Insider’s guide to Rio de Janeiro

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Rio is probably South America’s most famous city. It is definitely the most exciting. Warm tropical climate, spectacular scenery, thrilling nightlife and alive with the sound of the samba!

But Rio can be a hard nut to crack for outsiders. Where do you go for the best time, great food, delicious drinks, and good company? Which neighbourhood is right for you, and which are the places you should avoid? Is the crime as bad as everyone says?

Fortunately for nomads, the people who know the answers to these questions are Rio’s greatest asset – it’s people.

Cariocas, as Rio locals are called – are friendly, welcoming, open and full to the brim with their love for life.

João Marcelo Souza is a Carioca, and he’s passionate about sharing his city with the peoples of the world, so we’ve asked him to prepare this Insider’s Guide to Rio.

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Rio historyRio de Janeiro (literally “January River”) was officially discovered on January 1st 1502, when the Portuguese explorer Gaspar de Lemos assumed he had found the mouth of a river… it was actually Guanabara Bay. Rio soon became the main export route for gold and precious stones.

The arrival of the Portuguese Royal Family completely transformed the city, influencing the rest of Brazil artistically, economically, and politically.

Rio geographyRio is located in a tropical area with an extensive shoreline. It has several lakes, hills and a very dense rainforest close to a highly populated urban area.

Brazil’s 3rd and 4th largest forests are close by, the Floresta da Pedra Branca and the Floresta da Tijuca. The iconic statue of Christ the Redeemer is actually within the Floresta da Tijuca.

Many of the main open and free events in Rio take place on the beaches – this includes concerts and protests alike.

Understanding Rio’s districts and zonesThe city is broken down into the following areas:

Downtown Rio You’ll find all the main public buildings here including institutions, museums and private offices.

Zona Sul (South Zone)This area holds all the main tourist attractions – Copacabana and Ipanema beaches, Sugar Loaf, Christ the Redeemer… it’s all there!

Zona Norte (North Zone)This area is less explored than its southern counterpart. The main area of interest for tourists in the North Zone is the Maracanã stadium. But there are, however, plenty of other attractions that escape a lot of tourists. This region is of particular historical importance due to the settling of the

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Portuguese Royal Family here, but it is yet to be fully developed on a tourist level.

Zona Oueste (West Zone)This is the fastest growing area, with Barra da Tijuca being the name most tourists will have heard of. Any large events that require open landscape take place here. This is where most of the venues of the Olympic Games will be, including the Village and the Press Center. Barra da Tijuca is an underexplored region, but has a lot to offer.

Where to stay in RioIt’s a no-brainer that your best bet as a tourist is to stay in Zona Sul, surrounded by beaches and other popular places of interest. Although hotel prices may be a bit higher here than in other areas, it is certainly worthwhile to save time and patience!

Zona Sul can be compared to a European-style way of life; it is easy to navigate on foot, by public transport or in a taxi. The downside to this area is the sky high accommodation prices.

Barra (Zone Oueste) has more of an Americanized feel about it, with long multi-lane highways; it is very car-dependent. If safety is your priority, then this area is for you.

Getting around RioRio can be navigated by subway, bus, taxi, bike or by rental car. Depending on what kind of experience you are looking for.

Subway The subway is relatively easy to navigate in Rio. It runs on two lines, line 1 (red) and line 2 (green). There are no express routes meaning the train usually stops at every station. If you are planning to travel to the Maracanã stadium, the subway (green line) is strongly recommended – and buy a

return ticket to save time and hassle at the other end!

Taxi tipsIn Zona Sul, you’ll find taxis everywhere, the travel distances are short and the prices are reasonable, especially if you are sharing. You can also use Uber here. However, be careful to avoid “pirate taxis” from the airport. Join the queue for a registered taxi or have a car booked in advance.

Another taxi tip – look clean and dry when coming from the beach, otherwise taxi drivers won’t stop for you.

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Are the buses just for the brave?You could have a story to tell after an experience by bus in Rio. It has been compared to riding a rollercoaster – some of the drivers are insane. It’s not always clear which bus to take, but the locals are generally friendly and helpful so if you are unsure – just ask! The buses are generally safe to take during the day, just take all the usual precautions to avoid petty theft. It’s worth downloading the app MOVIT which estimates the time of arrival of buses.

Rio by BikeIt’s inevitable that you’ll come across orange bikes and stations around Rio. This system is easy to use, simply use the app (BikeRio) or

follow the instructions at the station – you can use the bike for an hour and can leave it at any other station. At just R$ 5 per day OR R$ 10 per month, it is a very cost-effective mode of transport.

