industrial attachment of square knit fabrics limited by milon, mamun ,plabon (butex 36 batch)

1

Chapter 1

Company

Information

2

Company Information

Square knit Fabrics Ltd., a 100% export oriented composite knit textile unit established with the

commitment to care the Global needs for knit and casual clothing. The project has employed the State

of Art technology in its very pieces of investments. Aiming at the context of the changing Global

demand pattern, international environment on trade specially the withdrawal of quota system and

GSP and the availability of craftsmanship in the country, the project encompassed the knitting, dyeing

and processing of fabrics and ready-made Garments production to be available from one stop service.

The project is established in 2001, but the manpower engaged in the projects to carry out the day to

day business is all highly skilled, purely professional, vastly experienced. The unique combination of

organized Managerial and Technical term in one hand and latest, advanced and balanced technology

on the other hand made the project one of the top to be referred in this field in the country. The best

use of continuous development of Human Resources by providing them International Standard

Environment and equal opportunity is the keys for achieving comprehensive competence in all the

level Organizational Hierarchy.

Mission & VISION OF SKFL

SQUARE realizes the need to stake out a competitive segment in the changing global

market of today through technological excellence and human expertise. SQUARE is

committed to transpose its local success to the world scene.

To establish ourselves as a one stop source for the Global Knit Apparel market.

To satisfy and meet customer's expectation by developing and providing products and

service on time, which offer value in terms of Quality, Price, Safety & Environmental

impact.

To assure complete compliance with the international quality standards.

To provide the employees internationally acceptable working condition /standards.

To promote the development and best use of human talent & equal opportunity

employment.

To procure the most advanced & sophisticated technology suitable for producing desired

product.

To attain highest level of competence through continuous development of the

professional management system and to ensure complete transparency in all aspects of

business.

SKFL IS THE MEMBER Of BGMEA and BKMEA (www.bgmea.com.bd)

3

FACTORY LOCATION

The SKFL is located in Habirbari, Valuka under the district of Mymensingh, about 40 km distance

from Gazipurchourasta. A well developed Road Communication is there to reach the factory from

Dhaka City. The head office of the project is Located at Uttara.

Location of SQUARE from BUTex Source- Google map

Figure : LOCATION OF SQUARE KNIT FABRICS LTD(SKFL)

4

SKFL AT A GLANCE

Type Composite knit fabrics & garments (with dyeing & finishing).

(100% export oriented industry).

Year of establishment 2001

Address of Factory Jamirdia,Valuka,

Mymensingh, Bangladesh

Corporate office

Mascot Plaza,(11th-12th Floor), Plot # 107/A,Sector # 7,

SonargaonJanapath, Uttara Model Town

Uttara,Dhaka-1230,Bangladesh.

DEPARTMENTS OF SKFL

YARN STORE DEPARTMENT

YARN DYEING DEPARTMENT

KNITTING DEPARTMENT

PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL LAB

DYEING DEPARTMENT

FINISHING DEPARTMENT

QUALITY CONTROL DEPARTMENT

R & D (RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT)

Supporting Departments

Finance & Accounting

H R D

Utilities(C R P , ETP) Security Administration Marketing & Merchandising

5

DAILY PRODUCTION CAPACITY

Section Prod/Day

Dyeing 24 ton

Yarn Dyeing 7 ton

Knitting 18-20 ton

AN OVERVIEW OF MACHINE

Section No of Machine

Knitting 66

Dyeing 18

Yarn Dyeing 10

Lab & QC 35

6

1.4 Achievements of SKFL

SQUARE knit fabrics limited earned National Award for “National Environment Certificate” 2009.

SQUARE Fashions Limited received “Best Labor Friendly Organization” award by

BKMEA., May 2009.

