CHAPTER 10

INTRODUCTION The purpose of a maintenance program is to preserve the property in sound physical condition while providing for the safety and comfort of residents. A conscientious maintenance program can mean the difference between the success and failure of a property. Our residents consistently rate no single factor higher. If the buildings and grounds are well maintained and attractive, the value of the property is enhanced. This is accomplished effectively through a program of regular care, which includes inspections, preventive, corrective, and emergency maintenance.

I. ROUTINE COMMON AREA MAINTENANCE Whether it is an apartment community or a manufactured home community, the one fact all communities have in common is aging. From the day they are built, the aging process begins. Therefore, it is essential that steps are taken in the beginning to protect your basic investment and to help extend the useful life of all components of your community. These are four areas within the community that account for 95 percent of all maintenance expenses incurred. They are:

• Roadways • Common Areas • Recreational facilities • Utility systems

The property manager is directly responsible for all maintenance areas (the ultimate responsibility lies with the community owner). The property manager must become familiar with all phases of maintenance to supervise properly his or her employees. When necessary, adequate help must be hired to maintain the buildings and grounds; however, the cost of this function is a direct reflection of the manager's ability to operate efficiently. Frequent inspection tours by the community manager are necessary to ensure high standards and determine priority items for maintenance personnel. A manager should make it a personal policy to maintain the community at such a level of excellence that no one can find or see any discrepancies. The basic components to an efficient maintenance program are the following: daily-weekly-monthly tasks, scheduling of routine maintenance, follow-up of such tasks, and preventive maintenance measures. The following is a typical routine maintenance schedule for the communities' grounds/common area maintenance. It is provided as a guide only. A specific schedule should be designed for each community since the location, size, and climate will dictate the special needs for each community. A. Maintenance Schedule

DAILY MAINTENANCE (or at least several times a week depending on the community)

• ENTRANCE- Make sure this window to the public looks sharp. • CLUBHOUSE- Dry-mop floors, dust, empty ashtrays and trash. Check kitchen and

clean if necessary. Vacuum carpets if needed.

• LIBRARY & LOBBY- Check and clean whenever needed. The library should be dusted at least three times a week.

• EXERCISE ROOM- Check and clean when necessary. • RESTROOMS- Clean daily. • OFFICE- Always keep neat and clean. • LAUNDRY ROOM- Wipe off tops of the machines and under lids, dry mop floors,

check the lint traps, check behind the washers and dryers, and examine the drying yards. Clean off dust and lint from window ceilings. Clean any cobwebs and light fixtures.

• COMMON AREAS- Carefully examine the areas, check trash cans, pick up the trash

and check the sprinklers and lights for any damage. • POOL- Vacuum at lease twice a day (backwash too). Check the chemicals: once a

day in the winter, and twice a day in the summer. Examine the water level and temperature.

• POOL DECK- During the summer, sweep or hose down the pool deck as required.

Adjust the pool furniture, ashtrays, etc., daily. • ROADWAYS- Check the roadways and pick up litter, etc. Open and close the clubhouse and facilities as per your community rules, or as posted, to meet individual community requirements.

WEEKLY MAINTENANCE • Mop and buff the clubhouse floor as required, depending on use. • Thoroughly clean the kitchen. • Thoroughly clean the restrooms. • Mop the laundry floors and check for cobwebs in the laundry room. • Mow and edge the lawns. • Wash a section of windows each week, progressing through all of them. • Check the street lights. • Prune the shrubs. • Spray all weeds.

MONTHLY MAINTENANCE • Check all mechanical/electrical devices (pump lift stations). • Check the building exterior (for spider webs, etc.). • Trim some of the smaller trees. Tree contractors may be required once a year to

handle large tree pruning or removal. • Check mailboxes and repair as necessary. • Check perimeter weeds. • Check the storm drains.

QUARTERLY MAINTENANCE

• Fertilize the lawns and flower beds. • Paint/Touch up as necessary. • Check the perimeter fences. • Check the roof gutters. • Check the community truck (if applicable) for maintenance repairs periodically. Log

repairs and costs. • Check equipment (mowers, trimmers, etc.). The grounds/common area maintenance is the most significant in a community because it is the public window. As any real estate person will tell you, people tend to judge a property according to their first impression. Therefore, it is critical that the landscaped areas, such as the parkways and entries, be well maintained at all times. A daily review of these areas is essential. Weekly maintenance schedules should be initiated so that these areas are literally manicured—remember that a normal lawn without being edged still looks unkempt. Take the time to make sure that your public window shows like the White House. Although there are several good publications on landscaping, one of the best is the Sunset Magazine, which is especially helpful in California. This publication carefully covers landscaping from one end of the spectrum to the other. In addition, great detail on water saving planting ideas are methodically covered. Community managers should always keep a map of the common areas and a checklist of routine tasks. Parking lots that are in the back of the community tend to get the least amount of attention, and a checklist will help you remember them. Items to keep in mind are mowing, trimming, pruning of plants, shrubs and trees, a fertilizing program, insecticide treatments, water system maintenance, water conservation, “color" planting, and weed control.

Work smarter, not harder! Do not be afraid to ask the local nursery what new products are available. Sprays such as Poast allow you to control grass growth without damaging the plants. B. SWIMMING POOL MAINTENANCE Amenity or Liability? A swimming pool implies luxury and status for both the community and residents. Communities with attractive, well-run swimming pools as part of their recreational facilities have a marketing edge in attracting residents, and in commanding higher rents. Yet, for all these marketing benefits, a swimming pool can represent the single most dangerous system among the community’s facilities. In addition, an improperly maintained swimming pool can be a significant safety hazard. Keeping the deck clean and uncluttered, and the water clear and sanitary, demonstrates the management’s concern and attention for the resident’s safety. By tending scrupulously to pool maintenance, you not only keep the pool safe and attractive, but also more cost effective in the long run. A community swimming pool may expose both Western Management LLC and residents to liabilities. The activities of swimming and diving, plus the ambiance around a pool, can encourage horseplay and recklessness among pool users. This type of behavior could lead to drowning or other serious personal injury. If neglected, the chemistry of swimming pool water can become the breeding ground for infectious diseases, or become a defected liquid dump that is chemically irritating or injurious to pool users. In either case, serious or permanent injury and a lawsuit could be the inevitable result. Each state publishes the regulations and standards governing swimming pools. County health departments enforce the state’s rules, so it is a good idea to check with local authorities for interpretation of the regulations. Generally, the rules govern the safety of the overall pool facility and the chemistry of the water that is recirculated through the pool. For the community manager assigned to maintain a swimming pool for the first time, the safety, chemical and regulatory rules might seem better suited to a person trained as an engineer or chemist, not a jack-of-all-trades maintenance manager. Fortunately, while the elements and chemistry of pool maintenance are extremely complex, day-to-day procedures are well within the capability of any community manager. There is also industry help available, as vendors of swimming pool systems and supplies often conduct free classes for on-site managers that simplify maintenance procedures. In most communities, the day-to-day maintenance manager is not the person who physically maintains the structural plumbing and electrical systems serving the pool facility. Repairs and maintenance of these systems should be left to electrical and plumbing maintenance specialists.

Safety at the Pool Site Generally, a community manager faced with the first-time maintenance of a swimming pool will find that the facility at least has been designated to conform to state safety regulations. Lighting should be installed to allow for continuous monitoring of pool activity during evening hours. All metal and electrical installations at the pool should be electrically grounded to protect the users from shock. Portable, cord-connected appliances, such as radios, should not be allowed in the pool area. A clearly labeled emergency shut-off switch for control of both the recirculating system and the aeration and/or jet system near the spa is recommended. Regulations also require that there be no electrical outlets within ten feet of the pool or passing overhead. Beyond the construction design, the community manager has much to do to ensure safety. All pools should be adequately fenced to keep all occupants out when the pool is closed. This means according to state law that: “... The pool shall be enclosed by a fence, portion of a building wall, or other durable enclosure not less than four feet in height. Openings, holes or gaps in the fence (including picket fence opening widths) shall not exceed four inches in any dimension, except for openings protected by doors or gates. Each gate shall be equipped with a self-closing and self-latching device designed to keep the gate or door securely closed at all times when not in actual use, except that a door in a building wall which forms any part of the enclosure need not be so equipped. The latching device of the gate or door shall be at least 3 and 1/2 feet above the deck or walkway.” Gates should be kept in good repair as they are the most common entry point of unsupervised children. The principle areas of pool decking, steps and diving boards should be made of non-skid materials or with local health department approval, having appropriate non-skid material applied. Grab rails free of burrs, sharp corners and snag points should be provided at each entry into the pool. In the absence of lifeguards, the following notice should be posted in plain view: “Warning-- No Lifeguard on Duty” It should have legible letters at least 10.2 centimeters (4 inches) high. In addition, the sign shall also state, “Children Under the Age of 14 Should Not Use Pool Without an Adult in Attendance.” In addition, the state law requires the following signs: Occupant Load Sign: A sign with clearly legible letters at least four inches high shall be posted in a conspicuous place near the main entrance to a pool which shall indicate the number of occupants permitted for each pool.