Any point renting a car?It is only worth renting a car if you intend to go out of town and you want to save time. A GPS is recommended, although they often take you the quickest route and not necessarily the safest. For travel by car throughout Rio, it is much more cost effective to stick to taxis rather than renting a car.

Getting connected – digital Rio

Wi-fi ZonesShopping centers, stores and restaurants are usually connected and generally if you are a customer, you can ask for the password free of charge.

SIM cardsThere are four major phone companies – Oi, Tim, Claro and Vivo. There are specific sim cards you can get if you are a visitor to the country, these are usually stocked in

newsstands throughout the tourist areas – price usually varies between R$5 and R$10.

AppsUseful apps worth downloading include Bike Rio, MOVIT, Uber, Easy Taxi, 99 taxis and Air BnB.

Rio “must see” for the touristWe have compiled some must-see sights and insider-tips to ensure you make the most of your experience and don’t miss out on anything!

Christ the RedeemerYou can reach this famous statue by train (from Bondinho) or by minivan (from Largo do Machado and Copacabana). Insider tip: It is advisable to go on a weekday to avoid the crowds, and to buy your ticket online the day before www.corcovado.com.br. If you choose to buy the ticket on the same day as you want to travel, expect to spend a lot of time queuing. It is also advisable to go when the skies are clear, so check the forecast before you set off.

Sugar LoafBuy your return ticket for the cable car on the ground – you can’t buy any tickets further up the mountain.

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Insider tip: you don’t have to take the cable car to the first mountain, you can climb the first hill through Pista Cláudio Coutinho, on the left side of the beach. It is quite a steep 20minute walk, make sure to bring water with you.

Some recommend bringing a banana to feed the monkeys on the way, however, please note that it is an environmental crime to do so and the monkeys may also follow you for more food – although they aren’t dangerous, they can be annoying.

Like with Christ the Redeemer, where possible, plan your trip for a weekday to avoid crowds.

BeachesCopacabana is full of tourists, but unfortunately is also associated with sex tourism. Thre are several brothels and strip clubs which attract ‘gringo’ sex tourists. The seedy atmosphere also makes it a more dangerous place after dark.

Top Tip: Avoid Av. Atlântica in Copacabana where sex workers congregate. A high percentage are HIV-positive. Pick pocketing is rampant, and robbery of “clients” is also common. The same warnings apply to Prado Junior, Avenida Gomes Freire (Lapa) and in Praça Mauá.

Ipanema and Leblon are favourites of the locals but also becoming more popular among tourists. Arproador is popular among surfers, and it is recommended to stay for sunset when people traditionally applaud as the sun sets – yes, it’s that beautiful!

São Conrado is popular for hang gliding and para gliding.

Barra is known for surfing and kite surfing – the water here is colder, it’s windier and the waves break further out. Recreio is most popular with surfers and triathletes.

Prainha is a bit of a hidden gem, with no signs of the big city, it’s perfect for surfers. Without a car, it is quite difficult to access, but you can book a place on the “Surf Bus”. Like most of the popular attractions in Rio, it is best to go on a weekday to avoid the bigger crowds.

WaterfallsThese are somewhat unknown to tourists. Don’t go alone or bring too many belongings with you – it is recommended to have a guide…or at the very least…a map! These waterfalls can be found at the Jardim Botânico, Paineiras, floresta de Tijuca (Cachoeira das Almas).

Football in Rio - Maracanã StadiumIf you are planning to take in a game while you’re in Rio, save time by asking someone to get you a ticket beforehand. You can check the original price online at maracana.com to make sure you don’t get ripped off. Surprisingly, it isn’t worthwhile buying your ticket online as you will have to exchange your voucher for the ticket anyway. It is common for the queue for people who haven’t yet purchased a ticket, to be shorter than the online purchase queue!

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Touring Rio’s FavelasFor locals, favelas are associated with violence and social differences. But for tourists, it is an opportunity to see something different.

Going with a local guide is strongly recommended, they will tell you what social etiquette you need to follow. For example, don’t take pictures of people’s faces, and respect their privacy. Favela Dona Marta (in Botafogo) is recommended because it is small and safe, and it has an elevator (in case you don’t want to walk up the steep hills). You can generally find a guide when you arrive. It is also where Michael Jackson shot part of “They Don’t Care About Us”. The largest favela is Rocinha, but you MUST go with a guide you have pre-arranged over the phone or online.

Rio for the sports enthusiastRio has a range of sports to offer from beach volleyball, beach soccer, foot volley (you could be lucky enough to see some retired Brazilian footballers having a go at foot volley on the beach), surfing, wind surfing and sailing, to extreme sports like hang gliding and para gliding in São Conrado.