7

Chapter 2

Manpower Management

9

Shift change

Shift From To

A 6 am 2 pm

B

_

2 pm 10 pm

C 10 pm 6 am

GENERAL SHIFT - 08:00AM – 05:00PM

General Shift is provided only for General manager/ Assistant General

Manager/Sr.Manager/Sr. Executive

Shift changes after a week

Section Wise Worker Distribution of SKFL

Section No of Worker

Fabric Dyeing 75

Yarn Dyeing 30

Knitting 115

Finishing 60

Quality 75

Physical Lab 30

Chemical Lab 15

R&D 20

HR & Admin 25

Others 35

Total Worker & Stuff 480

10

JOB DESCRIPTION

Responsibilities of Production Officer

From getting an order of upper level all responsibilities are on the production officers. They work

with a troop of operators, helpers, fitters etc. to finish the production in due time. In the meantime

production officers bear all hazards, problems. They have to explain to the manager for any type of

production hamper. So, all production activities and its success depend on the production officers.

Senior Production Officer

In a knitting factory a senior production officer plays a great role in production and man power

management who are production related. Here we enlist the duties of senior production officer:

Follow up knitting production

Regular observation of knitting floor

Prepare knitting order status regularly

Maintain the quality of the product

To help the manager and co-operate with others for fulfilling the required destination.

Production Officer

Production officer is the right hand of senior production officer and he is directly related with

production manpower and informs senior production officer time to time. Here are his listed duties:-

Follow up overall knitting production

Decide every m/c utilization during production

Recruit new labor

To inform the authority on the overall knitting production and make it financial profitable

Regular m/c maintenance

Maintain sub-contract orders

Help knitting manager & also guide the junior officers of the section etc.

11

Chapter3

Layout And Machine Description

12

Layout Plan

SKFL Circular Knitting Section

13

Flat Bed Knitting Section

Project layout

3.2 KNITTING MACHINERIES

The entire machines in the knitting floor are divided into 3 sections.

These are following:

1. Circular knitting section

2. Flat knitting section

3. Fabric inspection section

2 6 5 4 3

15 19 18 17 16

7 10 9 8

11 14 13 12

1

Stock

Office

14

Flat Knitting M/c

M/C Type Brand Gauge Bed Length

No.of

Needle No. of M/c Origin

Semi Jacquard Stoll 14 84" 1176 8 German

Semi Jacquard Shima Seiki 14 60" 840 9 Japan

Full Jacquard Shima Seiki 14 80" 1120 2 Japan

Total 19

FK-SJQ-005:

Brand: SHIMA SEIKI

Origin: Japan

Model: SFF152-T

Gauge: 14

FK-SJQ-003

Brand: SHIMA SEIKI

Origin: Japan

Model: SFF152

Gauge: 14

Semi jacquard

Full jacquard

15

Machine Description

Types of Knitting Machine Used by SKFL

SKFL produces only weft knitted fabric; therefore they use following kinds of weft knitting m/c:

