innovative raw materials for the cosmetic industrydepartment/deptdocs.nsf/ba3468a2a868… ·...
TRANSCRIPT
Dr. Alexander Thiemann - Dr. Straetmans - Banff - 2014 1
Innovative raw materials for the cosmetic industry
2
Overview
Dr. Alexander Thiemann - Dr. Straetmans - Banff - 2014
Dr. Straetmans - Company profile• What do we offer our customers and manufacturers?
• What do we need from our suppliers?
The cosmetic market
Innovation of new cosmetic raw materials
Summary
3
Dr. Straetmans GmbH is a privately owned company founded in 1984 by
Dr. Udo Straetmans (Chemist, Ph.D.) and located in Hamburg, Germany
We are the founder and market leader in alternative preservation.
Dermosoft® has been the first alternative preservation concept available
to the cosmetic industry.
Dr. Straetmans – Who are we?
Dr. Alexander Thiemann - Dr. Straetmans - Banff - 2014
4
Our Business:
• Development and Commercialisation of cosmetic raw materials• Raw materials from conventional and renewable sources
• Our raw materials are produced by manufacturing partners
Dr. Straetmans – Who are we?
Dr. Alexander Thiemann - Dr. Straetmans - Banff - 2014
Manufacturer of raw materials
Manufacturer of finished cosmetic products
- Manufacturing know-how
- Manufacturing capacities
- Manufacturing regulatory know-how
- Cosmetic formulation know-how
- Cosmetic marketing know-how
- Cosmetic regulatory know-how
drstraetmans
Dr. Straetmans – Our business approach
Dr. Alexander Thiemann - Dr. Straetmans - Banff - 2014
Manufacturer of finished cosmetic products
- Cosmetic formulation know-how
- Cosmetic marketing know-how
- Cosmetic regulatory know-how
drstraetmans
What does Dr. Straetmans offer to its customers?
• an interesting portfolio of high quality cosmetic raw materials, no commodities
• profound technical know-how to support the realization of
modern cosmetic concepts
• reliable and service-oriented administration of customer demands
• long-term supply security due to early reaction on regulatory challenges
Dr. Straetmans – Our business approach
Dr. Alexander Thiemann - Dr. Straetmans - Banff - 2014
Manufacturer of raw materials
Manufacturer of finished cosmetic products
- Manufacturing know-how
- Manufacturing capacities
- Manufacturing regulatory know-how
- Cosmetic formulation know-how
- Cosmetic marketing know-how
- Cosmetic regulatory know-how
drstraetmans
Dr. Straetmans – Our business approach
Dr. Alexander Thiemann - Dr. Straetmans - Banff - 2014
What does Dr. Straetmans offer to its suppliers?
• Exploration of the cosmetic potential of the raw materials through an
excellent market access (worldwide distribution network)
• Realization of the cosmetic potential of the raw materials
• Incorporation of the supplier‘s raw materials into modern cosmetic concepts
• Accomplishment of the specific regulatory demands for the cosmetic industry
Manufacturer of raw materials- Manufacturing know-how
- Manufacturing capacities
- Manufacturing regulatory know-how
drstraetmans
• Creation on interesting new raw materials based on suppliers technologies
Dr. Straetmans – Our business approach
Dr. Alexander Thiemann - Dr. Straetmans - Banff - 2014
What does Dr. Straetmans need from its suppliers?
