interactive led panel kits -...

INteractive LED Panel Kits

Support: http://www.evilmadscientist.com/forum/

A DIY Electronics Project designed by

Kit version 3.3

Manual v. 3.3A

Distributed by

Evil Mad Science LLC

EvilMadScience.com

Making the World a Better Place,One Evil Mad Scientist at a Time

Evil Mad Scientist Laboratories

Step 0: Safety, Warnings, Et Cetera

While we want you to be happy with our kits, there’s something you need to know: We cannot supervise you. No, really, we can’t. Your safety and compliance with local law is fully your own responsibility.

Our kits are designed with the goals of enriching the world through electronics education and improving access to media for electronic art. It is our intention that this kit can be built to create an interesting piece of electronic art, and we actively encourage you to hack, modify and improve upon our design.

While we strive to make our kits and instructions safe and reliable, it is ultimately not possible for us to ensure that either your process or completed product will be safe and/or reliable. You, as the user of your own hands and mind, must take that responsibility. We cannot inspect your handiwork for functionality or safe operation. It is your own responsibility to ensure that the artwork that you have built is safe enough to operate in your home or wherever you choose to install it.

Always use common sense and appropriate safety precautions. Tools, heat, chemicals, electricity, foods and things-not-in-this-list can all be extremely dangerous if not used correctly. Minors should not attempt to use a soldering iron without supervision by a responsible adult.

Soldering irons and things that have recently touched them can be extremely hot; you can burn yourself, someone else, and even set fire to large expensive things that you did not intend to. Wear eye protection, especially when soldering and/or clipping leads. Clipped leads can fly a long way, so make sure that everyone nearby also has their eyes safe!

Use of our instructions and kit materials is entirely at your own risk. (If we tell you to do something stupid, don’t do it just because we told you to.) We disclaim responsibility for any and all direct and indirect damage, injury, or expense that could possibly arise from use of our kit materials and/or instructions. In no case shall we be liable in any amount for any kind of damage, loss, or injury resulting from the use of this kit and/or instructions.

If you do not find these terms acceptable, please return your kit for a refund.

Evil Mad Science LLC440 N. Wolfe Rd.Sunnyvale, CA 94085, USA

STEP 1: Tool Checklist

Essential tools: Needed to build the kit:

1. Soldering iron

2. Solder

3. Angle Flush Cutters

1. Resistor lead forming tool

2. DIP IC lead bender

3. 5/64” Hex Wrench

4. Desoldering braid

Optional but recommended:

e.g., Jameco 99363: ~$8

Allows fast, neat bending of resistor leads.

This one is Speedy Bend 801, Mouser part #5166-801 (~$8)

(Also now available at the Evil Mad Science Shop!)

Thin rosin core solder.

60/40 solder is easy to use;diameter of .025” or so is typicalfor work like this.

Either standard (lead-bearing) or newer “lead free” solder types will both workjust fine.

For clipping loose wire ends.

e.g., Sears Craftsman

Bend those IC leads straightto put them in the holes.Not really a big deal, but....

Well, let’s hope that nothingneeds to get desoldered.... but....

For attaching circuit boards to standoffs. May be hard to find outside the USA,but then again, it is optional.

A basic soldering iron meant for electronics, with a reasonably fine point tip. We recommend one of this design-- a "pencil shape" soldering iron (not gun!) with a base that holds the iron and a wet sponge.

While you don’t need an expensive one, the iron can make a big difference in the time needed to build the kit. (Seriously. If you use one that is old and busted, or an ultra-low-end $10 iron, expect to spend at least twice as long soldering!)

Our recommendation for a low-cost iron: WLC100 by Weller, about $40.

Step 2. Identify Basic Stuff

Bill Of Materials

Power Supply

Printed Circuit Boards

Item #0 on the BOM. The circuit boards are 12x12 inches square and are made of a standard flame retardant fiberglass epoxy composite with copper traces and plated through holes. The finish is lead-free solder covered by black epoxy “solder mask” with a white silkscreen legend on the top side.

Be careful handling printed circuit boards (PCBs); the edges can sometimes be sharp. If needed, the surface can be cleaned, gently, with isopropyl alcohol.

