle.


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ProfeSSionalsystems

I have to admit I love gel polish as a inishing

top coat over all my enhancements,

explains Jamie Nunn. This is

something I may be criticised or

and a lot o techs will say its a lazy

choice, but or me it works.

Yes its nice to buff an enhancement

to a high shine, but in my opinion

why is it lazy to get the perect

shape to your nail and then seal

it with a gel top coat? Yes it can

leave a ridge at the cuticle i not

applied correctly but with a bit o

care when applying my gel top

coat I manage to achieve a perect

high gloss seal on my enhancements.

I guess its just a case o each to their

own but my current avourites are OPIs

Axxium Top Coat and Nubars UV Cure

Top Coat. I also think that when doing

encapsulation a gel top coat gives

an extra dimension and really makes the

encapsulated surface pop!

Try using Entity One Gel Top Coat to seal

your L&P enhancements, recommends

Lee Anne Henderson. It will skip all o

the iling steps to get a high shine.

Just one ile is all you need. Finish the

enhancement with the 180-grit Refiner

le and dont worry about the scratches,

the Top Gel will ill those in and give

the perect high shine that lasts

three weeks. Its easy to ile oand has no sticky layer to remove

ater curing in a gel lamp or two

quick minutes.

Never underestimate the power o colour.

Its hot on nails all year round and L&P doesnt

just have to mean pink & white. Use imagery in your salon to

show the eects you can get with coloured powders and get

clients excited about having beautiul bright enhancements.

The EzFlow Gemstones collection oers bold and brightpowders that are sure to get clients excited.

For serious impact, both Salonserve and Proessionails also

oer a super range o coloured powders to bring L&P to lie.

G

Hot colour

Its important, when advising your client on

choosing L&P as their nail enhancement,

that they understand they must either return to

you or inills or have the acrylic proessionally removed.

As a tech, this is one o the greatest advantages o acrylic it guarantees a return visit possibly many return visits

i the client decides to keep her nails and continue

with inills.

Inills are necessary every two-three weeks depending on

the growth o your clients nails. The aster her nails grow

the more requently shell need to come or a rebalance,

explains Elaine Watson. A normal ill shouldnt take more

than an hour, but i it is taking less than hal an hour that

is too short. There is too much prep work and sanitation to

take less than hal an hour.

For inills, prep the nail as you normally would, adds

Kelly Limbrick o UBP. File away the shine and prime theexposed natural nail. Using a smaller brush such as Star

Nails by United Beautys The Minor, apply one bead o

acrylic in Zone 3 and careully blend with the existing

overlay beore inishing the service as normal.

InfillS

el toP coat

Imagecourtes

yofEzFlow

>>

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ProfeSSionalsystems

MAlongside inills, its important that yourclient is aware o how to care or herenhancements, says Autumn Schroeder oUnited Beauty. Be sure to discuss homecare

with your client. They should wear gloves when doing

housework or gardening, apply cuticle oil daily and use

non-acetone remover i they want to change their nail

polish. Plus, always advise your client to return i they want

to remove their extensions. Picking or breaking o extensions

can damage the natural nail.

I they dont ollow a regular maintenance programme

clients can cause damage to the nail plate such as

wearing them too long, which not only looks tacky, but it

causes too much stress on the natural nail, adds session

tech Trish Lomax.

When your client is ready or removal, begin

by iling away the top layer o the extension to

make it more porous, concludes Kelly Limbrick.

Then soak the nails in acetone. For quicker

removal, try soaking a nail wipe in acetone and

placing it directly on the nail and wrapping the

nail in oil.

For an easy option, try Magis L&P removal

oils, which can be soaked in the relevant

solution and wrapped securely around the

nail or quick and convenient removal.

aintenance

KKnowledge is the key to success with liquid & powder, which

is why training is so important. Having a deep understanding

o how the system works and the correct way to prepare the

natural nail means youll achieve perect enhancements every

time. L&P is widely regarded as the most challenging enhancement system to

master, however once perected, application and maintenance o the system

becomes quicker, creating abulous results.

Palms Extra and Nubar provide in-depth,

tailored courses to suit all levels

o learner. For beginners, the

companies dedicate three days o training with days one and two held consecutively

and day three a minimum o two weeks ater. This allows students the opportunity to

take the products away and practice. Only by practising in their own time will they

encounter problems and dierent situations, which their trainer can help with.

We like our students to return armed with questions, iring their passion or the

industry, comments brand manager Kathryn Reeve. We also offer a selection of

product conversion courses, as well as advanced workshops.

