Ingredients used in Cosmetics asAntioxidants, Free-radical Scavengers,

Antiseptic, Antibacterial, Anti-wrinkle, Anti-fungal Agents

VIKHYATI PATEL15MCT111

SEMESTER IIADVANCED SKIN CARE COSMETICS

C.E. I SUBMISSION

CONTENTS• INTRODUCTION

• TYPES OF COSMETICS

• ANTIOXIDANTS AND FREE-RADICAL SCAVENGERS

• ANTISEPTIC AGENTS

• ANTIBACTERIAL AND ANTIFUNGAL AGENTS

• ANTIWRINKLE AGENTS

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INTRODUCTION

• USFDA defines cosmetics as “anything intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance without affecting the body's structure or functions.”

• The word cosmetics derives from the Greek word meaning "technique of dress and ornament"

3https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosmetics

TYPES OF COSMETICS

4http://www.bidnessetc.com/subindustry/cosmetic/overview/

ANTIOXIDANTS AND FREE RADICAL SCAVENGERS

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• An antioxidant is a molecule that inhibits the oxidation of other molecules. • Oxidation is a chemical reaction that can produce free radicals, leading to chain

reactions that may damage cells.• Antioxidants are found in many foods, including fruits and vegetables. They are also

available as dietary supplements.• FREE RADICAL: A free radical is an atom, molecule, or compound that is highly

reactive as it attempts to pair up with other molecules, atoms, or even individual electrons to create a stable compound. Any element that has an unpaired electron in its outermost shell is considered to possess a "free radical“. It is an atom that has lost an electron and is left with an unpaired electron. Free radicals are highly reactive and can cause damage to molecules in the cell.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antioxidant

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Radicals and ROS:

• ROS are main source of oxidative damage• Oxidative stress in one the major reason for many degenerative

diseases• Generate structural changes in DNA • Decrease DNA repair by damaging essential proteins• Ultimately can cause cancer

MECHANISM

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• Antioxidants are capable of reducing the causes or effects of oxidative stress .• Oxidative stress can be caused by environmental factors, disease, infection,

inflammation, aging (ROS production) .• In turn, these radicals can start chain reactions. When the chain reaction occurs in a

cell, it can cause damage or death to the cell• Antioxidants terminate these chain reactions by removing free radical intermediates,

and inhibit other oxidation reactions. They do this by being oxidized themselves, so antioxidants are often reducing agents such as thiols, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), or polyphenols.

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CLASSIFICATION OF ANTIOXIDANTS

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• Supplements that are marketed as having antioxidant activity include: -vitamin A (usually as beta-carotene), -vitamin C and E (ACE vitamins, often with selenium) - alpha-lipoic acid -carnitine -carotenoids -coenzyme Q -green tea extract -zinc.

I. VITAMIN E

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• It is the major lipophilic antioxidant in skin, and it is the most commonly used natural antioxidant in topical formulations.

• It is found in all parts of the skin, the dermis and epidermis as well as in the stratum corneum (SC), and is believed to play an essential role in the protection of biomolecules from oxidative stress.

• Delivery of vitamin E to the SC occurs in two different mode.:1) On the one hand, it is stored into differentiating keratinocytes and moves up into the

newly formed SC, which leads to a gradient-type distribution of a-tocopherol with decreasing concentrations toward the skin surface

2) On the other hand, vitamin E is secreted by sebaceous gland reaches the SC from the outside. In sebaceous gland-rich regions such as the face, this delivery mechanism is responsible for the enrichment of the outer SC with vitamin E .

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2040110/

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SOURCES: The best way to get the daily requirement of vitamin E is by eating food sources. Vitamin E is found in the following foods:i. Vegetable oils (such as wheat germ, sunflower,

safflower, corn, and soybean oils)ii. Nuts (such as almonds, peanuts, and hazelnuts/filberts)iii. Seeds (such as sunflower seeds)iv. Green leafy vegetables (such as spinach and broccoli)v. Fortified breakfast cereals, fruit juices, margarine, and

spreads. Fortified means that vitamins have been added to the food. Check the Nutrition Fact Panel on the food label.

vi. Products made from these foods, such as margarine, also contain vitamin E.