More about the circuit boards in step 3.

The panels run on 24 V DC and require up to 200 mA per panel.

International users of our universal power supplies may need to supply a local line cord as input to the power supply.

The circuit boards and connectors are designed for a maximum of 2.5 A input current, which limits how many boards can be connected together if their power supplies are networked together. If you wish to connect more than eight panels, please pay careful attention to step 22 of these instructions.

Other componentsOther components listed on the BOM are in little baggies,

labeled by their BOM line item numbers.

Line # Per Panel

Reference Description Type Tot Qty

0 1 - Circuit board Version 3.1 8

1 4 - Standoff, round, 6-32 x 3/4" Keystone 3488 32

2 4 - Screw, Stainless 6-32 BSCS 32

3 14 R101,R102,R103, R115,R116, R201,R202,R203, R301,R302,R303, R401,R402,R403

Resistor 5.1 K OHM 1/4W 5% CFR-25JB-5K1 112

4 12 R104,R107,R108,R204, R207,R208,R304,R307, R308,R404,R407,R408

Resistor 51 K OHM 1/4W 5% CFR-25JB-51K 96

5 4 R105,R205,R305,R405 Resistor 100 K OHM 1/4W 5% CFR-25JB-100K 32

6 20 R106,R111,R112,R113, R114,R206,R211,R212, R213,R214,R306,R311, R312,R313,R314,R406, R411,R412,R413,R414

Resistor 6.8M OHM 1/4W 5% CFR-25JB-6M8 160

7 11 R109,R110, R209,R210,R215, R309, R310,R315, R409,R410,R415

Resistor 200 Ohm, 1/4W CFR-25JB-200R 88

8 10 C101,C102,C201,C202, C301,C302,C401,C402, C403,C404

Capacitor 0.22 uF poly film, box construction

BQ014D0224K 80

9 4 Q100,Q200,Q300,Q400 Phototransistor, Infrared (black) LTR-3208E 32

10 8 IRD100,IRD101, IRD200,IRD201, IRD300,IRD301, IRD400,IRD401

LED, Infrared LTE-5208A 64

11 4 U101,U201,U301,U401 IC, Quad op-amp LM324N 32

12 2 J12, J41 Connector Female 8 pos. female, gold, 0.100” right angle

PPPC081LGBN-RC 16

13 2 J23, J34 Connector, Header, 8 pos., gold, 0.100” right angle

22-28-8082 16

14 80 D100,D101,D102,D103,D104, D105,D106,D107,D108,D109, D110,D111,D112,D113,D114, D115,D116,D117,D118,D119, and D200 (....), D300 (....), D400 (....)

LEDs, WHITE, BLUE, “PURE” GREEN, or VIOLET ONLY. VF = 3.2V-3.4V @ 20 mA. Parts should have similar brightness and forward voltage.

Various 640

15 - J400 Power Jack (one PER KIT) PJ-002AH 1

16 - S400 Power Switch (one PER KIT) 2M1-SP1-T6-B1-M1QE 1

Interactive LED Panel Kit: Bill of Materials:: 8 panel version Kit version 3.1, 5/2008The Bill of Materials (BOM) is a customized master list of the parts that are in your kit. Keep it handy; you might need it.

These instructions will refer to items in the BOM by line item number. For example, line 7 on the BOM refers to a 200 ohm resistor. We will refer to that part here as part “#7”.

Step 3. Map of the PCB

OrientationOne side of the board has the Evil Mad Science logo. This is the TOP side of the printed circuit board.

All electronic components go into the TOP side of the circuit board, except for the power connector and power switch.

(Top Side)

QuadrantsComponents on the board are divided into four similar quadrants, numbered 1-4.

With a few exceptions, the components in each quadrant are identical.

Each component on the board has a unique designation. In most cases, the leading digit in a given part’s designation indicates the quadrant that it belongs to.

Example: Resistor R311, chip U301, and capacitor C302 are located in Quadrant 3.

Quadrant

I

Quadrant

3

Quadrant

4

Components in the quadrants

The central block of components in each quadrant is mostly identical, with the exception of the leading digit which indicates the quadrant.