1. Circular knitting m/c

S/J circular knitting m/c

Fleece circular knitting m/c

S/J E-Stripe circular knitting m/c

S/J Semi-Jacquard knitting m/c

S/J Electric Jacquard circular knitting m/c

Double jersey circular knitting m/c

2. Flat V-bed knitting m/c

Machines at a Glance

/C Type No. of M/C

Circular

S/J 12

Fleece 3

E-Stripe 14

S/J jacquard 4

Rib 7

S/J Semi jacquard 3

Interlock 4

Flat 19

Total 66

16

Specification of Circular Knitting M/C

M/C

No. Brand Model Dia Gauge Origin

No. of

Feeder

01 Mayer &Cie Relanit 3.2 ll 30’’ 24 Germany 96



04 Mayer &Cie MV4 3.2 30’’ 24 Germany 90

05 PAI LUNG PL-XS3B/C 30” 20 Taiwan 90



08 Mayer &Cie Relanit 1.6 R 30” 24 Germany 48


10 Mayer &Cie Relanit 4.0 36” 24 Germany 144



13 Mayer &Cie Relanit 3.2 ll 26” 24 Germany 84



16 Mayer &Cie Relanit 1.6 ER 30” 24 Germany 48



19 Mayer &Cie Relanit 3.2 ll 30” 24 Germany 96

20 Mayer &Cie Relanit SE 30” 22 Germany 72

21 Mayer &Cie Relanit SE 30” 22 Germany 72




25 Mayer &Cie Relanit 1.6E R 30” 24 Germany 48



17



30 Mayer &Cie O V 3.2 QC 30’’ 20 Germany 96

31 Mayer &Cie Relanit SE 30’’ 22 Germany 76

32 Mayer &Cie Relanit 1.6 R 30’’ 24 Germany 48

33 Mayer &Cie Relanit 1.6 ER 34’’ 22 Germany 54


35 Mayer &Cie INOVIT 2.0 ll 36’’ 18 Germany 74



38 Mayer &Cie Relanit 1.6E R 34’’ 22 Germany 54




42 Mayer &Cie F.V 2.0 30’’ 16 Germany 62


44 Mayer &Cie INOVIT 2.0 QC 34’’ 18 Germany 72

45 Mayer &Cie INOVIT 2.0 QC 34’’ 18 Germany 70

46 Mayer &Cie F.V 2.0 30’’ 18 Germany 62


18

SINGLE JERSEY CIRCULAR KNITTING M/C:

Brand Name: Mayer & Cie

Origin : Germany

Model : Relanit 4.0

Dia & Gauge : 36*24

Feeder : 144

MAYER & CIE S/J Circular Knitting M/C

Brand Name: PAI-LUNG

Origin : TAIWAN

Model : PL-XS 3B/C

PAILUNG S/J Circular Knitting M/C

19

Fleece Circular Knitting Machine

Brand Model M/C

Diameter (in)

Gauge Total

needle

No of

Feeder

No of

M/C

PAI LUNG PL-XS3B/C 30’’ 20 1872 90 3

Fleece Circular Knitting Machine

20

S/J Electric Jacquard Circular Knitting Machine

Brand

Model

M/C

Diameter

(in)

Gauge Total

needle

No of

Feeder

No of

M/C

Mayer &Cie RELANIT 1.6 ER 30’’ 24 2268 48 02



S/J Electric Jacquard Circular Knitting Machine E-Stripe Circular Knitting Machine

E -Stripe Circular Knitting Machine

Brand Model

M/C

Diameter (in)

Gauge Total

needle

No of

Feeder

No of

M/C

Mayer &Cie RELANIT 1.6 R 30’’ 24 2268 48 12

Mayer &Cie ,, 34’’ 24 2544 54 02

21

Rib Circular Knitting Machine

Brand Model

M/C

Diameter (in)

Gauge Total

needle

No of

Feeder

No of

M/C

Mayer &Cie INOVIT 2.0 ll 36” 18 2x2016 74 01

Mayer &Cie ,, 36’’ 16 2x1800 72 01

Mayer &Cie F.V 2.0 30’’ 16 2x1512 62 01

Mayer &Cie F.V 2.0 30’’ 18 2x1512 62 01

Mayer &Cie INOVIT 2.0 QC 34’’ 18 2x1920 70 02

Rib Circular Knitting M/C

(Mayer & Cie)

Interlock Circular Knitting Machine

Brand Model

M/C

Diameter (in)

Gauge Total

needle

No of

Feeder

No of

M/C

Mayer &Cie O V 3.2 QC 30’’ 20 2*1872 96 04

Interlock Circular knitting m/c (Mayer &Cie)

22

S/J Electronic Jacquard Machine

Fig: S/J Electronic Jacquard

Maximum Dia M/C:

For required or large double jersey fabric width

there the maximum dia rib m/c we have seen.

Dia*Gauge: 44*18

Brand: PAILUNG

Origin: TAIWAN

Open Width M/C:

For producing open width S/J fabric it is

used.

Dia*Gauge: 38*24

Brand: Mayer & Cie

Origin: Germany

23

Chapter 4

Raw material

24

Raw Material

Square Knit Fabrics Ltd. is a knit composite textile industry. In the industry raw materials for different section

is different. As for example knitting uses the raw material Yarn, Fabric processing department uses the knit

fabrics, dyes and chemicals again yarn processing uses the grey yarn and dyes chemicals. Following we

describe the raw materials used in Square Knit Fabrics Ltd.

