interweave knitting accessories

SMALL PROJECTSSmall Budgets

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Favorite Scarves, HatsSocks & Mitts

Simple Get Started with SocksTop Techniques for Great Results

ScarvesSimple to Complex

Fun HatsPlain & Patterned

Sock Patterns for Family, Friends & You

Mitts & Glovesto Warm Your Hands

Quick Finishing Tips

SPECIALISSUE!

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PLYMOUTH YARN®

For a fine yarn shop near you, please visit our website plymouthyarn.com

Small Projects – Big Results

Dress it up with

BABY ALPACA GRANDE

1645 1756 1751

1646 1758 F282

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Simple Scar ves8 Here and There Cables Norah Gaughan Instructions page 14

9 Burma Rings Scarf Ann Budd Instructions page 14

9 Neck WarmerEmily Bix ler Instructions page 16

9 Verde Emily Bix ler Instructions page 16

10 Pom-pom Scarf Krist in Nicholas Instructions page 18

11 Huckleberry Ascot Kat Coyle Instructions page 18

11 Misty GardenJo Sharp Instructions page 20

11 Midwest MoonlightIvy Bigelow Instructions page 20

12 Zigzag StripesDebbie Bl iss Instructions page 22

12 Penobscot Si lk ScarfCyrene Slegona Instructions page 22

12 Fri l l Col larEmily Bix ler Instructions page 24 17 Str ipes

Fanc y Scar ves28 Forbes ForestKathy Zimmerman Instructions page 32

29 Frothy ScarfAnn Budd Instructions page 33

29 Never Wimpy WimplePrisci l la Gibson-Roberts Instructions page 34

30 Shibori-esque Neck WrapMags Kandis Instructions page 35

31 Vintage VelvetLisa Daniels Instructions page 36

31 Russian Lace ScarfDixie Fal ls and Jane Fournier Instructions page 36

31 Larkspur ScarfKara Gott Instructions page 38 35 Felt ing Resources 37 Lace Knitt ing Hints

Wraps42 Orenburg Lace TriangleGalina Khmeleva Instructions page 50

42 Ruff led Capelet with SleevesPam Al len Instructions page 52

43 Summer ShawletteSandi Wiseheart Instructions page 53

43 Lace PonchoSusan Sternl ieb Instructions page 55

43 Mini Poncho Meema Spadola Instructions page 56

43 Chunky Lace WrapLisa Shroyer Instructions page 56

44 Arrowhead StoleMary Jane Mucklestone Instructions page 57

44 Star Rib Mesh Poncho Mary Jane Mucklestone Instructions page 57

44 Stockinette and Seed Poncho Cyrene Slegona Instructions page 58

44 Litt le Arrowhead ShawlPam Al len Instructions page 58

50 Graft ing Technique

contentsInterweave Knits Accessories • SPECIAL ISSUE 2009

PROJEC TS

11

T ECHNIQU E FE AT UR ES

26 Making Sense of Symbols

46 Finishing Detai ls

66 C ircular Knitt ing

81 Gett ing Star ted with Socks

116 T he Grand P lan Mitten C har t

42

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Hats60 Koolhaas HatJared Flood Instructions page 68

61 Sabrina TamInterweave Knits Staff Instructions page 69

61 Sideways Grande HatLaura I rwin Instructions page 69

62 December Lights TamMary Jane Mucklestone Instructions page 70

63 Lock Nest HatTeri Barr Instructions page 71

63 Earf lap HatsInterweave Knits Staff Instructions page 72

63 Larkspur HatKara Gott Instructions page 73

64 Peek-A-Boo ClocheMona Schmidt Instructions page 74

65 Tweed BeretKristen TenDyke Instructions page 75

65 Brioche Helmet HatKel ly Br idges Instructions page 76

65 Molly’s HeadbandPam Al len Instructions page 79

79 Lace Tips

Simple Socks88 Rib and Cable SocksNancy Bush Instructions page 92

89 Baby’s First SockAnn Budd Instructions page 93

89 Cowgirl Sl ipper SocksAnn Budd Instructions page 94

90 Citr ine SockletsMari lyn Webster Instructions page 95

91 Infant’s Fancy Si lk SockNancy Bush Instructions page 97

95 Old Norwegian Cast-On 96 Yarnover Backward 96 Sssp Decrease

Fanc y Socks98 Up-Down Spiral SoxSandy Cushman Instructions page 103

99 Bazaar SocksPrisci l la Gibson-Roberts Instructions page 104

99 Algonquin SocksGayle Bunn Instructions page 108

100 A Holiday StockingNancy Bush Instructions page 109

100 Annetrelac SocksSandy Beadle Instructions page 111

100 Traveler’s StockingsNancy Bush Instructions page 112

101 Bells & Whistles SocksMona Schmidt Instructions page 113

102 Wishbone SocksNancy Bush Instructions page 115

104 Setup for Working a Square Toe in the Round

104 Picking up Afterthought Heel St i tches 105 Ssp Decrease

105 Short-Row Toe & Heel Construct ion

110 Kihnu Vits

Mitts and Gloves118 Subway MittensColleen Meagher Instructions page 124

119 Cornflower MittsDeborah Newton Instructions page 124

120 Mosaic MittsSandy Cushman Instructions page 125

120 Alpaca GlovesLesl ie Scanlon Instructions page 126

120 Keep Them Warm WristletsSusan Strawn Instructions page 127

121 The Point About CuffsVicki Square Instructions page 128

122 Je Suis Jol ie MittsClara Parkes Instructions page 128

123 Layered Turkish GlovesMari Lynn Patr ick Instructions page 129

123 Knit Cuffs with a Cable TwistDeborah Pul l iam Instructions page 131

123 Fingerless MittsDeborah Newton Instructions page 131

132 Cables

99

123

On the Cover: Larkspur Scarf and Hat. See projects on pages 31 and 63

PROJEC TS c o n t i n u e d

4 Strands

133 Glossary

136 Sources for Suppl ies

137 Advert isers’ Index

142 Project Index

144 Ravel ings Jenni fer Na s tu

DEP TS

62

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A D V E R T I S E M E N T

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4 Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS • interweaveknits.com

strands

Many of us here at Interweave are hardcore knitters.

In fact, the Interweave “lineage” includes a number of knitters who, through the

pages of our magazines and books, have helped you learn good solid techniques,

improved your skills, and inspired you through their projects and the projects of

many talented designers. We knit in our heads as we read patterns, and we knit

with our hands, which add up to our staff projects that we share with you. And

we hear directly from you, our dear readers.

In fact, our customer service staff hears from you often with such questions

as, “I want to make the hat that I saw in such-and-such magazine (or book), but

I can’t fi nd that issue.” Or “I can’t remember what issue the blue cabled scarf was

in. Can you help me?” So we decided to make it easy for you to fi nd many of the

accessories all in one place. From the archives, we culled and collected projects

that are both our favorites and ones we think you’ll enjoy making.

Th rough these pages, we hope you’ll fi nd the perfect scarf, sock, hat or mitt.

Or, if a few years back, you weren’t quite ready to tackle making a sock but you

are now, you can get started with the guidance from expert Ann Budd. Or, you

want to try a new edging for a scarf you just fi nished: check out Finishing Details.

Need help reading a chart—fi nd it on page 26. Oh, there’s plenty more.

What better time for this collection than during the season when you want to

knit something quickly as a gift or have a hat, scarf or mitts at-the-ready when

the snow fl ies.

Wishing you hours of happy clicking,

K N I T S A C C E S S O R I E S E D I T O R I A LEDITOR Marilyn Murphy

ASSISTANT EDITOR Amy Palmer

K N I T S A C C E S S O R I E S C R E A T I V E S E R V I C E SDESIGNER Pamela Norman

PRODUCTION COORDINATOR Jeff Rowles

K N I T S E D I T O R I A LEDITORIAL DIRECTOR Marilyn Murphy

EDITOR Eunny JangMANAGING EDITOR Laura Rintala

SENIOR EDITOR Lisa ShroyerASSISTANT EDITOR Sharon Riggs

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Rebecca Daniels YARN GROUP ASSISTANT EDITOR Amy Palmer

K N I T S C R E A T I V E S E R V I C E SDESIGNER Kit Kinseth

PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Trish FaubionPRODUCTION COORDINATOR Dean Howes

PRODUCTION EDITOR Nancy ArndtPHOTOGRAPHY

PROJECTS As notedILLUSTRATION Gayle Ford, Marjorie Leggitt

P U B L I S H I N GGROUP PUBLISHER David Pyle

MEDIA SALES DIRECTOR Julie Macdonald DISPLAY ADVERTISING MANAGERS Tiff any Zerges,

Leanne PresslyAD TRAFFICKERS Melissa Marie Brown, Teresa Warren

CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING Stephanie GriessMARKETING MANAGER Annie Hartman Bakken

CIRCULATION MANAGER Jodi Smith

Projects and information are for inspiration and personal use only. We’ve made every eff ort to ensure the accuracy of the contents of this publication. However, human errors do occur. If you have questions regarding a pattern in this issue, please visit us online at www.interweaveknits.com/corrections.

Interweave Knits does not recommend, approve, or endorse any of the advertisers, products, services, or views advertised in Knits. Nor does Knits evaluate the advertisers’ claims in any way. You should, therefore, use your own judgment in evalu ating the advertisers, products, services, and views advertised in Knits.

Interweave Knits (ISSN 1088-3622) is published quarterly by Interweave Press LLC, 201 E. Fourth St., Loveland, CO 80537-5655. (970) 669-7672. USPS #017-249. Periodicals postage paid at Loveland, CO 80538, and additional mailing offi ces. All contents of this issue of Interweave Knits are copy-righted by Interweave Press LLC, 2009. All rights reserved. Projects and information are for inspiration and personal use only. Reproduction in whole or in part is prohibited, except by permission of the publisher. Subscription rate is $26.95/one year in the U.S., $30.95/one year in Canada, and $33.95/one year in international coun tries (surface delivery). U.S. funds only.

POSTMASTER: Please send address changes to Inter-weave Knits, PO Box 469117, Escondido, CA 92046-9117.

Visit the Interweave website at interweave.com.For advertising information, call Tiff any Zerges at (970) 669-7455, e-mail tiff [email protected], or visit the website at interweave.com.For sales information, call (800) 272-2193, e-mail [email protected] editorial inquiries, call (800) 272-2193, e-mail [email protected], or write to 201 E. Fourth Street, Loveland, CO 80537-5655.

Accessories 2009

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http://www.interweave.com

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Accessories 2009 • INTERWEAVE KNITS 5

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For questions regarding our book program, call (970) 669-7672 Monday–Friday, 8:00 a.m.–5:00 p.m., or e-mail [email protected]

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VP, Events & Education Sara Dumford

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David Pyle

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John P. Bolton

SUBSCRIBERS: Have a question about your Interweave Knits subscrip tion? We have the answer. Visit our website, e-mail, call, or fax your question, and we’ll be happy to assist you. Go to www.interweaveknits.com and click on Subscribe for new subscrip-tions, renewals, gift orders, and to change your address, pay your bill, and to submit subscription questions or concerns.

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Visit our website interweaveknits.com

Independent Publishers Since 1975

SWAN LAKE WIMPLE is one of 5 accessories to knit

in “DANCING ON AIR” with SUPERIOR, a luxurious

cashmere-silk yarn

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BAZAAR SOCKSby Priscilla Gibson-Roberts

Page 104

B O O K S

Interweave Presswww.interweave.com

(800) 272-2193

F E LT I N G

artfelt®www.itsartfelt.com

(800) 255-1278

M A I L O R D E R

Got Yarnwww.GotYarn.com

(888) [email protected]

N O T I O N S

The Fibersphere“The Ultimate in Fiber

Protection”www.thefibersphere.com

(661) 312-8557

S U P P L I E S

6060 Animal Plastic Eyeswww.6060.etsy.com

[email protected]

Stitch Diva Studioswww.stitchdiva.com

W E B S I T E S TO V I S I T

Elannwww.elann.com

Gail Knitswww.gailknits.com

(702) 838-7713

Harrisville Designs Yarnswww.harrisville.com

(603) 827-3333

Knit Purlwww.knit-purl.com

(503) 227-2999(866) 656-KNIT

Peace, Love & Yarnwww.peaceloveyarn.com

(877) 795-9798

Seaport Yarnwww.seaportyarn.com

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Seed Stitch Fine Yarnwww.seedstitchfineyarn.com

(978) 744-5557

Sweet Grass Wool www.sweetgrasswool.com

(888) 222-1880

The Elegant Ewewww.elegantewe.com

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The Knitters Mercantilewww.knittersmercantile.com

(614) 888-8551

The Knitting Roomwww.knitroom.com

(877) 264-7229

The Loopy Ewewww.theloopyewe.com

(888) 527-9181

The Spinning Wheel Sleuthwww.spwhsl.com(978) 475-8790

YA R N S

Uptown Stitcheswww.UptownStitches.com

[email protected]

Yarnsisterswww.theyarnsisters.com

(877) 582-2900

Apple Lainewww.applelaine.com

[email protected]

Brown Sheep Companywww.brownsheep.com

(308) 635-2198

Classic Elite Yarnswww.classiceliteyarns.com

(800) 444-5648

Gypsy Girl Creationswww.stonebarnfibers.com

(815) 968-1735

Halcyon Yarnwww.halcyonyarn.com

(800) 341-0282

Marr Haven Wool Farmwww.marrhaven.com

(269) 673-8800

Paradise Fiberswww.paradisefibers.net

(888) 320-7746

Plymouth Yarn Companywww.plymouthyarn.com

(215) 788-0459

Tahki/Stacy Charles Inc.www.tahkistacycharles.com

(800) 338-YARN

Wool2Dye4www.Wool2Dye4.com

[email protected]

knitting connection • website listings to advertise here call Stephanie Griess at (877) 613-4630

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GIFT GUIDE: Sock, Mittens, Scarves & More

• • • • • Make One Yarn Studio

www.make1yarns.com1-403-802-4770

Finish your lovely cardi with a set of these beautiful lampworked glass

buttons made by Jodan of Th ankdog, exclusively for Make One. Or choose

one of her exquisite beads for embellishment!

• • • • • MissBabs

Hand-Dyed Yarns & Fibers

www.missbabs.com

Over 100 nature-inspired colors for all your sock, scarf, shawl,

and hat needs!

• • • • • Mountain Colors Yarns

www.mountaincolors.com

Sally’s Faux Fur HatSally Melville has designed this clever hat.

It uses a new reversible “knit-weave” stitch. Makes a warm addition to your

winter wardrobe. Available in kits with a skein each of Mountain Colors Moguls & 3-Ply Wool.

• • • • • Maggie Pace’s Pick Up Sticks

www.pickupsticksonline.com1-510-339-6807

Small Balls, Small PriceSmall Balls are perfect for accessories and multicolored projects. Th ese 65-yard balls of 100% worsted weight wool come in 24 yummy colors. At $3.25 per ball, they’re

great as stocking stuff ers for your favorite knitter -- even if that’s you! Available at retail

stores and www.pickupsticksonline.com.

• • • • •

Simply Sock Yarn

www.simplysockyarn.com

Available in over 60 solid colors, new Simply Sock Yarn is perfect for

intricately patterned, sports team, or fair isle socks. We also carry Opal, Trekking,

Malabrigo and more!

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HERE AND THERE CABLESby Norah GaughanYARN Reynolds Odyssey, distributed by JCA Page 14

S I M P L E

S C A R V E SSimple scarves are a simple pleasure. All it takes is a little effort, some basic stitches and tools, and a stash of yarns.

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VERDEby Emily Bixler

YARN Classic Elite Inca AlpacaPage 16

NECK WARMERby Emily BixlerYARN Classic Elite Inca AlpacaPage 16

BURMA RINGS SCARFby Ann Budd

YARN Crystal Palace Cotton ChenillePage 14


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POM-POM SCARFby Kristin NicholasYARN Classic Elite La GranPage 18


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MISTY GARDENby Jo SharpYARN GGH Soft Kid, distributed by Muench Yarns Page 20

HUCKLEBERRY ASCOTby Kat CoyleYARN Blue Sky Alpacas MélangePage 18

MIDWEST MOONLIGHTby Ivy BigelowYARN Green Mountain Spinnery Cotton ComfortPage 20


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ZIGZAG STRIPESby Debbie BlissYARN Filatura Di Crosa Zara, distributed by Tahki Stacy CharlesPage 22

PENOBSCOT SILK SCARFby Cyrene SlegonaYARN Fiesta Yarns La LuzPage 22

FRILL COLLARby Emily BixlerYARN Filatura Di Crosa Baby Kid Extra and Aiko, distributed by Tahki Stacy CharlesPage 24

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HERE AND THERE CABLES

N o r a h G a u g h a n

Skill Level Easy

Finished Size 7½" wide and 72" long.Yarn Reynolds Odyssey (100% Merino; 104 yd [95 m]/50 g; Worsted #4 Medium): #408 light green mix, 8 balls. Yarn distributed by JCA.Needles Size 7 (4.5 mm). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Cable needle (cn); tapestry needle.Gauge 20 sts and 25 rows = 4" in St st.

NOTES

• Because this pattern has an odd number of rows, the cable row will alternate be-tween the “right” and “wrong” sides each time it is worked.

SCARFCO 74 sts. Work reversible cable patt as foll:Rows 1–6: P1, *k3, p3; rep from * to last st, k1.Row 7: *Sl 6 sts onto cn and hold in front, p1, k3, p1, sl last st from cn to left needle and purl it, (p1, k3, p1) from cn, p2, k3, p2; rep from * to last 2 sts, p1, k1.

Rep Rows 1–7 until piece measures about 72" from beg, ending with Row 5 of patt. BO all sts in patt on next row.

FINISHINGWeave in loose ends. Block gently, spreading out scarf slightly.

Norah Gaughan is the design director for Ber-roco Yarns and author of Knitting Nature: 39 Designs Inspired by Patterns in Nature.

This project was excerpted from Scarf Style (Interweave, 2004).

Project Photos: Carol Kaplan

BURMA RINGS SCARF

A n n B u d d

Skill Level Easy

Finished Size About 3½" wide and 82½" long.Yarn Crystal Palace Cotton Chenille (100% cotton; 98 yd [89 m]/50 g; Chunky #5 Bulky): #1404 dark lilac (A), 2 skeins; #9660 purple(B), #4021 red velvet (C), #9784 lacquer red (D), and #1219 bougainvilla (E), 1 skein each.Needles Size 5 (3.75 mm): 40" circular (cir). Notions Tapestry needle.Gauge About 15 sts and 24 rows = 4" in St st. Exact gauge is not critical for this project, but diff erences in gauge may produce a scarf with diff erent fi nished dimensions.

SCARFWith A, CO 310 sts. Beg with a RS row, work back and forth in rows as foll:

Rows 1–5: With A, work 5 rows even in St st (knit RS rows; purl WS rows).Rows 6–9: With B, work 4 rows even in rev St st (purl RS rows; knit WS rows). Row 10: (WS; tuck row) Fold last 4 rows in half along purl side of fabric, forming a tuck protruding to the RS to bring Row 5 (last row worked with A) up close to the

needle. With B, *insert needle through purl bump of Row 5 directly below next st on needle, then through st on needle, then knit through both loops tog; rep from * to end of row—fi rst tuck completed.Rows 11–15: With C, rep Rows 1–5.Rows 16–19: With D, rep Rows 6–9.Row 20: (WS, tuck row) Fold last 4 rows in half as for Row 10 to bring last row of previous color stripe up close to the needle; when working Row 20 this will be Row 15, the last row worked with C. With D, *insert needle through purl bump of last row of previous color stripe directly below next st on needle, then through st on needle, then knit through both loops; rep from * to end of row.Rows 21–25: With E, rep Rows 11–15.Rows 26–30: With A, rep Rows 16–20, using A for tuck Row 30.Rows 31–35: With B, rep Rows 11–15.Rows 36–40: With C, rep Rows 16–20, using C for tuck Row 40.Rows 41–45: With D, rep Rows 11–15.Rows 46–50: With E, rep Rows 16–20, using E for tuck Row 50.


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With A, work 2 rows even in St st. BO all sts.

FINISHINGWeave in loose ends, hiding ends in center of tucks when possible. No blocking is necessary.

Ann Budd is the former senior editor of Interweave Knits and is currently a book editor. She writes and knits in Boulder, Colorado.

This project was excerpted from Folk Style (Interweave, 2007).


NECK WARMER E m i l y B i x l e r

Skill Level Beginner

Finished Size About 3¾" wide and 28" long at longer edge.Yarn Classic Elite Inca Alpaca (100% alpaca; 109 yd [100 m]/50 g; Worsted #4 Medium): #1198 persimmon, 2 skeins. Needles Size 10 (6.00 mm). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge. Notions Tapestry needle. Gauge 13½ sts and 11 rows = 2" in k1, p1 rib, relaxed, with yarn doubled.

SCARFWith 2 strands of yarn held tog, CO 25 sts. Set-up row: *K1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1. Work in rib as established (knit the knits; purl the purls) for 15 more rows—piece measures about 3" from CO. Shape slits: Keeping in rib patt as established,

make slits as foll:Row 1: (RS) Work 3 rib sts, BO 7 sts, work 15 rib sts.Row 2: Work 15 rib sts, use the backward loop method (see Glossary) to CO 7 sts, work 3 rib sts.Rows 3 and 4: Work 2 rows even in rib.Row 5: Work 15 rib sts, BO 7 sts, work 3 rib sts.Row 6: Work 3 rib sts, use the backward loop method to CO 7 sts, work 15 rib sts.Work even in rib until piece measures 11" from CO, ending with a WS row.Divide tails: Divide for two “tails” as foll: (RS) Work 11 rib sts, BO 3 sts, work 11 rib sts—11 sts each side. Working with the group of sts where the yarn is attached, cont in rib as established until this side of piece measures 28" from CO. BO all sts in rib patt. Rejoin yarn to other group of 11 sts with WS facing, and work these sts even in rib until this side of piece measures 26½" from CO. BO all sts.

FINISHINGWeave in loose ends. To wear, wrap scarf around neck, and thread tails through slits.

Emily Bixler lives and knits in Portland, Oregon.


VERDEE m i l y B i x l e r

Skill Level Intermediate

Finished Size 20" circumference and 3½" high.Yarn Classic Elite Inca Alpaca, 100% alpaca; 109 yd [100 m]/50 g; Worsted #4 Medium): #1108 lamas heather (A), 1 skein; #1135 cala cala moss (B), 1 skein; #1130 dahlia (C), 1 skein.Needles Size 7 (4.5 mm) needles. Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. Notions Tapestry needle.Gauge 20 sts and 22 rows = 4" in St st.

NOTES

• Collar is knit in rows as a fl at piece, then sewn into a tube. Yarnovers in the collar leave holes through which the leaf tie will be threaded.

• Only change colors when row instruc-tions specify to do so.

COLLARWith A, CO 100 sts. Row 1: (RS) K3, *p3, k4; rep from * to last 6 sts, p3, k3.Row 2: (WS) P3, *k3, p4; rep from * to last 6 sts, k3, p3. Row 3: Rep Row 1. Row 4: Rep Row 2. Row 5: With B, k1f&b, knit to end—101 sts. Row 6: With C, purl. Row 7: With A, k1, *sl 1 pwise, k1; rep from * to end of row. Row 8: With B, k1, *with yarn in front, sl 1 pwise, take yarn to back, k1; rep from * to end of row.


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Row 9: With C, knit. Row 10: With A, purl. Row 11: K2tog, knit to end—100 sts rem. Row 12: Purl.Row 13: (eyelet row) K3, *k2tog, [yo] 2 times, ssk, k3; rep from * to last 6 sts, k2tog, [yo] 2 times, ssk, k2. Row 14: P3, *p fi rst yo, k second yo, p5; rep from * to last 6 sts, p fi rst yo, k second yo, p4. Row 15: Knit. Row 16: Purl. Row 17 : With C, k1f&b, knit to end—101 sts. Row 18: With B, purl.Row 19: With A, rep Row 7. Row 20: With C, rep Row 8. Row 21: With B, k2tog, knit to end—100 sts rem. Row 22: With A, purl. Row 23: Rep Row 1. Row 24: Rep Row 2.Row 25: Rep Row 1. Row 26: Rep Row 2.

BO all sts in rib pattern. Sew side seam, making collar into a tube. Weave in ends.

LEAF TIEWith B, CO 2 sts. Row 1: (RS) Knit. Row 2: (WS) [K1f&b] 2 times—4 sts. Row 3: Knit. Row 4: K1, [k1f&b] 2 times, k1—6 sts. Row 5: Knit. Row 6: K1, k1f&b, knit to last 2 sts, k1f&b, k1—8 sts.Rep Rows 5 and 6 until you have 16 sts; stop working after fi nishing a RS row.

TIERow 1: (WS) K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Row 2: (RS) Knit. Rep Rows 1 and 2 until you have 4 sts left. Next row: (WS) Purl. Next row: (RS) Knit. Rep last 2 rows until piece measures 18" from beg tip of leaf.

STRIPES

Stripes are an easy way to add multiple colors to your work. Th ey can be as narrow or as bold as you desire, and you can use many stripes in one project. Several shades of one hue give a subtle, almost dimensional eff ect, while contrasting colors make a work vibrate. Stripes are a fun way to experiment with color eff ects that can be further enhanced by stripe width and placement.

When you’re working stripes back and forth in rows, it is easier, but not essential, to work in two-row increments so that all stripes begin on a knit row; in this way the yarn will always be at the edge where you need it. When you’re working narrow stripes of just a few colors, it is not necessary to cut the yarn when you change colors—the unused color can be carried loosely up the

side of your work for a few rows (Figure 1) or you can carry the colors for more than two rows by twisting the colors every other row (Figure 2). If you are working circularly, the yarn will always be at the beginning of the round.

To change colors, simply begin a new row (or round) with your new color. If the edge stitch seems too loose, you can tie the yarn end temporarily (you will undo the knot and work the end in later) to the color you are stopping close to the edge of your work (Figure 3). Proceed with the new color for the desired number of rows and then either return to the original color or add yet another color. When you are fi nished, work the yarn ends carefully into the backside of the matching color (Figure 4).

SECOND LEAFRow 1: (WS) K1, [k1f&b] 2 times, k1—6 sts. Row 2: (RS) Knit. Row 3: K1, k1f&b, knit to last 2 sts, k1f&b, k1—8 sts. Rep Rows 2 and 3 until you have 16 sts, then rep Row 2 again. Next row: (WS) K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Next row: (RS) Knit. Rep last 2 rows until you have 2 sts left. BO all sts. Weave in ends.

FINISHINGFold one leaf up tightly and lace tie through eyelets. Pull collar over your head and tie ends of leaf tie together. Emily Bixler lives and knits in Portland, Oregon.

Project Photos: Ken Frantz

Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3 Figure 4


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front, back, and front again of same st, turn, k5, turn, k5, turn, k5, turn, k5, sl 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th sts over fi rst st, sl rem st back to left needle and knit it through the back loop (k1tbl).

NOTES

• Scarf is worked sideways from long side to long side. Both ends of scarf are worked with short-rows to make a wide bell shape. After scarf is completed, stitches are picked up along both short ends and bobbles are worked as a deco-rative accent.

ASCOTCO 120 sts. Row 1: (RS) Knit.Row 2: (WS) Knit.Work short-rows (see Glossary) on the right end as foll:Row 3: (RS) K18, wrap next st, turn.Row 4: (WS) K18. Row 5: K14, wrap next st, turn.Row 6: K14. Row 7: K10, wrap next st, turn.Row 8: K10. Row 9: K6, wrap next st, turn.Row 10: K6. Row 11: Knit all sts, working wraps tog with wrapped sts as you come to them.Rows 12–13: Knit.Shape left end:Row 14: (WS) K18, wrap next st, turn.Row 15: (RS) K18. Row 16: K14, wrap next st, turn.Row 17: K14. Row 18: K10, wrap next st, turn.Row 19: K10. Row 20: K6, wrap next st, turn.Row 21: K6. Row 22: Knit all sts, working wraps tog with wrapped sts as you come to them.

POM-POM SCARF

K r i s t i n N i c h o l a s

Skill Level Beginner

Finished Size 5" wide at center, 10¼" wide at ends, and 41½" long.Yarn Classic Elite La Gran (76.5% mohair, 17.5% wool, 6% nylon; 90 yd [82 m]/42 g; Worsted #4 Medium): #6525 sunfl ower (yellow), #61555 tangerine (orange), #6572 underappreciated green, and #6546 azure (turquoise), 1 skein each. Needles Size 10½ (6.5 mm). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge. Notions Tapestry needle; pom-pom maker to make 1¾" pom-pom. Gauge 12 sts and 17 rows = 4" in garter st.

NOTES

• Carry the unused yarn up the selvedge edge, being careful not to pull so tight as to aff ect the length.

SCARFFirst half: With orange, CO 15 sts (counts as 1 row of stripe patt). Knit 1 row. Join green and knit 2 rows. *Knit 2 rows orange, knit 2 rows green; rep from * until a total of 25 stripes (13 orange, 12 green) have been worked—piece should measure about 12½" from CO. Inc row 1: Cont in patt, *k3, M1 (see Glos-sary); rep from * 3 more times, k3—19 sts. Knit 7 rows in patt (4 stripes). Inc row 2: *K4, M1; rep from * 3 more times, k3—23 sts. Knit 7 rows in patt. Inc row 3: *K5, M1; rep from * 3 more times, end k3—27 sts. Knit 7 rows in patt. Inc row 4: *K6, M1; rep from * 3 more times, k3—31 sts. Knit 14 rows in patt—piece measures about 20¾" from CO. BO

all sts. Second half: With yellow, CO 15 sts. Work as fi rst half, substituting yellow for orange and substituting turquoise for green.

FINISHINGWith yarn threaded on a tapestry needle and RS facing, sew the CO edges of the two pieces tog. Weave in loose ends. Pom-poms: Using a 1¾" pom-pom maker (see page 48), make two pom-poms of each color. With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, sew the orange and green pom-poms alternately to the CO edge of turquoise and yellow half. Sew the turquoise and yellow pom-poms to the orange and green half.

Kristin Nicholas is a knitwear and stitchery

author and designer who lives in the wilds of

western Massachusetts. Visit her website at

www.kristinnicholas.com.


HUCKLEBERRY ASCOTK a t C o y l e

Skill Level Easy

Finished Size 5" wide at center and 11½" wide at each end; 30½" long.Yarn Blue Sky Alpacas Mélange (100% baby alpaca; 110 yd [100 m]/50 g; Sportweight #2 Fine): #805 huckleberry, 2 skeins.Needles Size 6 (4 mm): 24" circular (cir). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Tapestry needle.Gauge 16 sts and 40 rows = 4" in garter st.

Stitch Guide Make Bobble (MB): Knit into front, back,


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Knitted Gifts unusual and inspired projects include garments, accessories for the entire family, and even gifts for the four-legged and the home. They range from beautiful hats, bags, socks, scarves, mittens, and gloves to unique gifts such as a felted oven mitt, napkin rings, baby blocks, a hobby horse, a catnip mouse, a car-seat-friendly baby bunting, fl oral ballet slippers, and much, much more. From classic to contemporary projects that are innovative in style, these projects are designed by a variety of top knitwear designers, including Nancy Bush, Mags Kandis, Pam Allen, Véronik Avery, Chrissy Gardiner, Marta McCall, Kathy Merrick, Kristin Nicholas, Ann Budd, and more.

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times, [k2tog] 3 times; rep from * to last st, k1.Row 4: Knit.Rep Rows 1–4 until piece measures about 59" from beg. BO all sts.

FINISHINGWeave in loose ends. Block lightly, if desired.

Jo Sharp is a knitwear and yarn designer from Australia.



MIDWEST MOONLIGHT

I v y B i g e l o w

Skill Level Easy

Finished Size 10" wide and 60" long, after blocking.Yarn Green Mountain Spinnery Cotton Comfort (80% wool, 20% organic cotton; 180 yd [165 m]/2 oz; Sportweight #2 Fine): bluet, 3 skeins.Needles Size 6 (4 mm). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

Rows 23–24: Knit.Rep Rows 3–24 seven more times. BO all sts.

FINISHING Edges: With RS of left short end facing, pick up and knit 115 sts along the short, fl ared edge. Next row: (WS) Knit. Next row: (RS) K1, *MB (see Stitch Guide), k6; rep from * to last 2 sts, MB, k1—17 bobbles total. BO all sts. Rep for opposite short edge. Weave in all loose ends. Block.

Kat Coyle is the author of Boho Baby Knits: Groovy Patterns for Cool Tots (Potter Craft, 2007), a collection of knitting patterns for little ones. You can see more of her work at www.katcoyle.com.

Project Photos: Joe Hancock

MISTY GARDEN J o S h a r p

Skill Level Easy

Finished Size 7" wide and 59" long, after blocking.Yarn GGH Soft Kid (70% kid mohair, 25% nylon, 5% wool; 150 yd [137 m]/25 g; Aran #4 Medium): #87, 2 balls. Yarn distributed by Muench Yarns.Needles Size 8 (5 mm). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Tapestry needle.Gauge 21 sts and 20 rows = 4" in pattern st.

SCARFCO 38 sts. Work in patt as foll:Row 1: (RS) Knit.Row 2: Purl.Row 3: K1, *[k2tog] 3 times, [yo, k1] 6

Notions Tapestry needle.Gauge 21 sts and 32 rows = 4" in garter st.

SCARFCO 49 sts. Knit 3 rows. Cont as foll:Rows 1, 3, 5, and 7: (RS) *[K2tog, yo] four times, k8; rep from * two more times, end k1.Rows 2, 4, 6, and 8: *K9, p7; rep from * to last st, k1.Rows 9, 11, 13, and 15: K1, *k8, [yo, ssk] four times; rep from *.Rows 10, 12, 14, and 16: K1, *p7, k9; rep from *.Rep Rows 1–16 a total of 25 times (400 patt rows). Knit 3 rows. BO all sts.


Ivy Bigelow is a former editorial assistant for Interweave Knits.




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poms to points at the other end.

Debbie Bliss lives in London where she designs knitwear, writes books, and markets her own line of handknitting yarn. Visit her at www.debbieblissonline.com.



PENOBSCOT SILK SCARFC y r e n e S l e g o n a

Skill Level Easy

Finished Size 5¾" wide and 41" long. Yarn Fiesta Yarns La Luz (100% silk; 210 yd [192 m]/2 oz; Worsted #4 medium): #3320 arctic ice, 1 skein.Needles Size 6 (4 mm). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Tapestry needle; stitch markers (m).Gauge 22 sts and 29 rows = 4" in St st.

Stitch GuideLittle Arrowhead Lace: (multiple of 6 sts +1)Row 1: (RS) K1, *yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1; rep from * to end.Rows 2 and 4: (WS) Purl.Row 3: K2, *yo, sl 2 kwise as if to k2tog, k1, p2sso, yo, k3; rep from * to last 5 sts, yo, sl 2 kwise as if to k2tog, k1, p2sso, yo, k2. Rep Rows 1–4 for pattern.

SCARFLoosely CO 33 sts. Working fi rst and last st of every row in garter st (knit every row) for edge sts, work 7 rows even in St st, beg and

ZIGZAG STRIPESD e b b i e B l i s s

Skill Level Easy

Finished Size Adult scarf measures 6" wide and 72" long; child’s scarf measures 4½" wide and 38" long, not including pom-poms.Yarn Filatura Di Crosa Zara (100% Merino, 136 yd [124 m]/50 g; Worsted #4 Medium). For adult’s scarf: #1389 navy, #1472 bright light blue, #1503 olive green, #1790 mustard, #1784 deep purple, #1780 bottle green, 1 ball each. For child’s scarf: #1780 bottle green, 2 balls; #1389 navy, #1472 bright light blue, #1503 olive green, #1790 mustard, #1784 deep purple, 1 ball each. Yarn distributed by Tahki Stacy Charles.Needles Size 7 (4.5 mm). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Tapestry needle; cardboard or pom-pom maker for child’s version.

Gauge 34 sts and 26 rows = 4" in chevron patt.

Stitch GuideChevron Pattern:Row 1: (RS) K1, ssk, *k9, sl 2 sts individually pwise, k1, p2sso; rep from * to last 12 sts, k9, k2tog, k1.Row 2: K1, *p1, k4, (k1, yo, k1) all in next st, k4; rep from * to last 2 sts, p1, k1.Rep Rows 1 and 2 for pattern.

ADULT SCARFWith deep purple, CO 51 sts. Knit 1 row. Beg with Row 1, work chevron patt, changing colors according to the foll stripe sequence: 6 rows navy, 6 rows bright light blue, 6 rows ol-ive green, 2 rows mustard, 6 rows bottle green, 6 rows deep purple—32 rows total. Rep this 32-row stripe sequence until scarf measures about 72" from beg, ending with 6 rows of bottle green. Change to deep purple and work Row 1 of chevron patt. With deep purple, BO all sts kwise.


CHILD’S SCARFWith bottle green, CO 39 sts. Knit 1 row. Beg with Row 1, work chevron patt, changing colors according to the foll stripe sequence: *2 rows navy, 2 rows bright light blue, 2 rows olive green, 2 rows mustard,* 2 rows bottle green, 2 rows deep purple; rep from * to * once more. Change to bottle green and work in chevron patt without stripes until piece measures about 34½", ending with Row 2 of patt. Cont in chevron patt, changing colors according to the foll stripe sequence: **2 rows mustard, 2 rows olive green, 2 rows bright light blue, 2 rows navy,** 2 rows deep purple, 2 rows bottle green; rep from ** to ** once more. Change to deep purple and work Row 1 of chevron patt. With deep purple, BO all sts kwise.

FINISHINGWeave in loose ends. Block lightly, if desired. Make seven pom-poms (see page 48), two each in olive green, mustard, and navy, and one in bright light blue. Attach three pom-poms to the points at one end of scarf, and four pom-

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ending with a RS row. Next row: (WS) K1 (edge st), p3, place marker (pm), purl to last 4 sts, pm, p3, k1 (edge st)—8 St st rows completed. Next row: (RS) K4, slip marker (sl m), work Row 1 of Little Ar-rowhead Lace patt (see Stitch Guide) over center 25 sts, sl m, k4. Cont in established patts, working edge sts in garter st, center 25 sts in Little Arrowhead Lace, and rem sts outside lace patt in St st, until 7 reps of lace patt have been completed—28 rows total in lace patt. Maintaining edge sts in garter st, work 8 rows even in St st, ending with a WS row. Rep the last 36 rows (28 lace rows followed by 8 St st rows) 7 more times—296 rows total from CO edge; eight 28-row lace panels; nine 8-row St st panels. BO all sts loosely.

FINISHINGWith yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, weave in loose ends. Pin scarf to measure-ments and mist lightly with water; allow to dry completely.

Cyrene Slegona is a former editorial advisor for Interweave Knits.

Project Photos: Chris Hartlove

FRILL COLLARE m i l y B i x l e r

Skill Level Easy

Finished Size 21¼" circumference and 4¼" high. Yarn Filatura di Crosa Baby Kid Extra (80% kid mohair, 20% nylon; 268 yd [245 m]/25 g; Fingering #1 Super Fine): #301 white, A, 1 ball; Filatura di Crosa

Aiko (80% cashmere, 20% polyamide; 63 yd [57 m]/25 g; Worsted #4 Medium): #30 lavender, B, 1 ball. Yarns distributed by Tahki Stacy Charles.Needles Size 8 (5 mm): 16" circular needle, size 6 (4 mm) straight needles. Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Tapestry needle, stitch marker (m).Gauge 15 sts and 25 rnds = 4" in St st with B on larger needle.

NOTES

• Collar is worked in the round on a circular needle, with slits worked into the collar for the leaf tie. Th e slits are made by working back and forth over groups of stitches—by working these groups separately for 5 rows, the sections are not attached to each other, and this creates open slits.

COLLARWith A and circular needle, CO 160 sts. Place marker (pm) at end of row, then join for work-ing in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts. Rnd 1: Knit. Rnd 2: Purl. Rnd 3: With B, *k2tog, p2tog; rep from * to end of rnd—80 sts rem. Rnd 4: *K1, p1; rep from * to end of rnd. Rnd 5: Rep Row 4. Rnds 6–11: Knit. Rnd 12: *K8, turn work around, p8, turn work around, k8, turn work around, p8, turn work around, k8, break yarn, rejoin yarn to next st on left needle; rep from * 9 more times—you should have 10 slits across collar. Rnds 13–18: Knit. Rnds 19 and 20: Rep Row 4. Rnd 21: With A, *k1, M1, p1, M1; rep from * to end of rnd—160 sts. Rnd 22: Purl. Rnd 23: Knit. BO all sts pwise. Weave in ends.

LEAF TIEWith A and straight needles, CO 2 sts. Row 1: (RS) Knit. Row 2: (WS) [K1f&b] 2 times—4 sts. Row 3: Knit. Row 4: K1, [k1f&b] 2 times, k1—6 sts. Row 5: Knit.

Row 6: K1, k1f&b, knit to last 2 sts, k1f&b, k1. Rep Rows 5 and 6 until you have 20 sts; then rep Row 5 again.

TIERow 1: (WS) K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Row 2: (RS) Knit. Rep Rows 1 and 2 until you have 10 sts left.Next row: (WS) Knit. Next row: (RS) Knit. Rep last 2 rows until tie measures 18" from end of leaf; stop working after fi nishing a RS row.

SECOND LEAFRow 1: (WS) K1, k1f&b, knit to last 2 sts, k1f&b, k1. Row 2: (RS) Knit. Rep Rows 1 and 2 until you have 20 sts; stop working after fi nishing a RS row. Next row: (WS) K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Next row: (RS) Knit. Rep last 2 rows until you have 2 sts left. BO all sts. Weave in ends.

FINISHINGFold up 1 leaf and lace tie through vertical slits in collar. Pull collar over your head and tie ends tog.

Emily Bixler lives and knits in Portland, Oregon.



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the

Spin Infi nite Yarns with One Amazing ToolAbby Franquemont

Spindle spinning techniques from the basics, such as getting started on the spindle, to more specialized techniques, such as using the spindle to make specifi c kinds of yarn faster than imagined, all with step-by-step photography and detailed illustrations.

Various heartwarming and historical fi ber stories from around the world, including spinner profi les from those involved in the craft.

How to create fi ve simple projects, perfect to practice creating a variety of yarns and patterns.

■

■

■

Portable and productive, the hand spindle has been responsible for creating the world’s yarn for millennia. In Respect the Spindle, veteran spinner and spindle afi cionado Abby Franquemont teaches spinners old and new how to create incredible yarn with this amazing, yet simple tool.

The perfect how-to book for any spinner with a growing collection of spindles or even just a dowel, with Respect the Spindle you’ll learn:

And more! $22.95ISBN: 978-1-59668-155-2Available at your local yarn shop November 2009

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But most knitters quickly realize that pattern language is actually quite simple; rather than an unbreakable code, it is truly a useful shorthand. Curi ously, however, many knitters never make the jump to following charted pat-terns, failing to understand how logical and, yes, easy to follow, they really are.

Charts have several advantages over row-by-row knitting instructions written out in words: They let you see at a glance what’s to be done and what the pattern will look like knitted; they help you recognize how the stitches relate to one another; and they take up less space than writ-ten instructions. These days, more and more patterns are being charted instead of written out row by row, and that means it is more im-portant than ever to learn how to read them. Once you add this skill to your repertoire, your choices as a knitter expand nicely.

The Anatomy of a ChartCharts are a visual representation of a knit-

ted fabric viewed from the right side. Charts are plotted on graph paper so that one square repre-sents one stitch and one horizontal row repre-sents one row of knitting. Th e symbols or colors in the squares indicate how to work each stitch. For colorwork charts, the colors represent yarn colors; for texture work, the symbols represent stitch manipulations. Unless otherwise speci-fi ed, charts are read from the bottom to the top, right to left for right-side rows, and left to right for wrong-side rows. When knitting in the round (where the right side of the knitting is always facing out), all rows are read from right to left.

