ISSUE N° 38 | THE CHANGE-MAKERS

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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

Movements are designed to bring about change. They come and they go. They gain traction and then slip quietly into the background again, ostensibly once they have achieved their purpose. Except that often, they haven’t.

Short-term frustration boiling over into a temporary expression of indignation and “something must be done” is easy, but finding lasting change is hard. Lasting change comes when we permanently alter our fundamental belief about something, which means searching both our minds and our hearts to reassess our views, potentially challenging beliefs we have held since childhood. It’s hard. But it’s not impossible.

At Voyager Estate we are on the cusp of harvesting our first certified organic fruit in the 2020 vintage. As you will read in the interview between Steve James and David Jordan on page 8, progressing from an already organically-focussed vineyard to a properly certified one was more of a small step than a giant leap for us, given we had done so much of the work already. However, taking that step and letting go of the safety net that a non-organic vineyard provided did indeed challenge our fundamental beliefs – beliefs about how the land grows things, about patience and, importantly, about risk. Having pushed ourselves to confront those long-held beliefs, we can’t see ourselves going back.

This change is permanent, and it feels good. Add this to our other green initiatives over the past 20 years and everyone at Voyager Estate knows intuitively that what is best for the environment is best

for us as well. We have been inspired by producers around us and are thrilled that other Margaret River producers are following suit too. As a group, we can demonstrate the positive co-existence of agricul-ture, tourism and a healthy environment.

In tackling the more significant environmental issues facing our planet, our little contribution seems fairly inconsequential. However, I recently read that, as climate change is essentially driven by the actions of individuals, it is reasonable to expect that the solutions need to be driven by changes in individual behaviour. It doesn’t seem possible that this will drive enough change to make enough difference.

The long-held belief is that it is up to governments and the global ‘they’ to be responsible for delivering the solutions. However, there is a definite movement for change coming not from governments but individuals. And, perhaps counterintuitively, it is corporations and businesses (rather than governments) that are correctly reading this movement and doing the work of bringing new environmental solutions into everyday use.

We are honoured to be doing our bit, but we must continuously look for ways to do more. The chance to generate lasting change is well and truly now. It’s up to us – all of us. And we can do it.

ALEXANDRA BURTPROPRIETOR

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TEXT

TOM DONEGANPHOTOGRAPHY

GAVIN CRAWCOURTHOMAS DAVIDSON

FIRST PRESS

2019 VINTAGE THROUGH THE EYES OF SOMMELIER AND FORMER NEW YORK-BASED WINE IMPORTER,

TOM DONEGAN, NOW PART OF THE VOYAGER FAMILY.

Margaret River is a long way from the streets of LA or New York – it’s a bit easier on the eye and rolls along at a much cruisier pace. Though come vintage time, things heat up. Our sharp-tongued winemakers match attitude and wit with some of the slickest ‘cork sniffers’ in the US. This is their time to shine and, from my stint over the 2019 vintage, I think they enjoy the spotlight. I’ve been heroing Voyager Estate in cities around the US for over five

years, so when the opportunity arose to do three weeks of vintage, I got involved. I was keen to understand what we do on a deeper level. I wasn’t sure whether our experienced team needed an extra set of hands to help, or whether they just wanted to watch and taunt a city kid as I swapped my laptop and corkscrew for a hose, some barrels and a hell of a lot of cleaning ... Here is the story of my 'first press' at Voyager Estate.

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A DAY IN MY SHOES

After one of the latest starts to vintage in recent memory, we are in full swing. The best blocks of Chardonnay are starting to come in, and the juice out of the press tastes electric. The team is excited; 2019 is going to be an excellent year for the whites.

There is an extra air of excitement today, as Friday is ‘lunch day.’ One of the team (me on this occasion) drops the tools and hits the pans to cook for the crew, choosing some bottles from the winery cellar to com-plement. The pressure is on, especially from our resident gourmand, Winemaker and Winery Manager, Travis Lemm.

7AM – Our team of eight meets in front of ‘Steve’s board.’ This is the ever-changing schedule that outlines picks for the upcom-ing days. Everything depends on what fruit is coming in when, and Travis will plan his press cycles, oak regimes and racking tanks accordingly.

