instant youth gadgets

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Instant Youth gadgets By Alice Smellie PUBLISHED: 22:58 GMT, 10 November 2012 | UPDATED: 22:58 GMT, 10 November 2012 Once the preserve of dermatologists and cosmetic surgeons, many hi-tech anti-ageing treatments are available for home use. And, surprisingly, experts say that most work. Here, leading medics give their guide to the most innovative devices... THE ACID ACNE ERASER (Peeling Act by Jules Nabet, £109, julesnabet.com) THE CLAIM: An at-home facial ‘peel’ that removes dead skin and impurities, allowing skin to regenerate naturally. THE SCIENCE: Glycolic acid is derived from sugar cane. It dissolves the bonds holding the older layers of skin in place – which come away to reveal the new skin beneath. It has a very small molecule that is able to penetrate deep into the pores, killing propionibacterium, the bacteria that causes spots. HOW TO USE: Leave on for no more than five minutes. May sting slightly. Safe to use up to twice a week. This contains 20 per cent natural glycolic acid – anything stronger must be applied in a clinical environment. EXPERT OPINION? ‘With any peel you are damaging the skin. This is weak enough that it’s low risk, but strong enough to make a difference,’ says Dr John Quinn at the Private Clinic. ‘Even so, keep within their timings.’ Cosmetic dermatologist Dr Sam Bunting warns: ‘If you have sensitive skin, rosacea or melasma be very wary and seek professional advice.’ Hi-tech treatments for the home: Peeling Act by Jules Nabet, pictured left, costs £109 from julesnabet.com and the CACI Microlift Home Facial Toning Device, pictured right, costs £350 from cacimicrolift.com THE JOWL TIGHTENER (CACI Microlift Home Facial Toning Device, £350, cacimicrolift.com) THE CLAIM: Uses electrical current to firm and tone the face, targets lines and wrinkles. Celebrity fans include Madonna. THE SCIENCE: Computer Aided Cosmetology Instrument (CACI) technology has been used to treat stroke patients in the US. Microcurrent – a low level electrical current – mirrors the body’s natural electrical activity. Here, it is used to exercise facial muscles, tightening and firming them. Clinical trials have shown it to be efficient in treatment of wound healing. HOW TO USE: Place four serum-filled cotton buds into the four probes at the end of the hand-held instrument and select mode (toning or wrinkles). Use around jaw-line, forehead and nose-to-mouth lines three times a week. Takes ten minutes to do the whole face and 12 treatments to see results. You can’t feel a thing. EXPERT OPINION? ‘This is very promising,’ says Dr Bowler. But warns: ‘If you’ve had recent Botox wait at least two weeks before trying this.’ THE 'TORTURING' SKIN SMOOTHER (Titanium Dermaroller by Medik8, £50, skinbrands.co.uk) THE CLAIM: A small rolling pin studded with hundreds of 0.2mm metal needles that is run over the skin. It may sound like a form of torture but puncturing the skin causes it to regenerate, plumping out wrinkles, smoothing scars, and evening out hyperpigmentation, cellulite and stretch marks on face and body. Angelina Jolie is said to be a fan. Celebrity favourite: Angelina Jolie is said to be a fan of the Titanium Dermaroller by Medik8 THE SCIENCE: A 2009 clinical trial showed that the Dermaroller helped the appearance of atrophic facial scars (which cause a depression in the skin – such as acne scars). HOW TO USE: Divide the face into areas – forehead, cheeks, nose and chin – and then roll upwards and across. Some manufacturers say it’s safe to use daily but most experts say use only once or twice a week. It may feel uncomfortable. Skin may look and feel red and raw after use, although this settles after a day or so. EXPERT VERDICT: ‘Controlled skin wounding undoubtedly has a positive effect on collagen,’ says Dr Mervyn Patterson, cosmetic doctor and director of Woodford Medical. ‘Clinic-use rollers have longer needles, which reach the lower layers of the skin where collagen is formed. Home-use versions have shorter needles, so are safer but less effective. It may cause minimal bleeding.’ THE PULSE HAIR ZAPPER (Philips Lumea Precision Plus, £449.95, johnlewis.com and Tria, £375, triabeauty.co.uk) THE CLAIM: Light-based hair removal at home. Treats face and body hair, including upper lip, underarm and the bikini line. Used by reality TV star Kim Kardashian. THE SCIENCE: Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) travels down the hair shaft into the hair follicle, zapping it and putting it into a ‘resting phase’, which causes the hair to fall out and the follicle to remain dormant for several weeks. Hair removal isn’t permanent but skin can remain smooth for up to six weeks in between treatments with sustained use. HOW TO USE: Shave areas you intend to treat so that the light energy reaches the root efficiently. Unshaved hairs may be burnt and smell unpleasant. May feel like the snap of an elastic band against the skin and possibly some prickling or itching, which may last for up to an hour. EXPERT OPINION: ‘We used this in our clinics in conjunction with laser hair removal,’ says Dr Bowler. ‘Read instructions extremely carefully – used on dark skin it can cause serious burns,’ says Dr Quinn. Read the instructions carefully: The Philips Lumea Precision Plus costs £449.95 from johnlewis.com