For the avid hikers among you, Leme, Sugar Loaf and Parque de Catacumba are safe to hike without a guide, but you will need a local guide if you want to conquer the Floresta da Tijuca waterfall, Pedra da Gávea, Pedra Bonita and Prainha.

If you enjoy a day at the races and fancy a bit of a flutter, The Jockey Club (race track) is a popular day out.

Cycling and slack lining are other popular adventure sports to have a go at in Rio.

Rio culture and historyFrom museums and architecture to literature and beautiful parks – there’s plenty to do in Rio that will enlighten you on the culture and history of this city.

MuseumsA 20th century building, the Theatro Municipal is often only photographed from the outside by tourists, but there are regular guided tours of the inside of the building – tours times as follows: Tuesdays to Fridays –12pm, 2pm, 3pm and 4pm and Saturdays and holidays – 11 am, 12pm, 1pm.

If you are looking for free exhibitions, these takes place at the Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil (CCBB) – there is also a coin exhibition permanently on the 5th floor.

From the Museu de Arte Do Rio, there is a beautiful view of Guanabara Bay.

In terms of variety – from archaeology and paintings to weapons and coins – the Museu Histórico National is your best bet.

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The museu National, not to be confused with the former, is considered one of the best of its kind in South America.

If grabbing a little history as well as relaxing and enjoying a beach view, then try Forte de Copacabana.

Some other museums/landmarks worth a mention include Casa Daros, Instituto Moreira Salles and Ilha Fiscal.

Famous Street Art in Rio includes, Escadaria Selarón and Arcos de Lapa.

ArchitectureOscar Niemeyer –the most famous Brazilian architect has several important creations in Rio, including Edificio Gustavo Copanema, Museu de Arte Contemporânea and Sambodromo.

ChurchesMosteiro de São Bento – this baroque church is located on a hill Downtown. Appropriate attire is necessary – no shorts or flip flops!

Catedral – Rio’s Cathedral is easily identifiable, since it has a conic shape.

LiteratureBiblioteca Nacional – the National Library was created by the Portuguese Royal Family

when they arrived in Brazil in 1808. By law, every Brazilian book must send a copy to the library. The guided tour is fun, because you can see some of the rooms which are closed to the general public, as well as look at some rare books, such as one of the size of a fingernail!

ParksRio is full of beautiful parks, whether it is simply to wander around and enjoy the

scenery, relax and have a picnic or to get a taste of the jungle, you’ll find one for you.

From the beautiful Parque do Flamengo (designed by world famous architect Robert Burle Marx, there is a great view of the Sugar Loaf.

The Botanical Garden (Jardim Botânico) is a must-see attraction, especially the “Jardim Sensorial”, which is dedicated to the visually impaired. If a nice picnic location is what

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you’re after, try the Parque Lage. For a taste of the jungle, organize a guide and get yourself to Floresta da Tijuca.

Live music in RioLive music is an essential part of Rio’s nightlife. Here are our tips for sampling the most authentic music in Rio.

Look out for a “Rodo de Samba” if you’re interested in authentic Samba. Or if it’s “Chorinho” you fancy, it generally involves a flute. Here are a few venue recommendations:

Pedra do Sal (close to the port region) on Mondays. The Pedra do Sal takes place on the street, and the only thing you pay for is your beer. Typical Carioca.

Bar Bip Bip in CopacabanaA bit of a heads up on this place may prepare you for what to expect. In room filled with pictures of prominent past performers, Alfredo (the owner) appears a tad grumpy and will not hesitate to chastise you if you are too loud or you interrupt the musicians. It is a self-service bar – take a beer straight from the fridge and pay when you are

finished. Embrace the atmosphere and traditions of this place and you will have an authentic and enjoyable experience.

Concert housesOpera or classical music – Theatro Municipal (Downtown) or Cidade das Artes (Barra)Famous Brazilian or international bands – Except for mega stars, where open spaces are preferable, the two main concert houses are Citibank Hall or HSBC Arena. Both are in Barra.

Samba experiencesMuseu do Carnaval – at the Sambódromo (Praça da Apoteose)

Cidade do Samba – a whole block located in the port region. Because of the rebuilding of the port region, it is temporarily closed.Samba school rehearsals – from November until February, samba schools do rehearsals (parties) to raise funds for the competition you see during Carnival. Sometimes they will offer a feijoada (typical Brazilian been stew) with caipirinha.

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Rio ShoppingNo doubt you would like to leave Rio with some souvenirs, here’s a little advice on where to go!

