jones stock falls on downgrade/2 battle in beauty/10 … · 2015-02-28 · export ban: the house...

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JONES STOCK FALLS ON DOWNGRADE/2 BATTLE IN BEAUTY/10 Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • July 14, 2006 • $2.00 PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY MICHELLE EDGAR Juicy Juice NEW YORK — Juicy Couture, one of the hottest apparel brands, has set its sights on the fragrance market, with the August launch of its first signature women’s scent. Estimates of the fragrance’s first-year global sales range as high as $75 million at retail. For more, see page 6. WWD FRIDAY Beauty See Weber, Page 12 Next for Donna Karan: Ex-PVH Chief Weber Tops List for CEO Post By Marc Karimzadeh NEW YORK — Donna Karan might have found her new man. Mark Weber, the former chief executive officer of Phillips-Van Heusen, is believed to be the front-runner to become the next president and ceo of Donna Karan International, replacing Jeffry Aronsson, who will be leaving the company to pursue other interests. According to sources, Karan has an approval clause for a new ceo in her contract with DKI parent LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. She is said to have met with and approved Weber. The hire would complete an extensive

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Page 1: JONES STOCK FALLS ON DOWNGRADE/2 BATTLE IN BEAUTY/10 … · 2015-02-28 · EXPORT BAN: The House has unanimously approved a reso-lution to extend a ban on all exports from Burma,

JONES STOCK FALLS ON DOWNGRADE/2 BATTLE IN BEAUTY/10Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • July 14, 2006 • $2.00

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Juicy JuiceNEW YORK — Juicy Couture, one of the hottest

apparel brands, has set its sights on the

fragrance market, with the August launch of its

fi rst signature women’s scent. Estimates of the

fragrance’s fi rst-year global sales range as high

as $75 million at retail. For more, see page 6.

WWDFRIDAYBeauty

See Weber, Page 12

Next for Donna Karan:Ex-PVH Chief Weber Tops List for CEO PostBy Marc KarimzadehNEW YORK — Donna Karan might have found her new man.

Mark Weber, the former chief executive officer of Phillips-Van Heusen, is believed to be the front-runner to become the next president and ceo of Donna Karan International, replacing Jeffry Aronsson, who will be leaving the company to pursue other interests.

According to sources, Karan has an approval clause for a new ceo in her contract with DKI parent LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. She is said to have met with and approved Weber.

The hire would complete an extensive

Page 2: JONES STOCK FALLS ON DOWNGRADE/2 BATTLE IN BEAUTY/10 … · 2015-02-28 · EXPORT BAN: The House has unanimously approved a reso-lution to extend a ban on all exports from Burma,

WWD.COM2 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 14, 2006

GENERALDonna Karan is said to have found a new chief executive offi cer — Mark Weber, former ceo of Phillips-Van Heusen.

Shares of Jones Apparel Group plunged 5.7 percent after Merrill Lynch downgraded the stock, citing “diminished prospects of a sale.”

EYE: Amy Sacco begged Molaroid Soloman for the glitter ball at the Cal-vin Klein dinner in London, as “The Hustle” played on the sound system.

BEAUTY: Juicy Couture, one of the hottest and fastest-growing fashion brands, is poised to make a splash in the fragrance arena.

Estée Lauder Cos. is expected to name Jane Lauder and Jim Nevins to vital roles on the new Clinique team in an announcement today.

Andrea Robinson, president of Prescriptives, plans to take the brand into the future by reacquainting consumers with its past.

Glenn Close has been named this year’s Entertainment Industry Founda-tion ambassador to Saks’ 2006 Key to the Cure program.

124667

14

WWDFRIDAYBeauty

● LAUDER SETTLES WITH IRS: The Estée Lauder Cos. has reached a settlement with the Internal Revenue Service on the fi rm’s federal income tax returns for the fi scal years ended June 30, 1998 through June 30, 2001. The settlement resulted in an in-crease to the fi rm’s fi scal 2006 income tax provision, and a corre-sponding decrease in fi scal 2006 net earnings, of $46 million, or 21 cents per diluted common share. In anticipation of the settlement, Lauder paid the U.S. Treasury about $70 million on June 30, 2006, refl ecting the additional taxes and interest accrued during the pe-riod. Separately, during the fourth quarter, the fi rm received a fa-vorable adjustment of $11 million in connection with repatriation of foreign earnings through intercompany dividends, as required by the American Jobs Creation Act of 2004, which offset the tax charge by $11 million, resulting in a decrease in fi scal net earn-ings of about $35 million, or 16 cents per diluted common share.

● EXPORT BAN: The House has unanimously approved a reso-lution to extend a ban on all exports from Burma, also known as Myanmar, for another year. The measure also extends a framework to allow Congress to consider imposing sanctions in 2007 and 2008. President Bush signed a bill banning all imports — the bulk of which were garments — in July 2003 in response to a crackdown by the country’s military dictatorship on the elected opposition. Deteriorating human rights conditions had prompted U.S. retail-ers and importers to voluntarily halt business with Burma, where the military has invested in garment production.

In Brief

Classifi ed Advertisements.............................................................15

WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY-RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.VOLUME 192, NO. 8. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad-

ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad-ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications,

Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and

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Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center.

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Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, Nor th Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four

weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other

U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would

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WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU-SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR-ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK,

OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED

To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi [email protected], using the individual’s name.

“It took me 15 years to get someone interested, and now we have two major names who want the job.’’

— Departing CFDA president Stan Herman on

Diane von Furstenberg and Joseph Abboud

Quote of the Week

Analyst’s Outlook Hits Jones Shares

Merrill Lynch Downgrades Wal-Mart

By Vicki M. Young

NEW YORK — Shares of Jones Apparel Group dropped 5.7 percent Thursday after Merrill Lynch downgraded the stock, citing “diminished pros-pects of a sale and the related likelihood of weaker fundamentals.”

Sources said if a deal does happen, it would like-ly be with Bain Capital, which has emerged as the top, if only, contender because two other potential buyers are believed to have dropped out. Shares of Jones were down $1.77 to close at $29.49 Thursday in New York Stock Exchange trading. More than two million shares traded hands, compared with an average trading volume of 796,827 shares.

Bain has been involved as a potential bidder for the $5 billion Jones Apparel Group since the early stages of the sale process. However, there is no guarantee that a deal with Bain can be worked out. Some investment bankers familiar with the Jones prospectus — as well as private equity sources — said there was an equal likelihood that a deal with Bain would fall apart.

Sources cited as key issues the margin pressures for the moderate brands sold at the department store level, as well as a tightening of overall market conditions in terms of the ability to fi nance mergers and acquisitions. Many private equity shops with money to spend, feeling pressure to get deals done while they can, are eyeing other targets.

According to sources in the investment communi-ty, New York-based Thomas H. Lee Capital, the new fi rm started by Thomas H. Lee, the founder of the Boston-based legendary buyout fi rm Thomas H. Lee Partners, is said to be in pursuit of the bridal group being sold by Federated Department Stores Inc., which includes David’s Bridal. Cerberus Capital Management, which had dropped out of early bids for Jones, is said to be eyeing Mother’s Work, which is described as a “recession-proof” business.

In addition, the prospectus on Eddie Bauer is due out within the week. VF Corp. is said to be setting its sights on Bauer. And Perry Ellis International — in conjunction with two private equity firms, Icahn Management and possibly Cerberus — is believed to be the other contender for Bauer. However, men’s wear fi rm Joseph A. Banks may be planning a play for the outdoor life-

style fi rm, investment sources said.Jones in May received three second-round bids

averaging $32 per share, which was $1 to $2 lower than the share’s trading average at the time. Since then the stock has hovered in the $31 to $32 range. Investors, however, interpreted the Merrill Lynch report as concluding that the Jones auction pro-cess is at a stalemate.

Merrill Lynch analyst Virginia Genereux wrote in a research note that there is major uncertainty about the value of Jones’ apparel brands, such as Gloria Vanderbilt and Norton McNaughton, “given their recent deterioration and the uncertain out-look for ‘undifferentiated’ third-party wholesalers in the traditional department store channel.”

She downgraded the stock to sell from neutral.Market and fi nancial sources said the moder-

ate business has been underperforming in the de-partment store channel this year. Sources close to the company said Jones has been shutting some of its offi ces, as well. Overseas offi ces in China and Hong Kong are said either to have closed or to be in the process of closing.

The art department in Bristol, Pa., which pro-duces the look books that are shown to buyers, has been shuttered, said a source familiar with the company and its Bristol operation. The entire unit is expected to be closed by May 2007, the source said, adding that there is already a “For Sale” sign outside the Bristol headquarters.

Jones, through the help of an outside consul-tant, has been reevaluating its operations since 2004. A Jones spokeswoman declined comment.

Although cost-cutting will most likely help the company and boost its valuation, another problem may be harder for the apparel giant to resolve. Sources close to the New York and Bristol opera-tions said many of the company’s employees are discontent, partly because the sale process has dragged on, but also because company executives are reportedly not providing any information or updates on how the talks have been proceeding.

One source in New York said some employees are seeking jobs elsewhere rather than run the risk of losing their positions in a merger. The source close to the Bristol operation said some workers, such as senior patternmakers, are looking to take early re-tirement rather than face an uncertain future.

By Sharon Edelson

NEW YORK — Wal-Mart shares fell 2.2 percent on Thursday after Merrill Lynch downgraded the re-tailers’ stock from “buy” to “neu-tral,’ citing sales trends, the pres-sure of high gas prices and the impact on consumer spending.

In a research note titled, “Ben-tonville, We Have a Problem,” Merrill Lynch analyst Virginia Genereux wrote, “We have two primary concerns. Recent sales trends, both in the form of falter-ing new door productivity and weak comp-store sales, call into long-term question the rate of sustainable top-line growth in the core Wal-Mart store division in the U.S.”

Slower sales growth threat-ens Bentonville, Ark.-based Wal-Mart’s ability to expand op-erating margins, Genereux said, noting that fatter margins are needed for improvement in re-turn on invested capital. Equally troubling, the analyst said, are the macroeconomic trends af-fecting lower-income consum-ers, including rising energy pric-es, increased non-discretionary spending commitments and mid-dling job and wage growth. Wal-Mart’s comps are more highly correlated with gas prices than those of any other retailer.

“We continue to believe that efforts to revitalize the U.S. stores, through better merchan-dise, store layout and customer experience will, at some point,

bear fruit,” Genereux wrote. “But this is a diffi cult environ-ment in which to execute those changes, and earnings could face more pressure in the intermedi-ate term. And as we are seeing with many hardlines retailers, a reasonable valuation based on even reduced estimates provides little in the way of stock price support.”