Yarn:

Following types of yarns are used to knit fabrics:

Cotton yarn

Combed Yarn

Compact Yarn

Organic cotton

Sources:

The required yarns are supplied from:

Square Spinning Mills Ltd. (Bangladesh) ,

Thermax (Bangladesh),

NRG (Bangladesh),

Badsha Spinning Mills Ltd. (Bangladesh)

Ginni (India),

Nahar (India),

Special yarns are from:

Bardhaman (India),

Aarti (India),

Organic cotton – Indonesia.

The required grey fabrics are produced in this industry.

Blend

PC

CVC

Mélange

Synthetic

Polyester

Nylon

Acrylic

Elastomeric

25

Brand and count and their origin used by SKFL

Yarns are collected either from local manufacturer or imported from foreign companies depending on

order requirement like count required, yarn type, time allocations, quality requirement. Sometimes

buyer recommends where to collect yarn. The following table shows a rough illustration of brand,

count, origin of yarn used by SKFL.

Count Brand Origin Type 10/s 16/s 20/s 22/s 24/s 26/s 28/s 30/s 32/s 40/s 50/s 60/s

kamal Square Prime

Pahartoli Markup Thermex

Akbar Maksons viellatex

Bangladesh

Cotton Polyester

CVC Viscose

Mélange

10/s 16/s 20/s 22/s 24/s 26/s 28/s 30/s 32/s 40/s 50/s 60/s

Rajasthan

Bardhaman

Supper

India

Cotton Polyester

CVC Viscose

Mélange

75/s

150/s 200/s

PT Indoroma

Indonesia

Cotton Polyester

CVC Viscose

Mélange 20D 40D 70D

Creora (spandex) Investa

China India

Lycra

Dyes:

The following dyes are used-

Reactive dyes.

Disperse dyes.

Acid dyes.

26

Chapter 5

Production Planning And Process Sequence

27

Knitting Planning & Process sequences

Industrial based knitting needs careful planning & accurate process control to ensure quality and minimize

defects. At starting rearranging cam arrangement, resetting the m/c and knitting the first course & bringing it

down by knitting continuous course to cloth roller requires at least6 hrs. Therefore it is critical to plan

carefully and use the right cam arrangement, suitable most yarn count, to check quality during

manufacturing and quality inspection after production and ensuring that required quantity of grey fabric of

required quantity has been produced.

Production Flow-Charts

Executive director takes order from Buyer

|

Merchandiser estimates total amount of yarn of production

|

Knitting manager gets production order sheet

|

Senior Production Officer ordered by Knitting Manager and orders

Production officer and Technical in-charge

|

Production officer fixes up stitch length and GSM

With mechanical fitter

|

Definite operator operates machine in his full conscious and

Attention.

|

Mechanical fitter fixes machine if there is any m/c fault.

|

Supervisors keep daily production report and assure m/c is OK.

|

Fabric roll is checked by a troop of inspectors in inspection unit

And weighted

|

Final product to the required amount is delivered to dyeing unit.

28

Process sequences in Knitting Floor

After receiving production order sheet it passes From AGM through Sr. Manager to Senior Executive. Then He

informs Technical in charge. Technical in charge & leader of mechanical fitter troops combined together take

decision about m/c for production considering m/c condition, production capacity maintenance complexity etc.

Production officer fixes up stitch length and GSM with mechanical fitter. Supervisors check and record daily

production and make operators conscious about finishing in due time. After production of each role it is

inspected by 4 point system. Then if the role is ok it is send to grey fabric store.

Several Important Steps While Production

Cam Arrangement & Needle Set Up

Cams provide tracks for needle in a knitting m/c, therefore it is used to change the movement of

primary knitting element, needle to produce diff fabric design. While changing cam arrangement for

different fabric design it should be take care that-----

Cam track and needle butt position has been synchronized accurately.

It is also been synchronized with fabric design.

This process can be described as follows--

Each feeding position of circular knitting m/c produce a complete course and all

feeders in a complete revolution produce equal no. of walls as feeder.

Therefore a single cam box represent the sequence of cams in vertical direction

corresponds to a course of a repeat.

Each wall of repeat is arranged in different cam box gradually.

Lycra Feeding Method

In single jersey circular knitting m/c Lycra is fed in cylinder needle.