Most charts, including the ones in Inter-weave Knits, are plotted on a square grid. Be-cause knitted stitches tend to be wider than they are tall, motifs worked from such charts

will appear squatter in the actual knitting than they appear on the grid. To avoid this discrep-ancy when designing your own project, you can use proportional knitter’s graph paper (available at knitting stores).

SYMBOLSTh ough not all publications use exactly the

same symbols (for example, some use a horizon-tal dash to denote a purl stitch, others use a dot), for the most part, the symbols represent what the stitches look like when viewed from the right side of the knitting. Symbols that slant to the left represent left-slanting stitches. Symbols that slant to the right represent right-slanting stitch-es. Notice how the symbols in the charts at right mimic the stitches in the knitted fabrics.

Because charts are presented as viewed from the right side only, most symbols represent two diff erent maneuvers—one for right-side rows and another for wrong-side rows. For example, for stockinette stitch, you knit the stitches on right-side rows and purl them on wrong-side rows. However, charted stockinette stitch shows only the right, or knit, side. A list of the most common symbols and their right- and wrong-side defi nitions is presented in the box below the charts.

NO STITCHMany stitch patterns, especially lace, involve

increases or decreases that cause the stitch count to rise or fall, thereby requiring the num-ber of boxes in a chart to vary from one row to the next. For some patterns, these variations are simply represented by uneven chart edges. For other patterns, adding or subtracting boxes at the edge of a chart may disrupt the vertical stitch alignment. In these cases, a special sym-

bol for “no stitch” is used within the center of the chart. These symbols accommodate “missing” stitches while they maintain the verti-cal integrity of the pattern. In Interweave Knits, missing stitches are represented by gray shaded boxes. When you come to a shaded box, simply skip over it and continue to the end of the row as if it doesn’t exist.

ROW NUMBERS Rows are numbered along the side of most

charts, especially long or complicated ones. Row numbers appearing along the right edge denote right-side rows to be read from right to left. Row numbers appearing along the left edge denote wrong-side rows to be read from left to right. For example, if the number 1 is on the right edge of the chart, that and all subsequent odd-numbered rows are right-side rows; all even-numbered rows are worked from the wrong side (from left to right). With few exceptions, charts in Inter weave Knits designate Row 1 as a right-side row. For some patterns, this necessitates a “set-up row” be worked prior to the fi rst row of the chart to get the stitches in the necessary se-quence of knits and purls.

PATTERN REPEATS All charts show at least one pattern repeat.

If the repeat is complex, more than one repeat is charted to help you see how the individual motifs look adjacent to each other.

In row-by-row instructions, pattern repeats are fl anked by asterisks or square brackets. On charts, these repeats are outlined in heavy or colored boxes, or they’re annotated at the lower or upper edge of the chart.

Some patterns that are worked back and forth in rows require extra stitches to balance a charted pattern. In row-by-row instructions, such patterns are reported as repeating over a multiple of a number of stitches plus extra stitches (e.g., balanced 2×2 ribbing worked back and forth is a multiple of 4 stitches plus 2). On


Many beginning knitters pale at the sight of a knitting pattern, temporarily paralyzed by the seemingly complicated abbreviations and symbols (k2tog, ssk, brackets, parentheses, asterisks, . . .).

A Guide to Reading Charts A N N B U D D

symbolsMaking Sense of

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right side: knit wrong side: purl

right side: purl wrong side: knit

right side: k2tog wrong side: p2tog

Common Chart Symbols and Defi nitionsright side: k3tog wrong side: p3tog

right side: ssk wrong side: ssp

right side: sl 2 sts individu-ally, k1, p2sso; wrong side: p2tog and place st on left needle, pass next st over this st, return st to right needle

M

b

make 1

yarn over

work through back loop of stitch

no stitch

Right cross: place specifi ed number of sts onto cable needle and hold in back, knit specifi ed number of sts, knit specifi ed number of sts from cable needle

Left cross: place specifi ed number of sts onto cable needle and hold in front, knit specifi ed number of sts, knit specifi ed number of sts from cable needle


charts, these balancing stitches appear at the right and left margins of the chart, with the re-peat clearly marked in between. On right-side rows, work from right to left, working the stitches on the right edge once, then the repeat as many times as necessary, and end by working the stitches on the left edge once. On wrong-side rows, work from left to right, working the stitches on the left edge once, the repeat box as many times as necessary, and end by working the stitches on the right edge once.

Charts for multisized garments will most likely have diff erent numbers of edge stitches for the different sizes. Read the instructions and chart carefully and be sure to begin and end as specifi ed for the size you are making.

HELPFUL HINTS• If a chart is so small or complicated that it

causes your eyes to strain, copy it onto larger graph paper or make a photocopy enlarge-ment. If the chart involves colorwork and you don’t have access to a color photocopier, use colored pencils or markers to color in the ap-propriate boxes.

• Keep your place while working a chart by holding a straightedge or row fi nder on the chart and using a row counter on your knit-ting needle. You can place the straightedge either above or below the row you’re working on; placing it on the row above will let you see how the stitches relate to the previous row (the one you just knitted). Once you’ve

worked a couple of repeats from the chart, you may be able to look at your knitting rather than the chart to figure out what comes next.

• If you plan to design a sweater or other piece around a charted design, be sure to center the design over the center stitch of the piece. Otherwise, you will end up with a partial re-peat at one edge that isn’t mirrored at the other.

Ann Budd is the former managing editor of Interweave Knits. She knits and writes in Boulder, Colorado.

The chart symbols for cables indicate the direction of the cable twists.

pattern repeat

11

9

7

5

3

1

Comparing Charts and Swatches

Notice how the stitches mimic the chart symbols in this simple lace pattern.

pattern repeat

Think of a knitting chart as a shorthand or cartoon representation of the knitted fabric. Each square represents one stitch. The shapes and slants of the symbols imitate the shapes and slants of the knitted stitches.

pattern repeat

11

9

7

5

3

1

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F A N C Y

SCARVESLuxuriate in the making of these scarves. Their ingenuity will challenge you, but you’ll learn more knitting techniques with

each stitch.

FORBES FOREST by Kathy ZimmermanYARN Rowan Extra Fine Merino DK, distributed by Westminster FibersPage 32

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NEVER WIMPY WIMPLEby Priscilla Gibson-RobertsYARN Knit Picks ShadowPage 34

FROTHY SCARFby Ann BuddYARN Lorna’s Laces Helen’s LacePage 33


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SHIBORI-ESQUE NECK WRAPby Mags KandisYARN Classic Elite Classic One FiftyPage 35


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VINTAGE VELVETby Lisa DanielsYARN Muench Yarns Touch MePage 36

LARKSPUR SCARFby Kara GottYARN Nashua Handknits Julia, distributed by Westminster FibersPage 38

RUSSIAN LACE SCARFby Dixie Falls and Jane FournierYARN JaggerSpun Zephyr Wool-SilkPage 36


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FORBES FOREST K a t h y Z i m m e r m a n


Finished Size 8¾" wide and 61" long, after blocking.Yarn Rowan Extra Fine Merino DK (100% merino; 137 yd [125 m]/50 g; DK #3 Light): #845 forest, 5 balls. Yarn distrib-uted by Westminster Fibers.Needles Size 6 (4 mm). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Markers (m); cable needle (cn); tapestry needle.Gauge In zigzag cable panel, 21 sts = 2¾" wide and 27 rows = 4" high, after blocking; in front cable panel, 19 sts = 2¼" wide and 27 rows = 4" high, after blocking.

Stitch GuidePopcorn: ([K1f&b] 2 times, k1) in same st to make 5 sts, turn; p5; turn; ssk, k1, k2tog; slip second and third sts on right needle over the fi rst st to dec back to 1 st.

1/1RPC: slip 1 st onto cn and, hold in back, k1, p1 from cn

1/1LPC: slip 1 st onto cn and, hold in front, p1, k1 from cn

2/1RPC: slip 1 st onto cn and, hold in back, k2, p1 from cn

2/1LPC: slip 2 sts onto cn and, hold in front, p1, k2 from cn

2/1RC: slip 1 st onto cn and, hold in back, k2, k1 from cn

2/1LC: slip 2 st onto cn and, hold in front, k1, k2 from cn

19 17 15 13 11 9 7 5 3 1

Left

Zig

zag

Cab

le

set-

up ro

w

Rig

ht Z

igza

g C

able

Fro

nt C

able

k on RS; p on WS

p on RS; k on WS

popcorn

bobble

pattern repeat

marker

Forbes Forest


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Bobble: (K1, p1, k1) into same st to make 3 sts; turn; p3; turn; sl 2 sts as if to k2tog, k1, pass sl sts over to dec back to 1 st.

SCARFCO 67 sts. Set-up row: (WS) K3 (edge sts, work in garter st throughout), place marker (pm), work center 61 sts according to set-up row from Forbes Forest chart, pm, k3 (edge sts, work in garter st throughout). Maintain-ing 3-st garter edges, rep Rows 1–20 of zigzag cables, and rep Rows 1–12 of front cable (do not rep set-up row) until 420 patt rows have been completed (21 reps of zigzag cables; 35 reps of front cable). BO all sts in patt.

FINISHINGWeave in loose ends. Block lightly.

Kathy Zimmerman is the owner of Kathy’s Kreations in Ligonier, Pennsylvania. Her favorite stitch elements are cables and textures, and she enjoys combining the two in her designs.


Projects Photos: Carol Kaplan

FROTHY SCARFA n n B u d d


Finished Size About 3½" wide and 52½" long, after blocking.Yarn Lorna’s Laces Helen’s Lace (50% silk, 50% wool; 1250 yd [1143 m]/4 oz; Lace-weight): #50ns poppy, 1 skein.Needles Size 3 (3.25 mm): two sets of 24" circulars (cir). Notions Markers (m; optional); tapestry needle.Gauge 14 sts and 22 rows = 2" in St st before blocking. Exact gauge is not critical but will aff ect overall scarf length.

Stitch GuideLittle Arrowhead Lace: (multiple of 6 sts + 1)Rows 1 and 3: (WS) Purl.Row 2: (RS) K1, *yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1; rep from *.Row 4: K2, *yo, sl 2 kwise, k1, pass 2 slipped sts over, yo, k3; rep from *, ending last rep k2 instead of k3.Rep Rows 1–4 for pattern.

NOTES

• Adjust the length by adding or subtracting stitches in groups of 6; for every 6 stitches added or subtracted, the length will increase or decrease by about 1".

• You may fi nd it helpful to place markers after every 24 stitches (4 pattern repeats) to make it easier to both count stitches and troubleshoot any problems.

SCARFTier 1: Loosely CO 337 sts. Purl 1 row, plac-ing markers (pm) after every 24 sts if desired (see Notes; there will be one 1 st left over);

this counts as Row 1 of little arrowhead lace patt. Work through Row 4 of patt, then rep Rows 1–4 two more times—12 lace rows total. Work even in St st for 6 rows, ending with a RS row. Break yarn and set aside. Tier 2: With the other cir needle, loosely CO 337 sts. Work Rows 1–4 of lace patt 3 times—12 lace rows total. Break yarn. Joining row: (RS) Place Tier 2 on top of Tier 1 so that the needles are parallel, the right sides of both pieces are facing you, and the needle with the Tier 2 is closer to you. Rejoin yarn to beg of work with RS facing. With the spare tip of one needle, knit the two tiers tog across the row as foll: *Insert working needle tip into fi rst st on both cir needles, k2tog (1 st from each needle); rep from * to end—337 sts; 2 tiers on same needle. Tier 2 will slightly overlap Tier 1, shingle-fashion, as shown in photograph. Work even in St st for 6 more rows, ending with a RS row. Break yarn and set aside. Tiers 3 and 4: Work as for Tier 2, placing each tier on top of the previous one for the joining row. Tier 5: Work as for Tier 2 until the joining row has been completed; do not work any rows of St st after the joining row—337 sts; 5 tiers on same needle. With WS fac-ing, BO all sts as foll: *BO 3 sts—1 st on right needle tip. Turn work around and use the knitted method to CO 2 more sts onto needle holding the single st, turn work again, and pass the second and third sts on right needle over the fi rst st; rep from * to end of row. Fasten off rem st.

FINISHINGWeave in loose ends. Block to measurements.

Ann Budd is the author of The Knitter's Handy Book series and co-author of many of the Style series books from Interweave. Her latest book is Knitted Gifts: Irresistible Projects to Make and Give (Interweave, 2009).



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NEVER WIMPY WIMPLE

P r i s c i l l a G i b s o n - R o b e r t s


Finished Size About 20" circumference at upper edge and 13½" total length mea-sured at deepest point of lower edging.Yarn Knit Picks Shadow (100% merino wool; 440 yd [402 m]/50 g; Laceweight): #23657 vineyard heather, 2 skeins.Needles Size 2 (2.75 mm): 16" circular. Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Smooth waste yarn for invis-ible cast-on; stitch marker (m); tapestry needle.Gauge 36 stitches and 44 rounds = 4" in st st worked in the round.

WIMPLELower edging is worked back and forth in rows. With waste yarn and using the provisional method (see Glossary), CO 15 sts. Row 1: (RS) K9, [yo, k2tog] 2 times, yo, k2—16 sts.Row 2: (WS) Use the backward-loop method (see Glossary) to CO 2 sts, BO the 2 sts just CO to form a short “fringe,” knit to end. Row 3: K10, [yo, k2tog] 2 times, yo,

k2—17 sts.Row 4: CO 3 sts as before, BO these 3 sts, knit to end.Row 5: K11, [yo, k2tog] 2 times, yo, k2—18 sts.Row 6: CO 4 sts as before, BO these 4 sts, knit to end.Row 7: K12, [yo, k2tog] 2 times, yo, k2—19 sts.Row 8: CO 5 sts as before, BO these 5 sts, knit to end.Row 9: K13, [yo, k2tog] 2 times, yo, k2—20 sts.Row 10: CO 6 sts as before, BO these 6 sts, knit to end.Row 11: K11, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, k2tog, k1—19 sts rem.Row 12: Rep Row 8.Row 13: K10, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, k2tog, k1—18 sts rem.Row 14: Rep Row 6.Row 15: K9, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, k2tog, k1—17 sts rem.Row 16: Rep Row 4.Row 17: K8, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, k2tog, k1—16 sts rem.Row 18: Rep Row 2.Row 19: K7, [k2tog, yo] 3 times, k2tog, k1—15 sts rem.Row 20: K15.Rep these 20 rows 23 more times—24 patt reps total; 480 rows total; piece measures about 30" from CO. Carefully remove waste yarn from invisible CO and place 15 live sts on needle. Holding ends of edging with RS facing tog, use the three-needle method (see Glossary) to bind off the CO and BO ends tog

to form a ring.

CENTER SECTIONWith RS of edging facing, beg at seam, and working along the straight edge of the ring, pick up and knit 1 st from the “valley” between each garter ridge—240 sts. Place marker (pm), and join for working in the rnd.Rnd 1: Purl.Rnd 2: *K14, k2tog; rep from *—225 sts rem.Rnds 3 and 5: Purl.Rnd 4: *K13, k2tog; rep from *—210 sts rem.Rnd 6: *K12, k2tog; rep from *—195 sts rem.Rnds 7–18: Knit.Rnd 19: *K11, k2tog; rep from *—180 sts rem.Cont even in St st (knit every rnd) until St st section measures 9¼" above last garter ridge (Rnd 5), or until piece measures about 12¼" from deepest point of lower edging.

TOP EDGINGRnd 1: Purl.Rnd 2: Knit.Rnds 3–6: Rep Rnds 1 and 2 two more times.Rnds 7 and 8: Knit.Rnds 9 and 11: *K7, k2tog, yo, k3; rep from *.Rnds 10 and 12: *K6, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, k1; rep from *.Rnds 13 and 14: Knit.Rnds 15–20: Rep Rnds 1–6.BO all sts loosely.

FINISHINGWeave in loose ends. Lightly steam-block to open up the lower and top edgings; the wider bottom end of the wimple will fl are out at the base.

Priscilla Gibson-Roberts is passionate about traditional knitting and spinning techniques and has written a number of books on the topic, including Knitting in the Old Way, Ethnic Socks & Stockings, and Simple Socks: Plain and Fancy.

This project was excerpted from Lace Style (Interweave, 2007).



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SHIBORI-ESQUE NECK WRAP

M a g s K a n d i s

Skill Level Easy

Finished Size About 5¼" wide and 38" long. Note: Your exact fi nished size may be diff er-ent because of individual variations in the felting process—that’s part of the allure.Yarn Classic Elite Classic One Fifty (100% merino; 150 yd [137 m]/50 g; DK #3 Light): #7232 orchid (purple; A) 2 balls; #7251 lilac (light purple; B) and #7281 sprout (green; C), 1 ball each.Needles Size 10 (6 mm). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Tapestry needle; markers (m); dress-maker’s water-soluble fabric marker (avail-able at fabric stores) in contrasting color(s) to A and B; scissors; size J/10 (6 mm) crochet hook; mesh lingerie bag for felting.Gauge 14 sts and 22 rows = 4" in reverse stockinette stitch (rev St st), before felting.

SCARFBefore beginning to knit, wind off about 3 yd of A and set aside to use later for embroidery. With A, CO 42 sts. Work even in rev St st (purl RS rows; knit WS rows) until both balls of A have been used up (about 200 rows). Change to B and work even in rev St st until only about 48" of B is left (about 100 rows)—piece measures about 54" from CO, but exact length is not critical. BO all sts.

FINISHINGWeave in loose ends.

CROCHET RINGS (MAKE 8)With C and crochet hook, ch 30 (see Glos-sary). Join with a slip st to form ring. Cut

yarn, leaving a 12" tail. Make 7 more crochet rings in the same manner. On RS of scarf, count up 80 rows from CO edge at the A end of the scarf and draw a line across the scarf with water-soluble fabric marker to mark embroidery area. Using tails, sew crocheted rings randomly to RS of scarf between CO edge and marker line as shown in photo-graph. With A threaded on a tapestry needle, sew a line of basting sts around the open cen-ter of each crochet ring as close as possible to inside edge of the ring. With RS still facing, draw up ends of basting thread tightly to form a “bubble” of fabric in the center of each ring. Tie ends of basting thread securely so bubbles will maintain their shape throughout the felting process.

FELTINGPlace scarf in lingerie bag. Add a small amount of mild detergent and run through normal washing-machine cycle set for a small load and hot water, stopping the washer pe-riodically to check felting progress. Note: It may take more than one cycle to achieve the desired amount of felting. When piece is suf-fi ciently felted and the individual stitches are no longer visible, remove scarf from washer, pull into shape, and allow to dry fl at.

SLITUsing water-soluble fabric marker, draw a line to indicate the position of a 3½" slit centered on the B end of the scarf, beg about 4½" down from BO edge. Carefully cut slit open along marked line. Th e felted fabric will not ravel and the edges of the slit will need no additional reinforcement.

Mags Kandis's love of travel, color, culture, texture, and discovery fuels her unique and identifi able knit designs.



BOOKS:

Felt Frenzy 26 Projects for All Forms of Felting Felt Forward Modern Designs in Knitted Felt Shibori Knitted Felt 20 Plus Designs to Knit, Bead, and FeltHow We Felt Designs and Techniques from Contemporary Felt ArtistsFelted Knits The Art of Shrinking Your KnittingHand Felted Jewelry and Beads 25 Artful Designs Simply Felt 20 Easy and Elegant Designs in Wool

MAGAZINES:

Interweave Felt 2007 Electronic Version Interweave Felt 2008 Electronic Version

VIDEO DOWNLOAD:

Fun with Machine NeedleFelting

All are available at interweavestore.com

FELTINGRESOURCES


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Rep Rows 1–22 until almost all the yarn has been used, ending with Row 9 or Row 20 (4 rows past the last cable crossing row), and leaving a tail at least 4 times the width of the scarf for binding off . BO all sts in patt.

FINISHINGWeave in loose ends. Felting: Place scarf in a lingerie bag, or other washing bag, then place in the washing machine with some old T-shirts or an old sheet. To felt a larger piece (bigger than the scarf shown here), place it directly in the washing machine with similar items without the washing bag. Th e goal is to have a large enough load that the machine will balance properly while avoiding clothes that could transfer color or lint to your fi nished item. Set the machine for a hot wash, add

VINTAGE VELVETL i s a D a n i e l s


Finished Size 5" wide and 68" long, after washing and felting.Yarn Muench Yarns Touch Me (72% rayon microfi ber, 28% wool; 61 yd [56 m]/50 g; Worsted #4 Medium): #3618 toast, 5 skeins.Needles Size 8 (5 mm). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Cable needle (cn); markers (m); tapestry needle.Gauge 26 sts and 22 rows = 4" in revers-ible cable patt before washing and felting; scarf measures about 5¼" wide and 68" long before fi nishing.

NOTE

• Th e cable crossings alternate between the two sides of the scarf.

SCARFCO 34 sts. Work in patt as foll:Row 1: K1, [p2, k2] 2 times, p2, place marker (pm), [k1, p1] 6 times, pm, [p2, k2] 2 times, p2, k1.Row 2: K1, p1, [k2, p2] 2 times, k1, slip marker (sl m), [k1, p1] 6 times, sl m, k1, [p2, k2] 2 times, p1, k1.Rows 3 and 4: Rep Rows 1 and 2.Row 5: K1, [p2, k2] 2 times, p2, sl 6 sts onto cn and hold in back, [k1, p1] 3 times, work 6 sts from cn as [k1, p1] 3 times, [p2, k2] 2 times, p2, k1.Row 6: Rep Row 2.Rows 7–14: Rep Rows 1 and 2 four times.Row 15: Rep Row 1.Row 16: K1, p1, [k2, p2] 2 times, k1, sl 6 sts onto cn and hold in back, [k1, p1] 3 times, work 6 sts from cn as [k1, p1] 3 times, k1, [p2, k2] 2 times, p1, k1.Rows 17–22: Rep Rows 1 and 2 three times.

a small amount of mild detergent, and run through a full cycle. Place scarf in the dryer and dry until it is still damp to the touch. Lay fl at and pat into shape to fi nish drying.

Lisa Daniels lives and knits in Lafayette, California.



RUSSIAN LACE SCARF

D i x i e F a l l s a n d J a n e F o u r n i e r

Skill Level Experienced

Finished Size 66" long and 12" wide. Make it longer or shorter by increasing or decreasing the number of snowfl ake motifs.Yarn JaggerSpun Zephyr Wool-Silk 2/18 (630 yd [576 m]/2 oz; DK #3 Light); light gray, 1 skein. Needles Size 2 (2.75 mm).Notions Stitch markers (m), one each of two diff erent colors; stitch holder; tapestry needle; rustproof pins.

NOTE

• Th e work starts by knitting the border at one end of the scarf. You then pick up the stitches along the edge of the border and knit the side borders and snowfl ake pattern that make up the body of the scarf at the same time. When the scarf is long enough, you’ll knit the border for the far end and graft it to the body of the scarf.

SCARFCO 10 sts loosely. Following the directions for the end border pattern, work 12 com-


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Row 11: Yo, k2tog, k2, (k2tog, yo) twice, k2tog, k1.Row 12: Knit.Rep rows 1 to 12.

RIGHT BORDER PATTERNRow 1: K2, yo, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, k2tog.

plete patterns, fi nishing with row 1. Bind off loosely but do not break the yarn. Don’t be alarmed if the edging does not look as lacy at this stage; it will look much lacier after you’ve washed and blocked it. You can gauge its fi nal appearance by stretching a small portion of the knitting between the fi ngers of both hands.Pick up and knit 1 st in each of the 73 loops formed along the straight edge of the begin-ning border (73 sts).Divide the border and snowfl ake sts as follows: K8, place marker, k15, k2tog, k23, k2tog, k15, place marker, k8 (71 sts).Row 1: Work row 1 of the right border pat-tern, slip marker, work row 1 of the snow-fl ake pattern, slip marker, work row 1 of the left border pattern.Row 2: Work row 2 of the left border pattern, slip marker, work row 2 of the snowfl ake pattern, slip marker, work row 2 of the right border pattern.Continue working the right border, snow-fl ake, and left border patterns across the rows, following the row repeat instructions for each pattern, until there are 12 snow-fl ake motifs in the center panel or the scarf is the length you prefer with a multiple of 3 snowfl ake motifs. End with row 1 of the snowfl ake pattern and row 13 of the right and left border patterns. Last row: K9, remove marker, k55, remove marker, k9 (73 sts). Leave the stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder and set the scarf aside.CO 10 sts loosely. Following the directions for the end border pattern, work 12 complete patterns, fi nishing with row 1. BO loosely. Pick up the loops along the straight edge of the end border and place them on a knitting needle. Using the wool or tapestry needle threaded with yarn, graft the border loops with the scarf stitches on the spare needle.

END BORDER PATTERN:Row 1: Yo, k2tog, kl, (k2tog, yo) twice, k2tog, kl.Row 2 and all even-numbered rows: Knit.Row 3: Yo, k2tog, k3, yo, k2tog, yo, k2.Row 5: Yo, k2tog, k4, yo, k2tog, yo, k2.Row 7: Yo, k2tog, k5, yo, k2tog, yo, k2.Row 9: Yo, k2tog, k3, (k2tog, yo) twice, k2tog, k1.

Row 2 and all even-numbered rows: Knit.Row 3: K2, yo, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, k2tog.Row 5: K2, yo, k2tog, yo, k4, yo, k2tog.Row 7: K2, yo, k2tog, yo, k5, yo, k2tog.Row 9: K1, (k2tog, yo) twice, k2tog, k3, yo, k2tog.

Photocopy the pattern onto single sheets of paper. Affi x them to a magnetic board with a line fi nder to help you keep your place. Leave your original pattern at

home and take a copy when you travel with your knitting.

•Use stitch markers to separate diff erent patterns or pattern repeats.

• Use diff erent colors for the fi rst and last stitch markers on the row. One of the

colors falling at the beginning of the row will indicate a right-side or pattern row; the other color at the beginning of the row will indicate a

wrong-side row.

•If you make an error and have to rip out some of the knitting, you’ll fi nd it

easier to pick up the stitches if you rip back to the fi rst knit row beyond the error and use a needle one size smaller than you’re knitting with. Put the smaller

needle aside as soon as you have worked the stitches from it.

LACE KNITTING HINTS


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warm water and mild detergent, rinsing it well. Do not scrub or wring the scarf while it is wet. Roll the wet scarf in a towel to absorb the excess water. Lay the damp scarf on an ironing board or on thick bath towels spread on the carpet. Stretch the scarf to its fi nal size and pin it in place through each point of the zigzag edge of the border. Leave the scarf pinned in place until it is completely dry, then remove the pins.

Dixie Falls knits and crochets in Turner, Oregon. Jane Fournier spins and knits in Helena, Montana.

Project Photos: Joe Coca

LARKSPUR SCARF

K a r a G o t t


Finished Size 5" wide and 41" long, after blocking. Yarn Nashua Handknits Julia (50% wool, 25% kid mohair, 25% alpaca; 93 yd [84 m]/50 g; Worsted #4 Medium): #4936 blue thyme, 3 skeins. Yarn distributed by West-minster Fibers. Needles Size 5 (3.75 mm): set of 2 double-pointed (dpn) and straight. Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge. Notions Stitch holder; cable needle (cn); tapestry needle. Gauge 5½ sts and 7 rows = 1" in St st.

SCARFBeginning I-cord loops: *With dpn, CO 3 sts. Work a 3" I-cord (see Glossary). Do not BO. Pick up and knit 1 st in the middle of the

Row 11: K1, (k2tog, yo) twice, k2tog, k2, yo, k2tog.Row 13: K1, (k2tog, yo) twice, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog.Row 14: Knit.Rep rows 3 to 14. LEFT BORDER PATTERNRow 1: Ssk, yo, k2, yo, k2tog, yo, k2.Row 2 and all even-numbered rows: Knit.Row 3: Ssk, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, yo, k2.Row 5: Ssk, yo, k4, yo, k2tog, yo, k2.Row 7: Ssk, yo, k5, yo, k2tog, yo, k2.Row 9: Ssk, yo, k3, (k2tog, yo) twice, k2tog, k1.Row 11: Ssk, yo, k2, (k2tog, yo) twice, k2tog, k1.Row 13: Ssk, yo, k1, (k2tog, yo) twice, k2tog, k1.Row 14: Knit.Rep rows 3 to 14.

SNOWFLAKE PATTERNRow 1: K2, (k2tog, yo twice, k2tog) 5 times, k11, (k2tog, yo twice, k2tog) 5 times, k2.Row 2 and all even-numbered rows: Knit, working k1, p1, into each yo twice wherever there is a yo twice in the prev row.Row 3: K25, ssk, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, k25.Row 5: (K2tog, yo twice, k2tog) 5 times, k4, ssk, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, k4, (k2tog, yo twice, k2tog) 5 times.Row 7: K26, yo, sl1, k2tog, psso, yo, k26.Row 9: K2, (k2tog, yo twice, k2tog) 4 times, k5, yo, k2tog, k5, ssk, yo, k5, (k2tog, yo twice, k2tog) 4 times, k2.Row 11: K24, yo, k2tog, k3, ssk, yo, k24.Row 13: (K2tog, yo twice, k2tog) 4 times, k5, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, k2tog, k1, ssk, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k5, (k2tog, yo twice, k2tog) 4 times.Row 15: K22, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, sl1, k2tog, psso, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k22.Row 17: K2, (k2tog, yo twice, k2tog) 3 times, k5, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, k2tog, k5, ssk, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k5, (k2tog, yo twice, k2tog) 3 times, k2.Row 19: K20, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, k2tog, k3, ssk, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k20.Row 21: (K2tog, yo twice, k2tog) 3

times, k5, (yo, k2tog, k2) twice, yo, k2tog, k1, (ssk, yo, k2) twice, ssk, yo, k5, (k2tog, yo twice, k2tog) 3 times.Row 23: K18, (yo, k2tog, k2) twice, yo, sl1, k2tog, psso, (yo, k2, ssk) twice, yo, k18.Row 25: K2, (k2tog, yo twice, k2tog) twice, k9, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, k2tog, k5, ssk, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k9, (k2tog, yo twice, k2tog) twice, k2.Row 27: K13, ssk, yo, k1, (yo, k2tog, k2) twice, yo, k2tog, k3, (ssk, yo, k2) twice, ssk, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, k13.Row 29: (K2tog, yo twice, k2tog) twice, k4, ssk, yo, k3, (yo, k2tog, k2) twice, yo, k2tog, k1, (ssk, yo, k2) twice, ssk, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, k4, (k2tog, yo twice, k2tog) twice.Row 31: K14, yo, sl1, k2tog, psso, (yo, k2, ssk) twice, yo, k5, (yo, k2tog, k2) twice, yo, sl1, k2tog, psso, yo, k14.Row 33: K2, (k2tog, yo twice, k2tog) twice, k8, ssk, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k7, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, k2tog, k8, (k2tog, yo twice, k2tog) twice, k2.Row 35: K17, (ssk, yo, k2) twice, ssk, yo, k1, (yo, k2tog, k2) twice, yo, k2tog, k17.Row 37: (K2tog, yo twice, k2tog) 3 times, k4, (ssk, yo, k2) twice, ssk, yo, k3, (yo, k2tog, k2) twice, yo, k2tog, k4, (k2tog, yo twice, k2tog) 3 times.Row 39: K19, ssk, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k5, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, k2tog, k19.Row 41: K2, (k2tog, yo twice, k2tog) 3 times, k4, ssk, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k7, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, k2tog, k4, (k2tog, yo twice, k2tog) 3 times, k2.Row 43: K21, ssk, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, k2tog, k21.Row 45: (K2tog, yo twice, k2tog) 4 times, k4, ssk, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, k2tog, k4, (k2tog, yo twice, k2tog) 4 times.Row 47: K23, ssk, yo, k5, yo, k2tog, k23.Row 49: K2, (k2tog, yo twice, k2tog) 4 times, k4, ssk, yo, k7, yo, k2tog, k4, (k2tog, yo twice, k2tog) 4 times, k2.Row 51: K25, ssk, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, k25.Row 53: (K2tog, yo twice, k2tog) 5 times, k4, ssk, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, k4, (k2tog, yo twice, k2tog) 5 times.Row 55: K26, yo, sll, k2tog, psso, yo, k26.Row 56: Knit.Rep rows 1 to 56.

FINISHING AND BLOCKINGWeave in loose ends. Wash the scarf in


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All special issues are available at your local yarn shop, on newsstands, or at InterweaveStore.com.

2009special issue magazinesInterweave Knits Holiday Gifts Interweave Knits Holiday Gifts is a special supersized seasonal issue presented by Interweave Knits. Gifts includes plenty of tips, tricks, and “knitspiration” craft ideas--broken into fun-to-read nuggets and many small, fun projects. The presentation is rich, organic, and book-like, making Knits Gifts a magazine that is easy to pick up and get into, even for the most casual of knitters. Up to 50 projects, accessible editorial stories, idea-packed knitting/lifestyle content, and a fun/festive tone that makes knitting desirable even in a down economy combine to make the supersized Knits Gifts a great value and a must-have for readers during the holiday season.

Knitscene For the spirited knitter, this special issue is about feasting on yarn and knitting in style with imaginative, contemporary knitwear, smart accessories, home décor, and the unexpected. Knitscene features doable projects in a hybrid of techniques: knitting, crocheting, felting, and beyond. Both trendy silhouettes and classic styles range from beginner to intermediate diffi culty. 2x/year$7.99July 2009, January 2010

Interweave Knits Accessories is a special issue with 60+ projects all in 148 pages! Presented by Interweave Knits, this issue has accessories galore to warm your extremities--hats, scarves and wraps, socks, mitts and gloves. These favorite projects are both seasonal and year-round, timeless in design, and wearable for young and old alike. And there’s more: From simple how-to get started techniques through quick fi nishing tips, this issue will be a handy reference for great accessories now and for many years to come.

Interweave Knits WeekendInterweave Knits Weekend puts a lifestyle-oriented, family-friendly spin on the Knits philosophy: knitting can and should be an integral part of The Good Life all year round. The issue includes 34 projects covering sweaters for the whole family, accessories for spring and summer, plus casual and unexpected home decor items. With a fashion-forward look and timeless in appeal, projects are casual and classic, intriguing and rewarding to knit, and are cleverly simple with strong trans-seasonal appeal to knitters across many demographics and with any budget.

new!

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in the rnd: knit every rndin rows: k on RS; p on WS

2/1 RC: sl 1 st onto cn and hold in back, k2, k1 from cn

2/1 LC: sl 2 sts onto cn and hold in front, k1, k2 from cn

pattern repeat

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Zigzag

At end of last row, knit 1 st from holder—4 sts on needle. With left-hand needle, pass second st from needle tip over the fi rst. Cont to BO in this manner until 1 st rem on needle. Knit next st from holder and slip second st on needle over fi rst. Knit next 2 sts from holder—3 sts on needle. Rep from * until there are 8 loops. Break yarn and draw tail through last st to BO.

FINISHINGWith WS facing, place a cloth over pieces and carefully block with a steam iron. Pin down edges and leave to dry overnight. With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, weave in loose ends.

Kara Gott is a knitwear designer and freelance illustrator living and knitting in St. Petersburg, Florida.


CO edge—4 sts on needle; fi rst loop cre-ated. Break yarn and slip these 4 sts onto a straight needle. Note: Be sure to slide all loops onto straight needle facing in the same direction. Rep from * until there are 8 loops and 32 sts on straight needle.

Scarf body: With loops on straight needle and WS facing, purl 1 row. Next row: (RS) Work Row 1 of Zigzag chart. Work Rows 1–20 of chart a total of 13 times. Ending I-cord loops: Place all but last 3 sts on holder. Slip rem 3 sts to dpn. *Work a 3" I-cord over 3 sts.

MORE TIPS & TECHNIQUES ONKNITTING DAILY TV

Join editor Eunny Jang on Knit-ting Daily TV and learn innovative knitting techniques, meet trendset-ting designers, and knit along with stylish projects ranging from simple socks to complicated cables. Plus, see the latest yarns on the market and even learn some basic spinning, cro-chet, and needlefelting techniques. Knitting Daily TV is all about fi ber! Check your local public television listings to see if Knitting Daily TV is shown in your area or purchase DVDs online at interweavestore.com. And be sure to check out Knit-tingDailyTV.com for FREE pattern downloads of the projects shown on the show!

make time for yarn every day


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©Interweave 2009.

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Introduction to

FAIR ISLE: The Ivy League Vest

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ORENBURG LACE TRIANGLEby Galina Khmeleva

YARN Regia Silk 4-ply, distributed by Westminster Fibers

Page 50

RUFFLED CAPELET WITH SLEEVESby Pam AllenYARN Bergère de France ToisonPage 52

W R A P SCocoon yourself in a wrap when you need something a bit

warmer than a scarf but are not ready to don a coat.

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MINI PONCHOby Meema SpadolaYARN Knit Picks Andean Silk and Elegance, distributed by Crafts AmericanaPage 56

SCARF 1 SCARFby XXxxYARN xxxxxx

SUMMER SHAWLETTEby Sandi WiseheartYARN Jade Sapphire Mongolian Cashmere 4-PlyPage 53

LACE PONCHOby Susan SternliebYARN Classic Elite KumaraPage 55

CHUNKY LACE WRAP by Lisa ShroyerYARN Knit One, Crochet Too FleecePage 56


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STAR RIB MESH PONCHOby Mary Jane MucklestoneYARN Karabella Yarns MagritePage 57

ARROWHEAD STOLEby Mary Jane MucklestoneYARN Fleece Artist Blue Face Leicester 2-PlyPage 57

STOCKINETTE AND SEED PONCHOby Cyrene Slegona

YARN Brown Sheep Lamb’s Pride Superwash BulkyPage 58

LITTLE ARROWHEAD SHAWLby Pam AllenYARN Halcyon Yarn Gemstone Silk 2/5Page 58


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Th e ordinary can become the extraordinary when embellishments, edgings, and trims are added to an accessory. Here are some simple and basic fi nishing details that you will use time and time again.


Finishing Details

Backstitch*Insert threaded needle at the right side of a stitch, then back out at the left side of a stitch two stitches away. Insert needle again between the first two stitches and bring it out two stitches away. Repeat from * as desired.

Blanket StitchWorking from left to right, bring threaded needle in and out of the knitted background, always keeping the needle on top of the work-ing yarn.

Embroidery

Above photo: Fringe is knitted I-cord (see Glossary). Photo: Carol Kaplan

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EmbBackBlanChaiCrocDupFren Edgithan Twis Emb Bloc

ded nd, rk-

Chain StitchBring threaded needle out from back to front at center of a knitted stitch. Form a short loop and insert needle back where it came out. Keeping the loop under the nee-dle, bring needle back out in center of next stitch to the right.

Crochet Chain Stitch EmbroideryHolding the yarn under the background, insert crochet hook through the center of a knitted stitch, pull up a loop, *insert hook into the center of the next stitch to the right, pull up a second loop through the fi rst loop on the hook. Repeat from *.

Duplicate StitchHorizontal: Bring threaded needle out from back to front at the base of the V of the knitted stitch you want to cover. *Working right to left, pass needle in and out under the stitch in the row above it and back into the base of the same stitch. Bring needle back out at the base of the V of the next stitch to the left. Repeat from * for desired number of stitches.Vertical: Beginning at lowest point, work as for horizontal duplicate stitch, ending by bringing the needle back out at the base of the stitch directly above the stitch just worked.

French KnotBring threaded needle out of knitted background from back to front, wrap yarn around needle one to three times, and use your thumb to hold the wraps in place while you insert needle into background a short distance from where it came out. Pull the needle through the wraps into the background.

Fringe (Applied Fringe)Cut several strands of yarn (the more strands, the thicker the fringe) two times the desired fringe length, plus about 1" for knotting. Fold the yarn in half. Insert a crochet hook into the knitted piece from back to front, catch the folded yarn, and pull it through the knitting. Draw the yarn ends through the loop and pull to tighten. Trim ends to even lengths.

Edgings

Two-Color Plaited Tie Knot four strands (two light, two dark, and each 1½ times the desired fi nished length) in an overhand knot at one end. Hook or pin this end to secure it. Position the strands so that the light strands are on the outside and the dark ones on the inside. Working from the outside, take the left strand over its nearest center strand, and the right strand over its nearest center strand as well as the strand just placed in the center. Continue placing the strands in the center, alternating sides so that like-colored strands form a V shape.


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Figure 3

Figure 4

TasselTo make a tassel, cut a piece of cardboard 3–5" wide and 1" longer than the desired length of your tassel. Beginning and ending at the same bottom edge, securely wrap yarn around cardboard (Figure 3), but not too tight, until you reach the desired fullness of the tassel. (Tip: If you have to make more than one tassel per piece, count the number of wraps so your tassels will be consistent.) Cut a length of yarn at least 12" long and thread through a tap-estry needle. Slip needle underneath wrapped yarn at upper edge, pull together tightly, and fasten with a knot. Leave the yarn tail to sew tassel to work. Cut through yarn at lower edge. Take a second length of yarn and wrap it securely around the tassel several times just below the top-edge knot (Figure 4). Knot securely, thread ends onto tapestry needle, and pull to center of tassel. Trim ends even at bottom edge.

Figure 5Figure 6

Figure 7

Pom-PomCut two circles of cardboard, each ½" larger than desired fi nished pom-pom width. Cut a small circle out of the center and a small wedge out of the side of each circle (Figure 5). Tie a strand of yarn between the circles, hold circles together and wrap with yarn—the more wraps, the thicker the pom-pom. Cut between the circles and knot the tie strand tightly (Figure 6). Place pom-pom between two smaller cardboard circles held together with a needle and trim the edges (Figure 7).

Figure 1 Figure 2

Twisted Fringe (Twisted Cord) Cut several lengths of yarn about fi ve times the desired finished cord length. Fold the strands in half to form two equal groups. Anchor the strands at the fold by looping them over a doorknob. Holding one group in each hand, twist each group tightly in a clockwise direction until they begin to kink (Figure 1). Put both groups in one hand, then release them, allowing them to twist around each other counterclockwise. Smooth out the twists so that they are uniform along the length of the cord. Knot the ends (Figure 2).


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Wet-BlockingBy definition wet-blocking uses more moisture than steam-blocking and can be used to stretch and enlarge a knitted piece (although loosely knitted pieces stretch more easily than tightly knitted ones, and any extra inches you gain in width, you may lose in length). There are three degrees of wet-blocking, depending on the amount of moisture added to the knitted fabric.

Spray-BlockingSpray-blocking is the mildest form of wet-blocking. It works equally well for all fibers—although silks and synthetics require more wetness than wool—and it allows for total control over tem-perature, dampness, and finished texture because you are not restricted to the temperature and amount of steam that comes out of your iron, and you can gently pat and shape the piece with your hands while you work. Pin the handknit to shape right side up on a padded surface placed away from direct sun or heat. Fill a spray bottle with cool tap water and spritz a fine, even mist over the piece. Use your hands to gently pat the moisture into the handknit, if desired, but be careful not to flatten any textured stitches.

Wet-WrappingWet-wrapping imparts moisture deeper into the fibers and is appropriate for all types of yarn, especially cotton and acrylic, which are less resilient than wool and require more moisture penetration to reshape stitches. To wet-wrap, thoroughly soak a large bath towel in water, then put it through the spin cycle of a washing machine to remove excess moisture. Place the hand-knit on top of the towel, then roll the two together jelly-roll fashion. Let the bundle sit until the handknit is completely damp, overnight if necessary. Unroll the towel, remove the hand-knit, and pin it out to measurements on a padded surface away from direct sun or heat.