Interesting discussions always flow in front of that board. It’s amazing to hear the know-ledge these guys have garnered after decades of experience working in the vineyards at this time of year. There’s an intuitive feel to the decision-making that overrides science or stats.

It’s a lot to take in and can only be done with a coffee in hand. This is courtesy of Margaret River’s best barista, who doubles as our Wine-maker, Jimmy Penton.

8AM – Travis’s task list is up, and everyone scurries off to their jobs. Jako sets the mood with a rocking playlist over the winery sound system. If Jimmy’s coffee didn’t wake us up, Jako’s music makes sure of it.

The press is starting to roll; this is cellar hand, Richo’s, domain. He has an intimate relationship with this beast and manages it well. They speak a language to each other that no-one else quite understands. Today we have Broadvale 5, one of our best blocks

of Chardonnay coming in, so it will flow from the press straight to French oak barriques that Jimmy is lining up.

9AM – Cammie, our Cellarhand from Bordeaux, and I head to the barrel room to monitor the progress and temperatures of some of our wild ferments that are under-way from previous days’ picks. The barrel hall is quiet apart from the subtle crackling inside the barrels. The ferments are starting to take off. The smell of wild yeast, fermenting sugars, and grape juice fills the air; it’s the smell of vintage.

10AM – Steve and Trav head out for a look at some of the vineyards. This time it’s Cabernet Sauvignon. We’re still six weeks away from Cabernet harvest, though we need to monitor the ripening. It’s been a cool year and there are still some green bunches. Unfortunately, we’re going to have to drop some fruit so that we maximise quality.

11AM – Back at the winery the first press is done; the juice is in barrel and Richo looks satisfied. We’re going to run another cycle soon, but first, it needs a good clean.

It’s a messy job, crawling inside the dark hollow with high-pressure hoses, dodging local bees that come for their sugar fix, cleaning the press from the inside out. Seeds and skins get stuck in the grooves and behind the press bladder. It’s a fingernail job at times but we need this spotless for the next batch.

12PM – I’m sopping wet, but the team is conscious of time and want me to get in the kitchen so that lunch will be ready. First, I need to select the wine. I’m doing Tuscan-style bistecca, so some super Tuscan Cabernets seem like an obvious choice, but I’m a bit of a Rhone-junkie (French Syrah/ Shiraz) and choose two bottles from the famous hills of Côte Rôtie and Hermitage. We get these open, in a decanter, and I hit the pans.

1:30PM – Richo has just finished the second press for the day. That will be it, so it’s pack-down mode, more cleaning and prepping the winery for Saturday morning's tasks. This means I have about an hour to plate up.

2PM - The T-bones are coming to room tem-perature; spuds have gone on and the salad has been prepped. I’ve gone the extra mile and grabbed a big chunk of Comté cheese to follow.

There’s one more ace up my sleeve and it’s time to play it. I head up to the restaurant kitchen to have a quick chat to Head Chef Santi. I leave our conversation with an assortment of jus, stocks and sauces that will take this meal to the next level. Thanks, Chef.

3PM – The troops roll in as I am carving the bistecca. It’s the end of the first full week of vintage and things are starting to ramp up. The team will have another seven of these Friday lunches, which means it will be a long vintage. But now it is a good chance to stop and have a chat about what we’ve achieved while looking at some global benchmark wines which generate some spirited conversation and debate.

5PM – Home to rest (via Settlers Tavern for a cleansing ale). We’ll be back at it first thing Saturday with more good fruit coming in.

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TEXT

STEVE JAMESDAVID JORDAN

NATURAL BALANCE

OUR HEAD OF VITICULTURE AND WINEMAKING, STEVE JAMES, CHATS TO DAVID JORDAN (DJ),

ONE OF AUSTRALIA'S LEADING VITICULTURAL CONSULTANTS, ABOUT OUR JOURNEY TO ORGANICS AND PRODUCING OUR FIRST

CERTIFIED WINES IN 2020.

PHOTOGRAPHY

GAVIN CRAWCOUR THOMAS DAVIDSON

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STEVE: When we started the organic journey, our biggest concern was the two "w’s"… weeds and weevils. Interestingly, weeds have probably been more of a challenge than the weevils.

I never wanted to use organics as an excuse for having a vineyard that wasn't well-managed. Achieving similarly effective weed management has required a few left-of-centre thought processes and a lot of work.

