Ingredients 101

Presenter – Margaret LaPierre

About the Presenter • Licensed Master Esthetician • Master Esthetics Instructor • Holistic Health Practitioner • Certified Aromatologist • Certified in Osteopathy for Facial

Esthetics • B.S. Health & Wellness • Board of Barbers & Cosmetology

(Esthetics Seat) • Advisory Council for American

College of Healthcare Sciences • Presenter of webinars for ASCP

Formulation • What makes a good formulation?

o Restores all natural skin barrier defense o Prevent further deterioration of the skin o Restore the density of the stratum spinosum o Support the health of the keratinocyte

A Well-Balanced Formula Mimic skin structure and function Skin barrier defense system Be occlusive Antioxidant properties Vitamins Support enzyme activity

Slow down TEWL Saturating Restorative properties Repairing Balanced pH

Formulation (con’t.) • Skin structure is linked to product composition

o Texture – AHAs/BHAs, enzymes, Vitamins A, C & E, glycoaminoglycans, peptides, anti-aging properties, anti-bacterial agents

o Color – tyrosinase inhibitors, melanogenesis inhibitors, antioxidants, sun protection, anti-inflammatory

o Secretions – essential fatty acids, ceramides, delivery system, vegetable proteins, emollients, humectants, surfactants and preservatives

How to read product labels

Product Labels (con’t.)

Labeling Exceptions • If the cosmetic is also a drug (has to be listed first

and any alcohol used) • Ingredients that do not exceed 1% can be listed in

any order • Color additives can be listed in any order after

ingredients that are not color additives • Samples do not require ingredients be listed • Trade secrets do not have to be disclosed

o Trade secret can be a formula, pattern, device or compilation of information that gives a business an advantage over its competitor who do not know or us it

Incidental Ingredients • A substance added during manufacturing and

removed before the cosmetic is packaged (filtering aid)

• A substance added during manufacturing that is converted to an ingredient that has to be declared but does not increase the concentration of the declared ingredient (sodium hydroxide)

• A substance added for its technical effect in processing but not present in the finished product (defoaming agent)

• A substance added that has no technical or functional effect on the finished product (preservatives)

ACTIVE INGREDIENTS

Active Ingredients • FDA reserves the term “active ingredient” or “active

agent” to define drugs for use in the medical arena • The term “cosmeceuticals” was coined by Dr.

Albert Klingman who discovered Retin A • The FDA does not recognize the term

“cosmecutical”, the cosmetic industry uses this word to refer to cosmetic products that have medicinal or drug-like benefits.

• Cosmeceuticals/Performance ingredients have a positive impact on the skin to help restore the skin to a healthy state

Cleansers • Serve a dual purpose as an active and inactive

ingredient • Active ingredient as a detergent and inactive

ingredient as a surfactant • Cleansers as detergents can be easily rinsed off the

skin whereas cleansing milks leave a residue

Toners & Astringents • “Astringent” is technically a drug term • Most toners have a low pH (4.0 – 5.5)

Toners Lipid Replacements Lightening affect on skin or pore appearance (oily skin)

Derived from plants or animals (dry skin)

Witch hazel Potassium alum Lemon extract Citrus extract

Soy Sterols Soy lecithin Linoleic acid

Evening primrose Sunflower oil

Borage oil

Toners & Astringents (con’t.) Humectants Other Humectants

Attracts water, restores hydration (dry skin)

Butylene glycol Propylene glycol

Sorbitol Azulene

Chamomile Bisabolol

Glycerin (can be used alone) Hyaluronic acid

Collagen Elastin

Emollients • Emollients lie on the surface of the skin • Prevents water loss and TEWL • Can be occlusive

o Lanolin o Mineral Oil o Silicone – breathable, more lightweight

Antioxidants • Free radical scavengers to neutralize free radicals • Prevents oxidation and destruction of cell

membranes • Prevents the breakdown of collagenase, elastase

and hyaluronidase Resveratrol Super oxide dismutase Tocopherol Ascorbic acid Grapeseed extract Green and White tea Silymarin Elagic acid Hypericin Alpha lipoic acid Co-enzyme Q10 Glutathione Peptides L-Arginine Vitamin A Beta Carotene Curcumin Rosmarinic acid