ImmersionImmersion imparts moisture thoroughly through the fibers and allows complete reshaping. It is appropriate for all fiber types and particularly ideal for heavily ribbed or cabled fabrics or fabrics that have taken on a biased slant during knitting. It is also the method to use after washing a handknit. To immerse a handknit, turn it inside out and soak it in a basin of luke-warm water for about twenty minutes or until thoroughly wet, gently squeezing water through the piece if necessary. Drain the water, carry the wet handknit in a bundle to the washing machine, and put it through the spin cycle (or roll it in dry towels) to remove excess moisture. Do not twist or wring the handknit. Shape the piece right side up on a padded surface, using pins (and blocking wires) as necessary.

BLOCKING TIPS

• Experiment with blocking your gauge swatch before you block an actual knitted piece.

• Do not rub, twist, or wring a handknit. Doing so may distort the stitches beyond correction.

• Before blocking, weave in all loose ends—the blocking process will help secure the ends in place.

• It is preferable to block indi-vidual pieces before sewing them together. Blocking makes the sewing process easier, and the results of blocking are more consistent when you work with a single layer of fabric. You can block a garment that has been sewed together, but the results may not be as good.

• Many experts warn against blocking ribbing, which will lose its natural elasticity if blocked while stretched open. How-ever, ribbing can be successfully blocked if you squeeze it into its most contracted state (so that all the purl stitches recede behind the knit stitches) before you apply moisture.

• Allow the blocked handknit to air- dry completely before moving it.

Blocking


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ORENBURG LACE TRIANGLE

G a l i n a K h m e l e v a

Skill Level Advanced

Finished Size About 42" along each short side and 57" along the long side, blocked.Yarn Regia Silk 4-ply (55% wool, 25% nylon, 20% silk; 218 yd [199 m]/50 g; Fingering #1 Super Fine); #00002 natural meliert, 2 skeins. Yarn distributed by Westminster Fibers.Needles Size 0 (2 mm): straight. Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Marker (m); stitch holder; T-pins; about 4 yd (4 m) thick nylon cord for blocking.Gauge 24 sts and 48 rows = 4" in garter st, blocked.

NOTES

• Slip the fi rst st of every row purlwise with yarn in front.

BOTTOM BORDERWith yarn and thread held tog and using the long-tail method (see Glossary) holding two needles tog, CO 12 sts. Following Bottom Border chart, work two set-up rows, then work Rows 1–16 a total of 27 times—13 sts; 27 points or “teeth.”

TURN FIRST CORNERWork short rows to miter corner as foll:Row 1: Sl 1 pwise, k2, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, k3, k1 and place this st back on left needle, do not work last st—2 sts on left needle.Rows 2, 4, 6, and 8: Knit.Row 3: Sl 1 pwise, k2, yo, k5, yo, k2tog, k2, k1 and place this st back on left needle,

do not work last st—2 sts on left needle.Row 5: Sl 1 pwise, [k2, yo] 2 times, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k2, k1 and place this st back on left needle—1 st on left needle.Row 7: Sl 1 pwise, k2, yo, k1, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1 and place this st back on left needle, do not work last st—2 sts on left needle.Row 9: Sl 1 pwise, k3, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k3tog, yo, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, k1 and place this st back on left needle, do not work last st—2 sts on left needle.Rows 10, 12, and 14: Knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.Row 11: Sl 1 pwise, k3, yo, k2tog, k3, k2tog, yo, k4, k1 and place this st back on left needle—1 st on left needle.Row 13: Sl 1 pwise, k3, yo, k2tog, k1, k2tog, yo, k4, k1 and place this st back on left needle, do not work last st.Row 15: Sl 1 pwise, k3, yo, k3tog, yo, k5, k1 and place this st back on left needle, do not work last st—2 sts on left needle.Row 16: Knit to last 2 sts, k2tog—13 sts on right needle.Next row: (Row 1 of Border chart) Sl 1 pwise, k2, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, k5. Place marker (pm) to divide border and body of shawl.

SET UP FOR BODYWith empty needle and working from begin-ning of bottom border (RS facing), pick up each slipped edge st along straight edge of border by placing needle through the front

of each loop—217 sts picked up (8 sts picked up for each of 27 teeth plus 1 st picked up at set-up row. Knit back across all these loops by knitting in back of each stitch to give a crossed pattern (and prevent large holes). Next row: Sl 1 pwise, knit across the body sts, inc 2 sts evenly spaced, sl marker (sl m), work Row 2 of Border chart—219 body sts, 14 border sts; 233 sts total.

SHAWL BODYBeg with Row 3, work Body chart as foll: Sl 1 pwise, k2, yo, k5, yo, k2tog, k4 (for border), sl m, cont to last 2 sts, working large patt as charted, k2tog. Cont as charted, sl 1 pwise at the beg of every row, and working k2tog at the end of every pattern row of border (odd-numbered rows) to form diagonal edge of triangle. Cont in this manner until a total of 27 teeth have been worked (432 rows), ending with Row 16 of border—4 body sts and 13 border sts rem.

TURN SECOND CORNERRow 1: Sl 1 pwise, k2, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, k3, k1 and place this st back on left needle, do not work last st.Rows 2, 4, 6, and 8: Knit.Row 3: Sl 1 pwise, k2, yo, k5, yo, k2tog, k2, k1 and place this st back on left needle, do not work last st.Row 5: Sl 1 pwise, [k2, yo] 2 times, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k2, knit last st tog with 2 sts from body of shawl (k3tog) and

GRAFTING TECHNIQUESlip fi rst stitch on left needle to right needle, pass second stitch on right needle over fi rst stitch and drop off needle (Figure 1). *Slip fi rst stitch on right needle to left needle, insert tip of right needle through fi rst stitch purlwise and then through second stitch knitwise, drawing second stitch through fi rst, then drop fi rst stitch off needle (Figure 2). Slip fi rst stitch on left needle to right needle, insert tip of left needle through fi rst stitch purlwise and through second stitch knitwise, drawing second stitch through fi rst, then drop fi rst stitch off needle (Figure 3). Repeat from * until one stitch remains.

Figure 2 Figure 3Figure 1


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41715131197531

Set-up row

1

Cast on 12 sts

Beg short-row corner 1

Con

tinu

e 16

-row

bor

der

pat

tern

to

Row

432

, the

n tu

rn c

orne

r 2

usin

g s

hort

–row

s.

First (Rows 1–16) and twenty-seventh (Rows 417–432) teeth shown. Then turn corner 1 using short–rows. Pick up 217 slipped sts to marker. Knit one row in back loop of each stitch. On next row (Row 2 of Border patt), knit to marker while inc 2 sts—219 sts. Knit 14 border sts—233 sts total.

Body

Bottom Border

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Set-up row 2

Cast on 12 sts

Border knit on RS and WS

yo

k2tog on RS and WS

sl 1 pwise with yarn in front

k3tog

sl st pwise with yarn in front (to be picked up later)

knit st and place back on left needle

do not knit stitch

pattern repeat

cast-on and set-up rows

marker


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of needles facing each other.

FINISHINGGraft rem sts as shown on page 50. Cut a short piece of yarn and tie a knot through the rem loop after grafting to prevent raveling. Weave in loose ends. Block as foll: Beg at one corner, thread a thick nylon cord (the sts will stick on cotton, wool, or silk cord) loosely from back to front through each tooth point. Tie the ends of the cord together. Th oroughly wet piece and squeeze out excess moisture. Using T-pins on a fl at surface, pin the three points of the triangle to give the shawl its ba-sic shape and size. Connect the corner T-pins with a separate length of cord to mark fi nal dimensions. Pull the cord between each tooth out to this outer cord and anchor with T-pins. Always pin into the loops formed by the cord, not into the shawl. Adjust the pins and cord as necessary until the shawl is stretched taut.

Galina Khmeleva is co-author of Gossamer Webs: The History and Techniques of Oren-berg Lace Shawls (Interweave, 1998) and co-owner of Skaska Designs. For information about her upcoming lace workshops, visit www.skaska.com.


RUFFLED CAPELET WITH SLEEVES

P a m A l l e n


Finished Size Capelet: 44" circumference just above ruffl e and 14¼" long from bottom edge of ruffl e to top of shoulders with bottom edge unrolled. Sleeves: 9" circumference at upper edge, 8" circumfer-ence at wrist, and 19" long.Yarn Bergère de France Toison (77% acrylic, 20% wool, 3% polyamide; 76 yd [69 m]/50 g; Aran #4 Medium): majeste, 8 balls for capelet, 2 balls for sleeves.Needles Size 10 (6 mm): 29" and 16"; circular (cir) for capelet; size 10 (6 mm): set of 5 double-pointed (dpn) for sleeves. Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Markers (m); stitch holder; tapestry needle.Gauge 14 sts and 23 rnds = 4" in St st worked in the rnd.

NOTES

• Ruffle is picked up and worked downward after the capelet is completed.

CAPELETWith 29" cir needle, CO 154 sts. Place marker (pm) and join for beg of rnd, being careful not to twist sts. K77 sts for front, pm, knit to end of rnd. Work in St st (knit every rnd) for 11 more rnds. Dec rnd: *K2, k2tog, knit to 4 sts before next marker (m), ssk, k2, slip m; rep from * once more—4 sts dec’d; 150 sts rem. Work 10 rnds even. Rep dec rnd—46 sts rem. Work 8 rnds even. Rep dec rnd—142 sts rem. Work 6 rnds even. Rep dec rnd—138 sts rem. Work 4 rnds even. Rep dec rnd—134 sts rem. Work

place this st back onto left needle.Row 7: Sl 1 pwise, k2, yo, k1, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1 and place this st back on left needle, do not work last st.Row 9: Sl 1 pwise, k3, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k3tog, yo, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, k1 and place this st back on left needle, do not work last st.Rows 10, 12, and 14: Knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.Row 11: Sl 1 pwise, k3, yo, k2tog, k3, k2tog, yo, k4, knit last st tog with 2 sts from body of shawl (k3tog) and place this st back on left needle.Row 13: sl 1 pwise, k3, yo, k2tog, k1, k2tog, yo, k4, k1 and place this st back on left needle, do not work last st.Row 15: Sl 1 pwise, k3, yo, k3tog, yo, k5, k1 and place this st back on left needle, do not work last st.Row 16: Knit to last 2 sts, k2tog—13 border sts.

ANGLED BORDERCont working rem sts according to Border chart as established until a total of 35 more teeth have been worked—there will be 280 loops on back side of teeth. Place last 13 sts of the 35th tooth on a holder. Do not break yarn. Join Angled Border to Shawl Body: Beg at bottom of shawl body, pick up all 216 loops onto one needle, with second needle, pick up 280 loops from border strip. Graft as shown on page 50, working every 3rd loop of the 216-loop strip with the 3rd and 4th loops of the 280-loop strip (this cor-rects the 64-loop diff erence between the two pieces)—1 st rem. Place this st on a holder. Transfer held 13 border sts (from 35th tooth) to right needle. Using short-rows as for the fi rst two corners, work through Row 7 of border patt (i.e., work half a tooth)—17 sts on the right needle, yarn at inside of half corner. Pick up 12 original CO sts with other needle from outside of bottom border plus the 1 rem st left from grafting—13 sts total. Knit these 13 sts using the short-row method as with the fi rst and second corners and fi rst half of third corner. Work through Row 7 of border patt—17 sts. Th ere will be 17 sts on each needle with the points


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2 rnds even. Rep dec rnd—130 sts rem. Work dec rnd every rnd 8 more times—98 sts rem; piece should measure about 9¾" from beg. Shape shoulders: Working St st in rows (knit on RS, purl on WS) on 49 front sts only, BO 6 sts at beg of next 4 rows—25 sts front sts rem.

Place front sts on holder. Rejoin yarn to back sts with RS facing. Working back and forth in St st on 49 back sts, BO 6 sts at beg of next 4 rows—25 back sts rem. Place sts on holder. Turn capelet inside out and with yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, sew BO sts tog at each shoulder. Collar: Place 50 sts for front and back on 16" cir needle. With RS facing, join yarn at shoulder and pm for beg of rnd. Work in St st in rnds until collar measures 6". BO all sts loosely. Ruffl e: Beg at side, with longer cir needle and RS facing, pick up and knit 1 st in the fi rst CO st at bottom edge of capelet, *yo, pick up and knit 1 st in next CO st; rep from * to end—308 sts. Place m and join. Work St st in rnds until ruffl e measures 3¾" from pick-up rnd (bottom edge will roll up slightly when fi nished). BO all sts loosely. Weave in loose ends. Block lightly on WS with steam iron held 1" above fabric.

SLEEVESWith dpn, CO 32 sts. Divide sts evenly on four needles, pm, and join for working in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts. Work in St st until piece measures 6" from beg. Dec rnd:

Stitch GuideS2kp2: Sl 2 sts tog kwise as if to k2tog, knit the next st, pass both slipped sts over knit st—2 sts dec’d. Beginning Border: (BB; worked over 7 sts at beg of both RS and WS rows) Sl 1 as if to purl with yarn in front (pwise wyf), [k1, p1] 2 times, k2. End Border: (EB; worked over 7 sts at end of both RS and WS rows) K2, p1, k1, p1, k2.

Little Arrowhead Lace: (multiple of 6 sts + 1)Row 1: (RS) K1, *yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1; rep from *.Rows 2 and 4: (WS) Purl.Row 3: K2, *yo, s2kp2, yo, k3; rep from *, end last rep k2 instead of k3.Rep Rows 1–4 for pattern.

NOTES

• You may fi nd it helpful to place markers between each repeat of the lace pattern.

• Mark the shoulder stitches by placing a removable marker or safety pin in the stitch itself (not between stitches on the needle), and move these markers up every few rows as you work.

• Th e fi rst stitch of every row is slipped purlwise with yarn in front (pwise wyf). Th is will create an attractive “chain” edge along the sides of your shawl.

• To ensure an even slipped-stitch edge, keep yarn taut while slipping the fi rst stitch, then move the yarn over the needle from front to back and pull it taut again before knitting the next stitch.

• Work the decorative bind off very loosely, using a size larger needle to work this row if necessary.

SHAWLNeckband: With waste yarn and crochet hook, use the crochet chain provisional CO method (see page 54) to CO 7 sts. Set-up row: K2, p1, k1, p1, k2. Work 40 rows as foll: Sl 1 pwise wyf, [k1, p1] 2 times, k2. Next row: (WS) With same side of work facing you, rotate piece so selvedge at end of row just completed is uppermost. Bring yarn to front. Skipping the fi rst slipped selvedge st closest to the needle, *wyf, insert right needle from back to front under both legs of next slipped selvedge

K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1—2 sts dec’d; 30 sts rem. Work even until piece measures 12" from beg. Rep dec rnd—28 sts rem. Work even until piece measures 19" from beg. BO all sts. Work second sleeve the same as the fi rst.

FINISHINGWeave in ends.

Pam Allen is the creative director of Classic Elite Yarns. She is the former editor in chief of Interweave Knits, author of Knitting for Dum-mies and Scarf Style, and coauthor of Wrap Style and Lace Style.



SUMMERSHAWLETTES a n d i W i s e h e a r t


Finished Size 60" around lower edge and 15½" long from back of neck to lower edge, after blocking.Yarn Jade Sapphire Mongolian Cashmere 4-Ply (100% cashmere; 155 yd (141 m)/55 g; DK #3 Light): lupine (periwinkle), 2 skeins. Needles Size 10 (6 mm): 24" circular (cir). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Size J/10 (6 mm) crochet hook; smooth waste yarn; markers (m); removable markers or safety pins; tapestry needle.Gauge 16 sts and 25 rows = 4" in St st, after blocking.


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st, wrap yarn around as if to purl, and draw up a purl st onto right needle; rep from * 19 more times—20 sts picked up and purled from selvedge of piece; 27 sts total. With same side of work still facing you, carefully unzip the provisional CO at base of piece and place 7 live sts onto left needle, correct-ing st mounts as necessary. Work across these 7 sts as k2, p1, k1, p1, k2—34 sts. Back and side panels:Row 1: (RS) Work BB (see Stitch Guide) over 7 sts, place marker (pm), knit to last 7 sts, pm, work EB (see Stitch Guide)—7 border sts at each side, 20 back panel sts in center.Row 2: (WS) BB, sl m, purl to next m, sl m, EB.Row 3: BB, sl m, yo, *k1, yo; rep from * to m, sl m, EB—55 sts total: 7 border sts at each side, 41 back panel sts.Row 4: BB, sl m, p11, pm, p19, pm, p11, sl m, EB.Row 5: BB, sl m, *yo, k5, yo, k1 and place a removable marker in this st to mark it as a shoulder st, yo, k5, yo, sl m*, k1, yo, k1, [yo, s2kp2, yo, k3] twice, yo, s2kp2, [yo, k1] twice, sl m; rep from * to * once, sl m, EB—65 sts: 7 border sts at each side, 2 sets of 15 side panel sts with marked shoulder st in center, 21 back panel sts.Even-Numbered Rows 6–26: BB, sl m, purl to last m, sl m, EB.Row 7: BB, sl m, *yo, knit to marked shoulder st, yo, k1 (shoulder st), yo, knit to m, yo*, sl m, k1, yo, pm, work Row 1 of little arrowhead lace (see Stitch Guide) over center 19 sts, pm, yo, k1, sl m; rep

from * to * once, sl m, EB—75 sts: 7 border sts at each side, 2 sets of 19 side panel sts, 23 back panel sts.Row 9: BB, sl m, *yo, knit to marked shoul-der st, yo, k1 (shoulder st), yo, knit to m, yo*, sl m, k1, yo, knit to patt sts, sl m, cont estab-lished patt over center 19 sts, sl m, knit to 1 st before m, yo, k1, sl m; rep from * to * once, sl m, EB—85 sts: 7 border sts at each side, 2 sets of 23 side panel sts, 25 back panel sts.Rows 11, 13, and 15: BB, sl m, *yo, knit to marked shoulder st, yo, k1 (shoulder st), yo, knit to m, yo*, sl m, k1, yo, knit to patt sts, sl m, cont established patt over center 19 sts, sl m, knit to 1 st before m, yo, k1, sl m; rep from * to * once, sl m, EB—115 sts after completing Row 15: 7 border sts at each side, 2 sets of 35 side panel sts, 31 back panel sts.Row 17: BB, sl m, *yo, knit to marked shoulder st, yo, k1 (shoulder st), yo, knit to m, yo*, sl m, k2, yo, s2kp2, yo, k1, sl m, cont established patt over center 19 sts, sl m, k1, yo, s2kp2, yo, k2, sl m; rep from * to * once more—123 sts: 7 border sts at each side, 2

sets of 39 side panel sts, 31 back panel sts.Row 19: BB, sl m, *yo, knit to marked shoul-der st, yo, k1 (shoulder st), yo, knit to m, yo*, sl m, repositioning markers as you come to them, work center 31 sts in established patt (Row 19 should be Row 1 of patt), sl m; rep from * to * once, sl m, EB—131 sts: 7 border sts at each side, 2 sets of 43 side panel sts, 31 back panel sts.Rows 21, 23, and 25: Rep the last 2 rows 3 more times, inc 4 sts in each side panel every RS row, and cont established patt over center 31 sts—155 sts after completing Row 25: 7 border sts at each side, 2 sets of 55 side panel sts, 31 back panel sts.Row 27: Beg with this row, only single incs are worked just inside the borders on RS rows. BB, sl m, yo, knit to 1 st before marked shoulder st, yo, s2kp2 (double decrease is centered over shoulder st), yo, knit to 2 sts before m, k2tog, yo, sl m, cont established patt over center 31 sts, sl m, yo, ssk, knit to 1 st before marked shoulder st, yo, s2kp2, yo, knit to m, yo, sl m, EB—157 sts: 7 border sts at each side, 2 sets of 56 side panel sts, 31 back panel sts.Row 28: Rep Row 6.Rows 29–60: Rep the last 2 rows 16 more times—189 sts after completing Row 59: 7 border sts at each side, 2 sets of 72 side panel sts, 31 back panel sts.Row 61: BB, sl m, yo, k2tog, knit to 1 st before marked shoulder st, yo, s2kp2, yo, knit to 2 sts before m, k2tog, yo, sl m, cont established patt over center 31 sts, sl m, yo, ssk, knit to 1 st before marked shoulder st, yo, s2kp2, yo, knit to 2 sts before m, ssk, yo, sl m, EB—no change to stitch count. Th is should be Row 3 of lace patt.Row 62: Rep Row 6.Lower lace border:Row 1: (RS) BB, sl m, work Row 1 of lace patt over center 175 sts, sl m, EB.Row 2: BB, sl m, purl to last m, sl m, EB.Row 3: BB, sl m, work Row 3 of lace patt over center 175 sts, sl m, EB.Row 4: Rep Row 2.Rows 5 and 6: Rep Rows 1 and 2 once more.Row 7: BB, sl m, knit to last m removing other markers as you come to them, sl last m, EB.Row 8: BB, sl m, purl to last m, dec 1 st in center section, sl m, EB—188 sts.Lower edging:Row 1: (RS) BB, sl m, *k1, p1; rep from * to Figure 1 Figure 2

CROCHET CHAIN (PROVISIONAL) CAST-ON:

With waste yarn and crochet hook, make a loose chain of about four stitches more than you need to cast on. With needle, working yarn, and beginning two stitches from end of chain, pick up and knit one stitch through the back loop of each crochet chain (Figure 1) for desired number of stitches. Work the piece as desired, and when you’re ready to work in the opposite direction, pull out the crochet chain to expose live stitches (Figure 2).


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Gauge 16 sts = 4" wide, and 32 rows (1 patt rep) = 5½" high worked in Ostrich Plumes chart, after blocking.

PONCHOCO 65 sts. Work Ostrich Plumes chart until Rows 1–32 have been repeated a total of 9 times; 288 rows com pleted; piece should mea sure about 50". BO all sts.

FINISHINGBlock to approximate measurements, allow-ing the fabric to curve into scallops on all 4 sides. Bring the BO edge around to meet lower 16" of long side edge and pin in place with long side edge slightly overlapping BO edge. With yarn threaded on tapestry needle,

m, sl m, EB.Row 2: BB, sl m, *p1, k1; rep from * to m, sl m, EB.Rows 3–8: Rep Rows 1 and 2 three more times—8 rows total in seed st lower edging.Bind-off row: (RS) Working loosely (see Notes), *k2tog through the back loops, return st just worked to left needle; rep from * until 1 st rem. Fasten off last st.

FINISHINGWith yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, weave in loose ends. Soak gently in no-rinse wool wash for 15 minutes, then roll in a towel to remove excess moisture. Spread shawl on blocking board or towels, block to fi nished measurements, and let dry completely.

Sandi Wiseheart is the former editor of Knitting Daily and still contributes with her “What’s on Sandi’s Needles” blog. She lives, knits, and writes in Milton, Ontario.


LACE PONCHO

S u s a n S t e r n l i e b


Finished Size Rectangle measures about 16" wide (average) and 50" long, before sewing; edges of piece will be wavy.Yarn Classic Elite Kumara (85% extra fi ne merino, 15% baby camel, 128 yd [117 m]/50 g; Worsted #4 Medium): #5736 java, 4 balls.Needles Size 8 (5 mm). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Tapestry needle; pins.

knit on RS; purl on WS

k2tog

ssk

yo

sl 2 as if to k2tog, k1,pass 2 sl sts over

pattern repeat

31

29

27

25

23

21

19

17

15

13

11

9

7

5

3

1

Ostrich Plumes

sew pieces tog, sewing 1 or 2 sts in from selvedge of upper layer so that curved edge is left free and not pulled straight by the seam. Weave in loose ends.

Susan Sternlieb is a former editorial as-sistant for Interweave Knits.



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tapestry needle.Gauge 7½ sts and 8½ rows = 4"' in little arrowhead lace with yarn doubled.

Stitch GuideLittle Arrowhead Lace: (multiple of 6 sts + 1)Rows 1 and 3: (WS) Purl.Row 2: (RS) K1, *yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1; rep from *.Row 4: K2, *yo, sl 2 kwise, k1, pass 2 slipped sts over, yo, k3; rep from *, ending last rep k2 instead of k3.Rep Rows 1–4 for pattern.

NOTES

• To wear, put one hole over head, wrap the piece under the arm, across the back, under the second arm to the front, and then put the second hole over the head.

• When fi rst worked, the head openings will seem small, but the elasticity of the lace will allow the holes to stretch to fi t over the head. If a larger head opening is desired, work more rows of garter stitch on either side of the head opening.

• For larger wrap than shown, work more repeats of little arrowhead lace between the back “seam” and the beginning of bound-off head openings. Each 4-row pattern repeat added will lengthen each half of the wrap by about 1⅞", which will add about 3¾" to the total length of the wrap.

WRAPWith 2 strands of coral held tog, loosely CO 19 sts. Beg with Row 1, work 4 rows in little arrowhead lace (see Stitch Guide). Purl 1 WS row. Head opening: (RS) K4, join second ball of yarn, BO next 11 sts, k4. Working each side separately, work 3 rows in garter st (knit every row). Next row: (RS) K4, with the backward-loop method (see Glossary), CO 11 sts, k4 to end. Beg with WS Row 1, work 10 reps of little arrowhead lace or until desired length to center back (see Notes). Purl 1 WS row. Change to 2 strands of mango held tog, and knit 1 RS row. Beg with WS Row 1 of patt, work 10 reps of little arrowhead lace, or same number of repeats as for coral half of wrap. Purl 1 WS row. Head opening: (RS) K4, BO next 11 sts, k4. Working each side separately, work 3

MINI PONCHO

M e e m a S p a d o l a

Skill Level Easy

Finished Size Rectangle measures 13" wide and 44" long, before sewing.Yarn Knit Picks Andean Silk (55% super-fi ne alpaca 23% silk, 22% merino wool; 96 yd [88 m]/50 g; Worsted #4 Medium): #23510 lettuce (MC), 4 skeins. Knit Picks Elegance (70% baby alpaca, 30% silk; 110 yd [100 m]/50 g; DK #3 Light): #23530 wild rose (CC) , 1 skein. Yarn distributed by Crafts Americana.Needles Size 7 (4.5 mm). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Sizes E/4 and G/6 crochet hooks; tapestry needle.Gauge 10 sts and 10 rows = 4" in purse stitch.

Stitch GuidePurse Stitch with Selvedge Sts: (even number of sts)All rows: Sl 1 as if to purl with yarn in front, k1, *yo, p2tog; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

NOTES

• See Glossary for crochet chain (ch), slip stitch (sl st), single crochet (sc), and treble crochet (tr) instructions.

PONCHOWith MC, CO 32 sts. Work purse st until piece measures 44" from beg. BO all sts, working each yarnover as its own separate st in the BO row.

5-PETAL FLOWERWith CC and smaller crochet hook, ch 7,

sl st in fi rst ch to join into a ring.Rnd 1: Ch 1, 14 sc into ring, sl st in fi rst ch of rnd.Rnd 2: Ch 4, *[2 tr in next sc] 2 times, ch 3, sc in next sc, ch 3; rep from * 3 more times, [2 tr in next sc] 2 times, ch 3, sl st in fi rst ch of rnd. Fasten off .

FINISHINGBlock to measurements. Lay poncho fl at with BO edge at top, bring BO edge around to beg of left-hand long side. With WS facing, using MC and larger crochet hook, join seam by working sc across, inserting hook through both layers. Fasten off . Edging: With RS fac-ing, using CC and larger hook, work 1 row of sc around both the neck opening and bottom edge, working 1 sc in each slipped selvedge st. Attach crochet fl ower to lower edge of seam on RS. Weave in ends.

Meema Spadola is a former editorial advisor for Interweave Knits.


CHUNKY LACE WRAP

L i s a S h r o y e r


Finished Size About 44"' long and 10½"' wide at center. To fi t a woman’s size small. Yarn Knit One, Crochet Too Fleece (100% polyester; 109 yd [100 m]/50 g; Bulky #5 Bulky): #325 mango, #353 coral, 2 balls each. Needles Size 15 (10 mm). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Size H/8 (5 mm) crochet hook;


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Gauge 21 sts and 28 rows = 4" in lace and St st patt for center of scarf, after blocking. Ex-act gauge is not critical but will aff ect overall scarf dimensions.

Stitch GuideLittle Arrowhead Lace: (worked over 7 sts)Row 1: (RS) K1, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1.Rows 2 and 4: (WS) Purl.Row 3: K2, yo, sl 2 kwise, k1, pass 2 slipped sts over, yo, k2.Rep Rows 1–4 for pattern.

NOTES

• Slip fi rst stitch of every row as if to purl.

SCARFLoosely CO 59 sts.Rib Row 1: (RS) Sl 1, *p1, k1; rep from * to end of row.Rib Row 2: (WS) Sl 1, *k1, p1; rep from * to end of row.Rep these 2 rows until piece measures 1" from CO, ending with a WS row. Work lace and St st patt as foll:Row 1: (RS) Sl 1, [p1, k1] 3 times, p1, *work Row 1 of little arrowhead lace (see Stitch Guide) over 7 sts, p1, k3, p1; rep from * 2 more times, work Row 1 of little arrowhead lace over 7 sts, [p1, k1] 4 times.Rows 2 and 4: (WS) Sl 1, [k1, p1] 3 times, k1, purl to last 8 sts, [k1, p1] 4 times.Row 3: Sl 1, [p1, k1] 3 times, p1, *work Row 3 of little arrowhead lace over 7 sts, p1, k3, p1; rep from * 2 more times, work Row 3 of little arrowhead lace over 7 sts, [p1, k1] 4 times.

rows in garter st. Next row: (RS) K4, with the backward-loop method, CO 11 sts, k4 to end. Beg with Row 1, work 4 rows in little arrow-head lace. Purl 1 WS row. BO all sts loosely.

FINISHINGEdging: With crochet hook and 2 strands of mango held tog, beg at color change at center back, insert hook through st, yo, pull up a loop, insert hook through next st, yo, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), *ch 1, pull loop through both loops on hook, insert hook through next st, yo, pull up a loop; rep from * all the way around outer edge of wrap, keeping crochet sts loose and even, then work a sl st into fi rst st of edging to complete the rnd. Fasten off last st. With 2 strands of mango held tog, work edging in the same manner around both head openings, working loosely so opening will stretch to fi t over head. With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, weave in all loose ends.

Lisa Shroyer is senior editor of Interweave Knits and editor of Knitscene.


ARROWHEAD STOLE

M a r y J a n e M u c k l e s t o n e

Skill Level Easy

Finished Size 10" wide and 51" long, after blocking Yarn Fleece Artist Blue Face Leicester 2-Ply (100% wool; 1000 yd [912 m]/250 g; Finger-ing #1 Super Fine): seafoam, 1 hank. Needles Size 7 (4.5 mm). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Tapestry needle.

Rep Rows 1–4 until piece measures 50" from CO, or 1" less than desired total length, ending with Row 4 of patt. Rep Rib Rows 1 and 2 for 1", ending with a WS row. BO all sts loosely in rib patt.

FINISHINGWeave in loose ends. Block to measurements.

Mary Jane Mucklestone lives in Searsmont, Maine. You can read about her knitting at www.maryjanemidgemink.blogspot.com.


STAR RIB MESH PONCHO


Skill Level Easy

Finished Size Rectangle measures 15" wide and 42" long, before sewing.Yarn Karabella Yarns Margrite (80% extrafi ne merino wool, 20% cashmere, 154 yd [140 m]/50 g; DK #3 Light): #13, 3 balls.Needles Size 7 (4.5 mm). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Tapestry needle.Gauge 19½ sts and 24 rows = 4" in star rib mesh pattern, after blocking.

Stitch GuideSl 2, K1, P2sso: Sl 2 sts as if to k2tog, k1, pass the 2 slipped sts over—2 sts dec’d.

Star Rib Mesh: (multiple of 4 sts + 1)Row 1: (RS) K1, *yo, sl 2, k1, p2sso (see


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above), yo, k1; rep from *.Rows 2 and 4: Purl.Row 3: Ssk, yo, k1, *yo, sl 2, k1, p2sso, yo, k1; rep from * to last 2 sts, yo, k2tog.Rep Rows 1–4 for pattern.

PONCHOCO 73 sts. Knit 7 rows. Next row: K4 (edge sts, work in garter st throughout), p65, k4 (edge sts; work in garter st throughout). Change to star rib mesh patt (see Stitch Guide), and keeping 4 sts at each side in garter st (knit every row), work in patt over center 65 sts until piece measures 42" long, or desired length to fi t around your shoulders. BO all sts loosely; piece does not have 7 rows of garter st at the end.

FINISHINGBlock to measurements. With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, sew BO edge to right selvedge at beg of piece. Weave in loose ends.



STOCKINETTE AND SEED PONCHO

C y r e n e S l e g o n a

Skill Level Easy

Finished Size Rectangle measures 13" wide and 46" long, before sewing.Yarn Brown Sheep Lamb’s Pride Super-wash Bulky (100% washable wool, 110 yd

LITTLE ARROWHEAD SHAWLP a m A l l e n


Finished Size About 40" wide across top edge and 19" long from the center of the top edge to bottom point, after blocking.Yarn Halcyon Yarn Gemstone Silk 2/5 (100% silk; 260 yd [238 m]/100 g; DK #3 Light): #116, 1 skein.Needles Size 7 (4.5 mm): 24" circular (cir). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Markers (m); sharp-point sewing needle.Gauge 18 sts and 21 rows = 4" in charted lace pattern, after blocking.

NOTES

• Shawl begins in the center of the long side at the top and is shaped by increasing one stitch on either side of center and one stitch inside each 2-stitch garter stitch border every RS row. Th e bind-off edge forms the two short sides of the shawl.

• Use markers to set off the center stitch and the garter stitch edges at each side as indicated by green lines on the charts. You may also fi nd it helpful to use markers to set off each full pattern repeat as indicated by the red boxes on the charts.

• When you have worked to the end of Chart 1, the number of stitches will have increased enough to add 2 more repeats of the main pattern on either side of the center stitch. For example, the fi rst time you repeat just Rows 9–20, there will be enough stitches for 3 pattern repeats on each side of the center stitch, the follow-ing time there will be enough stitches for 5 pattern repeats on each side of center, and so on, until there are 13 pattern re-

[101 m]/100 g; Bulky #5 Bulky): fuchsia blaze, 8 skeins. Needles Size 11 (8 mm). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Tapestry needle; markers (optional).Gauge 11 sts and 17 rows = 4" in St st and seed patt with yarn doubled.

Stitch GuideSeed Stitch: (odd number of sts)All rows: *K1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.Rep this row for pattern.

NOTES

• Yarn is used doubled throughout.

• You may fi nd it helpful to place markers between the stockinette and seed stitch patterns until they become established.

PONCHOWith 2 strands of yarn held tog, CO 35 sts. Work in seed st (see Stitch Guide) for 6 rows. Work St st and seed patt as foll:Row 1: (RS) *Work 5 sts seed st, k5; rep from * 2 more times, work 5 sts seed st.Row 2: *Work 5 sts seed st, p5; rep from * 2 more times, work 5 sts seed st.Rep Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 44½" from beg. Work 6 rows seed st. BO all sts.

FINISHINGBlock to measurements. With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, sew short end of rectangle to one end of a long side. Weave in loose ends.

Cyrene Slegona is a former editorial advisor for Interweave Knits.



10162009153247


7

5

3

1

center st

Chart 2

k on RS; p on WS

p on RS; k on WS

yo

k2tog

ssk

sl 2 sts as if to k2tog, k1, pass 2 slipped sts over

no stitch

pattern repeat

marker position

19

17

15

13

11

9

7

5

3

1

center st

Chart 1

Chart 2, and work Rows 1–8 once—207 sts. BO all sts very loosely on next WS row.

FINISHINGWith yarn threaded on a sewing needle, weave in ends by piercing the strands of the shawl on the WS to better secure the slippery silk tails. Pin shawl to fi nished measure-ments. Steam gently without touching iron to shawl and let dry.

Pam Allen is the creative director of Classic Elite Yarns. She is the former editor in chief of Interweave Knits, author of Knitting for Dum-mies and Scarf Style, and coauthor of Wrap Style and Lace Style.


peats on each side of center the sixth and last time you repeat just Rows 9–20.

• You can increase the size of the shawl by adding more repeats of Rows 9–20 before beginning the edging from Chart 2. Every additional 12 rows will add about 1¾" to the height from center of top edge to bottom of point, and about 5¼" to the total “wingspan” across the top edge. Plan to purchase extra yarn if making a larger shawl; the sample shown here used almost exactly a whole skein of the suggested yarn.

SHAWLCO 7 sts. Work Rows 1–20 according to Chart 1, placing markers (pm) as indicated by green lines on Row 1, and, if desired, on either side of pattern reps indicated by red boxes on Row 9 (see Notes). Rep Rows 9–20 six more times, pm between new patt reps as they become established, if desired—191 sts; 92 rows completed from Chart 1. Change to


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H A T SFor winter warmth or fashion frivolity, create a

new look with just a few hours of knitting.

KOOLHAAS HATby Jared FloodYARN Shokay Yarn ShambalaPage 68

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SIDEWAYS GRANDE HATby Laura IrwinYARN Plymouth Baby Alpaca GrandePage 69

SABRINA TAMby Interweave Knits Staff

YARN Filatura di Crosa Ananas, distributed by Tahki Stacy Charles

Page 69


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DECEMBER LIGHTS TAMby Mary Jane MucklestoneYARN Rauma Finullgarn, distributed by Nordic Fiber ArtsPage 70


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LOCK NEST HAT by Teri BarrYARN Cascade 220Page 71

EARFLAP HATSby Interweave Knits StaffYARNS Sirdar Peru, distributed by Knitting Fever; Black Forest Naturwolle, distributed by Muench Yarns; Nashua Handknits Wooly Stripes, distributed by Westminster FibersPage 72

LARKSPUR HATby Kara Gott

YARN Nashua Handknits Julia, distributed by Westminster Fibers

Page 73


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PEEK-A-BOO CLOCHEby Mona SchmidtYARN Reynolds Soft Sea Wool, distributed by JCAPage 74


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BRIOCHE HELMET HATby Kelly BridgesYARN Frog Tree Yarns Alpaca Sport Weight, distributed by T&C ImportsPage 76

TWEED BERETby Kristen TenDykeYARN Tahki Donegal TweedPage 75

MOLLY'S HEADBAND by Pam AllenYARN Frog Tree Yarns Alpaca Sport Weight, distributed by T&C ImportsPage 79


10162009154427

To knit in the round, you’ll need an array of sizes in double-pointed (sets of four or fi ve) and circular needles. Circular needles are available in diff erent lengths, the most com-mon being 16", 24", and 29". Th e circular nee-dle used must be shorter than the circumfer-ence of the garment. You can compact the stitches on the needle, but you can’t stretch out work that is too narrow. Th e shortest cir-cular needle available is 9" so any garment with a narrower c ircumference must be worked on double-pointed needles that can accommodate as little as one stitch per needle. Socks or gloves can be worked on a 9" circular

needle but are more easily worked on double-pointed needles. A 16" needle is a good length of a hat with a 21" circumference, but you’ll need to switch to double-pointed needles as you begin decreasing to shape the crown. Th e pattern will designate what size and length circular needle is recommended or whether double-pointed needles are better. Th e abbre-viation for double-pointed needles is dpn’s and many knitters refer to them by the abbreviation.

Pattern directions for circular knitting call the rows “rounds.” Th e major diff erence be-tween working in rounds and working back and forth in rows is that when you’re working in rounds, you don’t turn the work. Since the right side of the work is always facing you, you don’t need to change knit stitches to purl stitches on the wrong side of the work. For this reason, if you are working in rounds in stockinette stitch, every stitch will be a knit stitch. If you are working rounds in ribbing, simply work each stitch as it appears to main-tain the continuity of the rib.

Th e trickiest part of circular knitting is get-ting started. To knit in the round on circular needles, cast on the recommended number of stitches, just as you would if working on straight needles. Make sure all the cast-on stitches are hanging below the needle and are not twisted around the needle. (Th is is the most common error—stitches get twisted in the process of casting on and the only alternative is to rip out and cast on again.) Now hold one needle tip in each hand with the end of the needle connected to the working yarn in your right hand. Depending on the stitch pattern, knit or purl into the fi rst stitch on the left-hand needle—this was the fi rst cast-on stitch. Again, be careful not to twist stitches. After this fi rst connecting stitch is made, work the rest of the round according to pattern. You may want to place a stitch marker on the needle to help you keep track of the fi rst stitch of the round. You’ll slip this marker as you work each round.

If you’re using double-pointed needles, after casting the stitches on to one needle, divide the total number of stitches evenly

Being able to knit circular to create a tubular fabric has one big advantage—no seams. Plus, if you’re knitting stockinette, you never have to purl!


Circular Knitting

A.K.A. KNITTING IN THE ROUND

Left: You can knit on a variety of needles made from

wood, plastic, or metal: double-pointed, short circular, or long

circular.

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10162009154446

between three or four needles (needles usu-ally come in sets of four or fi ve, but you need one to knit with) by sliding stitches over from either end (Figure 1).

Once you have the stitches on your nee-dles, arrange them in a triangle (or four nee-

dles in a square) so that the cast-on edge faces the inside. Now you’re ready to join your work. With the spare needle, begin to knit with the yarn from the right-hand needle, pulling the fi rst stitch fi rmly to eliminate a gap (Figure 2). After the first stitch use a

marker to mark the beginning of each new round. Work to the end of the first needle and use that needle as a spare to work stitch-es from the next needle. Continue in this manner around.

Figure 1. Divide the stitches among three (or four) double-pointed needles.

Figure 2. Join for circular knitting by work-ing the fi rst cast-on stitch.

Knitting color stripes in the round can result in jogs at the "seam" line where each new round begins. Th is occurs because the fi rst stitch in the row above a color change is actually the last stitch of the previous row of color, so it looks like you didn’t change colors soon enough. (Th is happens because when you’re knitting in the round you’re actually knitting a spiral, not a circle.) In Meg Swansen's Knitting (Interweave, 1999), Meg off ers an inge-nious technique for eliminating these jogs when working solid-color stripes of two or more rounds.

Work the fi rst stripe (let's call that color A) for the desired number of rounds, change colors (color B) and knit one round.

Work the fi rst stitch of the second round with color B as fol-lows: Pick up the right side of the stitch in the row below the stitch on the needle (it will be color A), put it on the left needle and knit it together with the fi rst stitch on the needle. You will

have worked the fi rst stitch of the round twice, but because you work into the stitch below the one on the needle the second time, you have only worked it for one round and it appears as if it were worked just once.

Th e jog between the two colors disappears and the beginning of the round for color changes only is shifted one stitch to the left. Note: Do not change the position of markers required for the placement of any shaping decreases or increases (such as ones used for waist shaping).

Continue working as many rounds as you want with color B. To change to another color, simple repeat the process, working the fi rst stitch of the round a second time by picking up the stitch in the row below the stitch on the needle and knitting it together with the fi rst stitch on the needle, thereby shifting the beginning of the round one more stitch to the left for color changes.

For a video clip of this technique, Eunny Jang demonstrates two ways to avoid the jog on Knitting Daily TV Episode 311.

Join stitches for circular knitting by working the fi rst stitch casted on.


Th e Jogless Jog

Illustrations: Sara Boore

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knit through back loop (tbl)

purl

pattern repeat

1/1 LC: sl 1 st onto cn and hold in front, k1tbl, k1tbl from cn

1/1 RPC: sl 1 st onto cn and hold in back, k1tbl, p1 from cn

1/1 LPC: sl 1 st onto cn and hold in front, p1, k1tbl from cn

KOOLHAAS HAT

J a r e d F l o o d

Skill Level Easy

Finished Size 16" head circumference and 7 (8)" tall. To fi t a woman (man). Hat shown in woman’s size.Yarn Shokay Yarn Shambala (100% yak; 164 yd [150 m]/100 g; Worsted #4 Medium): cranberry, 1 skein.Needles Sizes 6 (4 mm) and 8 (5 mm): 16" circular (cir). Size 8 (5 mm): set of 4 or 5 double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Marker (m); cable needle (cn); tapestry needle.Gauge 26 sts and 30 rows = 4" in lattice patt from chart on larger needle.

