january 2009 women's adventure magazine

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AGENCYThe Great Society

ART DIRECTOR / CONTACTJamie McGaw / 503.810.9248

CREATIVE DIRECTOR/ COPYWRITERRandall Schoonover

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PUBLICATIONWomens Adventure

ISSUE DATE00/00/00

ADVERTISERBrooks Running

ILLUSTRATIONTrish Grantham

PRE-PRESSBruce Harris Retouching [email protected]

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Fly GirlsWomen can compete in every sport in the Winter Olympics

except one: ski jumping. A cadre of high-flying women is

fighting to change that, but will they succeed in time for the

2010 Vancouver games? If all goes perfectly at their first-

ever World Championship on February 18 in Liberec, Czech

Republic, they just might.

By Kristin Bjornsen

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Run for the SunSure, we adore winter as much as you do, but lets face it:

somewhere deep in even the best ski powder, all thoughts

turn to warmth and sunshine. Ready to take a break from

the white stuff? Park your skis (just for a while) and head

someplace where the latitude and the longitude require

sandals and a swimsuit.

By Debra Bokur

42Dating in DudedomThe trials of being a single girl in a mountain town

By Kate Siber

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FEATURES

cover photo: Gabe Rogel

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Stretch your boundarieswith the Marmot Torre Jacket.

No matter how far you go, the all-new Torre Jacketwill stretch you even further. Constructed fromGORE-TEX PRO SHELL, its loaded with features designed to offer complete protection from the elements but its stretchy fabric is comfortable and fl exible enough that you wont even have to think about it. In fact people may think youre stretching the truth about howfar you got out there so try to remember your camera.

P E O P L E / P R O D U C T / P L A N E T From our extraordinary partners to the high performance clothing and equipment we design to the measured steps were taking toward global sustainability, this is Marmot for LifeFrom our extraordinary partners to the high performance clothing and equipment we design

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10. The Dirt People, Places, and Things from Our Outdoor World Healthy retreats, the lowdown on base layers, how the cold affects your workout, yoga hybrids, skate- skiing, and more

28. Its Personal Girl in a Bubble Tales from the wilderless

56. Whole Health Power Down Think napping is just for kids? Think again. It could be just what you need to feel human again.

64. Yes, You Can Change Your Ways Its a whole new yearand the perfect time to kick that bad habit.

72. Full Thinking Outside the Heart-shaped Box How the virtues of chocolate go way beyond the decadent taste

80. Fresh from the Field Getting off the Beaten Track Are you into lift-served skiing or hiking for your turns? Long, low-angle tours or five miles of vertical? Telemark, Nordic, or AT? If you have the answers to these questions, we have the recommendations for what to wear under your feet and what gear to take on your next backcountry adventure.

96. Editorial Par-what? What fearless feat will you be attempting in 2009?

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6. Behind the Story 8. Message from the Editor 94. Musings

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30. Love on the Rocks My Pseudo-date with an Extreme Adventurer Our intrepid reporter goes on assignment to find out the truth: Can elite athletes actually make good boyfriends?

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Founder/PublisherMichelle Theall

Editor in ChiefChristian Nardi

Creative DirectorRandi McEntee, RP Graphic Design Studio

EditorialCopy Editor: Elizabeth von Radics

Proofreader: Susan GallGear Editor: Karina Evertsen

Assistant Editors: Bryn Fox, Mariko LeBaronCycling Gear Editor: Susan Hayse

Photo Editor: Corrynn Cochran

Editorial queries or submissions should be sent to [email protected].

Products for review consideration should be sent to [email protected].

Nonreturnable samples may be sent to 1637 Pearl Street #201, Boulder, CO 80302-5447

Photo queries should be sent to [email protected].

AdvertisingAssociate Publisher: Karina Evertsen

West Coast/Rockies/Midwest [email protected]/303 263 2722

Northwest Sales: Michelle [email protected]/720 635 1380

California Sales: Theresa [email protected]/303 641 5525

Eastern Sales: Susan [email protected]/303 931 6057

Automotive/Food/Beverage Sales: Melissa [email protected]/303 588 4686

Advertising ManagersJoanna Laubscher (Northwest): [email protected]

Alex Ballas (Travel/Tourism): [email protected]

For general advertising inquiries, please see the posted media kit on our website or e-mail us at [email protected].

Office Manager: Lynne Boyle [email protected]

Design Manager: Krisan Christensen

CirculationCirculation Director: Rick Rhinehart

If youd like to carry Womens Adventure in your store or would like to explore a partnership to help us grow our subscriber base, please e-mail us at

[email protected].

Subscribers and Customer ServiceIf you wish to subscribe to the magazine, have a change of address,

or have missed an issue, please contact Kable Fulfillment at 800 746 3910 or e-mail us at [email protected].

WebWeb Developer: Susan Hayse

behind ThE STORY

As someone who never clocks more than five hours of sleep per night, Atlanta, Georgiabased freelance writer TERAH SHELTON jumped at the chance to hit the hay (and decrease her sleep debt) in the name of research. Ive always underestimated the significance of getting enough sleep, says Terah. In Power Down (Whole Health, page 56), she discovered the importance of keeping naps to the

suggested length of 20 minutes. I forgot to set my alarm clock and slipped into the third stage of sleep, says Terah. I woke feeling sluggish and irritableworse than I did before I took the nap. Terahs articles have appeared in Womens Health, Hallmark, Natural Solutions, and Every Day with Rachael Ray, among others.

When KATE SIBER first moved from the East Coast to Santa Fe, she figured shed return home in a year or two. Six years later that now seems unlikely. In Dating in Dudedom (page 42), Kate, now based in Durango, Colorado, writes about the trials of being a single woman in a mountain town. The dearth of women here spurs a lot of desperate and silly behavior on the part of mountain-dwelling men, she says. If I learned anything from this story, its

that if youre a single gal in one of these areas, you really need to keep a sense of humor about dating. Kate writes for Outside, National Geographic Adventure, Womens Health, and the New York Times, among other publications.

She hasnt made a New Years resolution since she was 10, but Wisconsin-based writer ANDREA BAHE still likes the idea of starting fresh on January 1. Its easy to be cynical about turning over a new leaf this time of year, says Andrea. Theres a lot of self-help literature out there right now that makes hyperbolic promises about how easy it is to change your life, yet experience tells us its not. In her research for this issues

Yes, You Can (Change Your Ways, page 64), she bypassed the quick fixes and instead examined how our habits are formed. Thankfully, there are practical things we can do to nudge our-selves toward change. Andrea is the former assistant editor at Wisconsin Trails magazine.

The opinions and the advice expressed herein are exclusively those of the authors and are not representative of the publishing company or its members.

Copyright 2009 by Big Earth Publishing. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without written permission is expressly prohibited.

Womens Adventure makes a portion of its mailing list available from time to time to third parties. If you want to request exclusion from our promotional list, please contact us at [email protected].

Outdoor activities are inherently risky, and participation can cause injury or loss of life. Please consult your doctor prior to beginning any workout program or sports activity, and seek out a qualified instructor. Big Earth Publishing will not be held responsible for your decision to thrive in the wild. Have fun!

/iV]6/x{xU 802.879.3369iPod is a trademark of Apple,Inc., registered in the U.S. and other countries. Kombi is a registered trademark of Kombi, LTD.

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editoRs LETTER

Here Comes tHe sunI live in Santa Fe, New Mexico, where were blessed with 300 days of sunshine each year. There are a lot of reasons why I choose to live in Santa Fe, but I have to say that the high percentage of sunshine is at the top of the list. Here we are, smack dab in the middle of winter, and, yes, it gets cold here, at times brutallybut the sun is out and the sky is big and blue. A lack of sun is a nice thing not to have to complain about. I know abundant sunshine isnt the norm during January and February, so, seeing how its so important to me, I present to you some rays in the form of this issue. Our travel story (Run for the Sun), which features eight destinations to bask in warmth in the middle of the cold season, is one obvious way. But then there is also Kate Sibers expos on the

dating scene in mountain towns. What is it about these places that encourages arrested development when it comes to love and relationships? Even if youre happily married and live nowhere near a mountain town, Dating in Dudedom will suck you in like only a good juicy story can. Considering these girls can fly, its ridiculous that theres no womens ski-jumping event in the Winter Olympics. Kristen Bjornsens article is about what it takes to be a professional in this niche sport and what the U.S. Ski Teams women ski jumpers are doing to make sure they soar at the 2010 Vancouver games. Youll be rooting for them by the end. Our features are guaranteed to give you a little pick-me-up for these short days. If youre looking for a literal pick-me-up, check out Whole Health, which gives the lowdown on how power naps can do just that. And we couldnt leave out a sweet treat: Full is about the virtues of chocolate, definitely a womans best friend on a cold winter day. So get comfortable, settle in, and enjoy the sunshine.