In double jersey circular knitting m/c Lycra is fed in dial needle.

There are two methods of Lycra feeding:-

1. Half feeder:

Lycra is fed to half of the active feeder in alternative way leaving one feeder

miss and next feeder threaded.

2. Full Feeder:

Lycra is fed to every active feeder.

29

Yarn Tension Control in Knitting

Yarn tension is critical in fault free fabric production. If tension varies among yarns almost every kind

of fabric fault can arise. Yarn tension can be controlled by---

By adjusting looseness or tightness of VDQ timing belt; if necessary changing it.

Adjusting the speed of cloth roller.

Adjusting fabric take down speed.

By adjusting cam position fixer wheel in individual cam box.

Keeping the m/c as clean as possible.

GSM & GSM Control

GSM is a technical term that indicates the weight of the fabric per square meter. GSM is a buyer’s

requirement; hence GSM control is very important which

In older m/c s is controlled by VDQ pulley. By rotating the upper disk in positive

Direction will reduce the pulley diameter and GSM will increase.

Pulley diameter Stitch length GSM

Pulley diameter Stitch length GSM

In modern m/c GSM is controlled automatically by the help of variable rpm motor and

relanit technology.

Points Needs to Consider while GSM Adjusting

VDQ pulley diameter.

Yarn count.

M/C gauge.

Cam position.

Take up speed

GSM and Yarn Relation

GSM of fabric also depend on yarn count. Following chart show a relation between GSM and yarn

count selection used in SKFL.

SINGLE JERSEY

Grey GSM Finish GSM Yarn Count

79,88 115 40/s

114 140 30/s

133 160 28/s

128,130,131,132,133,136 160,170 26/s

139,141,142 180 24/s

150,160 190,194 20/s

30

LYCRA SINGLE JERSEY

165 160 40/s + 20D lycra

170,172 180,160 34/s + 20D lycra

165 160 40/s + 20D lycra

170,172 180,160 34/s + 20D lycra

Pique

Grey GSM Finish GSM Yarn Count

136,139,140,141,142 180 30/s

142 200 28/s

Single Lacoste

180 220 30/s

190 230 30/s + 40D lycra

165 220 22/s

292 365 20/s

Double Lacoste

160 220 26/s

FLEECE

275 310 34(Knit) + 30(Loop)

243 300 34(Knit) + 24(Loop)

230,231,232,236,243 300 34(Knit) + 20(Loop)

260 260 20(Knit)+50D+28(Loop)

TERRY

268 340 30(Knit)+75D+20(Loop)

210 250 20(Knit) + 25(Loop)

202,203,208,210,211,212 250 20(Knit) + 24(Loop)

Double Jersey

RIB(1x1)

134 190 32/s

162,163,165 220 28/s

171,173 230,240 26/s

210 260 20/s

LYCRA RIB(1x1)

280 350 20/s + 40D lycra

360,380 350,360 34/s + 40D lycra

Interlock

240 260 30/s

183 195 34/s + 40D lycra

31

Relanit Technology

The technology of using vertical sinker in circular knitting m/c is called Relanit Technology. In this

arrangement GSM can also be controlled directly by this sinker. It is a modern innovation. It also

allows higher gauge. SKFL possessed several modern MAYAR & CIA circular single jersey m/c

having relanit installment.

Changes That Required In Case of Fabric Design Change

Cam arrangement changing.

Needle butt setting & needle dropping.

Using of different colored yarn in selected feeder.

Using of jacquard mechanism.

Size of the loop and GSM.

Types of Fabric Produced in SKFL

Singe jersey.

Lycra S/J.

Pique.

Single Lacoste.

Double Lacoste.

Fleece (2 threads, 3 threads).

Lycra Fleece.

Terry.

Rib (1x1, 2x2).

Lycra Rib.

Interlock.

P/Interlock.

Feeder Stripe (S/J).

Engineering Stripe (S/J).

Jacquard Knitted.

32

Steps to Increase Production

1. By increasing m/c speed:

Higher the m/c speed faster the movement of needle and ultimately Production will be increased.