HATWith smaller cir needle, CO 104 sts. Place marker (pm) and join for working in the rnd. Next rnd: *K1, p2, k1; rep from * around. Rep last rnd 9 more times—piece measures about 1¼" from CO. Change to larger cir needle and work Rows 1–5 of Lattice chart. Note: Marker placement will shift twice in each chart rep, on Rows 6 and 8. On these rows, work as foll:Rnd 6: Work in patt to last st of rnd, sl last st to right needle, remove m, sl st back to left needle and replace m—this marks the new beg of rnd for Rnds 7 and 8.Work Rnd 7 in patt.Rnd 8: Work in patt to end of rnd, remove m, sl next st and replace m—this marks beg of Rnds 1–5.Work Rows 1–8 of chart 4 (5) times total. Work Row 1 once more. Shape crown: Work as foll, changing to dpn when necessary:

Rnd 1: *P1, knit next 2 sts through their back loops (k2tbl), p2tog, k2tbl, p1; rep from * around—91 sts rem.Rnd 2: *P1, 1/1 LC, p1, 1/1 LC, p1; rep from * around.Rnd 3: *P1, k2tbl, p1, k2tbl, p1; rep from * around.Rnd 4: *1/1 RPC, sl 1, k2tog, psso, 1/1 LPC; rep from * around—65 sts rem.Rnd 5: *K1tbl, p1, k1tbl, p1, k1tbl; rep from * to last 5 sts, k1tbl, p1, k1tbl, p1, sl last st, remove m, sl st back to left needle and replace m.Rnd 6: *Ssk, p1, k1tbl, p1; rep from * around—52 sts rem.Rnd 7: *K1tbl, p1, k1tbl, p1; rep from * around.Rnd 8: *K1tbl, p1, ssk; rep from * around, remove m, sl next st, replace m—39 sts rem.

Lattice

* see note

*

*

65

3

1

87

Rnd 9: *P1, ssk; rep from * around, remove m, sl next st, replace m—26 sts rem.Rnd 10: *Ssk; rep from * around—13 sts rem.Break yarn, leaving a 10" tail. With tail threaded on a tapestry needle, draw tail through all rem sts and pull to gather. Secure tail to WS. Weave in loose ends.

Jared Flood is an artist, a photographer, and a knitwear designer living in Brooklyn. He has published designs in both books and maga-zines and is the creator of Brooklyn Tweed, at www.brooklyntweed.net.



10162009154443


SABRINA TAM

Skill Level Easy

Finished Size 20" circumference, relaxed. Will stretch to 22" circumference.Yarn Filatura di Crosa Ananas (65% vis-cose, 20% polyamide, 15% acrylic, 55 yd [50 m]/50 g; Chunky #5 Bulky): #109 pink/blue/purple multi, 2 balls. Yarn distributed by Tahki Stacy Charles.Needles Size 10 (6 mm): set of 4 double-pointed (dpn) and 16" circular (cir). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge. Notions Markers (m); tapestry needle.Gauge 12 sts and 15 rows = 4" in St st worked in the rnd.

NOTES

• Th e tam is worked in the round from the center of the crown to the outer edge. Be-gin by working on double-pointed needles and switch to a circular needle when the hat circumference is large enough.

• You may fi nd it helpful to use markers between the six sections.

• Th is project uses yarnover (yo) increases for shaping. On the fi rst round, work the yarnover as usual. On the following round, work each yarnover through its back loop to reduce the size of the hole. Th e texture of the yarn will disguise the holes.

TAMWith dpn, CO 6 sts. Divide sts onto 3 dpn, with 2 sts on each dpn. Place marker (pm) and join for working in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts. Work as foll:Rnds 1, 3, and 5: Knit.Rnd 2: *K1, yo; rep from *—12 sts.Rnd 4: *K2, yo; rep from *—18 sts.Rnd 6: *K3, yo; rep from *—24 sts. Cont in this manner, working 1 more st before

making a yo in each inc rnd, and working 1 rnd even between inc rnds, until you’ve worked a rnd of k12, yo—78 sts; 13 sts each in 6 sections. Work even in St st until piece measures about 6½" from center of crown, measured straight along a single column of sts from CO to needles. Cont as foll:Rnd 1: *K11, k2tog; rep from *—72 sts rem.Rnds 2 and 4: Knit.Rnd 3: *K10, k2tog; rep from *—66 sts rem.Rnd 5: *K9, k2tog; rep from *—60 sts rem.Rnds 6–9: *K1, p1; rep from * to end.BO all sts in rib.

FINISHINGWeave in loose ends. Project Photos: Carol Kaplan

SIDEWAYS GRANDE HAT

L a u r a I r w i n

Skill Level Easy

Finished Size 20" circumference. To fi t 21½–23" head circumference.Yarn Plymouth Baby Alpaca Grande (100% baby alpaca; 110 yd [101 m]/100 g; Chunky #5 Bulky): #401 gray, 2 skeins.Needles Size 7 (4.5 mm), size 8 (5 mm), size 9 (5.5 mm), and size 10 (6 mm). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions 2 locking-ring markers; tapestry needle.Gauge 22 sts and 20 rows = 4" in rib patt on largest needles.

HATBrim: With largest needles, CO 42 sts.Row 1: (WS) *K2, p1; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 2: Work sts as they appear.Rep Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 14½" from CO. Change to second largest needles and continue in patt until piece measures 16" from CO. Change to second smallest needles and continue in patt until piece measures 17½" from CO. Change to smallest needles and continue in patt until piece measures 20" from CO. BO all sts in patt.

CROWNWith second largest needles, RS facing, and beg at CO edge, pick up and knit 68 sts along selvedge to BO edge. Rows 1, 3, 5, 7, and 9: (WS) Purl.Row 2: (dec row) K1, *k4, k2tog; rep from * to last st, k1—57 sts rem.Row 4: K1, *k3, k2tog; rep from * to last st, k1—46 sts rem.Row 6: K1, *k2, k2tog; rep from * to last st, k1—35 sts rem.Row 8: K1, *k1, k2tog; rep from * to last st, k1—24 sts rem.Row 10: K1, *k2tog; rep from * to last st, k1—13 sts rem.Row 11: P1, *p2tog; rep from * to last 2 sts, p2—8 sts rem.Cut yarn, leaving an 8" tail. Pull tail through rem 8 sts and fasten off inside.With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, use mattress st (see Glossary) to sew side of hat, being sure to line up ribs.


10162009154443


DECEMBER LIGHTS TAM



Finished Size 18" head circumference at brim; 10" diameter at widest point.Yarn Rauma Finullgarn (100% wool; 180 yd [165 m]/50 g; Fingering #1 Super Fine): #446 rose, #456 fuchsia, #424 tomato red, #4705 light marine blue, #430 green, #455 yellow green, #498 bright olive green, #454 chartreuse, 1 ball each. Yarn distributed by Nordic Fiber Arts. Needles Ribbing—size 2 (2.75 mm): 16" circular (cir). Body—size 3 (3.25 mm): 16" cir and set of 4 or 5 double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

CABLEFirst strap: At bottom edge of hat, mea-sure 1" on each side of seam. Mark with locking-ring markers. With WS facing and largest needles, pick up and knit 4 sts between m and seam on each side of m—8 sts total.Row 1: (RS of hat; WS of strap) K2, p1, k2, p1, k2.Row 2: P2, k1, p2, k1, p2. Rep Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 7¼" from picked up edge, ending with Row 1. Next row: (bind-off row) P1, p2tog, pass purl st over p2tog to BO 1 st, BO all sts to last 3 sts, p2tog, pass st over p2tog to BO 1 st, p1, pass p2tog over purl st to BO 1 st. Fasten off last st—no sts rem. Second strap: With WS facing, measure 2" to the right of fi rst cable strap and mark with locking-ring marker. With WS facing and largest needles, pick up and knit 8 sts between marker and fi rst strap. Beg with Row 1, work as for fi rst strap.

FINISHINGWrap the two straps around each other 3 times, being sure that they lie fl at against hat. With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, sew BO edges of straps to last horizontal rib of hat near crown. Use running st (see Glossary) to secure cable to hat. Weave in loose ends.

Laura Irwin is a featured designer at Sea-plane, an independent designer boutique in Portland, Oregon. Her knitwear patterns have appeared in Knitscene and Inter-weave Knits. She lives in Portland, Oregon.

This project was excerpted from Boutique Knits (Interweave, 2008).


Body27

25

23

21

19

17

15

13

11

9

7

5

3

1

Rib

9

7

5

3

1

with light marine blue, knit

with light marine blue, purl

with chartreuse, knit

with chartreuse, purl

with bright olive green, knit

with bright olive green, purl

with bright olive green, sl 2 tog kwise, k1, p2sso

with yellow green, knit

with yellow green, purl

with yellow green, sl 2 tog kwise, k1, p2sso

with green, knit

with green, purl

with green, sl 2 tog kwise, k1, p2sso

with tomato red, knit

with tomato red, sl 2 tog kwise, k1, p2sso

with fuchsia, knit

with fuchsia, sl 2 tog kwise, k1, p2sso

with rose, knit

with rose, purl

pattern repeat


10202009131312


LOCK NESTHAT

T e r i B a r r

Skill Level Easy

Finished Size 26" head circumference and 19" high, before felting; 22" head circum-ference and 10" high, after felting.Yarn Cascade 220 (100% wool; 220 yd [201 m]/100 g; Worsted #4 Medium): #8888 purple, 1 skein. Needles Size 11 (8 mm): 20" circular (cir) and double-pointed (dpn) needles. Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the cor-rect gauge.Notions Cable needle (cn); markers; tapestry needle.Gauge 12 sts and 16 rows = 4" in St st worked in the rnd before felting; 14 sts and 32 rows = 4" in St st worked in the rnd after felting.

Stitch Guide2/2LC: Sl 2 sts to cn and hold in back, k2, k2 from cn.

NOTE

• This hat is worked in the round in stocki-nette stitch, but is turned inside out after felting so the purl side is the right side.

HAT With cir needle, CO 66 sts. Place marker (pm)and join for working in the rnd, slip-ping last CO st to left needle and knitting the fi rst and last CO sts together—65 sts rem. Next rnd: Sl 1, knit to end. Knit 3 more rnds. Inc rnd: *K4, knit into front and back of next st; rep from * around—78 sts. Work in St st until piece measures 9" from CO. Shaping: Switching to dpn when necessary, start dec rnds as follows:

Wheel

beg

29

27

25

23

21

19

17

15

13

11

9

7

5

3

1

the rnd. Work Rows 1–10 of Rib chart. Next rnd: With rose, knit and inc 24 sts evenly spaced—160 sts. Change to larger needle and work Rows 1–27 of Body chart. Next rnd: With rose, *k32, pm; rep from * 3 more times, knit to end. Top: Work Rows 1–30 of Wheel chart, working each row as foll: *beg at center of chart where indicated, work to left edge of chart, move to right edge of chart (column with double decs) and work to center; rep from * 4 more times. When Row 30 is com-plete, use rem 5 sts and fuchsia to work 5-st I-cord (see Glossary) until cord measures ½". BO all sts. Weave in loose ends. Block to size by stretching over foam core disk (or plate).



Notions Markers (m); tapestry needle; 10" diameter foam core disk (or plate).Gauge 26 sts and 28 rnds = 4" in colorwork patt on larger needle.

HATWith rose and smaller needle, CO 136 sts. Place marker (pm) and join for working in


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Dec Rnd 1: *K10, k2tog; rep from * to last 6 sts, k6—72 sts rem. Knit 3 rnds. Dec Rnd 2: *K2tog, k10; rep from * to end of rnd—66 sts rem. Knit 3 rnds.Dec Rnd 3: K5, *k2tog, k9; rep from * to last 6 sts, k2tog, k4—60 sts rem.Knit 3 rnds.Dec Rnd 4: *K2tog, k8; rep from * to end of rnd—54 sts rem. Knit 3 rnds.Dec Rnd 5: K4, *k2tog, k7; rep from * to last 5 sts, k2tog, k3—48 sts rem.Knit 3 rnds.Dec Rnd 6: *K2tog, k6; rep from * to end of rnd—42 sts rem; piece should measure about 14" from CO. Cable rnd: *K2, 2/2LC (see Stitch Guide); rep from * to end of rnd. Work even in St st until piece measures 19" from CO. BO all sts, leaving last st on the right needle. Pick up and knit 1 st under the fi rst BO st of the rnd. BO rem st and pull tail through the last st on the right needle. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail.

FINISHINGWeave in loose ends. Felting: Place hat in a lingerie bag and, using the lowest water setting, wash with mild wool-safe detergent and a pair of jeans (for added agitation) in hot water and rinse in cold water. Run through cycle, checking regu-larly, until hat reaches desired size. Turn hat inside out and try on to check fi t. You can stretch the piece while it is still wet to adjust the size if necessary. Air-dry.

Teri Barr has taught knitting for over thirty years.


EARFLAP HATS

Skill Level Easy

Finished Size About 18–19 (20–22, 23)" head circumference. To fi t a baby (child or woman, man). Shown in size 22" in Sirdar Peru, 19" in Black Forest Naturwolle, and 23" in Nashua Handknits Wooly Stripes.Yarn Sirdar Peru (50% wool, 40% acrylic, 10% alpaca, 98 yd [90 m]/50 g; Bulky #5 Bulky): #307 damson, 2 balls; distributed by Knitting Fever. Black Forest Naturwolle (100% wool; 110 yd [100 m]/100 g; Bulky #6 Super Bulky): #303 mango, 2 balls; distributed by Muench Yarns. Nashua Handknits Wooly Stripes (100% wool, 88 yd [80 m]/50 g; Aran #4 Medium): #WS0009 faded blues, 3 balls; distributed by Westminster Fibers.Needles Any appropriate size for the yarn chosen: set of 4 or 5 double-pointed (dpn) and 16" circular (cir). Notions Markers (m); waste yarn; safety pins or removable markers; stitch holder; tapestry needle; pom-pom maker (optional).Gauge Any gauge that produces pleasing St st fabric with your chosen yarn and needles.

NOTES

• To try hat on, thread waste yarn through stitches. Return stitches to the needle(s) to continue knitting.

CROWN CO 6 sts. Divide sts onto 3 dpn so that there are 2 sts on each needle. Place marker (pm) and join for working in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts; rnd begins at the center back. Knit 1 rnd.Rnd 1: Inc 6 sts as foll: *K1, M1 (see Glos-sary), pm; rep from * to end of rnd, omitting placing marker after the last rep; end-of-rnd

marker is already in place—12 sts. Rnd 2: Knit. Rnd 3: Inc 6 sts as foll: *K2, M1, slip marker (sl m); rep from * to end of rnd—18 sts. Rnd 4: Knit. Cont to inc 6 sts every other rnd in this manner, working 1 more st before the M1 in each subsequent inc rnd, until hat measures

desired circumference—about 18–19 (20–22, 23)". You may add color or texture patterns in the next section, if desired. Change to cir needle and cont working even in rnds (do not inc) until piece measures 8" from CO, or about 1" less than total desired depth.


10162009154444


LARKSPUR HATK a r a G o t t


Finished Size 20" circumference and 8" high from brim to top, after blocking. Yarn Nashua Handknits Julia (50% wool, 25% kid mohair, 25% alpaca; 93 yd [84 m]/50 g; Worsted #4 Medium): #4936 blue thyme, 2 skeins. Yarn distributed by Westminster Fibers. Needles Size 5 (3.75 mm): 16" circular (cir) and set of 4 double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge. Notions Stitch holder; cable needle (cn); tapestry needle. Gauge 5½ sts and 7 rows = 1" in St st (see Notes on hat gauge).

NOTES

• After blocking hat, the bottom half will “grow” slightly and the stitches will become slightly larger, changing the gauge to about 4½ stitches per inch. Be sure to check gauge while hat is being worked, to match the 5½ sts per inch before blocking.

HATWith cir needle, CO 96 sts. Join for work-ing in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts.Rnd 1: *K32, pm; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnds 2–4: Knit, slipping markers every rnd.Rnd 5: Purl.Rnds 6–8: *K2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.Rnd 9: Purl.Next rnd: Work Row 1 of Zigzag chart (rep should fi t twice between each set of markers). Work Rows 1–20 of chart a total of 2 times. Shape crown: Cont in charted

in the rnd: knit every rndin rows: k on RS; p on WS

2/1 RC: sl 1 st onto cn and hold in back, k2, k1 from cn


pattern repeat

19

17

15

13

11

9

7

5

3

1

Zigzag

BRIM*Purl 1 rnd, knit 1 rnd; rep from * until brim measures 1", ending with a knit rnd, and plac-ing m in the middle of the last rnd, directly opposite the end-of-rnd m, to indicate center front. Mark placement of earfl aps: Earfl ap width is a personal choice; it can range for 3" for a baby to 5" or more for an adult. Transfer sts to waste yarn. Try hat on with end-of-rnd m at the back. Use safety pins or remov-able markers to indicate where you would like each earfl ap to begin and end. Take the hat off and fi ne-tune the positions of the earfl aps so that both earfl aps have the same even number of sts, and so that the edges of the earfl aps are the same distance from center front and back markers. Earfl aps can be closer together at the back of the head to leave a wider opening between them for the face. Next rnd: BO purlwise to marked sts of fi rst earfl ap, purl earfl ap sts, BO purlwise to marked sts of second earfl ap, purl earfl ap sts, BO purlwise to end of rnd—2 groups of earfl ap sts rem. Place sts for one earfl ap on a holder.

EARFLAPS (Make 2) With RS facing, join yarn to earfl ap sts, ready to work a RS row. Work garter st back and forth in rows (knit all sts every row) until piece measures 1". Dec row: (RS) K2, ssk, work to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2—2 sts dec’d. Knit 1 (WS) row even. Rep the last 2 rows as neces-sary until 6 sts rem, ending with a WS row. Next row: (RS) K2, k2tog, k2—5 sts rem. With WS facing, BO all sts.

FINISHINGWeave in loose ends. Anything beyond that is up to you—add colorful braids, tassels, pom-poms, or embroidery to the earfl aps and/or crown. For more variations, work the straight section of the hat in a fancy stitch or color pattern, or two! Use your imagination for infi nite possibilities.



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PEEK-A-BOO CLOCHE

M o n a S c h m i d t


Finished Size About 19½" head circumfer-ence and 8¼" tall, after blocking. Will stretch to fi t up to 23" head circumference.

patt and, changing to dpn when necessary, dec as foll: Rnd 1: Work in patt. Even-Numbered Rnds 2–12: Work in patt. Rnds 3 and 5: *K2tog, work in patt to 2 sts before m, ssk; rep from * to end—6 sts dec’d. Rnd 7: *Slip 2 sts to cn, hold in back, k2, k2tog from cn, work in patt to 2 sts before m, ssk; rep from * to end—6 sts dec’d.Rnds 9, 11, 13, 14, and 15: *K3tog, work in patt to 3 sts before m, sssk (see Glos-sary); rep from * to end—12 sts dec’d. Rnd 16: Work as Rnd 3—12 sts rem. Discontinue patt. Arrange sts so there are 4 on each dpn. With set of 4 sts on fi rst dpn (Needle 1), *work a 7½" I-cord. Pick up and knit 1 st in the space before next needle—5 sts on Needle 1. With spare dpn, pass the second st from needle tip over fi rst—1 st BO. Cont to BO in this manner until 1 st rem on Needle 1—one loop made. Knit 1 st from next dpn (Nee-dle 2)—2 sts on Needle 1. With spare dpn, slip the second st over the fi rst—1 st rem on Needle 1. Slip rem st back to Needle 2—4 sts on Needle 2. Rep from * for Needles 2 and 3, ending when third loop is made. Break yarn and draw through last st to BO. Tie 2 loops tog, then tie the third loop creating a knot on top of hat.

FINISHINGWith WS facing, place a cloth over pieces and carefully block with a steam iron. Pin down edges of hat and leave to dry over-night. With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, weave in loose ends.

Kara Gott is a knitwear designer and freelance illustrator living and knitting in St. Petersburg, Florida.


knit

purl

yo

k2tog

ssk

k3tog

sssk (see Stitch Guide)

no stitch

pattern repeat

Lace45

43

41

39

37

35

33

31

29

27

25

23

21

19

17

15

13

11

9

7

5

3

1

Diagonal Rib

21

19

17

15

13

11

9

7

5

3

1

Yarn Reynolds Soft Sea Wool (100% wool; 162 yd [148 m]/50 g; Sportweight #2 Fine): #853 orange (MC) and #969 red (CC), 1 ball each. Yarn distributed by JCA.Needles Lining and brim—size 2 (2.75 mm): set of 4 or 5 double-pointed (dpn) and 16" circular (cir). Lace outer layer—size 4 (3.5 mm): set of 4 or 5 dpn and 16" cir. Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Markers (m); tapestry needle.Gauge 13 sts and 23 rnds = 2" in St st on smaller needles worked in the round, after blocking.


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Stitch GuideKnit into Back, Purl into Front Increase (k1b-p1f inc): Knit into the back of next st, then purl into the front of same st, and slip st from needle—1 st inc’d; 2 sts made from 1 st.

Sssk: Slip 3 sts individually kwise, insert left needle tip into the fronts of these 3 sts, and use the right needle to knit them tog through their back loops.

NOTES

• Th e hat is worked in the round beginning at the top of the crown for the stockinette lining and worked downward to the knit-and-purl textured brim. Th e lace outer layer is worked upward from the textured brim to the top of the crown.

• When working the brim and lace outer layer, the wrong (purl) side of the lining will be on the outside of the work. Th is allows the right (knit) side of the lining to show through the lace fabric when the stockinette lining is tucked inside the fi nished hat.

• Some rounds of the lace pattern have yarnovers at the beginning and end of the round. For these rounds, you may fi nd it helpful to make the fi nal yarnover and then immediately work the fi rst stitch of the next rnd (the yarnover from the beginning of the round), in order to avoid accidentally dropping one of the yarnovers.

• Pay close attention to any double yarn-overs in the lace pattern to make sure that you work each double yarnover as p1, k1 on the following even-numbered round as shown on chart and do not accidentally drop one of the yarnover loops.

LINING With orange and smaller dpn, CO 6 sts. Arrange sts evenly on 3 dpn (2 sts each needle) place marker (pm), and join for working in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts. Knit 1 rnd.Rnd 1: *K1b-p1f inc (see Stitch Guide); rep from * to end of rnd—12 sts; 4 sts on each needle.Even-Numbered Rnds 2–38: Knit. Rnd 3: *K1; k1b-p1f inc; rep from * to end—18 sts; 6 sts on each needle.Rnd 5: *K2, k1b-p1f inc; rep from * to

end—24 sts; 8 sts on each needle.Rnd 7: *K3, k1b-p1f inc; rep from * to end—30 sts; 10 sts on each needle.Rnd 9: *K4, k1b-p1f inc; rep from * to end—36 sts; 12 sts on each needle.Rnd 11: *K5, k1b-p1f inc; rep from * to end—42 sts; 14 sts on each needle.Odd-Numbered Rnds 13–39: Cont in this manner, working 1 more st before the inc in every odd-numbered rnd until Rnd 39 has been completed and changing to smaller cir when there are too many sts to fi t on the dpn—126 sts.Rnd 40: Knit.Change to smaller cir needle if you have not already done so. Work even in St st until piece measures 4" from last inc rnd (about 45 rnds St st), and about 7½" from beg. Cut orange yarn, leaving an 8" tail.

BRIM Push the lining through the center of the needle so the purl side of the lining is on the outside of the rnd (see Notes). With WS of lining facing you, join red yarn. Next rnd: (RS of brim; WS of lining) K19, k2tog; rep from * to end—120 sts. Work Rnds 1–21 of Diagonal Rib chart—brim measures about 1½", and piece measures about 9" from CO. Change to larger cir needle and knit 1 rnd. With smaller cir needle and knit side of lining facing, slip the smaller needle into each st of fi rst red yarn rnd to pick up 120 sts; these sts are just picked up and placed on the needle without working them, not picked up and knit. Fold brim in half along the purled fold line from Rnd 11 of chart to bring the two needles tog with RS of brim facing outward, and needle with picked-up lining sts in back of needle with live brim sts. Holding both needles tog in the left hand, *k2tog to join 1 brim st tog with 1 lining st; rep from * to end—still 120 sts.

LACE OUTER LAYERNext rnd: *K2, k2tog; rep from * to end of rnd—90 sts rem. Change to Lace chart, and rep Rnds 1–24 of chart 2 times, then work Rnds 25–45 once, changing to larger dpn when there are too few sts to fi t around the cir needle—10 sts rem; 69 lace patt rnds completed; piece measures about 8¼" from purled fold line of brim. Cut yarn, leaving an

8" tail. Th read tail on tapestry needle, draw through rem sts drawstring-fashion, pull tight to close top of crown. Tuck lining in-side hat so St st side of lining shows through the openwork lace patt. Use tail from outer lace layer to stitch the center of both crowns tog and fasten off on WS of hat.

FINISHINGWeave loose ends. Block to measurements.

Mona Schmidt lives in Montreal, Quebec, and is the associate creative director of JCA Inc. Visit her blog www.knitstricken.blogspot.com.



TWEED BERET

K r i s t e n T e n D y k e

Skill Level Easy

Finished Size 19 (22½)" head circumfer-ence. Beret shown measures 19". Yarn Tahki Donegal Tweed (100% wool; 183 yd [167 m]/100 g; Worsted #4 Me-dium): #863 dark red, 1 (2) skein(s). Needles Size 6 (4 mm): set of 5 double-pointed (dpn) and 16" circular (cir). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Markers (m); tapestry needle.Gauge 17 sts and 27 rows = 4" in St st; 19 sts and 27 rows = 4" in 1×1 rib, slightly stretched.


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BRIOCHE HELMET HAT

K e l l y B r i d g e s


Finished Size 16 (18, 18)" circumference and 6 (6½, 7)" long from top to base of earfl ap. To fi t 6–12 months (1–2 years, 2–4 years). Blue hat shown in size small; rose hat shown in size medium.Yarn Frog Tree Yarns Alpaca Sport Weight (100% alpaca; 130 yd [119 m]/50 g; Sport-weight #2 Fine): 1 ball each of MC and CC. Hats shown in #31 blue (MC) with #30 pale blue (CC), and #205 rose (MC) with #95 pink (CC). Yarn distributed by T&C Imports.Needles Size 6 (4 mm): 16" circular (cir) and set of 4 double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Markers (m); tapestry needle.Gauge 14 sts and 42 rnds = 4" in brioche patt worked in the rnd with yarn doubled, and with fabric relaxed and unblocked. As an aid to counting the sts and rows/rnds when checking gauge in brioche stitch, count each column of knit sts as 2 sts, and count each knit st in the column as 2 rows/rnds.

Stitch GuideBrioche Stitch Worked Back and Forth in Rows: (multiple of 2 sts)Set-up row: *Yo, sl 1 as if to purl (pwise) with yarn in back (wyb), k1; rep from *.All rows: *Yo, sl 1 the worked st of the pre-vious rnd pwise wyb, knit the yo and slipped st of previous rnd tog; rep from *.Rep this row for pattern; do not rep the set-up row.

Brioche Stitch Worked in the Round: (multiple of 2 sts)

Stitch Guide1×1 Rib: (worked in rows; multiple of 2 sts + 1)Row 1: K1, *p1, k1; rep from * to end.Row 2: Work sts as they appear (knit the knits sts, purl the purl sts).Rep Row 2 for pattern.

1×1 Rib: (worked in the rnd; multiple of 2 sts)Rnd 1: *K1, p1; rep from * around.Rep Rnd 1 for pattern.

HATWith dpn, CO 8 sts. Divide sts on 3 dpn, place marker (pm), and join for working in the rnd, being careful not to twists sts. Knit 1 rnd and pm between each st. Inc rnd: *M1 (see Glossary), knit to next m, slip m; rep from * around—16 sts. Knit 1 rnd. Rep the shaping of the last 2 rnds (knitting all new sts between m) 18 (22) more times, changing to cir needle when possible—160 (192) sts total; 20 (24) sts between each m. Work in rib patt as foll:Rnd 1: *K9 (11), p1, k10 (12), sl m; rep from * around.

Rnd 2: *K7 (9), p1, work 4 sts in 1×1 rib (see Stitch Guide), k8 (10), sl m; rep from * around.Rnd 3: *K5 (7), p1, work 8 sts in rib; k6 (8), sl m; rep from * around.Rnd 4: *K3 (5), p1, work 12 sts in rib; k4 (6), sl m; rep from * around.Rnd 5: *K1 (3), p1, work 16 sts in rib; k2 (4), sl m; rep from * around. Rnd 6: *K0 (1), p0 (1) work 19 (20) sts in rib; k1 (2), sl m; rep from * around.Rnd 7: Work 1 rnd even in rib.Rnd 8 (dec rnd): *Work to fi rst purl st, k2tog, work in rib patt to last purl st before m, k2tog, work in patt to m (if necessary for your size), sl m; rep from * around—16 sts dec’d.Rep Rnd 8 four (fi ve) more times—80 (96) sts rem. Remove m, leaving the beg-of-rnd m. Work 6 rnds even in St st (knit every rnd). BO all sts loosely.

TWISTWith dpn, CO 3 sts. Work back and forth in rows on dpn in 1×1 rib until piece measures 2" from CO. BO all sts in rib.

FINISHINGPull center of twist through small opening at top of hat and sew to WS, closing hole at top of hat at the same time. With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, weave in loose ends. Block if desired.

Kristen TenDyke lives in Massachusetts, where a jaunty beret has ubiquitous appeal. See more of her designs at www.kristentendyke.com.



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Rnd 1: *Yo, sl 1 the worked st of the previ-ous row/rnd pwise wyb, knit the yo and slipped st of previous rnd tog; rep from *.Rnd 2: *Purl the yo and slipped st of previous rnd tog, yo, sl 1 st worked on the previous rnd pwise wyb, bring yarn to front between needles in position to purl; rep from *.Rep Rnds 1 and 2 for pattern.

NOTES

• Th e earfl aps are worked separately back and forth in short rows after the initial cast on and set-up row. When the earfl aps have been completed, work continues in the round to the end.

• Because this project is worked with two strands of yarn held together, take particular care to insert the needle into both strands and not accidentally split the doubled working strand into two separate stitches.

• When counting stitches, count each slipped stitch and its companion yarnover as one stitch. In other words, do not count the yarnovers as stitches in themselves.

• Each yarnover appears to “straddle” its companion stitch, which should make it easy to identify them as a pair to be worked together on the next row or round. If you are having diffi culty knitting or purling two stitches together, make sure that you are trying to work the yarnover together with the correct stitch. Spreading the stitches out along

the needle can help align the yarnovers with their respective mates.

• Make sure that you don’t accidentally drop any yarnovers that occur at the end of a needle.

• Because the slipped-stitch-yarnover pairs alternate positions from round to round, when one round ends with a slipped-stitch-yarnover pair, the following round will begin with a slipped-stitch-yarnover pair. Th e result is that there will be two slipped-stitch-yarnover pairs next to each other at the end-of-round marker. Be sure to bring the yarn all the way around the needle and to the front of the work for the fi rst yarnover so that each slipped stitch will have its own yarnover.

• When working a k3tog decrease, you will knit together fi ve actual loops on the needle: two knit stitches with their com-panion yarnovers, and the purled stitch between the knit stitch/yarnover pairs.

• Th e earfl aps are set slightly toward the back of the hat, with less distance be-tween them at the nape of the neck than at the front of the forehead; they are not exactly centered on each side of the hat.

HATWith 2 strands of MC held tog and cir needle, CO 56 (64, 64) sts. Do not join into a rnd. Work set-up row of brioche st worked back and forth in rows (see Stitch Guide)—still 56 (64, 64) sts; will appear as 84 (96, 96) loops on the needle because of the yarnovers, but counts as 56 (64, 64) sts (see Notes). Shape earfl aps using short-rows in brioche stitch worked back and forth in rows (see Stitch Guide) as foll:Row 1: Work 4 sts in patt, place marker (pm), work 8 (10, 10) sts in patt, turn.Row 2: Work 4 sts in patt, turn.Row 3: Work 6 sts in patt, turn.Rows 4, 5, and 6: Work 8 sts in patt, turn.Row 7: Work 10 sts in patt, turn.Rows 8, 9, and 10: Work 12 sts in patt, turn.Row 11: Work 14 sts in patt, turn. Cont for your size as foll:Size small:Row 12: Work 14 sts in patt, turn; you will be at the m.Row 13: Remove m, work 34 sts in patt,

pm, work 8 sts in patt, turn—fi rst earfl ap completed.Rep Rows 2–12 for second earfl ap. At end of Row 12, turn; you will be at the m. Re-move m, work 8 sts in patt; you will have worked across all sts of the set-up row at least once—14 rows/rnds completed at deepest point of earfl ap, counted as 7 sts in a knit column on RS. Skip to All sizes below.Sizes medium and large:Rows 12, 13, and 14: Work 16 sts in patt, turn; you will be at the m after completing Row 14.Row 15: Remove m, work 40 sts in patt, pm, work 10 sts in patt, turn—fi rst earfl ap completed.Rep Rows 2–14 for second earfl ap. At end of Row 14, turn; you will be at the m. Re-move m, work 8 sts in patt; you will have worked across all sts of the set-up row at least once—16 rows/rnds completed at deepest point of earfl ap, counted as 8 sts in a knit column on RS.All sizes: Pm with RS facing, and join for working in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts. Change to brioche st in the rnd, and cont in established patt. Work even until piece measures 1¼ (1½, 1½)" from CO edge at shallowest point, or about 2¼ (2½, 2½)" from bottom of earfl aps. Break off 1 strand of MC and join 1 strand of CC; use 1 strand of each color held tog for rem of hat. Cont even in patt until piece measures 2¼ (2½, 3)" (from beg of color change, ending with Rnd 2 of patt. Dec for crown: Cont as foll, changing to dpn when necessary:Dec Rnd 1: *[Yo, sl 1 pwise wyb, knit yo and sl st tog] 2 times, yo, sl 1 pwise wyb, k3tog (see Notes); rep from * 7 (8, 8) times total—42 (48, 48) sts rem. Work 3 rnds even in patt.Dec Rnd 2: *Yo, sl 1 pwise wyb, knit yo and sl st tog, yo, sl 1 pwise wyb, k3tog; rep from * 7 (8, 8) times total—28 (32, 32) sts rem. Work 3 rnds even in patt.Dec Rnd 3: *Yo, sl 1 pwise wyb, k3tog; rep from * 7 (8, 8) times total—14 (16, 16) sts rem. Work 3 rnds even in patt.Dec Rnd 4: [K2tog] 7 (8, 8) times, work-ing all knit sts tog with their yo’s—7 (8, 8) sts rem.


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FINISHINGCut yarn, leaving a 10" tail. Draw tail through rem sts, pull tight, and fasten off . Weave in loose ends. Block lightly to measurements.

Kelly Bridges lives in Gilmanton Iron Works, New Hampshire, and is manager of the Elegant Ewe in Concord, New Hampshire.


Cable

19

17

21

23

25

27

29

31

33

35

7

9

11

13

1

3

5

15

k on RS; p on WS

p on RS; k on WS

yo

k2tog

ssk

k3tog

sl 1 st kwise, k2tog, pass slipped st over

sl 2 sts as if to k2tog, k1, pass 2 slipped sts over

pattern repeat

MOLLY’S HEADBAND

P a m A l l e n

Skill Level Easy

Finished Size 3½" wide and 15" long, not including I-cord ties.Yarn Frog Tree Yarns Alpaca Sport Weight (100% alpaca; 130 yd [119 m]/50 g; Sport-weight #2 Fine): #96 light blue, 1 ball. Yarn distributed by T&C Imports.Needles Size 6 (4 mm): set of 2 double-pointed (dpn). Notions Tapestry needle.Gauge About 21 sts and 32 rows = 4" in

St st. Exact gauge is not critical for this project.HEADBANDWith dpn, CO 3 sts. I-cord tie: *K3, with RS facing slide sts to opposite end of needle, bring yarn around behind work into position to work another RS row; rep from * until I-cord measures 12" long. Lace section: Work Rows 1–16 of Headband chart once—19 sts after completing Row 15. Rep Rows 17–20 only until piece measures about 13" from beg of chart patt, or 2" less than desired length for lace section, ending with Row 20 of chart. Work Rows 21–36 of chart once—3 sts; piece measures about 15" from beg of chart patt. Work I-cord tie on rem 3 sts until second tie measures 12" from end of chart patt. BO all sts. Weave in ends. Block headband to open up lace pattern.

Pam Allen is the creative director of Classic Elite Yarns. She is the former editor of Inter-weave Knits, author of Knitting for Dummies and Scarf Style, and coauthor of Wrap Style and Lace Style.


LACETIPS

• All you need to know to knit lace is how to make yarnovers and decreases and how to count stitches.

• Count stitches after every pattern row to make sure you haven’t inadvertently added or missed a yarnover or decrease.

• To ensure that the cast-on edge will stretch along the lace pattern, choose a very elastic cast-on such as the old Norwegian or knitted method.

• Don’t knit lace patterns when you’re tired or have lots of distractions or poor light. It’s all too easy to make errors.

• Use stitch markers to separate individual pattern repeats, particularly if you’re working a compli-cated pattern.


10162009154446


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In Western countries, socks are typically worked from the leg down to the toe (in many Eastern countries, they’re worked in the oppo-site direction). The size is determined by the circumference of the widest part of the foot.

For your fi rst pair of socks, let’s follow the conventional top-down construction technique. For this example, we’ll use a set of four double-pointed needles. We’ll start by casting on stitches for the cuff, work the cuff and leg in rounds to the heel, work the heel fl ap in rows, shape the heel with short-rows, pick up stitches for the gussets, then decrease the gussets while working in rounds to the toe. We’ll shape the toe along the side in a typical wedge style, and fi nally, fi nish off the tip with a few Kitchener stitches. Th e sock in the photograph (page 82) is a woman’s medium (8" foot circumference) worked with worsted-weight yarn on size 7 (4.5 mm) needles.

Before you can begin, you need to know your gauge. Just like you’ve been instructed that if

you want a sweater to fi t, you need to be sure that your gauge matches the one that’s called for in the pattern if you want your socks to fi t.

Casting OnFor our example here, we’ll make a woman’s

medium sock with worsted-weight yarn at a gauge of 5 stitches to the inch on size 7 (4.5 mm) needles. To begin, you’ll need to get the appro-priate number of stitches onto your needles—40 in our case. Regardless of your needle choice, the fi rst step—casting on—is the same. Th ere are a number of cast-on methods, but for socks you’ll want to choose one that is both sturdy and fl exible. My two favorite methods are the long-tail (also called the Continental; see Glos-sary) and the old Norwegian cast-on (see box, page 95). Both methods involve the interlacing of two yarn ends, which adds stability and strength. Both methods have suffi cient give to allow the sock to stretch over your heel.

Getting Started with Socks A N N B U D D

Article adapted from Getting Started Knitting Socks by Ann Budd ($18.95, Interweave). Above: Sweetheart Socks by Chrissy Gardiner. Both available from your favorite yarn shop, book store, or online at interweavestore.com.

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100%

100%

50%

50% 50%

20%

Socks instructions follow a simple formula of percentages (right)—100% of the stitches are worked for the leg, 50% are worked for the heel, 100% are worked for the foot. The toe is decreased gradually to 50%, then rapidly to about 20%. This sock (left) was knitted with worsted-weight yarn at a gauge of 5 stitches to the inch on size 7 needles.

are all aligned the same way on the needles with the straight edge of the cast-on at the bot-tom of every needle. If the straight edge wraps around one of the needles, the stitches are said to be twisted and you’ll end up knitting a helix. If this happens, the only solution is to rip out all of the stitches and begin again.

CuffTo prevent the

edge from curling, the first inch (or more) of a sock is worked in a non-curling stitch pat-tern, most com-monly a rib. Not only do ribs lie fl at, they also have a tendency to draw in (allowing for stretch), which helps to give a sock a snug fi t. The draw-in results from the juxtaposition of knit and purl stitches. The more boundaries there are between knit and purl stitches, the greater the draw-in.

In our sock, we’ll work the cuff in double rib (k2, p2) for 2".

LegContinue working even in stockinette stitch

(knit every stitch of every round) until the leg measures the desired length from the cast-on row to the beginning of the heel.

Heel FlapThe heel fl ap is the extra bit of knitting

that extends along the back of the heel from the ankle bone to the base of the foot. For our sock, the heel fl ap is worked back and forth in rows on half of the total number of stitches. Rearrange the stitches, if necessary, so that all of the heel stitches are on one needle (the other half of the stitches will be worked later for the instep). Work the heel stitches back and forth in rows as follows: Row 1: (RS) *Sl 1 purlwise with yarn in back (wyb), k1; rep from *.Row 2: (WS) Sl 1 purlwise with yarn in front (wyf), purl to end.Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for the specifi ed number of rows, ending with a wrongside row so that the next row will be a right-side row. For our

Step 1: Using the method of your choice, cast on the recommended number of stitches onto a single needle. Step 2: Distribute the stitches as evenly as pos-sible among three double-pointed needles.

Join for Working in the RoundTo begin working in rounds, you’ll need to

join the fi rst cast-on stitch with the last cast-on stitch to form a ring (page 83).

Most patterns will instruct you to place a marker on the needle when you join for work-ing rounds. This is so you can keep track of where one round ends and the next one begins, and it is especially helpful if you’re working a color or texture pattern. To prevent the marker from falling off the needle if you’re using double-pointed or two circular needles, slip the marker on the needle between the second-to-last and last stitches of the round.

When you join the cast-on stitches for working in rounds, you must be careful not to let the stitches twist or spiral around the nee-dles. Take a minute to ensure that the stitches

Double rib


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Figure 1

example, we’ll work the heel fl ap for a total of 20 rows—there will be 10 elongated stitches in the main fabric of the fl ap and 10 chain sel-vedge stitches.

Heel TurnYou’re now ready to work the magical part

of a sock—the heel turn. The instructions are basically the same, no matter what size sock you’re knitting. The heel is shaped with short-rows, which are nothing more than partial (“short”) rows worked on just the center stitches. This causes the center area to have more rows of knitting, making it longer than the edges, which causes that magical cup shape. Work the short-rows as follows:

Figure 2

Simple JoinJust like the name implies, this method is simple. Just start knitting, beginning with the fi rst cast-on stitch. There will be a small gap at the join, but this can be eff ectively tidied up when the cast-on tail is woven in later.

Crossover JoinStep 1: Slip the fi rst cast-on stitch (it will be on the left needle tip) onto the right needle (Figure 1).

Step 2: With the left needle, pick up the last cast-on stitch (now the second stitch on the right needle), bring it up over the top of the previously moved stitch (Figure 2), and place it on the left needle tip (Figure 3).Th e fi rst and last stitches have exchanged places and the last stitch cast on surrounds the fi rst.

Two-End JoinWork the fi rst two or three stitches of the round with both ends of yarn (the one attached to the ball and the tail end) that were used for the cast-on. After you have worked several stitches, drop the tail end and continue on with the yarn attached to the ball. On the next round, remember that the joining stitches were worked with a double strand of yarn and be sure to work the two strands together as though they were a single stitch.

Figure 1

Figure 2

Figure 3

Ways to Join for Working in Rounds

Row 1: (RS) Knit to 2 stitches beyond the center of the heel stitches (in our example, we have 20 heel stitches, so we’ll knit across 12 of them), ssk (see Glossary), k1 (Figure 1).Row 2: (WS) Sl 1 purlwise wyf, p5, p2tog, p1 (Figure 2). Row 3: (RS) Sl 1 purlwise with yarn in back (wyb), knit to 1 stitch before the gap formed on the previous row (in our example, we’ ll knit 6 stitches), ssk (1 stitch from each side of

the gap), k1 (Figure 3).Row 4: (WS) Sl 1 purlwise wyf, purl to 1 stitch before the gap formed on the previous row (in our example, we’ ll purl 7 stitches), p2tog (1 stitch from each side of the gap), p1 (Figure 4, page 84).Rows 5–8: Repeat Rows 3 and 4 two more times—12 heel stitches will remain on the needle (Figure 5).