Here is what the layout for the central block of quadrant 2 looks like. There are two capacitors (C201, C202), one integrated circuit (U201), one infrared LED (IRD201), one phototransistor (Q200) and 14 resistors (R201 - R214).

This layout is repeated for each of the four quadrants.

(Top Side)

Quadrant

2

NOTE 1: Besides the repeating parts, there are a handful of “irregular” components (including R215 in this view) that do not repeat between quadrants and have less obvious locations.

NOTE 2: The array of visible LEDs outside the main block is a separate topic that we will return to in steps 11-12, after soldering the other components.

Step 4. Add Standoffs + Screws

Add standoffs to bottom side of Circuit Boards• Grab your first PCB panel (part #0) and find parts #1 and #2, the standoffs and screws. Install the standoffs in on the BOTTOM side of each corner, so that the white printing is visible from the top, when the board sits on the standoffs.

You can tighten the screws with a 5/64” hex wrench. If you do not have one, drop the screw through one of the holes, put your finger over the screw to hold it still, and thread the standoff fully onto it. (Pressing firmly on the screw head, you can actually get the standoff very tight this way.) Repeat for all of the PCB panels in your kit.

#2

#1

#0

Top (printed) side up!

(5/64” hex wrench)

ThreadedStandoff

The following steps concern the electronic components on the circuit boards. If you are building a multi-panel kit, you can either complete one board and move on to the next, or instead complete one component on all the panels as you go.

(...and how to do it.)Step 5. Begin adding Resistors

Part #3 is a 5.1 kilo-ohm resistor(Color code: Green-Brown-Red-Gold)

Implied procedure for adding electronic components:

1. Bend the leads of components as needed.(Resistors need bending, most others do not.

Optionally use lead forming tool shown in Step 1.)

2. Insert each component into the circuit board, from the top, at its given location. Push it flush to the board.

(Resistors are unpolarized; they can go in either way.)

3. On the back side, gently bend the leads out at 45° to hold them in place while you solder.

4. Solder both pins from the back side.

5. Clip off extra leads on back side.

(Central Block of quadrant 1 shown)

We are adding a total of 14 of these resistors across the circuit board. Three are found in the central block of each quadrant:

R101, R102, and R103 (quadrant 1),R201, R202, and R203 (quadrant 2), R301, R302, and R303 (quadrant 3), and R401, R402, and R403 (quadrant 4)

[Unique to quadrant 1]

[Repeats in each quadrant]

Two more of these appear in quadrant 1 only:

R115 and R116

Bend!

Insert!

Bend out!

Solder!

Clip!

So... add the 14 resistors to the board-- bend the leads, insert them into their locations, solder, and clip the excess leads away.

Step 6. Add Resistors, Part II



Part #6 is a 6.8 mega-ohm resistor(Color code: Blue-Grey-Green-Gold)

20 resistors: 5 each in all four quadrants:

R106, and R111 - R114 (quadrant 1),R206, and R211 - R214 (quadrant 2), R306, and R311 - R314 (quadrant 3), and R406, and R411 - R414 (quadrant 4)

Part #5 is a 100 kilo-ohm resistor(Color code: Brown-Black-Yellow-Gold)


R105, R205, R305, and R405

Part #4 is a 51 kilo-ohm resistor(Color code: Green-Brown-Orange-Gold)


R104, R107, and R108 (quadrant 1),R204, R207, and R208 (quadrant 2), R304, R307, and R308 (quadrant 3), and R404, R407, and R408 (quadrant 4)

Step 7. Resistors And Capacitors

(Central Block of quadrant 2 shown)Part #7 is a 200 ohm resistor(Color code: Red-Black-Brown-Gold)

We add a total of 11 of these spread over the circuit board. Two are found in the central block of each quadrant:

R109 and R110 (quadrant 1),R209 and R210 (quadrant 2), R309 and R310 (quadrant 3), and R409 and R410 (quadrant 4)

Three more are irregular, appearing in only three places:

R215, R315, and R415


Part #8 is a 0.22 µF capacitor

We add a total of 10 of these spread over the circuit board. Two are found in the central block of each quadrant:

C101 and C102 (quadrant 1),C201 and C202 (quadrant 2), C301 and C302 (quadrant 3), and C401 and C402 (quadrant 4)

There are also two “irregular,” capacitors at the lower-right edge of the circuit board:

C403 and C404

C403 and C404

These capacitors vary in appearance a bit, but they are tiny boxes with plastic exteriors and two leads. It may be molded or shrink-wrapped, and the colors can vary.