Christian Nardi

reAders PollHas our economy put a damper on your outdoor activities?

Yes, i dont travel as far to get active outdoors: 29%

Yes, im not buying new gear or apparel this year: 27%

no, i try to economize in other ways so i can keep playing outdoors: 31%

no, im luckythe economic situation hasnt affected me yet. 12%

REaDERs sToRYWhen my four kids were little, it was a good day when I could go to the bathroom without someone banging on the door. I solved all their problems, from skinned knees to bruised feelings. These days the tables have turned. Im the one knocking on closed bedroom doors and insisting the kids take a break from their friends and spend time together as a family. My oldest son, Ryan, had morphed from a good-natured, mile-a-minute-talker who loved helping with the little kids into an angry young man who balked at sitting down for a family dinner. He wanted to argue about everything. Casting about for an activity we could do together, I saw an ad for a half-marathon training team for a local charity. That was it: Ryan and I could help a good cause and in the process spend time together. After I told him the half-marathon was in Phoenix in January, Ryans eyes flickered. He hates East Coast winters as much as I do. He was in. Throughout the fall and early winter, Ryan and I were regulars at the neigh-borhood park. Most of the time, he would grunt one-syllable responses to my questions, so after a while Id shut up and wed jog in silence. But, still, he continued to show up every weekend. In mid-January we set off for Phoe-nix. Race day would eventually turn sunny and warm, but at dawn at the starting line the air was crisp and the mood was tense. Ryan wore a smile. A genuine smile that lit up his eyesthose deep, chocolate-brown eyes that used to look at me in adoration. At that moment I knew the guys up front would never catch me. I had already won this race.

Margo McDonough

To submit your own readers story, go to our website.

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the dIrtPeople, Places, and things from our outdoor World

On October 7, 2008, Carrie Holmes, 30, and a team of international skydivers became the first to skydive from above Mount Everest. With oxygen tanks and custom high-altitude jumpsuits, the 16-person team broke a world record when they jumped from above the summit and landed in the highest drop zone everat 12,350 feet in the nearby village of Syangboche.

divinG fRom heaven

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When I heard about the Everest skydive, I was immediately intrigued and wanted to be a part of it. I try to have goals to further my skills on every jump. In an effort to continue to learn, I often jump with more-experienced jumpers and seek out feedback and advice from those in the dropzone. I became a part of the (Everest) jump team in December 2007. I have always been an active individual, but [to prepare] I upped the workout program, sought exercise advice from my trainer Josh Morse, and incorporated hiking on a regular basis. Because the Everest skydive required oxygen, which I had never used on a regular basis before, I took a course on aerospace physiological training that discussed the effects of hypoxia on the body. SkyDance SkyDiving in Davis, California, offered a HALO (high-altitude low-opening) program, so I traveled there to experience jumping with full oxygen equipment. I had previously lived at altitude, so I knew I was easily susceptible to altitude sickness. To acclimate, the Everest skydive team met in Katmandu and then flew to Lukla the main starting point for treks through the Himalayas. From Lukla we trekked for eight days, stopping each night at local villages. Then we headed to the dropzone at Syangboche. It was the first time a plane had landed in Syangboche since the early 1990s. We were all staring down the valley, just waiting to see a plane. Finally, we saw a helicopter followed by an airplane, and we all cheered. Shortly after the plane arrived, a Russian M17 helicopter arrived with barrels of aviation fuel. Each solo diver did two jumps. The first jump was from 18,000 feet, with only a five-second freefall before pulling the canopy. The intent was to familiarize us with the equipment and the landing area. The second jumpthe big jumpwas from 29,500 feet. As the plane flew to altitude, I was trying to take in the moment and engrave the images on my brain so I would never forget. We flew close to Everest, and the scenery was jaw dropping. As we approved jump altitude, we switched from the oxygen system in the plane to our personal oxygen bottles. Chris Parsons and I were doing the first-ever two-way, meaning the two of us were linked on exit and held hands during freefall. Once Chris and I were linked, he gave a count of three and we exited the plane. We freefell for about 60 seconds before pulling our parachutes. The canopy ride was about five minutes before we reached the ground. On the 29,500-foot jump, the clouds came in after we exited the aircraft, and they covered the landing area. The moment I realized that I was going to have to find an alternative landing area was not a good feeling. I ended up landing above the dropzone on uneven terrain and sustained injuries: a compound fracture of my left ankle and a fracture in my lumbar area. The event was huge to the country of Nepal because there had never before been skydiving there. It was the farthest I had ever traveled and the longest holiday I had ever taken. It was the world record. And it was the first time these jumps were attempted. There arent many firsts left in the world, and it is great to be a part of something so rare.

As told to Bryn Fox

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Base LayersUnderwear. Worn next to skin, you want it to be comfy, resilient, and good for you. With the recent influx of natural fibers that give technical synthetics a run for their money, polyester is no longer our only option. So what should we wear under there? Here is a brief rundown of some of your best options.

safety First!Chances are at least once in a while you find yourself lacing up your running shoes after the sun has gone down. Take the advice of Keith and Kevin Hansen, founders of the Hansen-Brooks Original Distance Project (ODP) and coaches to the top elite runners in the United States, to stay safe while sweating after dark:

Make yourself visible to traffic by wearing reflective clothing (flashing lights clipped to your clothes also work).

Always run against traffic so you can see oncoming cars.

Run with a buddy. Both of you can be on the lookout for traffic, and it will make it easier for traffic to spot you.

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Pro ConWool Can be soft and absorbent (great

for perspiration or precipitation) with excellent temperature-regulating qualities.

Comes from sheep (vegans beware) and can be scratchy. Shrinks if you throw it in the dryer.

Cotton Natural and durable, can be organic (look for the label). Comes from plants.

100 percent cotton wrinkles easily, stretches significantly when wet, and holds its wetness.

BAmBoo Cheaper and stronger than silk yet with a similar drape. Wrinkle resistant, shrinkage resistant, breathable, and can be washed and dried. Anti-bacterial by nature and a very renewable resource.

Bamboo manufacturing is currently done in China, where environmental practices do not always ensure healthy processing from plant to fabric.

Polyester Can be recycled and often already has been (look for the label). Wicking, fast drying, and wrinkle resistant.

Can be scratchy, often smells when you sweat in it if it hasnt been treated with anti-odor. Not a natural fiber.

Another reason to turn off the tVA recent study published in the Journal of Consumer Research suggests that when faced with images that cause us to think of our own mortality, such as watching crime shows on TV, we tend to spend more money. When our own death seems imminent, Americans start comparing ourselves with others in society, and this comparison ultimately leads us to start buying things and eating more to show our worth. So put down the remote. It will save not only your body but your bank account too.

GOTTA hAvE


All-WeAtHer tunesRain or shine, you gotta have your trusty tunes. For a little zone-out time, no matter what the weather or your sport of choice, try out the new waterproof, glare-proof MP3 player from Freestyle Audio. Hitting the shelves now, the limited-edition Soundwave is totally submersible up to 10 feet, so you can use it worry-free in the pool and in the rain. This durable, skip-proof device is Bluetooth compatible, has a battery that lasts up to 15 hours, and has a cool new technology that ensures you can see the screen even in direct sunlight. The best part? This take-everywhere gadget is feather light but still holds 4 GB of your fav tunesabout 1,000 songs. So load up on whatever gets you moving. We wont tell. Whats on your Soundwave is between you and your earbuds. $85. www.freestyleaudio.com

does the Cold Affect your Workout?Have you ever wondered about how your body handles cold weather physiologically? Is there a metabolic difference between exercising in cold weather versus warm? We asked Damian Sorce, MD, a Denver-based urologist who just completed his fourth marathon, how temperature affects the bodyand how to protect yourself in colder climes. Maintain an optimum temperature. For intense aerobic exercise, the upper fortieslow fifties is an optimum temper-ature, says Dr. Sorce. When you dip below that, you worry about the risk of extremities being compromised; and when you exercise in warmer temperatures, dehydration is always a danger. Cover your head. Mom always said that heat loss occurs mostly through the head. True? According to Dr. Sorce, it is

indeed. Research has found that at rest your body does not emit more heat through your head than any other part of your body, but once you start to exercise (shivering counts, too) circulation is increased to your brain, and it raises the amount of heat lost through your head from 7 percent (at rest) to 55 percent. The takeaway? Dr. Sorce says wearing a hat is critical when exercising in the cold. Dont get cold feet (and hands). Physiologically, when your body needs to cool off, the blood goes to the skin and the extremities. The opposite is true when it is cold and the body needs to conserve heat. All the blood goes to the core and large muscle groups. So, if youre exercising in cold weather, be aware of protecting your hands and feet. In addition to a hat, wear gloves and warm, dry shoes.

