Influence of Styling Products

Hair conditioners have an acidic pH value that

helps to close the cuticles.

In addition, most conditioners include caring

ingredients that penetrate the cuticle layer,

replacing lost moisture and helping temporarily to

restructure damaged areas, for example

ingredients such as panthenol.

Influence of Styling Products

Conditioning encourages the re-establishment of

hydrogen bonds in the hair as moisture content is

improved.

This has the added benefit of improving strength & hold.

The majority of styling products contain similar care

ingredients and as such are multi-featured, able to style,

condition and protect.

Influence of Styling Products

As with specific care products, style, definition and care

products are usually designed and created with a specific

purpose in mind; hence some products will include a UV

in order to protect from sunlight, whilst others may have a

cream-based formula that nourishes the hair, providing

easy application and distribution.

Because of this, some products can be combined in

order to benefit from a wider range of features.

Influence of Styling Products

Other examples include the ingredient dimethicone, a silicon-

based oil that helps to smooth hair down, reducing friction and

preventing undue wear on the surface cuticle layer.

Damaged hair is often negatively charged and this can

lead to ‘fly-away hair', a term used to describe the

way hair refuses to lie down due to static charge.

Influence of Styling Products

Mousse products in particular are ideal to counteract this effect.

They are positively charged, which helps to neutralize the static

effect, resulting in more controllable hair.

Mousse is also very light and easily distributed, hence

is perfect for fine hair.

Select product info for more information on product

groups, their composition, effect and action on the hair.

Influence of Styling Products

In general finish products are not designed to penetrate the cuticle

layer they are surface acting, influencing the hair by coating

individual hair shafts and ‘welding' them together.

Finish products that contain care properties, particularly

moisturizing benefits, are designed to partially penetrate the

cuticle and therefore help to rehydrate the inner cortex.

What Creates Texture

Texture and definition in hair is closely

related to how light interacts with hair and is

perceived by the eye.

Straight hair in good condition looks smooth

and sleek, whereas straight hair in bad

condition can appear dull and lifeless.

What Create Texture

This is due to the condition of the cuticle layer.

When the cuticle is closed and intact, light is

directly reflected back to the eye; when the cuticle

is open and damaged the same light is dispersed

by the multiple angles and facets of the open

cuticle scales.

A similar effect can be seen when looking at the

surface of the sea in still and then choppy waters.

What Create Texture

The texture effect is multiplied when hair is wavy, curly or styled.

Styling products to a greater or lesser degree hold the hair

together at various angles, thus creating different reflective

surfaces.

In addition, ingredients added to products can

help enhance texture with a matt or gloss finish.

Light oils in particular create a high gloss effect, whilst an opaque

cream or wax creates a deliberate matt result.

What Creates Volume

Hold is an essential part of volume.

Volume is created to a lesser or greater

degree by holding the hair away from the

scalp, thus making hair appear fuller.

What Creates Volume

Generating more space in between individual

hair strands also creates volume.

Naturally wavy or curly hair already has this

attribute built in.

What Creates Volume

There are many ways that finish products

can support volume, for example wax has a

sticky property that enables individual hair

strands to be moulded into shape with the

fingers.

What Creates Volume

Mousse is often used prior to blow-drying with a round

brush in order to lock in volume; this is normally followed

by the application of a hairspray to create added protection

and hold.

Styling rollers may be used in combination with a

setting lotion, to create a longer-lasting curl or wave.

The angle at which the roller is wound will determine how

much volume is built in.

What Creates Hold

Hold describes the strength of hair and its

ability to stay in a particular shape or form.

Extreme hold may be achieved using a gel or

hairspray (Super or Extreme hold).

These can set hard, however more natural

results are achieved with creams, mousses

or waxes.

What Creates Hold

All style, definition and finish products

achieve hold through either one or both of

the following methods: seam welds or spot

welds.

However, one method will be more

prevalent.