Spa Pool: The occupant capacity of a spa pool shall be based on one bather for every ten square feet of pool water surface area. Other Pools: The occupant capacity of all other pool areas shall be based on one bather for every 20 square feet of pool water surface area. EXCEPTION: Occupant capacity requirements do not apply to wading pools. Signs for Shallow Pools: Signs with clearly legible letters at least four inches high shall be posted in a conspicuous place and shall state: “NO DIVING ALLOWED.” Warning Signs for Pools Using Gas Chlorine: Pools in which gas chlorine is used for disinfection shall have a conspicuous sign posted on the exterior side of the entry door to the chlorine room, or on the adjacent wall area. In addition to displaying the appropriate hazard identification symbol for gas chlorine, the sign shall state with clearly legible letters not less than four inches high the following: “DANGER-- GASEOUS OXIDIZER CHLORINE.” Warning Sign for a Spa Pool: A precaution sign with clearly legible letters shall be posted in a prominent place near the entrance to a spa pool shall contain the following language: “CAUTION-- Elderly persons, pregnant women, infants, and those with health conditions requiring medical care should consult with a physician before entering a spa. Unsupervised use by children under the age of 14 is prohibited. Hot water immersion while under the influence of alcohol, narcotics, drugs, or medicines may lead to serious consequences and is not recommended. Do not use alone. Long exposure may result in nausea, dizziness, or fainting. Approved signs: Approved signs shall be maintained in a legal manner. Adequate lifesaving equipment should be on hand for use in case of swimmers in distress. A shepherd’s crook at least 12 feet long and a Coast Guard approved ring buoy having an exterior diameter of at least 17 inches with a 3/16 inch line of length sufficient to reach every section of the pool must be available. The pool outlet drains should be adequately protected with secure grates that have openings not to exceed 1/2 inch. Serious accidents have resulted to children caught directly in the suction of outlets in wading pools. Depending on its design, each pool will need to have its own check off list of safety parameters. Reviewing the materials in the reference section and consulting with local health authorities and pool systems vendors will reveal whether adequate physical safety is present at any particular pool.

Chemical Management of Swimming Pool Water Despite the fact that the recirculating system of a swimming pool should be adequate to recycle completely the entire contents of pool water within six to eight hours, additional chemicals are needed to keep pool water within health standards. Chemicals are designed to preserve the purity of pool waters, prevent the growth of disease bacteria and algae, and maintain the stability of the water. They prevent the water from becoming too acidic or alkaline due to the daily effects of the sun, weather, and swimmer load. Disinfectant chemistry can run the gamut from chlorine, bromine, iodine, to even exotic ozone systems. By far the most popular in terms of effectiveness and cost today is chlorine, a toxic greenish gas, which is available in tanks or as a compound in dry forms. Consult your vendor if you are not absolutely sure about the system you have. Here’s where the chemistry can get complicated. There must be at least one and one-half parts per million (PPM) of free active chlorine in the water at all times to kill bacteria. This is very important because if chlorine ever drops below that concentration, disease bearing bacteria and algae can start to grow immediately, endangering pool users and making the pool subject to closure. There are various factors at work which dissipate chlorine in pool water. Some of them are: The Bathing Load: The greater the number of people using the pool, the more

disinfectant is used up. Sunlight: The sun tends to burn up the disinfectant. Water Temperature: The warmer the water, the shorter the life of chlorine disinfectant. Wind and Rain: These weather factors dilute pool waters and add dust, bacteria, algae,

spores, and other debris into the pool causing the disinfectant to overwork and be used up prematurely.

Improper pH Balance: If the scale of water acidity to alkalinity is lopsided too much to the alkaline side, most chemical disinfectants are less effective.

The preceding principles are intended to give an understanding of pool maintenance. A community’s local situation, pool design, and system will determine how the principles can best be applied so that the result complies with health regulations and safety. Fortunately, a manager doesn’t have to be a chemist to determine what the residual PPM of chlorine or any other disinfectant is in the pool water. An easy to use test kit provides the answers. They are available from pool suppliers in various degrees of sophistication and come with complete instructions for use. As a minimum, they should test for residual chlorine, the pH of the water, and total alkalinity. If the main drain is no longer visible because of turbidity, the pool should be closed to use by the residents. Once the routine is learned, it takes only five minutes in

the morning and the same time in the evening to make twice-a-day tests of pool water chemistry. Chemical adjustments to the water can then be made either through the pool recirculating system or directly into the pool water. Ideally, the pool’s recirculating water system, consisting of a pump room and plumbing line to provide and drain water, should be self-contained and not directly connected to potable (drinking) water supply systems. Pools should be filled initially from the potable supply. The means used should prevent cross connections, that in the event of a backup, would cause pool waters to enter the drinking water system. This aspect is provided for at the design and construction phase. Do not modify the water piping system until you have clearance from the local sanitation. Other key parts of the pool’s recirculation systems consist of a chlorinator and a filter that removes particles from the pool as it is recycled. Various filter systems are available and they each have their own operating and maintenance procedures. A common economical type is a sand filter, a large tank filled with sand layers through which the water passes on its cycle. Sand filters should be backwashed according to the manufacturer’s specifications. With most high rate sand filters, a pressure increase of 15 to 20 pounds per square inch above the normal pressure of a clean filter indicates the need to backwash. Too frequent backwashing wastes water, time, and chemicals, and doesn’t improve filtration. Because they are extremely toxic, disinfectant chemicals like dry chlorine should not be stored inside working spaces, such as the pump room. A separate and secure outside storage area should be provided to store the bulk of the chemicals. Liquid chlorine has special handling requirements that should be understood before any untrained person is allowed to work with this substance. Swimming pool water needs to be balanced within a narrow range of the pH scale for user comfort and to ensure the effectiveness of pool chemistry. The pH scale had a range of zero to 14 with distilled water having a pH of 7, which is completely neutral-- neither acidic or alkaline. Above pH 7, water is alkaline, below 7 is acidic. Pool water should be maintained very slightly on the alkaline side (recommended is pH 7.2-7.6) because too much alkalinity makes disinfectants lose their effectiveness, and too much acidity irritates swimmers and causes corrosion to pipes and pool sides. Correcting the pH isn’t difficult since a number of water balancing chemicals are available from pool suppliers. Soda ash, a cousin of common baking soda, raises pH. It can just be sowed like grass seed as one walks around a pool. Muriatic acid and sodium bisulfate lower pH and should be added to pool water judiciously using an acid demand test kit to avoid adding too much for any given pH condition. Pool Water Testing Pool water should be tested for total alkalinity about once a week. This test reveals if total alkalinity falls between an acceptable range of 80 to 120 PPM, the level at which the

water’s pH can be easily managed and adjusted. Problems of total alkalinity do not usually develop until levels drop below 50 PPM or until the high end approaches 200 PPM. Maintenance of proper alkalinity is vital in pool care for reasons other than keeping the pool water in swimmable condition. If the water becomes slightly acidic, it will attack the cement in the pool structure itself. This acidity can cause general abrasion or roughening of the surface, leaving the sand particles exposed. This process is especially damaging if the pool is lined with white plaster. The white cement is dissolved and the yellowish silica aggregate is exposed. This exposure is not only unsightly, but provides a lodging and breeding place for various organisms. In some cases, the edge becomes so rough it can scratch and tear the skin of bathers. Only a few days of neglect may create an acid condition so injurious to the interior of the pool that a complete refinish job costing hundreds of dollars is necessary. Acid water may also cause severe damage to the filter installation and pool piping. The most common occurrence is that copper dissolved by the acid from the pool piping will settle out on the pool floor and walls, leaving a smoky black or blue stain. Extreme care is advised in the practice of alkalinity control. Algae, which can grow rapidly in 24 hours in any water exposed to the outside and the sun, can only be prevented by never letting disinfectant chemistry fall below minimum levels. Should that happen and algae growth occurs, it can only be removed by special anti-algae chemicals. While algae isn’t harmful to humans, it can discolor pool water and attach itself to pool sides, bottoms and steps creating dangerous slippery conditions. Sanitation in the pool is maintained through the addition of chlorine to the pool water. This task should be an important item on the pool maintenance schedule. If neglected, it will result in cloudy pool water, the growth of algae, and pool water unfit for swimming. There are various ways to add chlorine, as it is available in several different forms. You should choose a method of application that suits the specific needs of your pool and your particular maintenance program. Also a part of daily routine is skimming the surface of pool water for debris and sweeping the sides and bottom of the pool to remove and collect foreign matter. Skimmers at water outlets collect floating debris, hair and objects which must be emptied daily. Whatever systems or chemistry are used, be sure that all directions are read and carefully followed. Don’t overdose chemistry. Never guess-- make tests of applicable conditions. Establish a maintenance routine that is carefully followed and logged for record keeping purposes. Make sure it complies with health inspectors. The complex can be made simple for a manager, and a good maintenance program will result in a pool operation that pleases residents and complements a community’s total amenity package. Until you are comfortable with a routine that effectively offers your residents a sparking clean pool, don’t hesitate to ask for assistance from your pool supply vendor and local sanitarium.

C. Buildings All buildings in the community must be properly maintained and kept clean at all times. The plumbing and electrical fixtures must be inspected and kept in good working condition. All walls, ceilings, and woodwork must be kept clean and painted. Special attention needs to be given to all the appliances to ensure that they are clean and in good working order. The storage areas must be kept clean and neatly organized to prevent waste or damage to the supplies and equipment. The following are some suggestions for various maintenance items.

PAINTING Any surface that needs to be painted should first be cleaned free of any old paint scales or of poor quality paint. If necessary, the surface should be sanded before applying any new paint. The selection of a suitable quality paint is a very important factor. The paint should contain ground pigment with a desirable covering quality and adhesive material to form a thorough solid surface that (1) can be washed, (2) will resist abrasion and (3) won't peel off. The area of the wall surface that one gallon of paint will cover is of primary consideration. Keep in mind that good quality paint will cover a larger area than poor quality paint. Poor quality paint cannot be washed or spotted because some or all of the paint will also be removed. Sometimes paint will rub off when dry because it cannot withstand abrasive action and it usually will not hold the paint applied. When redecorating under these conditions, the old paint must be removed before any new paint can be applied. As such, these procedures are expensive and should be eliminated to minimize future maintenance and labor costs. Painting material costs are estimated on a square foot basis; that is, the number of square feet a gallon of paint will cover multiplied by the cost per gallon. When the total number of square feet to be painted is multiplied by the material cost per square foot, the repainting cost will be quite accurate. Of course, waste increases the cost. Labor costs are reduced when paint is applied with good applicators. Wood doors, window frames, baseboards, etc. are usually painted with enamel. Enamel is applied with a brush and requires some dexterity and experience. Enamel can be washed repeatedly and still retain a nice appearance.