ShopsAs you would expect, gift shops near the hotels usually stock low quality products at higher prices. The shopping malls here are generally more expensive than the shops on the street – the most popular malls are Rio Sul, Shopping Leblon and Barra Shopping. It’s worth mentioning that these tend to be extremely busy when it’s raining.

Saara is a Rio shopping gem in Downtown. It is cheap and probably the best place to buy carnival costumes. Be careful though, as electronic items sold here tend to be fakes.

Street FairsFeira Rio Antiguo (Old Rio Fair) – The fair takes place in Lapa, on the first Saturday of every month. Many locals go here so the products are not solely tourist orientated.

Hippie fair – every Sunday in Ipanema – this is normally full of tourists.

Copacabana – in front of the future “Museu da Imagem”, you’ll find souvenirs daily.

Feira de São Cristóvão (Centro Luiz Gonzaga de Tradições Nordestinas) – the more curious traveler will discover this fair. If you have an interest in learning about northeastern Brazilian culture, then this spot is for you. Food, music and traditions – it’s all here!!

Food and Drinking in Rio Food and local cuisine plays a major role in the Rio experience. Here we have shortlisted some of the best places and foods to try while you’re in Rio. From self-service buffets where you pay by weight, to all-you-can-eat steakhouses…it’s difficult to go hungry! You can identify a traditional restaurant in Brazil by older waiters normally wearing bowties.

Braseiro in Copacabana is a local hangout; it’s a good idea to go with a Brazilian friend. Popular dishes include beef, sausages or chicken served with rice, broccoli, farofa (manioc flower) or chips.

Steakhouses are very popular in Rio, but Fogo de Chão stands out because they have a chart of the cuts of beef, so you know exactly what cut you are eating. This type of restaurant is referred to as a “churrascaria rodízio” meaning all-you-can-eat steakhouse. A popular saying among Brazilians is that

when you go to a rodízio you are “tirando a barriga da miseria” – literal translation: releasing the belly from misery.

Some other traditional food worth mentioning includes Brazilian finger food (salgadinhos) – try the coxinha, quibe and pastel. Tapioca, which is a manioc based pancake, you can choose sweet or savory fillings. Since Brazil is traditionally a sugar cane producer, it’s no surprise that the deserts here are very sweet, and there are some popular traditions sweets including brigadeiro and beijinho.

It is common for visitors to Brazil find the fruit here much sweeter than that in their home country – a good way of sampling some of the local fruit is at the fruit and veg markets.

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What to drink!Rio offers a lot of traditional Brazilian beverages, both alcoholic and non-alcoholic.

Caipirinha – this can be served in its original form which is lime and cachaça (sugar cane rum), or as a variation by changing the fruit used or the alcohol base.

Guaraná – this is a fruit from the Amazon containing a lot of stimulants. Guaraná extracts are often used as a base for soft drinks and energy, which can be compared to Red Bull.

Açai is another Amazon fruit which is a strong source of energy, often served as an icecream, it is very popular among athletes.

Green coconut water – you can find this at any beach. Note that it is worth opening it up after you finish it so you can taste the flesh.

Mate – this is a cold type of tea which is most popular in Rio. It can be served mixed with lemon juice or on its own. It’s easy to find at the beach, you just need to spot the vendors wearing orange and carrying two barrels! Eat a Biscoito Globo along with it and you’ll be a true local!!

Beer – the most famous Brazilian beers are Pilsen – usually considered weak when compared to European beers.

Where to drinkBoteco is the name for a local bar, where you can drink beer, snack on finger food and catch up with friends. For a real boteco experience, try and go with a local. If after going to Sugar Loaf, you fancy a place to chill, have a drink and some food, try Bar Urca.

Bar Garota de Ipanema (Girl from Ipanema) – if you are a Bossa Nova fan, this is was where the song was written.

Lapa is an area famous for its nightlife – the area caters to all tastes, and it draws a real mix of people.

Baixo Gávea is considered the “upper class Lapa”. More locals frequent this area that Lapa and many drink on the street, which is in fact legal in Brazil!!

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About the author:João Marcelo Souza

Joao is a Carioca – born and raised two blocks away from Copacabana beach during

his early years and now lives at Tijuca, birthplace of the Maracanã stadium. His fondest

memory of his childhood is going to Flamengo, the most popular club in Brazil, for

his sister’s tennis practices. He eventually became a “mascot” for the athletes he saw

everyday, specially the football players.

These days he’s a digital marketer, and uses his skills to tell the world about his

beloved hometown. The 3 things he loves most about Rio are to play frescobol (beach

tennis) along the shore, take a revigorating bath at the waterfalls in Floresta da Tijuca,

and the typical informal and easy-going Carioca flair.

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