Exfoliants • Mechanical – polyethylene beads,

shell or nuts • Chemical – AHAs & BHAs – helps to

breakdown the intracellular glue in the stratum corneum

• Enzymes – papain, bromelain, pancreatin, pomegranate, pumpkin, sweet potato

• Clays – bentonite, kaolin, green, Rahassoul, silica, hectorite

INACTIVE INGREDIENTS

Inactive Ingredients • Make up the main part of the product formulation

• Helps the product to have “spreadability”

• Helps the product to stay mixed

• Helps the product to have a uniform texture

• Adjusts the pH

• Preserves the shelf life

Water • The most common vehicle to act

as a spreading agent • Can be an active and inactive

ingredient • Deionized water – neutralizes ions

that can cross react with other ingredients or cause a product to be unstable

• Distilled water – minerals and trace elements have been removed

Emollients • Can be an active or inactive ingredient • Lubricates the skin • Helps to spread the other ingredients over the skin • Gives the product a soft texture

o Petroleum - protectant and lubricant o Silicones - leaves a protective film and prevents water evaporation o Wax - paraffin or beeswax o Natural oils – safflower, sunflower, jojoba, palm and coconut

Fatty Acids • Triglycerides – broken down by removing glycerin

from fat • Give a soft, firm texture to lotions & creams • Adds stability to the product • Can be comedogenic

o Stearic acid (animal fats) o Caprylic acid (coconut & palm oils or animal) o Oleic acid (animal fat and vegetable oils) o Myristic acid (coconut oil, animal fat, palm seed, vegetable fat) o Palmetic acid (plants and animals) o Lauric acid (laurel and coconut oil)

Alcohols • Used as emollients in moisturizers • Less sticky and thick than fats • Improves the viscoscity of the product (thickness &

liquidity) o Cetyl alcohol – emollient, emulsifier and opacifying agent; derived from

tallow o Lauryl alcohol – emollient derived from coconut and palm oils o Stearyl alcohol – foam booster in cleansers o Ceteryl alcohol – mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols o Oleyl alcohol – used in superfatted soaps and dry skin emulsions; derived

from oleic acid

Esters • Used in skin care products and cosmetics as

emollients and conditioning agents • Do not feel oily to the touch • Can be used to smooth the skin or hair • Serves as a protectant • Can be comedogenic • Esters end with the suffix “ate”

Isopropyl mysristate Glyceryl stearate Isopropyl palmitate Propylene glycol Ethylhexyl palmitate Cetyl palmitate Ethylhexyl stearate Decyl Oleate Isopropyl isostearate

Emulsifiers • Ingredients that keep water and oil

solutions mixed together by acting as a stabilizer

• An emulsion is a dispersion of two or

more immiscible materials o Oil-in-water – low volume of oil to water o Water-in-oil – low volume of water to oil o Water in silicone – with silicone emulsion (hand or

barrier cream) o Oil-free – solutions and gels

Emulsifiers (cont.) • Oil-in-water is the most

common due to lower production cost, ease of application and light texture

• Oil-in-Water (mostly water) – thinner viscosity (bottles)

• Water-in-Oil (mostly oil) – thicker viscosity (jars)

Amphoteric 9 Ceteth 20 Beeswax Polyetheleneglycol (PEG) Polysorbate Carbomer Carbopol Steramide

Surfactants • Surfactants give a product

“bubbling” or “foaming” action

• “Bubbling” or “foaming” cleansers can be easily rinsed off the skin

Sodium lauryl sulfate Sodium laureth sulfate Disodium lauryl solfosuccinate Ammonium lauryl sulfate Cocoamphocarbosyglycinate Cocamindopropyl detaine Alpha-olefin sulfonate Decyl polyglucoside

Surfactants (con’t.) • Cleansers with a high pH leaves a residue on the

skin o Sodium tallowate o Sodium oleate o Sodium cocoate o Sodium stearate

• Cleansing milks o Oil-in-water emulsion o Water-in-oil emulsion (cold cream) o Toners should be used to remove residue

Solvents • Solvents are used in products as a vehicle for the

product or other ingredients o Solvent – the liquid part of the solution

o Solute – solid part of a solution

Preservatives • Preservatives kill 3 micro-organisms in cosmetic

formulations: bacteria, fungi and yeast • Preservatives are added at the beginning of the

formulation process to make sure bacteria is killed as ingredients are added

• Natural ingredients breakdown quicker than synthetic ingredients and are more likely to be contaminated with fungi

• Preservatives are listed at the end because small quantities are used.