The second "w" has been really interesting because, while initially it was one of our greatest fears, we're actually getting better weevil control now than we were chemically. By encouraging a healthy mid-row cover crop we’re seeing more beneficial insects resulting in the right level of natural predation on the weevil at its vulnerable stage.

DJ: We should probably also paint the weevil story in the context of Margaret River. It’s an ongoing issue in the region where this chew-ing pest can severely damage grape shoots and bunches, causing a dramatic commercial loss in yield and wine quality.

In an organic environment, you’re looking at how nature enables you to ‘balance out.’ Typically, there would be some form of toler-ance for having a pest due to the existence of natural enemies. With a foreign pest like the weevil, you often don’t have that balancing point. There's a concern that it would be a challenge beyond the reach of standard organic approaches. The good news is that our expectations of organic management providing effective control of weevils have far been exceeded.

STEVE: That’s right. The non-organic control measure for weevil is insecticide that invariably kills all the other insects too, so you lose that natural balance. If you now go into our vineyards in the spring time, with all the cover crops and the flowers in the mid-rows, it’s alive. You can hear it. It’s humming with all the bees and insects.

DJ: I've been working with Voyager since 1996 – throughout this time there’s been an awareness of minimising the inputs in the vineyard and progressively easing into one that is very close to being organic prior to seeking certification. Reflecting on these years of preparation gave us the confidence to take the step into organics. When the time came, it wasn’t a jump. It was more of a minor step.

STEVE: We’ve run the Old Block Cabernet under organic manage-ment for 13 to 14 years. That was our early pilot organic project – it wasn't certified, but we ran it as though it was. That was a great learning curve and, once we realised we only had a few steps to go, we thought: let's get certified.

DJ: The other part is a philosophical commitment. If you talk to anybody in the Vineyard Team, it just feels right. Everybody is committed to this pathway, including Alex, the owner, and every-body associated with the broader business. Unless you have that philosophical commitment, it’s a hollow achievement.

STEVE: I’ve been farming all my life and, in the end, it’s just a beautiful way to farm. You need to be in touch with the vineyard and be able to think a little differently. We love being out there.

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We love the soil. So, it drives you because you have to think outside the box. You don’t have an easy option. Yes, it’s challenging, but it’s also an enjoyable way to farm. The whole place feels more alive.

DJ: I think one aspect which we’ll see in time, is how the wine style and expression of the vineyard comes through too. How do we, as custodians of the land through the vineyard, and the wines that are produced, express the unique site that is Voyager in its most optimal way? I think there’s a real opportunity within the organic approaches to enable and facilitate that expression.

STEVE: One of the main drivers for us with the organic transition was to improve wine quality. Ultimately what we’re doing is trying to encourage a more natural system. We’re developing the soil and training the vine root system to penetrate deep into the clay. That’s when you start to produce wines that express that terroir.

DJ: What do you want people to understand about organic wine?

STEVE: It’s just a more environmentally-friendly and rewarding way to farm. For Alex, that’s the key driver, to leave the land in a better condition than we found it for future generations.

DJ: The other part worth highlighting is how the philosophical commitment to organics influences the Voyager community and the Margaret River Region on a broader scale. Voyager Estate is evolving into a more holistic business, one that engages with philosophically- aligned partners and makes a positive impact on the region. When you see a bottle of wine on the table and see it’s from Voyager Estate and it’s organic … that will be a great outcome, but it’ll be about a lot more than just that bottle of wine.

“IN THE SPRING TIME, WITH ALL THE COVER CROPS AND THE FLOWERS IN THE MID-ROWS, IT’S ALIVE.

YOU CAN HEAR IT. IT’S HUMMING WITH ALL THE BEES AND INSECTS."

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PLANTED IN 1978, THE RICH CABERNET FRUIT OF VOYAGER ESTATE BLOCK 9 HAS LONG BEEN THE

BACKBONE OF OUR FLAGSHIP WINE. WHILE STILL PRODUCING EXCELLENT FRUIT, MANY OF THE VINES

HAVE BEEN IN SLOW DECLINE, AS HAPPENS NATURALLY TO ALL VINES. VINEYARD MANAGER, GLEN RYAN

DISCUSSES THE QUANDARY OF HOW TO PRESERVE ONE OF OUR OLDEST PREMIUM VINEYARDS.