This type of capacitor is unpolarized; they can go in either way. Put the capacitors in the circuit board like they were resistors: drop them in and bend back the leads on the bottom side to hold them in place. Solder them and trim the excess leads.

Step 8. Identify Opto COmponeNts

#9Phototransistor

#10 & #14LEDs

Three of the remaining parts are optoelectronic devices:

Aside: What’s all this infrared and phototransistor stuff about, anyway?

Phototransistors are a type of light sensor. The infrared (IR) LEDs shine light up out of panel. Some of this IR reflects off of objects above the panel and bounces back to hit the phototransistors. This allows the panels to be sensitive even in the dark. The phototransistors have a black plastic package that blocks visible light. This arrangement is used so that (1) so that the lights shining up out of the panels are invisible and (2) the panels do not react to light generated by their own (visible) LEDs. The type of IR light that we are using is just like visible light except that it is barely outside the range of our eyes; the panels are not sensitive to heat.

For all “opto” components in the kit, the long lead goes in the square hole. Since the long lead is longer, it naturally goes in first. So remember: Square hole first!

(Better view of a Flat face)

Flatface

Flat faceor notch

Put the lead in thesquare hole first!

These types of components have a polarity; they must be installed in a particular direction.Note that one side has a long lead, while the otherhas a short lead and a flat (or notched) face.

Phototransistors (#9),Infrared LEDs (#10), and Visible LEDs (#14).

Step 9. Add Infrared Components

(Central Block of quadrant 2 shown)Part #9 is the infrared phototransistor.(Black plastic package.)

We add one in each quadrant:

Q100, Q200, Q300, and Q400

Part #10 is the infrared LED

There are a total of 8 of these spread over the circuit board. Put one in the central block of each quadrant:

Orientation matters: the long lead goes in the square hole. Push the device flush to the circuit board. Note that the flat face of the device matches the drawing on the circuit board.

(Clear plastic package with a notch)

IRD100 IRD400

IRD200 IRD300

IRD101, IRD201, IRD301, and IRD401


The other four, IRD100, IRD200, IRD300, and IRD400

are located on the board as shown:

Orientation matters: Long lead in the square hole; notch in IR LED matches up to flat face of drawing.

Each panel has four chips: U101, U201, U301, and U401, which are found in the central blocks of the four quadrants.

The most important feature to notice on the sockets and chips is the “half-moon” indentation at one end on each. This is the polarity marker.

If they do not line up neatly, the legs (pins) of the chip may need to be bent slightly: Carefully bend them straight like so, pushing one side against a flat surface. (If you have one, use the DIP IC lead bender from Step 1.)

Step 10. Add Integrated Circuits

Part #11 is an LM324 quad op-amp: a type of integrated circuit (“chip”). It sits in a socket on the circuit board.


14-pin “DIP” socket.

After soldering, the chips should slip fit into their sockets with firm, even pressure.

LM324

Solder the sockets, not the chips, into the circuit board.

Orientation is VERY IMPORTANT: Match the end of the socket with the half-moon shape to the half-moon shape illustrated on the printed circuit board.(And put it into the TOP side, of course.) Each socket should easily slip into place. Gently

bend out a couple of the socket pins on the back side to keep it from falling out when you turn the board over to solder. Then, solder into place every pin of each socket.

Once the sockets are all soldered, you can insert the chips (see note at right), again paying attention to make sure that the half-moon end is lined up on the circuit board, socket, and chip.