Manufacturer of raw materials- Manufacturing know-how
- Manufacturing capacities
- Manufacturing regulatory know-how
drstraetmans- Product synthesis know-how
- Technical product know-how
- Cosmetic formulation know-how
- Regulatory know-how
• Established know-how for high quality raw materials
• Commitment to support Dr. Straetmans efforts in the cosmetic industry
• Compliance with the specific analytical demands for cosmetic raw materials
• Exchange of available technical, regulatory and toxicological information
• Openess to manufacture specific cosmetic grades
• Sufficient production capacities
Dr. Straetmans – Our business approach
Dr. Alexander Thiemann - Dr. Straetmans - Banff - 2014
drstraetmansApplication Laboratory
Marketing
SynthesisLaboratory
Regulatory Services
Sales
CustomerServices
Microbiological laboratories
Microbiological Tests
LogisticsPartner
Warehousing
ContractManufacturer
Blending
Patent
IntellectualProperties
The organization around
Dr. Straetmans – Our business approach
Dr. Alexander Thiemann - Dr. Straetmans - Banff - 2014
11Dr. Alexander Thiemann - Dr. Straetmans - Banff - 2014
Pharmaceutical IndustryFood/Beverage Industry Cosmetic Industry
European Market Revenue (2011)
ca. USD 90 billionca. USD 204 billionca. USD 1285 billion
(Source: Statista)
• heavily regulated
• high R&D costs
• less regulated
than Pharma
• Less price-driven
than Food
• lower R&D costs
• highly price-driven market
The cosmetic market
12Dr. Alexander Thiemann - Dr. Straetmans - Banff - 2014
Marketing-driven Industry
shaped by many trends
“Natural“ is one of the most important trends
L‘OccitaneLavera Dr. Hauschka
Melvita
The cosmetic market
13
Innovation of new raw materials in cosmetics
animal plant
Cosmetic Function
e.g. Wetting agent
Building blocks
New natural cosmetic raw materials
Dr. Alexander Thiemann - Dr. Straetmans - Banff - 2014
Unpolar chainPolar head
=> Capacity to lower the surface tension of a liquid and thus to increase its
ability to spread across or penetrate into the skin.
Oil Phase
Water
Cell
Antimicrobial mechanism
OHOH
O
O
Wetting agents interact with cellular wall of microbes
Wetting agent destabilize microbial cell wall.
Wetting agents
Unpolar chainPolar head
Dr. Alexander Thiemann - Dr. Straetmans - Banff - 2014
Building blocks from biomass feedstocks
Glycerin Caprylic acidHydrolysis
Vegetable
+
Glyceryl Caprylate
dermosoft® GMCY
Condensation
16
Innovation of new raw materials in cosmetics
animal plant
Cosmetic Function
e.g. Emulsifier
Building blocks
New natural cosmetic raw materials
Dr. Alexander Thiemann - Dr. Straetmans - Banff - 2014
Oil phase Water phase
Polar head Unpolar chain
Unpolar chainPolar head
Dr. Alexander Thiemann - Dr. Straetmans - Banff - 2014
Building blocks from biomass feedstocks
Glycerin Stearic acidHydrolysis
Vegetable
+
Glyceryl Stearate
dermorganics® GMS SE
Condensation
18
Innovation of new raw materials in cosmetics
animal plant
Cosmetic Function
e.g. Emollient
Building blocks
New natural cosmetic raw materials
Dr. Alexander Thiemann - Dr. Straetmans - Banff - 2014
Unpolar chainPolar head
=> Capacity to improve the sensorial properties of skin care formulations
Light oils which enter the skin, fill in gaps in the surface skin, assist in skin
repair.
Polar head
Unpolar chainPolar head
Dr. Alexander Thiemann - Dr. Straetmans - Banff - 2014
Building blocks from biomass feedstocks
Glycerin Stearic acid
Vegetable
+
Glyceryl Stearate
Condensation
Condensation
+
Glyceryl Stearate Succinate
Succinic acid
starch
Fermentation
Polar head
20
Building blocks from biomass feedstocks
Source: US Department of Energy (2004) Top Value Added Chemicals From Biomass
Dr. Alexander Thiemann - Dr. Straetmans - Banff - 2014
21
Innovation in cosmetics
animal plant Petro
e.g. Emollient
animal plant
e.g. Anisic acid (multifunctional)
New natural cosmetic raw materials Natural cosmetic raw material alternative
Cosmetic Function
Dr. Alexander Thiemann - Dr. Straetmans - Banff - 2014
Alternative source + manufacturing process
p-Anisic Acid
22
trans-Anethole
O2 /
H2O2 / NaOH
Basil oil
patented process since 2007
p-Hydroxybenzoic acid
p-Anisic Acid
(CH3)2SO4
NaOH
Ozonolysis
Methylation
Natural cosmetic raw material alternative
Petro
Dr. Alexander Thiemann - Dr. Straetmans - Banff - 2014
dermosoft® 688 dermosoft® 688 eco
23
Summary
Dr. Alexander Thiemann - Dr. Straetmans - Banff - 2014
• Dr. Straetmans is always seeking for new partners in manufacturing
• Consumers demand for “greener“ cosmetic products (Source + Processes)
• Personal Care: • Ideal Market for innovative new raw materials
• Low volumes + Wider price ranges
• Large potential of new building blocks from biomass