TEXT

GLEN RYANPHOTOGRAPHY

GAVIN CRAWCOUR

THE HERITAGE

VINE PROJECT

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Spring is fast approaching – Chardonnay buds are on the move earlier than usual so we’re currently trying to fast-track the remainder of pruning.

While winter is not typically considered to be the busy time of year in the vineyard, it’s never without its projects. This season, we’ve been restructuring old vine Chenin, Merlot and Petit Verdot on the Estate.

Another project that we’ve been working on is the Heritage Project, aka ‘Top Gun’ (I’ll explain later). This project commenced almost seven years ago now and when our Technical Officer and Viticulturist, Alex Miller, provided an update in 2015 Magnum, she wasn’t joking when she wrote: “Don’t ask us to hurry!”

Four years on and we’re proud to say that we’re preparing to plant out almost one hectare of beautiful loamy gravel (alongside the Old Block) with our three new clones of Cabernet Sauvignon: Goose, Maverick and Slider. These vines were carefully selected based on an assessment of vigour, growth habit, yield, bunch structure, berry size and vinification trials from our 41-year-old vines planted on the Estate. If you’ve tried our MJW Cabernet Sauvignon, you’ll understand how excited we are about this new planting.

When we talk about clones in viticulture, we are referring to a population of vines derived vegetatively from a single ‘mother’ vine. At the time of propagation, the vines are genetically identical. Over time, plants can change due to environmental factors, disease or mutation. At Voyager, we have several clones in production: M337, SA125, SA126, LC10 and the Houghton Clone.

Why has it taken us so long, you may ask? Well firstly, to rule out seasonal anomaly it’s essential to make assessments over a few growing seasons. We made an initial selection of ten vines – seven of which were deemed ideal candidates, and three of which were put to the test. We wanted to see if we could identify the ‘lesser quality’ wines made from the three substandard specimens.

Secondly, establishing a small source block consisting of six rows of second-generation vines for future propagation material took a few years of collection and growing time. Cuttings from this second generation are now ready to plant in the field on the right, as you enter the Estate. It will consist of 30 rows and about 2300 vines when completed.

If you’re wondering about the names, we were looking for the ‘best of the best’ so we adopted the ‘Top Gun’ philosophy.

Each vine would take the name of a pilot from the early 1980s film and, after being subjected to ruthless testing, we would find the best pilot ... I mean, grapevine! (We like to have a bit of fun with the vines whenever we can). So, we thought we’d get down to one, and perhaps one day we will, but for now we’ve whittled it down to the best three: Goose, Maverick and Slider.

We deep-ripped the site to help the new vines explore the soil profile, then seeded a complex cover crop of grasses, clover, peas and daikon, and installed railway-iron end posts. Next we’ll install the intermediate steel posts and wires, prior to planting. It’s satisfying to see this block taking shape after such a long planning and propagation period.

It will be another three years before we harvest a significant crop. However, we’ve tasted the first crop from the second-generation vines and the potential of this fruit is incredible. I do not doubt that, in time, fruit from this block, and the three clones, will become part of the MJW Cabernet Sauvignon, perhaps even provide the next step in isolating one true ‘Voyager Estate Cabernet Clone.’

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SANTI FERNANDEZPHOTOGRAPHY

GAVIN CRAWCOUR

SANTI, BORN IN A SMALL SPANISH FISHING TOWN IN GALICIA, FELL IN LOVE WITH MARGARET RIVER ON HIS

FIRST VISIT, THE PRISTINE COASTLINE AND SALT-TINGED AIR EVOKING FOND MEMORIES OF HIS CHILDHOOD. WITH THIS RUSTIC OCTOPUS DISH, HE CHANNELS

HIS UPBRINGING, HIS LOVE OF THE OCEAN, AND HIS UNDYING FOCUS ON SEASONAL, LOCAL INGREDIENTS.