Wal-Mart officials declined to comment. However, a spokes-woman pointed to a rebuttal from Buckingham Research in which analyst Daniel Binder wrote, “New store productivity may have slipped a bit in June, but it isn’t falling off a cliff and we have seen some modest fl uc-tuation in the past only to see it rebound. Further, if a period of slower new store productivity is setting in, it should actually push

management closer to cutting square footage growth, which will be interpreted as a positive. Lower store cannibalization should translate into better new store productivity and we think square footage cuts could come as early as next year.”

Buckingham also downplayed the idea of gross margin erosion in light of the increase in global sourcing and the expenses that Wal-Mart still hopes to trim in the U.S.

The retailer’s stock “is a good buy again recognizing that we still may be a little early,” ac-cording to Buckingham.

Wal-Mart shares closed at $44.16 on Thursday, down 99 cents, in New York Stock Exchange trad-ing. A total of 26.3 million shares were traded compared with aver-age volume of 11.9 million.

Page 3: JONES STOCK FALLS ON DOWNGRADE/2 BATTLE IN BEAUTY/10 … · 2015-02-28 · EXPORT BAN: The House has unanimously approved a reso-lution to extend a ban on all exports from Burma,

More than just beautiful manicures, Sally Hansen is creating profitable new sales opportunities across a range of beauty-care categories. Among them:

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Page 4: JONES STOCK FALLS ON DOWNGRADE/2 BATTLE IN BEAUTY/10 … · 2015-02-28 · EXPORT BAN: The House has unanimously approved a reso-lution to extend a ban on all exports from Burma,

“Come on, gimme that glitter ball!” Amy Sacco begged London man-about-town Molaroid Soloman at the Calvin Klein dinner in London Wednesday night, as Seventies classic “The Hustle” fi ltered over

the sound system. What she wanted so badly was a disco ball the size of a grapefruit that Soloman regularly wears around his neck at parties — and she was in luck, as he gladly handed it over.

The two were at restaurant Locanda Locatelli to toast designer Francisco Costa and his men’s wear counterpart Italo Zucchelli, along with co-hosts Elle Macpherson and Natalia Vodianova. Their guests, including Bianca Jagger, Elizabeth Saltzman, Bryan Adams, Jade Parfi tt, Maggie Grace, Eddie Redmayne, Lily Cole, Jamie Dornan, Jasmine Guinness and Bay Garnett, downed Taittinger champagne in the restaurant’s tiny bar before sitting down to plates of scallops, shrimp and zucchini risotto, and steak with salsa verde.

The evening was one big love-in for the designers. “These guys brought me back into the

Calvin Klein fold!” said Macpherson. “They offered to dress me for the gala at the Met last year, and I rediscovered the brand.” Saltzman, who was wearing a red silk strapless number by Costa, said, “If this dress looks familiar, it is. I have 11 of them hanging in my closet — all in different colors. What can I say? They’re fabulous.”

Earlier that week, Costa and Zucchelli were feted at the Paris residence of the American Ambassador to France, Craig Roberts Stapleton. Vodianova, just a guest this time, revealed that like mother, like daughter — Neva, her three-month-old daughter, will be a cover girl for the October issue of French Vogue. Not that Neva had to work that hard, since she spent the shoot cradled in her mother’s arms. “She’s not taking my place just yet,” Vodianova joked.

WWD.COM4 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 14, 2006

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Lily Cole

SOUTHAMPTON, N.Y. — There are certain phrases one doesn’t expect to hear from the mouth of a high-profi le European heiress. “Massages make me nervous” is one of them, and yet there it is, uttered by Katharina Otto-Bernstein, whose family founded the German mail order giant Otto Group. The 38-year-old mother of two also disdains makeup artists “fi ddling” with her face and going to the hair salon (no offense to her stylist, Henry).

While most women of a similar ilk say these kinds of things out of false modesty, one can’t help but believe Otto-Bernstein.

“She couldn’t have less patience for anything that has to do with woman stuff,” says her friend Vanessa von Bismarck. “She’s a tomboy.”

Indeed, the buxom blonde looks perfectly at ease sitting on the veranda of the Southampton home she decorated herself, wearing a turquoise cotton T-shirt, no makeup, her wet hair pulled back. She appears much more herself than she did the night before, all gussied up for the Parrish Art Museum’s annual summer party.

Otto-Bernstein cochaired the evening and has been a longtime supporter of the museum, and she is well ensconced in the art scene — her husband, Nathan, is a gallerist, and her sister runs the private Goetz Collection gallery in Munich. Otto-Bernstein is also a fi lmmaker and this Sunday will screen “Absolute Wilson,” a documentary on Robert Wilson, in Southampton.

She spent nearly seven years trailing the avant-garde artist, who maintains an impossible schedule, jetting from Seville to Milan to Copenhagen to Thailand for his various projects. “There are a lot of shots of him from the back,” she laughs.

The project covers Wilson’s life, including his childhood in Waco, Tex., his work as a “movement” therapist, his attempted

suicide and, fi nally, his present success directing surreal performances all across Europe. “He told me about his muses, who were the deaf-mute child Raymond Andrews and the brain-damaged child Christopher Knowles. What more fascinating muses can you have that aren’t the lover or the mother?” Otto-Bernstein asks. “But I really had no clue what he did in the Sixties, and I also had no idea how walled-off he would be.”

Wilson, 64, was born with a disorder that impaired his speech and development. He also suffered a strained relationship with his father, then the mayor of Waco. “His father was very sporty; he wasn’t sporty at all. His father was a hunter; he loved animals, couldn’t ever pull the trigger. He was sort of everything his father didn’t want in a son,” Otto-Bernstein says. “When you see his work, there’s always the dominant father and the distant child.”

It was a study in contrast to Otto-Bernstein’s own family, a close-knit group of fi ve children. “We’re very intact as a family,” she says. “My father is probably one of the most down-to-earth people I know.” The 97-year-old Werner Otto still treks daily to the offi ce, though her brother Michael has taken over as chief executive offi cer. It’s clear that workaholism runs in the family. Otto-Bernstein has held a job since she graduated from Columbia University’s fi lm school, including writing a column for German Vogue about life in New York. “I’m a project-driven person,” she says. “I wouldn’t know what to do otherwise with myself.”

Which is to say that she wouldn’t be lunching. “She’s not madly social,” says Debbie Bancroft, godmother to Otto-Bernstein’s young son, Jonathan. “She’s been working on this thing for years, and you can tell. We haven’t seen much of her. She spends her time with real things.”

— Emily Holt

Cinema Verité

Katharina Otto-Bernstein at her Southampton home.

Page 5: JONES STOCK FALLS ON DOWNGRADE/2 BATTLE IN BEAUTY/10 … · 2015-02-28 · EXPORT BAN: The House has unanimously approved a reso-lution to extend a ban on all exports from Burma,

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Page 6: JONES STOCK FALLS ON DOWNGRADE/2 BATTLE IN BEAUTY/10 … · 2015-02-28 · EXPORT BAN: The House has unanimously approved a reso-lution to extend a ban on all exports from Burma,

By Julie Naughton

NEW YORK — Juicy Couture, one of the hottest and fastest-growing fashion brands in the young market, is poised to make a splash in the fragrance arena.

Nine years after Gela Nash-Taylor and Pamela Skaist-Levy launched their fashionable tracksuit line, the Los Angeles duo is getting ready to launch its fi rst signature women’s fragrance with Liz Claiborne Cosmetics. And the proposition is notable — from the unusual depth and variety of the product lineup to the unheard-of length of a three-month-exclusive with Bloomingdale’s, which suggests that the new fragrance will have a pervasive presence throughout the store. Market speculation about the size of the sales target is equally bold. Although executives refused to break out projections or budgets, industry sources estimate that the Juicy Couture fragrance range could generate as much as $75 million at retail worldwide in its fi rst year on counter, with U.S. sales likely to account for 50 to 75 percent of that fi gure. Sources also estimate that at least $10 million will be spent on advertising and pro-motional efforts in the U.S.

Although the Juicy Couture founders have been busy nurturing a small fashion empire, the idea of one day doing a fragrance had been percolating, Nash-Taylor said. “We wanted the world to smell like us — that’s where we started from. We’ve wanted to do a fragrance for a long time, as it was a natural evolution of our brand.”

Juicy Couture, founded in 1997 and purchased by Liz Claiborne Inc. in March 2003 for $47 million, has been expanding for the past three years beyond its signature tracksuits and moving into men’s wear, children’s wear and a host of accessory categories, including shoes, purses, swimwear and watches.

Earlier, Nash-Taylor and Skaist-Levy launched an upscale line, Couture Couture, which includes evenin-gwear, and they are readying a baby line and home prod-ucts. This fall, the fi rst national advertising campaign for the Juicy Couture franchise will break, and more de-velopments are on the horizon — all designed to make the company a billion-dollar brand by 2010.

“The subtitle to everything we do is ‘surprise,’” said Michelle Sanders, vice president and fashion director at Juicy Couture. “In the past, our marketing strategy was doing p.r. and celebrities, which worked well for a long time. In order to grow, though, we understand that we need to get our vision out there, so we decided to advertise.”

While all executives involved declined to comment, industry sources estimated that the Juicy Couture uni-verse now does upward of $300 million at retail — and

the brand’s fi rst fragrance is expected to signifi cantly add to that fi gure.

“This is a Juicy brand; we’re executing their vision,” said Art Spiro, president of Liz Claiborne Cosmetics. “Pam and Gela are like a GPS system — they’re never off course.”

The scent, which Skaist-Levy describes as “like something Barbie might wear,” was concocted by Harry Fremont of Firmenich. “We wanted something that had white fl owers, that was feminine, but also fun and fresh,” said Nash-Taylor. “We didn’t want over-the-top perfumery, just notes that we both love, like tuberose and vanilla and watermelon.” The fi nal result has top notes of watermelon, mandarin, pink passionfruit, bright marigold, fresh green apple, water hyacinth and crushed leaves; a heart of couture tuberose absolute, wild rose and princess lily, and a drydown of caramel crème brulée, vanilla, precious woods and patchouli.

The collection will include a 1-oz. perfume, priced at $300; eau de parfum in a 1-oz. bottle for $50, a 1.7-oz. version for $65 and a 3.4-oz. size for $85, and the pièce de résistance, a 20-oz. size that resembles a traditional fragrance factice, for a whopping $3,000. “Less is not more for us,” said Skaist-Levy. “I think the largest size is essential. It is a visual that’s Juicy.”