2. By using m/c with higher number of feeder:

If the number of feeder is increased in the circumference of cylinder, then the number of courses will

be increased in one revolution at a time.

3. By using skilled operator:

Skill operator can utilize production facilities more efficiently.

4. By using Modern M/C With Advanced Features:

Modern technology like relanit, positive feeder etc. will not only increase production but also reduce

faults.

Types of stripe produced

Horizontal stripe can be produced in two ways.

1. Feeder stripe: In this, stripe effect is produced by using diff color yarns in diff feeder in an

orderly manner according to repeat.

2. Engineering stripe: In this, stripe effect is produced by gradually adding different colored

yarn in each feeding position according to repeat with the help of a device called ‘finger

mechanism’.

3.

Finger and Its Function

Finger is a device with the help of which in E-stripe circular knitting m/c selection of yarn is altered.

E-stripe m/c is installed with special feeding system, having fingers to allow the feed of several

yarns in a single feeding position and computer controlled cam and gear arrangement to change the

active feed yarn.

On circular m/c striping finger must change whilst needle cylinder rotates, therefore a slight overlap

of two interchanging yarn is essential. When a finger withdraws, its yarn cut free and securely held

for next reselection by finger blade or trapper. A newly selected finger of the same finger box is

introduced to needle line. Its trapper releases cut end of yarn and a yarn carrier feeds the yarn in

needle.

33

Producing Feeder Stripe

Feeder stripe can be produced in any type of weft knitting machine. In this, stripe effect is produced

by using diff color yarns in diff feeder in an orderly manner according to repeat. But there is a

limitation while producing feeder stripe. In repeat no of course must be equal or less than the no. of

feeder in the repeat.

For example let, a stripe, Red = 5 course

Green = 3 course

Black = 2 course

Total = 10 course

While producing this fabric in a 54 feeder m/c active feeder would be = 10x5 =50

The rest 4 feeder will be needle drop or, all miss cam.

Yarn arrangement would be, Feeder (1-4) = miss

Feeder (5-9) = Red

Feeder (10-12) = Green Repeat

Feeder (13-14) = Black

Feeder (15-19) = Red

Feeder (20-22) = Green

Feeder (23-24) = Black. And so on.

34

JOB CARD

35

JOB CARD

36

Producing Engineering Stripe

Stripe effect is produced by gradually adding different colored yarn in each feeding position

according to repeat with the help of a device called ‘finger mechanism’. In each finger box one of

each diff colored yarn is fed in diff finger. According to repeat the sequence of yarn selection is fed.

Then the processor calculates the sequence of finger selection and stripe fabric production is started. .

Different parts of Engineering Stripe m/c

37

Important Components of Circular Knitting M/C

Free Standing Creel

Each creel unit contains 8 stands. Therefore a

typicalcapacity of creel (8unit) = 64. It contains cones with

reserve cone for each feeding position. In case of E-stripe

each stand of creel is marked according finger number.

Positive Feeder

Positive feeders are those where yarns are driven positively

by any kind ofm/c gearing system. SKFL uses two kind of

positive feeder- one is for yarn and another one is for Lycra

feeding.

Yarn Guide

One or several guide guides the yarn to needle.

Yarn Guide

Standing Creel

Positive Feeder

38

Needle and Cam

Needle is the primary knitting element. Cams create the track for needle movement. Circular knitting

m/c has stationary cams arranges orderly indifferent cam box. In S/J machine there is one set of

needle, only cylinderneedle. In double jersey m/c two sets of (cylinder & dial) needle.

Cylinder

Needles are set in the groove of a cylinder. Cam boxes arerranged outside of cylinder.

Fabric Spreader:

Fabric spreader is stands which spread the endless tubular fabric in a sheet form of two plies which then

can be wound on a cloth roller with maximum efficiency and allows maximum fabric to be wound or

collected in folded form.

VDQ Pulley

VDQ pulley means ‘variable diameter quantity’ pulley that’s diameter can be altered by means of

relative position of upper plate and base plate.VDQ pulley consists of three main components:

Upper plate

Base plate

Pegs

Cylinder Fabric Spreader

VDQ Pulley

39

Important Accessories of Circular Knitting M/C

1.Start, Stop & inching Button:

Complete set of Start, Stop and Inching button at top of

each leg for ease of excess during operation

2.Ratchet Lever

It permits inching motion by a hand driven lever.