Liting is one o the most

common complaints with

acrylic - its when the product

comes away rom the nail plate.

There are two common reasons or liting,

explains Elaine Watson. Either your prep work

wasnt done properly or the L&P ratio was

off (too wet or too dry). There are other less

common reasons like contaminated liquid or

brush, but it usually comes down to either o

the aorementioned.

Some clients are more prone to liting than

others, adds Anna Germaine. Be sure to cover

the ollowing points:

Remove all non-living tissue from the nail plate

and cuticle area using a metal cuticle pusher

beore application.

Gently buff the surface of the nail with a 240-grit

le in the direction o the nail growth (never bu

across the nail).

Apply a good nail dehydrator with a lint-free pad

using a gentle scrubbing action. Take particular

care around the sidewalls and cuticle area.

The nails should have a slight chalky appearance. Apply primer to the nail plate - avoid contact

with the surrounding skin.

When applying acrylic to the nails take care not

to touch the skin around the nails.

Lifting

Scratchs L&P experts give their reasons why i

youre thinking about dabbling in acrylic, you

should just go or it

Long, strong nails are desired by women all over the world, and liquid

& powder overlays and extensions are the astest way to get them.

Suzi Wiss-Fischma, oPI

Recent years have seen major developments within the nail

industry and a huge explosion in the number o products

Javailable on the L&P market. Colours have also played a big

role with more and more techs looking to experiment with

products and design. Kahr Rv, nubar

Acrylic nails are the most common orm o nail enhancement in

the salon. This system is the strongest, providing durable and perect

shaped nails, ideal or instant length, clients who have abnormal

shaped nails and chronic nail biters. trish lmax, sssi ch

Being the strongest o the enhancement systems means that L&P

oten suits more heavy-handed clients and those that may suer

with any heat sensitivities as unlike the gel system, L&P doesnt

make use of a UV lamp. Kahr Rv, nubar

uSt go for it

nowledge

>>

Trainingat NubarUK


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ProfeSSionalsystemsrofeSSionalsystems

I preer to use liquid and

powder to other systems or nail art

ecause I can be quicker, and I ind it more detailed

nd deined than gel, explains top tech Gemma

ambert. I also love the contrast o doing gel nail

esigns like marbling then doing acrylic art on top -

ooks great because o the dierence in textures.

Another eect I love is or my clients nails to be glossy and my

crylic 3D art to be matte - it makes it stand out so much more.

also like the act I can pick up many colours on my brush at the

ame time with L&P so the 3D work looks even more detailed!

&P is a great medium or encapsulating nail art, agrees Elaine

atson. It has enough strength that adding some glitter or bits o art

ont risk the nail strength (but keep in mind you never want to have

ore art pieces than acrylic in your nail. Keep it balanced so the nail

strong). It also doesnt take a lot of acrylic to cover over the tops of

e pieces to prevent them poking through.

e Nubar Innity acrylic range oers a huge choice o coloured

owders including neons and pastels perect or nail art. Plus, these

an be mixed with Nubars Glitter Jewels or super sparkle. All the Innity

esign powders contain optical enhancers, which inhibit colour ading

nd yellowing and are triple sited so application is easier and results

e smoother, meaning less ling. Innity High Perormance Liquid is

so boosted with optical enhancers or clear, vibrant nails.

For all out sparkle art, take a look at the Nu.OhBling Bling acrylics. There are our dierent kits

in the set, each with 12 glitter powders with

various sizes o glitter in neon, hologram and

metallic shades.

I youre ater some instant nail art, check

out Proessionails pre-made acrylic lowers,

perect or embellishing designs and

adding 3D to nails.

Nail art

The chemical odour associated with

L&P is caused by the raw ingredient

called ethyl methacrylate. This is the

main component ound in acrylic liquid,

explains Anna Germaine.

In order or traditional L&P to cure, the

liquid must evaporate, which causes

the vapours in the air that you can

smell, continues Elaine Watson.

A simple solution to helping

combat odours is having the right

disposal system. Using metal trash

cans with a lip top lid that seals

shut will keep vapours on used

paper contained. Expose open

liquid only during application

and dispose o letover liquid

into the bin. I like to pour it into

my paper towel and tie it in a

plastic bag beore tossing it

in the bin. There are also

units you can purchase to

help eliminate odours.

Some attach to your nail table,

while others are ree standing

in your business to clean the air.

You could opt for an odour-free system. Clarit from OPI is

odour-ree, developed as a spa ormula or environments

that need to be ree rom chemical smells. Clarit Curing

Resin eliminates moist surface residue for fast finishing and

lets you apply the product the same as traditional acrylics.