Each of the items has slightly different packaging. The 1-oz. perfume, made of crystal with a locket on a cord wound around the bottle’s neck, is in a fold-out, vanity table-like outer box with a mirrored back and a drawer

equipped with a tiny Juicy Couture notebook. The 3.4-oz. and 1.7-oz. sizes are in glass rect-angles with faceted tops and silver-toned Juicy Couture crests, with two charms hung off the bottle necks: a silver-toned J and a gold-toned crown. The 1-oz. travel-size bottle has a metal outer fi nish, with an attached charm of red cherries, which is intended to be added to a charm bracelet; each season the charm will change, noted Spiro. The 20-oz. eau de parfum is a weighted glass rectangle with a faceted top and a silver-toned crest, topped with a bow-

and-crown charm. It also includes an atomizer and an empty 1-oz. bottle in which to decant the fragrance.

Ancillaries include Pacifi c Sea Salt Soak, priced at $55 for 17.6 oz. (also offered in a crystal goblet for $350); Caviar Bath Soak, $55 for 7.5 oz.; Sumptuous Sugar Scrub, $45 for 10 oz.; a 7-oz. candle for $65; a $25 candle snuffer; a $350 candle in a goblet; Frothy Shower Gel, 5.1 oz. for $40; Body Sorbet, 5.1 oz. for $45; Royal Body Crème, 6.7 oz. for $55, and Decadent Dusting Powder, 3.4 oz. for $55.

The fragrance will be launched at Bloomingdale’s in August and will remain there until October. It will enter specialty stores at the end of October, and “a very select group” of department stores at the end of November, said Spiro. By yearend, distribution will number about 600 doors. Globally, it will be available in duty-free stores, and it likely will be launched in the U.K.

Like the fragrance packaging, the advertising — cre-ated by Laird and Partners and photographed by Tim Walker — will include a number of looks. Key to the ef-fort is an eight-page insert that includes four fashion images and four beauty shots; the insert will begin run-ning in September fashion, beauty and lifestyle maga-zines. Single-page ads will alternate between a visual of model Linda Kant with teased-up hair resembling cotton candy, and a shot of tiny dogs tinted in fanciful pastels. The spread advertising was modeled after a vintage Cecil Beaton photograph of debutantes that ap-peared decades ago in Vogue. “We’ve always been ob-sessed with royalty and debutantes,” said Nash-Taylor of the ad’s inspiration. Outdoor advertising in New York and Los Angeles is planned, and the fragrance will also get a socialite-stuffed launch party in the Hamptons in early September, noted Marcy Fisher, vice president of cosmetics marketing at Liz Claiborne.

In addition, fragrances aren’t the only licensed prod-uct the Juicy girls have on tap. “We have watches, sun-glasses and swimwear that are all coming out,” said Nash-Taylor.

The fi rst Manhattan Juicy Couture fl agship opened late last month at 103 Fifth Avenue, and three more lo-cations in the city are planned. Upcoming stores are planned for 11 markets across the U.S., plus Milan and London. By yearend 2007, the plan is to have 40 free-standing units, said Sanders.

Skaist-Levy noted, “We can put things that we love in there and arrange everything exactly the way we like,” the fi nal result being “like California mixed with English royalty,” she said with a laugh.

While some designers modestly say they were sur-prised by their line’s success, the Juicy partners said they expected the response to their line. “We think big,” said Nash-Taylor.

Skaist-Levy noted, “We used ourselves as a test to cre-ate things we wanted to wear — with the clothes, with the fragrance, with everything. We made things we want-ed to wear, not things we thought people should wear.”

Added Nash-Taylor, “[Juicy Couture is] about comfort, and we were part of that revolution of more casual de-signs and L.A. fashion,” she said.

Next on the designers’ wish list is a color cosmetics collection. “We can’t wait, but you need to do one thing at a time,” said Skaist-Levy. “We have been playing around with colors for years.” Added Nash-Taylor, “We used to mix red and black together before there was a

An ad visual for Juicy Couture.

6 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 14, 2006

The Beauty Report

Juicy Couture Bears Fragra

NEW YORK — The Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. is expect-ed to announce today four key executive appoint-ments, two of them involving Jane Lauder and Jim Nevins, who have been named to vital roles on the new Clinique team.

In addition, Beth DiNardo, who has been senior vice president of global marketing at Clinique, is moving to the position of senior vice president and general manager of Rodan + Fields Worldwide and Darphin North America, succeeding Shashi Batra, who left the company. The fourth appointment is Julie Howard, formerly vice president of global product marketing at Clinique, who is moving to se-nior vice president of global marketing and brand development at the BeautyBank division of Lauder.

Howard, whose appointment is effective Sept. 1, will step into an enlarged role and assume the duties previously handled by Lauder, who is mov-

ing to Clinique as senior vice president of global product marketing, effective Aug. 1.

Lauder previously worked at Clinique, rising through a succession of sales and marketing jobs there, before joining the Stila division in 2001 as vice president of marketing, then moving on to BeautyBank in 2003 as vice president of marketing.

Nevins, who was named senior vice president and global creative director at Clinique, effective July 1, has also come home. He was Clinique’s se-nior vice president and creative director from 1992 to 1999. He then moved to Gap Inc. and returned to Clinique in 2001 to become a senior member of the brand’s creative team. Since 2003, he has directed creative development at BeautyBank, overseeing the division’s fi ve brands. He will continue to play a creative role at BeautyBank, while also heading up the creative department at Clinique and reporting to

Jane Lauder and Jim Nevins Join N

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NEW YORK — Andrea Robinson plans to take Prescriptives into the future by reacquainting consumers with its past. The president of the division of the Estée Lauder Cos. has kicked off a campaign stressing the brand’s core strengths — customization and color-printing — which she maintains is even more relevant today than it was when the brand was founded in 1979.

“It’s the remaking of the brand, and we’re going back to who we are. In today’s society, ev-erything’s customized — from music to Starbucks to jeans. Customization is something customers desire,” said Robinson, who became president of Prescriptives and Tom Ford Beauty in March.

“Prescriptives is known as a ‘smart brand’ tar-geting the working woman,” she added.

Prescriptives offers customization in its Custom Blend lip gloss, lipstick, foundation, pressed and loose powder, and now a concealer. The new Custom Blended Concealer, at $32, is designed to allow customers to select their preferred cover-age, fi nish and specifi c skin needs such as fi rming, lifting, moisturizing and line minimizing. It will be launched exclusively in September in Bergdorf Goodman, followed by a full rollout in October.

The concealer’s formula contains light-refl ect-ing particles meant to conceal the appearance of dark circles, imperfections, fi ne lines and wrin-kles. About 25 percent of Prescriptives’ 750 coun-ters — around 200 doors — offer custom blending service. Though Prescriptives is mostly known for its foundations, industry sources indicate that the company expects the custom blend concealer to become 15 percent of the total business.

Prescriptives is also offering, as part of its Colorscope collection, a customizable, refi llable compact that can be fi lled with any combination of 70 eye and cheek shades, ranging from soft and subtle to bold and bright. Magnets keep the shade palettes fi rmly in place in the compact case.

In Prescriptives’ color-printing process, each customer has her skin undertones identifi ed to help her match her skin color and to determine her appropriate shade range.

“It’s going back to the original idea of color-printing and what makes Prescriptives unique in an online era that’s all about ‘having it your way,’” said John Dempsey, global president of the Estée Lauder brand, MAC Cosmetics, Sean John and Prescriptives. “We’re returning to the core bones of the brand and reestab-lishing the Prescriptives heritage with a strong voice. Customization is more relevant today — as relevant, if not more relevant — than it ever was.”

Robinson sees the reintroduction of the brand as an opportunity to target new consumer groups — women ages 28 to 35 and ethnic consumers. “We see this as an opportunity for us to get the colors right for the ethnic consumer,” she added.

Elana Drell Szyfer, Prescriptives vice president of global marketing, said color-printing involves much more than fi nding a personal shade range. “Now we’re trying to educate consumers that it’s not just about the shade, but the effect you want — whether you’re going for a matte or radiant fi nish with a lifting, fi rming skin care opportunity.”

Prescriptives plans to redesign its counters with new visuals to demonstrate the custom blend concept, and add new tester units and dispensing systems. The company also plans to create a new certifi cation program to educate advisers on how they can become “master blenders.” Promotional events designed to reintroduce Prescriptives to customers will be held at point-of-sale in October. The color-printing concept will be high-lighted in an advertising campaign breaking in September in at least two magazines, People and Oprah’s magazine, O. Shot by Michael Thompson, the ad shows a range of skin tones with the question, “Have you been Colorprinted?”

The company hopes the Custom Blend campaign will increase volume by 5 percent in the 200 doors where the service is now offered.

Although company executives would not break out projections, industry sources estimate that the Custom Blend collection will represent $15 million of the Prescriptives business in a year, while the Custom Blend Concealer is representative of 15 percent of the Custom Blend business, about $2 million. Around $3 million will be spent on advertising.

— Michelle Edgar

NEW YORK — In addition to Prescriptives’ Colorprinting and Custom Blend, the company has a full plate of new fall products, including a volumizing mascara and a powder foundation.

Lash Envy Volumizing Mascara, $19, is now being launched. The light formula is blended from silica and a polymer used as an additive to reinforce cement in the construction business. The company asserts that the formula boosts volume by 200 percent. In addition, the dual-bristle brush contains a blend of soft and stiff fi bers, designed to create a more even and uniform application on the lash.

The company will enter the powder foundation market in September with the launch of AnyWear Multi-Finish Powder Foundation, $32.50. Produced in 24 shades, the new compact foundation is designed for maximum fl exibility: When applied wet, it creates a velvety-soft fi nish; when applied dry, it offers a fuller, matte fi nish. “We wanted to spin the idea of coverage toward customization, providing customers with any type of wear for different types of coverage,” said Elana Drell Syzfer, vice president of global marketing.

Another new item, included in the Envious color collection,

is a powder blush called Cheek Silk.All new products will be available at Prescriptives’ full

distribution in 800 doors, including Federated Department Stores Inc., Dillard’s, Nordstrom, Bergdorf Goodman and select Neiman Marcus and Bloomingdale’s stores. The items will also be sold online at prescriptives.com.