Good quality paint, from a reputable manufacturer, is always the best choice. Most paint should be applied at temperatures above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Painting should be avoided during rainy weather, and paint should never be applied to damp surfaces. Some surfaces, such as concrete, iron, steel , aluminum, etc., require special treatment. Always carefully read labels and directions on paint products.

CARPET CARE A preventive maintenance program is necessary to extend the life of a carpet. Any person responsible for the upkeep of carpeting should have complete knowledge of the type of carpets in the complex. The manager should also have complete knowledge of the equipment and cleaners best suited for the care of these carpets. Note: When proper spotting and vacuuming will do the job, carpet should not be shampooed; this will save labor and production costs. Here is a suggested procedure for professional quality carpet cleaning when rotary shampoo equipment is used (if other types of equipment are being used, manufacturers' directions should be followed): VACUUM CARPET- A machine with beater brushes and a sufficient vacuum lift to

remove grit and soil from deep down in the pile is best. PRE-SPOT CARPET- Generally, there are four categories of spots:

1. Oil and grease spots. 2. Oily food stuff and animal matter. 3. Food stuffs, starches, and sugars. 4. Rust.

Each of the above problems should be solved differently. Commercial industrial products are recommended for such purposes. There are good spot removers available for each problem that includes directions for handling the job without damage or excessive cost. Homemade products and ideas sometimes work, but remember that one error can permanently ruin a carpet or upholstery. SHAMPOO CARPET- Product dilution instructions must be followed according to

machine and shampoo being used. There are good, low-sudsing shampoos available that prevent over-wetting the carpet. The corners should be scrubbed with a hand brush. The machine should be moved across the carpet with a circular motion. Shampoo should be released sparingly, building only enough suds to guide the machine. Lap down and return, overlapping each pass by several inches. If the carpet is badly soiled, the area must be gone over a second time without releasing any more shampoo.

The pile should be brushed in one direction with a carpet or grooming brush. If it is a very large room, the pile should be brushed in one direction after several laps. It is important to allow ample time to dry. When dry, the carpet should be vacuumed to remove the emulsified dirt and suds that remain on the surface as an invisible powder. Dirt and suds must not be walked on or forced back into the carpet.

FLOOR MAINTENANCE

It is important to know the type of floor covering and how to keep and maintain it in acceptable condition and appearance. It may be asphalt, tile, rubber, vinyl, linoleum, cork, concrete, wood, tile (clay and ceramic), terrazzo or marble. The manager must carefully determine what type to flooring is present and consider how to treat it before proceeding to avoid causing any damage. The correct procedure and the use of the right products will always reduce labor costs and maintenance. In addition, use of the right products will reduce the material wear and prevent unnecessary replacement. Examples: ASPHALT TILE- The darkest tile usually contains asphalt binders, and the lighter tile

contains resin binders. In both cases, tiles are long wearing, come in bright colors, and are attractive in appearance when properly maintained. The use of oils and solvents should be avoided. To get the best care possible, the finest sealer, finish and cleaners available should be used.

LINOLEUM- This is a mixture of ground cork, wood flour, resins, color pigments and

oxidized linseed oil, etc., mixed together, rolled out and compressed onto asphalt-saturated backing. This is heat-cured to form the finished product. Linoleum is long lasting and durable when properly maintained. The use of varnish or lacquer sealer will extend the useful life of linoleum.

CERAMIC TILE FLOORS- Ceramic tile is a mixture of clay and water that has been

shaped and then fired in a kiln at high temperatures. These tiles are set in cement to form the floor. Ceramic tile is durable and long lasting and comes in a variety of colors. It is easy to care for when properly maintained. Cleaners that will eat away the concrete grout surrounding the tile must be avoided. Here again, a good sealer finish can be of great value in the reduction of maintenance costs.

TERRAZZO OR RESILIENT FLOORS- If the floor has been previously maintained

with a wax or polymer floor finish, it is important that the old floor finish be removed, which is called stripping. New materials will not adhere if the floor is not cleaned. Proper cleaning and stripping also eliminates the old wax that gives a yellow, ugly appearance to the floor.

(Such stripping is necessary even if the floor is new, to remove the "factory coating" with which most manufacturers coat new floor material. By following the recommended procedure on new floors, the manager will have floors that present a more beautiful appearance for a longer period of time.)

1. CLEANING FLOORS

Step 1: A floor finish stripper should be used. It is important to follow manufacturers' instructions. (Household products are not adequate for this job).

Step 2: All old finish should be rinsed and picked up. Perhaps the most common mistake made is that all of the old finish has not been removed and picked up; this causes two problems:

The new finish will not adhere to the floor, leaving a spotty finish. When the new finish is applied, it is cloudy and streaked from the residue of cleaning material and the old finish. Clean water and a clean pick-up mop must be used to do this job. Two rinses may be necessary. Stripping and cleaning should be done whenever possible with a floor scrubbing machine. Usually the carpet shampooing machine can be used for scrubbing and polishing. For the fastest and most economical stripping job, a nylon pad should be used.

Step 3: Sufficient time for drying must be allowed. Floors dry from the top down. When the floor appears to be dry on top, additional time should be allowed for complete drying.

2. APPLICATION OF FLOOR SEALER

Step 1: A clean lambskin applicator should be used.

Step 2: Apply in full, uniform coats. Let application dry. For best results, apply two or more coats to porous floors. The sealer on the top of the flooring should appear in a clear, mirror-like finish. This sealer will give longer wear and prevent scratching, some of the gouging and some water absorption—thus stopping water markings. Sealer can be used on old flooring to extend its life and give it a better appearance.

3. APPLYING FLOOR FINISH

Step 1: A water- emulsion finish is best. (Solvent-type base finish should not be used on rubber or asphalt tile.) Where there is normal usage of the floor, a good polymer finish can be used. While it may not give a really high gloss finish, it will last longer.

In areas such as entrance ways and recreations rooms, a finish that is mark-resistant and scuff-resistant should be used, particularly if there are light-colored floors. Many

manufacturers claim mark-resistant qualities. The product should be checked. The right product here can save much labor in keeping a beautiful floor. Application of two coats is recommended. If the finish coat is being absorbed into the floor, it had not been properly sealed. A lambskin applicator is best; it must be absolutely clean.

Step 2: Polishing. Most polymer finishes do not require polishing, and it is a waste of time to try to polish them. If a finish is used, it will polish to a high gloss but will require continued polishing.

LAUNDRY ROOM The laundry room can be made cheerful quite inexpensively. Often laundry rooms are additions to older buildings, and little thought has been given to them. The laundry room should be painted (preferably white or off-white), well lighted and kept clean. The laundry room, to residents, is a very important facility and should not be treated lightly in the selling process. Some property managers have bulletin boards in the laundry room. They post items of interest from the community, timely recreational information, announcements or adult education programs, lost-and-found articles and items for sale. If a bulletin board is used, it should be kept up-to-date at all times. Signs indicating instructions for loading, lint removal, and drying synthetic materials, plus one that says "dying prohibited," should be posted. Hours for using laundry facilities should also be posted. State law no longer requires laundry facilities. It is now optional whether or not this amenity is offered.

FIRE EXTINGUISHERS Fire extinguishers should be installed in glass-fronted wall boxes to prevent stealing. A schedule should be set for recharging them. Local ordinances must be checked. Basically, there are two types of extinguishers.

1. For electrical fires. 2. For combustible material.

The personnel of the local fire station will be pleased to give instruction on the proper use and care of this equipment. Most fire departments make periodic inspections of parks, but the manager should not wait for them to make a call.

If you suspect a fire hazard on adjoining property, remember that if a complaint is registered with the Fire Department, they will follow through and investigate, and a conflict with the owner can be avoided.

RECREATIONAL FURNITURE AND FIXTURES

Ongoing inspection of all applicable furniture and fixtures is a must to prevent liability problems from the residents and guests using the facilities. Some major problem areas have been the following: damaged pool furniture, chairs with bad rollers and/or legs and throw rugs. If any such problems are found, take immediate action to repair or dispose of these liabilities.

TOOLS, EQUIPMENT, ETC. Most communities have very limited inventories of tools and equipment; therefore, they must be maintained on a regular basis. Schedules should be set up so all equipment can be maintained as indicated by manuals from the manufacturer, using the recommended lubricants and time schedules (mail in all warranty cards promptly). Preventive maintenance is also very important and can save repair time and many dollars in the long run. When purchasing any tools or equipment, buy wisely. Make sure you purchase the proper equipment for the job (i.e., if you have two acres of grass, don't buy an 18" lawn mower). Always inventory all community property and, if possible, set up your storage areas and tool boards so everything can be marked. Thus, you are able to see if something is missing at a glance. Community tools and equipment should never be loaned to anyone because of the possible liability.

PURCHASING

Under normal circumstances, charge accounts should be established with the following outlets:

Hardware Stationery Pool Supplies Janitorial Supplies

Most retailers will allow discounts to their regular customers, but it is usually necessary to ask. On items purchased in substantial quantities, such as cleaning products and paper towels, determine whether buying in large quantities will affect savings. If your community is reasonably close to another housing project, additional savings can be realized by standardizing certain products and buying larger amounts than is possible for a single project. If a local vendor requires an application for a charge account, send it to the main office for approval. Upon arrival, the application should be completed and sent directly to the vendor. Buy wisely. A lower price item is not necessarily the most economical way to purchase supplies. (Example: A cleaning agent @ $5 per gallon that may be diluted 10 parts water to 1 part agent is a much better buy than a cleaning agent @ $3 per gallon that is diluted 4 parts water to 1 part agent. Some suppliers will volunteer this kind of information, but don't count on it.) Purchases of all major items should require at least three prices or bids prior to the purchase (the lowest bid is not necessarily the best choice). Most purchases usually are for items covered by a previously approved operating budget. All purchases in excess of $500 should have approval from the main office.