Figure 3


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Figure 9

Figure 6

Figure 7

Figure 8

stitches in our case). Step 3: With another new needle (Needle 3), pick up and knit 1 stitch in each chain stitch along the other selvedge edge of the heel flap. In our case, this will be 10 stitches (Figure 11). With the same needle, knit the first 6 heel stitches from Needle 1 again (Figure 12). There will be 52 stitches total—16 stitches on Needle 1 (6 heel stitches plus 10 picked-up gusset

Figure 4

Figure 5

stitches), 20 instep stitches on Needle 2, and 16 stitches on Needle 3 (10 picked-up gusset stitches plus 6 heel stitches).

We are now ready to work in rounds; the round now begins at the center of the heel stitches.

Decrease Gusset StitchesIt’s now time to shape the gussets. We will

GussetsThe next step is to connect the heel with

the instep so that you can work the foot in rounds to the tip of the toe. To form the gus-sets, you’ll create new stitches along the sides of the heel f lap that will connect the newly turned heel stitches with the waiting instep stitches. This is called “pick up and knit.”

Pick Up and Knit Gusset StitchesWorking from right to left, insert a needle

tip under the edge stitch, wrap the yarn around the needle, then pull the needle (and wrapped loop) through to the right side (see box at right). Because you slipped the fi rst stitch of every row while working the heel fl ap, the edge stitches are large and easy to recognize.

Step 1: With the right side facing and working with the needle holding the heel stitches (Nee-dle 1), pick up and knit the closest chain stitch along the selvedge edge of the heel fl ap (Figures 6 and 7). Then pick up 1 stitch in each of the following chain stitches to the end of the heel fl ap (Figures 8 and 9). In our case, all 10 gusset stitches have been picked up with Needle 1.Step 2: With a new needle (Needle 2), knit across all of the instep stitches (Figure 10; 20

Pick Up a Single LoopFor very little bulk along the pick-up edge, pick up gusset stitches through the front half of the edge stitches. Insert the knitting needle under the front half of the selvedge stitch (Figure 1), wrap the yarn around the needle as if to knit (Figure 2), and bring the wrap through to create a new stitch on the needle. Repeat this for every chain edge stitch (Figure 3).

Figure A Figure B Figure C


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Figure 10

Figure 11

Figure 12

Figure 13

Figure 14

Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until 10 stitches remain each on Needle 1 and Needle 3. Because you didn’t decrease any instep stitches, there are still 20 stitches on Needle 2; 40 stitches total.

The gusset decreases will form pronounced

decrease 1 gusset stitch on each side of the in-step stitches every other row until we’re back to our original number of stitches—40. Round 1: On Needle 1, knit to the last 3 stitches (Figure 13), knit the next 2 stitches together (k2tog; Figure 14), then knit the last stitch on Needle 1 (Figure 15). Knit across all the instep stitches on Needle 2 (Figure 16). On Needle 3, knit 1 stitch (Figure 17), slip the next 2 stitches individually knitwise, then knit them together through their back loops (ssk; see Glossary; Figure 18), then knit to the end of Needle 3 (Figure 19). This brings us to the end of the round. We’ve decreased 1 stitch each on Needle 1 and Needle 3, so 15 stitches remain on each heel needle; 50 stitches total.Round 2: Knit all stitches on all needles.

Figure 15

Figure 16

Figure 17

Figure 18

Figure 19

diagonal stitch lines between the beginning of the heel f lap and the foot. When all gusset stitches have been decreased, there will be the same number of stitches as were cast on to begin the leg (Figure 20).

Figure 20


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Figure 29

FootNow it’s just a matter of knitting around

and around until the foot is the desired length to the beginning of the toe shaping. In our case, we’ll knit until the piece measures 7½" from the back of the heel, ending the round at the center of the bottom of the foot.

ToeThere are many ways to shape the toe of a

sock. The toe we’ll work here is called a wedge toe. That’s because it forms a wedge shape, with the decreases all worked along the sides of the foot.

Round 1: On Needle 1, knit to the last 3 stitches (Figure 21), knit 2 stitches together (Figure 22),

Figure 27

Figure 28Figure 25

Figure 26

Figure 21

Figure 22

Figure 23

Figure 24

then knit the last stitch of the needle (Figure 23)—there are now 9 stitches on Needle 1. On Needle 2, knit the fi rst stitch (Figure 24), ssk (Figure 25), knit to the last 3 stitches (Figure 26), k2tog (Figure 27), knit the last stitch of the needle (Figure 28)—there are now 18 stitches on Needle 2. On Needle 3, knit the fi rst stitch (Figure 29), ssk (Figure 30), knit to the end of the needle (Figure 31).Row 2: Knit a l l the stitches on al l of the needles.

Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until half of the original number of stitches remain. In our case that will be 20 stitches—5 stitches each on Needle 1 and Needle 3; 10 stitches on Needle 2. Then repeat Row 1 only (decrease every round) until 8 stitches remain. There

will be 2 stitches each on Needle 1 and Needle 3 and 4 stitches on Needle 2.

You’re nearly done! All that’s left is to close off the tip of the toe with the Kitchener stitch (see Glossary).

When you fi nish the Kitchener stitch, in-sert the needle into the inside of the sock and weave in the tail on the wrong side.

FinishingWeave in loose ends. The loose ends are

the tails of yarn left hanging at the beginning of the cuff, tip of the toe, and possibly else-where along the leg, heel, and foot when you had to join a new ball of yarn. Thread the end on a tapestry needle and work it into the wrong side of the sock.


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Close Holes at the GussetsI’d lie if I said that my socks never had holes

or gaps at the beginning of the gusset. Over time I’ve learned ways to minimize these, but when they do show up, I simply turn the sock inside out and use a piece of yarn to tidy up the off ending area. I pull on the enlarged stitch (or stitches) to bring the extra yarn to the inside of the sock (Figure 32), then use a separate length of yarn threaded on a tapestry needle to secure it in place (Figure 33), striving not to distort the stitches on the right side of the sock.

BlockingBlocking is the fi nal step. Adding moisture

to the knitting will even out the lines of stitches and the fi bers in the yarn.

Damp Method: My favorite method is to lay the socks on a towel on a flat surface, spray them with water, pat them into shape, and leave them to air-dry.

Ann Budd is the author of The Knitter’s Handy Book series and co-author of many of the Style series books from Interweave. Her latest book is Knitted Gifts: Irresistible Projects to Make and Give (Interweave, 2009).

Figure 30

Figure 31

How Much Yarn Will You Need?The amount of yarn you need depends on the gauge and sock size. In general, the fi ner the yarn and the bigger the sock, the more yarn you’ll need. If you plan to add a heavily textured pattern such as cables, you’ll also need more yarn.

Gauge Child M Child L Adult S Adult M Adult L (stitches/inch)

4 125 170 202 252 296 yards

115 156 185 231 271 meters

5 138 188 224 279 329 yards

126 172 205 255 301 meters

6 195 266 317 394 466 yards

179 243 290 361 426 meters

7 215 293 349 434 513 yards

197 268 319 397 469 meters

8 236 322 384 477 564 yards

216 294 351 437 516 meters

Figure 32

Figure 33


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RIB AND CABLE SOCKSby Nancy BushYARN Mountain Colors BearfootPage 92

S I M P L E

S O C K SWearing a pair of handknitted socks is a comfort known only by the wearer—and the knitter who

made them.

KA_088-097_SSocks.indd 88KA_088-097_SSocks.indd 88 10/19/09 9:40:50 AM10/19/09 9:40:50 AM

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COWGIRL SLIPPER SOCKSby Ann BuddYARN Buffalo Gold #6Page 94

BABY'S FIRST SOCKby Ann BuddYARN Dale of Norway Baby UllPage 93


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CITRINE SOCKLETS (left)by Marilyn WebsterYARN Alchemy SanctuaryPage 95


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INFANT'S FANCY SILK SOCKby Nancy BushYARN Lorna’s Laces Shepherd SockPage 97


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RIB AND CABLE SOCKS

N a n c y B u s h

Skill Level Easy

Finished Size 7½" foot circumference, 8" long from cast-on edge to top of heel fl ap, and 9½" long from back of heel to tip of toe. To fi t women’s U.S. shoe sizes 8 to 9.Yarn Mountain Colors Bearfoot (60% superwash wool, 25% mohair, 15% nylon; 350 yd [320 m]/100 g; Fingering #1 Super Fine): wilderness, 1 skein.Needles Size 1 (2.25 mm): set of 4 double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Marker (m); cable needle (cn); tapestry needle.Gauge 14 sts and 20 rnds = 2" in St st worked in the rnd, before blocking.

LEG With yarn doubled, CO 60 sts. Divide sts evenly onto 3 needles (20 sts each needle), place marker (pm), and join for working in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts. Cut off one end of doubled yarn and continue with single strand only. Cuff: *K4, p2, k2, p2; rep from * for 30 rnds or until piece measures 3" from beg. Leg: Work cable and rib patt as foll:Rnd 1: *Sl 2 sts onto cn and hold at front of work, k2, k2 from cn, p2, k2, p2; rep from * to end.Rnds 2–8: Work ribbing as established.Rep Rnds 1–8 fi ve more times, then work Rnd 1 once more—piece should measure about 8" from beg.

HEEL Set up for working heel sts on 1 needle as foll: K2, M1 (see Glossary; this forms

the seam st), [k2, p2] 2 times, k4, p2, k1, place rem sts onto next needle, turn; sl 1, k2, p4, [k2, p2] 2 times, k1 (seam st), [p2, k2] 2 times, p4, k2, p1—31 heel sts. Divide rem 30 sts on 2 needles to be worked later for instep (fi rst and last sts of instep should be knit sts). Work 31 heel sts back and forth in rows as foll:Row 1: (RS) Sl 1, p2, k4, [p2, k2] 2 times, p1 (seam st), [k2, p2] 2 times, k4, p2, k1.Row 2: (WS) Sl 1, k2, p4, [k2, p2] 2 times, k1, [p2, k2] 2 times, p4, k2, p1.Rep Rows 1 and 2 fi fteen times total, ending with a WS row—30 heel fl ap rows total; 15 chain edge sts along each edge of fl ap.Turn heel: Work short-rows as foll (yarn-overs will form very tiny holes at each turn):Row 1: (RS) *Sl 1, k4, yo, k2tog, k5, k2tog, k1, p1 (seam st), k1, k2tog, k5, k2tog, turn.Row 2: (WS) Yo, purl to seam st, k1 (seam st), purl to 10 sts beyond seam st (purl yo of previous row and count it as 1 purl st), turn.Row 3: Yo, k2tog, k5, k2tog, k1, p1 (seam st), k1, k2tog, k5, k2tog (yo of previous row and next st), turn.Rep Rows 2 and 3 four more times—18 sts rem (including yo); decs will not be symmet-rical mirror images on each side of seam st.Row 4: (WS) Sl 1, purl to seam st, k1 (seam st), purl to last 2 sts, p2tog—17 sts; 8 sts each side of seam st.Gussets: With RS facing, rejoin for working in the rnd as foll:Rnd 1: With Needle 1, k7 heel sts, k2tog, k8 (16 heel sts), with same needle, pick up and knit 15 sts along right side of heel fl ap; with Needle 2, work across 30 instep sts in established rib; with Needle 3, pick up and knit 15 sts along left side of heel fl ap, then k8 sts from Needle 1 again—76 sts total: 23 sts each on Needle 1 and Needle 3, 30 instep sts on Needle 2. Rnd begins at center of heel.Rnd 2: Needle 1: knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; Needle 2: work sts as they appear (knit the knits and purl the purls); Needle 3: k1, ssk, knit to end—74 sts rem: 22 sts each on Needle 1 and Needle 3, 30 instep sts on Needle 2.Rnd 3: Work even as established.Rnd 4: Needle 1: knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; Needle 2: work even in patt; Needle 3: k1, ssk, knit to end—2 sts dec’d.Rep Rnds 3 and 4 six more times—60 sts

rem: 15 sts each on Needle 1 and Needle 3, 30 instep sts on Needle 2.

FOOT Cont even in patt as established until foot measures 6½" from back of heel, or about 3" less than desired total length, ending after Needle 3 (center of heel).

TOE Adjust sts so that there are 20 sts on each needle by placing the fi rst 5 instep sts onto Needle 1, and the last 5 instep sts onto Needle 3.Rnd 1: *K19, p1; rep from *.Rnds 2–5: Knit.Rnd 6: *P2tog, k15, p2tog, k1; rep from *—54 sts rem.Rnds 7–10: Knit.Rnd 11: *K1, p2tog, k11, p2tog, k2; rep from *—48 sts rem.Rnds 12–15: Knit.Rnd 16: *K2, p2tog, k7, p2tog, k3; rep from *—42 sts rem.Rnds 17–20: Knit.Rnd 21: *K3, p2tog, k3, p2tog, k4; rep from *—36 sts rem.Rnds 22–25: Knit.Rnd 26: *K4, p3tog, k5; rep from *—30 sts rem.Rnd 27: *K3, p3tog, k4; rep from *—24 sts rem.Rnd 28: *K2, p3tog, k3; rep from *—18 sts rem.Rnd 29: *K1, p3tog, k2; rep from *—12 sts rem.Rnd 30: *P3tog, k1; rep from *—6 sts rem.


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FINISHINGCut yarn, leaving a 12" tail. Th read tail on a tapestry needle, draw through rem sts, and pull up snugly to close end of toe. Weave in loose ends. Block on sock blockers or under a damp towel.

Nancy Bush is the author of many knitting books, including the recent Knitted Lace of Estonia (Interweave, 2008).


BABY’S FIRST SOCK

A n n B u d d

Skill Level Easy

Finished Size About 4" foot circumference, 4¼" long from top of leg to base of heel, and 4¼" long from back of heel to tip of toe.Yarn Dale of Norway Baby Ull (100% super-wash wool yarn; 191 yd [175 m]/50 g ball; Fingering #1 Super Fine): #5226 lavender, 1 ball.Needles Size 1 (2.25 mm): set of 4 double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Tapestry needle; stitch marker (m).Gauge 20 sts and 26 rnds = 2" in basket-weave pattern st worked in the round.

Stitch GuideThree-Needle Bind-off Method Place stitches to be joined onto two separate needles, with either right sides or wrong sides of the work facing together as instructed. *Insert a third needle into the fi rst stitch on each of the other two needles and knit them together as one stitch. Knit the next stitch

on each needle the same way. Pass the fi rst stitch over the second stitch. Repeat from * until one stitch remains on the third needle. Cut yarn and pull the tail through the last stitch.

LEG CO 49 sts. Distribute sts over 3 dpn so that 14 sts are on the fi rst two needles and 21 sts are on the third needle. Pm and join for work-ing in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts. Purl 2 rnds. Knit 1 rnd. Work lacy border as follows,Rnd 1: *K2tog, [k1, yo] twice, k1, k2tog; rep from * to end of rnd.Rnd 2: Knit.Rep Rnds 1 and 2 three more times. Purl 1 rnd. Purl 1 more rnd, ending 1 st before end- of-rnd marker. Sl last st temporarily to right needle, remove m, return last st to beg of fi rst needle, replace marker. On next rnd, k2tog, k15 on fi rst needle; k16 on second needle; k16 on third needle—48 sts rem; 16 sts each needle; dec st is fi rst st on fi rst needle.Work basket-weave patt as follows:Rnds 1–3: *P5, k3; rep from * to end of rnd.Rnds 4–6: *P1, k3, p4; rep from * to end of rnd.Rep Rnds 1–6 three more times, then work Rnds 1–3 once more—27 rnds total.

HEELHeel fl ap—work 23 heel sts back and forth in rows as follows:Set-Up Row 1: P1, k3, p5, k3 onto fi rst needle, sl rem 4 sts onto second needle. Turn work.

Set-Up Row 2: (WS) Sl 1, p2, k5, p3, k5, p3, k4—23 heel sts on one needle for heel.Divide rem 25 sts evenly between 2 needles to work later for instep. Cont as follows:Row 1: Sl 1, p3, k3, [p5, k3] twice.Rows 2 and 4: Sl 1 k3, p3, [k5, p3] twice.Row 3: Sl 1, k2, [p5, k3] twice, p4.Rows 5 and 7: Sl 1, p3, k3, [p5, k3] twice.Row 6: Sl 1, p2, [k5, p3] twice, k4.Rows 8 and 10: Sl 1, k3, p3, [k5, p3] twice.Row 9: Sl 1, k2, [p5, k3] twice, p4.Rows 11–16: Rep Rows 5–10.Rows 17–19: Rep Rows 5–7.Row 20: Sl 1, p3, p2tog, p2, p2tog, p3, p2tog, p2, p2tog, p4—19 heel sts rem. Place all 25 instep sts on one needle.Shape heel: K10, fold the heel sts so that the 2 heel needles are parallel to each other and the WS of the work faces out—10 sts on one heel needle, 9 sts on other heel needle. Using an empty needle, sl the fi rst st (center st of heel and last st worked), then use the three-needle bind-off method to BO the heel sts tog as follows: knit the fi rst st on each needle tog as if to k2tog, pass the slipped st over the dec st to BO 1 st, *knit the next st on each needle tog as if to k2tog, pass the previous st over to BO 1 st; rep from * across all sts—1 heel st rem. Turn heel right side out.Gussets—rejoin for working in the rnd as follows:Rnd 1: With needle holding single st from heel BO and RS facing, pick up and knit 15 sts along side of heel fl ap; with a second needle, work instep sts as [p5, k3] 3 times, p1; with a third needle, pick up and knit 15 sts along other side of heel fl ap—56 sts total: 16 sts on fi rst needle, 25 sts on second needle, 15 sts on third needle.Rnd 2: First needle p5, k3, p8; second needle [p5, k3] 3 times, p1; third needle k7, p5, k3.Rnd 3: First needle p5, k3, p6, p2tog; second needle [p5, k3] 3 times, p1; third needle ssk, k5, p5, k3—54 sts rem.Rnd 4: First needle p1, k3, p5, k6; second needle p1, [k3, p5] 3 times; third needle p7, k3, p4.Rnd 5: First needle p1, k3, p5, k4, k2tog; second needle p1, [k3, p5] 3 times; third


10192009094440


Notions Marker (m); tapestry needle.Gauge 11 sts and 16 rows = 2" in St st worked in the rnd.

Stitch GuideWave Pattern: (multiple of 11 sts) Rnds 1–4: Knit.Rnd 5: *[K2tog] 2 times, [yo, k1] 3 times, yo, [ssk] 2 times; rep from * to end of rnd.Rnd 6: Purl.Rep Rnds 1–6 for pattern.

NOTES

• To make the socks larger or smaller, use needles one or two sizes larger or smaller and lengthen or shorten the foot as necessary.

LEG Using the old Norwegian method (see box at right), loosely CO 44 sts. Arrange sts as evenly as possible on 3 dpn, place marker (pm), and join for working in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts. Work Rnds 1–6 of wave patt (see Stitch Guide) 4 times—24 rnds completed. Knit 5 rnds—piece measures about 3½" from CO.

HEELK10, turn work so WS is facing, sl 1, p21—22 heel sts on 1 dpn. Divide rem 22 sts on 2 needles to be worked later for instep. Work back and forth in rows on 22 heel sts as foll:Row 1: (RS) *Sl 1, k1; rep from * to end.Row 2: (WS) Sl 1, purl to end.Rep Rows 1 and 2 ten more times—22 heel rows completed; 11 chain sts along each selvedge edge. Shape heel: Work short-rows as foll:Row 1: (RS) K13, ssk, k1, turn.Row 2: (WS) Sl 1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn.Row 3: Sl 1, knit to 1 st before gap produced on previous row, ssk, k1, turn.Row 4: Sl 1, purl to 1 st before gap produced on previous row, p2tog, p1, turn.Rep Rows 3 and 4 until all heel sts have been worked, ending with WS Row 4—14 sts rem. Shape gussets: Pick up sts along selvedges of heel fl ap and rejoin for working in the rnd as foll: Rnd 1: With Needle 1, k14 heel sts then pick up and knit 12 sts along selvedge of heel fl ap; with Needle 2, k22 instep sts; with Needle 3,

needle p2tog, p5, k3, p4—52 sts rem.Rnd 6: First needle p1, k3, p5, k5; second needle p1, [k3, p5] 3 times; third needle p6, k3, p4.Rnd 7: First needle p5, k3, p4, p2tog; second needle [p5, k3] 3 times, p1; third needle ssk, k3, p5, k3—50 sts rem.Rnd 8: First needle p5, k3, p5; second needle [p5, k3] 3 times, p1; third needle k4, p5, k3.Rnd 9: First needle p5, k3, p3, p2tog; second needle [p5, k3] 3 times, p1; third needle ssk, k2, p5, k3—48 sts rem.Rnd 10: First needle p1, k3, p5, k3; second needle p1, [k3, p5] 3 times; third needle p4, k3, p4.Rnd 11: First needle p1, k3, p5, k1, k2tog; second needle p1, [k3, p5] 3 times; third needle p2tog, p2, k3, p4—46 sts rem.Rnd 12: First needle p1, k3, p5, k2; second needle p1, [k3, p5] 3 times; third needle p3, k3, p4.Rnd 13: First needle p5, k3, p1, p2tog; second needle [p5, k3] 3 times, p1; third needle ssk, p5, k3—44 sts rem.Rnd 14: First needle p5, k3, p2; second needle [p5, k3] 3 times, p1; third needle k1, p5, k3.Rnd 15: First needle p5, k2, k3tog; second needle [p5, k3] 3 times, sl last st onto third needle: third needle p3tog, p4, k3—40 sts rem.

FOOT Rearrange sts so there are 13 sts on fi rst needle, 16 sts on second needle, and 11 sts on third needle.Rnds 1–3: P1, [k3, p5] 4 times, k3, p4.Rnds 4–6: [P5, k3] 5 times.Rep Rnds 1–6 two more times—piece measures about 3" from back of heel.

TOE Rnd 1: P1, k3, p5, k1, k2tog, p1, p2tog, p2, k3, p5, k1, k2tog, p1, p2tog, p2, k3, p4—36 sts rem.Rnd 2: P1, k3, p5, k2, p4, k3, p5, k2, p4, k3, p4.Rnd 3: P1, k3, p5, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso, p2, k3, p5, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso, p2, k3, p4—32 sts rem.Rnd 4: P5, k3, p3, k1, p5, k3, p2, k2, p5, k3.

Rnd 5: P5, k1, k2tog, p1, k3tog, p5, k3, p1, sl 1, k2tog, psso, p1, p2tog, p2, k3—26 sts rem.Rnd 6: P5, k2, p1, k1, p5, k3, p1, k1, p4, k3.Rnd 7: P1, k1, k2tog, p2, p3tog, p1, k3, p5, p3tog, k1, p1, p2tog, p1—20 sts rem.Rnd 8: P1, k2, p4, k3, p6, k1, p3.Rnd 9: K3, ssk, k2tog, k6, ssk, k2tog, k3—16 sts rem.Arrange sts so there are 4 sts each on the fi rst and third needles and 8 sts on the second needle. With third needle, k4 from fi rst needle—8 sts each on 2 needles. With right sides of work facing out, use the three-needle bind-off method to BO all sts tog as for heel, with the decorative ridge of the BO on RS.

FINISHINGWeave in loose ends. Block lightly.

Ann Budd is the former senior editor of Inter-weave Knits and is currently a book editor. She writes and knits in Boulder, Colorado.


COWGIRL SLIPPER SOCKS

A n n B u d d

Skill Level Easy

Finished Size 8" foot circumference and 8¾" long from back of heel to tip of toe. To fi t a woman’s size medium. Yarn Buff alo Gold #6 (100% buff alo; 120 yd [109 m]/50 g; Worsted #4 Medium): natural brown, 2 skeins.Needles Size 7 (4.5 mm): set of 4 double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.


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OLD NORWEGIAN CAST-ON

Leaving a long tail, make a slipknot, and hold yarn as shown (Figure 1). *Bring needle in front of thumb, under both yarns around thumb, down into center of thumb loop, back forward, and over top of yarn around index fi nger (Figure 2), catch this yarn, and bring needle back down through thumb loop (Figure 3), turning thumb slightly to make room for needle to pass through. Drop loop off thumb and place thumb back in V confi gura-tion while tightening up resulting stitch on needle (Figure 4). Repeat from *.

Figure 1 Figure 4Figure 3Figure 2

pick up and knit 12 sts along selvedge of heel fl ap then knit fi rst 7 heel sts from Needle 1 again—60 sts total: 19 sts each on Needle 1 and Needle 3, 22 sts on Needle 2. Rnd begins at center of heel.Rnd 2: On Needle 1, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; on Needle 2, k22; on Needle 3, k1, ssk, knit to end—2 sts dec’d.Rnd 3: Knit.Rep Rnds 2 and 3 seven more times—44 sts rem.

FOOT Cont even in St st until piece measures 7" from back of heel or about 1¾" less than desired total length.

TOEDec for toe as foll:Rnd 1: On Needle 1, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; on Needle 2, k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; on Needle 3, k1, ssk, knit to end—4 sts dec’d.Rnd 2: Knit.Rep Rnds 1 and 2 fi ve more times—20 sts rem. Rep Rnd 1 only 3 times—8 sts rem. Break yarn, leaving a 10" tail.

FINISHINGArrange 4 sts each on 2 needles for top and bottom of toe, thread tail on a tapestry needle and use the Kitchener st (see Glos-sary) to graft sts tog. For an alternative, no-graft fi nish, thread needle through rem sts, drawstring-fashion, pull tight to close tip

of toe, and fasten off on WS of work. Weave in loose ends. Block lightly.

Ann Budd is the former senior editor of Inter-weave Knits and is currently a book editor. She writes and knits in Boulder, Colorado.


CITRINE SOCKLETS

M a r i l y n W e b s t e r

Skill Level Easy

Finished Size 8" foot circumference and 8¾" long from back of heel to tip of toe. To fi t women’s U.S. shoe sizes 7 to 9.Yarn Alchemy Sanctuary (70% merino, 30% silk; 125 yd [114 m]/50 g; DK #3 Light): #76E citrine, 2 skeins.Needles Size 2 (2.75 mm): set of 4 double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if

necessary to obtain the correct gauge. Notions Marker (m); cable needle (cn); tapestry needle.Gauge 13 sts and 19 rnds = 2" in St st in the rnd.

NOTES

• Citrine Socklet (pictured on left); An-netrelac (pictured on right, page 111)

LEG CO 58 sts. Distribute sts as foll: 29 sts on Needle 1, 15 sts on Needle 2, and 14 sts on Needle 3. Place marker (pm) and join for working in the rnd. Work Rows 1–12 of Cable chart, then rep Rows 9–12 six more times. Rep Row 9 once more, but do not work last st of rnd. Turn.

HEELHeel is worked using short-rows on the 29 sts of Needles 2 and 3. Th is heel construc-tion involves working yo backward (see box on page 96). Row 1: (WS) Yo backward, p27, turn.Row 2: (RS) Yo as usual, k26, turn.Row 3: Yo backward, p25, turn.Row 4: Yo as usual, k24, turn.Cont in this manner, working 1 st less on each row, for 13 more rows, ending with a WS row that is worked as [yo backward, p11, turn].Row 1: (RS) Yo as usual, k11, correct st mount of yo (so right leg is the leading leg), k2tog (yo and the next st), turn.Row 2: Yo backward, p12, ssp (yo and the next st; see Glossary), turn.Row 3: Yo as usual, k13, correct st mount of next 2 yos, k3tog (2 yos and the next st), turn.Row 4: Yo backward, p14, sssp (2 yos and the next st; see on page 96), turn.Rep the shaping of Rows 3 and 4, working 1 more st on each row, for 12 more rows, ending with a WS row that is worked as [yo backward, p26, sssp, turn]. Next row: Yo, k27, correct st mount of next 2 yos, p3tog, turn. Next row: Yo backward, k1, p27, sssk, turn. Next rnd: Yo, p1, k27, p1, sl the yo onto the next needle and correct st mount, p2tog, work Needle 1 in patt (beg with 2nd st of Row 10 of chart) to last st, sl the yo from Needle 2 onto Needle 1, ssp, p1, k27, p1—58 sts rem.


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FOOT Needle 1: Cont in patt for instep; Needles 2 and 3: p1, k27, p1. Cont in patt until foot measures about 6¾" from back of heel or 2" less than desired fi nished length, ending with Row 9 of chart.

TOE Th e toe is worked on the 29 sts of Needle 1. Place 29 sts from Needles 2 and 3 onto one needle, and divide the instep sts on Needle 1 onto two needles. Shape toe using short-rows as foll:Row 1: (RS) Yo as usual, k28, turn.Row 2: (WS) Yo backward, p27, turn.Cont in this manner, working 1 st less on each row, for 16 more rows, ending with a WS row that is worked as [yo backward, p11, turn].Row 1: (RS) Yo as usual, k11, correct st mount of yo, k2tog, turn.Row 2: Yo backward, p12, ssp, turn.Row 3: Yo as usual, k13, correct st mount of next 2 yos, k3tog, turn.Row 4: Yo backward, p14, sssp, turn.Rep the shaping of Rows 3 and 4, working 1 more st on each row, for 12 more rows, ending with a WS row that is worked as [yo backward, p26, sssp, turn]. Next row: (RS) Yo as usual, k27, correct st mount of next 2 yos, p3tog, turn. Next row: Yo backward, k1, p27, sssk.

FINISHINGPlace 29 toe sts onto one needle and sl the yo onto the other needle and correct st mount. (The toe sts will be on the front needle, the sole sts on the back needle.) Cut yarn leaving a 1 yd tail. With tail threaded on a tapestry needle and beg with the back needle, use Kitchener st (see Glossary) to graft sts tog, grafting yo tog with last st. Weave in loose ends.

Marilyn Webster’s passion for fi ber arts began at age six, when her mother taught her to knit while they stood in line at Ma-dame Tussauds Wax Museum in London. She especially loves to knit socks.


YARNOVER BACKWARD

Usually, yarnovers on the purl side are worked by bringing the yarn from the front over the top of the needle to the back, then under the needle to front again (Figure 1). In working a short-row heel, yarnovers are worked in the opposite direction (referred to as yo backward). Bring yarn under needle to back, then over needle to front again, and continue purling row (Figure 2).

SSSP DECREASE

Slip three stitches knitwise, one at a time, and purl them together through their back loops—two stitches decreased.

Figure 2Figure 1

11

9

7

5

3

1

2/1 RC: sl 2 sts onto cn and hold in back, k1, k2 from cn

2/1 LC: sl 1 st onto cn and hold in front, k2, k1 from cn

Cable

knit

purl

sl 1 with yarn in back (wyb)

pattern repeat

v


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INFANT’S FANCY SILK SOCK

N a n c y B u s h

Skill Level Easy

Finished Size 4½" foot circumference, 4¾" long from cast-on edge to top of heel fl ap, and 4¼" long from back of heel to tip of toe. To fi t U.S. infants’ shoe sizes about 3 to 4.Yarn Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Sock (75% wool, 25% nylon; 215 yd [196 m]/2 oz; Fingering #1 Super Fine): #0ns natural, 1 skein.Needles Size 00 (1.75 mm): set of 4 double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Stitch marker (m); tapestry needle.Gauge 10½ sts and 13 rnds = 1" in St st worked in the rnd, before blocking.

STITCH GUIDE Leg Pattern: (multiple of 4 sts)Rnd 1: *K1, yo, k2tog, p1; rep from *.Rnds 2 and 4: *K3, p1; rep from *.Rnd 3: *Yo, k2tog, k1, p1; rep from *.Rep Rnds 1–4 for pattern.

LEGHolding 2 needles tog, CO 48 sts. Remove 1 needle from CO sts. Divide sts evenly onto 3 needles (16 sts each needle). Join for working in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts, and place marker (pm) after fi rst st to denote beg of rnd. Cuff: Work k2, p2 ribbing for 21 rnds—piece should measure 1½" from beg.Rep 4 rnds of leg patt (see Stitch Guide) 10 times total—40 patt rnds completed; piece should measure about 4¾" from beg.

HEELHeel fl ap: [Sl 1, k1] 3 times, sl 1, [k2tog, sl 1] 5 times, [k1, sl 1] 2 times, k1—22 heel sts. Hold rem 21 sts on 2 needles to be worked

later for instep (fi rst and last sts on instep needle are purl sts). Work 22 heel sts back and forth in rows as foll:Row 1: (WS) Sl 1, p21. Row 2: (RS) *Sl 1, k1; rep from *.Rep Rows 1 and 2 until a total of 24 rows have been worked, ending with a WS row—12 chain sts (slipped selvedge sts) along each edge of heel fl ap. Turn heel: Cont in short-rows as foll:Row 1: (RS) Sl 1, k13, k2tog, turn.Row 2: (WS) Sl 1, p6, p2tog, turn.Row 3: Sl 1, k6, k2tog, turn.Rep Rows 2 and 3 until 8 sts rem, ending with a WS row. Next row: Sl 1, k1, [k2tog] 2 times, k2—6 sts rem. Gussets: Rejoin for working in the rnd as foll:Rnd 1: With needle holding 6 heel sts (Needle 1), pick up and knit 12 sts along right side of heel fl ap; with Needle 2, p1, work Rnd 1 of leg patt over next 20 sts; with Needle 3, pick up and knit 12 sts along left side of heel fl ap, then knit the fi rst 3 sts from Needle 1 again—51 sts total: 15 sts each on Needles 1 and 3, 21 instep sts on Needle 2. Rnd begins at back of heel.Rnd 2: On Needle 1, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; on Needle 2, p1, work 20 sts in leg patt as established; on Needle 3, k1, sl 1, k1, psso, knit to end—2 sts dec’d.Rnd 3: On Needle 1, knit; on Needle 2, work instep sts as established; on Needle 3, knit. Rep Rnds 2 and 3 two more times—45 sts rem: 12 sts each on Needles 1 and 3, 21 instep sts on Needle 2.

FOOTCont as established, working the heel sts in St st and the instep sts in patt until foot measures 3¼", or 1" less than desired total length.

TOERnd 1: *K2tog, k3; rep from *—36 sts rem.Rnds 2–4: Knit.Rnd 5: *K2tog, k2; rep from *—27 sts rem. Rnds 6 and 7: Knit even.Rnd 8: *K2tog, k1; rep from *—18 sts rem.Rnds 9 and 10: Knit even.Rnd 11: *K2tog; rep from *—9 sts rem.Cut yarn, thread tail on a tapestry needle, draw tail through rem sts, and pull up snugly

to close end of toe. Weave in loose ends.

FINISHINGBlock on sock blockers or under a damp towel.


This project was excerpted from Knitting Vintage Socks (Interweave, 2005).



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UP-DOWN SPIRAL SOXby Sandy CushmanYARN Plymouth Country Prints 8-ply and Country 8-plyPage 103

F A N C Y

S O C K SYou’ve tackled the basics of double-pointed

needles, turning a heel and forming gussets, now you’re ready to add in color, lace, or cables.

KA_098-115_FSocks.indd 98KA_098-115_FSocks.indd 98 10/19/09 9:43:51 AM10/19/09 9:43:51 AM

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HAT 1 HERE HEREby XXxxYARN xxxxxx

ALGONQUIN SOCKSby Gayle BunnYARN Brown Sheep Nature Spun Sport WeightPage 108

BAZAAR SOCKSby Priscilla Gibson-RobertsYARN Brown Sheep Cotton FinePage 104


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TRAVELER’S STOCKINGSby Nancy BushYARN Koigu Premium MerinoPage 112

ANNETRELAC SOCKSby Sandy BeadleYARN Schaefer AnnePage 111

A HOLIDAY STOCKINGby Nancy BushYARN Dale of Norway HeiloPage 109


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BELLS & WHISTLES SOCKSby Mona SchmidtYARN Reynolds Whiskey, distributed by JCAPage 113


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WISHBONE SOCKSby Nancy BushYARN Louet Gems Fingering WeightPage 115


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UP-DOWN SPIRAL SOXS a n d y C u s h m a n


Finished Size To fi t a woman’s average (large) foot. About 7½ (8)" around and about 9¼ (10)" long.Yarn Plymouth Country Prints 8-ply (100% superwash wool, 105 yd [96 m]/50 g; Wor-sted #4 Medium): #25, 1 ball. Plymouth Country 8-Ply (100% superwash wool; 106 yd [97 m]/50 g; Worsted #4 Me-dium): #18 red (MC), 2 balls, #9215 grayish green, 1 ball. Small amount of contrasting waste yarn.Needles Size 5 (3.75 mm): set of 5 double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if neces-sary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Markers (m); tapestry needle.Gauge 24 sts and 28 rows = 4", unblocked; 22 sts = 4", blocked.

NOTES

• Rounds begin at the inside of the foot, hence, the instep stitches are worked fi rst for the right sock and the sole stitches are worked fi rst for the left sock to place “seam” (color changes) at inside leg, where they are least noticeable.

• At color changes, always bring the new yarn under the old to prevent holes.

Stitch GuideSlip-Stitch Pattern:(multiple of 4 sts)Rnds 1 and 2: With CC, *k3, sl 1; rep from *.Rnds 3 and 4: With MC, sl 1, *k3, sl 1; rep from *, end k3.Rnds 5 and 6: With CC, k1, sl 1, *k3, sl 1; rep from *, end k2.

Rnds 7 and 8: With MC, k2, sl 1, *k3, sl 1; rep from *, end k1.Rep Rnds 1–8 for a right-leaning pattern. Work the opposite direction (Rnds 8–1) for a left-leaning pattern.

TOE-UP SOCKRight Sock, Toe: With red, CO 4 sts onto 1 dpn. Beg with a knit row, work 9 rows St st. With RS facing, use 3 other dpn to pick up and knit 6 sts along one side edge, 4 sts across CO edge, and 6 sts along other side edge (see box on page 104), then knit the fi rst 2 sts from the original 4—20 sts total. Place marker (pm) and join, arranging sts so that there are 5 sts on each of 4 dpn, and placing a second m between the 10th and 11th sts. Shape toe: Beg with red and alternating 2 rnds red with 2 rnds green, inc as foll:Rnds 1, 3, 5, 7, and 9: Knit.Rnds 2, 4, 6, 8, and 10: K1, M1, knit to 1 st before next m, M1, k2, M1, knit to 1 st before next m, M1, k1—4 sts inc’d each rnd; 40 sts after Rnd 10.Rnd 11: Knit.For size small only:Rnd 12: K1, M1, knit to 1 st before next m, M1, knit to end—42 sts.Rnd 13: Knit.Rnd 14: Knit to m, k1, M1, knit to 1 st before next m, M1, k1—44 sts.For size large only:Rnd 12: K1, M1, knit to 1 st before next m, M1, k2, M1, knit to 1 st before next m, M1, k1—44 sts.Rnd 13: Knit.Rnd 14: K1, M1, knit to 1 st before next m, M1, knit to end—46 sts.

Rnd 15: Knit.Rnd 16: K1, M1, knit to 1 st before next m, M1, knit to end—48 sts.

FOOTWork 0 (2) rnds red. Break off green. Join multicolored yarn and work Rnds 1–8 of slip-stitch patt until piece measures about 7 (7½)" from beg, or about 2¼ (2½)" less than desired total length (including heel), ending with an even- numbered rnd. Mark heel opening: Cont in patt across fi rst 22 (24) sts for the instep, drop main yarn, with contrasting waste yarn k22 (24) sts for heel, drop contrasting yarn, pick up main yarn, knit across the 22 (24) waste-yarn sts, knit to end of rnd. Note: Do not work slip-st patt on the 22 (24) heel sts for 2 rnds. Resume patt on all sts on the next odd-numbered rnd of patt.

LEGCont in patt until piece measures 2¼" less than desired total length to top. Border: (Knit 2 rnds red, knit 2 rnds green) 3 times—6 stripes. With red, knit 5 rnds. BO all sts loosely.

HEELPlace dpns through the 22 (24) sts on either side of the waste yarn, then care-fully remove waste yarn as illustrated in box on page 104. Arrange sts so that there are 11 (12) leg sts on each of 2 dpn and 11 (12) foot sts on each of 2 other dpn—44 (48) sts total. With red and beg at the gap between the leg and foot sts, pick up and knit 2 sts in gap, k22 (24), pick up and knit 4 sts in the gap on the other side (placing another m between the 2nd and 3rd picked-up st), k22 (24), then pick up and knit 2 sts in the fi rst gap—52 (56) sts. Place m and join. K1, ssk, knit to 3 sts from next m, k2tog, k1; rep from *—4 sts dec’d. Alternating 2 rnds green with 2 rnds red, dec in this manner every other rnd 7 times total—24 (28) sts rem. Th en dec every rnd until 12 sts rem. Knit 1 rnd. Use the Kitchener st (see Glossary) to graft the rem sts tog.

LEFT SOCKWork as for right sock, but work slip-st


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#310 wild orange (medium orange), #560 my blue heaven (aqua), #005 cavern (black), 1 skein each. Needles Sizes 0 (2 mm) and 1 (2.25 mm): set of 5 double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge. Notions Waste yarn for provisional CO; markers (m); tapestry needle. Gauge 20 sts and 24 rows = 2" on smaller needles in striped toe/heel patt.

Stitch GuideSssp (double decrease): With yarn in front, sl 3 sts kwise one at a time. Sl 3 sts back onto left-hand needle and purl sts tog through back loops.

Colorways: The fi rst color listed is the foreground, and the second color is the back-ground. Since sock is worked from the toe up, bands are numbered from the toe. Pair 1: Toe/heel: Light orange on medium orange.1st band: Medium pink on purple.2nd band: Black on dark ochre. 3rd band: Light orange on purple.4th band: Black on medium pink.5th band: Dark ochre on purple.6th band: Light orange on black. 7th band: Purple on medium orange. 8th band: Medium pink on black. 9th band: Light orange on medium orange.

Pair 2:Toe/heel: Light orange on dark ochre. 1st band: Medium blue on black. 2nd band: Dark pink on light orange. 3rd band: Black on sage. 4th band: Medium blue on dark pink. 5th band: Dark ochre on black. 6th band: Sage on dark pink. 7th band: Black on light orange. 8th band: Medium blue on sage. 9th band: Light orange on dark ochre.

Pair 3:Toe/heel: Medium pink on barn red. 1st band: Burgundy on dark ochre. 2nd band: Black on aqua. 3rd band: Barn red on dark ochre. 4th band: Medium pink on burgundy. 5th band: Dark ochre on black. 6th band: Burgundy on aqua.

patt in the opposite direction (Rnds 8–1) and mark the heel opening on the fi rst 22 (24) sts of the rnd.

FINISHINGWeave in loose ends. Block.

Sandy Cushman designs knitwear from her mountain home in Durango, Colorado.


BAZAAR SOCKSP r i s c i l l a G i b s o n - R o b e r t s


Finished Size 7½" foot circumference, 6¼" long from cuff to top of heel, and 8¾" long from back of heel to tip of toe. To fi t women’s U.S. shoe sizes 7 to 8. Yarn Brown Sheep Cotton Fine (80%

cotton; 20% wool; 222 yd [203 m]/50 g; Fingering #1 Super Fine): Pair 1: #345 gold dust (light orange), #310 wild orange (medium orange), #210 tea rose (medium pink), #730 raging purple (purple), #005 cavern (black), #860 sedona red (dark ochre), 1 skein each. Pair 2: #345 gold dust (light orange), #860 sedona red (dark ochre), #765 blue paradise (medium blue), #005 cavern (black), #810 cherry moon (dark pink), #360 wild sage (sage), 1 skein each. Pair 3: #210 tea rose (medium pink), #201 barn red, #850 berry (burgundy), #860 sedona red (dark ochre), #005 cavern (black), #560 my blue heaven (aqua), 1 skein each. Pair 4: #770 wisteria (light purple), #730 raging purple (purple), #345 gold dust (light orange), #810 cherry moon (dark pink), #765 blue paradise (medium blue), #005 cavern (black), 1 skein each.Pair 5: #560 my blue heaven (aqua), #765 blue paradise (medium blue), #005 cavern (black), #201 barn red, #840 lime light (bright green), #810 cherry moon (dark pink), 1 skein each. Pair 6: #210 tea rose (medium pink), #850 berry (burgundy), #840 lime light (bright green), #310 wild orange (medium orange), #005 cavern (black), #201 barn red, 1 skein each. Pair 7: #840 lime light (bright green), #360 wild sage (sage), #770 wisteria (light purple),

SET-UP FOR WORKING A SQUARE TOE IN THE ROUND

To set up for working in the round, pick up sts along the sides and cast-on edge of the knit-ting as shown.