Lash Envy Volumizing Mascara will be supported in-store by a vigorous sampling program, which will include a 14-day supply of the mascara, as well as by makeovers focusing on the eyes. Print advertising will appear in newspapers. With any $32.50 purchase of AnyWear Multi-Finish Powder Foundation, consumers will receive a fi ve-item gift-with-purchase. Both products will also be supported by a direct-mail campaign that will be sent to about one million people.

While executives declined to comment on numbers, industry sources estimated that Lash Envy Volumizing Mascara could do $5 million in fi rst-year retail sales, while AnyWear Multi-Finish Powder Foundation could bring in $10 million. About $7 million will be spent on advertising and promotion for both items.

— M.E.

[Chanel] Vamp. We can’t wait to do nail polish.”One potential obstacle has been avoided. The Lancôme

division of L’Oréal has been marketing its hot-selling line of cosmetics products, ignited by the launch of its Juicy Tubes brand in 2000. In 2004, Juicy Couture and Liz Claiborne Licensing Inc. fi led a lawsuit against Lancôme Parfums Et Beauté alleging trademark infringement, trade-mark dilution, unfair competition, and deceptive practic-es. Lancôme currently markets cosmetics under the brand names Juicy Tubes, Juicy Rouge and Juicy Wear, among others. According to court documents, Juicy Couture ob-jected primarily to Lancôme’s use of Juicy Wear, arguing that it was confusingly similar to the apparel brand.

The bulk of the case was concluded in April. The court said that Lancôme had the right to continue marketing its “Juicy” products and that they did not infringe on Juicy Couture’s trademark registrations, which are mostly for

apparel. As for Juicy Couture’s plans to expand into the cosmetics market, the company’s rights to extend its brand into cosmetics were not in question during the lawsuit. In her opinion, U.S. District Judge Denise Cote (Manhattan) specifi ed that this particular lawsuit was not the occa-sion to address Juicy Couture’s entry into the category. No countersuit was fi led by Lancôme, and to date all that re-mains to be decided before the outcome of the lawsuit is fi nalized are some procedural questions.

Meanwhile, there are other potential fragrances on the horizon. “Fragrance is like color — it changes your mood,” said Skaist-Levy, who said she and Nash-Taylor are plan-ning an entire portfolio of scents, including a men’s scent that she promises “won’t be overbearing.” And the next women’s fragrance will be “musky, fl irty and more sensual, but not too perfumey,” said Nash-Taylor.

“Who knows, we might even do a dog fragrance,” said Nash-Taylor. “Why shouldn’t the whole world get Juicy?”

— With contributions from Liza Casabona

WWD.COM7WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 14, 2006

WWD.COM

ance Fruit Prescriptives Goes Back to the Future

Readying a Full Slate of Fall LaunchesNew Clinique TeamLynne Greene, Clinique’s global president.

While asserting that Nevins “has an intuitive under-standing of the Clinique consumer,” Greene pointed out that he was the one responsible for the conceptual think-ing and creative work on Clinique’s hit fragrance, Happy, nine years ago. She characterized his addition to the team as “very important.” Meanwhile, she also praised Lauder, whom Greene described as a smart, strategic thinker who “will bring a great deal to Clinique.”

In building her team, Greene said the Clinique man-tra is to cherish the past while inventing the future, and she sees the Nevins and Lauder appointments as crucial to that mission. Giovanni Russo, a consultant who has worked as creative director at Clinique, will continue as a consultant with the division.

Lauder said, “Lynne has put a great vision forward for the brand, and I am excited to be part of her team.”

— Pete Born

Gela Nash-Taylor and Pamela Skaist-Levy

PHOT

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The Prescriptives Colorprinted ad visual.

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By Matthew W. Evans

NEW YORK — A new beauty marketer, Maine Shave LLC, based in the state it’s named for, is hoping to gain a toehold in the U.S. shav-ing and skin care markets.

The fi rm, which was incorporated in February 2005, has a busi-ness plan that involves no fewer than four brands — Maine Shave, Intimate Moments, Harpswell Naturals and Good for the Soul — that are designed for varying channels of distribution.

Maine Shave’s chief executive offi cer, Herb Pressman, already has retail distribution with two of the brands. The company’s namesake Maine Shave collection is carried in more than 40 spas and in-dependent boutiques in New England and the Northeast. A shave cream called Intimate Moments is carried in a dozen Victoria’s Secret shops in the U.S.

While Pressman is aiming to estab-lish distribution for the Maine Shave collection in a large department or specialty store chain, he is also presenting the Harpswell Naturals and Good for the Soul lines to drug-store chains like CVS and Brooks Pharmacy.

“We wanted to build a branding company with a focus on natu-ral personal care products,” said Pressman, “and wanted to ad-dress all of the markets. The perception of Maine has been high quality and [as having] an incredible work ethic, and I wanted to be a proponent of that.”

With the Maine Shave collection, a line of eight products for men and women, “I hope to be in 1,000 doors in the next 12 months,” said Pressman, who noted the brand is also available at maineshave.com. He projects that sales of Maine Shave LLC could reach $1 million to $2 million in the next year.

The Main Shave line comprises four items for men and four for women. On the men’s side, there’s All-Natural Intensive Moisturizing Shaving Cream, 3.75 oz. for $20. There’s also Natural Gentle Daily Facial Cleanser, 6 oz. for $19; Toner, 6 oz. for

$18, and Moisturizer, 2 oz. for $25. The women’s half of the Maine Shave line includes All-Natural Intimate Shaving Cream, 3.75 oz. for $20; Natural Daily Body Cleanser, 6 oz. for $20; Moisturizer, 6 oz. for $28, and Splash, 6 oz. for $20.

The products’ preservative system is free of parabens; formulations are also alcohol-free. The products use botanically derived ingredi-ents like thyme, cinnamon, rosemary, lavender, golden seal, aloe and grapefruit seed extract.

Pressman bills the 11-item Harpswell Naturals brand as a “unisex health and well-ness line.” It features a shaving cream; and a body and facial cleanser, each of which comes in unscented, citrus and spearmint versions; a body and facial moisturizer in unscented, citrus and lavender versions; a citrus body

and facial refresher, and an unscented liq-uid powder. All of the Harpswell prod-ucts are 6 oz. and priced from $10 to $12. The body and facial moisturizer employs fucoidan, which is derived from Maine rockweed, to freshen and

hydrate the skin.Pressman’s Good for the Soul brand

is a foot care line comprising five items: sugar foot scrub, foot cream, extremely dry foot spray, foaming foot wash and liquid powder. Each product is $7.99.

The Intimate Moments brand, now in 12 Victoria’s Secret locations, could be

rolled out to more of the retailer’s stores, accord-ing to Pressman, who is planning additional products in the brand for fall.

Pressman, who was a photographer for numerous advertising agencies early in his career, got into the cosmetics packaging business 17 years ago. In addition to Maine Shave LLC, he owns Coastal Products, a company that does contract packag-ing for over-the-counter, prescription and consumer products marketers.

NEW YORK — Garnier’s leading hair care brand, Fructis, now has a celebrity stylist singing its praises. Brian Magallones, a hairdresser who includes Joss Stone, Mischa Barton and Nicole Richie as his clients, will use his knowl-edge to forecast the latest styling trends, as well as to guide new product development and demonstrate hair tips.

“We are thrilled to have Brian as Garnier Fructis’ celeb-rity hairstylist,” said Cheryl Vitali, senior vice president of marketing, Maybelline New York-Garnier, in a statement. “In addition to mirroring Garnier’s ideals on making hair healthy to achieve beautiful results, he brings our consum-ers valuable expertise on how to achieve the latest looks in a way that is accessible to all.”

Magallones began his career as an assistant at the Brad Johns Salon in New York, then went to work at Oscar Blandi. Freelancing on both coasts put Magallones at the forefront of the editorial world.

“I truly believe in the Garnier Fructis products and feel we have the same philosophy of achieving great hair by nourish-ing and strengthening it while adding tremendous shine. It is also important to me that I work with a line that is so available to everyone and highly performs,” he said in a statement.

8 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 14, 2006

Maine Shave, From New England, Naturally

NEW YORK — Bioré is still making pores its lifeblood. This fall, the brand is hoping to become part of consumers’ daily beauty regimens with a Pore Minimizing Collection, a range designed to minimize pores for smoother skin.

“Pores are the foundation for creating beautiful skin, and we saw pore minimizing as the next logical step,” said Nina Cornwell, Bioré’s brand manager. “People were concerned with pore mini-mizing, but there was nothing out there that met those needs.”

Known for its Deep Cleansing Pore Strips, Bioré, owned by Kao, is launching three products this September in its Pore Minimizing Collection — a face wash, an exfoliator and a moisturizer — all aimed at refi ning and renewing the skin’s complexion by visibly minimizing pores for a smoother and more even complexion. While “skin smoothers” work on the skin’s surface, an exfoliant works deep down to help strengthen pore walls, the company said.

All three products, launching in food, drug and mass doors, blend skin-smoothing technologies with natural exfoliant extracts such as willow herb, strawberry fruit and ginger. The willow herb is designed to calm, smooth and promote healing, while the strawberry fruit refi nes the skin and promotes cellular renewal with its natural alpha and beta hydroxy acids. The ginger ingredient is used to help strengthen the skin’s foundation.

The products — ranging from $5.99 for the face wash to $12.99 each for the exfoliator and light-weight moisturizer — contain technologies includ-ing SofeCare, skin-smoothing powders and Kao’s

GE EH technology. The face wash uses mas-saging beads along with the GE EH technology, a glycerin-based derivative that gently cleanses the skin without removing its natural moisture. The exfoliator uses cosmetic-grade alu-mina micro-crystals to polish away dead skin cells, while the SPF 15 oil-free moisturizer uses SofeCare, a pat-ented skin-smoothing powder, said to leave skin looking radiant and even.

The company views this launch as an opportunity to reinforce its pore expertise, while attracting more women to the brand by fi lling an unmet need.

The launch will be supported by print and TV advertising campaigns that will break this fall.

Though company executives de-clined to give projections, indus-try sources estimate Bioré’s Pore Minimizing Collection will generate $15 million in fi rst-year retail sales.

— Michelle Edgar

Bioré Aims to Minimize Facial Pores

The Beauty Report WWD.COM

Maine Shave items.

Bioré Pore Minimizing Collection.

Fructis Gets Celeb Stylist

Brian Magallones

PHOT

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MAS

IANN

ACCO

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NEW YORK — The battle between beauty’s behemoths and niche players is coming to a rolling boil.