EMERGENCY REPAIRS In the event an emergency should arise that would require a major expenditure, the property manager would be responsible to determine what appropriate action to take. Immediate action must be taken if life, property or comfort of the residents is in jeopardy. (Do not accept responsibility; let the insurance carrier determine the liability.) The manager should prepare a list of potential emergencies with reliable repair and maintenance company names and telephone numbers. Potential emergencies include, among other things: electrical outage, water line breaks, sewer stoppage, and so on.

VENDING/CONTRACTING SERVICES

Contracting service will generally be confined to pool service, laundry facilities, air conditioning maintenance and perhaps soft water service. All service contracts should be on a bid basis. The following are some items that you should consider when contracting for outside services: • Contracts should be for periods of twelve months or less. • Every contract should contain a clause giving the community the right to cancel on

thirty days' notice. • All contracts should contain provisions for worker's compensation and evidence

thereof to be provided by the party with whom the park is contracting. • Fidelity bonds must be produced where they are required by the service being

rendered. • Independent contractors must carry bodily injury, property damage, personal injury

and public liability insurance with limits of not less than $100,000/$300,000 bodily injury and personal injury, and $50,000 property damage. The party with whom the community is contracting must provide certificates evidencing such insurance.

• All contracts should be transferable to the new owner upon sale of the property. • All contracts should have a clause allowing termination of the contract without

penalty upon sale of the property by the owner. This will probably also require some provision for notice.

Once a contract has been prepared, it should be forwarded to the main office for approval and signature.

ROADWAY, WALKWAY & PARK LIGHTING In addition to major roadway repairs, you should always be aware of minor problems and take care of them as they occur. It is wise to keep at least a couple bags of cold patch asphalt around to take care of these types of problems. It is also wise to have the street swept periodically to keep loose gravel off the roadways. Whenever possible, you should also keep excessive water off asphalt—it speeds up deterioration. Many slips and falls are caused by walkway problems. Be sure you monitor on a regular basis and, if necessary, make repairs. You can use asphalt for temporary patches and leveling. If tree roots are the problem, they should be cut when making the repair. Use copper sulfate to stop future root growth.

Community lighting systems should be reviewed on a nightly basis and necessary repairs or replacements made as needed. There are many new energy-efficient lighting fixtures that actually give off more light. Evaluate your lighting systems and update wherever possible. If you still use incandescent bulbs, consider using traffic signal bulbs, which have heavier filaments and last longer.

RV STORAGE AREA This area should be kept clean at all times to encourage residents to help care for the enclosure. Stalls should be marked and numbered so there are no questions as to what space is available for each resident. If you have dump stations and electrical service, make sure you check the operation of both on a regular basis. You must post signs for proper use.

INCOMING HOMES Each community manager should be given specifications for the size and utility design capacity of a manufactured home allowed in the community. In the case of a used manufactured home, inspections by the manager should be required prior to acceptance. Any home over 10 years will not be accepted into the community. The manufactured home should be acceptable for exterior maintenance, and if not, this work ought to be accomplished before moving it into the community. Avoid misunderstandings by notifying manufactured home owners of any amenity they may have that would not be acceptable in the community such as wood fencing, skirting and oversize storage cabinets. In the event the manufactured home to be inspected is not within reasonable driving distance, you should inform the prospective resident of all necessary qualifications and reserve the right of refusal at the community entrance. This must be handled in a way that does not imply deception. Explain that unless the prospect has recent photographs from various angles, it is very difficult to make a judgment.

SAFETY IN THE COMMUNITY There are many OSHA and other laws to which you must adhere. Make it a policy to read up on current laws at least yearly and relate them to any onsite staff. All community equipment should be in full compliance with OSHA requirements and employees should be trained to operate it properly.

The community employees should be trained to handle any type of emergency. Every employee should have a list of emergency phone numbers so that in case of an emergency, they are prepared and can assist if necessary. ALWAYS have at least one back-up person or contractor available for any emergencies. PLEASE REFER TO THE SAFETY MANUAL FOR MORE DETAILED PROCEDURES ON SAFETY IN THE COMMUNITY!

REGULAR MAINTENANCE CHECK LIST The following is an example of a regular maintenance check list. By using this type of check list on a monthly basis, you can usually prevent many major and/or unexpected occurrences. It is also very helpful in preparing an operational budget for the upcoming year. As you will note, it includes the resident’s manufactured home sites. Also, notice it is not the community’s responsibility to maintain the individual unit sites, but it is your responsibility to make sure that the resident does. By checking on a monthly basis and taking corrective action, your community will have at least taken the steps to sound management.

II. UNIT MAINTENANCE

A. Punch-out Procedures Each vacant unit should be made ready for occupancy as quickly as possible. This is referred to as a “punch-out.” After receiving a notice of intent to vacate (or upon discovery that a resident has “skipped”), the Property Manager should immediately arrange to have the unit scheduled for punch-out. Punch-outs should be done in the following order:

1. Units that have been rented and are awaiting occupancy within the week should have first priority.

2. Vacant units should be made ready for demonstration prospects. 3. All units should be “turned” (made ready) within 10 working days. Only very

unusual circumstances should cause more than 10 days for a completed punch-out.

After all punch-out work has been completed and the unit has been cleaned, the Property Manager should inspect the unit and insure that the Make-Ready Check List Form has been completed. The unit must be thoroughly cleaned and ready for occupancy before it can be shown to a prospect. A unit which is not ready to be occupied is NEVER to be shown. Prospective residents should never, with promises of how the unit will look, be told that the unit is dirty because the previous residents just moved out. The prospect often has little power of imagination, and leasing decisions are made on the basis of what is seen, not what is promised.

B. Utility Policy-Vacant Homes or Apartments: We have recently seen some very large utility bills on vacant homes/apartments and therefore we are going to enforce the following policy on “vacant home/apartment – utilities”.

1. At no time may you have electric and/or gas to more than 4 vacant homes/apartments at any one time. If you only work on one home at a time then you should only have one home powered up. Please use common sense.

2. After a home is complete, the electric and/or gas should be turned off. The

resident will turn the power back on in his/her name after signing a lease. 3. Please remember to use common sense when setting thermostats before

working on a home or apartment. The thermostats should be set accordingly:

Winter – heat should be set to 60 degrees Summer – A/C should be set to 80-85 degrees

4. Please remember to turn the thermostat and lights off in vacant homes/apartments when no one is working in the home or when quitting for the day. Please see that this is being done on a daily basis.

Please talk with your team/vendors to ensure that the thermostats are not changed. Inform them to turn off power when leaving home or apartment for an extended period of time.

5. It should take no more than 30 days to get a home ready. The power to a

home should not be turned on for more than 30 days. If it is going to take longer then you are working on too many homes at one time. Please refer to the section on the previous page regarding time allowed for turnover.

6. We prefer that you work on one home at a time so we can finish the job

quickly and rent the home. Lost rent cannot be replaced so it is important to make ready our vacant homes as quickly as possible.

MAKE-READY CHECKLIST

Find form under MAINTENANCE in the FORMS ON-LINE

C. Smoke Alarms To assure the proper operation of smoke alarms in each apartment, all Property Managers will follow the standard procedure for the testing and maintenance of smoke alarms.

4. Punch-Out During punch-out, the Property Manager must test the smoke alarm to make sure it is in good working order.

5. Move-In The Property Manager will show the new resident how to test the smoke alarm and how to change the batteries or control the electric source, (whichever is applicable). The resident should be informed that he/she is responsible to test the alarm frequently, and to notify the office if the alarm is not operable.

6. Newsletter Notice Notices should appear regularly in the property newsletter reminding each resident to test his/her smoke alarm and to request immediate replacement of any alarm found defective.

7. Routinely Any employee entering an apartment should check the smoke alarm on a routine basis.

C. Down Units When there is an occurrence which causes an apartment/home to be “down,” i.e. render the unit uninhabitable, an incident report is written immediately. The incident report is to be detailed explaining the reasons for the downing of the unit. The property manager also needs to include an approximation of the necessary work to be done on the down unit in order to restore it to rental condition, as well as a projected date for occupancy of the down unit. The property manager is to send the original of this report to the main office. This is necessary so that an insurance report can be filed. Depending on the circumstances leading to the damage of the unit, insurance proceeds may be collectible. Northwind’s policy is that there are to be no (0) down units unless they are the result of fire, flood, or another unavoidable disaster. Yet even in such extreme incidents, work is performed immediately by maintenance or after bids are received and awarded to the subcontractor(s) so that these units can return quickly to their original condition. And furthermore, during the time in which an apartment is down, it should still be shown as a vacancy until it is rented.

Finally, any and all down units need to be included in the Weekly Occupancy Report as vacant units D. Service Requests When a resident notifies the office that maintenance is needed, the service requests are to be recorded on a Maintenance Request Form, or computer (if your property is so equipped). Every effort should be made to have same-day service. An important factor in your property’s performance rating is the percentage of service requests correctly handled in less than 24 hours from the time of receipt. Service Technicians are not to perform any work in a unit unless they have received a written service request or it is an emergency maintenance situation. Any time work is performed in a unit, a copy of the Maintenance Request should be left for the resident, indicating the work performed and the person performing it. If work cannot be completed (for example, a part has to be ordered), then a copy of the service request is to be left indicating the reason work was not finished and estimating when it will be completed. In such cases, it becomes the responsibility of the Property Manager to keep that resident informed of progress toward completion of the service request. The completed request form must be dated and signed by the Service Technician. E. Do’s and Don’ts When Entering a Resident’s Home To do your job, you must enter resident’s homes. Keep in mind that you are an ambassador for the community. Everything you say and do is important-- and can make a big difference in what a resident thinks of your community. Here are some do’s and don’ts to help you make your service calls run smoothly and successfully. DON’T leave behind tools, supplies, etc. DON’T leave in the middle of the job to do other work or take breaks. If you must leave to get help or additional tools, tell the resident. DON’T ask residents for supplies, refreshments, or anything else. DON’T use the resident’s sink to wash up. DON’T use the resident’s bathroom. DON’T smoke, drink or eat in the resident’s unit. DON’T leave hand prints on the walls, or dirt anywhere.