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2040110/

II. VITAMIN C

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• Vitamin C or L-ascorbic acid, or simply ascorbate.• Ascorbic acid is an essential to maintain connective tissue and bone.• Its biologically active form, vitamin C, functions as a reducing agent and coenzyme in

several metabolic pathways. Vitamin C is considered an antioxidant.• Ascorbic acid can scavenge many types of radicals, including the hydroxyl (OH.), the

superoxide (O 2), and water-soluble peroxyl (ROO.) radicals as well as other reactive oxygen species such as O3, and quenches singlet O2.

• In the skin, vitamin C is found in all layers. Vitamin C is depleted by O3, And UV radiation.

• One of the earliest discoveries of vitamin C benefits in the skin was the observation that it stimulates collagen synthesis in dermal fibroblasts .

• Also, vitamin C is essential in the formation of competent barrier lipids in reconstructed human epidermis . • Systemic application of vitamin C in combination with vitamin E protected against UV-induced erythema in humans .

13http://www.top10homeremedies.com/kitchen-ingredients/10-best-natural-sources-of-vitamin-c.html

III. POLYPHENOLS

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• Polyphenols are a structural class of mainly natural, but also synthetic or semisynthetic, organic chemicals characterized by the presence of large multiples of phenol structural units.

• The number and characteristics of these phenol structures underlie the unique physical, chemical, and biological (metabolic, toxic, therapeutic, etc.) properties of particular members of the class.

• Examples include tannic acid , and ellagitannin . • The “deactivation” of oxidant species by polyphenolic antioxidants

(POH) is based, with regard to systems that are deteriorated by peroxyl radicals (R•), on the donation of hydrogen, which interrupts chain reactions:

R• + PhOH → R-H + PhO•

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SOURCES

• Blueberry• Coffee, Filtered Sweet Cherry• Strawberry Blackberry Plum red Raspberry• Flaxseed Meal• Dark Chocolate• Chestnut• Black tea, green Tea• Pure Apple Juice And Apple• Hazelnut• Red Wine• Soy Yogurt• Cocoa Powder• Pure Pomegranate Juice• Black Olive

IV. THIOLS

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• Thiols are the sulfur analogue of alcohols• Glutathione (GSH) is a tripeptide whose SH group at

the cysteine can be oxidized, forming a disulfide oxidized glutathione with another GSH molecule.

• Physiologically, more than 90% of the GSH is in the reduced form.

• Glutathione peroxidases use GSH oxidation to reduce H2O2 and other water soluble peroxides.

• The synthesis of GSH by the human cell is stimulated by N-acetyl-cysteine (NAC), which is hydrolyzed to cysteine intracellularly. Moreover, NAC acts as an antioxidant itself.

• General drawback in the use of thiols in skin applications are the typical smell and the poor solubility in aqueous solutions below pH 7.

• Yet, several thiol agents have been tested for protective effects in the skin. For oral as well as topical application in mouse models.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thiol

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SOURCES• Asparagus • Bakery products containing whey, cysteine, eggs .• Bean• Curd/tofu milk• Broccoli, spinach, turmeric (though not high in thiols, it  is really

good at raising thiol levels) • Yeast extract ,cabbage • Cauliflower • Chocolate, coffee cheese of all sorts • Dairy products • Eggs • Garlic • Green beans• Mustard onions

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ANTISEPTIC AGENTS

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An antiseptic is a substance which inhibits the growth and development of microorganisms. Antiseptics are routinely thought of as topical agents, for application to skin, mucous membranes, and inanimate objects,although a formal definition includes agents which are used internally, such as the urinary tract antiseptics.

• Commonly used antiseptics for skin cleaning include benzalkonium chloride, chlorhexidine, hexachlorophine, iodine compounds, mercury compounds, alcohol and hydrogen peroxide. Other agents which have been used for this purpose, but have largely been supplanted by more effective or safer agents, include boric acid and volatile oils such as methyl salicylate (oil of wintergreen.)

http://medical-dictionary.thefreedictionary.com/antiseptics

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• Chlorhexidine shows a high margin of safety when applied to mucous membranes, and has been used in oral rinses and preoperative total body washes.

• Benzalkonium chloride and hexachlorophine are used primarily as hand scrubs or face washes.

• Iodine compounds include tincture of iodine and povidone iodine compounds. Iodine tincture is highly effective, but its alcoholic component is drying and extremely irritating when applied to abraided (scraped or rubbed) skin. Povidone iodine, an organic compound, is less irritating and less toxic, but not as effective. Povidone iodine has been used for hand scrubs.

• Hydrogen peroxide acts through the liberation of oxygen gas. Although the antibacterial activity of hydrogen peroxide is relatively weak, the liberation of oxygen bubbles produces an effervescent action, which may be useful for wound cleansing through removal of tissue debris.