At last year’s National Association of Chain Drug Stores’ Marketplace Conference, power vendors such as L’Oréal and Revlon convinced retailers to give them additional footage because their 2006 launches would fi ll gaps on the cosmetics wall. According to sources, executives at these brands suggested that retailers get the extra space from the smaller brands they merchandise, such as Del Labs’ N.Y.C. New York Color, Bonne Bell and P&G’s Max Factor, whose products tend to sell much slower due to a lack of presence. Also last year, leading beauty fi rms told retailers to optimize their as-sortments by looking for ways to eliminate duplications of stockkeeping units.

Fast forward to a year later. Revlon’s Vital Radiance has been un-

derperforming, leaving the door open for smaller players to nab shelf space. Already a handful of mass merchants have decided to whittle back on Vital Radiance. Market reports indicate that Wal-Mart will trim the line from 2,500 doors to 500, while Target will cut it from 1,500 to 500. CVS only had the line in select stores and has opted to elimi-nate it from Osco and Sav-On stores.

“Last year, this meeting was about the big players saying retail-ers don’t need other lines,” said Robert Wallner, executive vice pres-ident, sales, of Jordana Cosmetics Corp., the owner of Milani. “This year, retailers are more open to what we have to say,” he said of the Milani line, which has racked up impressive sales growth with a multicultural audience.

The tug-of-war between niche and nationally advertised beauty brands is hardly new. Large vendors have always tried to dominate the shelf wars with big advertising, and even slotting allowances.

In the beauty business, however, new and unique often rules. That’s one reason why the Meet the Market format at NACDS Marketplace last month was so success-ful, as retailers were likely searching for smaller players to help fi ll growing gaps on their beauty wall. At Meet the Market, vendors and buyers utilize one-on-one meet-ings to hear about new items from small fi rms. For some retailers, beauty companies with sales under $25 million are the lifeblood of sales.

A representative of one retailer, who declined to be identifi ed, shared numbers revealing that all major brands for her chain were down, whereas small brands were the only area showing growth — double-digit growth, too.

Already some winners are beginning to emerge, as industry sources said Rimmel is likely to gain freed-up shelf space at Target, and Physicians Formula is being con-sidered to gain footage at Wal-Mart in 2007.

For Lisa Yarnell, president and chief executive offi cer of Jane & Co., retailers need up-and-coming brands to fi ll an important market segment. “The growth at mass is coming from the value portion of the business — prices [of] $3 to $5 from companies such as Jane, Prestige, Rimmel and Milani. Also, these are the brands that can bring an increase in productivity.”

Industry consultant Allan Mottus said some of the bigger beauty brands are in-deed pricing themselves out of consumers’ budgets.

“Even a shopper trading down from mass isn’t going to pay what seems like a high

price at a drugstore,” he said. Pricing has been one of the obstacles, he added, to Vital Radiance’s success.

But not all is bright and rosy for small players. Wal-Mart is said to be looking closely at eliminating smaller players to concentrate on big brands. This decision is a nod to the belief that 20 percent of beauty sku’s produce 80 percent of sales. During a session at Marketplace, executives from Costco, Procter & Gamble, Meijer, CVS and WSL Strategic Retail talked about the need for simplifying the shopping process to make it easier for consumers to make choices in confusing categories such as beauty.

However, most retailers think a full presentation of colors and selection is para-mount in giving shoppers the confi dence to buy at the mass market. “Even though they buy the same red, they want to see many choices of red,” said Mark Griffi n, president of Lewis Drugs.

Another retailer, who also declined to be identifi ed, said she’s often thought of re-ducing duplicative sku’s. “But if you listen to the big companies, you’d be eliminating the wrong items. They just want to be the last ones left. If you are the only girl left at the bar at the end of the night, you look more attractive,” she joked.

Going out on a limb for little-known brands and items seems to be working for Sephora. And chains such as Walgreens and CVS are trying that idea with European names. As planograms are being mapped for 2007, hundreds of small beauty fi rms are hoping to strike the right chord with buyers and earn a chance to be the brand that will bring shoppers back to the mass market.

10 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 14, 2006

The Beauty Report

Bigger Isn’t Always Better in Beauty

LOS ANGELES — PureOlogy, the Irvine, Calif.-based hair care line created specifically for color-treated hair, is about to expand its repertoire with a series of offerings incorporating nanotechnology.

The four new items will enter salons in August or September, said Jim Markham, founder and chief executive offi cer of PureOlogy, whose prod-ucts are available in about 15,000 spas and salons in the U.S. and Canada.

The latest products bring a styling compo-nent to the wider collection, which offers some 32 different items.

“About 85 million Americans color-treat their hair,” said Markham, adding that thus far PureOlogy has been best known for its shampoos and conditioners. “Most styling products don’t have any conditioning at all. But we have combined a unique system that doesn’t fl ake and provides a long-last-ing hold and color protection.”

As the popularity of coloring and highlighting hair continues to increase, Markham anticipates continued growth in the business, which he estimated is up 70 percent over the previous 12 months.

Bowing in August is ShineLuxe, a lavender-col-ored lightweight fi nishing polish designed to smooth

down fl yaway hair and add shine. Primary ingredi-ents include nanometer-size molecules that can pen-

etrate and treat the tiny crevices in the hair shaft, as well as anti-aging vegetable proteins and ingredients such as green tea, sug-arcane and citrus extracts. The product,

which is also rich in extracts of organic mushrooms noted for their anti-infl ammatory

properties, include man-nentake, shiitake and mucor meihei variet-ies, retails for $32.

The NanoGlaze Styling Crème is ex-pected to be a top sell-er for the company, said Markham, adding that initial orders from buyers have already exceeded expectations.

“It has a light but long-lasting hold,” said Markham of the $28 product, which contains the same mushroom extracts, as well as panthenol, guar gum and veg-

etable proteins. The product is scented with avocado, walnut, iris and vanilla cream.

Orange peel wax is a key ingredient in the new

NanoWax, which is designed to eliminate frizzies and offers a moisture barrier, using what Markham said is a technology similar to that employed by manufactur-ers of lipstick. It will retail for $28.

A surge in interest in leave-in conditioners led PureOlogy to formulate InstantRepair, a clear, gel-like product that bonds with the hair to mend and untangle it. The $28 product also contains sili-cones, vegetable proteins and a blend of antioxi-dants.

Markham said he an-ticipates sales of between $8 million and $10 million at wholesale for the four

products within the fi rst full year of their availability.The company is slowly expanding internationally,

and is about to ship to Russia, Honduras, Costa Rica, the Dominican Republic and Guatemala. Markham said he is also exploring opportunities within Europe, India and Australia, and that he expects distribution deals to be in place by the end of the year.

— Kavita Daswani

PureOlogy Banks on Nanotechnology for New Styling Items

PureOlogy’s NanoWax uses technology found in lipstick.

PureOlogy’s leave-in conditioner.

The playing fi eld took a turn at NACDS Marketplace in June as small fi rms received more attention than usual from retailers.

Vital Radiance’s dismissal from some stores has small players vying for the space.

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11WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 14, 2006

WWD.COM

CaseStack Aims to Help Small Firms Bulk UpBy Molly Prior

NEW YORK — Procter & Gamble may have elevated logis-tics to an art form, but for smaller beauty firms, managing the supply chain is often costly and headache-inducing.

And for companies trying to do business with big-box retailers, which require that their vendors run their sup-ply chains like a well-oiled (and high-tech) machine, get-ting the goods to the stores on time is paramount.

Chris McClain, chief executive offi cer of Advanced Beauty Systems — a beauty fi rm that markets Bodycology body care and Cantu hair care products to mass retailers — said the company had a two-person team dedicated to supply chain management before he outsourced the job to CaseStack, a Los Angeles-based logistics provider.

Wal-Mart measures specifi c supply chain metrics, “and we were not meeting those metrics,” said McClain, ex-plaining ABS’ decision to link arms with CaseStack. ABS also distributes its wares to Target, Kmart and Brooks Eckerd Pharmacy.

The move is saving time and money, said McClain. Since handing over its logistics functions to CaseStack in spring 2005, ABS can now get goods from its manufacturing facility to its retailer partners in seven to eight days, down from its previous time frame of 14 to 16 days, and has reduced freight claims for lost or damaged goods by 80 percent, noted McClain.

“The biggest savings for us has been time,” he said, “and it’s enabled us to scale up quickly.” McClain forecast that his business will grow 50 percent this year, adding that savings on logistics has allowed ABS to focus on ramping up its product pipeline.

CaseStack, which was founded in 1999 by a former P&G executive, has built its business by convincing midsize companies, like ABS, to outsource their logis-tics needs. Prior to founding the company, CaseStack ceo Dan Sanker had been at Deloitte & Touche as a supply chain solutions consultant after having held posts at P&G and Nabisco. His work at Deloitte gave him a glimpse of how diffi cult it can be for midsize companies — generally, fi rms with sales under $1 billion — to compete with consumer packaged-goods behemoths.

By providing warehousing, transportation and product tracking technology, CaseStack gives these companies economies of scale and allows them to do business with mass retailers effi ciently, explained Sanker.

“Over time, retailers have begun to order smaller quantities of goods to make their warehouses run like more of a conveyer belt,” said Sanker. “This puts pressure on smaller fi rms and adds to their shipping costs.”

He noted that beauty companies typically spend 5 to 10 percent of their sales on logis-

tics. By teaming up with a logistics provider, they can shave roughly 10 to 15 percent off their logistics costs, he added.

The savings come from consolidation. Midsize compa-nies typically ship less than a full truckload of merchan-dise to their retail partners. CaseStack gathers its clients’ goods into its warehouses across the U.S. — located in Los Angeles, Dallas, Cleveland, Atlanta, Chicago, Philadelphia and Portland, Ore. — and then fi lls each truck that leaves a facility with multiple vendors’ goods. For instance, a typical truckload may contain pallets from 15 vendors, noted Sanker.

CaseStack’s growth rate seems to indicate that midsize companies are embracing outsourcing. The logistics fi rm’s sales are on track to reach $65 million this year, up from $35 million in 2005, according to Sanker.

CaseStack’s client list is 500 deep and extends across the food, health and beauty care, natural products and gen-

eral-merchandise industries. Most of these clients distribute to big-box retailers, ranging from Wal-Mart to Best Buy.

The business may be focused on the mass market, but its reach extends to niche beauty fi rms as well.