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OUT ThERE

HeAltHy retreAtsThe New Year is here, and after a season of holiday chaos you are probably craving a little me time to get you back on track. Whether you have an hour or a week, $20 or $2,000, a healthy new you awaits at one of these fabulous holistic retreats.

Breitenbush, oregon

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If you Are . . . on a BudgetBREITEnBusH, oREgonAt this rustic community set among 154 acres of the Willamette National Forest, Breitenbush hosts 150 different workshops ranging in topics from yoga to singing. Nightly fees include lodging, three organic vegetarian meals, and access to the natural hot springs.

Alternative way to visit: Once a month Breitenbush offers a traditional sweat lodge free of charge and open to anyone. Call ahead to reserve a space and be prepared to bring an offering to the leader of the ceremony.

Lodging ranges from $50 for a bunk to $96 for a cabin with a private bath. www.breitenbush.com

If you Are . . . ready to Pay the Price for Peace but not Break the Bankojo CaLIEnTE, nEW MExICoNestled in the spiritual mecca of northern New Mexico, the Ojo Caliente resort was deemed sacred ground by the indigenous American Indians. The 1,100-acre property has trails on which to wander and mineral pools in which to soak. Get down and dirty in the mud bath, reserve a private pool for you and your honey, or get a massage.

Alternative way to visit: If you dont have the time for an extended stay, for $22 you can spend the day in the steam room, the mud bath, and the various mineral pools. Or stop in the resorts restaurant for a delicious vegan meal made from locally grown organic produce.

Lodging starts at $109. Full treatment packages start at $120. www.ojocalientesprings.com

If you Are . . . ready to splurgeEsaLEn, CaLIFoRnIaAlong the coast of northern California, the Esalen Institute, formerly known for teaching obscure topics to the likes of Aldous Huxley and Jack Kerouac, has evolved into the it spa. It is not uncommon to work on your inner peace while rubbing elbows with A-list celebs here. Though workshops are the biggest draw, you can also visit the meditation room or take a dance class.

Alternative way to visit: Massage appointments are available (usually on weekdays) for $165, and with your massage you can spend up to two hours soaking in the hot springs before and after your appointment. The hot springs are also available to the public by reservation from 1 to 3 a.m. for $20.

Prices start at $655 for a weekend workshop, including lodging. www.esalen.org

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appalachian trail: new and improvedWith the help of the Green Mountain Club, the Appalachian Trail has opened its fourth wheelchair-accessible locationthe only one in Vermont. The 900-foot boardwalk descends through the northern hardwood forest to the base of Thundering Falls and then passes through the open Ottauquechee River floodplain. The project took three seasons to complete and cost $400,000, which included drilling 80-foot piers into the floodplain for the boardwalk. The 2,175-mile-long Appalachian Trail stretches from Georgia to Maine. This newest section joins three other wheelchair-accessible areas, located in Falls Village, Connecticut; Vernon, New Jersey; and Shady Valley, Ten-nessee. A fifth location is under construction near West Point, New York. For more informa-tion about the Appalachian Trail, visit www.appalachiantrail.org.

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Classic schools of yoga trace their roots back thousands of years, but recently a proliferation of newer forms have emerged, often fusing yoga with other established disciplines. Contact yoga, yoga with weights, even pole-dancing yoga are new forms that are off-shoots of the more traditional practices. Here are three that could add a new, exciting dimension to your yoga routine:

YogaDanceFrom Massachusettss Kripalu Institute, YogaDance was formerly known as DansKinetics, which began in the early 1980s. In its early form, YogaDance was more like aerobics, with steps, starts, and stops; but in 1985 Megha Buttenheim started morphing YogaDance to incorporate more aspects of yoga and dancing. Participants often work in groups of two or more, and people recovering from diseases such as Parkinsons and forms of cancer have found the practice very therapeutic. I think of this as a yoga of the twenty-first century; its about reaching out and healing through joy, says Megha. If you are interested in YogaDance, check with a local yoga studio or visit www.kripalu.org.

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QiYogaStarted by Australian yogini Fiona Kaczmarczyk, this new form of yoga combines two ancient disciplines: qigong and hatha yoga. Qigong is a self-healing discipline from China and South Korea, which literally translates to energy (qi) skill (gong). QiYoga was created to combine the powers of qigongattracting qi into the body for restorative energy flow and cellular healingwith hatha yoga, which promotes balance and harmony in the body. Supporters believe that QiYoga blends the best of both disciplines, bringing stress reduction, healing, peace, and balance throughout the body. For more information go to www.qiyoga.org.

YogalatesThis blend of yoga with Pilates exercise was begun by another Australian, Louise Solomon. Pilates, started by Joseph Pilates in the 1920s, is known for building strength in the torso (or core strength) and increasing overall flexibility and stability. Combining the ancient spiritual practice of hatha yoga with Pilates is meant to enhance strength, stamina, aerobic capacity, flexibility, balance, and mental clarity. For more information go to www.yogalates.com.au.

Each winter a cashmere snow blankets our 12 legendary ski resorts. The mountains of snow stand in crystalline contrast to the brilliant blue lake that they surround. Its an unforgettable setting, where sunny slope-side days are topped by evenings of gaming, music and ski-town adventures. Log-on or call for fl ights and shuttle details.

GoTahoeNorth.com I 800.Tahoe4ULake Tahoe, awarded the #1 U.S. destination with TripAdvisor and #1 winter destination with Orbitz.com.

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ditCh the JunKDirect mail adds more than 5 million tons of paper to U.S. landfills every year, according to environmental nonprofit organization Center for a New American Dream (CNAD). This translates to 1.5 trees per household per yearor more than 100 million trees. Further, according to CNAD, Americans will spend eight months opening junk mail over a lifetime and collectively spend $370 million each year getting rid of it. Here are some ways to help you green up your mailbox:

DIRECT MaRkETIng assoCIaTIon. Register with the mail preference service, and your national mail will decrease by 75 percent. This free service could take up to five months to take effect, but your preferences will be set for five years, and the organization will track your address change if you move. www.dmachoice.org

CaTaLog CHoICE. If youre unindated by masses of unwanted catalogs, this free service is for you. Start by collecting the catalogs youre mailed that you dont want, and then click on the Web sites extensive list of participating catalogs to stop the mailings. It takes about 12 weeks to take effect. www.catalogchoice.org

gREEnDIMEs. Matt Damon was so impressed with this service he joined the board. Sign up for a free or premium $20 membership, and Greendimes guarantees 90 percent less junk mail in 90 days. Theyll even plant a tree for every member. www.greendimes.com

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The infection rate of HIV and AIDS in Namibia hovers around 20 percent, and many of those affected by the disease have no access to medical care. The average inhabitant lives more than 12 miles from the nearest health-care facility, and without roads the difficult trip means that a vast majority of Namibians wont get the medical attention they need. Enter the Bicycle Empowering Network, or BEN Namibia, a nonprofit organization designed to bring transportation and health care in the form of two-wheeled all-terrain bikes. BEN Namibia supplies bicycles and repair kits to various grass-roots organizations to be used for things like home care for people living with AIDS. They supply bike ambulancessteel-frame bikes with removable stretchersso patients can access health care in case

ride a Bike. save a life.

ACTIOn

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of an emergency, and they give bikes to children in remote areas so that they can attend school. Volunteers and staff then teach local residents the art of bike mechanics, which in turn creates new jobs in the community. Alongside the community efforts, BEN Namibia has formed a racing team of the nations most up-and-coming young riders to promote cycling in Africa and AIDS and HIV awareness. Through Team BEN Namibia, the nation is teaching young residents the importance of a healthy lifestyle. For more info or to send an old bike or a monetary donation, go to http://benbikes.org.za/namibia.

training in bicycle ambulance repair, maintenance, and safe use in Kavango

Mountain Hardwear Mynx

windstopper.com

tHe nortH Faceisabeau

MarMotaFter burner

2009 W. L. Gore & Associates, Inc. WINDSTOPPER, GORE and designs are trademarks of W. L. Gore & Associates.

WINDSTOPPER Technical Fleece keeps you comfortable with the freedom of movement you need for enhanced performance in a wide range of activities and weather conditions.

total windproofness.Maximum breathability.