Ensuring good quality air or sta and customers is essential

or any salon. When purchasing your nail desk, why not opt

or one with a built-in iltration system. Salonserves extraction

table not only looks stylish, but has a built-in extraction

system to help take both odour and dust out o the air.

Odour Pink & whites are arguably the most requested style oracrylic enhancements and the NSI Attraction acrylic system isspecially created to achieve vibrant customised pink & white

nail enhancements. Its tri-polymer sculpting powders are designed

or eortless workability and its pigment-enriched to allow customisation or

each client. Attraction Nail Liquid with its non-yellowing, cross-linking sculpting

monomer, delivers strength and fexibility to the nail while Attraction Primer, a

non-acid primer, provides maximum strength with low odour.

Fr pik & whi appicai w hs simp sps rm th edg

usig is Scupurd Acric Frch prducs:

Sp 1 - Prepare and prime the nail. Attach a orm.

Sp 2 - Apply Ultra White Acrylic to Zone 1 to create a smile line.

Sp 3 - Apply Pink or Clear acrylic to Zone 2.

Sp 4 - Apply Pink or Clear acrylic to build the apex o the nail.

Sp 5 - Apply Clear or Pink acrylic to Zone 3 ensuring the product

does not come in contact with the surrounding tissue.

Sp 6 - File and shape the nail.

Sp 7 - Smooth, shape and rene the surace to remove any scratches.

Sp 8 - Bu to a high shine and apply nail oil.

Entitys acrylic system, Nudit is another option or perect pink and whites. Its corrective sculpting

powders include a collection o pinks and whites designed to complement any skintone, hide laws

and enhance the natural look o nails or beautiul French manicures. Plus, its two sculpting liquids

provide varying set speeds to match your pace.

P

Oer your clients something really original -

match their acrylic colour perectly to their

outt by creating them a bespoke colour.

For those who want a bright colour mixed

especially or them, check out Star Nails by United Beautys

Perormance Liquid & Powder. Alongside its range o

traditional powders are 13 coloured powders, which can

be custom blended to create colourul extensions and

vibrant nail art to the clients specic needs. Plus, theres

a silver powder that contains glitter, which can be

mixed with any perormance powder.

Another eect you can oer or

something a bit dierent is painting

the reverse o your enhancements,

suggests Jamie Nunn. Its iddly,

QuirkY

Getting the right ratio between liquid and powder canbe tricky and its oten the one thing that puts techs

o using the system. But once you get a eel or it and

master the art o the mix, its not as scary as it rst seems.

But its important to get it right. I you dont work with the correct

ratio mix or your product you may encounter problems, explains

Anna Germaine. Many nail techs wrongly think that working with a

slightly wetter bead will give a smoother surace to the enhancement

and better adhesion. This application will only create more

problems in the long run and produce a weak nail structure

lacking strength and durability. Theres also a greater risk o

unnecessary overexposure to your client. Allergies are more likely

to occur i the consistency is too wet. On the

reverse, a bead that is too dry will produce an

enhancement prone to breakage and liting.

My words o advice when it comes to

liquid & powder are learn how to control

the run,explains Young Nails president

Greg Salo. What I mean by this is i you can

Ratio

1 2

3 4

5 6

7 8

ink & white

>>

but gives another dimension to nails. Most popular is the

red and black reverse Loboutin, where I use black on the

reverse and red on the ront o the nail, recreating the

red-soled Loboutin shoe eect. Impression art

is something Ive been doing lots o lately too.

When creating my nail I wait until the acrylic is hal-set

then create an impression using lace or impression

tools, which are like mini cookie cutters.

Then using a dierent colour I ill this impression.

Once shaped and iled, the impression shows

up with the shape or pattern in the other

colour. This really is a very creative look.

Using lace gives you an almost snakeskin

eect, but you must remember to dip

your lace/impression tool in powder irst to

make sure it doesnt stick in your acrylic.

control the sel-levelling aspectso acrylic, it can work so well to

your advantage. It will prevent you rom playing with

it too much, plus you will be able to apply the product much

aster, he continues. I dont like to think there is a liquid to

powder ratio when it comes to ease o application. Its all about

touch and feel!

Immerse your brush in liquid and wipe out one side while

removing it rom the dappen dish, explains Suzi Weiss-Fischmann,

OPI executive VP & artistic director. Her top tip when trying to get

the ratio right is to, Pick up as much powder as the liquid in the

brush will hold. The acrylic bead should look shiny as the powder

absorbs the liquid. It should not look frosty (dry) or runny.