Red Flower, a niche beauty fi rm that manufactures natural products, relies on CaseStack to ship large amenities orders to destination spas across the U.S., in-cluding The Carneros Inn, located in Napa Valley, Calif., and the Mayfl ower Inn, in Washington, Conn. Red Flower, which industry sources estimate does $5 million to $7 million in sales, ships roughly 75 amenities orders each year, with each pallet shipped weighing some 1,200 to 1,500 pounds, noted Vincent Handon, project man-ager for Red Flower. Outsourcing the job has saved 30 percent in shipping costs, he said. “It’s helped us contain cost-of-goods, and for a small company that’s very important,” he added.

“It’s an asset in terms of simplifying shipping. It does allow us to make quicker, faster delivery decisions,” said Yael Alkalay, co-founder of Red Flower.

Red Flower also distributes its beauty products to select retailers, including its SoHo boutique, located at 13 Prince Street, and Barneys New York stores nationwide.

Noting retailers’ percolating interest in exclusive brands — including Walgreens and Target — CaseStack’s Sanker said the logistics fi rm is looking into taking on re-tailers as clients as well. Both Walgreens and Target have recently cleared substan-tial square footage in their beauty departments for a host of exclusive beauty brands. Retailers are increasingly adding exclusives and private label brands to differenti-ate themselves from competitors, noted Sanker, pointing to the success of Costco and Trader Joe’s. Sanker’s hope is that these retailers just might fi nd themselves in need of a logistics partner as well.

NEW YORK — Only months after opening its fi rst U.S. store this past spring, Fruits & Passion shows no signs of slowing down. The beauty retailer is planning an aggressive inter-national retail expansion, which includes new store openings and an ambitious entry into the face care category with three new lines, each designed to offer skin care benefi ts.

“Instead of targeting a skin care range treating a specifi c skin problem like oily skin, we’re focusing on the products’ benefi ts,” said Severine Mathe, marketing product development group manager of the Canadian company. “Not only do we have a star ingredient in each prod-uct, but we also have several other ingredi-ents derived from fruits and plants that comple-ment and reinforce the benefi ts and act in syn-ergy with the main in-gredient.”

Each face care line has an underlying ac-tive fruit ingredient de-signed to treat the skin. Radiance creates a glowing and radiant effect, Defense protects and purifi es and Anti-Age re-generates and tones the skin.

Industry sources estimate the new products will bring in $5 million in fi rst-year retail sales.

Though the collection was launched in Canada last March, the lines will be avail-able in over 2,000 specialty stores and U.S. department stores, including Nordstrom, Anthropologie, Henri Bendel and PureBeauty this August. Price points range from $18 for Radiance’s Vitaminized Cleansing Mousse to $40 for the Anti-Age Regenerating Night Cream. Customers can mix and match the products, depending on their skin’s changing conditions and needs.

The Radiance range contains six prod-ucts, including the Vitaminized Hydra Cream,

Exfoliating Gel, Purifying Toner and Instant Glow Essence. The line’s main pomegranate ingredient is designed to help the skin absorb and retain moisture to improve overall skin tone. The formula also contains cranberry, which protects the skin from harmful environ-mental conditions and promotes skin cell re-juvenation, and papaya and pineapple, which reduce blemishes and redness.

The Defense collection also includes six products, including the Purifying Mask, Eye Make-Up Remover, Anti-Stress Essence and Protective Day

Cream. Designed to neutralize free radicals to protect the skin from premature aging as well as improve detoxification, the line helps users to regain skin tone, elasticity and pu-rity. Composed of moringa

proteins, centella asiatica, echinacea and pea extract, the line’s main ingredient, Chardonnay grape, pro-tects the skin from environ-mental pollutants and free radicals.

The Anti-Age range in-cludes an eye contour treatment, a fi rming for-mula and day and night creams, all designed to reduce signs of aging by helping the skin regain its tone and fi rmness. Known primar-ily for its vitamin C, the Acerola cherry is the line’s main ingredient, fi ghting premature aging with vitamins A, B1, B2 and B3. The cherry extract’s malic acid accelerates cellu-lar regeneration while the vitamin C prevents the appearance of fi ne lines and wrinkles. Blue-green algae and soy proteins revitalize and strengthen the skin’s natural protection.

There are 127 Fruits & Passion stores in 12 countries. Over the next three years, the com-pany has a broad expansion plan to open 50 U.S. stores and 40 stores in new markets such as Saudi Arabia.

— Michelle Edgar

NEW YORK — Beginning in September, John Paul Mitchell will be offering shots to his clients. Shots of hair color, that is.

Small vials of color in red, orange, yellow, blue and violet were designed to add “more pop into your color,” as Paul Mitchell mas-ter associate Stephanie Kocielski described it. When combined with the existing Paul Mitchell hair color lines The Color and PM Shines in salons, the addition of Color Shots creates more than 1,000 color possibilities.

“Color Shots puts art back into the colorist’s hands,” said Angus Mitchell, co-owner of John Paul Mitchell Systems, outside a Paul Mitchell styling trailer here Tuesday.

Although the company declined to divulge fi nancial details, industry sources estimate the service will generate as much as $10 million within its fi rst year.

The brainchild of more than 300 Paul Mitchell educators, the idea for the product originated right from the mouths of custom-ers in various Paul Mitchell salons around the world.

“One thing many people complain about with their highlights or color is that it may get dull or blah after a while,” Kocielski, a 20-year veteran of the company, said. “This is for people who want to fi ne-tune their color.”

Color Shots will be the newest addition to all Paul Mitchell salon color bars.

Prices for Color Shots range from $10 to $20, in addition to hair coloring services, and are offered in salons only. However, price ranges for hair coloring services depend on each individual salon, Nicole Cline, marketing director, said.

— Andrea Arterbery

Paul Mitchell’s Shot of Color

ADDING UP BEAUTY

Fruits & Passion Enters Face Care

Advanced Beauty Systems, maker of Bodycology, outsourced logistics to CaseStack.

Items in the John Paul Mitchell Color Shots line.

Products from the Radiance, Defense and Anti-Age lines.

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WWD.COM

By Alessandra Ilari

MILAN — The high-end Iceberg line is U.S.-bound.Gilmar Group, the fashion manufacturer based in cen-

tral Italy with a portfolio that includes Iceberg, Ice B, Ice J, Gerani, Frankie Morello and Giambattista Valli Paris, wants to reposition Iceberg in the U.S. at a higher level.

The company felt Iceberg didn’t have enough U.S. expo-sure and wasn’t carried in the right stores.

“Until now, its positioning wasn’t adequate, so we want to concentrate on upscale sales points,” said Paolo Gerani, chief executive offi cer of Gilmar Group. “Though they were performing well, we temporarily stopped distributing our secondary and contemporary lines Ice B and Ice J in the U.S. so as not to create confusion for Iceberg.”

To carry out its plans, Iceberg has named Angela Casiero vice president of the U.S. division, based in New York.

With Giambattista Valli as design consultant, Iceberg mixes a sportswear edge with uptown chic details and embellishments. The prime focus is knitwear and slinky dresses, with glammed-up outerwear in between. Wholesale prices run from $255 for basic knitwear to $2,550 for an elaborate evening dress.

Over the years, Iceberg’s offerings were expanded to in-clude watches and eyewear, licensed to Retkie Industries Ltd. and Allison, respectively.

Gerani noted that in 2005, sales for North America grew 50 percent compared with 2004 and are on target to perform at a similar level this year. Gerani forecasted steady double-digit growth for the next three years.

Iceberg is also pushing its accessories business, which will launch in the U.S. in 2007. Once the ready-to-wear and accessories categories are well positioned, Iceberg will reintroduce its con-

temporary and secondary lines to the U.S. and eventually open namesake stores. Iceberg is carried at Jimmy’s in New York, Lior in Las Vegas and Chloe Lane in Park City, Utah. “We are

also in talks with Barneys and Saks,” Gerani said. The fall ad campaign features Naomi Campbell shot by Solve Sundsbo against a gold-tinted brick wall.

Founded in 1974 by Giuliana Marchini Gerani, Iceberg is considered one of Italy’s fi rst luxury sportswear brands with a penchant for knitwear. With 350 employees and 2005 sales of $140.2 million, Gilmar Group an-nually transforms 1,242 miles of fabrics and 220 tons of yarns into 1.5 million garments in its high-tech factory sprawled over 430,000 square feet.

Iceberg has 11 namesake stores around the world, in addition to 300 points of sale. In the beginning, especially, Iceberg broke out of the mold by offering contemporary and colorful knitwear

splattered with cartoon designs or Pop Art images. The Gerani family’s passion for art infl uenced Iceberg’s new store concept. With a relaxing and homey atmosphere, the store features small rooms dedicated to prod-ucts such as knitwear and eveningwear.

On display in the various venues are artwork by known and unknown artists, such as Andy Warhol or Keith Haring, interspersed with paintings by young Italian artists such as Ugo Rondinone or Giovanni Lombardini.

“The idea is to rotate the artwork around the various stores. We purposely kept the decor and the colors simple so that the paintings could stand out,” said Gerani, referring to the cream carpeting and walls, dark wood details and faux suede Alkantara sofas.

executive search by LVMH, which has been conducted for more than a year, and become fodder for much in-dustry speculation in recent months.

Bringing in Weber, 56, who is well-known in apparel circles, would be something of a surprise, since PVH’s board abruptly dismissed him as ceo after just eight months on the job. That came as a shock to the indus-try since Weber had spent 33 years at the fi rm. He had been the right-hand man to the company’s prior ceo Bruce Klatsky and was considered a natural successor to the executive, who stepped down in June 2005.

Weber is thought to be a slick, if not fl amboyant ex-ecutive, with a penchant for expensive designer suits and a salt-and-pepper bouffant that could be consid-ered his personal signature.

When Weber took over as ceo, Klatsky told share-holders at the company’s annual meeting of their fi rst encounter: “All of a sudden, this guy with this crazy hair who was wearing a suit that’s worth more than my entire wardrobe shows up outside my offi ce.”

During the fi nal years of his tenure at PVH, Weber was instrumental in the purchase of Calvin Klein Inc. in 2003 and its successful integration into PVH. He was also said to have become increasingly involved in Calvin Klein’s marketing and advertising strategies.

Once Weber assumed the ceo role, however, sources said his aggressive, micromanaging style clashed with the PVH board. He was replaced at PVH by Emanuel Chirico, the company’s former president and chief op-erating offi cer.

At DKI, Weber would join a list of presidents and ceo’s who have entered and exited the doors at 550 Seventh Avenue. They have included Stephen L. Ruzow and John Idol, and since LVMH purchased the brand, Pino Brusone, Fred Wilson and Aronsson.