Step 11. Map of the PCB, Part IIIt’s now time to identify the remaining componentsand their locations on the circuit board:

#12 Female 8-pin connectors #13 Male 8-pin connectors #14 Visible LEDs #15 Power jack #16 Power switch

The two types of connectors are found on the four edges of the board. The visible LEDs fill up a regular grid of locations across the board. The jack and switch sit in the lower half of quadrant four in one of the circuit boards.

Progress check: At this stage, you should have no empty locations besides the ones indicated here.

First, let’s add the connectors.

#12

#12

#13

#13

Add #12, the female 8-pin connectors,in two locations: J12 and J41.

The connectors sit flush against the board but hang out past the edge a little bit as shown.

Note 1: The pins are very stiff and should not be bent underneath the board to hold them in place.Note 2: If you are only building one panel, or otherwise will not be connecting any other boards to that edge, you do not need to solder in these connectors.

Add #13, the male 8-pin connectors,in two locations: J23 and J34.

The plastic part of these connectors sit flush against the board; where indicated by the white silkscreen. The pins should point parallel to the board.

Note: Notes 1 and 2 above go for Part #13 as well.

(Next up: LEDs!)

#14 (80 places!)

OR, “THE PCB STRIKES BACK”

#15#16

Step 12. Add the LEDs

Add #14, the visible LEDs, which go in the regular grid of 80 locations marked “Dnnn,” as illustrated in step 11.

• Remember that the LEDs go in long-lead-first, into the Square hole of the footprint. Push them all the way down until they are flush against the PCB. As

• Once you have placed the LEDs where they need to go, solder them in place and clip the excess leads off the back.

Aside: If you want to use your own LEDs in the panels, here’s what you need to know.

1. The LEDs should be low-power (~20-30 mA) super-bright types with a typical forward voltage 3.2-3.6 V. In practice, this voltage requirement means that you need to use LEDs from the "blue" end of the spectrum: white, blue, violet, pink, UV, or "pure" green. Using devices with a lower forward voltage (e.g., red, yellow, orange, many green LEDs) can create an unsafe condition under which the LEDs may release the magic smoke that normally would allow them to emit light. (Caution: Older yellowish-green/light green LEDs actually have a low forward voltage like red/yellow LEDs and are not suitable. If you are unsure about a given LED type, check the forward voltage specification.)

2. The LEDs should be matched in forward voltage and brightness as closely as possible, since the LEDs are driven in series. If you can, get LEDs that are matched and brightness binned at the factory. As a consequence of this matching requirement, we do not recommend mixing different LED colors on the same panel.

3. There are a lot of different kinds of LEDs out there that will work well in the panels. Our standard LEDs have a clear 5 mm, 20 degree lens. You can use LEDs in 3 mm, 5 mm, 8 mm, or 10 mm packages, clear or diffused lenses, with different angles of emission and different brightness levels. If you find an interesting variation, take a picture and let us see!

Optional variations:The LEDs are on a regular grid. If you prefer a more organic look to your finished product, you can play with the LED location and orientation a bit.

Trick 1: minor tweak Don’t push the LEDs quite flat to the PCB; leave them up by 1-2 mm, and tilt the angle of the LED after soldering. This will project light from the LEDs at different angles.

Trick 2: major tweak Physically displace the LEDs up to 1 cm from their holes by bending the leads in a zig-zag pattern. Note: since the LEDs are not firmly fixed in place, they can easily be damaged or moved if the pcb panel is not physically protected.

!"#$ !%#&

!"#$ !%#&

Step 13. Switch + Jack

If you are building a multi-panel kit: install the jack and switch in one panel only. Leave both locations empty for all other panels in the kit.

Where to put the power switch (#16) is more of a personal choice. It can go on either the top or (more commonly) the bottom side of the circuit board, in location S400. In either case, solder all three pins, much like the power jack. Either orientation is okay.

If mounting the bottom side, next to the power jack, mount it in the orientation where it’s further away from the jack, allowing a little more room to insert the power cord.

Alternative scheme: You can also use a different switch of your own choosing; make sure that it’s rated for 2.5 A DC, and use moderately thick insulated copper wire (16-18 AWG or so) for this application, and minimize the total wire length. Solder two medium wires to the two holes of S400 that are indicated by the thick border on the drawing.