What Creates Hold

Seam welds are bonds created by holding

hair shafts side by side.

In doing so they create a structure that can

independently hold the hair away from the

scalp.

Typically these are found in mousse, gel and

wax.

What Creates Hold

Spot welds occur where hairs cross over

each other to create a supporting structure

that adheres the shafts at these points of

contact.

Hairspray is the most obvious example of

this hold type, creating a more natural

movement where required.

Styling Products and Damage

It is virtually impossible to damage hair directly

using styling, definition and finish products,

however the results of overuse or neglect may

eventually lead to damage.

Styling Products and Damage

For example, without regular washing a hairspray or wax-based product

will build up on the hair and may eventually become very hard, creating

wear across adjacent hair shafts and preventing moisture from

revitalizing the hair.

In addition, product accumulation may block the

opening to the hair follicles, preventing sebum from

travelling the length of the hair shaft.

The scalp in this condition is a common cause of pityriasis steatoides..

Styling Products and Damage

Cheap styling products may start to accumulate

even when the hair is regularly shampooed; in this

instance a specialist shampoo may be required to

completely remove all traces.

..

Film Formers

Alcohol-based Film Formers

These products contain a combination of alcohol and film

formers.

Film formers are long-chain molecules, which

form a thin film on the surface of the hair,

strengthening the hair from the outside.

Film formers are dissolved in a solvent, often alcohol.

The application of film formers onto the hair selectively cross-links the

hair, creating temporary hold.

Film Formers

The alcohol content creates a fast-drying styling product, since alcohol

evaporates much faster than water.

A fine film surrounds the length of the hair and seals it, which creates

protection from external elements.

This can include protection from sunlight, heat

and humidity, which helps ensure long-lasting

hold and volume.

Added ingredients, such as a UV filter, can increase performance

Film Formers

Hairspray

Hairspray can be dispensed either by aerosol or

non-aerosol pump spray. In both cases this

product comes in a variety of strengths from

medium to extra strong hold.

Film Formers

Hairspray

An aerosol hairspray achieves a fine and even

distribution through a micro-fine mist, which is

possible due to the propellant component

This ensures a consistent release of product for

the majority of the container lifespan.

Film Formers

Hairspray

Higher quality hairsprays contain amphomers.

These produce a netlike cover which forms over

each hair shaft, giving hold and elasticity.

In contrast, conventional sprays may produce

irregular distribution.

Film Formers

Hairspray

Benefits

•Long-lasting hold - film formers last all day.

•Protects from wind, rain and sun.

Hygroscopicity - protects against humidity.

Versatile and easy to apply.

Can be used in conjunction with other hair

products.

Dries without stickiness.

No obvious wet-look residue.

•Can be brushed out easily - allowing for restyling.

Film Formers

Setting Lotion

Setting lotion is normally dispensed by a pump

spray mechanism.

The composition can be altered to achieve

varying degrees of hold.

Setting lotion stabilises the form and shape of hair

during styling; with effective setting this can result

in a hold that can last for days.

Film Formers

Setting Lotion

The composition of a setting lotion reduces the

hygroscopicity of the hair and a fine silicone film is

created over the hair surface, which smoothes

and adds shine.

Film Formers

Setting Lotion

Setting lotions are ideal for creating styles that

require long-lasting control, such as pin curls.

They can be used to great effect on sensitive,

slightly damaged hair instead of using a more

permanent form treatment.

Film Formers

Benefits

•Long-lasting hold for all hair types.

•Adds volume.

•Hair is easier to handle during styling.

•Gives hair shine.

•Anti-static effect.

•Adds care ingredient.

Film Formers

Water-based Film Formers

These are applied in the same way as alcohol-

based film formers.

As they dry they become sticky and form bonds

between the hair strands.

It is this stickiness that helps deliver the final

outcome, enabling the hair to be moulded into

place before the product dries.

Film Formers

Water-based Film Formers

When dry, a hard film keeps the style in place.