• Natural preservatives – grapefruit seed extract and tea tree

Preservatives (cont.)

Methylparaben Propylparaben Butylparaben Ethylparaben Imidazolidnyl urea DMDM hydantoin

Methylchloroisothiazolinone Methylchlorothiazolinon Quaternium-15 Diazolidinyl urea Phenoxyethanol

Sunscreen • Chemical

o PABAs o Salicylates o Cinnamates o Benzophenones

• Physical o Zinc Oxide o Titanium Oxide

• Alternative Sun Protection Mulberry Leaf Algae Lady’s Mantle Beta Carotene Vitamin E Meadowsweet

Lighteners vs. Brighteners • Lightener - Hydroquinone is used

in up to 2% concentration in the U.S. and Canada – it interferes with the process that causes pigment to form.

• Brighteners – are OTC active ingredients not approved by the FDA: Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, arbutin, kojic acid, bearberry, paper mulberry extract, bellis perennis and azaelic acid

Buffering Agents • Adjusts the pH of a product to make a product

more acceptable to the skin

• Citric acid is commonly used

• Other ingredients used to raise the pH of products:

Soothing Agents • Stearyl glycyrrhizinate (licorice root) • Matricaria extract (chamomile) • Green tea extract • Grapeseed extract • Ginsing extract • Allantoin (comfrey root) • Bisabolol • Calendula extract • Lavender extract • Horsechestnut • Azulene (extract from chamomile) • Mallow extract (marshmallow)

Natural, Synthetic & Organic • “Natural” ingredients are not regulated

and some products may have a small amount of natural ingredients, but still marketed as “natural”.

• Synthetic ingredients go through more

rigorous testing for purity and stability. • Organic ingredients are grown without

the use of pesticides or harmful chemicals o Certified Organic – contain 95% of organic

ingredients o Made with Organic Ingredients – contain up to

70% of organic ingredients

Coloring Agents • Certified and regulated coloring agents

are called “lakes” by the FDA • Colors are listed by name and followed by

a number assigned to the coloring agent and the metal associated with the chemical structure (Example: Red No. 4 Aluminum Lake)

• Organic colorants are synthetic • Inorganic colorants are derived from

natural sources • Natural Colorants are derived or come

directly from plant or animal sources

Fragrances • Are the most common cause of

allergic reactions • In the U.S. companies do not

have to list the source of their fragrances and will be the last ingredient named on the label

• May be labeled as “fragrance” or “parfum”

• “Fragrance-free” products may contain a masking ingredient to keep the product from having an offensive odor.

Reference Books of Interest

2817 N. Parham Road, Suite 201; Richmond, Virginia 23294 804.864.1226

www.skintherapyofvirginia.com skintherapyinc@yahoo.com

Blog - www.healthyskinisin.me

Ingredients 101About the PresenterFormulationFormulation (con’t.)How to read product labelsProduct Labels (con’t.)Labeling ExceptionsIncidental IngredientsACTIVE INGREDIENTSActive IngredientsCleansersToners & AstringentsToners & Astringents (con’t.)EmollientsAntioxidantsExfoliantsINACTIVE INGREDIENTSInactive IngredientsWaterEmollientsFatty AcidsAlcoholsEstersEmulsifiersEmulsifiers (cont.)SurfactantsSurfactants (con’t.)SolventsPreservativesPreservatives (cont.)SunscreenLighteners vs. BrightenersBuffering AgentsSoothing AgentsNatural, Synthetic & OrganicColoring AgentsFragrancesReference Books of InterestSlide Number 39Slide Number 40