DON’T leave your walkie-talkie on high volume. The noise is disturbing and residents may over hear conversations between you and the office. DON’T offer opinions about your job, the management, the community, other residents or staff. Limit conversation to the work you are doing. DON’T offer to do extra work. If the resident requests extra work, explain that it’s management policy for you to do only the assigned work. Suggest that the resident call the office to get clearance for the extra assignment. DON’T accept tips or other compensation for your services. Just thank residents and explain that it’s against the rules. DO address all residents as “Mr.” or “Ms”. Some residents may not understand why, for example, you call residents you know by their first names and residents you don’t know by “Mr.” or “Ms.” and their last names. DO knock loudly and for a long time before entering a resident’s unit. DO identify yourself when you arrive for work at a unit. Be punctual if a definite appointment was made. DO inform the resident about what you will have to do and how long it will take. DO discuss setting up the necessary work space and protecting furniture, floors, carpets, and walls with the resident. DO replace furniture, if moved. DO bring your own supplies and materials needed for clean-up. DO leave a note explaining the status of the work for residents who are not home.

F. On-Call Guidelines 1. Maintenance personnel on-call shall be accessible by phone or page at all times. 2. Any schedule changes for on-call persons will require prior approval of the Property

Manager. 3. Emergency calls should take first priority. Emergency situations include fire,

flooding, lack of heat or air-conditioning (depending on the season), or stopped up toilets in one bedroom units. After-dark air-conditioning/heating calls will not be made unless approved by the Property Manager.

Other items may require response by maintenance personnel to guarantee resident satisfaction. This shall be the goal of the entire staff. If a resident had made a request or demand that is questionable, the Property Manager will make the final decision.

Resident satisfaction and retention are the key factors in determining the type of calls we respond to and when we are on-call.

Also, it may be necessary for on-call persons to respond to the special needs of the property as requested by the Property Manager. Examples include, but are not limited to, lockouts, trash pick-up, or repairs to property due to vandalism.

4. Under no circumstances will an on-call employee respond to a service call while

under the influence of drugs or alcohol. This will result in termination. 5. The employee on-call is responsible for maintaining written documentation of each

on-call transaction. This should include time, date, address, name of resident, work performed, and follow-up required. A list of parts used should also be kept.

6. These on-call guidelines are not intended to restrict the service we offer our residents.

Rather, they should enhance the performance of the entire team.

Locate this form under MAINTENANCE in FORMS.

MAINTENANCE WORK ORDER REQUEST

H. Maintenance Shop Standards Organization is a key element in the success of any maintenance department. An organized maintenance shop will not only improve the overall appearance and working condition of the shop, but it will increase the level of productivity and efficiency in which we can service our residents. This section outlines the way in which the property’s maintenance shop is to be organized. The following procedures/standards are to be established and implemented at every property. 1. All maintenance shops are to be organized. Parts should be put in bins, containers, etc.

and the containers are to be labeled accordingly. All junk is to be removed, including old appliances and etc. that serve no purpose.

2. All shops are to be locked if not in use. All master keys, shop keys, etc. are to be

collected from a former employee before he/she receives his/her last paycheck. Also, the replacement of shop locks is to be done on a periodic basis.

3. PHONE NUMBERS OF POLICE, FIRE DEPARTMENT, AMBULANCE, AND

EMPLOYEES ARE TO BE POSTED IN THE SHOP AREA. I. Maintenance Stock Inventory The purpose of this form is to assist the maintenance department with future planning and budgeting, to keep an accurate inventory count, and to possibly assist with the establishment of some price breaks with various vendors. Primarily, the main purpose of the form is to identify the items that Northwind Properties are currently using and from whom these items have been purchased. J. Interior Inventory

The purpose of this form is to assess the interior condition of each apartment home. This information allows for future planning of maintenance needs and replacement budgeting at each property. This form should be kept on file at the property. Once complete, monthly updates will need to be conducted (i.e. appliance purchases, carpet purchases, carpentry upgrades, etc.).

III. PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE

Preventive Maintenance is critical and must occur in order to insure the continued success of Northwind Properties. The Preventive Maintenance Program Check Sheets are to fill out by each property according to the time frames indicated below and are to be maintained in a file at the property. The Operations Manager will inspect the program check sheets as apart of the property walk he conducts. The following items are addressed in the Preventive Maintenance Program: A. Preventive Maintenance Checklist B. Exterior of Building-- Semi-Annually C. HVAC Checklist-- Semi-Annually D. Recreational Equipment-- Semi-Annually E. Unit Checklist—Bi-Annually F. Leasing Office-- Quarterly

G. Laundry Facility-- Semi-Annually H. Asphalt--Annually I. Concrete—Annually J. Gas System—Annually

Locate form in the section: MAINTENANCE under FORMS.

PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE WORKSHEET

EXTERIOR OF THE BUILDING

SEMI-ANNUAL INSPECTION

Locate in section: MAINTENANCE in the FORMS on-line.

PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE WORKSHEET

HVAC CHECKLIST

SEMI-ANNUAL

Locate form under MAINTENANCE in the FORMS on-line.

RECREATION EQUIPMENT PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE

CHECKLIST-SEMI-ANNUAL

WESTERN MANAGEMENT PROPERTIES’ MAINTENANCE PROGRAM

Our goal is to provide a very clean and happy place for families to live. Great customer service will ensure happy customers that will want to live in our community for a long time. Our customer service should surpass the expectations of all residents. The following program will help ensure that our customers are receiving the best care possible. 1. To help achieve our goal of providing a happy place to live and great customer

service we will now inspect each rented home every six months. During out inspection we will look for any leaks, clean A/C filter, make any repairs, and make sure that the unit is not being mistreated. If a resident is mistreating the house, then the manager should be informed immediately so that we can resolve the problem. The resident is responsible for the payment of any repairs that were made because of his or her negligence. A copy of this sixth month walk through should be mailed to the main office.

2. The above walk through will take care of most of the repair work on an occupied

rental. If a resident calls prior to the six-month walk through, then we will schedule for the repair to be made at that time. The manager will complete a maintenance service request form and have the resident sign off after all of the work has been completed. A copy of this form should be kept in the resident’s file.

Locate form under MAINTENANCE in FORMS.

PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE WORKSHEET

UNIT CHECKLIST

BI-ANNUALLY

Locate this form under MAINTENANCE in FORMS.

PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE

WORKSHEET

LEASING OFFICE CHECKLIST QUARTERLY

Locate under MAINTENANCE in the FORMS SECTION

PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE WORKSHEET

LAUNDRY FACILITY CHECKLIST

SEMI-ANNUAL

Locate under MAINTENANCE in the FORMS SECTION

PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE WORKSHEET

ASPHALT CHECKLIST ANNUALLY

ASPHALT MAINTENANCE

Preventive Maintenance Well-maintained asphalt roadways, access ways, and parking areas create an initial visual impression for visitors and prospective residents of a community. If they look good, the community looks good, which influences residents’ attitudes and their own maintenance. Asphalt facilities represent a major part of an investment in a community. If improperly maintained, asphalt can lose up to 50 percent of its value in the first five years, and completely deteriorate within eight years. Today, it can cost up to $2.50 per square foot to replace an asphalt surface. The problem is that immediately after installation, asphalt pavement starts to deteriorate from exposure to the air, sun, rain, snow, temperature extremes, surface hardening and traffic stresses. If not addressed, these influences cause asphalt to lose its color, to expose aggregate and to permit moisture seepage which causes cracks to develop. These cracks get bigger, become widespread and eventually turn into dangerous potholes. If minor defects can be identified and attended to early, it will prevent the need for major repairs at a later stage. Thus, it’s vital that the asphalt be carefully inspected, at frequent intervals by maintenance personnel. This inspection should be done on foot, since cracks and defects in their early stages are usually too small to be spotted from a moving vehicle. One form of preventative maintenance is providing for proper drainage. The subsurface below the asphalt is less able to resist stress when laden with excess moisture. Even though most traffic-induced stress is absorbed by the pavement, invariably, the underlying soil is subject to some of the pressure. If the soil is excessively moist, it may be unable to withstand the pressure which causes cracks and faults to appear on the pavement’s surface. Proper drainage with strategically positioned inlets and culverts enables the water from rain storms and melting snow to flow away from the asphalt surface into a convenient outlet. All surface and subsurface drainage structures should be routinely inspected and cleaned out at regular intervals. Efficiently functioning drains can eliminate the need for costly repairs later. Be sure all drain outlets are clearly marked on the ground as well as on maintenance report sheets so that none is overlooked.

Climate and Soil Conditions Managers should be aware that certain climate and soil conditions exist which may cause additional problems in asphalt. Expansive, swelling soil conditions in some areas can produce significant upheaval if the pavement section was not initially designed for these unstable soils. In mountainous areas, excessive frost will cause upheaval, large bumps and cracking. These defects occur in the springtime and, as the weather warms, the pavement becomes distorted; support is lost and the bumps turn into potholes. Snowfall is another factor which affects asphalt. The design of asphalt areas should provide an adequate place for snow storage after it has been plowed. The snow should be stored where it will not run back and seep in under the pavement as it melts. Until normal soil-support conditions return, managers might consider the possibility of restricting loading, trash pick-up and other heavy vehicles during the critical period of snow melt and high ground water. Problems Defined The following are common and easily recognizable problems in asphalt pavement: 1. Alligator Cracks: These are interconnected cracks which form a series of small blocks, often resembling an alligator’s skin. This is most frequently caused by excessive deflection of the surface over unstable pavement subgrade. Alligator cracks usually affect only small portions of the pavement. IF they should appear over a large area, it is generally the result of heavier traffic, like refuse trucks which exceed the load capacity of the pavement. 2. Grade Depressions: These are localized low areas in the pavement, usually quite small, and there may be no presence of cracking. They, too, are often caused by heavier traffic than the pavement can withstand. Poor construction of the pavement, or settlement of the lower layers, can also cause grade depressions. 3. Potholes: This is perhaps the most common problem which occurs in asphalt paving. These bowl-shaped holes, which may vary in size, are caused by the pavement’s disinterfration under traffic-induced stress. Poor drainage, an incorrect asphalt mix and pavement which is too thin can also result in potholes. Other forms of pavement distress, when neglected, can deteriorate into potholes. 4. Raveling: This is the progressive separation of aggregate particles in the pavement from the surface downward. Small pockmarks may appear first on the surface; then, as the process continues, larger particles break away. The pavement gradually develops a rough, jagged appearance. Raveling is caused by many different conditions, such as letting irrigation water run continually across the asphalt, and allowing the asphalt to dry from weather conditions. Leaky car transmissions and engine oil also cause raveling. All of these conditions take the asphalt binder out of the pavement, which in turn causes the sand and rocks to loosen up and break away.