MARGARET RIVER VIA GALICIA

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MARGARET RIVER VIA GALICIA “THE OCEAN IS A GREAT

INSPIRATION TO ME. BEING CLOSE TO THE COAST PROVIDES ME

WITH A SENSE OF CALM AND SERENITY… IT’S

JUST LIKE BEING HOME”

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GALICIAN CONFIT OCTOPUS

1 large octopus about 2kg, head removed4 garlic cloves, crushed30g fresh ginger, diced200ml olive oil

1. Carefully clean the octopus, removing the residue attached to its tentacles. Pat dry.

2. In a large pot – about 70-90cm diameter – heat the oil and add the garlic and ginger.

3. Allow the oil to reach 180ºC-190ºC and place the whole octopus in, tentacles down. Keep the octopus in the same position for 5-7 minutes until the skin acquires an intense red colouration.

4. At this stage, flip the octopus and reduce the heat to the minimum.5. Cover the pot with two layers of cling film and one layer of aluminium

foil to seal the chamber. Cover again with cling film to maintain most of the steam inside the pot.

6. Cook the octopus for 35 minutes. Remove from heat and rest 10 minutes before opening the pot.

7. Pierce the octopus flesh with a toothpick to check that it’s tender.8. Remove the octopus from the pot and refrigerate for one hour.9. Strain the juices through a fine sieve.

KOMBUCHA-MACERATED QUANDONGS AND MUNTRIES

12 quandongs 24g muntries or lilly pilly berries200g Rosella kombucha

FINISHING AND PLATING

WINE TO MATCH

SANDALWOOD NUT ROMESCO

4 large ripe tomatoes, about 500g6 piquillo peppers, peeled 6 garlic cloves100g almonds100g sandalwood nuts75g sherry vinegar1 tbsp Spanish smoked paprika200ml low acidity olive oil

10. Remove the top part of the tomatoes and make a cross-cut incision on the bottom. Insert the garlic cloves in the tomatoes.

11. Place the tomatoes in an oven tray, add the nuts and roast at 170ºC for 25 minutes until the nuts are toasted and the tomatoes are soft.

12. Allow the ingredients to cool and place them in a Thermomix. Add the vinegar and piquillo peppers. Blend at high speed, adding the olive oil to emulsify.

13. Once combined, reduce the speed to number 3 and add the paprika.14. Season to taste.

15. Rinse quandongs and muntries.16. Split in halves lengthwise and remove pit.17. Macerate with kombucha for a minimum of six hours.

18. With a knife, separate the octopus arms. 19. Emulsify the octopus juices with a whisk.20. Grill the octopus (preferably over coals or use a non-stick pan

with some oil to char the skin).21. Glaze the octopus arms with the cooking juices.22. On a plate, arrange dots of romesco and place quandongs,

muntries, and coastal plants. Place an octopus tentacle alongside.

2019 Voyager Estate Project Rosé

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2019 PROJECT L'OEUF BLANC

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ALEX MILLERTRAVIS LEMM

PHOTOGRAPHY

GAVIN CRAWCOUR

A SPECIAL WINE WITH A STORY TO MATCH: A MINIMAL- INTERVENTION BLEND OF SAUVIGNON GRIS, SAUVIGNON

BLANC AND VIOGNIER, FERMENTED IN AN EGG-SHAPED VESSEL. HERE IS A BRIEF INSIGHT INTO THE TIMELINE

AND JOURNEY FROM THE VINE, TO EGG, TO BOTTLE AS CAPTURED BY OUR VITICULTURAL TECHNICAL OFFICER,

ALEX MILLER, AND WINEMAKER, TRAVIS LEMM.

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2013A young Voyager Estate Winemaker, Jimmy Penton, travels to France, falls in love with Bordeaux and the variety Sauvignon Gris. He comes home singing its praises.

2016Sauvignon Gris rootlings are sourced, and space is made in a gravelly patch of dirt next to our Ullingers dam. In summer, the southerly breeze hits the water and cools the vines – preserving the acid levels and fruit flavours of the grapes.

2017We plant our first patch of Sauvignon Gris, about 1,000 vines, with pelletised compost. Undervine mulch follows soon after, to help retain the winter moisture and suppress weed growth.

2018The Sauvignon Gris vineyard joins the ranks of organic conversion and is strip-grazed by sheep, mounded undervine and compost-layered on top. Organic growing at its finest.

February 2019The first spread of bunches on our vines look like pink lemonade. What a lovely surprise to see these beautiful rosy little bunches.

