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Innovative Technologies

Laura Pritchard, Kate Hargreaves,

Bryher Barker, Isobel Aston

+ Binding Machine • Designed for lingerie and sportswear fabrics.

• Eliminate stretch or create tension.

• Separate heating zones utilizing hot air, heated

chutes and heated belts to transfer heat to the

correct area to achieve a satisfactory bond.

• Positives are that it creates a good, comfortable neat

finish, available in various widths, colours and materials,

can bond to many different fabrics without settings

having to be changes.

• Negatives are that lighter fabrics are harder to bind as

the cool air blows the fabric out of line and it restricts

stretch.

Advantages Disadvantages

•Flat finish.

•Strong.

•Comfortable

next to skin.

•No stitching.

•Can hem or

join.

•Fabric wont

pucker.

•High risk.

•Glue doesn’t

always stick.

•Not good on

curves.

•Temperature

can singe

fabric.

•Expensive.

Ultrasonic sealer

• Can be used in conjunction with admel ultrasew welding machine.

• The very narrow welded or lockstitch seam is strengthened by

applying a 10mm waterproof tape to the seam.

• The HMI panel is used for setting speed & temperatures.

Maximum temperature is 750 c.

• Compress air required.

• Automatic scissor cut off & power save feature.

• High risk machinery.

Advantages Disadvantages

•Flat finish.

•Waterproof.

•Strong.

•Comfortable next to

skin.

•Wind resistant.

•Can be used with

Gortex

•High risk.

•Long process

•Not good on curves.

•Expensive to produce

•Can come undone if

temperatures aren’t correct

+ • Designed to apply the adhesive leaving a clean cut edge.

• The lay down machine applies adhesive film to the edge of a garment

and trims the excess fabric with the adhesive edge.

• While applying the adhesive film, the machine can set to pull in the

garment edge slightly to achieve a flat final bond with the film.

Advantages Disadvantages

•Flat finish.

•Strong.

•Comfortable next to skin.

•No stitching.

•Can hem or join.

•High risk.

•Glue doesn’t always stick.

•Not good on curves.

•Temperature can singe fabric.

•Expensive.

•Adhesive can come off during washing if not correct

temperature.

•Every fabric has a different tape and if it's wrong it

may not stick.

•Thinner fabrics can wave.

Feed of the arm bonding machine

• Designed for joining arms and legs and hemming.

• Suitable for sports wear, Lingerie and waterproof fabrics.

• Separate heating zones utilizing hot air, heated chutes and heated belts

to transfer heat to the correct area to achieve a

satisfactory bond.

Advantages Disadvantages

Positives are that it is a secure water

proof finish

negatives are that it has no stretch, if the

settings aren’t correct for the fabric it will

come undone and when two pieces are

being joined, an unattractive raw edge is

left on the wrong side.

Right hand knife film lay down bonding machine.

+ Ultra sew Ultrasonic welding/jig cutter

• Cuts and seals bonding textiles together without thread using

ULTRASONIC welding technology.

• The walking foot and positioning pin, hold the fabric in place whilst the

machine trims & welds the fabric.

• This type of seam is strengthened by applying a 10mm adhesive tape

on the ardmel MK 501 seam sealing machine. This can provide a flat

waterproof seam also.

• Capable of handling most types of materials with synthetic content

including laminated & coated 60% thermoplastic content is required for

a secure weld.

Advantages Disadvantages

• Small seam.

• Good strength

• Can be used on a

variety of

synthetic fabrics.

• The jig allows for

flexibility whilst

operating.

• Capable of

handling all

types of fabrics

with synthetic

content including

laminated &

coated.

• Rough seam left

over.

• Doesn’t allow

stretch, seams

crack.

• Can only be

used on +65%

manmade fibres.

• Not as strong as a

conventional

seam, can easily

be broken if not

at the right

temperature.

• ensuring no

fraying unlike

laser cutting.

+ Ultrasonic welder

Advantages Disadvantages

•Low risk.

•Can be used for decoration.

•Strong.

•No bulk or thread so

comfortable.

•Very low power

consumption

• No emissions

•Accurate

•Positives are that it can join

several layers at once.

•different patterns can be

created by changing the

wheel

•Fabric must be at

least 60% polyester.

•Can pull apart.

•Slow process

•Has to be set for

the correct

thickness.

•Not good on

curves.

•Expensive.

• Ultrasonic welding is an innovative alternative &

complementary method used with conventional

sewing.

• Fabrics are placed between the sonotrode and

the anvil wheel and welding continuously under

pressure.

• This machine has 4 different wheels which leave a

straight or decorative impression. Care must be

taken at seam junctions where there are multiple

layers.

• When welding continuously the fabric will be

subject to rapid changing pressure vibration.

• The ultra-high frequency vibrations develop heat

& this friction produces a molecular change to the

fabric beneath its surface.

+ Utility Table

Used in conjunction with the ardmel bonding

press.

This preparation unit is used for sub-assembly

allowing for realignment prior for permanent

fixing on the bonding press.

Accommodates pre bond-tacking for zips.

Hot surface.

Application: pre bonding zips, hems, seams,

trims & logos.

Advantages Disadvantages

Pneumatic high pressure

bonding press

• Designed for bonding textiles using heat and adhesives.

• Operated pneumatically by use of a membrane with interchangeable

heated top and bottom plates.

• Engineered using membrane technology that guarantees precise and

stable distribution of pressure.

• Compressed air required.

• Maximum welding temperature is 350 c.

• High risk Machinery.

• Applications: Bonding of flaps, pockets, flat zips, hems, seams & trims.

• Mainly used for active wear to create water, windproof, and seamless

garments.

Advantages Disadvantages

+ Laser cutter.

• Laser cutter can be used for creating decoration to a

garment and the construction of garments.

• If a Synthetic fabric is used with the laser cutter, the

laser will singe the thermoplastic fibers and stop the

fabric from fraying and create a crisp edge.

• Can be used with any fabric.

• Materials can be cut or edges.

Advantages Disadvantages

•Crated a nice pattern.

•Has great precision.

•Expensive.

•Does not seal all fabric so

may fray.

•May weaken fabric.

•The image you want to cut

must be very accurate.

+ 3D Body Scanner

• Scans the body to give accurate measurements

• Allows the designer to create garments to suit a

specific body type or shape.

• Can use the scanned image to help accurately draw

working drawings.

• Can pose in the Body Scanner to improve the wear of

garment and can be used for fashion illustrations

Advantages Disadvantages

•Precise

•Quick

•Information can be

transferred and applied in

different applications such as

the 3D printer

•The equipment is expensive.

•If the object being scanned

moves measurements wont be

correct.

+ Sewn and Seamless

Technologies 1. 4 thread breakout stitch- keeps stretch in fabric,

seams are flat but the stitch isn’t very attractive.

2. Pegasus Top and Bottom seam cover- very

attractive consistant pattern, different pattern on

each side but allows some stretch

3. Union special seam cover- allows very good

stretch, is dicreet on one side. Used to hide raw

edges and secure hems and turn ups in place.

4. Pegasus 3 needle coverseam- has some stretch,

attractive pattern, and can also be used to hold

turn ups in place, hiding raw edges as well as a

decoration.

5. Seam cover- good for covering seams, boning

and wires to provide comfort to the body.

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Secondary Research

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3D PRINTED FASHION

THANK YOU

ANY QUESTIONS?