The move to replace Aronsson indicates that LVMH still hasn’t seen the success it anticipated when it bought DKI for over $643 million in 2001. While Karan’s recent Collection shows have been much-lauded, sourc-es said that they have been challenging at the whole-

sale level with poor deliveries and uneven merchandis-ing strategies. However, sales at company-owned stores are said to be on the upswing. In addition, the much-an-ticipated accessories growth never materialized.

That said, the company has tightened its belt under Aronsson to create a platform for future growth, clos-ing underperforming distribution channels, slashing third-party retail accounts and minimizing off-price sales. Also, it has worked on improving the quality and fi t of the merchandise. DKNY, meanwhile, appears to be turning around, and the brand opened stores in Dubai, Istanbul, Shanghai, Montreal, Singapore, Seoul, Bangkok, Taipei and Kuala Lumpur. A Tokyo store is expected to open before the end of the year.

Continued from page one

12 WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 14, 2006

Media/Advertising

JANE CHARADE: Jane fashion director Kusum Lynn came face-to-face with her imposter on Wednesday night. And it turns out not only is she a he, but the guy has a long history of impersonating Condé Nast employees.

For months, publicists in the fashion, music and fi lm industries have been contacting Lynn to let her know that someone was using her name and credentials in an attempt to get into events. In May, Gawker.com posted an e-mail from one of Lynn’s fellow Jane editors, warning people about the deception, though that doesn’t seem to have served as much of a deterrent.

“I have received many e-mails about requests for tickets to concerts at Madison Square Garden and to movie premieres,” Lynn said. “The most random was a Bronx Zoo event. Talk about free time.”

While attending the 85th anniversary party for Gucci on Wednesday, the real Kusum fi nally encountered the fake. “I said my name at the door and the girl with the clipboard informed me that the man to my right was claiming to be me,” Lynn said. “Condé Nast security had told me that they thought it might be a man, so that’s why I wasn’t so surprised when I saw him....I said, ‘Oh, you’re the one who’s been running around all over town enjoying yourself at countless events using my name to gain entrance.’ I then informed him that Condé Nast security was on his trail.”

And they apparently have been for quite some time. The same man, it seems, keeps impersonating someone from Glamour editor in chief Cindi Leive’s

offi ce. “Even in the past week, somebody masquerading as Cindi’s assistant called to RSVP for the Gucci event,” said a Glamour spokeswoman. “There’s been a pattern of incidents like this, where someone claiming to be from Cindi’s offi ce calls to go to fashion-related events, fashion shows and screenings. Several p.r. people called Cindi’s offi ce to check it out this week because she had already RSVP’d.”

The poser has also evidently been operating under the name and

title Janice Simpson, special events manager of Condé Nast. No such person exists.

So what did the faux Kusum-Leive-assistant-Janice Simpson do when confronted by Lynn?

“He just stood there staring at me and didn’t say a word while I looked for my Treo to try and take a photo of him,” she said. Before Lynn was able to snap a picture, the man left with two women he had brought as his dates.

But at least Lynn now knows what he looks like.“He is a small, well-dressed Middle Eastern or

Indian man,” she said. “A few of the waiters at the [Gucci] event recognized him. They said he always gets very drunk and proclaims to have been the director of the movie ‘Crash.’”

Which means publicists and bouncers should also be on the lookout for a short, dark man claiming to be Paul Haggis. — Sara James

PAPER CHASE: New York Daily News gossips George Rush and Joanna Molloy were at the Ritz-Carlton in Pasadena for a junket this week, only they weren’t the ones asking the questions. Rush and Molloy were in town to talk to television critics about the new Bravo series they star in, “Tabloid Wars,” which premieres on July 24. The series also features former News editor in chief Michael Cooke, along with Tony Sclafani, Tracy Connor, Hud Morgan, Jonathan Lemire, Kerry Burke and Gregory Gittrich. Filmed during the summer of 2005, it follows the staff as they chase stories ranging from racial murders to Robert De Niro’s thieving nanny to the Gotti boys. For a show fi lled with closed-caption telephone conversations, one-on-one interviews and somewhat predictable editing tricks — staffers’ faces are freeze-framed, black-and-white newspaper style, each time a segment breaks — “Wars” is strangely compelling. But as the on-screen clock counts down to each day’s deadline to build suspense, one wonders how the reporters made time for the camera crews. And maybe also why they didn’t get hair, makeup and wardrobe like the casts of Bravo’s other reality shows. — Marcy Medina

MEMO PADWeber Said to Be in Lead for DKI CEO Post

The real Kusum Lynn.

Iceberg Reenergizes Its U.S. Efforts

Two looks from Iceberg’s pre-spring/summer ’07 line.

Mark Weber

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Backstage at Couture | New faces, great products, trends to watch | Insider’s guide: Fashion week in New York, London, Milan and Paris

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WWD.COMWWD, FRIDAY, JULY 14, 200614

By Emili Vesilind

LOS ANGELES — The city of Inglewood, Calif., where voters two years ago defeated a ballot initiative to permit a 60-acre Wal-Mart complex, has toughened requirements for big-box retailers.

The city council voted 4 to 0 this week to approve an ordinance requir-ing the stores to conduct a cost/benefi t assessment that any new units would have on the working-class suburb of Los Angeles. The so-called superstore ordinance applies to all retail stores in excess of 100,000 square feet with more that 10 percent of merchandise dedi-cated to non-taxable goods (groceries are not taxable in California). Retailers would be required to hire a consultant to generate the report based on a list of experts preapproved by the city.

After the defeat at the polls in April 2004, Wal-Mart bought the roughly 200,000-square-foot plot of land where it had hoped to build — simultane-ously saying that it has no plans for construction in Inglewood.

The referendum was a watershed for opponents of Wal-Mart, which was said to have spent more than $1 mil-lion to promote the initiative, showing that a grassroots-led movement could successfully fight the Bentonville,

Ark.-based company. A coalition of unions, churches and other groups campaigned against Wal-Mart, saying a supercenter would harm local retail-ers and also render moot the city’s en-vironmental and planning authority.

Since then, Wal-Mart has embarked on a vigorous campaign to counter op-ponents, touting its job creation, boost-ing health care benefi ts for employees and starting a program to support small businesses near its urban stores. The company, which has been rebuffed in New York and Los Angeles, is trying to open 50 stores in urban neighbor-hoods in the next two years.

Inglewood is the third jurisdiction in the U.S. to enact legislation of this kind. The others are Los Angeles and Alameda County in northern California.

Wal-Mart spokesman Kevin McCall said although the company has held on to the land, “the feeling is that obviously we don’t have a project in Inglewood....When you get into more urban areas like the company is focused on right now, the process is more lengthy.’’ However, repre-sentatives from the Coalition for a Better Inglewood and the Los Angeles Alliance for a New Economy said the company plans to build.

During a public hearing at Inglewood City Hall, Mayor Roosevelt

F. Dorn said the ordinance was aimed at all large franchises. Dorn, who in 2004 was the only council mem-ber in favor of the retailer entering Inglewood but has since changed his position, said the ordinance “will give…the council the ability to effec-tively monitor every big-box store that comes into the city.”

Though Wal-Mart did not send a representative, fi ve individuals from each side of the debate were invited to speak before the council.

Willie Agee, a retired teamster and resident of Inglewood, said he sup-ports Wal-Mart because of the jobs it would create for young African-Americans.

Henry Willis, an attorney for LAANE, said the ordinance “would allow the people in the city of Inglewood to deal with planning is-sues on the basis of fact.”

Though the ordinance may end up restricting the size of a Wal-Mart store in Inglewood, it may not signifi cantly hamper the company’s plans to open a unit there. Councilman Curran D. Price said if Wal-Mart went through the process of compiling an economic report and it was acceptable to the council, “they would be approved.”

The ordinance will receive a fi nal procedural vote within 30 days.

L.A. Suburb Sets Stricter Big-Box Limits

By Marc Karimzadeh

NEW YORK — Saks Fifth Avenue is getting cozy with Glenn Close — for a good cause.

Close has been named this year’s Entertainment Industry Foundation ambassador to Saks’ 2006 Key to the Cure program. She follows Hilary Swank, Charlize Theron and Nicole Kidman, and will be featured in the campaign wearing a limited-edition T-shirt by Oscar de la Renta with a pink bow motif. The image was photographed by Timothy White and placed in September and October magazines. The T-shirts, retailing for $35 ($31 of it will go to EIF’s Women’s Cancer Research Fund), will be avail-able at Saks in October.

“I decided to participate because I could and because I’ve lost too many friends to cancer, most recently Dana Reeve to lung cancer, and my grandmoth-er had breast cancer,” Close said. “I believe in science, and one of the great treasures of this country is that we’ve always been in the forefront of scientifi c investigation…that’s why it’s tremendously im-portant to raise money for women’s cancer research.”

The Key to the Cure initiative is a partnership with the Women’s Cancer Research Fund. Mercedes-Benz USA is of-fering additional support and has created a signature edi-

tion of its E 350 luxury sedan to benefi t the organization.“Glenn is internationally known both on stage and

screen; she is an Oscar nominee; she is a mother, a Saks shopper,” said Saks’ chief executive offi cer Stephen Sadove. “She is also passionate about some of the wom-

en’s health issues that we have to deal with and that are so important to Saks.”

On Oct. 11, Saks will host a gala to kick off a nationwide shopping week-end, Oct. 12-15, during which a portion of Saks sales will go to EIF’s Women’s Cancer Research Fund. In the seven years since it was launched, the shop-ping weekend has raised more than $20 million, which has been distributed to more than 50 charitable organizations. “It goes right to the researchers in the communities in which we operate,” Sadove said. “I lost a sister to cancer. It’s something that is very important and dear to me.”

The Women’s Cancer Research Fund was created by Kelly Chapman Meyer, Anne Douglas, Quinn Ezralow, Marion

Laurie and Jamie Tisch, and chairs Rita Wilson, Tom Hanks, Kate Capshaw and Steven Spielberg.

Close noted, “I’ve been told in my lifetime there will be a cure, and I believe it. But it won’t happen unless we support important scientifi c research through programs like EIF’s Women’s Cancer Research Fund.”

Glenn Close Joins Saks’ Key to the Cure Program

SEE SCARLETT RUN: Scarlett Johansson and Reebok are partners on a new project, the details — or even big picture — of which the athletic giant is staying mum on until July 25, when their collaborative plans will be unveiled at a New York fete. The 21-year-old Hollywood starlet is already a spokesmodel for L’Oréal and would be a natural to appear in other types of fashion or lifestyle ads. In fact, she’s no stranger to the fashion world, having presented the Womenswear Designer of the Year Award at the CFDA Fashion Awards in June. And she already socializes with several designers, including the Calvin Klein star she personally crowned, Francisco Costa.