March 2019Our maiden crop of Sauvignon Gris is hand-picked. Forty kilos of berries are de-stemmed by hand and put to one side for later use. The remainder is whole-bunch pressed to ensure only the cleanest free-run juice is obtained. The juice and de-stemmed berries are then transferred to the Nomblot Concrete egg for fermentation.

April 2019A parcel of Viognier is hand-picked from Ullingers 14 and fermented separately, entirely on skins. It is then added to the blend to enrich the textural component.

Early July 2019After being left on yeast lees and Sauvignon Gris berries for 13 weeks, the tank is drained and we screen out the berries.

Mid July 2019The reveal. The wine is bottled by hand, unfined and unfiltered. The name L’Oeuf is derived from the French meaning ‘Egg’ in honour of the unique fermentation vessel. This special wine will be available for purchase in November 2019.

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DIFFERENT DROPS

WE ASKED OUR CONTRIBUTORS TO MINE THE YEAR THAT WAS FOR THEIR MOST SURPRISING DROP

ALEXANDRA BURT PROPRIETOR

I’ve selected five Cabernet Sauvignons tasted recently in a New York masterclass and, more than surprise, they made me incredibly proud. These Cabernets from Cullen, Leeuwin Estate, Vasse Felix, Xanadu and Voyager Estate were all from different vintages with their own character-istics, and yet together they demonstrated the great hallmarks of Margaret River Cabernet - structure, power, balance, finesse and elegance. And they knocked everyone’s socks off!

TOM DONEGANMARKET DEVELOPMENT MANAGERDomaine Guiberteau ‘Breze’ Saumur 2013

This is from a young winemaker, Romaine Guiberteau, in the Loire Valley. Minerality and tension are high with power and rich-ness while walking a tight line. The wine showed me that Chenin Blanc rivals some of the great Chardonnays of Burgundy, but at a more modest price. At Voyager Estate we're playing around with more Chenin Blanc, with some serious wine in barrel from the 2019 vintage and some new vineyards planted over the winter.

GLEN RYANVINEYARD MANAGERS.C. Pannell Tempranillo Touriga 2016

I’ve been looking at some Tempranillos lately as we have planted a couple of hectares and this one jumped out at me. Earthy and welcoming, where the fruit sings the song. Not going to tell you what you should taste here - treat yourself, you won’t be disappointed.

ALEX MILLER VITICULTURAL TECHNICAL OFFICEROlivier LeFlaive Puligny-Montrachet 2012

Delicious! The wonderful part was tasting our 2013 Broadvale Block 6 Chardonnay next to a wine from arguably the best Chardonnay patch in the world. What a pleasant surprise to see them standing side by side, both showing their particular nuances but looking equally luscious.

STEVE JAMESHEAD OF VITICULTURE & WINEMAKINGBosco de Medici Lavaflava Bianco

A blend of 85% Caprettone and 15% Falanghina, grown on volcanic soils around 250m above sea level at the foot of Mount Vesuvius. The wine was light and fine, matching perfectly with the John Dory I was eating. A delightful wine with a fascinating story - I ended up buying a bottle to take home.

TRAVIS LEMMWINEMAKER & WINERY MANAGERChateau Cheval Blanc 2011

My expectations were extremely high given this wine's stature across the globe and in particular St Emilion. I was blown away at its power; it carried poise and elegance. A blend of Cabernet Franc and Merlot, two varieties we're beginning to explore. Cheval Blanc also inspired us to look at the concrete tanks made by Nico Velo, and we now have three of them.

SANTI FERNANDEZHEAD CHEFFat of The Land Seppeltsfield Single Vineyard Shiraz 2012

I enjoyed the thick, dark and complex structure, with predominant notes of dark berries, spices and cacao. Well-balanced acidity and alcohol, lingering finish with dark spices and rich tannins; a great wine to match with a duck dish or game meat.

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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR 0 2 FIRST PRESS 0 3

NATURAL BALANCE 0 7 THE HERITAGE VINE PROJECT  1 1 MARGARET RIVER VIA GALICIA 1 5

2019 PROJECT L'OEUF BLANC  1 9

DIFFERENT DROPS  2 1

ISSUE N° 38 | THE CHANGE-MAKERS