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11.12.2008

WL Gore

G2436

WS Tech Fleech

Womans Adventure

Jan/Fec

4/C

.125

8.375 x10.875t r i m

Womens j Adventure

FREE STUFF

Free your arms! Gain mobility without losing warmth with this technical vest from Marmot. The Furlong Vest is made of a stretchy soft-shell fabric that repels rain and snow while still being breathable, so it doesnt trap sweat inside. The light fleece liner keeps you cozy, while the abrasion-resistant fabric ensures youll be sportin your vest for many seasons to come. Dont let the fashionable faux-fur collar fool you. This baby is ready for anything. Available in sizes XS to XL, the Furlong Vest comes in five colors and retails for $125. But you can win yours for free by going to www.womensadventuremagazine.com/marmot13 by February 28. The winner will be announced March 15.

the Perfect Layer

beat Cabin feveRWhen youre facing another day inside with your children, and your bag of tricks is running empty, stir up some icky, sticky fun. Here are some tried-and-true, make-it-at-home things to play with for those days when a certain fever is taking over your cabin.

Play-doughThis is a recipe for smooth play-dough that, if stored in the refrigerator in an airtight container, can last up to two weeks. When you are finished cooking the play-dough, you can divide the batch and make different colors.

4 cups flour1 cup salt4 cups water4 tablespoons oil cup cream of tartar

Mix all ingredients in a saucepan. Cook and stir over low/medium heat until play-dough is completely formed and no longer sticky. It will be stiff, so use a strong wooden spatula.

Add food coloring to desired color saturation.

GakIf you dont know what gak is, think slime. Its bouncy, squishy, and a lot of fun to play with. You can make opaque gak as well as a see-through variety with or without glitter.

2 cups Elmers glue*

2 cups waterFood coloring1 tablespoons Borax

In a bowl, mix together the glue and 1 cups of water. Add the food coloring and mix to desired color saturation. In a separate bowl, mix the remaining 1 cup of water and the Borax. Combine the two mixtures and mix well.

* White glue makes opaque gak, and clear glue makes it translucent. Both are fun!

KIdS CORnER

THEN: Suzy Chaffee began racing at age six. My first coach told me I was a pretty little thing but was never going to make it, says Suzy. His put-down was a great gift because I

wasnt all that aggressive normally, so his words were the kick I needed. The Vermont native set out to prove her coach wrong, and at age 24 competed as the top American skier at the 1968 Grenoble Olympics. Although she didnt come home with a medal, Suzy captured worldwide attention competing in a silver ski suit that Mademoi-selle magazine had designed for her. Suzy used her celebrity as a springboard for social activism. She championed Title IX legislation, fighting for equal opportunities for women in school sports. She was the first female to join the board of the U.S. Olympic Committee, and she served as a member of the Presidents Council on Physical Fitness under four U.S. presidents. Back on the mountain, she took up freestyle skiing immediately following the 1968 Olympics and went on to become a three-time World Freestyle champion. Suzy also starred in a decades worth of television commercials as the Chapstick poster girl and was inducted into the U.S. Ski Hall of Fame in 1988.

NOW: Today 62-year-old Suzy resides in Tucson, Arizona. She devotes most of her time to the Native American Olympic Team Foundation (NAOTF), which she co-founded in 1995. NAOTF aims to welcome the tribes back to their ancestral lands to ski, snow-board, and share their sustainable wisdom. Through the organization, Native American youth will be able compete in the Winter Olympics as sovereign nations. They are currently seeking potential Olympians to participate. These kids have a chance to develop their talent, Suzy explains, just like the Title IX March in 1975 gave women a chance. And, yes, you can still find Suzy Chapstick on the slopes, teaching ski ballet, a form of skiing that she invented.

Jayme Otto

SpOTLIGhT

suzY Chaffee

the dIrt

ExpEriEncE morE...

La Sportiva Ultranord GTX XCR

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footwear, biomechanics are important,

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2008 W. L. Gore & Associaes, Inc. GORE-TEX, XCR , GTX, GUARAnTEEd TO KEEP YOU dRY, GORE and designs are trademarks of W. L. Gore & Associates.

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10.1.08

WL Gore

G2425

La Sportiva

Womens Adventure

Nov/Dec

4/C

none

2.25 x 9.75T r i m

BEAd FOR LIFEBeadforLife is a nonprofit organization based in Boulder, Colorado, that works to eradicate poverty in Uganda by providing a means for women to sell a product to support themselves and their families. Sign up for a BeadforLife party and you will receive everything needed to host a gathering complete with beautiful jewelry, great food, and even music. At no cost (just a credit card to check out the supplies), youll receive the products to sell, a DVD featuring the beaders and their stories, Ugandan recipes to cook some indigenous dishes, and a CD with African music. All you need to choose is the wine. The beads are colorful and relatively inexpensive, ranging from $5 to $15 for bracelets and $10 to $30 for necklaces.

For more information go to www.beadforlife.org.

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Womens j Adventure

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Nike Air Pegasus+ 25 GTX

GORE-TEX Footwear withXCR Product Technology

in thEcomfort

ZonE:pErcEption vs. rEality

A runners perceived comfort plays an important part in maintaining the strong

physical and mental state needed to perform at peak. Discomfort

can quickly become a distraction, potentially diverting energy and causing performance to suffer.

The solution is GORE-TEX

Footwear with XCR Product Technology. Runners of all levels need breathable footwear, which prevents excessive heat and moisture buildup

during high activity and warmer conditions, while blocking all external

water. The result is more focus on running, less time worrying about comfort.

Shop for trail running shoes from Nike and learn more

at gore-tex.com

2008 W. L. Gore & Associaes, Inc. GORE-TEX, XCR, GTX, GUARANTEED TO KEEP YOU DRY, GORE and designs are trademarks of W. L. Gore & Associates.

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10.1.08

WL Gore

G2425

Nike Pegasus

Womens Adventure

Nov/Dec

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none

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the dIrt

Womens j Adventure

deveLoPed in the 1970s, skate-skiing is a fast, high-intensity workout. Unlike classic cross-country skiing, which follows two grooved parallel trails, skate-skiing is done on a groomed track, and the skis are used in a diverging fashion (out to the side at a V angle), says Mia Stockdale, owner of the Vail Nordic Center and a cross-country ski instructor. It is very similar to the motion of in-line skating or ice skating but used with poles. Curious? Heres how to get going.

GETTInG STARTEdSkate-skiing is, for the most part, performed on groomed trails at Nordic centers. To find a Nordic center near you, visit the Cross Country Ski Areas Association Web site at www.xcski.org.

fitnessSkate-skiing requires a good fitness base. Cycling, running, hiking, swimming, and in-line skating will help with this, says Mia, basically, anything that keeps the heart rate up for a sustained amount of time.

GearThe skis are totally different from cross-country skis, says Mia. Skate-skis are fit according to your weight only, not your height. The boots have more support around the ankle and are higher than classic cross-country boots, and the poles come up to between your bottom lip and chin. The proper clothing is very important. Dress in light layers with clothing that breathes, advises Mia. Gloves, socks, and hats made specifically for cross-country skiing are great because they are the right weight and breathability.

basicsThere is a lot of technique to master in skate-skiing, so its important to take a couple of lessons at first. Many Nordic centers offer women-only clinics and programs and are very reasonably priced, says Mia. Until that first lesson or clinic, here are a few basics to get you started.

Practice on dry land. Practice the skating motion statically (standing still) to get the balance, feel, and technique of skate-ski-ing. Put your skis in a V and then transfer all your weight onto your right ski. With a flexed ankle and knee, square your shoul-ders to the tip or your ski and line up your nose, knees, and toes so that they are in a straight line and your right ski is flat. Then tip your right ski on the inside edge (the left edge), flex your ankle and knee even more, and push off that ski onto your left ski. Here again, on the left ski, make sure your ankles and knees are flexed, your shoulders are square to the tip of your ski, and your nose, knees, and toes are aligned. Focus your eyes down the track.