5. Shrinkage Cracks: These are interconnected cracks which form a series of large blocks, usually with right angle corners. The cracks are caused by volume changes in the asphalt mix, the base or subgrade. 6. Upheaval: This is the upward displacement of asphalt, the opposite of grade depression. It’s caused by swelling of the subgrade or part of the pavement structure. In cold climates, upheaval can be the result of ice expanding in the pavement or subgrade. Damage Repair Methods Regardless of the type of pavement damage, if the cause is able to be determined and corrected, the repairs can be simplified. This may often prevent the same problem from happening again. Depending on the problem, asphalt repairs may require a qualified asphalt contractor. Some problems can be handled by maintenance personnel using some proprietary asphalt product, and some of the technical advice available in literature from the Asphalt Institute or its regional engineer. Even asphalt in good condition can have some fine cracking and minor raveling. At this stage, a thin seal coat applied to the pavement can help fill in the problem areas and inhibit deterioration. A seal coat is a thin asphalt surface used for waterproofing and restoring the surface of the pavement. There are several types: aggregate seals, fog seals, emulsion slurry seals and sand seals. Asphalt should be sealed every three to five years. Most commonly used is the fog seal. This is a light application of slow-setting emulsified asphalt diluted with equal parts of water. This type of seal is used to renew old surfaces and to seal small cracks. Because the amount of fog seal that the pavement can absorb depends on the dryness and texture of the existing surface, it must be sprayed on at a specific rate: 0.1 to 0.2 gallons per square yard. A lighter application will fail to seal the cracks adequately, whereas a heavier application can cause skidding on the surface. Where necessary, a movable shield should be used to protect nearby buildings, curbs or landscaping while the spraying is in progress. Since the emulsified asphalt in the fog seal requires several hours to cure, alternative parking arrangements should be made. Residents should not be permitted to drive on the tacky surface. Another frequently used seal coat is emulsified slurry, a mixture of emulsified asphalt, fine aggregate, mineral filler and water. If only a small quantity is required, it can be mixed in a plastic mixer or a wheelbarrow. Generally, for larger quantities, a slurry machine is recommended which can also spread the mixture. It is applied to the surface approximately one-eighth inch thick. In areas where considerable fuel spillage or oil drips occur, it is recommended to seal the pavement with a proprietary sealer impervious to petroleum products. Such sealers are available commercially, but they should be used with care as some have been known to develop surface cracking after being applied. Seal coats can also be squeezed on by hand if spraying equipment is not available.

For pavement in only fair condition, with random cracks up to one-half inch wide and some raveled aggregate, some preparation is necessary prior to applying the corrective sealant. All vegetation growing in or around the cracks should be removed, and the cracks should be thoroughly cleaned either with a stiff broom or a stream of compressed air. If necessary, weed killer should be applied. The cracks should then be filled with emulsified asphalt slurry or a light grade of asphalt mixed with fine sand, using a hand squeegee or a broom. A fine sand-asphalt hot mix can also be effective in filling in large cracks. There are also water-based asphalt crack fillers available that can be easily applied without preheating at any ambient temperature above 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Cracks of 1/8” or less are really too small to be effectively filled. A seal coat covering the entire area is recommended to take care of small cracks which cannot be individually filled. Pavement is considered to be in poor condition if there are random cracks, raveled aggregate, depressions, alligator areas, potholes and maybe also some upheavals. The alligator cracks, potholes and upheavals should be treated first, since these areas are the most critically damaged and require asphalt patching. Patching potholes with hot-mix asphalt is usually a job for an asphalt contractor. First, the surface and base must be removed to a depth of at least four inches, or to firm support. The area cut should be square or rectangular, and should extend about a foot beyond the damaged area all around. If it appears that the problems were caused by moisture, drainage may have to be installed or replaced at this stage. After installing the drainage, the subgrade should be compacted. A light coat of liquid asphalt or emulsion, known as the tack coat, is applied to the vertical surfaces to ensure a proper bond between the patch and the existing pavement. The hole is then back-filled with a dense graded hot asphalt plant mix. If the hole is deeper than six inches, the mix should be thoroughly compacted in layers. A roller may be used to compact larger areas, whereas a vibratory place compactor can work for small patches. Finally, a stringline should be used for checking the riding quality of the patch. A leveling or wedge course should be applied to depressed areas; this is a layer of asphalt which is applied in variable thickness to smooth irregularities in the contour of the surface. Following this, a seal coat should then be applied to the entire surface.

Patching and Resurfacing Ideally, patching and resurfacing should be carried out during warm, dry weather of 50 degrees Fahrenheit or higher because optimum bonding cannot occur on a wet surface. Warm asphalt mixtures applied to a cold surface may inhibit the compaction due to the mixture cooling too quickly. Seal coats also require dry, warm weather for best results. Sometimes it may be necessary to make temporary repairs during inclement weather conditions, to prevent further damage from occurring. Such repairs frequently must be redone, however, when milder weather returns. The repair techniques and materials in this chapter cover the most general and commonly occurring problems in asphalt pavement. Alternative methods and materials may be used, particularly in areas where it is necessary to adapt to local conditions. New proprietary water-based asphalt products are now on the market which can eliminate the need for hot-mix contractors for most seal-coat, crack -filling and pothole repairs. When using any of these, be sure the product works and the company has a good reputation and warranty. Final decisions about the specifics of each repair job should be made by consulting an asphalt expert or contractor. If there’s any doubt about the validity or technical accuracy of a contractor’s specifications or recommendations, the regional engineering office of the Asphalt Institute will gladly review and comment on the proposal. It is vital that there be complete agreement between the work requested and the bid by the contractor. Please note that the lowest bid may not always be the best way to go.

Locate this form under MAINTENANCE section of the on-line FORMS.

PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE WORKSHEET

CONCRETE MAINTENANCE

Concrete Mixers Curbs, sidewalks, landscape retaining walls or slabs around common recreation areas, clubhouses, pools, pump houses or individual sites are likely to be concrete. Concrete has long been a basic building material because of its strength, durability and ease of handling and working. Concrete is a mixture-- the principal ingredient of which is portland cement, so-named because its hardened form resembles rock quarried on Portland Island in the English Channel. In addition to cement, concrete can contain fine sand gravel, crushed rock, or various sizes of aggregate, depending on the concrete’s purpose. The final element is water, which gives the mixture its proper consistency. When portland cement is mixed with sand plus hydrated lime, it’s called mortar. You can make all these mixtures yourself by buying the separate ingredients and adding the right amount of water. But if the job is big enough, you can order pre-mixed concrete to specification that is delivered by pre-mix trucks. For small and medium patching jobs, pre-mixes are available in bags where only the water has to be added to make the proper concrete mixture. This costs more, but saves time, trouble and ensures having the right proportions every time. Whether you mix your own or buy pre-mix, never use more water than necessary because too much water weakens the mixture (even though it appears to be hardening into a strong, solid mass).

To make a mixture for small patching, use one part portland cement to two-and-a-half parts of fine clean sand. Use enough water so that a trowel tip run across the mixture leaves a smooth clean line without excess water or bumps. For mixture where heavy stresses will occur, try a 1-2-3 proportion, which is one part cement, two parts sand, and three parts gravel. A good mortar mix to use around brickwork or blocks is made with one part cement, two-and-a-half parts fine sand, plus about ten percent by bulk volume of hydrated lime. As a rule of thumb, about five gallons of water per cubic yard of concrete is needed. One gallon is usually enough for a 90 pound bag of pre-mixed concrete.

Working with Concrete To use and work concrete economically and effectively, you first must be able to estimate the quantity needed. Then, it is necessary to know what tools are needed, and how to use them to make the repairs. The old saying “plan your work and work your plan” takes on a special meaning when applied to a concrete project. The cement in concrete begins to irreversibly set three hours after water is added. Remember-- concrete weighs 150 pounds per cubic foot. If you are inexperienced and are planning a do-it-yourself project, get some advice from and expert or go to a library and consult the many books available which will give you step-by-step instructions on specific projects. Estimating Concrete Needs Figuring how much concrete you need is easy. If the project is rectangular or square, the volume needed is computed by multiplying the length, width and depth measures in feet. This gives you cubic feet as an answer. If you are buying ready-mix, divide cubic feet by 27 which gives you the number of cubic yards needed for the job. Ready-mix is sold by the cubic yard. To determine the area (in square feet) of a circle, multiply the square of the radius by 3.1416. Then use the formula above to determine cubic measurements. For triangular projects, multiply the length of the base by the height and divide the result by two. For quicker estimates, use the “Concrete Estimator” below. (To avoid running short of concrete, increase the estimate by 10 percent.)