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Page 1: Instant Youth Gadgets

Instant Youth gadgets By Alice Smellie PUBLISHED: 22:58 GMT, 10 November 2012 | UPDATED: 22:58 GMT, 10 November 2012 Once the preserve of dermatologists and cosmetic surgeons, many hi-tech anti-ageing treatments are available for home use. And, surprisingly, experts say that most work. Here, leading medics give their guide to the most innovative devices... THE ACID ACNE ERASER (Peeling Act by Jules Nabet, £109, julesnabet.com) THE CLAIM: An at-home facial ‘peel’ that removes dead skin and impurities, allowing skin to regenerate naturally. THE SCIENCE: Glycolic acid is derived from sugar cane. It dissolves the bonds holding the older layers of skin in place – which come away to reveal the new skin beneath. It has a very small molecule that is able to penetrate deep into the pores, killing propionibacterium, the bacteria that causes spots. HOW TO USE: Leave on for no more than five minutes. May sting slightly. Safe to use up to twice a week. This contains 20 per cent natural glycolic acid – anything stronger must be applied in a clinical environment. EXPERT OPINION? ‘With any peel you are damaging the skin. This is weak enough that it’s low risk, but strong enough to make a difference,’ says Dr John Quinn at the Private Clinic. ‘Even so, keep within their timings.’ Cosmetic dermatologist Dr Sam Bunting warns: ‘If you have sensitive skin, rosacea or melasma be very wary and seek professional advice.’ Hi-tech treatments for the home: Peeling Act by Jules Nabet, pictured left, costs £109 from julesnabet.com and the CACI Microlift Home Facial Toning Device, pictured right, costs £350 from cacimicrolift.com THE JOWL TIGHTENER (CACI Microlift Home Facial Toning Device, £350, cacimicrolift.com) THE CLAIM: Uses electrical current to firm and tone the face, targets lines and wrinkles. Celebrity fans include Madonna. THE SCIENCE: Computer Aided Cosmetology Instrument (CACI) technology has been used to treat stroke patients in the US. Microcurrent – a low level electrical current – mirrors the body’s natural electrical activity. Here, it is used to exercise facial muscles, tightening and firming them. Clinical trials have shown it to be efficient in treatment of wound healing. HOW TO USE: Place four serum-filled cotton buds into the four probes at the end of the hand-held instrument and select mode (toning or wrinkles). Use around jaw-line, forehead and nose-to-mouth lines three times a week. Takes ten minutes to do the whole face and 12 treatments to see results. You can’t feel a thing. EXPERT OPINION? ‘This is very promising,’ says Dr Bowler. But warns: ‘If you’ve had recent Botox wait at least two weeks before trying this.’ THE 'TORTURING' SKIN SMOOTHER (Titanium Dermaroller by Medik8, £50, skinbrands.co.uk) THE CLAIM: A small rolling pin studded with hundreds of 0.2mm metal needles that is run over the skin. It may sound like a form of torture but puncturing the skin causes it to regenerate, plumping out wrinkles, smoothing scars, and evening out hyperpigmentation, cellulite and stretch marks on face and body. Angelina Jolie is said to be a fan. Celebrity favourite: Angelina Jolie is said to be a fan of the Titanium Dermaroller by Medik8 THE SCIENCE: A 2009 clinical trial showed that the Dermaroller helped the appearance of atrophic facial scars (which cause a depression in the skin – such as acne scars). HOW TO USE: Divide the face into areas – forehead, cheeks, nose and chin – and then roll upwards and across. Some manufacturers say it’s safe to use daily but most experts say use only once or twice a week. It may feel uncomfortable. Skin may look and feel red and raw after use, although this settles after a day or so. EXPERT VERDICT: ‘Controlled skin wounding undoubtedly has a positive effect on collagen,’ says Dr Mervyn Patterson, cosmetic doctor and director of Woodford Medical. ‘Clinic-use rollers have longer needles, which reach the lower layers of the skin where collagen is formed. Home-use versions have shorter needles, so are safer but less effective. It may cause minimal bleeding.’ THE PULSE HAIR ZAPPER (Philips Lumea Precision Plus, £449.95, johnlewis.com and Tria, £375, triabeauty.co.uk) THE CLAIM: Light-based hair removal at home. Treats face and body hair, including upper lip, underarm and the bikini line. Used by reality TV star Kim Kardashian. THE SCIENCE: Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) travels down the hair shaft into the hair follicle, zapping it and putting it into a ‘resting phase’, which causes the hair to fall out and the follicle to remain dormant for several weeks. Hair removal isn’t permanent but skin can remain smooth for up to six weeks in between treatments with sustained use. HOW TO USE: Shave areas you intend to treat so that the light energy reaches the root efficiently. Unshaved hairs may be burnt and smell unpleasant. May feel like the snap of an elastic band against the skin and possibly some prickling or itching, which may last for up to an hour. EXPERT OPINION: ‘We used this in our clinics in conjunction with laser hair removal,’ says Dr Bowler. ‘Read instructions extremely carefully – used on dark skin it can cause serious burns,’ says Dr Quinn. Read the instructions carefully: The Philips Lumea Precision Plus costs £449.95 from johnlewis.com