Focus on weight transfer. Once you get the feel of your balance and weight transfer in that static exercise, says Mia, try the basic skating motion without poles on a flat trail. Transfer that weight to the right ski and glide on that flat ski. Then push off the right ski from the inside edge, transfer your weight to the left ski, and glide on the left flat ski. If you find it hard to get momentum forward without poles, add them for a little propulsion forward. The important thing initially is to be able to transfer that weight totally from ski to ski and to get some glide on each flat ski.

tAkInG It to tHe next leVelOnce youve gotten the hang of it, training as many days per week as possible is key to getting to the next level, says Mia. Also, video analysis is a great way to improve because you can watch yourself, and the video makes it easy to see what to work on. Other ways to improve your skate-skiing techniques are:

Race. Pick a race or two. It makes you ski faster than you nor-mally would and improves your fitness. They are superfun as well and are a great way to meet other skiers. For races near you, check www.xcski.org.

Intervals. Perform intervals (hard effort of one minute or more, followed by an active recovery period). Do them on the flats one day and on the hills the next. A couple days of intervals per week are plenty.

Go poleless. Skate without poles. This improves your efficiency, and you learn to not rely so heavily on your upper body for strength and propulsion.

Hit the gym. Work out at the gym. Core work (abs and lower back) is key. Also, creating upper-body balance and strength will help you progress quickly on your skis. Work all the upper-body musclesback, chest, shoulder, biceps, and tricepsbut keep in mind that your front and rear shoulder and triceps get the most use.

The Dirt is reported and edited by Bryn Fox and Mariko LeBaron.

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Salomon XA Pro Ultra 3DGORE-TEX Footwear withXCR Product Technology

in thEcomfort

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a hand

The engineers at Gore know that the hands and feet play a large role in managing body temperature during

running. While runners can pull gloves off and on as conditions dictate, they

need shoes that allow the body to achieve a thermophysiological balance

across a range of conditions: cold, warm, wet and dry.

The solution is GORE-TEX Footwear with XCR Product Technology, which allows the feet to manage temperature and humidity while

remaining protected from weather and wet ground conditions.

Shop for trail running shoes from Salomon and learn more

at gore-tex.com

2008 W. L. Gore & Associaes, Inc. GORE-TEX, XCR GUARANTEED TO KEEP YOU DRY, GORE and designs

are trademarks of W. L. Gore & Associates.

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WL Gore

G2425

Salomon

Womens Adventure

Nov/Dec

4/C

none

2.25 x 9.75T r i m

7Womens j Adventure

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Womens j Adventure

by Kristin bjornsen

Girl in a bubble

its personal

tales from the wilderless

the writer, front, steps over a crevasse while descending Perus mount huascarn.

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I DONT WANT TO TAKE DIAMOx, I told my climbing partners before we headed to Peru to climb Huascarn, the countrys highest peak, at 22,200 feet. Diamox, aka acetazolamide, accelerates your breathing rate and helps prevent or treat altitude sickness. My declaration was met with silence, then outrage. If I had wanted to ascend the peak naked, using a giant candy cane for an ice ax and a Victorias Secret thong as a climb-ing harness, their reaction couldnt have been much different. Why wouldnt you use Diamox? they asked incredulously. Itll help you acclimatize to the altitude. I felt that for all my 27 years, my body had acclimatized fine on its own. Using a drug prophylactically seemed like cheating, la steroids. My six partners, however, felt that I was being pigheadedly principled and possibly jeopardizing the success of the team by not using every tool at hand. Amazingly, the small Diamox pill fomented gallons of bad blood between us. (One partner, even now after the trip, barely speaks to me.) Im not sure who was right. Is it cheating to use a drug that speeds up acclimatization? What about, on bigger peaks, using supple-mental oxygen, fixed lines, and porters to carry everything, including the kitchen sink? What bright line separates clean ascents from sleazy ones? I wont pretend to answer that. Mountain-eers debate these questions ad nauseam, and the same gray area exists in every sport: baseball, cycling, track and fieldyou name it. Yet these questions point to a larger trend: a growing mistrust of the bodys ability to adapt. We rely on high-tech bling instead of innate coping mechanisms. Functions the body has performed dandily for thousands of years are outsourced to technology. The question is, As the body becomes obsolete, are we losing these adaptive abilities? I think I am. A typical Saturday hike: My temperature-controlled car takes me from my temperature-controlled house to the trailhead. I button up my windproof, water-resistant, breathable, zip-pit jacket; throw on my ergonomic, extralightweight backpack with internal CamelBak; and slather on SPF 75 noncomedogenic sunscreen. Our trekking poles click-clacking with an insectlike noise, my friends and I trounce up the trail (itself perfectly groomed except for a few muddy patches, at which spots people have cut to the side of the trail to avoid dirtying their boots).With my friends GPS-equipped, e-mailcapable, heart-rate-monitoring cell phone, we could, if so inclined, ascend blindfolded and, at the summit, order a low-fat, gluten-

free, one-third pepperoni, one-third veggie, one-third pineapple-but-no-onions pizza to be delivered to the trailhead. All dogs met on the trail are kept docile and perfectly well be-haved on leashes, their puppyish exuberance tethered to our yeomanlike trudge. No wonder

the Sherpas in the Himalayas call us butter people for the way we melt at the first sign of inclement conditions. We dont confine our domestication efforts to just ourselves either: a 2007 Science study found that less than 17 percent of the earths land remains wild. And with all that, still, my gear geekiness pales in comparison with that of most out-doorsy people I know. Thats not to say todays adventure athletes are weaker than those of the wool-and-leather, pre-Gore-Tex days of Edmund Hillary. On the contrary, every day athletes are inventing new and remarkable ways to suffereverything from climbing El Capitans Nose twice in 24 hours, to running 250-mile marathons, to hucking off enormous waterfalls, to someday being the first (toddler/centenarian/potbellied pig) to ascend Everest (on a unicycle/while talking on an iPhone/while nakedoh, wait, that last one already happened). Clearly people are as hardcore and masochistic as ever. But we may be too bionic for our own good. What happens when that technology fails: the GPS goes haywire, the camp stove breaks, and the down jacket falls in the river? Of course, wilderness survival skillsalso often forgot-ten in the high-tech whirligigcome in handy. More than that, the body itself habituates amazingly well. At altitude, red blood cell pro-duction and breathing rates amp up, allowing us to survive at Mount Everests base camp, for example, with 50 percent less oxygen than

at sea level. In the cold, muscles warm the body by shivering, which doubles or triples the basal metabolic rate. In the heat, our million-plus sweat glands can produce 2 to 3 liters of sweat per hour. Without food, the body can often live for two months on fat reserves. Most of these adaptations get more efficient with repeated exposure and practice, although they still require time to kick in and the mental fortitude to grunt it out until they do. Gary Neptune, a climbing icon in Boulder, Colorado, gave a talk at a winter mountain-eering class I took. Some of his advice? This winter, dont wear gloves when scraping your windshield. On your next hike, dont GU it, dont gorp it, dont eat anything at all and see how you do. Go barefoot for a day. These and other deprivations that take you out of your comfort zone help you trust your body and its ability to deal. Adding credibility to Garys words was the slideshow on his technical winter ascent of the Diamond of Longs Peak with only a can of mandarin oranges for sustenance. While Im not sure Im hardcore enough to follow the Neptune Way (I have a fetish for food), Im trying to mimic it somewhat, espe-cially after the Peru trip. I felt like a princess, with the porters jackknifed under the weight of our gear. The luggage contained essentials like tents and carabiners, but it also contained a glut of coffee filters, spare socks, and novels. Okay, maybe I didnt feel like a princessmore like a pig. On one occasion, the porter, Juan, 55, was worried about another porter, Tito, who had stayed back with our teammate, Brad, to show him the trail through thick eucalyptus trees. Juan fretted about where the two of them were. Do you want to call them on the radio? we asked in pidgin Spanish. This idea was to fail majestically. He looked at the contraption suspiciously and then shouted into it as if calling down a long hallway: Tito! Tito! No matter how we tried, we couldnt, with our Spanglish, get him and Tito to work the buttons right. They pushed the talk button when they should have released it, and they released it when they should have pressed it. After several frustrat-ing tries, Juan abandoned the radio in disgust, climbed atop a boulder, and whistled for Tito. An answering whistle came from above. Prob-lem solved. No batteries required. As for the Diamox? I ended up taking it. Prophylactically. Ill always wonder if I still would have made the summit without it. But what can I say? Everyone was doing it. And the first pill was free.

What happens when technology fails:

the GPs goes haywire, the camp stove breaks, and

the down jacket falls in the river?