• Thimerosol (Mersol) is a mercury compound with activity against bacteria and yeasts. Prolonged use may result in mercury toxicity.

http://medical-dictionary.thefreedictionary.com/antiseptics

22http://www.cdc.gov/mmwr/preview/mmwrhtml/rr5116a2.htm

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ANTIMICROBIAL AND ANTIFUNGAL AGENTS

• Cosmetic and beauty products are made up of ingredients that are biodegradable, and this means that microbes can easily break them down. This causes a product to become unpleasant and unsafe for consumers with an added antimicrobial.

• Preservatives are antimicrobial ingredients added to product formulations to maintain the microbiological safety of the products by inhibiting the growth of and reducing the amount of microbial contaminants.

• Preservatives are added to aqueous products to prevent spoilage, that is, to prolong the shelf life of the product, and to protect the consumer from the possibility of infection.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antimicrobial

PARABENS

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• Examples -Germaben II -Methylparben -Propylparaben -Butylparaben • Economical • Most widely used group of preservatives • Effective for fungal protection and some gram positive bacteria • Must be combined with others for gram negative protection • Allowed for both rinse-off and leave-on products • It was concluded they were safe for use in cosmetic products at levels up to 25% and

PH 7. Typically parabens are used at levels ranging from 0.01 to 0.3%.

http://cosmetictestlabs.com/five_most_common_types_of_preservatives_used_in_cosmetics.html

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Isothiazolinones • Examples-Kathon

• Broad spectrum effectiveness

• Best for Rinse – off products

• Effective over the entire pH range normally encountered in cosmetics

• Toxicological data has shown them to be non-carcinogenic • May cause skin irritation for some consumers

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FORMALDAHYDE RELEASERS • Examples: -Germall Plus -DMDM Hydantoin (1,3-Dimethylol-5,5-dimethylhydantoin Glydant) -Imadozolidinyl Urea -Diazolidinyl Urea • Effective for bacteria, weak fungal efficacy • Releases formaldehyde as needed so maintains low levels • The use of formaldehyde-releasing preservatives ensures that the actual level of free formaldehyde in the products is always very low, yet sufficient to ensure microbial inhibition.

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PHENOXYETHANOL • Examples -Optiphen, Optiphen Plus (contains phenoxyethanol combined with others for broad spectrum protection) • Often considered a "milder alternative" to traditional preservatives • Not broad spectrum (by itself)– often combined with caprylyl glycol, sorbic acid / potassium

sorbate or EDTA to create broad spectrum efficacy. • Good bacterial efficacy, best against gram negative bacteria • Very stable, not pH dependent • Allowed in most areas up to 1%, though found to be non-irritating or sensitizing up to 2.2% • Concerns of carcinogenic activity

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ORGANIC ACIDS • Examples -Benzoic Acid / Sodium Benzoate -Sorbic Acid / Potassium sorbate -Levulinic Acid -Anisic Acid • Higher use levels to be effective leading to higher costs .• Aqueous base required. • Effective against most fungi with weak efficacy against bacteria. • Often combined with other organic acids or diazolidinyl urea (DU) for broad spectrum

effectiveness .• Considered to be “natural alternatives” though they are often made synthetically .• Precipitate in high water content and become no longer active. • Require pH 2-6 .

29http://www.dcskinsolution.com/anti-aging/

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ANTI-WRINKLE AGENTS

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• Retinol: Retinol is a vitamin A compound, the first antioxidant to be widely used in non-prescription wrinkle creams. Antioxidants are substances that neutralize free radicals unstable oxygen molecules that break down skin cells and cause wrinkles.

• Vitamin C: Another potent antioxidant, vitamin C may help protect skin from sun damage. Before and between uses, wrinkle creams containing vitamin C must be stored in a way that protects them from air and sunlight.

• Hydroxy acids: Alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids and poly hydroxy acids are exfoliants- substances that remove the upper layer of old, dead skin and stimulate the growth of smooth, evenly pigmented new skin.

• Coenzyme Q10: This ingredient may help reduce fine wrinkles around the eyes and protect the skin from sun damage.

• Niacinamide: A potent antioxidant, this substance is related to Vitamin B-3 (niacin). It helps reduce water loss in the skin and may improve skin elasticity.

http://www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/wrinkles/in-depth/wrinkle-creams/art-20047463?pg=1

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