IN ALL CASES, the switch must be mounted rigidly-- DO NOT leave it dangling in the finished setup.

#15 #16

It’s now time to add the last two components: The power jack #15, and the power switch #16.


#15

#16

There is only a single place-- J400-- for the power jack (#15) to go. Put it in place from the BOTTOM SIDE, and solder it in well on all three pins. The connector needs to be rigidly attached to the board. Hint: Start with the board upside down and place the jack in place. Still from the bottom, solder one of the pins lightly to tack it in place, then turn the board top-side-up and finish soldering the jack in place.

Step 14. Try out your Panel(Great! You’ve finished a panel... does it work?)

• Plug in your panel that has the power jack and switch, and turn it on.

- If everything works correctly, all of the lights should turn on at first and then settle down.

Test basic operation, & basic debugging

1. Test that each of the four quadrants is sensitive to motion: Put your hand one inch above the black phototransistor. It should see your hand moving.

- If one sensor does not work, check that the phototransistor is facing the correct direction.

2. Test that the infrared sources are working: Try the same thing in the dark, so that the only way that motion can be seen is from the IR source.

-If not, check the orientation of the eight IR LEDs.-Also, most digital cameras can see the IR LEDs on steady.

3. Make sure that every LED on the panel lights up and settles down to (fairly dim) without stimulus.

- It’s easy to identify which LEDs should light up-- they’re the ones on the neat grid. You can see pretty quickly when one or more do not light up.

- If NO lights come on, check the power connections;try flipping the power switch.

Big troubleshooting hint: 90% of assembly issues are caused by one of the following three things:

1. Component missing or in the wrong location. 2. Backwards component, e.g., phototransistor or LED.3. Bad or missing solder joint.

Before testing a panel: Carefully and thoroughly inspect the bottom (and top) of the board. Look for incomplete or missing solder joints, leads that need to be clipped closer to avoid possible short circuits, stray bits of solder, or other things that could possibly interfere with your board working.

The LEDs are driven as sets, or “banks” of five each, as illustrated. There are two banks of five in the top half and bottom half of each quadrant.

If one half-quadrant does not light up, there is probably a backwards or not fully soldered LED in that half-quadrant.

If 4 of the 5 LEDs in a bank are working (or are too bright) but one isn’t, it is likely that you will need to replace that one (bad) LED.

To test additional boards... you will need to provide them with power by plugging them into your working first panel. IMPORTANT: Read about connecting boards together in Step 15 (next page).

Step 15. Connecting multiple panels

Interactive LED Panels should be attached securely to a rigid base.

• Printed circuit boards are 12” x 12” square.• 6-32 clearance holes are provided 1/4x1/4” from each corner.• Panels are typically mounted on four 1/4” diameter x 3/4” long 6-32 threaded aluminum standoffs with appropriate screws.

• Allow a 1/2” air gap below and above the printed circuit boards.• Ensure ventilation. Circuit boards are not tolerant of water and condensation can be a concern in poorly ventilated areas.

Various types of frosted diffusing surfaces will work well above the panels; we suggest sanded, etched or frosted (but otherwise clear) glass or acrylic. Dark or opaque materials will diminish the responsiveness of the circuitry.

Step 16. Mounting panels

Last-minute miscellany:

• If you need to provide external power, use 24 V DC regulated, with at least 200 mA capacity per panel. The connector type is a 2.1 x 5.5 mm center positive jack.

• It’s obvious, but don’t get the boards wet. (Also, don’t feed them after midnight.)

•!Post your pictures in the Evil Mad Science Auxiliary: http://www.flickr.com/groups/evilmadscience/

• You should have extra components, like LEDs, left over. Find something cool to do with them.

• If you look straight down the lens of a white LED it looks different from any other type-- even when it is off, you see a white phosphor layer, rather than a wire bond. Knowing this could come in handy some day.

• We are very interested to hear your feedback on the kits and on the instructions. Please do let us know about any errors that you do find, ways that we can make the instructions more clear, or suggestions for future versions of this and related kits. (Thanks!)

That’s it- you did it!

(Appendices Follow.)

interactive led panel kits -...

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