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our intrepid reporter goes on assignment to find out the truth: Can elite athletes actually make good boyfriends?

my Pseudo-date with an extreme adventurer

by elisabeth Kwak-hefferan

ANDREW SKURKA IS A HORRIBLE BOY-FRIEND. I know this because of something he said about halfway through our first date, a hike up one of the pointy foothills framing Boulder, called Bear Peak: Im a horrible boyfriend. This is a shame because Andrew Skurka is smokin hot. Not just looks-wise (hes been compared to Tom Cruise, but its more like Mark Wahlberg with a dash of Eagle Scout); hes hot because hes a true adventurer. This is a guy whos so great at wilderness travel that he actually gets paid to backpacka guy whos hiked upward of 19,000 mind-boggling miles in the past four years and who runs ultramarathons when hes not plotting to rescue the world from climate change. Hes as inspiring as he is drool inducing. If you want to get technical, we werent on a real date. I was there as a writer, not a girl, and anyway he does have a girlfriend (Anya, a lovely lady whose taste in men must tend toward the masochistic). Andrew, 27, had agreed to take me on one of his typical first dates to help me ponder a double-edged ques-tion: Can obsessed, high-achieving adventur-ers really be fantastic boyfriends too? And, if not, why are they still so damn attractive? (Cmon, who among you hasnt met a climber/skier/mountaineer/whatever whose muscled excellence made you bite your lip and sigh?)Thats how I found myself following his Grecian-sculpture calves up a brutally steep trail one Sunday afternoon. The fact that hed placed second in the Leadville 100 (as in 100 miles) a week before had slowed him down enough to give me a fighting chance of matching his pace. As we hiked it became clear that dating ber-athletes isnt like dating bankers or teachers or even the dude who works at the bike shop. First, theres the worrisome fitness quotient: How can I ever keep up with him? Do cardio all-stars like Andrew even look twice at women without freakish VO2 maxes? His take: surewhats important is a love of the outdoors and a willingness to go out and play. But Andrew does employ a rigorous vetting process, and he likes to start on the first date. Turns out Im the fourth girl hes marched up this very peak. Pass the athletic prowess test, though, and youve still got to deal with a sticky truth:


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the very same ones that suck us in like magnets. Theyre passionate, exciting, and dazzlingly good at what they doa potent combination. And when that single-minded intensity turns its high beams on you, well . . .

Reaching the treeline, we scrambled for the summit. Boulder hummed beneath us; the Indian Peaks soared just ahead. Even after

to a guy who pours everything into being an exceptional adventurer, you will always come in second. Andrew, at least, doesnt deny it. Sometimes I feel like Im throwing a Hail Mary with women, he said. Every last one of his relationships has hit the skids because of his all-consuming hunger for unexplored terrain, and were not talking the your-body-is-a-wonderland variety. Part of it is that hes simply gone most of the time. In the four months hes been with Anya, hes traveled to the Sierra Nevadas, Iceland, Seattle, Yel-lowstone National Park, Portland, and Brit-ish Columbia. Even when hes around, hes obsessing over his next big project. At heart Im a good guy, he said, but its difficult for women to carve themselves a piece of this lifestyle. And Anya? Anya is a girl who deserves to be treated like a queen, and Im not the guy to do it. Hmm. Does this mean its best to steer way, way clear of these extreme adventurers? Anya told me to check back in a few months: Maybe then Ill say, Dont bother.Oh, but you know we will bother. The quali-ties that make elite athletes hard to love are

Cmon, who among

you hasnt met a climber/

skier/mountaineer/

whatever whose muscled

excellence made you bite

your lip and sigh?

all Andrew had told me, the spark between us was undeniable. No, seriously. Whats that sound? he asked. I heard it, too: my shoelaces were buzzing with electricitythe kind that portends a lightning strike, not imminent romance. As we turned tail and dashed for the safety of the trees, the hair around my face reached for the sky. Wow, he said when we found a sheltered spot. Thats never hap-pened to me before. Oh, me neither, Andrew.As the high-voltage cloud passed us by, I realized: Thats just it. Thats why these guys are irresistible: its the possibility, however remote, that lightning will strike, that youll be the one who finally tames his wanderlust and outranks the adrenaline fix on his prior-ity scale. We very rarely stop this lifestyle on our own, Andrew had mused earlier that day. Its always a woman. Some guys are just sucker-punched by a woman. So date an obsessed adventurer if you must. Hell probably break your heart, but maybe, just maybe, youll be his sucker-punching womanand thatll be an adventure for you both.

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from left: climbing in Red Rock country, nevada; miami beach; saint Lucia, Caribbean


Sure, we adore winter as much as you do, but lets face it: somewhere deep in even the best ski powder, all thoughts turn to warmth and sunshine. Ready to take a break from the white stuff? Park your skis (just for a while) and head someplace where the latitude and the longitude require sandals and a swimsuit.

By Debra Bokur


WHERE: MiaMi, FloRidaThanks to those steamy Latin influences, its always hot in Miami. What a lot of people dont know is that this vibrant city in the sun is really a collection of neighborhoods. Decide beforehand if you prefer easy ocean access, trendy South Beach, an animated city address, or a hip, quieter spot like Coconut Grove.

Local tip: Youve got to have a car. Taxis are expensive, and the bus system remains largely an unsolved mystery, even to residents.

Play here: Water-related activities, from sailing and kayaking to swimming and diving, are plenti-ful (www.playtimewatersport.com). In addition to the Atlantic Ocean bordering the east side of the city, theres also Biscayne Bay, inland waterway systems, and the enigmatic Everglades close by. Even if it sounds hokey, the Swim with Dolphins program at the Miami Seaquarium is actually pretty cool (www.miamiseaquarium.com). Before you meet the dolphins or get your feet wet, youll take a short course on safety (for the dolphins and you), etiquette, and issues faced by dolphins in the wild. Plan a leisurely stroll through the Art Deco area and Little Havana, with their colorful architecture and kitsch dcor. In Little Havana pause at one of the countless Cuban cafs for a bowl of beans and rice, served up with freshly baked rolls. For a different take on the city, sign on for a Moonlight Garden Tour of Vizcaya Museum & Gardens (www.vizcaya-museum.org).

Eat this: Wander over to Green Street Outdoor Lounge and Restaurant in Coconut Grove for Steves banana pancakes or a serving of choco-late French toast (www.greenstreetcafe.net). Its an area favorite, and youll know youre there when you see the sofas and easy chairs on the sidewalk in front. For something completely different, check out Afterglow for dinner (305 695 1717). Located in South Beach, its known for its Greek-Egyptian beauty cuisine and eclecti-cally healthy cocktails. Try the Beautiful Mind Salad with goji berries, coconut meat, and chai seed jelly.

Sleep here:$$$ Luxury: The Mayfair. Surrounded by shops, galleries, cafs, and restaurants in Coconut Grove. www.mayfairhotelandspa.com; 800 433 4555

$$ Midrange: Blue Moon Hotel. Mediterranean-style boutique hotel in the Art Deco district, close to South Beach. www.bluemoonhotel.com; 800 553 7739

$ Budget: Indian Creek Hotel. One block from the beaches, close to South Beach and the Art Deco district. www.indiancreekhotel.com; 305 531 2727

More info: www.miamiandbeaches.com

Note: Our lodging price breakouts follow this general rule per room per night: $ Budget, less than $100 $$ Midrange, $100 to $199 $$$ Luxury, $200 and up

The Coast

Condos overlooking Miami Beach

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WHERE: Tulum, MexicoCalling all chicas: Part of Mexicos Riviera Maya, this friendly coastal town, south of Cancun and across the water from Cozumel (perfect for day trips), is more than a beachy haven. There are also plenty of nightlife and attractions plus some pretty amazing archaeological sites. Get details on easy, cheap bus service to Tulum from the airport in Cancun at www.travelyucatan.com/tulum_mexico.php.

Local tip: Mexicos service people get a big kick out of being tipped with U.S. $2 bills, which they view as special. Because it seems to encourage better service, bring a stash with you.

Play here: The Mayan ruins and temples at Tulum Archaeological Park are area highlights, but it can get crowded. Go early in the day, which will allow you to miss both the crowds and the peak heat, and enjoy El Castillo (the Castle) and Templo del Dios Descendents (Temple of the Descending Gods) to the max. Once youve had your fill of history, walk directly down to the beach to swim, snorkel, or just take a long, warm nap. A short ride from Tulum, Sian Kaan Bio-sphere is a magical blend of lagoons, tropical forests, mangrove wetlands, and a 70-mile-long barrier reef. The area, under federal protection, is great for getting a true sense of the place. Just south of the Biosphere, there are great beaches for diving, swim-ming, and sunbathing. For clothing-optional sunbathing, head to Tulum Beach north of the Biosphere on the road to Boca Paila, where you can rent cabanas upon arrival and refresh yourself at small food stands that set up here each day.