Page 2: Instant Youth Gadgets

THE ULTRASOUNIC FLAB MELTER (CaviSculpt, £1,499, cavisculpt.com) THE CLAIM: CaviSculpt uses ultrasound waves to gently heat up the treatment area. Bubbles are created in fat cells causing them to expand and implode. Produces immediate results of a loss of up to 3in after just one session. THE SCIENCE: There is good clinical evidence for ultrasound technology, which is approved by regulators both in Europe and the US. Clinical trials were conducted last year. Weight loss aid: The CaviSculpt costs £1,499 from cavisculpt.com and uses ultrasound waves to melt fat HOW TO USE: Apply the transmission gel to conduct the current. The head of the machine will feel warm – keep it moving to avoid burning the skin. Only do two treatments per week for up to 30 minutes a time. EXPERT OPINION: ‘If you are delivering ultrasound therapy strong enough to melt fat then it shouldn’t be in a home,’ says Dr Patterson. ‘This needs professional supervision or there is the potential for serious injury.’ ‘This should be performed in the clinic – as there is a potential for burning,’ says Dr Bunting. ‘If energy levels are low enough for it to be considered safe for home use, it’s unlikely you’ll get results. Invest in a consultation with a plastic surgeon.’ A home skin plumper: The ReAura by Philips costs £800 from philips.co.uk THE LASER SKIN REJUVENATOR (ReAura by Philips, £800, philips.co.uk) THE CLAIM: Laser light delivered from a hand-held device boosts collagen, plumping up skin on the face, decolletage and backs of hands. Also significantly reduces the appearance of sun and age spots. Users also claim reduction of spider veins. THE SCIENCE: Microscopic laser beams pass through the dermis (top layer of skin) into the epidermis (lower layer). This triggers cell renewal. New cells contain more collagen which plumps out the skin and pigmented cells are pushed up and out to give a more even skin-tone. HOW TO USE: Use for ten minutes twice weekly for eight weeks. Testers have commented that it may be uncomfortable and skin is left red. EXPERT OPINION: ‘It’s similar technology to Fraxel, a clinical laser treatment that is used to treat the signs of ageing, including fine lines and wrinkles and pigmentation,’ says Dr Quinn. ‘The technology produces a real reaction,’ says Dr Bowler. ‘Using this will make skin softer and smoother. The results are impressive, though I’m not sure it’s strong enough to even out wrinkles.’ Dr Bunting adds: ‘As long as there is no redness the second time you use treatment, have it twice a week, with a mini of 48 hours in between.’ THE ENZYME BINGO-WING BUSTER (ageLOC Edition Nu Skin Galvanic Spa System II, £272.09, naturalwrinkleiron.co.uk) Getting red carpet ready: The ageLOC Edition Nu Skin Galvanic Spa System II, which costs £272.09 from naturalwrinkleiron.co.uk, is used by Brad Pitt and Nicole Kidman before premieres THE CLAIM: Galvanic – or electric – current is used to massage active ingredients into the skin. Works in conjunction with serums containing the ageLOC ingredient on face and body to reduce cellulite, bingo wings and wrinkly decolletage. Used by Brad Pitt, right, and Nicole Kidman before premieres to ‘iron out’ their skin. THE SCIENCE: Serums inhibit the action of a naturally occurring enzyme called arNOX (Age-related NADH Oxidase) which damages cell health, in particular the proteins collagen and elastin which give skin firmness. A pilot study conducted at America’s Stanford University investigated levels of arNOX – high levels of which contributed to people looking an average of seven years older. It’s suggested that arNOX inhibitors may help with skin appearance. HOW TO USE: Apply the relevant serum and move the instrument slowly over the chosen area. You can’t feel anything. Safe to use up to three times a week. EXPERT OPINION: ‘I recently attended a conference about cellulite,’ says Dr Bowler. ‘ageLOC was not one of the ingredients mentioned. However, cellulite is partly a vascular condition and stimulating blood flow via the electrical current and massage action may improve it.’ Dr Bunting said: ‘It might also be feasible to improve the skin over the decolletage. 'This unlikely to cause any problems. Follow their instructions closely.’