PICKING UP AFTERTHOUGHT HEEL STITCHES

To begin heel, insert needles through stitches on either side of the contrasting waste yarn, then remove waste yarn.


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7th band: Black on barn red.8th band: Aqua on dark ochre. 9th band: Medium pink on barn red.

Pair 4:Toe/heel: Light purple on purple. 1st band: Light orange on dark pink. 2nd band: Medium blue on light purple. 3rd band: Dark pink on black. 4th band: Purple on light orange. 5th band: Dark pink on medium blue. 6th band: Light orange on light purple. 7th band: Dark pink on purple.8th band: Medium blue on black. 9th band: Light purple on purple.

Pair 5: Toe/heel: Aqua on medium blue. 1st band: Black on barn red. 2nd band: Medium blue on bright green. 3rd band: Aqua on dark pink. 4th band: Bright green on black. 5th band: Barn red on dark pink. 6th band: Aqua on black. 7th band: Medium blue on barn red. 8th band: Dark pink on bright green. 9th band: Aqua on medium blue.

Pair 6: Toe/heel: Medium pink on burgundy. 1st band: Bright green on medium orange. 2nd band: Black on burgundy. 3rd band: Barn red on medium orange. 4th band: Bright green on black. 5th band: Medium pink on barn red.6th band: Bright green on burgundy. 7th band: Black on medium orange. 8th band: Barn red on bright green.9th band: Medium pink on burgundy.

Pair 7:Toe/heel: Bright green on sage. 1st band: Light purple on medium orange. 2nd band: Sage on aqua. 3rd band: Light purple on black. 4th band: Medium orange on bright green. 5th band: Aqua on light purple. 6th band: Black on medium orange. 7th band: Light purple on sage. 8th band: Medium orange on aqua. 9th band: Bright green on sage.

NOTES

• When working toe and heel joins, main-

SSP DECREASEHolding yarn in front, slip two stitches knitwise one at a time onto right needle (Figure 1). Slip them back onto left needle and purl the two stitches together through back loops (Figure 2).

SHORT-ROW TOE AND HEEL CONSTRUCTIONThe toe and heel are constructed with short-rows that produce an hourglass shape. Each short-row begins with a yarnover that is instrumental in prevent-ing gaps. When the knit side is facing, work the yarnover in the usual manner, bringing yarn forward under needle then over the top to the back. When the purl side is facing, bring yarn to the back under needle, then over the top to the front as illustrated here. This forms a backward yarnover—the leading side of the loop is on the back of the needle.

Figure 2Figure 1

tain stripe pattern as you work yarnovers and decreases at each edge.

• Round begins at bottom of foot. To reduce the jog at the end of the round, take yarn being dropped over and under the new color, drawing the old color up and the new color down with a sharp tug before working ends in.

• Th e center bottom stitch, which marks the beginning of rounds, is worked out of pat-tern to disguise the jog where chart-ends meet.

• To make a longer sock, choose a band from the Leg chart and work this band also on foot. For greater foot circumference, work on larger needles but be sure to check gauge beforehand, to ensure a fi tting sock.

TOEWith smaller dpn, background color, waste yarn, and the invisible (provisional) method (see Glossary), CO 41 sts. Do not join; work

back and forth on 2 dpns. Next row: (RS) *K1 with background color, k1 with foreground color; rep from * to last st; do not work last st, turn. Row 1: (WS) Yo backward (see page 96), purl in colors as established to last st; do not work last st; turn. Row 2: (RS) Yo as usual, knit in patt to last st before yo, turn. Row 3: Yo backward, purl in patt to last st before yo, turn.Rep Rows 2 and 3 until 17 sts rem between yo’s. Join toe: Row 1: (RS) Yo as usual, knit in patt to yo, turn yo to standard st mount (so that right leg of st is leading) and k2tog (yo and next true st), turn.Row 2: (WS) Yo backward, purl in patt to yo, turn yo to standard st mount and ssp (see below), turn.Row 3: Yo as usual, knit in patt to yo (next 2 sts on left needle are yo’s), turn 2 yo’s to


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correct st mount, k3tog (2 yo’s with next true st), turn.Row 4: Yo backward, purl in patt to yo, turn 2 yo’s to correct st mount, sssp (see Stitch Guide), turn. Rep Rows 3 and 4 until only 1 yo rem at each end. The toe should now create a “cup,” with one top edge on the needle and the other top edge held on waste yarn. Re-move waste yarn, placing 41 freed sts onto 2 dpn for instep. You will now be working in the rnd. Next rnd: With RS facing and

toe background color, knit across fi rst dpn to yo, join yo to fi rst instep st with k2tog, knit across instep dpn to last st, join this last in-step st to yo on next needle with ssk—82 sts total. Knit 1 more rnd in background color, then knit fi rst 20 sts of sole again, ending at center bottom of foot. Place marker (pm) for beg of rnd. Beg with Row 1 of Foot chart, work bands in colors as directed for your sock (see Stitch Guide) through Row 55 of chart. See Notes about working beg and end of rnds.

HEELDiscontinue working in the rnd; work only on 41 sts of sole, leaving 41 sts of instep for later. Working back and forth on sole sts, work to end of sole sts in background color, then turn and purl 1 row (over 41 sts) in background color. Next row: (RS) *K1 with

Pair 1Pair 2

Pair 3

Pair 4

Pair 5 Pair 6 Pair 7

center st

band 1

band 2

band 3

band 4

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band 1 foreground

band 2 foreground

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background colorall bands


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background color, k1 with foreground color; rep from * 19 more times across sole sts; do not work last sole st, turn. Row 1: (WS) Yo backward, purl in patt to last st; do not work last st; turn. Row 2: (RS) Yo as usual, knit in patt to last st before yo, turn. Row 3: (WS) Yo backward, purl in patt to last st before yo, turn.Rep Rows 2 and 3 until 17 sts rem between yo’s. Join heel: Row 1: (RS) Yo as usual, knit in patt to yo, turn yo to standard st mount and k2tog (yo and next true st), turn.Row 2: (WS) Yo backward, purl in patt to yo, turn yo to standard st mount and ssp (yo and next true st, see box on page 105), turn.

Row 3: Yo as usual, knit in patt to yo (next 2 sts on left needle are yo’s) , turn 2 yo’s to correct st mount, k3tog (2 yo’s and next true st), turn.Row 4: Yo backward, purl in patt to yo (next 2 sts on left needle are yo’s), turn 2 yo’s to correct st mount, sssp (2 yo’s and next true st), turn.Rep Rows 3 and 4 until 1 yo rem at each end. Next rnd: With RS facing, knit across heel sts in background color to yo, join yo to fi rst instep st with k2tog, knit across instep sts to last instep st, join last instep st to yo on next needle with ssk—82 sts. Work 1 more rnd in background color, ending at center back of leg. Pm for beg of rnd.

LEG Beg with Row 1 of Leg chart, work bands in colors as directed for your sock through Row 71 of chart. Before beg 8th band, inc 1 st—83 sts. By working the 8th band on the st multiple plus 1 st, the diagonals lean to the left. To make the diagonals lean to the right, work the 8th band on the st multiple minus 1 st. Next rnd: With background color, *k1, p1; rep from * to end of rnd. Rep last rnd once more. Change to larger dpns and BO all sts in patt.

FINISHINGWith yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, weave in loose ends. Lightly steam block.


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Priscilla Gibson-Roberts is passionate about traditional knitting and spinning techniques and has written a number of books on the topic, including Knitting in the Old Way, Ethnic Socks & Stockings, and Simple Socks: Plain and Fancy.


ALGONQUIN SOCKS

G a y l e B u n n


Finished Size About 7½ (9)" foot circum-ference and 7¾ (9¼)" foot length. To fi t a child (woman). Yarn Brown Sheep Nature Spun Sport Weight (100% wool; 184 yd [168 m]/50 g; Sportweight #2 Fine): 1 ball each of 8 colors. Child’s version shown in #N04 blue knight (navy; MC), #N80 mountain purple (A), #N30 Nordic blue (medium blue), #109 spring green, #N17 French clay (orange), #N46 red fox, #308 sunburst gold, and #200 Bordeaux (burgundy). Adult version shown in #N46 red fox (MC), #308 sunburst gold (A), #N17 French clay (orange), #200 Bordeaux (burgundy), #N30 Nordic blue (medium blue), #N80 mountain purple, #109 spring green, and #N04 blue knight (navy). Note: 1 ball of each color is

suffi cient to make both pairs of socks shown. Needles Size 5 (3.75 mm): set of 4 double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge. Notions Marker (m); tapestry needle.Gauge 25 stitches and 30 rounds = 4" in St st charted patterns, worked in the round.

LEGWith MC, loosely CO 48 (60) sts. Arrange sts evenly on 3 dpn, place marker (pm), and join for working in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts. Rnd 1: *K2 with MC, k2 with A; rep from * around.Rnds 2–7 (9): *K2 with MC, p2 with A; rep from * around. With A, knit 2 rnds—piece measures 1 (1¼)" from CO. Child’s size only: Work Rnds 1–29 of Child’s Sock chart. On Rnd 30 of chart, knit with MC dec 3 sts evenly spaced—45 sts rem. Work Rnds 31–34 of chart. On Rnd 35 of chart, knit with MC inc 3 sts evenly spaced—48 sts. Work Rnds 36–42 of chart—piece measures about 6¾" from CO. Cut off yarn.Woman’s size only: Work Rnds 1–34 of Woman’s Sock chart. On Rnd 35 of chart, knit with MC dec 4 sts evenly spaced—56 sts rem. Work Rnds 36–42 of chart, then work Rnds 35–42 once more, this time without decreas-ing on Rnd 35—still 56 sts; piece measures about 8" from CO. Cut off yarn.

HEELSlip last 12 (14) sts of rnd onto one dpn, then slip fi rst 12 (14) sts of next rnd onto same needle—24 (28) heel sts on 1 dpn; rem 24 (28) sts will be worked later for instep (divide these sts evenly between 2 dpn). With RS facing, join MC to beg of sts on heel needle. Heel Flap: Work 24 (28) heel sts back and forth in rows as foll:Row 1: (RS) *K1, sl 1 as if to purl with yarn in back (pwise wyb); rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.Row 2: Purl.Rep Rows 1 and 2 rows until heel measures 1¾ (2)", ending with a WS row.

Turn heel: Work short-rows as foll:Row 1: (RS) K14 (16), ssk, k1, turn work.Row 2: (WS) Sl 1 pwise with yarn in front (wyf), p5, p2tog, p1, turn.Row 3: Sl 1 pwise wyb, knit to 1 st before gap made on previous row, ssk (1 st from each side of gap), k1, turn.Row 4: Sl 1 pwise wyf, purl to 1 st before gap made on previous row, p2tog (1 st from each side of gap), p1, turn. Rep Rows 3 and 4 until all heel sts have been worked, ending with a WS row and ending the last rep with ssk on Row 3, and p2tog on Row 4, if there are not enough sts to work the fi nal k1 or p1 after the dec—14 (16) sts rem. Shape Gusset: With MC and RS facing, knit across heel sts, then with the same needle (Needle 1) pick up and knit 13 (15) sts along selvedge of heel fl ap; with Needle 2, k24 (28) instep sts; with Needle 3, pick up and knit 13 (15) sts along other selvedge of heel fl ap, then knit the fi rst 7 (8) heel sts from Needle 1 again—64 (74) sts total: 20 (23) sts each on Needle 1 and Needle 3, 24 (28) sts on Needle 2. Rnd begins at center back heel.Rnd 2: On Needle 1, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; on Needle 2, knit; on Needle 3, k1, ssk, knit to end—2 sts dec’d. Rnd 3: Knit.Rep Rnds 2 and 3 seven (eight) more times—48 (56) sts rem; 12 (14) sts each on Needle 1 and Needle 3, 24 (28) sts on Needle 2.

FOOTWorking according to chart for your size, work Rnds 37–42 once, then rep Rnds 35–42 two (three) times. With MC, knit 1 rnd—foot measures about 6¼ (7½)" from back of heel. To customize foot length, work even with MC


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until foot measures 1½ (1¾)" less than desired fi nished length.

TOERnd 1: On Needle 1, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; on Needle 2, k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; on Needle 3, k1, ssk, knit to end of needle—4 sts dec’d.Rnd 2: Knit.Rep Rnds 1 and 2 fi ve (six) more times—24 (28) sts rem; 6 (7) sts each on Needle 1 and Needle 3, 12 (14) sts on Needle 2. Knit the sts from Needle 1 onto the end of Needle 3—12 (14) sts each on 2 needles.

FINISHINGWith yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, use the Kitchener st (see Glossary) to graft sts tog. Weave in loose ends. Block lightly.

Gayle Bunn has been a knitter since learning, at age six, from her grandmother. She has worked for numerous North American yarn companies and magazines.

This project was excerpted from Folk Style (Interweave, 2007).


A HOLIDAY STOCKING

N a n c y B u s h


Finished Size About 12" around top opening

green

gold

purple

medium blue

orange

red

burgundy

navy

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Child’s Sock

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Woman’s Sock

and 12" from top of leg to bottom of heelYarn Dale of Norway Heilo (100% wool, 109 yd [100 m]/50 g; Sportweight #2 Fine): #4137 red, #0017 natural, #7562 green.Needles Sizes 3 (3.25 mm) and 2 (2.75 mm): set of 5 double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge. Gauge 12 sts and 14 rnds = 2" in circular, patterned stockinette stitch on larger needles before blocking

NOTES

• Leave long tails when casting on and when starting a new color near the top, so the tails may later be used for mak-ing the braided hanging loop.

LEGWith green and larger needles, CO 92 sts, using the double-start cast-on (see Glos-sary) over one needle only. Divide sts onto 4 needles (23 sts on each needle.) Join into a rnd, being careful not to twist sts. This


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join is the seam line at center back leg and marks the beginning of all future rnds. Work Kihnu Vits (see box below), using red and natural; these 2 rnds count as the fi rst 2 rnds of chart. Work next 10 rnds of chart as indicated for cuff , working entire 36-st chart 2 times, then working fi rst 20 sts once more. Work 2 rnds of Kihnu Vits again, using green and natural for next 2 rnds of chart. Work the foll rnd of chart in red, dec 2 sts (1 at end of Needle 1 and 1 at beg of Needle 4)—90 sts rem. For Star motif section of chart, work entire 36-st chart twice, then work fi rst 18 sts of chart once more. Work in pattern from Star section of chart until leg measures 10½", and you have completed 3 reps of the Star pattern, plus the 4-rnd border shown at top of chart.Next Rnd: Knit with red, dec 8 sts evenly—82 sts rem.Adjust sts so there are 17 sts each on Needles 1 and 4, and 24 sts each on Needles 2 and 3.

HEELWith red, k17 on Needle 1, turn, p34, turn. These 34 sts form the heel fl ap. Th e rem 48 sts are left on Needles 2 and 4 to work later for the instep.Row 1: (RS) *Sl 1, k33; rep from *.Row 2: (WS) *Sl 1, p33; rep from *.Rep the last 2 rows 7 more times for a total of 8 chain sts at each edge of heel fl ap.Turn heel:Row 1: (RS) Sl 1, k18, ssk, k1, turn.Row 2: (WS) Sl 1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn.Row 3: Sl 1, k to within 1 st of the gap, ssk, k1, turn.Row 4: Sl 1, p to within 1 st of the gap, p2tog, p1, turn.Rep Rows 3 and 4 until all heel sts are worked—20 heel sts.Heel gussets: With RS facing knit 20 heel sts, pick up and knit 8 chain selvedge sts along side of heel fl ap, knit across 48 instep sts, with an empty needle, pick up and knit 8 chain selvedge sts along other side of heel fl ap, knit fi rst 10 sts from heel needle again—84 sts. Adjust sts if necessary so there are 18 sts each on Needles 1 and 4, and 24 sts each on Needles 2 and 3.Rnd 1: On Needle 1, work to last 3 sts,

k2tog, k1; on Needles 2 and 3, knit across instep sts; on Needle 4, k1, ssk, knit to end—2 sts dec.Rnd 2: Work even in St st.Rep the last 2 rnds once more—80 sts total: 16 sts each on Needles 1 and 4.

FOOTContinue even until foot measures 2½" from center-back heel. Adjust sts so there are 20 sts on each needle.

TOEDec Rnd 1: *K6, k2tog; rep from *—70 sts.Work 6 rnds even.Dec Rnd 2: *K5, k2tog; rep from *—60 sts.Work 5 rnds even.

Dec Rnd 3: *K4, k2tog; rep from *—50 sts.Work 4 rnds even.Dec Rnd 4: *K3, k2tog; rep from *—40 sts.Work 3 rnds even.Dec Rnd 5: *K2, k2tog; rep from *—30 sts.Work 2 rnds even.Dec Rnd 6: *K1, k2tog; rep from *—20 sts.Work 1 rnd even.Dec Rnd 7: *K2tog; rep from *—10 sts rem. Break yarn, thread tail through rem sts, pull snug to close end of toe, and fasten off .

FINISHINGUsing the tails that rem at the cuff , and adding more strands as needed, make a braid as foll: Divide strands into 3 groups of 3 threads each, 1 of each color. Braid the yarn

#0020Natural

#7562Green

purl with appropri-ate color

pattern repeat

#4136Red

Cuff

Work twice

KIHNU VITS

Kihnu is an Estonian island. Vits is Estonian for “hoop” or “band.” In this case, it is a band that circles the leg of a sock.Rnd 1: *Knit one contrasting color, knit one main color; repeat from *.Rnd 2: Bring both colors to the front as if to purl, *purl the contrasting color stitch with main color and purl the main color stitch with contrasting color, bringing each color under the other every time you change. Repeat from *.

Holiday Stocking


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into a piece about 4" long. Secure end of braid with an overhand knot. Attach end of braid securely to the base of the braid inside the cuff edge to form a hanging loop. Weave in all ends. Block under a damp towel.



ANNETRELAC SOCKS

S a n d y B e a d l e


Finished Size 7¼" foot circumference and 9½" from back of heel to tip of toe. To fi t a woman’s U.S. shoe size 9.Yarn Schaefer Anne (60% superwash merino, 25% mohair, 15% nylon; 560 yd [512 m]/113 g; Fingering #1 Super Fine): red/blue/green variegated, 1 skein.Needles Size 1 (2.25 mm): set of 4 double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Marker (m); tapestry needle.Gauge 20 sts and 25 rows = 2" in St st.

LEGCO 72 sts. Distribute sts over 3 dpn, place marker (pm), and join for working in the rnd. Work in 1×1 (k1, p1) rib for 2". Knit 1 rnd, dec 24 sts evenly spaced—48 sts rem. Base triangles: *K2, turn, sl 1, p1, turn, sl 1, k2, turn, sl 1, p2, turn, sl 1, k3, turn, sl 1, p3, turn, sl 1, k4, turn, sl 1, p4, turn, sl 1, k5 (do not turn); rep from * 7 more times—8 triangles, 6 sts each. Turn so WS is facing. First Tier

(right-slanting blocks): (WS) Sl 1, p5, **pick up and purl 6 sts down the side of the triangle, *turn, sl 1, k5, turn, sl 1, p4, p2tog (1 st from current triangle and 1 st from next triangle); rep from * 5 more times—all sts of adjacent triangle have been used; rep from ** 7 more times—each space between triangles has been fi lled with a block—turn. Second Tier (left-slanting blocks): (RS) Sl 1, k5, **pick up and knit 6 sts down left side of the block, *turn, sl 1, p5, turn, sl 1, k4, ssk (1 st from cur-rent block and 1 st from next block); rep from * 5 more times—all sts of adjacent block have been used; rep from ** 7 more times—each space between right-slanting blocks has been fi lled with a left-slanting block. Turn so WS is facing. *Rep First Tier (picking up sts along side of left-slanting blocks, rather than triangles), then rep Second Tier; rep from * 2 more times or to desired length. Rep First Tier again—9 tiers of blocks total. Finishing triangles: (RS) Sl 1, k5, *pick up and knit 6 sts down the left side of block, turn, sl 1, p5, turn, sl 1, k4, ssk (1 st from current block and 1 st from next block), turn, sl 1, p4, turn, sl 1, k3, ssk, turn, sl 1, p3, turn, sl 1, k2, ssk, turn, sl 1, p2, turn, sl 1, k1, ssk, turn, sl 1, p1, turn, sl 1, ssk, turn, sl 1, turn, ssk; rep from * 7 more times—each space between right-slanting blocks has been fi lled with a triangle; 48 sts still on needles. Knit 1 rnd, inc 24 sts evenly spaced—72 sts.

HEELDistribute sts onto 3 dpn as foll: Needle 1: 36 sts (heel sts); Needles 2 and 3: 18 sts each (instep sts). Yarn should be positioned to knit across Needle 1. Work back and forth on 36 sts of Needle 1 only as foll:Row 1: (RS) *Sl 1, k1; rep from * to end, turn.Row 2: (WS) Sl 1, purl to end, turn.Rep last 2 rows 14 more times, then rep Row 1 once more—31 rows total. Turn heel:Row 1: (WS) P20, p2tog, p1, turn.Row 2: (RS) Sl 1, k5, k2tog, k1, turn.Row 3: Sl 1, purl to 1 st before gap, p2tog, p1, turn.Row 4: Sl 1, knit to 1 st before gap, k2tog, k1, turn.Rep Rows 3 and 4 fi ve more times—22 heel sts rem. Next row: (WS) Sl 1, purl to 1 st before gap, p2tog, turn. Next row: (RS) Sl 1, knit to 1 st before gap, k2tog, turn—20 heel sts rem. Gusset: With an empty needle (now Needle 1)

and RS facing, pick up and knit 18 sts down the side of heel fl ap; sl 36 instep sts onto one needle (now Needle 2); knit the instep sts; with an empty needle (now Needle 3), pick up and knit 18 sts along the other side of heel fl ap, then k10 from needle holding heel sts; sl rem 10 heel sts to Needle 1—92 sts total: 28 sts each on Needles 1 and 3, 36 sts on Needle 2. Center of heel is now beg of rnd.Rnd 1: Knit.Rnd 2: Needle 1: knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; Needle 2: knit; Needle 3: k1, ssk, knit to end—2 sts dec’d.Rep Rnds 1 and 2 nine more times—72 sts rem.

FOOTWork even in St st (knit every rnd) until foot measures 7½" from back of heel or 2" less than desired fi nished length.

TOERnd 1: Needle 1: knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; Needle 2: k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; Needle 3: k1, ssk, knit to end—4 sts dec’d.Rnd 2: Knit.Rep Rnds 1 and 2 twelve more times—20 sts rem. Knit sts from Needle 1 onto Needle 3. Break yarn, leaving a 12" tail. With tail threaded on a tapestry needle, use Kitchener st (see Glossary) to graft toe. Weave in loose ends.

Sandy Beadle loves knitting socks, entrelac, and hand-dyed yarn. She currently creates custom sweater patterns for a local yarn shop in Berwyn, Pennsylvania.



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TRAVELER’S STOCKINGS

N a n c y B u s h


Finished Size Foot measurement: 7½" around and 9" (23 cm) long. To fi t average woman’s foot.Yarn Koigu Premium Merino (100% wool; 176 yd [161 m]/50 g; Fingering #1 Super Fine): #2340 sage green, 3 skeins. (Also shown in #2171 denim blue and #2128 dark lavender.)Needles Size 0 (2 mm): set of 5 double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Marker (m); tapestry needle.Gauge 18 sts and 28 rnds = 2" in St st worked in the round.

LEGCO 80 sts over 2 needles held parallel. Remove extra needle. Arrange sts onto 4 dpn so that there are 20 sts on each needle. Using the crossover method shown on page 83, join, being careful not to twist sts. Knit 1 rnd. Purl 1 rnd. Knit 1 rnd. Beg patt:Rnd 1: *K3, yo, k1, yo, k3, sl 1, k2tog, psso; rep from *.Rnd 2: Knit.Work Rnds 1 and 2 four more times, for a total of 10 rnds. Note: In working this patt, adjust sts on needles as necessary to work decs. Th is is especially important at the end of Rnd 2, when you should place the fi rst st of the next rnd [on Needle 1] back to the end of Needle 4 to cont patt as established. Adjust sts if necessary so there are 20 on each needle. Purl 1 rnd, dec 2 sts evenly spaced (p2tog at end of Needle 2 and Needle 4)—78 sts rem. Work through Rnd 35 of Sock Back and Sock Front charts, noting that the rnd

begs at the right side of the sock leg, and beg each rnd with the sock back. Purl 1 rnd, keeping zigzag patts as established (i.e., p34 back-of-leg sts, p1, work zigzag patt over 4 sts, p1, p32 front sts, p1, zigzag patt over 4 sts, p1)—34 sts on sock back; 44 sts on sock front. Shape leg:Rnd 1: K34, p1, zigzag patt over 4 sts, p1, k32, p1, zigzag patt over 4 sts, p1.Rnd 2: K34, p1, zigzag patt over 4 sts, p1, ssk, k28, k2tog, p1, zigzag patt over 4 sts, p1—2 sts dec’d.Rnds 3–7: K34, p1, zigzag patt over 4 sts, p1, k30, p1, zigzag patt over 4 sts, p1.Work Rnds 2–7 a total of 5 times—68 sts

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zigzagzigzag

Sock Front

knit

purl

knit through back loop

right twist: k2tog and leave on needle, knit fi rst st again, slip both sts off needle

left twist: knit second st tbl, knit fi rst st, slip both sts off needle

k2tog

ssk


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rem. Cont in St st, keeping 6-st zigzag patt as established, until leg measures 8" or desired total length to heel.

HEELHeel fl ap: *Sl 1, k1; rep from * across 34 sts, turn. Sl 1, p33. Th ese 34 sts form the heel fl ap. Th e rem 34 sts are for the instep and will be worked later. Cont working the last 2 rows back and forth on the 34 heel sts for a total of 34 rows (17 chain sts at each edge), ending with a WS row. Turn heel: K19, ssk, k1, turn. Sl 1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn.Row 1: (RS) Sl 1, knit to 1 st from gap, ssk, k1, turn.Row 2: Sl 1, purl to 1 st from gap, p2tog, p1.Rep Rows 1 and 2 until all heel sts have been worked—20 sts rem. Shape gussets: K20 heel sts, with empty needle, pick up and knit 17 sts along right side of heel fl ap, work held instep sts (keeping 6-st zigzag patt each side as established), pick up and knit 17 sts along left side of heel fl ap, k10 from back of heel—88 sts total: 27 sts each on Needles 1 and 4, 17 sts each on Needles 2 and 3. On next rnd, work to last 3 sts on Needle 1, k2tog, k1, work instep sts as established, k1, ssk at beg of Needle 4, work to end. Work 1 rnd even, keeping sts as established. Rep the last 2 rnds until there are 17 sts on each of the back needles (Needles 1 and 4)—68 sts total.

Sock Back

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1

FOOTCont as established until foot measures 2" less than desired fi nished length. Work all sts in St st for ½".

TOE*Work to last 2 sts on needle, k2tog; rep from * to end of rnd—4 sts dec’d. Work 1 rnd even. Rep these 2 rnds until there are 8 sts on each needle. Th en work dec rnd only until 2 sts rem on each needle (8 sts total). Break yarn, thread tail through rem sts, pull snug, and fasten off .

FINISHINGWeave in loose ends. Block on sock blockers or under a damp towel.



BELLS & WHISTLES SOCKS

M o n a S c h m i d t


Finished Size 8" foot circumference and 9" long from back of heel to tip of toe. To fi t a woman’s U.S. shoe size 9.Yarn Reynolds Whiskey (100% wool; 195 yd [178 m]/50 g; Sportweight #2 Fine): #98 lavender, 2 balls. Yarn distributed by JCA.Needles Size 2 (2.75 mm): set of 5 double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Markers (m); cable needle (cn); tapestry needle.Gauge 16 sts and 22 rnds = 2" in St st worked in the rnd.

LEGCO 68 sts. Divide sts so there are 17 sts on each of 4 needles. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts.Rnd 1: *P1, k2, p3, k5, p3, k2, p1; rep from * to end of rnd.Rep Rnd 1 eleven more times—12 rnds total. Work Rnds 1–20 of Lace A chart three times, then work Rnds 1–18 again. Work Rnds 1 and 2 of Lace B chart—64 sts rem.

HEELWorking on Needles 1 and 2 only (32 sts), work Rnds 3–14 of Lace B chart. Note: On WS rows, always knit the fi rst and last st of heel fl ap. Next row: (RS) Knit. Next row: (WS) K1, purl to last st, k1. Rep last 2 rows 5 more times. Turn heel: Cont working across 32 sts of heel only. Row 1: (RS) K18, ssk, k1, turn.Row 2: (WS) Sl 1 pwise, p5, p2tog, p1, turn.


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Row 3: Sl 1 pwise, knit to 1 st before gap, ssk, k1, turn.Row 4: Sl 1 pwise, purl to 1 st before gap, p2tog, p1, turn.Rep Rows 3 and 4 fi ve more times—18 sts rem. Gusset: Redistribute heel sts if nec-essary so there are 9 sts on Needle 1 and 9 sts on Needle 4. K9 sts of Needle 4; rnd now beg with Needle 1, at center of heel. Rnd 1: Needle 1: k9, pick up and knit 15 sts along right side of heel fl ap; Needle 2: work across in patt; Needle 3: work 16 sts in patt, pick up and knit 15 sts along left side of heel fl ap; Needle 4: knit, then slip 15 new sts from Needle 3 onto end of Needle 4—80 sts total: 24 sts each on Needles 1 and 4, 16 sts each on Needles 2 and 3.Rnd 2: Needle 1: knit; Needles 2 and 3: cont in patt; Needle 4: knit.Rnd 3: Needle 1: knit to last 2 sts, k2tog; Needles 2 and 3: cont in patt; Needle 4: ssk, knit to end—2 sts dec’d.Rep Rnds 2 and 3 seven more times and at the same time, fi nish Lace B chart on Needles 2 and 3, then work instep in St st—64 sts rem.

FOOT Cont in St st until foot measures 7¼" from back of heel, or 1¾" less than total desired length of foot.

TOERnd 1: *K2, p1, knit to last 2 sts on nee-

dle, p2tog; rep from * for rem 3 needles—60 sts rem. Even-numbered rnds: Knit.Rnd 3: *K3, p1, knit to last 2 sts on needle, p2tog; rep from * for rem 3 needles—56 sts rem.Rnd 5: *K4, p1, knit to last 2 sts on needle, p2tog; rep from * for rem 3 needles—52 sts rem.Rnd 7: *K5, p1, knit to last 2 sts on needle, p2tog; rep from * for rem 3 needles—48 sts rem.Rnd 9: *K6, p1, knit to last 2 sts on needle, p2tog; rep from * for rem 3 needles—44 sts rem.Rnd 11: *K7, p1, knit to last 2 sts on needle, p2tog; rep from * for rem 3 needles—40 sts rem.Rnd 13: *Knit to last 2 sts on needle, p2tog; rep from * for rem 3 needles—36 sts rem.Rep Rnd 13 seven more times—8 sts rem. Break yarn, leaving an 8" tail.

FINISHINGWith tail threaded on a tapestry needle, draw tail through rem sts, pull tight, and secure to WS of sock. Weave in loose ends. Block lightly.

Mona Schmidt lives in Montreal, Quebec, and is the associate director of JCA. Visit her blog www.knitstricken.blogspot.com.


Lace A

19

17

15

13

11

9

7

5

3

1

Lace B

13

11

9

7

5

3

1

k on RS; p on WS

p on RS; k on WS

yo

k2tog

ssk




k3tog

p2tog

pattern repeat


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WISHBONE SOCKS

N a n c y B u s h


Finished Size Leg, 8" to top of heel fl ap; foot, 8¾" from back of heel to tip of toe, 7¾" in circumference; woman’s medium.Yarn Louet Gems Fingering Weight (100% merino wool yarn; 185 yards [169 m]/50 g skein; Fingering #1 Super Fine): #50 Sage, 2 skeins.Needles Size 1 (2.25 mm): set of 5 double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Tapestry needle.Gauge 16 stitches and 24 rounds = 2" in St st.

Stitch GuideP2sso: Slip two stitches knitwise, knit 1, pass 2 slipped stitches over the knitted stitch.

Wishbone Pattern: (8-st rep)Rnd 1: P1, ssk, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, k2tog.Rnd 2: P1, k7.Rnds 3, 5, and 7: Rep Rnd 1.Rnds 4, 6, and 8: Rep Rnd 2.Rnd 9: K1, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo.Rnd 10: Knit.Rnd 11: K2, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1.Rnd 12: Knit.Rnd 13: K3, yo, sl 2 as if to k2tog, k1, p2sso, yo, k2.Rnd 14: Knit.Rep Rnds 1–14 for patt.

LEGWith the thumb thread doubled, CO 64 sts, using a double-start cast-on (see Glossary). Divide sts evenly onto 4 needles, placing 16 sts on each needle. Being careful not to twist

k

p

yo

k2tog

ssk

sl 2 as if to k2tog, k1, p2sso

pattern repeat

13

11

9

7

5

3

1

Wishbone

the sts, join into a circle. Knit 1 rnd, purl 1 rnd, knit 1 rnd.Work 14 rnds of wishbone patt 7 times (see Stitch Guide), working according to written instructions or chart. On Rnd 14 of last patt rep, inc 1 st at the end of Needle 3—65 sts total. Leg should measure about 8" from CO.

HEELKnit 16 sts of Needle 1. Turn work. Sl 1, p31, turn—32 sts on heel needle and 33 sts held for the instep (these instep sts will not be worked while you work the heel).Row 1: (RS) *Sl 1, k1; rep from * 15 more times, turn.Row 2: Sl 1, p31, turn.Rep these 2 rows 15 more times—16 chain sts at each edge of fl ap. Turn Heel:Row 1: (RS) *Sl 1, k1; rep from * 9 more times, ssk, turn.Row 2: Sl 1, p8, p2tog, turn.Row 3: Sl 1, *sl 1, k1; rep from * 3 more times, ssk, turn.Row 4: Sl 1, p8, p2tog, turn.Rep Rows 3 and 4 nine more times—10 sts rem on heel needle.Gusset: Knit 10 heel sts. With an empty needle, pick up and knit 16 sts down right side of heel fl ap. Work across 33 instep sts, keeping in patt as established, purling the last st on Needle 3 (this is the st you inc before beginning the heel fl ap), to create a mirror image of the instep patt; purl it on Rnds 1–8 of patt, and knit it on Rnds 9–14 of patt). With an empty needle, pick up and knit 16 sts up left side of heel fl ap, then k5 from heel needle—75 sts total: 21 sts on Needle 1, 33 sts divided on Needles 2 and 3, and 21 sts on Needle 4. Next rnd: Needle 1, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; Needles 2 and 3, work in patt

as established; Needle 4, k1, ssk, knit to end of rnd—2 sts dec. Work next rnd even, without dec and keeping in patt. Rep these 2 rnds 4 more times—65 sts rem: 16 sts on Needle 1, 33 sts divided on Needles 2 and 3, and 16 sts on Needle 4.

FOOTContinue in patt as established until foot measures 6¼", or 2½" less than desired length, ending with Rnd 13 of patt. On next rnd, knit to last 2 sts of Needle 3, k2tog, knit to end of rnd—64 sts rem; 16 sts on each needle. Work 4 rnds in stockinette st.

TOEDec rnd: Needle 1, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; Needle 2, k1, ssk, knit to end of needle; Needle 3, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; Needle 4, k1, ssk, knit to end of rnd—4 sts dec. Work 1 rnd even. Rep these 2 rnds 7 more times—32 sts rem: 8 sts on each needle. Rep only the dec rnd 6 times—8 sts rem: 2 sts on each needle. Break yarn and, using the tapestry needle, join the sts on Needles 1 and 2 to the sts on Needles 3 and 4 using Kitchener stitch (see Glossary).

FINISHINGWeave in loose ends. Block under a damp towel or on sock blockers.




10192009094804


The Grand Plan Mitten ChartHere is a chart for knitting mittens in six

diff erent sizes, child to adult, and four diff erent gauges. Th ese mittens don’t have annoying little holes between the thumb and the rest of the fingers (a problem with a lot of handknitted mittens) because balanced make-one increases are worked on either side of the thumb gore.

Finished Size 5½ (6¼, 7, 7¾, 8½, 9½)" hand circumference. To fi t 2 yr (4 yr, 8 yr, 12 yr, woman’s, man’s) hand.Yarn Brown Sheep Handpaint Originals (70% mohair, 30% wool; 88 yd [80 m]/50 g), Brown Sheep Lamb’s Pride Bulky (85% wool, 15% mohair; 125 yd [114 m]/100 g), Brown

Sheep Nature Spun Worsted (100% wool; 245 yd [224 m]/100 g), Brown Sheep Top of the Lamb Sport (100% wool; 154 yd [141 m]/50 g), Brown Sheep Nature Spun Fingering (100% wool; 310 yd [283 m]/50 g). Fifty grams of yarn is suffi cient to make a pair of mittens in any of the fi rst four sizes; 100 grams are needed for the largest two sizes. Needles Bulky—size 9 (5.5 mm); worsted—size 7 (4.5 mm); sport—size 5 (3.75 mm); fi ngering—size 3 (3.25 mm): set of 4 double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle sizes if neces-sary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Marker (m); tapestry needle.

All mittens above shown in Brown Sheep yarn. Left to right: Lamb’s Pride Bulky at 5 sts/inch. Handpaint Originals at 4 sts/inch, Top of the Lamb Sport at 6 sts/inch, Nature Spun Worsted at 5 sts/inch, Handpaint Originals at 4 sts/inch, Top of the Lamb Sport at 6 sts/inch, Nature Spun Fingering at 7 sts/inch, Handpaint Originals at 4 sts/inch. For more Grand Plan charts, use Ann Budd’s The Knitter’s Handy Book of Patterns ($24.95; Interweave).

Just in time to knit a slew of mit-tens for the December gift-giving season (a grand plan that some-times fails) and to actually fi nish them (a happy success!).

A N N B U D D

To use this chartFollow the numbers that match your gauge (in parentheses at left edge of chart) and size. For extra-thick mittens, work bulky yarn at 4–5 stitches to the inch, worsted yarn at 6, or sport yarn at 7, adjusting needle size accordingly.

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Work even until piece measures to top of little fi nger or about:

1 1 1¼ 1½ 1¾ 2

less than desired total length; piece should measure from beg of St st about:

3 3½ 4 5½ 5¾ 6½

Total sts:

(4) 21 25 27 31 33 37

(5) 27 31 35 39 43 47

(6) 33 37 43 47 51 57

(7) 37 45 49 55 61 67

ThumbPlace held thumb sts onto 3 dpn, pick up and knit 1 st over gap, and join:

(4) 8 10 12 14 16 18

(5) 10 12 14 16 18 20

(6) 12 14 16 20 22 24

(7) 14 16 20 22 24 28

sts total.

Work k2, p2 rib for:

1½ 2 2¼ 2½ 3 3 "

On next rnd, change to St st and inc evenly spaced:

(4) 1 1 3 3 1 1

(5) 3 3 3 3 3 3

(6) 1 1 3 3 3 1

(7) 1 1 1 3 1 3

Total sts:

(4) 21 25 27 31 33 37

(5) 27 31 35 39 43 47

(6) 33 37 43 47 51 57

(7) 37 45 49 55 61 67

Rep Rnds 2 and 3 until there are:

(4) 7 9 11 13 15 17

(5) 9 11 13 15 17 19

(6) 11 13 15 19 21 23

(7) 13 15 19 21 23 27

thumb sts bet markers.

Place thumb sts on Length of waste yarn. Using the backward-loop method (see Glossary), CO 1 st over gap, rejoin, and knit to end.

Work even until thumb measures to middle of thumbnail or about (from pick-up rnd):

½ 1 1¼ 1¼ 1¾ 1¾

Shape topRnd 1: (4) [K1 (1, 2, 3, 3, 4), k2tog] 2 times,

k0 (2, 2, 2, 4, 4), k2tog.

(5) [K1 (2, 3, 3, 4, 5), k2tog] 2 times,

k2 (2, 2, 4, 4, 4), k2tog.

(6) [K2 (3, 3, 5, 5, 6), k2tog] 2 times,

k2 (2, 4, 4, 6, 6), k2tog.

(7) [K3 (3, 5, 5, 6, 7), k2tog] 2 times,

k2 (4, 4, 6, 6, 8), k2tog.

Rnd 2: Knit.

Dec 3 sts (working 1 less knit st bet decs) every other rnd in this manner:

(4) 0 1 1 1 2 2

(5) 1 1 2 2 2 2

(6) 1 1 2 2 3 3

(7) 1 1 2 2 3 3

more time(s).

Then dec 3 sts every rnd in this manner:

(4) 0 0 0 1 0 1

(5) 0 0 0 1 1 2

(6) 0 1 1 2 1 2

(7) 1 1 2 2 2 3

time(s).

Shape gussetRnd 1: Knit across:

(4) 10 12 13 15 16 18

(5) 13 15 17 19 21 23

(6) 16 18 21 23 25 28

(7) 18 22 24 27 30 33

place marker (pm), M1L (see Glossary), k1, M1R, pm, knit to end. Slip markers on all rnds.Rnd 2: Knit.Rnd 3: Knit to m, M1L, knit to next m, M1R, knit to end.

Total sts:

(4) 5 4 6 5 7 6

(5) 4 6 5 4 6 5

(6) 6 5 4 5 7 6

(7) 5 7 5 7 6 7

Draw tail through rem sts, pull tight, and fasten to inside. Weave in loose ends.

Approximate fi nished circumference:

5½ 6¼ 7 7¾ 8½ 9¾ "

Knit even for:

(4) 2

(5) 3

(6) 3

(7) 4

On next rnd, dec evenly:

(4) 1 1 3 3 1 1

(5) 3 3 3 3 3 3

(6) 1 1 3 3 3 1

(7) 1 1 1 3 1 3

Total sts:

(4) 20 24 24 28 32 36

(5) 24 28 32 36 40 44

(6) 32 36 40 44 48 56

(7) 36 44 48 52 60 64

Dec 4 sts (working 1 less knit st bet decs) every other rnd in this manner until:

(4) 12 16 16 16 16 20

(5) 16 20 20 20 20 24

(6) 24 24 28 28 28 28

(7) 24 32 32 28 36 36sts rem.

Cast on:

(4) 20 24 24 28 32 36

(5) 24 28 32 36 40 44

(6) 32 36 40 44 48 56

(7) 36 44 48 52 60 64


Then dec 4 sts every rnd until:

(4) 4 8 8 8 8 8

(5) 8 8 8 8 8 8

(6) 8 8 8 8 8 8

(7) 8 8 8 8 8 8

sts rem. Break off yarn, thread tail through rem sts, pull tight, fasten to inside.

sts.

sts.

sts.

" "

sts.

more rnds.

"

Shape topRnd 1: (4) *K3 (4, 4, 5, 6, 7), k2tog; rep from *.

(5) *K4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9), k2tog; rep from *.

(6) *K6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 12), k2tog; rep from *.

(7) *K7 (9, 10, 11, 13, 14), k2tog; rep from *.