Eat this: For Mexican fare in a rustic rain forest setting, head for Tun Tun, the beach bar at the Cabanas Copal Hotel, about a mile and a half from the ruins (www.cabanascopal.com). Besides the standards, the bar serves

great margaritaspractically a requirement for any authentic Mexican getaway. Casa Bananas, on the road to the Biosphere, has tasty takeaway but accepts only cash. At Zamass Que Fresco, you can enjoy local specialties, seafood, and wood-fired pizzas (www.locogringo.com/tulum/zamas.htm). Next door to the Zamas Bungalows on the road to the Biosphere, the restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Ohand have we mentioned the margaritas?

Sleep here:$$$ Luxury: Maya Tulum Wellness Retreat & Spa. Lush landscape, sandy beach, yoga,

ecotours, and a choice of garden rooms, ocean-view rooms, or beachfront cabanas. www.mayatulum.com; 888 515 4580

$$ Midrange: Om Tulum Hotel Cabanas and Beach Club. Natures the theme, along with affordable beachside harmony. www.tulum-playa.com; +52 984 114 0538

$ Budget: Zahra Hotel. Low-key ecoresort with 22 basic rooms and thatched-roof cabanas, set between two sandy beaches. www.zahra.com.mx; 1 888 898 9922

More info: www.travelyucatan.com/tulum_mexico.php

From top to bottom, left: Dining al fresco in the Miami Art Deco district; a Tulum, Mexico, white sand beach; right: Miami beach from above; Mayan ruins at Tulum Archaeological Park


The desert

Taking a ride over the Palm Springs desert

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Local tip: Nearly all Las Vegas hotels regu-larly run last-minute discounts on unbooked rooms, so check websites for super, last-minute deals.

Play here: Winter temps hover in the low- to mid-sixties by day and drop to a chilly 40 degrees F once the sun disappears over the sandy horizon. Desert outfitter Hike This! offers guided treks (private and group) through the nearby red rock country as well as rock-scrambling adventures with environ-mentalist and Nevada terrain veteran Neil Sobelson (www.hikethislasvegas.com). Take a swing through the desert landscape with Pink Jeep Tours, with excursions to Red Rock Canyon, Hoover Dam, the Valley of Fire, Death Valley, and Zion National Park (www.pinkjeep.com). Theres also some pretty good rock climbing nearby. For guides and rental gear, Desert Rock Sports on West Charleston Boule-vard can hook you up (www.climbvegas.com). Later enjoy the full charms of Vegas with the free Fremont Street Experience, where a stroll among 12.5 million lights gives you access to free concerts, street-side shows, and numerous special events year-round. You already know about the casino options, but Vegas is also a regular tour stop for major music and theatre acts. Check out show offerings before you go, as tickets disappear quickly and youll want to book in advance.

Eat this: The Peppermill Restaurant & Fire-side Lounge (on the north side of the Strip, close to the Riviera Hotel & Casino) is vintage Vegas at its best. Besides the giant fishbowl cocktails (share only if you want to), the res-taurants firepits, neon lights, and 70s vibe are yours to enjoy from breakfast through late, late night. Its diner food but with a more interesting backdrop. If you like it hot, Lotus of Siam (also near the Strip) is the place to go for authentic, award-winning Thai food. Dont be put off by the shabby exterioreven Gourmet magazine has given this restaurant accolades.

WHERE: PalM SPRingS, CaliFoRniaIf you think Palm Springs is just the default address for poodle-toting socialites recovering from their latest plastic surgery, think again. With 350 days of sunshine each year, this desert oasis is a pretty great base for experi-encing local natural hot springs, exploring serious desert terrain, and perfecting the art of pool lounging.

Local tip: Palm Springs is located within the Coachella Valley Preserve, an area cover-ing 13,000 acres. Besides the sand dunes, mesas, and hot springs located here, there are also networks of trails for hiking, cycling, and riding.

Play here: If you start missing the snow (really?), take the Palm Springs Aerial Tram-way up the slopes of Mount San Jacinto for a glimpse or to access the 54 miles of hiking trails of the Mount San Jacinto State Park and Wilderness (www.pstramway.com). For a birds-eye view of the landscape, Fan-tasy Balloon Flights offers sunrise and sunset champagne adventures in balloons flown by champion pilots (www.fantasyballonflights.com). Prefer terra firma? Bighorn Bicycles has electric bikes for rent (760 325 3367); you can pick up a map of bike trails at the Visitors Center (800 347 7746). Or take a jeep tour along the San Andreas Fault with Desert Adventures Jeep Eco-Tours (www.red-jeep.com). You might just feel the earth move.

Eat this: Azul, downtown on North Palm Canyon Drive, is the place to go for tapas (www.azultapaslounge.com). Try the spinach-artichoke flatbread and chicken pot stickers. Theres also a brunch menu and plenty of sandwiches and wraps. For dinner Zin Ameri-can Bistro on South Palm Canyon Drive has a good wine list and an interesting menu that includes braised free-range rabbit and tem-pura-battered squash blossoms stuffed with goat cheese (www.zinamericanbistro.com).

Sleep here:$$$ Luxury: Andalusian Court. A Spanish Revival inn, this historic property is located in the heart of downtown. www.theandalusiancourt.com; 888 947 6667

$$ Midrange: Chase Hotel. Near the posh shops on Palm Canyon Drive, with a heated saline pool and complimentary continental breakfast. www.chasehotelpalmsprings.com; 877 532 4273

$ Budget: El Rancho Lodge. Close to town, with a pool, standard rooms, cottages, and studios with kitchens. www.elrancholodge.com; 866 762 2465

More info: www.palm-springs.org

WHERE: LAS VEgAS, NEVADANot a high roller? Not a problem. Theres actually quite a lot to do in this glitzy oasis without the need for cards, heels, or feathery headgear. And, no, we cant promise that will involve either George Clooney or Brad Pitt.

Sleep here:$$$ Luxury: The Bellagio. Home to those fa-mous dancing fountains. www.bellagio.com; 888 987 6667

$$ Midrange: Red Rock Resort & Adventure Spa. Eight miles from the Strip, this resort sits at the edge of parkland and offers hiking, climbing, mountain biking, horseback riding, rafting, and kayaking. www.redrocklasvegas.com; 866 363 2872

$ Budget: Golden Nugget Hotel & Casino. Centrally located with easy access to the Strip. www.goldennugget.com; 800 634 3454

More info: www.visitlasvegas.com

From top: feeling strong on the trails around Palm Springs; red rock Canyon; the Hoover Dam

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WHERE: MAui, HAWAiiIf you equate the Hawaiian Islands with para-dise, we completely support your definition. While Maui may have a rep as the ultimate wedding/honeymoon getaway, its also a pretty amazing destination for a low-key winter retreat for solo travel or an escape with friends.

Local tip: You can take a dedicated whale-watching cruise, or, for a fraction of the cost, buy a ferry ticket for a day excursion to the nearby island of Lanai. Youll cross the same channel of water where the whale-watching boats cruise, and youll see the same whales.

Plus, youll get to spend the day snorkeling or swimming on the crowd-free beaches of Lanai, where it still feels like old Hawaii.

Play here: Drag yourself out of the ocean long enough to head inland to hike Iao Valley State Park (www.hawaiiweb.com/maui/html/sites/iao_valley_state_park.html). The parks lush landscape surrounds the Iao Needle, a tall rock pinnacle that was used as a sacred altar by early Hawaiians. Seasonal whale-watching cruises are offered by the Pacific Whale Foundations Eco Adventures (www.pacificwhale.org). Wherever theres a beach, youll find a host of concessionaires offering

kayaks, canoes, surfboard rentals or lessons, and scuba and snorkeling gear.

Eat this: For dinner head to the old whaling town of Lahaina. Make reservations in ad-vance for the waterfront restaurant IOowned and operated by chef James McDonald, who sources his own organic farm on the islands slopes for kitchen ingredients (www.iomaui.com). At Jawz Fish Tacos in Kihei on the southwest shore facing Maalaea Bay, you can watch an endless loop of surf videos while savoring an ahi taco and the best mango smoothie on the planet (www.jawzfishtacos.com).