Tools for Concrete Work For most new projects and many repair and maintenance jobs, a variety of tools will be needed. Quality concrete tools are essential to do a good job. A mason’s hammer helps drive form and alignment stakes, breaks stone and chips away crumbling concrete. A 50-foot tape, a mason’s line and line level are used to mark concrete-laying jobs. A darby, a float or a bull float and a finish trowel are necessary to smooth and finish concrete. The hoe and shovel are used to mix and place concrete. To help distribute the weight over fresh concrete, use a knee board of lumber or plywood. This prevents the repair person from sinking into wet concrete. A jointing tool is used to divide and smooth concrete, and is used to make the lines dividing a sidewalk, which are necessary to allow for expansion stresses. Edger’s smooth and finish the edges of concrete and must be used while the forms are still in position. Repairing Concrete Surfaces Spalling or any structural defect, such as a crack or a break, means that either the freeze-thaw phenomena has occurred or the concrete was placed incorrectly. Spalling describes the flaking of the top layer of concrete or hairline cracks or small breaks. These particular problems can be solved by different patch selections. It is useless to try to fill cavities in concrete with concrete because the new concrete will not stick to the old. It is preferable to chose one of the commercial patching materials listed on the chart below or expensive cements. To Repair a Spalled Area 1) Start by using a cold chisel (held at an angle) and a 2-pound sledge to remove the top1/2 to 1 inch of the surface. Undercut the edges to aid in locking together the new and existing concrete. (CAUTION: Wear safety glasses or other eye protection as you work.) 2) Brush out large particles and flush away dust and any remaining pieces of concrete with a strong stream of water. Some moisture will soak into the old concrete, but that is good. It should be damp when you apply patching material. Sponge outstanding water, however.

3) Trowel in slightly more patch material than you need to fill the hole; then, for small patches, screed off the excess with a trowel. If you are patching an area wider than the length of your trowel or float, use an adequate length of straight lumber as a screed. Work the patching material until it becomes uniform with the existing surface. To Replace a Severely Cracked or Broken Section of Concrete 1) Start by scoring the bottom of the control joints that separate the damaged section from adjacent ones. Use the mason chisel and the sledge with enough force to leave a line of white marks. Break out pieces by hammering at the same spot with an 8- or-10-pound mall until the concrete fractures. Once you have removed enough to be able to pry up large pieces of slab, do so and place a piece of the rubble underneath, as shown in the drawing. This makes it easier to break off additional chunks. Carefully chip away final areas along the control joints. Clear away the waste. 2) Install forms and expansion material as shown here, spread sand or crushed rock to fill in low spots in the subgrade and lay in wire mesh to strengthen the new section. Place a normal concrete mix in the form and finish while trying to duplicate the existing surface as closely as possible. Curing An overlooked part of concrete repairs is the curing process. This is the drying process that takes place in the days and weeks after concrete is installed. Concrete gets stronger

and more water resistant as it slowly dries. Slowly is the key word, because if concrete dries too fast, it can lose its inherent durability and water resistance. To keep new concrete from drying too rapidly in the intense sun, it must be kept moist. The best way to do this is to cover the concrete with straw, burlap, canvas or anything that will protect it from direct sun exposure. Add some water periodically for a week or ten days to prevent premature drying and to reach the point where the concrete can cure naturally.

Concrete Stain Removal Carefully mixed, installed, and cured, concrete is generally light in color. IF allowed to stain from any cause, it can look unsightly and detract from a Community’s facilities. Following is a guide for many common stains on concrete and their remedies. Many have more than one solution. If one doesn’t work, try another. ___________________________________________________________________ Type of Stain Remedy ___________________________________________________________________ Food, Grease, Oil, Lipstick 1) Mix dishwashing detergent in

warm water. Work the mixture into the stain with a stiff scrub brush or broom. Don’t skimp. Rinse with clean water.

2) Mix dishwashing detergent in warm water, adding ammonia, and follow the same rinsing procedures mentioned in step #1.

3) Scrub with mineral spirits. Oil 1) Place dry portland cement or

hydrated lime over the oil to absorb it. The mixture should remain on the oil for one day and then be scraped off.

2) Make a paste of 1 pound of trisodium phosphate to 1 gallon of water, thickened with whiting. Spread the paste over the stain to a thickness of 1/2” and let dry for 24 hours. Wash with clear water.

3) Try commercial degreasers sold in aerosol spray cans.

____________________________________________________________________ Paint, Candle Wax 1) Remove all the paint or wax you

can with a knife or putty knife. Then scrub the area with a metal bristled brush and cold water. 2) Apply mineral spirits to the area and scrub.

3) Try aluminum oxide abrasive or an abrasive brick.

____________________________________________________________________

____________________________________________________________________ Type of Stain Remedy ____________________________________________________________________ Blood, Coffee, Juice, Animal Waste 1) Remove the stain as soon as

possible, using dishwashing detergent in cold water. Scour the area with a stiff bristled brush or broom, flooding the area with detergent/water mixture. Rinse with cold, clean water.

_____________________________________________________________________ Tar, Heel Marks, Gum 1) Try scrubbing with dishwashing

detergent in warm water. 2) Scour the area with a stiff bristled

brush and mineral spirits (Don’t use a scouring pad). If some residue remains, flood the area with mineral spirits and blot with a soft cloth.

_____________________________________________________________________ Dirt, Grime 1) Hose down the surface with water

and scrub it with a stiff broom. 2) Mix dishwashing detergent with

warm water and scrub with a stiff brush or broom.

3) Mix trisodium phosphate with warm water and scrub with a stiff brush or broom.

_____________________________________________________________________ Soot 1) Apply detergent and water and

scrub. 2) Apply a mixture of one quart of

muriatic acid and one quart of water (wear gloves).

Resource Information: Better Homes and Gardens: Step-by-Step Masonry & Concrete. First Printing 1982. Better Homes and Gardens: Complete Guide to Home Repair Maintenance &

Improvement. First Edition, Fourth Printing 1980.

Locate form under MAINTENANCE/FORMS.

GAS SYSTEM MAINTENANCE CHECKLIST

GAS SYSTEM MAINTENANCE Introduction There are several different types of gas systems, any one of which can be found in a typical manufactured home community. Some require almost no direct involvement in maintenance, and others, defined as small gas systems, require complete management according to the rules and regulations of the Department of Transportation’s Title 49, Parts 191 and 192. The State of California also has regulations which must be met in order to operate a manufactured home community: the Department of Housing and Community Development (HCD), Title 25, Code of Regulations, which establishes standards for safety in construction and operation of a community. A gas distribution system which is operated and billed by a local utility company, such as PG&E, SoCal, or SDG&E, will be operated and maintained by the utility company. The majority of manufactured home communities in California are served gas through a master meter. The master-metered gas system is one in which the community buys gas from the gas utility in bulk and is billed according to one large meter, usually located at the front or entrance to the community. Gas is fed to the individual units through a gas piping system (usually underground). In most cases, there is a secondary meter at each manufactured home space that keeps tally of individual unit usage and is called a submeter. The community redistributes the gas to the individual units and is responsible for billing, maintenance, operations and emergency response according to the Department of Transportation (DOT) regulations, often referred to as the Pipeline Safety Code. The regulations apply to all piping systems that distribute and resell natural gas and all liquid petroleum gas distribution systems of 10 or more service connections. The Guidance Manual for Operators of Small Gas Systems outlines the basic steps to a safe gas system, and the book can be ordered from DOT. Unlike large utility companies, individual communities do not usually have the resources to keep qualified personnel on the site full time. Often, the size of a community system does not require full-time attention. There are a number of qualified consultants who specialize in performing routine maintenance and inspections, repairs and even emergency response needs for the owner of a small gas system. It is recommended that community owners rely on these consultants to carry out the requirements of the federal regulations. However, such a service does not release the community owner from the responsibility of making sure the community is in compliance with all regulations.

Reporting and Enforcement In the past, operators of community gas systems were subject to the same reporting requirements as all utility companies. This meant that once each year a report which described the condition of and showed repairs made to the system had to be filed with the Department of Transportation. The report forms were completed with the large utility company systems in mind, and the elements of the questionnaire did not really apply to a small gas system. Consequently, the form served no practical purpose other than to make sure that the individual communities were in compliance with the reporting requirements. In 1984, the federal government dropped the reporting requirement for manufactured home communities. In 1987, the State of California began to show interest in continuing the reporting requirement for manufactured home communities. WMA promoted the idea that the reporting for pipeline safety should be directed to HCD, which already had inspection and enforcement responsibility in the communities. A state law was passed which directed that each manufactured home community must file a completed federal report annually to HCD or its local agent in order to receive an annual permit to operate. There are signs that additional changes may be made in the reporting requirement. None of these changes will reduce the basic responsibility of the community operator to continue to comply with DOT regulations for pipeline safety. Reporting will continue to be required at the state level. If there is a doubt about the reporting procedures, contact your association regional office for the latest information. Operations and Maintenance Manual Every community with a master-meter system must have an Operation and Maintenance (O&M) manual which includes a detailed Emergency Plan. The O&M manual establishes written procedures for all actions to be taken in accordance with federal regulations. Every procedure must be described as it applies to a particular community. Each procedure described must then be performed in order to stay in compliance with its self-generated regulation. Records need to be kept for all procedures. In other words, it is a good idea to write up procedures that look good on paper and which are functional and reasonable. It is not a good idea to copy the O&M manual from another community or to photocopy a sample form. Even though the O&M manual is the basis for compliance with the federal regulations, it is probably the single most misunderstood component of the regulation. In fact, many communities may not even have one, and if they do, it is not being used as a working tool. It is best to develop an O&M if one is not available and to schedule regular reviews in order to make sure that it continues to be a viable working instrument. The components of the O&M must be presented in a clear manner in order to be used as an instructional aid for maintenance and management personnel. It remains the responsibility of

management to understand and approve actions being taken by an outside consultant to comply with the regulations. Components of an O&M Manual Some parts of the federal regulation must be performed on a routine basis. Some of these can be done by community personnel and others should be contracted out to a specialist. It is necessary to keep records of all the procedures carried out. Those records should be kept on the site in order to provide information in the case of an emergency. The O&M manual can be broken down into sections for ease of use: 1. The routine inspections and maintenance of the system. 2. An Emergency Plan. 3. A plan for instruction of community personnel as well as an educational program regarding the properties of natural gas, propane and proper reporting of trouble for the safety of the community. 4. A development of design, construction and repair methods according to federal requirements. Routine Inspection and Maintenance There are several types of inspections which must be scheduled routinely. The regulations include minimal requirements for compliance. In some cases, it is more convenient or prudent to schedule more frequent inspections. One of the strongest arguments for more frequent inspections is that, unlike utility companies which have full-time employees and are free to perform emergency or unscheduled repairs when a problem arises between inspection schedules, manufactured home communities are seldom prepared to deal with such incidents. The most important tool for performing the routine inspections in a community is a correct, up-to-date map of the gas piping system. It is helpful to have all underground systems mapped and identified as well, in order to prevent damage to underground utilities when digging. The map should include a description and location of the cathodic protection system, if there is one, as well as location of the key valves. It is essential to know the technical specifications of the communities gas distribution system such as age and material make-up of the piping; the distribution pressure; and the location of the master meter(s), shut-off valve(s), cathodic protection system rectifier (if there is one), anode bed(s), key valves, etc. This information should be kept with the gas system map in the community office.