Rnd 2: Knit.

KA_116-117_MittChrt.indd 117KA_116-117_MittChrt.indd 117 10/19/09 9:46:16 AM10/19/09 9:46:16 AM

10192009094804


Wear for warmth. Wear for fashion. Knit cuffs to wear under a jacket. Knit mitts to

wear over sleeves or as sleeves.

MITTS and GLOVES

SUBWAY MITTENSby Colleen MeagherYARN Cascade 220Page 124

KA_118-132-MGs.indd 118KA_118-132-MGs.indd 118 10/19/09 9:48:34 AM10/19/09 9:48:34 AM

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CORNFLOWER MITTSby Deborah NewtonYARN Jade Sapphire Mongolian Cashmere 6-plyPage 124


10192009095254


ALPACA GLOVES by Leslie ScanlonYARN Classic Elite Inca Alpaca and RomancePage 126

MOSAIC MITTSby Sandy CushmanYARN Plymouth Galway WorstedPage 125

KEEP THEM WARM WRISTLETS by Susan StrawnYARN Knit Picks Gloss Sock Yarn, distributed by Crafts AmericanaPage 127


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THE POINT ABOUT CUFFSby Vicki SquareYARN Filatura di Crosa Baby Kid Extra, distributed by Tahki Stacy CharlesPage 128


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JE SUIS JOLIE MITTSby Clara ParkesYARN Tahki Stacy Charles JoliePage 128


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LAYERED TURKISH GLOVESby Mari Lynn PatrickYARN Alchemy Yarns MonarchPage 129

KNIT CUFFS WITH A CABLE TWISTby Deborah Pulliam

YARN Dale of Norway Baby UllPage 131

FINGERLESS MITTSby Deborah NewtonYARN Filatura di Crosa Aiko, distributed by Tahki Stacy CharlesPage 131


10192009095257


SUBWAY MITTENS

C o l l e e n M e a g h e r


Finished Size 8" hand circumference and 10½" long from cuff CO to tip of fi ngers. To fi t a woman’s medium to large hand. Yarn Cascade 220 (100% wool; 220 yd [201 m]/100 g; Worsted #4 Medium): #4008 maroon, 1 skein. Needles Sizes 5 (3.5 mm) and 7 (4.5 mm): double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Markers (m); one ¾" button; tapestry needle.Gauge 20 sts and 28 rows = 4" in St st in the rnd on larger needles.

MITTENCuff: With smaller dpn, CO 40 sts. Place marker (pm) and join for working in the rnd. Next rnd: *K1, p1; rep from * around. Next rnd: *K1 through back loop (k1tbl), p1; rep from * around. Rep last 2 rows until piece measures 3" from CO. Hand: Change to larger dpn. Knit 1 rnd. Thumb gusset: K19, pm, M1L (see Glossary), k1, M1R (see Glossary), pm, knit to end—2 sts inc’d. Cont in St st, inc 2 sts between m in this manner every 3 rows 4 more times, then every 4 rows 1 time—13 gusset sts. Next rnd: Knit to fi rst gusset m, remove m, place 13 gusset sts on a piece of waste yarn, use the backward-loop method (see Glossary) to CO 1 st over gap, remove second m, knit to end of rnd—40 sts rem for hand. Work even in St st in the rnd for 6", or until knitting reaches top of pinky fi nger. Shape top: *K8, k2tog; rep from * 3 more times—36 sts rem. Knit 1 rnd. Next rnd: *K7, k2tog; rep from * 3 more times—32

sts rem. Knit 1 rnd. Next rnd: *K6, k2tog; rep from * 3 more times—28 sts rem. Knit 1 rnd. Cont to dec every other rnd in this manner until 8 sts rem. Break yarn and draw through rem sts. Secure tail to WS of mitten. Thumb: Transfer 13 held sts to larger dpn, distributing them evenly over 3 needles. Join yarn, pick up and knit 1 st in gap above thumb sts, then knit around all sts and join for working in the rnd—14 sts total. Work in St st until thumb measures 3½" or desired length to top of thumb. Shape thumb:Rnd 1: K5, [k2tog] 2 times, knit to end—12 sts rem.Rnd 2: *Ssk, k2, k2tog; rep from * 1 time—8 sts rem.Rnd 3: Knit.Rnd 4: K3, [k2tog] 2 times, k1—6 sts rem.Rnd 5: K1, [k2tog] 2 times, k1—4 sts rem.Break yarn and thread through rem sts. Secure tail to WS.

FINISHINGTransit card pocket: Measure the size of your transit card. Pocket shown was designed for a 2⅛" × 3⅜" card. If needed, adjust pocket directions to fi t your card. Pocket: With larger dpn, CO 12 sts. Work in St st in rows for 3½". BO all sts. Flap: With larger dpn, CO 14 sts. Next row: (RS) Knit. Next row: (WS) K2, p10, k2. Rep last 2 rows 4 more times. Cont garter st edges and dec as foll:Row 1: (RS) K2, ssk, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2—2 sts dec’d.Row 2: (WS) K2, purl to last 2 sts, k2.

Rep last 2 rows 2 more times—8 sts rem. Buttonhole:Row 1: (RS) K2, BO 4 sts, k2.Row 2: (WS) K2, use the backward-loop method to CO 4 sts, k2.Work 1 WS row in patt. BO all sts. Sew bottom edge of pocket to top of hand of right mitten. Use mattress st (see Glossary) to sew sides of pocket in place. Sew fl ap to mitten about ½" above top of pocket. Sew button to pocket opposite buttonhole. Weave in loose ends.

Colleen Meagher designed these mittens for Boston’s transit system pass. More recently she’s moved to New York City, where she can enjoy much longer subway rides.


CORNFLOWER MITTS

D e b o r a h N e w t o n


Finished Size 8" hand circumference and 8" long. Yarn Jade Sapphire Mongolian Cashmere 6-ply (100% Cashmere, 150 yd [137 m]/55 g; Worsted #4 Medium): #014 hydrangea.Needles Size 8 (5 mm): set of 5 double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Cable needle (cn); tapestry needle.Gauge 24 sts and 28 rnds = 4" in rib patt worked in the rnd.

Stitch Guide C2B: Slip 2 sts onto cn and hold in back, k2, k2 from cn.C2F: Slip 2 sts onto cn and hold in front, k2, k2 from cn.


10192009095257


RIGHT MITTCO 48 sts. Divide sts evenly over 4 dpn. Place marker (pm) for beg of rnd and join for work-ing in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts.Rnds 1, 2, and 3: *K1, p1; rep from * to end of rnd.Even-Numbered Rnds 4–18: P1, [k2, p2, k4, p2] 2 times, *k2, p2; rep from * to last st, p1.Rnd 5: P1, [k2, p2, C2B (see Stitch Guide), p2] 2 times, *k2, p2; rep from * to last st, p1.Rnds 7, 9, and 11: P1, [k2, p2, k2, yo, k2tog, p2] 2 times, *k2, p2; rep from * to last st, p1.Rnd 13: P1, [k2, p2, C2F (see Stitch Guide), p2] 2 times, *k2, p2; rep from * to last st, p1.Rnds 15, 17, and 19: P1, [k2, p2, ssk, yo, k2, p2] 2 times, *k2, p2; rep from * to last st, p1.Rep Rows 4–19 two more times and at the same time beg thumb gusset on Rnd 13 of the second rep as foll: Rnd 13: Work 27 sts in patt, pm, p1, M1 (see Glossary), p1, pm, work in patt to end.Rnd 14: Work in patt to m, sl m, p1, k1, p1, sl m, work in patt to end. Rnd 15: Work in patt to m, sl m, purl into front and knit into back of next st, k1, knit into front and purl into back of next st, sl m, work to end in patt—5 sts between m.Rnd 16: Work in patt to m, sl m, p1, k3, p1, sl m, work in patt to end.Cont in this manner, inc 1 st after fi rst m and 1 st before second m every other rnd, and working sts just inside m as purl sts and rest of gusset as knit sts, until there are 17 sts between m, ending with Rnd 12 of third

rep of patt. Next rnd: (Rnd 13 of patt) Work in patt to m, remove m, p1, place next 15 sts on holder, p1, remove m, work in patt to end. Complete last rep of patt. Next rnd: *K1, p1; rep from * to end. Rep last row once more. BO all sts in rib. Thumb: Divide 15 thumb gusset sts over 3 dpn. At beg of rnd, pick up and knit 2 sts in palm at base of thumb—17 sts. Join for working in the rnd. Work in St st (knit every rnd) until thumb measures ¾" or desired length. Next rnd: Knit, dec 1 st—16 sts rem. Work 2 rnds in k1, p1 rib. BO all sts in rib.

LEFT MITTWork same as right mitt, but place thumb gusset as foll: On Rnd 13 of the 2nd rep, work 43 sts in patt, pm, p1, M1, p1, pm, work in patt to end. Work gusset and remainder of mitt as for right mitt.

FINISHING With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, weave in loose ends.

Deborah Newton lives in Providence, Rhode Island, and has just completed a book of cabled sweater patterns for Leisure Arts.


MOSAIC MITTS

S a n d y C u s h m a n


Finished Size About 8" hand circumfer-ence and 10" long. To fi t an adult.Yarn Plymouth Galway Worsted (100% wool; 230 yd [210 m]/100 g; Worsted #4 Medium): #127 sage (A), #178 teal (B), and #117 fuchsia (C), 1 ball each. Also shown in #173 red (A), #92 purple (B) and #117 fuchsia (C).Needles Size 4 (3.5 mm): set of 5 double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.Notions Markers (m); tapestry needles; small amount of waste yarn.Gauge 24 sts and 32 rows = 4" in slip-stitch patt, worked in the rnd.

NOTES

• Both mitts are worked the same.

• All slipped stitches are slipped as if to purl with yarn in back (wyb).

• Slip-Stitch chart Rnds 1, 2, 5, and 6 are worked with color A; Rnds 3, 4, 7, and 8 are worked with color C.

MITTCuff: With A, CO 40 sts. Distribute sts evenly onto 4 dpn, place marker (pm) before last st of rnd, and join for working in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts. Work k2, p2 rib for 1 rnd. Join B and work 2 rnds rib as established. Cont in rib, alternating 2 rnds each of A and B until a total of 11 stripes have been worked, ending having just completed 2 rnds of A—22 rnds total. With B, work 1 more rnd rib. Next rnd: *K5, M1 (see Glos-sary); rep from * 7 more times—48 sts.


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Slip Stitch

7

5

3

1 A

C

A

C

knit with A

sl 1 A wyb

knit with C

sl 1 C wyb

pattern repeat

Hand: With C, knit 1 rnd. Join A and work Slip-Stitch chart for 11 rnds, or un-til piece measures desired length to base of thumb. Shape gusset: Cont in patt as established, work 24 sts, pm, M1, work to end—49 sts. Next rnd: Work 25 sts, M1, pm, work to end—50 sts; 2 gusset sts between m. Work 1 rnd even in patt. Next rnd: Work in patt, inc 1 st after fi rst gusset m and inc 1 st before second gusset m—2 sts inc’d. Cont to inc 1 st each edge of gusset in this manner every other rnd, working gusset sts in striped St st (not slip-stitch patt), until there are 16 gusset sts between m. Place 16 gusset sts on waste yarn to work later for thumb, remove m, rejoin into a rnd, and cont working rem 48 hand sts in charted patt until piece measures 9" from CO edge. Top ribbing: Cut off C. Join B and knit 1 rnd. Work 1 rnd in k2, p2 rib, dec 8 sts evenly spaced as foll: *K2, p2, k2tog, k1, p2, k1, k2tog, p2, k2, p2tog, p1, k2, p1, p2tog; rep from * once more—40 sts rem. Cont in rib, work 2 rnds A then work 2 rnds B. With B, BO all sts. Thumb: Place 16 held gusset sts on 3 dpn and join for working in the rnd. *Knit 2 rnds C, then

knit 2 rnds A; rep from * until thumb mea-sures 1" or ½" less than desired total length. Change to B and knit 1 rnd. Work 3 rnds k2, p2 rib. BO all sts.

FINISHING Weave in loose ends. Block lightly.

Sandy Cushman designs knitwear from her mountain home in Durango, Colorado.

Project Photos: William Thuss

ALPACA GLOVES

L e s l i e S c a n l o n


Finished Size 6½ (7, 8)" hand circumfer-ence. To fi t a woman’s small (medium, large) hand.Yarn Classic Elite Inca Alpaca (100% alpaca; 109 yd [100 m]/50 g; Worsted #4 Medium): #1163 morning glory (pink; MC), 2 skeins. Classic Elite Romance (100% cashmere; 125 yd [114 m]/50 g): #10831 coral (CC), 1 ball. Needles Hand and fi ngers—size 3 (3.25 mm): set of 4 double-pointed (dpn). Cuff —size 6 (4 mm): set of 4 dpn. Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Markers (m); stitch holders or waste yarn; tapestry needle.Gauge 12½ sts and 16 rnds = 2" in St st worked in the rnd on smaller needles.

NOTES

• Both gloves are worked identically and can be worn on either hand.

GLOVESHand: With MC and smaller dpn, CO 41 (44, 50) sts. Divide sts as evenly as possible on 3 dpn, place marker (pm), and join for working in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts. Work even in St st (knit every rnd) until piece measures 1 (1¾, 2)" from CO. Thumb gusset: Knit into front and back of same st (k1f&b), k1, k1f&b, pm, knit to end of rnd—2 sts inc’d; 5 gusset sts between m. Knit 2 rnds even. Inc rnd: K1f&b, knit to 1 st before gusset m, k1f&b, knit to end—2 sts inc’d between m. Rep the last 3 rnds 3 (4, 5) more times—13 (15, 17) gusset sts between m; 51 (56, 64) sts total. Next rnd: Place 13 (15, 17) gusset sts on holder or waste yarn to be worked later for thumb, use the backward-loop method (see Glossary) to CO 3 sts over gap, knit to end of rnd—41 (44, 50) sts. Upper hand: Work even until piece measures 1¾ (2, 2¼)" from CO sts at top of thumb gusset. Little fi nger: Note: Th e fi ngers are worked one at a time, starting with the little fi nger; the remaining hand sts are placed on holders for the palm and back of hand. These sts will be transferred to the needles as they are needed for the other fi ngers. K16 (17, 19) and place sts just worked on holder or waste yarn, k9 (10, 12) sts for little fi nger, place rem 16 (17, 19) sts on holder or waste yarn. Use the backward-loop method to CO 3 sts at end of little fi nger sts—12 (13, 15) sts total for little fi nger. Distribute sts as evenly as possible on 3 dpn, pm, and join for working in the rnd. Work even until fi nger measures about 2 (2¼, 2½)", or


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about ¼" less than desired total length. Shape tip: [K2tog, k1] 4 (4, 5) times, k0 (1, 0)—8 (9, 10) sts rem. Next rnd: [K2tog] 4 (4, 5) times, k0 (1, 0)—4 (5, 5) sts rem. Cut yarn, thread tail on a tapestry needle, draw through rem sts 2 times, and fasten off to inside. Ring fi nger: Slip the next 5 (5, 6) sts from each holder onto a dpn—10 (10, 12) sts on 2 dpn. With RS facing, join yarn to beg of sts CO at base of little fi nger. Pick up and knit 3 sts at base of the little fi nger, k5 (5, 6) from dpn, use the backward-loop method to CO 3 sts, k5 (5, 6) from dpn—16 (16, 18) sts. Distribute sts as evenly as possible on 3 dpn. Pm and join for working in the rnd. Work even until fi nger measures about 2½ (2¾, 3)", or about ¼" less than desired total length. Shape tip: [K2tog, k1] 5 (5, 6) times, k1 (1, 0)—11 (11, 12) sts rem. Next rnd: [K2tog] 5 (5, 6) times, k1 (1, 0)—6 sts rem for all sizes. Finish as for little fi nger. Middle fi nger: Slip the next 5 (5, 6) sts from each holder onto a dpn. Join yarn to beg of sts CO at base of ring fi nger. Pick up and knit 3 sts at base of ring fi nger, k5 (5, 6) from dpn, use the backward-loop method to CO 4 sts, k5 (5, 6) from dpn—17 (17, 19) sts. Distribute sts as evenly as possible on 3 dpn. Pm and join for working in the rnd. Work even until fi nger measures 2¾ (3, 3¼)", or about ¼" less than desired total length. Shape tip: [K2tog, k1] 5 (5, 6) times, [k2tog] 1 (1, 0) time(s), k0 (0, 1)—11 (11, 13) sts rem. Next rnd: [K2tog] 5 (5, 6) times, k1 (1, 1)—6 (6, 7) sts rem. Finish as for little fi nger. Index fi nger: Slip rem 12 (14, 14) sts onto 2 dpn—6 (7, 7) sts on each needle. Join yarn to beg of sts CO at base of middle fi nger. Pick up and knit 4 sts from base of middle fi nger, k12 (14, 14)—16 (18, 18) sts. Distribute sts as evenly as possible on 3 dpn. Pm and join for working in the rnd. Work even until fi nger measures 2½ (2¾, 3)", or about ¼" less than desired total length. Shape tip: [K2tog, k1] 5 (6, 6) times, k1 (0, 0)—11 (12, 12) sts rem. Next rnd: [K2tog] 5 (5, 6) times, k1 (0, 0)—6 sts rem for all sizes. Finish as for little fi nger. Thumb: Place 13 (15, 17) held thumb sts on 2 dpn. With a third dpn, pick up and knit 3 sts from sts CO for thumb gap—16 (18, 20) sts. Distribute sts as evenly as possible on 3 dpn. Pm and join for working in the

rnd. Work even until thumb measures 2 (2¼, 2½)", or about ¼" less than desired total length. Shape tip: [K2tog, k1] 5 (6, 6) times, [k2tog] 0 (0, 1) time(s), k1 (0, 0)—11 (12, 13) sts rem. Next rnd: [K2tog] 5 (6, 6) times, k1 (0, 1)—6 (6, 7) sts rem. Finish as for little fi nger. Cuff: With larger dpn and CC, CO 17 (17, 19) sts. Work in rows as foll:Row 1: (RS) K2 (2, 3), slip 1 st purlwise with yarn in back, knit to end. Row 2: (WS) Purl.Rep Rows 1 and 2 until cuff measures 7 (7½, 8½)" from CO. Slip a third dpn into the base of each CO st to pick up 17 (17, 19) sts; these sts are just picked up without working them, not picked up and knitted. Fold the cuff in half with the RS of the fabric on the inside and WS facing you. Use the three-needle method (see Glossary) to BO the beg and end of cuff tog. The slipped st near the beg of the RS rows produces a slightly rolled fi nished edge that will be at the bottom of the glove when pieces are sewn tog.

FINISHINGPlace plain selvedge edge (without the rolled fi nish) of cuff and CO edge of glove together with RS of fabrics touching and BO cuff seam centered on the little fi nger. With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, sew CO edge of glove to selvedge of cuff . Weave in loose ends. Block lightly.

Leslie Scanlon lives and knits in Maine.


KEEP THEM WARM

WRISTLETSS u s a n S t r a w n

Skill Level Easy

Finished Size About 10½" long and 4" in circumference, relaxed; will stretch to fi t 8" circumference hand.Yarn Knit Picks Gloss Sock Yarn (70% me-rino wool, 30% silk yarn; 220 yd [201 m]/50 g; Fingering #1 Super Fine): #23872 woodland sage, 1 skein. Yarn distributed by Crafts Americana.Needles Size 2 (2.75 mm): set of 4 double-pointed (dpn). Adjust size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Tapestry needle.Gauge 26 sts and 25 rnds = 2" in k2, p2 rib, relaxed.

NOTES

• Rib-knitted in the round for a snug fi t without shaping, the wristlet is seamless with a thumb opening made by knitting back and forth for 2".

WRISTCO 156 sts. Divide sts evenly onto 3 needles. Being careful not to twist the sts, join into a circle. Knit 10 rnds. Next rnd: *K2tog, k1, pass k2tog over knit st; rep from * around—52 sts rem. Next rnd: *K2, p2; rep from * around. Work even in rib for 7". Thumb opening: K1. (Knitting 1 st will produce a thumb opening with a knit st bor-der on each side. Turn work. Working back and forth in rows, work in rib as established for 1½", ending with a RS row.

HAND With RS facing, join into a circle. Work


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in k2, p2 rib as established for 1½". Picot BO: BO 2 sts. *Sl 1 st back to left-hand needle; using knitted CO (insert right-hand needle into st on left-hand needle, draw yarn through but do not drop old st, place new st onto left-hand needle), CO 3 sts, BO 5 sts; rep from * until all sts are BO.

FINISHING Weave in loose ends.

Susan Strawn teaches classes about textiles at Dominican University in River Forest, Il-linois. She is the author of Knitting America: A Glorious Heritage from Warm Socks to High Art (Voyageur Press, 2007) and a member of PieceWork’s editorial advisory panel.


THE POINT ABOUT CUFFS

V i c k i S q u a r e

Skill Level Easy

Finished Size About 6" wrist circumfer-ence and 8" long. Ribbing at wrist will stretch to about 8" circumference.Yarn Filatura di Crosa Baby Kid Extra (80% mohair kid, 20% nylon; 268 yd [245 m]/25 g; Sportweight #2 Fine): #310

off white, 1 ball. Yarn distributed by Tahki Stacy Charles.Needles Size 6 (4 mm): set of 4 or 5 double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Tapestry needle.Gauge 24 sts and 19 rnds = 4" in lace patt worked in the rnd.

Stitch GuideLace Pattern: (multiple of 6 sts)Rnd 1: *K1, yo, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k1, yo; rep from * to end of rnd.Rnd 2: Knit. Rep Rnds 1 and 2 for patt.

CUFFLoosely CO 72 sts. Divide sts evenly onto 3 dpn (24 sts on each needle) and join for working in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts. Rep Rnds 1 and 2 of lace patt (see Stitch Guide) until piece measures 5½" from CO, ending with Rnd 2. Note: Be careful that you do not accidentally drop any yo that occurs at the end of a needle or at the end of the rnd. Dec rnd: *K2tog; rep from * to end of rnd—36 sts rem. Next rnd: *K2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd. Cont in k2, p2 rib as established until ribbed section measures 2½" and cuff measures about 8" from CO. Loosely BO all sts.

FINISHINGWeave in loose ends. Block lightly if desired as foll: Generously spritz inside and outside of lace portion with a fi ne mist. Lay cuff on iron-ing board or padded surface with scalloped edges of both layers aligned. Pin CO edge to about 7" wide, then pin out each scallop point, pulling gently downward to extend points and to expand and even out the lace patt. When scallop points have been pinned, coax the valley between pairs of points upward toward

the ribbing to exaggerate zigzag lower edge, and pin valleys in place. Allow upper section of lace cuff to narrow gradually to width of ribbing. Allow to air-dry completely before removing pins.

Vicki Square is the author of Knit Kimono, Folk Bags, Folk Hats, and that essential little book, The Knitter’s Companion, which she revised in 2006.



JE SUIS JOLIE MITTS

C l a r a P a r k e s


Finished Size 7" hand circumference and 9" long.Yarn Tahki Stacy Charles Jolie (70% angora, 30% wool; 108 yd [99 m]/25 g; Worsted #4 Medium): #5016 pale green, 1 skein.Needles Size 6 ( mm): set of 5 double-pointed needles. Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.Notions Stitch markers (m); tapestry needle; stitch holder; 2 beads (optional).Gauge 25 sts and 32 rows = 4" in rib patt in the rnd.

NOTES

• Mitts are worked in the round as a tube, with a gusset left open for the thumbs. After fi nishing the mitt, stitches are picked up around the thumb opening and worked for a short thumb.

• Use contrasting markers for thumb gus-


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set, to distinguish thumb markers from end-of-round marker.

MITTS (MAKE 2)CO 44 sts. Distribute sts onto 3 needles as foll: 16 sts each on 2 needles, 12 sts on 3rd needle. Place marker (pm) at end of sts. Join for work-ing in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts.Rnd 1: *K3, p1; rep from * to end of rnd. Rep Rnd 1 until piece measures 5½".

Thumb Gusset:Rnd 1: K3, pm, M1, k1, M1, pm, work in established rib to end. Sl m every rnd. Rnd 2: K3, knit all sts between m, work in rib to end.Rnd 3: K3, M1, knit to second m, M1, work in rib to end. Rep Rnds 2 and 3 until you have 13 sts between m. Rep Rnd 2 again. Next rnd: K3, use the backward-loop method to CO 5 sts, put the 13 sts between m on holder, work in rib to end. Helpful hint: A piece of smooth contrasting yarn is more fl exible for holding the sts. Next row: [K5, p1] 2 times, work in rib to end. Next row: K3, ssk, p1, k2tog, k3, p1, work in rib to end. Next row: [K4, p1] 2 times, work in rib to end. Next row: K2, ssk, p1, k2tog, k2, p1, work in rib to end. Next row: *K3, p1; rep from * to end. Cont in rib until piece measures 9" from CO. BO all sts. Thumb: Divide 13 sts from holder onto 2 double-pointed needles. With third needle, pick up and knit 5 sts across top of thumb opening. Knit 5 rnds. BO all sts.

FLOWER (OPTIONAL)CO 12 sts, leaving a 6" tail.Row 1: (RS) Knit into front and back loop of all sts—24 sts.Row 2: (WS) Purl. Rep Rows 1 and 2 two more times—96 sts.

BO all sts. Th e work will form a corkscrew. To form the rosette, simply pinch the inner cor-ner between thumb and forefi nger and rotate the work until you get the desired results. You can make it as tight or open as you like. To secure the rosette, thread the CO tail through a tapestry needle and pass the needle through all layers of the rosette, then secure it to the top of your mitt. Don’t tug the tail too tight. For extra detail, string a bead through the CO tail before securing it into the rosette. Be sure to choose a bead with a large enough hole to accommodate the yarn. Weave in ends.

Clara Parkes is the publisher of www.KnittersReview.com and author of The Knitter’s Book of Yarn and The Knitter’s Book of Wool (Potter Craft, 2007 and 2009, respectively). She frequently contributes to Interweave Knits and Twist Collective.


LAYERED TURKISH GLOVES

M a r i L y n n P a t r i c k

Skill Level Experienced

Finished Size 7 (7¾)" hand circumference; to fi t a woman’s medium (large) hand. Gloves shown measure 7¾".Yarn Alchemy Yarns Monarch (70% cashmere, 30% silk; 156 yds [143 m]/40 g; Fingering #1 Super Fine). #23E good earth (gray-green), #110M amber (gold), #58M Joshua tree (orange), #56E evergreen (dark green), #52E two rock (light brown), #09M pewter (silver), one ball each.Needles Size 2 (2.75 mm): straight and set of 4 double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

Notions Markers (m); tapestry needle.Gauge 32 sts and 44 rnds = 4" in St st.

Stitch GuideSk2p: Sl 2 sts individually kwise, k1, pass the 2 slipped sts over.

GLOVESCuff: With olive, CO 65 (73) sts onto 1 dpn. Divide sts onto 3 dpn so that there are 22 (24) sts each on Needles 1 and 3, and 21 (25) sts on Needle 2. Place marker (pm) and join, being careful not to twist sts. K1, *yo, k2, sk2p, k2, yo, k1; rep from * to end of rnd. Slip m on each rnd. Knit 1 rnd. On next rnd, dec 1 st on Needle 1 (2)—64 (72) sts rem: 21 (24) sts each on Needles 1 and 2, and 22 (24) sts on Needle 3. Knit 9 (7) rnds. Dec rnd: K30 (34), k2tog, pm, k30 (34), k2tog—62 (70) sts rem. [Knit 9 (7) rnds. Dec rnd: Knit to 2 sts before fi rst m, k2tog, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog] 3 (5) times—56 (60) sts rem. Work even until piece measures 5" from beg. Reposition sts if necessary so there are 19 (20) sts each on Needles 1 and 3, and 18 (20) sts on Needle 2. Thumb gore: Knit across sts of Needles 1 and 2, k4 sts of Needle 3 (15 [16] sts rem on Needle 3), pm, [k1f&b] 2 times, pm, knit to end of rnd—58 (62) sts. [Work 2 rnds even. Next rnd: Knit to fi rst m, k1f&b, knit to 1 st before next m, k1f&b, knit to end] 7 times—18 sts bet m; 72 (76) sts total. Knit 1 rnd. Next rnd: Knit to fi rst m, remove m, place 18 thumb sts onto a length of contrasting yarn, remove second m, using the backward-loop method (see Glossary), CO 1 st, pm, CO 1 st, rejoin and knit to end—56 (60) sts. Work even until piece measures about 4½ (5)" from beg of thumb gore, or desired length to base of fi ngers.

FINGERSIndex fi nger: Work to 8 sts before m at center of thumb, with separate needle k16, CO 2 sts (18 index fi nger sts), and sl rem 40 (44) sts to waste yarn to be worked later. Divide index fi nger sts evenly onto 3 dpn and join. Knit every rnd until fi nger measures 2¾ (3)", or ¼" less than desired total length. Dec for tip: [K2tog, k2] 4 times, k2tog—13 sts rem. Knit 1 rnd. K3, [k2tog] 5 times—8 sts rem. Break yarn, leaving a

KA_118-132-MGs.indd 129KA_118-132-MGs.indd 129 10/20/09 1:13:49 PM10/20/09 1:13:49 PM

10202009131443


10" tail. Thread tail onto tapestry needle and use Kitchener st (see Glossary) to graft rem sts tog. Middle fi nger: Sl 7 (8) sts for back of hand onto 1 dpn, knit these sts, pick up and knit 3 (2) sts at base of index fi nger, k7 (8) palm sts, CO 2 sts—19 (20) sts. Divide fi nger sts evenly onto 3 dpn and join. Knit every rnd until fi nger measures 3¼ (3½)". Dec for tip: K1 (2), [k2tog, k2] 4 times, k2tog—14 (15) sts rem. Knit 1 rnd. K1 (0), [k2tog, k1] 4 (5) times, k1 (0)—10 sts rem. Graft as for index fi nger. Ring fi nger: Sl 7 (8) sts from back of hand onto 1 dpn, knit these sts, pick up and knit 2 sts at base of middle fi nger, k7 palm sts, CO 2 sts—18 (19) sts. Divide fi nger sts evenly onto 3 dpn and join. Knit every rnd until fi nger measures 3 (3¼)" from beg. Dec for

tip: K0 (1), [k2tog, k2] 4 times, k2tog—13 (14) sts rem. Knit 1 rnd. K3 (2), [k2tog] 5 (6) times—8 sts rem. Graft as for index fi nger. Little fi nger: Sl 6 sts from back of hand onto 1 dpn, knit these sts, pick up and knit 2 sts at base of ring fi nger, k6 (7) palm sts—14 (15) sts. Divide fi nger sts evenly onto 3 dpn and join. Knit every rnd until fi nger measures 2¼ (2½)" from beg. Dec for tip: K1 (2), [k2tog, k2] 3 times, k1—11 (12) sts rem. Knit 1 rnd. [K2tog, k1] 3 (4) times, k2 (0)—8 sts rem. Graft as for other fi ngers. Thumb: Place 18 held thumb sts onto 2 dpn.Rnd 1: K18, with 3rd dpn, pick up and knit 8 sts at base of CO sts—26 sts. Place m and join.Rnd 2: Knit.Rnd 3: K18, k2, ssk, k2tog, k2—24 sts rem.Rnd 4: K18, k1, ssk, k2tog, k1—22 sts rem.

Rnd 5: K18, ssk, k2tog—20 sts rem.Arrange sts evenly on 3 dpn and knit every rnd until thumb measures 2½". Dec for tip: [K2, k2tog] 5 times—15 sts rem. Knit 1 rnd. [K2tog, k1] 5 times—10 sts. Graft as for other fi ngers.

OVER-GLOVESNote: The over-gloves are worked back and forth on straight needles in St st colorwork. Left over-glove: With dark green and straight needles, CO 68 sts. Knit 2 rows. Next row: (WS) K1 (edge st), purl to last st, k1 (edge st). Knitting the edge sts every row and beg with Row 1 as indicated for left glove, work center 66 sts according to Over-Glove chart through Row 14. Thumb gore: (Row 15 of chart): K1, work 29 sts as charted for palm,

55

53

51

49

47

45

43

41

39

37

35

33

31

29

27

25

23

21

19

17

15

13

11

9

7

5

3

1

beg right glove beg left glove

orange

dark green

gray green

gold

light brown

silver

thumb gore, see chart at right

k1f&b on RS;p1f&b on WS

Over-Glove


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pm, work 2 sts according to Row 15 of Thumb Gore chart, pm, work to end of rnd according to Over-Glove chart, k1. On Row 16 of charts, cont as established to m, sl m, [p1f&b] 2 times, sl m, work to end. Cont working as charted, inc 1 st inside thumb gore m as shown on Thumb Gore chart through Row 38—18 thumb gore sts. On Row 39 of chart, work to 18 thumb gore sts, sl these sts onto contrasting yarn (remove m), using the backward-loop method (see Glossary), CO 2 sts over gap, work in patt to end—68 sts. Cont as charted through Row 55. With dark green, knit 1 (WS) row. BO all sts kwise. Right over-glove: Work as for left over-glove, but beg chart as indicated for right glove so that palm and back-of-hand patts mirror left over-glove.

FINISHINGBlock lightly. With yarn threaded on a tapes-try needle, sew side seam. Thumb trim: Sl 18 held thumb sts onto 2 dpn, with a third dpn, pick up and knit 6 sts at base of CO sts—24 sts. Join. Purl 1 rnd. BO all sts pwise. Weave in loose ends.

Mari Lynn Patrick has been working in the handknitting business for thirty-six years.


KNIT CUFFS WITH A CABLE TWIST

D e b o r a h P u l l i a m


Finished size (unstretched): 5¾" long and 6" in circumference.Yarn Dale of Norway Baby Ull (100% super-wash wool, 191 yd [175 m]/50 g; Fingering #1 Super Fine): #2016 yellow, 1 ball. Needles Size 3 (3.25 mm).Notions Cable needle (cn), size B/2 crochet hook.Gauge About 9½ sts = 1" in cable patt.

Stitch GuideFour-Stitch Cable: Place next 2 sts on cn, and hold them in the front of your work. Knit the following 2 sts, then knit the 2 sts from cn.

CUFFSCO 56 sts. Join, being careful not to twist sts. Cuff is worked entirely in the rnd.Rnds 1–4: *K2, p1, k4, p1, rep from * around.Rnd 5: *K2, p1, work four-stitch cable (see Stitch Guide), p1, rep from * around.Rnds 6–10: Rep Rnd 1.Rnd 11: Rep Rnd 5.Rep Rnds 6–11 fi ve more times, then work Rnds 1–4 once more—45 rnds completed.BO loosely in pattern. Rep for second cuff .

FINISHINGWork crocheted scalloped edging as follows (see Glossary for crochet instructions):Join yarn to CO edge of cuff in the center of a 2-st knit column. Using the crochet hook, *Work 1 sc in the center of a 2-st knit column, ch 1, work 7 dc in the center of a 4-st cable column, ch 1; rep from * around, ending with a sl st in the fi rst sc worked. Cut yarn and fasten off last st. Rep for BO edge of same cuff , then work scal-lops on both ends of second cuff . Weave in ends.

The late Deborah Pulliam was PieceWork’s contributing historian.


FINGERLESS MITTS

D e b o r a h N e w t o n

Skill Level IntermediateFinished Size About 8" hand circumfer-ence and 10" long.Yarn Filatura di Crosa Aiko (80% cash-mere, 20% polyamide; 63 yd [57 m]/25 g; Worsted #4 Medium): #40 fuchsia, 3 balls. Yarn distributed by Tahki Stacy Charles. Needles Hand—size 9 (5.5 mm): straight. Thumb—size 8 (5 mm): set of 4 double-pointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if neces-sary to obtain the correct gauge. Notions Markers (m); cable needle (cn); tapestry needle.Gauge 16 sts and 24 rows = 4" in k2, p2 rib on larger needles.

Stitch GuideCable Panel: (worked over 13 sts)Row 1: (RS) P2, k9, p2.Rows 2, 4, 6, and 8: K2, p9, k2.Row 3: P2, k3, slip 3 sts onto cn and hold in front, k3, k3 from cn, p2. Row 5: P2, k9, p2. Row 7: P2, slip 3 sts onto cn and hold in back, k3, k3 from cn, k3, p2. Rep Rows 1–8 for patt.

K2, P2 Ribbing: (multiple of 4 sts + 2)Row 1: (RS) K2, *p2, k2; rep from *.Row 2: P2, *k2, p2; rep from *.Rep Rows 1 and 2 for patt.

MITTSRight mitt: With larger needles, CO 41

37

35

33

31

29

27

25

23

21

19

17

15

Thumb Gore


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sts. Set-up row: (WS) P2, k1, *p1, k1; rep from * to last 2 sts, p2. Cont in rib as established for 2 more rows. Next row: (RS) K2, p2, k2, place marker (pm), work cable panel (see Stitch Guide) over next 13 sts, pm, work k2, p2 rib to end. Slip markers (sl m) every rnd. Cont in patt as established until piece measures 4" from CO, ending with a WS row. Wrist ribbing: (RS) K2, p2, k2, sl m, cont cable panel as established over 13 sts, sl m, k2, p2, k2, *p1, k1; rep from * to last 4 sts, p2, k2. Cont as established, working k1, p1 rib over 12 wrist sts, cable panel over 13 sts, and k2, p2 rib over rem sts, until k1, p1 rib at wrist measures 2", ending with a WS row. Resume main patt: (RS) K2, p2, k2, sl m, work cable panel over 13 sts, sl m, work k2, p2 rib over rem 22 sts. Cont in patt as established until glove measures 9" from CO, ending with a WS row. Thumb

opening: (RS) Keeping in patt as established, work 28 sts, place the last 5 sts worked onto a piece of waste yarn to be worked later for thumb, work to end. Next row: (WS) Keeping in patt, work to thumb gap, use the backward-loop method (see Glossary) to CO 5 sts over gap, work to end. Upper hand: Work 4 rows in patt, ending with a WS row. Work in k1, p1 rib for 3 rows. BO all sts.

Left mitt: Work as for right mitt, reversing placement of cable, wrist ribbing, and thumb opening. To reverse placement of cable, work in k2, p2 rib over 22 sts, pm, work cable panel over next 13 sts, pm, k2, p2, k2. To reverse placement of wrist ribbing, k2, p2, *k1, p1; rep from * 5 more times, work in patt as estab-lished to end. To reverse thumb opening, keep-ing in patt as established, work 18 sts, place last 5 sts worked onto a piece of waste yarn to be worked later for thumb, work to end.

CABLES

FINISHINGWith yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, sew side seam. Thumb: With RS facing, place 5 held thumb sts onto dpn. Join yarn and knit these 5 sts, then pick up and knit 2 sts in corner, with another dpn pick up and knit 5 sts at base of CO sts, with another dpn pick up and knit 2 sts in other corner—14 sts total. Arrange sts as evenly as possible on 3 dpn. Pm and join for working in the rnd. Work in k1, p1 rib until piece measures 1" from pick-up. BO all sts. Weave in loose ends. Block lightly.

Deborah Newton lives in Providence, Rhode Island, and has just completed a book of cabled sweater patterns for Leisure Arts.


Figure 2

Figure 3

Figure 4

Cables are made by changing the order of stitches on your needle to create a twisted, ropelike appearance. In other words, this means working a group of stitches in a given row out of sequence. To do this, you’ll need a cable needle as a temporary stitch holder. A cable needle is a short double-pointed needle that can be shaped straight, straight with a dip in it, or like a U. Th e style of cable needle to use is a matter of personal preference.

So here’s how you work a cable; the example is a six-stitch cable. Typically, an even-numbered group of knit stitches is set off by one or more purl stitches on either side.

Step 1: The pattern will tell you how many stitches the cable has, the rows over which the cable is worked, and how often the cable is repeated. When you get to the cable row, work the stitch pattern until you get to the six cable stitches.

Step 2: Slip three stitches from the left needle onto the cable needle and hold these stitches in front or in back (Figure 1). Th e

pattern will tell you whether you hold the stitches to the front or the back (the front or back placement determines the direction the cable will twist).

Step 3: Knit the next three stitches from the left needle to the right needle (Figure 2).

Step 4: Then, working from your cable needle, knit the three stitches, in order, onto your right needle (Figure 3). Continue to work across the row following your pattern.

Step 5: On rows between cable twists, work stitches as they appear (knit the knits and purl the purls) unless the pattern tells you otherwise. It will also indicate the number of rows over which the cable is worked. Fewer rows between twists create a more pro-nounced cable; more rows create a more relaxed cable (Figure 4).

Figure 1


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glossar y

beg beginning; begin; begins bet between BO bind off CC contrasting color cm centimeter(s) cn cable needle CO cast on cont continue(s); continuing dec(s) decrease(s); decreasing dpn double-pointed needle(s) foll following; follows g gram(s) inc increase(s); increasing k knit k1f&b knit into front and back of

same st k2tog knit two stitches together kwise knitwise LC left cross m(s) marker(s) MC main color mm millimeter(s) M1 make one (increase) p purl p1f&b purl into front and back of

same st p2tog purl two stitches together patt(s) pattern(s) pm place marker psso pass slipped stitch over p2sso pass two slipped stitches

over pwise purlwise RC right cross rem remain(s); remaining rep repeat; repeating rev St st reverse stockinette stitch rib ribbing rnd(s) round(s) RS right side rev sc reverse single crochet sc single crochet sk skip sl slip sl st slip stitch (sl 1 st pwise

unless otherwise indicated) ssk slip 1 kwise, slip 1 kwise,

k2 sl sts tog tbl (decrease) ssp slip 1 kwise, slip 1 kwise,

p2 sl sts tog tbl (decrease) st(s) stitch(es) St st stockinette stitch tbl through back loop tog together WS wrong side wyb with yarn in back wyf with yarn in front yo yarn over * repeat starting point

(i.e., repeat from *) * * repeat all instructions

between asterisks ( ) alternate measurements

and/or instructions [ ] instructions that are to be

worked as a group a specifi ed number of times

ABBREVIATIONS Knitting GaugeTo check gauge, cast on thirty to forty stitches using recommended needle size. Work in pat-tern stitch until piece measures at least 4" (10 cm) from cast-on edge. Remove swatch from needles or bind off loosely and lay swatch on flat surface. Place a ruler over swatch and count number of stitches across and number of rows down (including fractions of stitches and rows) in 4" (10 cm). Repeat two or three times on diff erent areas of swatch to confi rm measurements. If you have more stitches and rows than called for in instructions, use larger needles; if you have fewer, use smaller needles. Repeat until gauge is correct.

Reading ChartsUnless otherwise indicated, read charts from the bottom up. On right-side rows, read charts from right to left. On wrong-side rows, read charts from left to right. When knitting in the round, read charts from right to left for all rounds.

Use a Ruler to Measure GaugeTh is illustration shows a gauge of 6 stitches to the inch. For the most accurate results, mea-sure the gauge over 4" and divide by four to get the number of stitches per inch.

*Loop working yarn and place it on needle backward so that it doesn’t unwind. Repeat from *.

Backward-Loop Cast-On

Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3

Knit into a stitch and leave it on the needle (Figure 1). Knit through the back loop of the same stitch (Figure 2). Slip both stitches off the needle (Figure 3).

Bar Increase (K1f&b)

Leaving a long tail (about ½" to 1" for each stitch to be cast on), make a slipknot and place on right needle. Place thumb and index fi nger of left hand between yarn ends so that work-ing yarn is around index fi nger and tail end is around thumb. Secure ends with your other fi ngers and hold palm upward, making a V of yarn (Figure 1). Bring needle up through loop on thumb (Figure 2), grab fi rst strand around index fi nger with needle, and go back down through loop on thumb (Fig-ure 3). Drop loop off thumb and, placing thumb back in V confi guration, tighten resulting stitch on needle (Figure 4).