The islands

Sunset over Soufrire Bay St. Lucia with Petit Piton and gros Piton in the background


Sleep here:$$$ Luxury: Wailea Beach Resort & Spa. Situated on the south side of the island, with two wonderful swimming beaches. www.waileamarriott.com; 808 879 1922

$$ Midrange: Hotel Hana-Maui. Located to-ward the end of the long and winding coastal road that leads to Hana, past all those breath-taking waterfalls. Rooms have views of Hana Bay. www.hotelhanamaui.com; 808 248 8211

$ Budget: Maui Seaside Hotel. Oceanfront property in central Maui on Kahului Bay. http://seasidehotelshawaii.com/HotelMaui.aspx; 800 560 5552

More info: www.visitmaui.com

WHERE: St. LuciA, WESt iNDiESPart of the Windward Islands in the West Indies Lesser Antilles, St. Lucia may be best known to Americans from the opening shots of the first Pirates of the Caribbean film, which features the islands famous twin peaksthe volcanic cones known as Petit Piton and Gros Piton. Its also a friendly, less-hectic alternative to Jamaica, with plenty of options for relaxation. English is the official language, and currency is the Eastern Carib-bean dollar (EC$).

Local tip: You dont necessarily need a car once you arrive, as the islands minibus service covers the 27-mile-long, 14-mile-wide landscapenot that this makes negotiating the many blind, hairpin curves any easier on your nerves, but at least someone whos more familiar with them is behind the wheel. If you do rent a vehicle, youll need to remember to honk often so that those on the other side of the curves will know youre there. Youll have to purchase an on-island drivers license at the airport (about EC$55) before picking up your rental.

Play here: Because St. Lucia is an island, all the usual water-related options are available, including great sea kayaking, scuba diving, and windsurfing. You can climb the Pitons and hike the 19,000 acres of rain forest, mountains, and valleys. More than 29 miles of established trails wend their way through this terrain, and guided hikes are available via the Forest and Lands Department (www.slumaffe.org/Forestry_Department/Rainfor est_Trails/rainforest_trails.html). Theres also a drive-in volcano thats home to natural

sulfur springs, plus plantation tours and the Diamond Waterfall and Mineral Baths in the islands southwest area. Jungle biking pro-vides a different point of view of the terrain, with varying levels of difficulty (www.bikest lucia.com). The capital city, Castries, and the town of Soufrire (near the Pitons) offer plenty in the way of cafs, dining, music, and nightlife, and each May the famed St. Lucia Jazz Festival hosts top acts from around the world (www.stluciajazz.org).

Eat this: The islands French-Creole history has a strong influence on the cuisine, so be sure to explore the many dining options. The Green Parrot above the harbor in Castries has a menu of West IndianCreole dishes, plus belly dancing and limbo (758 452 3399). For Caribbean fare and an extensive rum bar, try Tillys 2X4 in Rodney Bay (758 458 4440). For fresh seafood JJs Paradise in south Castries is relaxed, affordable, and frequented by localsalways a good sign (www.jj-paradise .com/dining.htm).

Sleep here:$$$ Luxury: Anse Chastanet. Two beaches and romantic treehouse-like rooms. www.ansechastanet.com; 800 223 1108

$$ Midrange: La Mirage. Family-run guest-house in Soufrire, just two blocks from the Soufrire Waterfall. 758 459 7010

$ Budget: Oasis Marigot. Located on the hill above Marigot Bay. Rooms have kitchens, and theres a PADI dive center on-site. www.oasismarigot.com; 800 263 4202

More info: www.stlucia.org

Clockwise from top left: swimming with a sea turtle off the shores of Maui; Diamond waterfall on St. Lucia; Mauis palm-tree covered beaches

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The City

The Santa Monica pier at night


WHERE: AuStiN, tExASBring your boots to Austin and kick up some Texas dust. Renowned for its music scene, this lively city is also a great destination for outdoor sports and fabulous food.

Local tip: Austin has more than 200 music venues, hence its nickname: the Live Music Capital of the World. Vouchers to attend the famous television show Austin City Limits (which is taped in the Texas College of Communications Building B) are free on a first-come, first-served basis. Tapings are held irregularly throughout the year. To find out whats going on and when, call the Austin City Limits Hotline at 512 475 9077. Note: vouchers get you into line but dont guarantee entrance, as seating is limited.

Play here: Austin is a haven for strolling and is replete with cafs, music venues, great restaurants, and quirky shops. In the Warehouse District (Fourth and Fifth streets), buildings have been converted into chic nightspots. Head to nearby Sixth Street for dining, dance clubs, and live-music venues. Take a walk through the Catherine Lamkin Arboretum Trail of Trees along Boggy Creek, showcasing 35 different species. For cycling or hiking, head to McKinney Falls State Park or Pedernales Falls State Park (www.tpwd.state.tx.us). Within the city 15 miles of hiking and cycling trails border Ladybird Lake. The Barton Creek Greenbelt area is an 8-mile stretch that includes cliffs, rocky terrain, and plenty of swimming holes. Theres also the Veloway, a 3.1-mile loop for inline skating, cycling, and jogging (www.texasoutside.com).

Eat this: We bet youre thinking barbecue, so head to the County Line Bar-B-Q, where the everythings bigger in Texas concept presides over the servings (www.countyline.com). Youll swear the ribs came from a tyrannosaurus. For even more atmosphere, Ranch 616 has Texas-style barbecue, plus vegetarian options and live music with no cover charge (http://ranch616.ypguides.net). Try the crispy oyster sandwich on focaccia with field greens, or the Gulf fish tacos with chili lime and aioli.

Sleep here:$$$ Luxury: Driskill Hotel. This historic downtown property is swish Texas at its best. www.driskillhotel.com; 800 252 9367

$$ Midrange: Hyatt Regency Austin. Resort ambience, close to the entertainment district. www.austin.hyatt.com; 512 477 1234

$ Budget: Austin Motel. This family-owned motel is nicely located for city jaunts or access to the hiking and cycling trails. www.austinmotel.com; 512 441 1157

More info: www.austintexas.org

WHERE: SANtA MoNicA, cALifoRNiANothing says sunshine quite like southern California. The relaxed, beach-town atmo-sphere of Santa Monica offers sand, surf, and plenty of active options.

Local tip: Feel like flying? The Santa Monica Pier boasts aerial acrobatic views of the sea la the resident Trapeze School New York (http://losangeles.trapezeschool.com).

Play here: The long paved path running along the beach between the sea and Ocean Avenue is populated with joggers, stroll-ers, and skaters. The pier is popular with residents as well as visitors and houses an arcade, a carousel, shops, and an aquarium located just beneath the carousel at beach level. Just south of the beachside volleyball courts, you can check out the original Muscle Beach, where acrobats and gymnasts still work out in the spot made famous by Jack LaLanne and other bodybuilders. Schlepping your surfboard cross-country via the airlines can be pricey, so rent one instead at Perrys Cafe & Sports Rentals on the Promenade (310 485 3975). You can also rent inline skates instead of packing them. Try Rip City Skates

(www.ripcity.net) or Sea Mist Rentals (310 395 7076), both close to the beach. For a more cerebral workout, head to Chess Park, just south of Muscle Beach along Ocean Front Walk. Besides a human-sized chessboard, there are plenty of permanent chess tables free for public use. Santa Monica also has great, year-round farmers markets located on Main Street (Sundays), in Virginia Park (Sat-urdays), and on the Third Street Promenade (Wednesdays and Saturdays).

Eat this: Before heading to the beach, check in at Coras Caf on Ocean Avenue, just before you reach Pico Boulevard. The coffee shop interior is cramped, but theres great outdoor patio seating. Order your orange pancakes and freshly squeezed OJ from there. For lunch or dinner, head over to the Library Alehouse on Main Street for burgers, friendly service, and one of the 29 brews on draft (www.libraryalehouse.com), or try Buddhas Belly on Broadway for sweet chili shrimp or Singapore seafood noodles (www.bbfood.com).

Sleep here:$$$ Luxury: Casa del Mar. Star-worthy, steps from the beach, and with a spa and gourmet restaurants on-site. Go ahead and pretend youre there to option your latest script. www.hotelcasadelmar.com; 310 581 5533

$$ Midrange: Hotel California. The surfboard headboards on the beds may make you smile, but the beach access will have you grinning from ear to ear. www.hotelca.com/losangeles; 866 571 0000

$ Budget: Sea Shore Motel. Located on Main Street, within easy walking distance of the Pier, beach, and Promenade. www.seashoremotel.com; 310 392 2787

More info: www.santamonica.com

From left: looking up at downtown Austin; the Botanical gardens in Austins Zilker Park

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Dating in DuDeDom

The trials of being a single girl in a mountain town By kate Siber

illustrations by Britt udesen


ommon wisdom around Durango, Colorado, holds that there are three main roads into town but only two ways you wind up moving here: your car breaks down on a cross-country

trip or a boyfriend

january 2009 women's adventure magazine

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