I youre still having trouble, opt or a product that makes it easy

or you. LCNs Ultima Acrylic has optimal mixing characteristics,

making it ideal or novices as well as proessionals. Using the latest

working techniques and innovative ingredients, this proessional

system is easy-to-apply and sot modeling.

Prssiaisacric wrs

top ip for ion chWhen working on-set the odour o acrylic can be a

problem, so to combat this I always put a ew drops o

monomer onto the pad that I wipe my brush on during

application. This really makes a dierence to h ow the

monomer evaporates into the air and cuts the odour

down dramatically. Jami nu, cbri sssi ch

Sasrvxraciai dsk


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ProfeSSionalsystems

Market your liquid and powder by brand rather then generalising, advises Lee-Anne

Henderson o Entity Beauty. When customers walk into a salon and it says pink and whites,

just like every other salon, it sounds like theyre getting the same thing no matter where they

go and then they do the worst thing ever... they shop based on price!

Be proud o the brands you invest in. Entity Nudit French Enhancements makes me want to

ask... What are Entity Nudit French Enhancements? We need our customers to ask what

we are doing in our salons. This way we give the description the way we want it to be

interpreted. Its what keeps them in your salon - not next door!

When constructing your service menu, consider adding the ollowing:

Pink & White Sculptured Nails

French Tips with Acrylic Overlays

Natural Nail Overlays

Natural Tips with Acrylic Overlays

Coloured Sculptured Nails

Natural Nail Repairs/Maintenance

Extended Pedicure Services with Acrylic

Acrylic Nail Art

Its important to let your clients know all the pros of choosing acrylic for their nails. With IBDs system, adhesion, excellent wear and

durability are just a ew o your main selling points. This strong system will last and stay strong without breaking.

Selling l&P

TiPS or SculPting?

32 Scratch

There are some basic

tools youll need in order

to get started with oering

L&P enhancements. Heres a

selection o ideas

U

>>

tenSilS

Prssiais Bu& Shi Bck7.70 + VAT

Sar nais bUid Bautip Curs7.45 + VAT

Asishig naisAcric Brush #830.99 + VAT

Sasrvtip Curs3.95 + VAT

Prssiais Fi13 + VAT

SasrvKisk Brush11 + VAT

Ive done both through my years, reminisces Elaine Watson.

I started as a tip user. To an untrained (at sculpting) tech this is

much easier. Forms can be intimidating. However, the downside o

tips is the need to replenish the sizes. There were times Id run out o a common size

and need to alter a size larger to work. With sculpting your only inventory is a roll o

your avourite orms. Once trained correctly, there is no ear o not getting a orm

on a bitten nail. Its quite simple regardless o lack o ree edge. I preer sculpting

because I like to encapsulate artwork. By starting with a orm Ive eliminatedunnecessary thickness to my end nail so my nails are much thinner and more

natural looking.

Tips and sculpting orms are both like canvases to paint on, explains Lee-Anne

Henderson. Nail artists should choose what they eel they do best. The only time

I would choose a tip over a orm is or saety. Nail biters oten have exposed skin

and it is never good to sculpt directly on the skin. This causes overexposure and can

cause allergic reactions.

CND Sculpting Liquids are specially designed for sculpting and come in three

dierent types depending on the adhesion levels, durability required and set time or

the custom enhancement:

Retention+ Sculpting Liquid

is a keratin-bonding, cross-linkingsculpting liquid or lit-prone clients.

Radical SolarNail Sculpting

Liquid is a reinorced cross-

linking sculpting

liquid or clients who

are tough on their

enhancements.

Moxie Sculpting

Liquid is a cross-

linking, ast-set

sculpting liquid that

sets up to 50% faster than

traditional sculpting liquids.

I you preer to use tips,

which can help to speed up

application, check out Star Nails

by United Beautys pre-blended

Revelation Tips.