Figure 2

Figure 4Figure 3

Figure 1

Continental (Long-Tail) Cast-On

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Mattress Stitch SeamWith RS of knitting facing, use threaded needle to pick up one bar between fi rst two stitches on one piece (Figure 1), then correspond-ing bar plus the bar above it on other piece (Figure 2). *Pick up next two bars on fi rst piece, then next two bars on other (Figure 3). Repeat from * to end of seam, fi nishing by picking up last bar (or pair of bars) at the top of fi rst piece.

Figure 3Figure 1 Figure 2

Double-Start Cast-OnFor a double cast-on, take two ends of yarn, either from two separate balls of yarn or one end from the outside and one from the inside of a single ball, and cast on holding both yarns together. When you’ve cast on the desired number of stitches, break off one end of yarn, leaving a tail for weaving in later, and continue knitting as usual with the other end. Th is cast-on is a variation of the continental (long-tail) cast-on. It makes a decorative edge that results in a thread running in front of two cast-on stitches. Make a slipknot and place it on the needle, leaving a long tail; the slipknot counts as the fi rst “regular” cast-on stitch. Place the thumb and index fi nger of left hand between the yarn ends. Secure with your other fi ngers, and hold palm upward, making a V of yarn (Figure 1). *Release the yarn from around your thumb and rewrap it in the opposite direction, so the yarn coming from the needle is in front of the thumb. Insert needle tip down into the reversed thumb loop, then over the strand around the index fi n-ger, and back up through the reversed thumb loop (Figure 2). Drop loop off thumb, place thumb back in original V confi guration, and tighten stitch on needle. Cast on one stitch using the conventional long-tail cast-on method, without reversing the thumb loop. Repeat from *, alternating one reversed thumb loop stitch with one regular long-tail cast-on stitch until you have the required number of stitches on the needle (Figure 3).

Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3

Step 1: Bring threaded needle through front stitch as if to purl and leave stitch on needle.Step 2: Bring threaded needle through back stitch as if to knit and leave stitch on needle.Step 3: Bring threaded needle through fi rst front stitch as if to knit and slip this stitch off needle. Bring threaded needle through next front stitch as if to purl and leave stitch on needle.Step 4: Bring threaded needle through fi rst back stitch as if to purl (as illustrated), slip this stitch off , bring needle through next back stitch as if to knit, leave this stitch on needle.Repeat Steps 3 and 4 until no stitches remain on needles.

Kitchener Stitch

I-CordWith double-pointed needle, cast on desired number of stitches. *Without turning the needle, slide the stitches to other end of the needle, pull the yarn around the back, and knit the stitches as usual; repeat from * for desired length.

Raised (M1) Increases

With left needle tip, lift strand between needles from back to front (Figure 1). Knit lifted loop through the front (Figure 2).

Right Slant (M1R)

Figure 1 Figure 2

Figure 1 Figure 2

Left Slant (M1L) and Standard M1 With left needle tip, lift strand between needles from front to back (Figure 1). Knit lifted loop through the back (Figure 2).

Running StitchWorking small straight stitches, pass the threaded needle over one knitted stitch and under the next to form a dashed line. Th e stitches can be worked in equal or varying lengths, horizontally, vertically, or diagonally.

Invisible (Provisional) Cast-OnPlace a loose slipknot on needle held in your right hand. Hold waste yarn next to slipknot and around left thumb; hold working yarn over left index fi nger. *Bring needle forward under waste yarn, over working yarn, grab a loop of working yarn (Figure 1), then bring needle to the front, over both yarns, and grab a second loop (Figure 2). Repeat from *. When you’re ready to work in the opposite direction, pick out waste yarn to expose live stitches.

Figure 1

Figure 2


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glossar y

Sssk Double DecreaseSlip three stitches knitwise one at a time. Insert point of left needle

into front of three slipped stitches and knit them together through back loops with right needle—three stitches reduced to one.

Work to turn point, slip next stitch purlwise to right needle. Bring yarn to front (Figure 1). Slip same stitch back to left needle (Figure 2). Turn work and bring yarn in position for next stitch, wrapping the stitch as you do so. Note: Hide wraps in a knit stitch when right side of piece is worked in a knit stitch. Leave wrap if the purl stitch shows on right side. Hide wraps as follows: Knit stitch: On right side, work to just before wrapped stitch. Insert right needle from front, under the wrap from bottom up, and then into wrapped stitch as usual. Knit them together, making sure new stitch comes out under wrap. Purl stitch: On wrong side, work to just before wrapped stitch. Insert right needle from back, under wrap from bottom up, and put on left needle. Purl them together.

Figure 2

Figure 1

Short-Rows: Wrapping a Stitch

Holding yarn in front, slip two stitches knitwise one at a time onto right needle (Figure 1). Slip them back onto left needle and purl the two stitches together through back loops (Figure 2).

Ssp Decrease

Figure 1 Figure 2

Place stitches to be joined onto two separate needles. Hold them with right sides of knitting facing together. Insert a third needle into fi rst stitch on each of the other two needles and knit them together as one stitch. *Knit next stitch on each needle the same way. Pass fi rst stitch over second stitch. Repeat from * until one stitch remains on third needle. Cut yarn and pull tail through last stitch.

Three-Needle Bind-Off

Crochet Chain (ch)

Make a slipknot on hook. Yarn over hook and draw it through loop of slipknot. Repeat, drawing yarn through the last loop formed.

Slip Stitch Crochet (sl st)

Insert hook into stitch, yarn over hook and draw loop through stitch and loop on hook.

Treble Crochet (tr)

*Wrap yarn around hook two times, insert hook into a stitch, yarn over and pull a loop through (four loops on hook; Figure 1), yarn over and draw it through two loops (Figure 2), yarn over and draw it through the next two loops, yarn over and draw it through the remaining two loops (Figure 3). Repeat from *.

Figure 2

Figure 3

Figure 1

Figure 3

Figure 1 Figure 2

Double Crochet (dc)*Yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over and pull up loop (three loops on hook; Figure 1), yarn over and draw through two loops (Figure 2), yarn over and draw through remaining two loops (Figure 3); repeat from *.

Figure 1 Figure 2

Single Crochet (sc)

With waste yarn and crochet hook, make a loose chain of about four stitches more than you need to cast on. With needle, working yarn, and beginning two stitches from end of chain, pick up and knit one stitch through the back loop of each crochet chain (Figure 1) for desired number of stitches. Work the piece as desired, and when you’re ready to work in the opposite direction, pull out the crochet chain to expose live stitches (Figure 2).

Figure 1 Figure 2

Crochet Chain (Provisional) Cast-On

Insert hook into a stitch, yarn over hook and draw a loop through stitch, yarn over hook (Figure 1) and draw it through both loops on hook (Figure 2).


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sources for suppl ies

UNITED STATES YARN SOURCES

Alchemy Yarns, (707) 823-3276; www.alchemyyarns.com.

Blue Sky Alpacas, (763) 753-5815; www.blueskyalpacas.com.

Brown Sheep Co., (800) 826-9136; www.brownsheep.com.

Buff alo Gold, (817) 992-8220; www.buff alogold.net.

Cascade Yarns, www.cascadeyarns.com.

Classic Elite Yarns, (978) 453-2837; www.classiceliteyarns.com.

Crafts Americana/Knit Picks, (800) 574-1323; www.knitpicks.com.

Crystal Palace Yarns, (510) 237-9988; www.crystalpalaceyarns.com.

Dale of Norway, www.dale.no.

Fiesta Yarns, (505) 892-5008; www.fi estayarns.com.

Green Mountain Spinnery, (800) 321-9665; www.spinnery.com.

Halcyon Yarn, (800) 341-0282; www.halcyonyarn.com.

Jade Sapphire, (866) 857-3897; [email protected]; www.jadesapphire.com.

JaggerSpun, www.jaggeryarn.com.

Karabella Yarns, (800) 550-0898; www.karabellayarns.com.

Knit One, Crochet Too, (207) 892-9625; www.knitonecrochettoo.com.

Knitting Fever/Sirdar, (516) 546-3600; www.knittingfever.com. In Canada:

Diamond Yarn.

Lorna’s Laces, (773) 935-3803; www.lornaslaces.net.

Mountain Colors Yarns, (406) 961-1900; www.mountaincolors.com.

Muench Yarns Inc./GGH, (800) 733-9276; www.muenchyarns.com. In Canada:

Oberlyn Yarns.

Nordic Fiber Arts/Rauma, (603) 868-1196; www.nordicfi berarts.com.

Plymouth Yarn Co., (215) 788-0459; www.plymouthyarn.com.

Schaefer Yarn Co., (607) 532-9452; www.schaeferyarn.com.

Shokay, www.shokay.com.

Tahki Stacy Charles Inc./Filatura di Crosa, (800) 338-YARN;

www.tahkistacycharles.com.

T&C Imports/Frog Tree, (508) 385-8826; [email protected].

Westminster Fibers/Nashua Handknits/Rowan/Regia,

www.westminsterfi bers.com. In Canada: Diamond Yarn.

CANADIAN YARN SOURCES

Diamond Yarn, www.diamondyarn.com.

JCA/Reynolds, (978) 597-8794; www.jcacrafts.com.

Koigu Wool Designs, www.koigu.com.

Louet North America, (613) 925-4502; www.louet.com.

Oberlyn Yarns, www.oberlyn.ca.

This DVD is for your private

home viewing only. It is not

authorized for any other use.

©Interweave 2009.

All rights reserved.

Classic to Creative

Knit Cableswith Kathy Zimmerman

Running time: 65:51 minutes

Visit knittingdaily.com/go/workshopzimmerman

for free pattern downloads from this workshop.

W O R K S H O P

.com

$19.95 Available online and at your local yarn shop interweavestore.com

DVDs

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http://www.interweavestore.com


premierec lass i f ieds

ACCESSORIES

YARN

YARNS YARNS

ACCESSORIES YARN

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Timeless TotesTimeless Totes

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Great yarn

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Amazing Threads (MN) . . . . . . . 21

Arnhild's Knitting Studio . . . . . .137

Bag Smith, The . . . . . . . . . . . . . .137

Blue Sky Alpacas . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Classic Elite Yarns . . . . . . . . . . . . bc

Denise Interchangeable Knitting Needles . . . . . . . . . . 21

Elann.com Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Enchanted Knoll Farm . . . . . . . .137

Halcyon Yarn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Interweave . . . . . . . 7, 19, 23, 25, 39, . . . . . . . . . 41, 45, 77, 80, 136, ibc

Knitting Central . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Lisa Souza Knitwear and Dyeworks . . . . . . . . . . . . .137

Lorna's Laces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Make One Yarn Studio . . . . . . . . . 7

MissBabs: Hand-Dyed Fiber Goods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Mountain Colors Yarns . . . . . . . . . 7

Paradise Fibers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Pick Up Sticks. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Plymouth Yarn Co. . . . . . . . . . . . ifc

Purrfectly Catchy Designs . . . . .137

RubyVegas Designs . . . . . . . . . .137

Simply Socks Yarn Company . . . . 7

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Yarn Workshop . . . . . . . . . . . . . .137

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yarn shop director y

A L A B A M A

In the Making–Birminghamwww.shopinthemaking.com

Beautiful yarns & fabrics! Unique patterns and friendly staff! Next to Starbucks! 3114 Heights Village (877) 298-1309

Knit In Time–Hueytownwww.knitntime.com

Come learn the art at our unique and friendly yarn shop!1292 Hueytown Rd. (205) 497-8882

Serendipity Needleworks–Tuscaloosawww.serendipityneedleworks.com

Friendly, full-service knitting and needle-point shop specializing in luxurious yarns, handpainted canvases, classes, finishing, and smiles!412 Queen City Ave. (205) 758-0108

A R I Z O N A

Grandma’s Spinning Wheel–Tucsonwww.grandmasspinningwheel.com

Our shop is bulging with quality yarns, beads, and accessories for knitters, crocheters, felters, spinners, and weavers.6544 E. Tanque Verde, Ste. 150 (520) 290-3738

C A L I F O R N I A

Unwind–Burbankwww.unwindyarn.com

Where yarn lovers in Southern California con-gregate—you’re always welcome! Unparalleled selection, service, workshops, events.818 N. Hollywood Wy. (818) 840-0800

Itza Knitterie–Glendalewww.itzaknitterie.com

Beautiful yarns, accessories, and classes for all levels, sit and knit, Tue and Thu evenings. 1413 W. Kenneth Rd. (818) 507-1813

Yarndogs–Los Gatoswww.yarndogs.com

Great selection of yarns, books, and supplies. Wide variety of classes. Friendly, helpful staff. Shop online.151 E. Main St. (408) 399-1909

Knit This, Purl That!–Pleasantonwww.yourknittingplace.com

Unique knitting shop in quaint downtown. Beautiful natural and blend yarns, supplies, and classes. [email protected] A Main St. (925) 249-9276

Bobbin’s Nest Studio–Santa Clarawww.bobbinsnest.com

We are a knitting, crochet, sewing, and hand-embroidery store. Beautiful yarns and fabrics galore!1171 Homestead Rd., Ste. 130 (408) 246-1121

Compatto Yarn Salon–Santa Monicawww.compattoyarnsalon.com

Specializing in organic, natural fibers, and ex-clusive hand-dyed/handpainted yarns.2112 Wilshire Blvd. (310) 453-2130

Cottage Yarns–South San Franciscowww.cottageyarns.com

Your yarn source since 1966!607 W. Orange Ave. (650) 873-7371

Lake Tahoe Yarn Company–Truckeewww.laketahoeyarncompany.com

Serving the beautiful Truckee/Lake Tahoe area. Yarns, patterns, accessories, classes. A shop to enjoy. 11008 Donner Pass Rd. (530) 587-1060

Clever Knits–Vistawww.cleverknits.com

Artisan yarns for fiber artists—A new, mod-ern, comfortable yarn store in north San Diego County.214 S. Indiana Ave. (760) 806-6744

C O L O R A D O

Green Valley Weavers & Knitters LLC–Colorado Springs

www.greenvalleyweavers.comStill the best place to get your knit on, indepen-dent 2004 editor’s-pick winner.2115 W. Colorado Ave. (719) 448-9963

Table Rock Llamas Fiber Arts Studio Inc.–Colorado Springs

www.tablerockllamas.comKnitting, crochet, spinning, weaving, felting, synthetic dyes, and DyeWorks natural dye ex-tracts, also “twig and berry.” 6520 Shoup Rd. (866) 495-7747

Bags By CAB Yarn Shoppe–Denverwww.bagsbycab.com

Yarn, supplies, baby items, throws, handbags, accessories, and beautiful felted Bags By CAB! Tamarac Square Mall. 7777 E. Hampden Ave., Ste. Center Court (303) 695-8628

Yarn–Durangowww.yarndurango.com

In downtown, come in and see the best selec-tion of knitting and crochet supplies in the Four Corners.755 E. 2nd Ave. (970) 259-9827

Woolly Works Knit Shop–ElbertRetail—custom knitting, repairs, classes, fiber, cone yarns, limited knitting machine parts, maintenance, lessons. [email protected] Oregon Wagon Trl. (719) 495-2754

My Sister Knits–Fort Collinswww.mysisterknits.com

Scrumptious yarns, knitting accessories, and en-couragement. Visit our website for specials. Tue 10–8, Wed–Sat 10–5. (In the carriage house.) 1408 W. Mountain (970) 407-1461

Highlands Ranch String, A Knitting Boutique–Highlands Ranch

www.stringboutique.comLarge inventory of quality yarns and needles. New classes on our website!9325 Dorchester St., F121 (720) 344-9276

Desert Weyr LLC– Paoniawww.desertweyr.com

Black Welsh Mountain fleece, roving, yarn and breeding stock. Farm Tours by appointment.16870 Garvin Mesa Rd. (970) 527-3573

C O N N E C T I C U T

Mystic River Yarns LLC–Mysticwww.mysticriveryarns.com

Basic to exotic yarns in a pleasant ambiance. Classes, workshops, and personal service by expert knitters. 14 Holmes St. (860) 536-4305

Woolworks Ltd.–Putnamwww.woolworksltd.com

A world of fiber at your fingertips.154 Main St. (860) 963-1228

F L O R I D A

The Knitting Garden–Coral Gableswww.theknittinggarden.org

An exceptional collection of fine yarns, pat-terns, and classes. Cozy and welcoming at-mostphere for all!2716 Ponce de Leon Blvd. (305) 774-1060

Unwind, The Yarn Shop–Fort Walton Beach

www.unwindwithyarn.comLocated in historic downtown. Luxurious yarn from Rowan, Noro, Malabrigo, BlueSky Alpacas, TilliTomas, and others.148 Miracle Strip Pkwy. SE, Ste. 1 (850) 314-9898

G E O R G I A

Creative Yarns–Maconwww.creativeyarns.net

Unique and natural yarns for the discriminat-ing fiber fanatic. Spinning, weaving and fibers for felting.134 Speer Ave. (478) 7GO-KNIT

I L L I N O I S

Chix with Stix–Forest Parkwww.chixwithstixknitting.com

A unique knitting boutique located just out-side Chicago. We offer a wide variety of yarn, classes, and parties. [email protected] W. Madison St. (708) 366-6300

Nana’s Knitting Shop–Oak Lawnwww.nanasknittingshop.com

Beautiful yarn, accessories, and classes for ev-ery skill level. Expert, friendly staff.5144 W. 95th St. (708) 229-0061

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Wool, Warp & Wheel–Richmondwww.woolwarpandwheel.com

Spinning, weaving, and knitting supplies and equipment. Tue–Fri 7 p.m.–9:30 p.m., Sat–Sun 10–5.5605 Mill St. (815) 678-4063

I N D I A N A

Clementine’s Dry Goods–Franklinwww.clementinesdrygoods.com

Handpaints, sock yarns, and Westminster/Rowan fibers and fabrics . . . Clementine’s. Where your stash awaits you.66 S. Water St. (317) 736-0012

I O W A

Knitted Together–West Des Moineswww.knittedtogether.com

Enjoy an inspiring collection of yarns, pat-terns, and classes in a relaxing atmosphere. 7450 Bridgewood Blvd., Ste. 225 (515) 222-YARN

K A N S A S

Gove City Yarns & Buttons–Govewww.govecityyarns.com

The largest selection of yarn and crochet supplies in western Kansas. I-70 exit 93, 10 miles south.319 Broad St. (785) 938-2255

Twist–Wichitawww.twistyarnshop.com

Everything for knit and crochet. Sit & stitch, wi-fi, and classes.607 W. Douglas Ave. (316) 262-9276

K E N T U C K Y

Sophie’s Fine Yarn Shoppe–Louisvillewww.sophiesfineyarn.com

Friendly, full-service yarn shop. Come sit and knit!10482 Shelbyville Rd. Ste. 101 (502) 244-4927

Enchanted Yarn & Fiber–Russellvillewww.enchantedyarnandfiber.com

Offering natural yarns and fibers, spinning wheels, spinning and knitting supplies, and unique handcrafted gifts.399 C. Dodson Ln. (270) 772-1675

M A R Y L A N D

Millicent’s Yarns & More–Cumberland www.millicentsyarns.com

Called one of the top 10 yarn shops on the East Coast. Two hours from Pittsburgh, Baltimore, and D.C. Easy on/off I-68 in western Maryland. 27 N. Centre St. (301) 722-8100

A Tangled Skein–Hyattsvillewww.atangledskein.com

Fine yarns, knitting and crochet supplies, a com-fortable atmosphere, friendly people, good advice.5200 Baltimore Ave. (301) 779-3399

M A S S A C H U S E T T S

YARNS in the Farms–Beverly Farmswww.yarnsinthefarms.com

Beautiful fibers, buttons, and bags; inspiring books; and fun accessories. Lively classes, Knit Nights, and “KNITINI” gatherings!641 Hale St. (978) 927-2108

The Fiber Loft–Harvardwww.TheFiberLoft.com

Knitting~Weaving~Spinning~Felting. Serving fiber enthusiasts for over 30 years. We have what you need! 9 Massachusetts Ave. (Rt. 111) (978) 456-8669

The Woolpack–Littletonwww.woolpackyarn.com

Yearn for Yarn? Unwind your mind and knit yourself silly in our cozy fiber mercantile.676 Great Rd. (978) 952-2500

Seed Stitch Fine Yarn–Salemwww.seedstitchfineyarn.com

New England’s most visited yarn store. Brim-ming with beautiful yarns and lots of hand-craft pleasures. 21 Front St. (978) 744-5557

Knit Purl–SudburyA unique yarn boutique. A large selection of quality yarns and knitting supplies. Classes, expert instruction, friendly service.730 Boston Post Rd. (978) 443-5648

Village Stitchery–Topsfieldwww.villagestitchery.blogspot.com

Largest selection of yarns, books, and notions from your favorite companies. Classes and great personal service.374 Boston St. (978) 887-3083

M I C H I G A N

Busy Hands–Ann Arborwww.busyhandsonline.com

“Life is too short to knit with boring yarn.” Artful Yarns, Reynolds, and Jo Sharp. Classes. Specializing in exceptional customer service!306 S. Main St., Ste. 1-C (734) 996-8020

City Knits–Detroitwww.cityknits.com

The BEST place for yarn. Color nirvana, gour-met fibers, terrific tools! Fabulous location in the Fisher Building. Also in Mt. Clemens.3011 W. Grand Blvd., Ste. 105 (313) 872-9665

Woven Art–East Lansingwww.yarnandfiberart.com

Classes in knitting, crochet, spinning, and weaving. Excellent selection of artisan and hand-dyed yarns and fibers.325B Grove St. (517) 203-4467

Yarns & Threads–Lake Lindenwww.yarnsandthreads.com

Handspun mohair/silk lace yarn! Custom-designed needle and hook cases made in USA.332 Calumet St. (866) 296-9568

City Knits–Mt. Clemenswww.cityknits.com

The BEST place for yarn. Color nirvana, gour-met fibers, and terrific tools! One additional location in Detroit.64 Cherry St. (586) 469-9665

Whitmore Lake Yarn Co.–Whitmore Lake

www.whitmorelakeyarn.comWarm, wonderful, and woolly. Great yarns, needles, notions, books, patterns, and classes! Only 15 minutes north of Ann Arbor.9535 Main St. (734) 449-9688

M I N N E S O T A

All About Yarn–Coon Rapidswww.allaboutyarn.biz

A specialty shop full of gorgeous yarn in a friendly, comfortable atmosphere. Offering classes.455 99th Ave. NW, Ste. 180 (763) 785-4900

M I S S I S S I P P I

Knit Studio LLC–Jacksonwww.shopknitstudio.com

Studio atmosphere with hand-dyed, upscale, natural yarns and fibers as well as nouveau knitting accessories.1481 Canton Mart Rd., Ste. B (601) 991-3099

Knutty Knitters–Yazoo CityWe carry over 60 lines of lovely yarns as well as books, needles, lessons, workshops, fellowship, and great fun.128 S. Main St. (662) 746-7555

N E B R A S K A

The Plum Nelly–Hastingswww.theplumnelly.com

We have everything a fiber artist needs—looms, spinning wheels, fleece, yarn, shuttles, books, magazines, classes. [email protected]. 731 W. Second St. (402) 462-2490

Personal Threads Boutique–Omahawww.personalthreads.com

Everything you need for knitting, crocheting, needlepoint, and weaving! Large selection of the finest yarns and quilting fabric!8600 Cass St. (800) 306-7733


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N E V A D A

Pioneer YARN Company–Mindenwww.pioneeryarn.com

Very large collection of quality yarns, patterns, tools, accessories, and classes. You’ll find it all here!1687 Hwy. 395 N., Ste. 3 (775) 782-1221

Gail Knits–Las Vegaswww.gailknits.com

Your niche for knitting. Best-stocked store for handknitting.8450 W. Sahara (702) 838-7713

N E W H A M P S H I R E

Elegant Ewe–Concordwww.elegantewe.com

Original designs and exceptional customer ser-vice. Featured in Knitter’s Stash and selected by Yankee Magazine as a must-visit destination. 71 S. Main St. (603) 226-0066

The Fiber Studio–Hennikerwww.fiberstudio.com

Natural fiber yarns for knitting and weaving, needles, books, looms, spinning wheels. Our own handpainted yarns.161 Foster Hill Rd. (603) 428-7830

Ewe’ll Love It!–Nashuawww.ewellloveit.com

Our motto is “inspire, indulge, instruct”. Ewe’ll Love It! is full of yarn, notions, chocolate . . .17 Factory St. (603) 578-2630

Inspire 2 Knit & Tea–Plymouthwww.Inspire2knit.com

A wonderful yarn shop, an amazing array of fibers and colors! Let us inspire you.12 Yeaton Rd. (603) 536-KNIT (5648)

N E W J E R S E Y

Patricia’s Yarns–Hobokenwww.patriciasyarns.com

Beautiful natural-fiber yarns from around the world for knitting and crocheting. Private les-sons and group classes available. 107 4th St. (201) 217-YARN

Woolbearers–Mount Hollywww.woolbearers.com

Full-service knitting, spinning, weaving, and dyeing shop specializing in handpainted fiber and yarns, spinning and weaving equipment.90 High St. (609) 914-0003

The Skein Attraction–Teaneckwww.theskeinattraction.com

Come see our shop designs, take a class, browse our yarns, and meet the family. 500 Cedar Ln. (201) 836-5648

N E W M E X I C O

Miriam’s Well–Santa Fewww.sfschoolofweaving.com

Santa Fe’s premier yarn shop. Local, national, and international designer yarns. 614 Paseo de Peralta (505) 982-6312

Needle’s Eye Inc.–Santa Fewww.needleseyesantafe.com

New Mexico’s largest selection of quality yarns, books, and supplies for knitting, crocheting, and needlepoint.839 Paseo De Peralta, Ste. O (800) 883-0706

N E W Y O R K

The Warm Ewe–Chathamwww.warmewe.com

Great yarn selection combined with needle-point, embroidery and bead departments, and friendly help!31 Main St. (518) 392-2929

Yarn Cupboard–Jamesvillewww.yarncupboard.com

Conveniently located 10 minutes from the center of Syracuse. Yarns, patterns/books, no-tions, buttons, accessories.6487 E. Seneca Tpk. (315) 399-5148

Seaport Yarn–New York(Wall St. area)

www.seaportyarn.comThe yarnaholic’s candy store. Your heart’s de-sire, your knitting needs.181 Broadway, 5th Fl. (212) 220-5230

Knitting Nation–Nyackwww.knittingnation.com

Experience the largest selection of luxury yarns in the tri-state area at America’s friendliest yarn shop in a charming Hudson River town.30 N. Broadway (845) 348-0100

N O R T H C A R O L I N A

The Tail Spinner–Richlandswww.tail-spinner.com

Complete fiber arts center: Quality yarns, spin-ning wheels, looms, classes, related tools, and equipment.109 N. Wilmington St. (910) 324-6166

O H I O

Fiber Fun Studio–Albanywww.fiberfunstudio.com

Quality yarn, elegant novelties, and fiber-art supplies for the knitter, crocheter, spinner, and weaver.28743 Gaston Rd. (740) 698-0101

Knitters Mercantile–Columbuswww.knittersmercantile.com

Supplies, tools, toys, and togetherness for the knitting and crocheting enthusiast. 214 Graceland Blvd. (614) 888-8551

Smith Furnishings–OberlinShowcasing fine yarn, books, supplies, and lessons. On the Historic Square in Downtown Oberlin.25 W. College St. (440) 774-2371

O R E G O N

Rose & Ram Knit Shop & Studio–Independence

Out of the ordinary yarns and patterns. Spin-ning fibers, supplies, and homegrown wool from our Shetland sheep. 15 miles west of Salem.226 S. Main St., Ste. A (503) 838-5648

Close Knit–Portland www.closeknitportland.com

Close Knit is the friendly neighborhood knit-ting shop in the heart of northeast Portland, the Alberta Arts District. Come enjoy a creative knitter’s paradise! 2140 NE Alberta St. (503) 288-4568

Knit Purl–Portlandwww.knit-purl.com

Knit Purl is Portland’s premier handknitting boutique, specializing in Catherine Lowe Cou-ture, handpainted, and luxury yarns.1101 SW Alder St. (866) 656-KNIT

Knitting Bee–Portland Westsidewww.theknittingbee.com

We LOVE yarn! Friendly customer service and a fabulous selection of yarns for knitting/crochet. 15 minutes west of Portland, off Hwy. 26.18305 NW W. Union Rd. (503) 439-3316

All About Yarn–Tigardwww.allaboutyarn.net

Meeting your knitting needs and serving your creative expectations one strand at a time.11945 SW Pacific Hwy., Ste. 111 (503) 684-4851

P E N N S Y L V A N I A

Silverbrook Fiber Arts & Sheepskins–Marchand

www.silverbrookfiberarts-sheepskin.comTen rooms of fiber-arts equipment (knitting, weaving, spinning) including 4 rooms of yarn in restored 1860 home. Classes. Punxsutawney/Indiana area. 16040 U.S. Hwy. Rt. 119 N. (724) 286-3317

Natural Stitches–Pittsburghwww.naturalstitches.com

Best selection of natural fibers in Pittsburgh. Knowledgeable staff. Open 7 days. Evenings, too! 6401 Penn Ave. (412) 441-4410

R H O D E I S L A N D

Fresh Purls Ltd.–Providencewww.freshpurls.com

A yarn store just for you, offering classes, fine yarns, needles, notions, books, and patterns. Please visit us in the store.769A Hope St. (401) 270-8220


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Bella Yarns–Warrenwww.bellayarns.com

Offering affordable luxuries for your knitting, crochet, weaving, and spinning needs. Get help with any project at our weekly walk-in classes!476-478 Main St. (401) 247-7243

S O U T H C A R O L I N A

yes yarn–Andersonwww.yesyarn.com

Fine yarn and other essentials in a comfort-able, cool, contemporary environment. Classes and gatherings ongoing.3014 N. Main St., Ste. C-2 (864) 222-8244

T E N N E S S E E

Bliss Yarns–Brentwoodwww.blissyarns.com

Just south of Nashville off I-65, you’ll find a friendly and helpful staff to assist with all your fiber needs.127 Franklin Rd. (615) 370-8717

T E X A S

Yarntopia–Katywww.yarntopiaonline.com

Unique mix of yarn and accessories. Rowan, Louisa Harding, Fleece Artist, Malabrigo, and Lexie Barnes Bags.2944 S. Mason Rd., Ste. M (281) 392-2386

Rose Path Weaving–Lindalewww.rosepathweaving.net

In east Texas, just off I-20 on Hwy. 69N. High-quality yarn in natural fibers. Skacel and Brit-tany knitting needles and beads. 2808 S. Main St., #E (903) 882-3234

The Woolie Ewe–Planowww.wooliewe.com

Largest selection of yarn in the Southwest. E-mail [email protected] Custer Rd., #328 (972) 424-3163

Delightful Hands–Prosperwww.delightfulhands.com

Personalized classes and sales by appointment.1902 Crown Colony (972) 347-1668

Twisted Yarns–Springwww.twistedyarnstexas.com

Meet other twisted knitters at this warm, friendly shop! Great yarns, classes, and expe-rienced staff.702 Spring Cypress Rd., Ste. A (281) 528-8664

U T A H

Blazing Needles–Salt Lake Citywww.blazing-needles.com

Blazing Needles, your friendly Sugarhouse community gathering place. Yarns to inspire. Classes—everyone welcome.1365 S. 1100 E. (801) 487-5648 (KNIT)

V I R G I N I A

Aylin’s Woolgatherer–Falls Churchwww.aylins-wool.com

The most complete source for knitting and crocheting artists! Specializing in needlecraft and novelty knitting yarns. 7245 Arlington Blvd., Ste. 318 (703) 573-1900

On the Lamb–Stauntonwww.onthelambyarns.com

Easy access from I-81 and I-64, a tempting collection of knitting supplies awaits custom-ers of all skill levels, in a welcoming, historic setting. 906 N. Augusta St. (540) 886-YARN

My Favorite Yarn Shop–Warrentonwww.myfavoriteyarnshop.biz

Fabulous yarns and fibers for knitters and cro-cheters, spinners, weavers, and felters. Classes and equipment. 85 Garrett St. (540) 349-8355

W A S H I N G T O N

Warehouse Woolery–Chelan Fallswww.warehousewoolery.com

Knitting, spinning, felting, and all things fiber in our unique, cozy atmosphere. Classes, spin/knit ins! Online orders shipped same day!20 Beebe Bridge Rd. (509) 888-0285

Paradise Fibers–Spokanewww.paradisefibers.net

Terrific selection of wool yarn, knitting nee-dles, wheels and looms. Order online or stop in. Same day shipping!1101 N. Thor St. (888) 320-7746

W I S C O N S I N

Loop Yarn Shop–Milwaukeewww.loopyarnshop.com

Loop supports a l l knitters and crochet-ers in their creative f iber endeavors and aspirations!2963 N. Humboldt Blvd. (414) 265-2312

Just 4 Ewe–Oak Creekwww.just4ewe.org

All fiber arts needs, knitting, crocheting, spin-ning, felting, and classes, Just 4 Ewe! 8615 S. Market Pl. (414) 768-YARN (9276)

W Y O M I N G

Iron Kettle Yarn Emporium–Codywww.needleworkparadise.com

Great yarn and needlework shop located near Yellowstone Park full of fantastic yarns, nee-dles, accessories, and books. 513 16th St. (800) 801-5660

C A N A D A - B R I T I S H C O L U M B I A

Twist of Fate Yarns–Kamloopswww.twistoffateyarns.com

Fine yarns, exquisite fibers, wheels, looms, and more for spinners, knitters, weavers, dy-ers, felters, and crocheters. 2020-F Falcon Rd. (250) 434-6297

Needle & Arts Centre–Campbell Riverwww.needlenart.com and

www.needlenarts.blogspot.comMore than 180 specialty yarns with Knit Café, patterns, accessories, and consulting. Import-ers of Surina Needles. 910 Island Hwy. (888) 588-7834

C A N A D A - O N T A R I O

Little Red Mitten–St. Thomaswww.littleredmitten.ca

Unique shop featuring a great selection of qual-ity knitting and spinning supplies in a restored 1842 home. Friendly, helpful service.86 Talbot St. (519) 207-2880

the knit cafe–Torontowww.theknitcafetoronto.com

Original patterns; colorful, natural, local yarns and knitting accessories; one-of-a-kind gifts; and knitting classes.1050 Queen St. W. (416) 533-5648

K N I T T I N G N E E D L E SSWALLOW CASEIN, KNITTING NEEDLES, “Flex-ible yet firm, smooth, effortless knitting.” Made from milk. Retail and wholesale. (319) 367-5065; [email protected]; www.countrylanefiberarts.homestead.com/Home.

L I T E R AT U R ETHE SPINNING WHEEL SLEUTH, A newsletter about spinning wheels and related tools. $24/4 issues [$28 Can., $35 intl.]. Sample $3.50. Hand Looms Supplements $10. The Spinning Wheel S leut h , PO B ox 42 2, A ndover, M A 01810. www.spwhsl.com.

W E B S I T E S TO V I S I TWWW.COMMONWEALTHYARNS.COM. Exciting selection of Be Sweet Magic Balls, Rare Yarns Alpaca, and Silkwood Hand-dyed Yarns. Telephone (604) 874-4543 for an appointment if you want to visit our design studio.

WWW.WOOL2DYE4.COM Exclusive line of undyed smooth yarns in all weights for hand-dyers. Also spinning fibers. Wholesale inquiries welcome. [email protected].


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Arrowhead Stolepages 44, 57

Misty Gardenpages 11, 20

Midwest Moonlightpages 11, 20


project index

Here and There Cables pages 8, 14

Huckleberry Ascot pages 11, 18

Burma Rings Scarf pages 9, 14

Neck Warmerpages 9, 16

Verde pages 9, 16

Pom-pom Scarf pages 10, 18

Forbes Forestpages 28, 32

Zigzag Stripespages 12, 22

Penobscot Silk Scarfpages 12, 22

Frill Collarpages 12, 24

Frothy Scarfpages 29, 33

Larkspur Scarfpages 31, 38

Never Wimpy Wimplepages 29, 34

Shibori-esque Neck Wrappages 30, 35

Vintage Velvetpages 31, 36

Russian Lace Scarfpages 31, 36

Orenburg Lace Trianglepages 42, 50

Chunky Lace Wrappages 43, 56

Ruffl ed Capelet with Sleevespages 42, 52

Summer Shawlettepages 43, 53

Lace Ponchopages 43, 55

Mini Poncho pages 43, 56

Star Rib Mesh Poncho pages 44, 57

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project index

Little Arrowhead Shawlpages 44, 58

December Lights Tampages 62, 70

Koolhaas Hatpages 60, 68

Sabrina Tampages 61, 69

Sideways Grande Hatpages 61, 69

Lock Nest Hatpages 63, 71

Brioche Helmet Hatpages 65, 76

Earfl ap Hatspages 63, 72

Peek-A-Boo Clochepages 64, 74

Tweed Beretpages 65, 75

Molly’s Headbandpages 65, 79

Infant’s Fancy Silk Sockpages 91, 97

Rib and Cable Sockspages 88, 92

Baby’s First Sockpages 89, 93

Cowgirl Slipper Sockspages 89, 94

Citrine Sockletspages 90, 95

Up-Down Spiral Soxpages 98, 103

Traveler’s Stockingspages 100, 112

Bazaar Sockspages 99, 104

Algonquin Sockspages 99, 108

A Holiday Stockingpages 100, 109

Annetrelac Sockspages 100, 111

Keep Them Warm Wristletspages 120, 127

Stockinette and Seed Poncho pages 44, 58

Wishbone Sockspages 102, 115

The Point About Cuffspages 121, 128

Subway Mittenspages 118, 124

Je Suis Jolie Mittspages 122, 128

Cornfl ower Mittspages 119, 124

Layered Turkish Glovespages 123, 129

Mosaic Mittspages 120, 125

Alpaca Glovespages 120, 126

Knit Cuffs With A Cable Twistpages 123, 131

Fingerless Mittspages 123, 131

Bells & Whistles Sockspages 101, 113

Larkspur Hatpages 63, 73

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I went to a business seminar recently and brought along my knitting. When the speaker began, I got to work. Th e harder I listened, absorbing new ideas, the faster my hands worked on my sock.

That afternoon, with my finished sock nestled in my new knitting bag and my hands—without knitting to keep them busy—restlessly doodling, the speaker made a remark that made my head snap up.

She was speaking about a woman who had been on her board of directors. “She never listened,” said our speaker. “She came to board meetings with her knitting and knitted the whole meeting long.” My cheeks burned. I felt thankful that my socks were safely tucked away. Later, I apologized to the speaker for seeming rude.

“Oh, don’t worry about it,” she said. “You didn’t knit for that long.”“That’s not the point,” I said. I tried to explain that my brain works

better when my hands are busy, but she had gone on to someone else.She didn’t understand. But then again, I thought, a few years ago I

myself wouldn’t have understood. Though I’ve always kept my hands busy while my brain works—mostly doodling—I never thought about the brain-hand connection until I started knitting.

I haven’t been knitting long. My first project, done just over two years ago, was a pair of midnight blue chenille mittens. I was so ob-sessed that I worked on them in the car at stoplights. Never mind that somehow I increased the number of stitches so that when the mittens were finished I had to keep my hands fisted to keep the mittens from falling off. Never mind that cotton chenille isn’t very warm and my hands froze. It didn’t matter—they were beautiful.

My next projects were hats—many, many hats. I wrote stories in my head while I knitted—around and around until I had enough hats to keep the heads of all my family members warm. My father-in-law, a gruff old softie who’d give me the moon if he could, cried when I gave him his hat—as though I’d given the stars in return.

Then I tried a sweater, made from rug cotton on size eleven nee-dles. The bulky yarn reminded me of fall, and I thought of breezy days in college, remembered a friend I hadn’t thought of in years, composed a letter I’d write down later. The sweater looks, perhaps predictably, like a bathmat. I’ve never worn it but can’t throw it away. I’m hoping I’ll get a puppy soon: the sweater would make a perfect dog bed.

After that I bought a silk/cashmere blend in soft pink and knitted myself a shawl. It took months to finish, and as I worked I thought of the type of person I’d be when I wore it: tall and willowy, confident and feminine. I felt a keen sense of loss when I finally finished. Now what would I knit?

Knitting Gives Me More Than SocksJ E N N I F E R N A S T U

ravelings


Four black hats (escapist knitting); a cotton vest in shades of pink and baby blue (reluctant knitting: “I’ll never finish this, and I’m not sure I want to”); dozens of Christmas presents (panic knitting: “If I make something for Mom then I have to make something for Dad and it’s Christmas Eve”); a Fair Isle sweater (challenging knitting: “Will I ever get the hang of this?”); staff projects for the magazine (deadline knitting). Some projects haven’t worked out; they sit tangled and sad in the bottom of my knitting basket. These are difficult to bear, and I cringe when I come upon them, feeling like a neglectful mother.

And then there are dry spells, and they are each different, as well. There’s the “I don’t have any ideas” spell, the “I don’t have any good yarn” spell (despite the overflowing state of my yarn cabinet) and, of course, the “there are too many things to knit in the world and I can’t knit all of them so I won’t knit anything” spell. This last is the most painful: I am like a sullen teenager again, refusing the beauties of the world if I can’t have them all. It’s the one that causes my heart to race and my hands to sweat whenever I see something being knitted. I want to run to the yarn store and spend enough money to give my household a heart attack, yet I hold myself back, pretending to be aloof. When this happens, I ease back into knitting with a simple hat, which always gets my mind on track again, percolating happily as my hands keep busy.

Even my unfinished projects have given me something: peace of mind, new ideas, dreams. In the two years since I started, my knitting has come to fill a space in my life. As simple as curling up with a good book, knitting is just something I do. Yet when I knit for my family, they react as though I’ve done something unreal and incredible, like learning to fly. Some, like the woman at the seminar, dismiss my knitting as something I do to distract myself, while still others—even good friends—just think it’s bizarre.

I know better. It’s not mindless, not a distraction. In fact it’s just the opposite: an attraction, one between my hands and my brain. I make no brilliant leaps when I’m knitting. I haven’t solved the problem of world hunger or cured cancer or balanced my finances. Instead I wonder and daydream. I have ideas. I create.

Jennifer Nastu learned to knit thanks to her friends here at Inter-weave. She wholeheartedly blames them for the current state of her addiction.

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BooksNumerous fi ber titles offer inspiration and in-depth explorations into popular topics and techniques.

Read Watch Click ShopMagazines

Television

Get started with the world’s most beautiful fi bers, yarns, and tools; meet trendsetting designers; improve or learn new skills; and knit along with us. Knitting Daily TV covers knitting, crochet, stitching, felting, spinning, and other fi ber crafts. Make time for yarn every day! Check out your local listings or order Knitting Daily TV on DVD.

Online

Knitting Daily reaches out to fi ber crafters every weekday with engaging columns, fun contests, free

downloadable patterns, guest bloggers, and more. Log onto KnittingDaily.com today to check out what’s going on, buy patterns, register for events, and be a part of a growing online fi ber community.

i n t e r w e a v e . c o m

Knits – encourages creativity and expertise, covering knitting in depth with sophisticated projects and informative articles for all skill levels

Piecework – for those with a passion for historical work—knitting, crochet, needlework—and intriguing stories and techniques

Spin.Off – features everything about making yarn by hand, in-depth fi ber information, and basic-to-experienced projects and techniques

Crochet – features original crochet patterns for all skill levels, tips and techniques, and inspiring fi ber stories

Handwoven – the go-to source for weaving, supplies, patterns, tips, and techniques for handweavers

Knitscene – combines the latest trends with technique tocreate easy-to-knit patterns that are fresh and unique

Knits Holiday Gifts – unique projects for all levels withgift ideas for everyone on your holiday list

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Ladder Ruffl e ScarfKumara wool/camel yarn

www.classiceliteyarns.comKit includes yarn, pattern and

button, available at your LYS

Exclusive button design by Annie Adams

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interweave knitting accessories

Documents