Cathodic Protection Prevention of corrosion is an important aspect of gas safety. Metal pipes must be protected from the effect of electrolysis underground so they are not subject to potentially dangerous leaks. It is necessary to investigate the potential for corrosion in the soil by doing an electrical survey, or “corrosion evaluation survey” every three years. If evidence of corrosion is found, a cathodic protection system must be installed. For communities that have a cathodic protection system, the regulations require that it be checked by a qualified corrosion specialist every year. If there is an empressed current system, then the rectifier must be read every other month to assure that it is delivering current to the underground system. Gas Leak Survey One danger of natural or LPG gas is its ability to travel underground undetected and build up to an explosive level in a confined space where a spark can set off and explosion. The odor which is added in order to warn of a dangerous buildup can be absorbed by the soil, so it is possible to have an explosive situation without being able to smell gas. The best way to find underground gas leaks is with a gas sniffer that can detect gas down to 1 part per million (ppm). Finding a small amount of gas coming to the surface of a lawn or pavement can lead to the discovery of a much larger leak that has been migrating along the pipeline. Most gas leak specialists use an instrument called an organic vapor analyzer to detect gas. Other instruments such as a combustible gas indicator or other sensing devices can detect gas down to 50 ppm. These are helpful in pinpointing leaks above ground as well as below. A simple method of detecting above ground leaks on piping fittings, connections and valves is to spray a solution of dishwashing liquid and water with a little glycerin added. A bubble will form at the leak. The speed with which the bubble grows will indicate the size of the leak. The following are indications of a gas leak, other than odor:

1 Vegetation is affected by presence of gas; notice changes in grass, shrubs and foliage, either dying or turning color.

2 Insects are sometimes attracted to the area of a gas leak.

3 A white fungus-like growth may form in the area of a gas leak, especially in the soil near the pipe.

4 Large leaks may be discovered by the hissing sound of gas escaping or by bubbles rising up through water puddles.

5 Gradual or sudden increase in gas usage without obvious cause can reveal the presence of leaks.

Detecting gas leaks, particularly those underground, is a key part of a gas safety program. Regulations require that a community schedule periodic gas leak surveys as often as

necessary, but not to exceed a period of five years. As discussed earlier, it may be wise to schedule more often than the minimum. The periodic gas leak survey should be performed by a person experienced in that area. It is best to follow a prudent schedule for gas leak survey on metal piping systems; other materials such as PVC do not corrode, but may develop cracks from ground disturbance or digging. Scheduling Periodic Leak Survey and Corrosion Inspection It is advisable to schedule inspections to coincide with regular activities of the community, if possible. Communities that have a rectifier ought to consider reading the rectifier every month, along with reading the gas meters. Even though that is twice as often as required, it may be easier than having to keep a separate schedule just for reading the rectifier. Gas leak surveys can be keyed to the annual required cathodic protection system inspection-- or if there is no protection on the metallic system, every three years for the corrosion evaluation survey. Unprotected metallic piping systems that begin to have underground leaks caused by corrosion must have a cathodic protection system installed. In a case where a cathodic protection system is not feasible, gas leak surveys should at least be scheduled annually. Plastic systems can be surveyed less often if they are new, or in good shape with no history of underground leaks. Even then it is recommended that a leak survey be performed every three years. Other Routine Inspections It is necessary to patrol over the gas pipeline to identify and inspect areas that pose the potential for danger or damage due to external forces such as digging. Patrolling must be done at least four times a year. Odorization of gas is performed by the serving utility company; but, it is necessary to check to see that the odor level is adequate for the community’s residents. Periodic check of the odor level can be done in a variety of ways: the most practical is to have several of the residents, preferably older residents or smokers who are known to have a lowered sense of smell, test the gas. Do this by having each person attempt to smell the gas from an open valve. Run the test at the end of the system far from the master meter. Although there is no required minimum period for these inspections, DOT has advised that quarterly inspections are recommended. Inspection and service of key valves must be performed annually. The main shut-off valve on the master meter is a key valve. Other valves on the gas mains can be considered key valves if they are relied upon to isolate sections of the gas system. REMEMBER THAT DATES AND FINDINGS OF ALL INSPECTIONS MUST BE RECORDED. KEEP RECORDS AVAILABLE ON SITE.

Routine Operations and Maintenance There are very few actions required for the daily operations of a small gas system; however, it is necessary to identify and describe procedures for operations. For instance, line markers must be placed along underground lines near areas where there is a possibility of damage or interference, and along above-ground mains that are accessible to the public. There are specific requirements for the abandonment of facilities and reinstatement of service lines. Safety measures must be taken to prevent accidental ignition of gas. Repairs When a leak is detected during a gas leak inspection, it should be graded according to the American Society of Mechanical Engineers (ASME) standards for remedial action. The grading system, grades 1, 2 and 3, are based on measure of relative hazard, with grade 1 being the most hazardous. Repairs must be started immediately on a grade 1 leak. Grade 2 leaks must be scheduled for repair as soon as possible (not to exceed 6 months). Grade 3 leaks should be rechecked in one year to make sure they have not deteriorated to grade 2. Whenever repairs are made on the underground piping system or on the cathodic protection system, the changes must be noted on the system map and in the permanent records. REMEMBER, IT IS A REQUIREMENT TO KEEP ACCURATE RECORDS OF REPAIRS. The Emergency Plan A detailed plan to handle emergencies involving the release of gas or damage to the gas system must be in place and described fully in the O&M manual. Procedures to provide for public safety and to prevent property damage due to natural occurrences, accidents or unusual construction situations must be followed. The plan should contain the following elements: emergency notification list, map of key valve locations, location of emergency equipment, instructions on responding to leak reports and interruption of service, a check list for a major emergency, reporting requirements (with a copy of a telephone report form), procedures for reinstatement of service due to outage and a program of education, training, and accident investigation. A copy of the plan and appropriate charts should be posted in a conspicuous place. It is important that the plan be written in such a way as to keep it current and applicable. Telephone numbers and names should be reviewed and corrected periodically. The title

rather than the individual’s name should be used in the instructions. For instance, it is best to indicate that the manager or his agent be responsible for evaluating the severity of the emergency. Education and Training There is a two-fold requirement regarding education and training for the gas distribution system. One is to train all personnel who will use the O&M manual or be involved with emergency situations. The other is to develop a program of education for the residents of the manufactured home community. A public education program can be devised with the assistance of the Pacific Coast Gas Association or the American Gas Association. Both organizations have developed literature to explain the properties of natural gas, the warning signs of danger and the actions recommended to assure safety. In addition, it is helpful to instruct residents about steps they should take to report a possible emergency situation. Periodic presentations can be given in the community center or through the community newsletter which remind the residents of the plan. It is also helpful to post notices and posters promoting gas safety. Design, Repairs and Construction The intent of the Pipeline Safety Code is to assure that the gas distribution system is designed and constructed to the safest standards possible. The O&M plan must describe these procedures, keeping in line with Federal codes and HCD’s Title 25 (California). Regulations require that construction and repair procedures be included in the O&M manual. It is possible to establish a materials and suppliers list based on the knowledge of the gas system’s technical specifications. Qualified personnel must make all repairs according to established codes and manufacturer’s recommendations. Piping system materials have changed over the years. In many older Communities the pipes are black steel with a coating to protect from corrosion. There are several types of plastic piping installed: The two most prevalent are polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and polyethylene (PE). Some materials are much more popular than others due to the latest information on safety and durability. The same is true with fittings, risers and cathodic protection equipment. Above all, the components must be compatible. Propane With only certain limited exceptions, all of the foregoing applies to propane systems that supply ten (10) or more customers from a single source. Because of the nature of the fuel, there are special gas leak identification methods which should be used (e.g. “barholing”) and which require a specialist to perform.

Under California law, the annual reporting requirement (completion of the federal annual report form) is not required at this time for any propane system. This does not mean, however, that the other federal requirements discussed above do not apply. Communities where individual homes are served by their own self-contained propane tanks have no regulated responsibility. In these cases, it is recommended that the general emergency plan include instructions for reporting such incidents and emergencies to the proper local authorities. Conclusion It may be more practical for some communities to hire a qualified consultant who knows the proper procedures and federal guidelines, rather than have an employee establish and perform construction and repair procedures. Do not hesitate to question your consultants about their actions. Operation of a master-metered gas distribution system can be relatively simple and routine if good procedures are established and followed. Safety and reliability will be attained, which is the intent of the entire Pipeline Safety Code, and the community’s residents will benefit from it.

Locate forms under MAINTENANCE/FORMS

COLD WEATHER PROCEDURES AND CHECKLIST