RICHARD’S RETURN?: There’s barely been a peep from Richard Cohen since he exited St. John as chief executive offi cer in April. Now sources close to Cohen say he’s gearing up to announce his return, possibly to another Los Angeles-based company. Cohen, who was ceo of Ermenegildo Zegna before joining St. John, has been splitting his time between New York and Los Angeles.

BABY TIME: With New York’s social scene currently divorce central, it’s nice to know there are some couples — albeit European ones — who have something to celebrate. Fashion royalty Carolina Herrera Jr. gave birth Wednesday night to her second child, a boy, with husband, Don Miguel Baez Spinola, in their home base in Spain. Joining his one-year-old sister, Olimpia de la Concepción, Miguel Baez Herrera weighed in at just over seven-and-a-half pounds.

INTERCONTINENTAL: Designer Erin Fetherston is an American in Paris, but she will be heading across the pond to show her spring collection in New York in September. The budding designer is not one to neglect her faithful French followers, however. She’s teaming up again with photographer Ellen von Unwerth for a series of portraits to exhibit during Paris Fashion Week. The project will feature a bevy of stylish stunners, including Sarah Sophie Flicker, Vanessa and Victoria Traina and Leith Clark, along with a mix of childhood friends, all styled by Fetherston in pieces from the upcoming collection.

ROLE PLAY: Azzaro’s Vanessa Seward is the latest fashion designer set to pop up on the silver screen. Seward just fi nished scenes in which she plays a party hostess in the feature directed by her friend, actress Julie Delpy. The fi lm, titled “Deux Jours,” or “Two Days,” is due out in March. SPECIAL KAY: Pop’s fi dgety mad hatter, Jay Kay of Jamiroquai, has taken the leap into fashion design. The British singer has done a capsule collection for Hugo Boss in collaboration with the brand’s designer, Volker Kächele. The colorful collection, dubbed JK for HUGO, comprises casual basics, boot-cut pants and biker jackets, as well as accessories. It’s slated to hit Hugo Boss stores worldwide in November.

PAY DAY: Now that her role in the extended run of Neil LaBute’s “Some Girls” is a wrap, actress Judy Reyes is directing her fi rst short, “The Passion of Christian L’Amor.” The fi lm’s plot revolves around a newly engaged young woman who goes against her fi ancé’s wishes and buys an exorbitant “It” bag at Girlshop, where several key scenes will be shot today. The “Scrubs” actress wanted to use the name Christian Dior in the title but “through-the-roof” fees scared her off, a spokeswoman said.

Reyes had never shopped in the Washington Street store before her producer scouted it. Shopping once was, but is no longer, a hobby for the actress. After being pictured one too many times as a fashion faux pas, Reyes hired a stylist. Preparing for today’s shoot has allowed for a few Girlshop indulgences. But no freebies for Reyes — she has placed some items on hold.

Fashion Scoops

NEW YORK — German officials on Thursday announced the launch of a mar-keting campaign aimed at U.S. investors that features Claudia Schiffer.

Schiffer, 36, appears in a series of mass transit ads that tout investing in Germany, which is described as a “land of ideas.” In several of the ads, Schiffer — who gained fame in the fashion world during the Nineties as a Guess model — wears nothing but a German fl ag. The ads have quotes such as: “Invest in Germany, boys” and “Get your hands on a German supermod-el.” The latter ad then suggests buying the latest German car.

Schiffer, who was not paid for the job, was photographed by Peter Lindbergh. It was her idea to wear the fl ag. “I think it’s the least I can do for a country that has shown me so much support,” Schiffer said in a statement.

The campaign is a private-public partnership. Gerhard Maier, managing di-rector of Invest in Germany GmbH, said the initiative is designed to shed light on the advantages of doing business in Germany. He said during a press confer-ence that investors are lured to do business in Germany by the country’s stable politics, as well as by its motivated and highly skilled workforce. The country is already on the radar of many U.S. investors, especially private-equity fi rms.

Maier said for the fi rst half of 2006, there has been more than $12 billion worth of private-equity mergers and acquisitions across all sectors of German business, from retail to telecommunications.

— Arthur Zaczkiewicz

Germany Taps Schiffer to Woo Investors

Scarlett Johansson at this year’s CFDA Awards.

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Glenn Close in the Key to the Cure T-shirt.

Page 15: JONES STOCK FALLS ON DOWNGRADE/2 BATTLE IN BEAUTY/10 … · 2015-02-28 · EXPORT BAN: The House has unanimously approved a reso-lution to extend a ban on all exports from Burma,

15WWD, FRIDAY, JULY 14, 2006

57th St. - Full Floor - 3000 ft.Soho Penthouse live / work skylightsBryant Park Duplex - All Great DealsPrime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043

Showrooms & LoftsBWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS

Great ’New’ Office Space AvailADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500

Looking for Showroom to Sharein New York for markets only.

Call or E-mail Kamran or Gretchen at:213-748-5500

[email protected]

PATTERNS, SAMPLES,PRODUCTIONS

All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service.Call Sherry 212-719-0622.

PATTERNS, SAMPLES,PRODUCTIONS

Full service shop to the trade.Fine fast work. 212-869-2699.

Asst Account ExecProduct Development

Private Label Co. (Missy Sportswear,Knits & Wovens) is seeking well-organized, detail-oriented person whois able to work in a fast-paced environ-ment to follow-up on all phases ofproduct development. Good communi-cation and computer skills.Fax resume Attn: AP to: 212-302-1856

Design AssistantLeading children’s wear manufacturerseeks highly motivated/detailed indi-vidual for girls division to assist in allaspects of design through production.MAC & Illustrator a must. Minimumof 1-3 years experience preferred.

Please fax or email resume to:Attn: Gail

(212) 967-8108/[email protected]

Designer - SwimwearGIRLS - JRS - CONTEMPORARYSeeking a pro to add to the team.

Mass - Dept/Specialty StoreHigh profile label.

Fax resume to: 201-391-6305

Import Department AsstApparel Import Dept seeks exp’d assis-tant to work independently and liaisonwith overseas factories, ocean / airconsolidators, SS lines, truckers,banks and customs brokers, as well aslocal sales, production and warehousepersonnel. Must have hands-on exp inthe above, along with knowledge ofcustoms compliance and ability toeffectively dispatch containers. E-mailresume: [email protected] or fax(212) 842-4040 EOE.

Production AssistantKnitwear mfr. seeks production assistantto follow & track styles from developmentto shipping. Excel and Outlook a must.Min. 1 yr. exp. pref’d but not mandatory.Needs to be very organized & detailedoriented. Pls. fax resume & salary req’s

(212) 704-2174

MANAGERCORPORATE STUDIOS

Merle Norman Cosmetics a leader in the cosmetics industry,in Los Angeles is seeking a Mgr.of Corp. Studios responsible forthe overall sales and operationsof 5 company-owned cosmetic

Studios including budget adminis-tration. Will hire, train & supervise

a staff of Studio Managers &act as liaison to Home Office.

Qualified candidates can send /fax / e-mail resume with

salary history (MANDATORY) to:Professional Placement

MERLE NORMAN COSMETICS9130 Bellanca Ave.

Los Angeles, CA 90045Fax: (310) 337-2364

E-mail: [email protected]

PR Manager, LicensingResponsible for the direction andimplementation of Int’l publicityprograms for Playboy’s fashionproducts; licensed products andretail venues. Must have: 5+years PR exp. for a well-knownfashion brand and extensive data-base of fashion contacts andstylists. BA/BS in Comm., Englishor PR. Exceptional writing, com-munication, presentation & multi-tasking capabilities. Int’l travelreq’d. NY location. E-mail resume& cover letter to:[email protected]

Sales AdministratorGlobal Textile Co. servicing the IntimateApparel Industry seeks a detail orientedcandidate with strong communication& follow up skills. Great opportunityto work with industry leaders. Salarycommensurate with experience, howeverwilling to train the right candidate. Reply:

Box#M 1027c/o Fairchild Classified

750 Third Avenue, 5th FlNew York, NY 10017

SALESPERSONJunior Dress Company looking for aSeasoned salesperson to maintain ex-isting accounts as well as bring in newbusinesses. The right person shouldhave a JUNIOR dress background, 3-5years experience in sales and mer-chandising experience. Must be will-ing to travel and have computer skills.Person will start immediately. Emailresumes along with salary require-ments to DONNA at:[email protected]

SAMPLE CUTTERFashion Designer seeks exp’d Sample

Cutter with knowledge in grading and custom couture eveningwear.

Please call (347) 439-5200

KATHY VAN ZEELANDHANDBAG AND ACCESSORIES GROUP

Kathy Van Zeeland, the fastest growing accessory companyseeks experienced handbag designers and

entry level product development team.

DESIGNERSQualified candidates must have 3-5 years experience in thebetter handbag market. Proficient in Photoshop/Illustrator,ability to hand sketch, interpret fashion trends. Enjoy workingin a fast-paced dynamic environment. Overseas communica-tion and travel experience necessary.ENTRY LEVEL PRODUCT DEVELOPMENTRecent college graduates from design school looking tolaunch career. Must be detail-oriented, highly motivated andhave excellent communication skills. Willing to work hard forgrowth opportunity.

Come join the team and work with the best!Fax 212-273-3773

E-mail [email protected]

Bond No. 9 New York, a high-end fragrance company isseeking highly motivated, dynamic, detail-oriented, organizedcandidates for the following positions:

• Store Managers • Sales Associates • Production Manager • Administrative Assistant • Accounts Receivable / Bookkeeper

3 years minimum fragrance experience a must.Please email resume and cover letter in MS Word format to

[email protected] with salary requirementsor Fax to: 212.750.2135

Kaufmann de SuisseJewelers

Seeking a top Sales Professional/Mgr.with a minimum 10 years experienceand capable of 5M+ per year in revenue.Confidentiality assured. Please Fax CV to:

212-249-5703

SALESL.A. based co. in need of an exclusiveJR Dress Rep for our N.Y. showroom.Merchandising experience a plus. Faxresume to: (951) 734-3713

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IT’S NOT A GAME OF CHANCE.Allure’s October Best of Beauty issue sells 35 million products. Place your bets now by contacting Nancy Berger Cardone, Vice President and Publisher, at 212.286.7254.

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