Water takes longer to evaporate than alcohol,

hence this type of product can be more flexible

during the styling process.

Film Formers

Mousse

Mousse is normally dispensed from a pressurised

container.

Ingredients vary to achieve a variety of hold

strengths, protective and caring qualities, such as

improved combability.

Film Formers

Mousse

A combination of film formers and caring agents

produces an elastic, stabilising film, preventing

the hair from becoming too rigid, yet providing a

degree of hold and volume.

Film Formers

Mousse

Shampoo and heat treatments can change the

surface of the hair by introducing a negative

charge, which results in flyaway and

unmanageable hair.

The positively charged ion-balanced system in

mousse neutralises this, reducing the static

effect..

Film Formers

Mousse

The light, air-filled consistency of mousse does

not weigh hair down and leads to simple and even

distribution of the product.

Film Formers

Mousse

The light, air-filled consistency of mousse does not weigh hair down and leads to simple and even distribution of the product.

Benefits

Stabilizes hair without stickiness.

Easy to apply,

Non-drip application gives even coverage.

Variety of hold strengths.

Caring agents improve combability.

Gives hair a natural sheen.

Anti-static quality - manageable & easy to style.

Easy to wash and brush out.

Film Formers

Gel

Gel contains a variety of thickeners and the

viscosity of the product texturizes the hair, giving

a defined stiffness.

Gel can be used sparingly, for definition, or built

up into the hair to achieve a higher degree of

volume and hold.

Film Formers

Gel

Gel can be packaged in a variety of ways.

The use of different applicators depends on

personal preference and how the delivery of

product affects the required style, for example a

tube or pump dispenser allows more control over

amount, while a tub allows greater access.

Film Formers

Gel

Gel works by applying an adhesion between individual strands of hair.

Ingredients can be added to the gel to achieve further benefits.

Some gels contain additives to prevent the hair drying out

and aid faster drying during the styling process.

It is also possible to alter the composition to

achieve different looks, such as a wet look or high-shine finish.

Film Formers

Gel

Benefits

•Gives shape, body and strength.

•Film formers stabilize and give lasting hold.

•Can accentuate individual strands.

•Sculpts and moulds, even on porous hair.

•Coats individual hairs quickly without running

onto the scalp.

Film Formers

Styling Cream

Styling cream is usually dispensed from a tube

and contains a combination of film formers for

hold, and additives for care.

The film formers allow for easy combing and give

optimal styling, producing an elastic film which

creates hold.

Film Formers

Styling Cream

The high spreading capability of cream is due to

the molecular structure, which ensures that the

hair is coated evenly with micro-fine film.

Care ingredients give the hair shine and volume

without weighing it down, making the hair soft and

manageable.

Styling creams have less hold than gels.

Film Formers

Styling Cream

Benefits

•Easily distributed throughout hair.

• Smoothes surface of hair.

•Gives hair intensive sheen.

• Makes hair easier to style.

•Non-sticky.

•Improves suppleness, particularly on dry hair.

•Cares for dry hair or spilt ends.

•Does not make hair heavy or greasy.

•Easy to wash out.

Film Formers

Wax-based Film Formers

These aid hold by creating seam welds and, when

compared to alcohol or water-based products,

bond larger amounts of hair together. The natural

stickiness of wax bonds the hair together, creating

strength that produces an independent hold for

most hair types.

Film Formers

Wax-based Film Formers

Wax is not water-soluble and does not dry; this

helps create a flexible look that is also easy to

restyle.

Normally wax requires a shampoo to remove the

product thoroughly from hair.

If using wax regularly, occasional washing with a

specialist shampoo, is recommended.

Film Formers

Wax

Wax can be dispensed in a variety of formats,

depending on personal preference, type of wax

and what is most suitable for the desired style.

Hard wax products are often dispensed in a stick

format, whereas softer waxes are more

commonly stored in a jar.

Film Formers

Combination Products

Some products are a combination of more than

one product type.