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ProfeSSionalsystems

ContACtSASP/Sa Sa Srvics T: 0800 980 9961

Asishig nais T: 0131 661 6899CnD/Sw Squard T: 0845 210 6060Cucci eurp/Sar nai IraiaT: 0115 9753 656ei/th Bau ParrshipT: 0113 249 7025ezFw/IBD/Gra IT: 01827 280 080lCn/Bau Ccps I T: 01273 837 302Magis T: 07884 268 444nu.oh/Afii nai & Bau ldT: 0141 561 9861nSI UKT: 0161 788 2860nubar/Pams exra T: 0800 252 172oPI/la Whi ld T: 01923 240 010Prssiais/Rjuv UKT: 07544 802 444Sasrv T: 0800 0181 171th edg nai & BauT: 01256 840 840trd nai Wraps T: 02890 662 080UBP/Sar nais T: 01536 463 350

I youre just starting

out with L&P then easy

workability is likely to be top

o your list when choosing a

product to work with. Look or a product with

a wetter working ratio. This will make it more

orgiving in application. Absolute by OPI is

not only a wetter ratio making it easier to work

with, but it comes in a range o colours or matching to skintone,

plus a Makeover Pink or great coverage, allowing you to elongate

the natural nail bed or more elegant looking nails.

The most revolutionary aspect o Astonishing Nails monomer is its optimal

balance between cure and set time, explains its UK distributor Lukasz

Loszczyk. Controlled curing in this product means its developed to oer

you enough time to create the perect smile line and also enough time

to perect your C-curve. The Astonishing Nails Powders also oer superior

control and expert workability. The product does not run into the cuticles

and oers a creamy, controlled application, while its colour control technology means

theres consistent shading with each o the powders in each o its seven shades.

I youre looking or a great

value kit then ASP Aspire could

be the L&P system or you. Its

pricing is very competitive with Acrylic Liquid

from 9.99 + VAT (60ml) and Acrylic Powder

from 9.99 + VAT too. Plus, ASPs system

requires no primer, thus saving another cost.

Why not choose rom one o its three tailored

kits: Try Me Kit 12.99 + VAT, Student Kit

29.99 + VAT or Sculpture Kit 19.99 + VAT.

Value WorkabilitY

Yellowing

Thirty years ago, CND led the nail industry with the first non-yellowing

liquid & powder cross-linked monomer, states Gigi Rouse, CND UK.

But why do acrylic nails yellow in the irst place? Enhancement technologyhas evolved rom single-linked to cross-linked to a reinorced cross-

linked molecular structure known as Interpenetrating Polymer Networks

(IPN) technology, explains Samantha Sweet, CND UK. Single-linked

polymers have a linear molecular structure. The molecular chains line up

in single rows. These products are inherently weak and will continue to

break-down with age. As a consequence, this type o polymer can lead

to poor colour stability i.e. yellowing, breakages and poor

adhesion, she continues. Yellowing can also

come rom very poor prep o the natural nail and

rom dirty unkempt brushes. Once liquid gets into

the erule and is not cleaned out it will stay in there

and go yellow, which can also cause yellowing o

an enhancement!

IPN technology is unique to CND and can be

found in its Retention+, Radical and Moxie

Sculpting Liquids three dierent monomers

to help you deliver the results your clients want,

whatever they want, she concludes.

ZWhen applying L&P, consider the nail in zones, concludes KellyLimbrick. This will help you build the strongest possible structurewhile making sure the inished nail is natural in its appearance.Z 1

This is the ree edge o the nail. It should be thin at the very edge and start to

thicken towards Zone 2. The main clue that a nail is alse is the thickness o the ree

edge. A natural nail is thin and sharp when you look down the barrel and this should

be achieved with a nail enhancement - along with an even C-curve.

Z 2

This is the weakest part o the nail. Its where the tip and the natural nail meet. The stress

area is where the overlay should be at its thickest. It is the meeting point o the twoarches - the upper arch and the C-curve, which will give the nished nail its strength.

Z 3

The cuticle area, like Zone 1, should be thin and blended into the nail not only

to avoid an ugly step as the nail grows, but to avoid liting o the overlay as the

natural nail is at its most fex ible in this area as the keratinisation process is not quite

complete. The overlay in this area should also have a ree margin around it so that

product does not come into contact with the sot tissue. Any area touching the sot

tissue will cause immediate liting o the overlay.

oneS

That extra bit o attention to

excellence is as important

as the rest o the service.

Jamie Nunn explains why.

A great tip I learned rom Ciat creator

Charlotte Straughn, is whenever Im

shaping enhancements, lip the clients

hand over so their knuckles are acing

down then bend the inger orward and

look down the barrel o the nail. I know this

sounds simple, but it really does make a

dierence to check all the angles o your

nails. When striving or perection you really

need to cover all bases so I check side

proile, down the barrel o the nail in both

straight on and reverse and I also lay my

ile on the nail so I can check the shapeo my apex. It probably sounds like a lot o

aing around, but ater many years o this

process it means all my enhancements are

perectly shaped time and time again.

Xtra attention

june issue for scratch mag

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