3. Sensors & Detectors

Circular knitting m/c is equipped with several sensors and detectors like –

Needle detector

Fabric detector

Ratchet Lever

40

4.Auto Counter

An automatic counter with display showing revolution of m/c (As for ORIZIO It indicates 1 count for

every 2 revolution) and provide facility to predetermine auto stop after certain revolution.

5.Fabric Take up Mechanism

Bevel gear mechanisms beneath fabric platform can automatically adjust with changing rpm and for further

control there is a adjustable gear and belt drive to control the take up speed for different GSM and style of

fabric and to control uniform take up tension.

1. Safety Guard Hatch

M/C cannot run with safety guards open.

2. Auto Lubrication

The automatic central pressurized oil sprayer can be adjusted at cycling time and quantity to

make cylinder, dial, sinker ring’s cam, needles and sinkers lubricated enough, besides it has the function

cooling and clearing.

3. Auto Fly Removing System

One or three fans on a rotating arm remove any dirt or fly on creel or m/c.

4. Air Hose

Every m/c equipped with a air hose which is used for further cleaning and feeding the yarn

through pipe.

5. Gauge

Gauge means no of needle per inch at the surface of cylinder.

Commonly Used Gauge

In S/J 24 gauge commonly used. But for fleece 20 gauges is used more frequently.

In Rib 18 & 20 gauge are most common

In Interlock 24, 28 are used mostly.

41

Changing Gauge of M/C

As needles are set at the groove of cylinder, therefore to change the gauge cylinder must be changed.

This process can be –

Remove the cam box and needles.

Unscrew the cylinder.

Replace the cylinder with a same dimension cylinder having needle groove of required

gauge.

Cylinder is leveled by ‘Dial Gauge Meter’. A deflection between 0-0.5 is acceptable.

Set the needle and then set the cam box in required manner.

6. Nozzle

In knitting m/c there are two types of nozzles are in use –

Air nozzle.

Oil nozzle.

Air nozzle is to flow air for – cleaning – Latch opening purpose. Oil nozzle sprays oil for lubricating purpose.

Gearing Diagram of Power Transmission of a Knitting m/c

Motor Cylinder

Cloth roller

42

Auto stop motion List in knitting machine

a) In Case of Gate open.

b) Yarn breakage.

c) Fabric cut & fell down.

d) Needle breakage.

e) Oil & air pressure problem.

f) Completion of selected target.

g) Take up problem.

Adjusting points of the knitting machine

a) Feeder to needle distance.

b) Dial to Cylinder distance.

c) Sinker groove to Cylinder groove.

d) VDQ pulley diameter.

e) Tension control knob on cam box.

f) Change pinion in take up roller.

Needle no

It denotes information about needle and usually expressed as –

(Needle length)×(Thickness)×(Position)

Spare Parts of M/C (Needle and Sinker) on Floor

MAYER & CIE (NEEDLE)

Groz-Beckert VO 140.50 GOO36+37+38+39 25, 26, 28, 29, 30, 57, 58

Groz-Beckert

VOTA 62.50 G0011

VO 62.50 G0011 Dial

VO 91.50 G0012

VO 91.50 G0011 Cyl

33, 34, 35, 36, 37

43

MAYER & CIE E-Stripe(NEEDLE)

Groz-Beckert WO 186.50 GOO1+2+3+4 68, 69, 70, 71, 72, 73, 74

Sinker

Brand Model

MAYER & CIE (Sinker) Christoph Leibers

Ruster

6552/40 (EUS)

351768.0

MAYER & CIE E-stripe Ruster 351233.0

sPAI LUNG (Sinker) Samsung 1136

Needle (Mayer & CIE 140.50 36+38)

Needle (Mayer & CIE E-Stripe 186.50

1+2+3+4)

44

Flat Bed Knitting Section

Types of yarn used

Count used

18’s, 20’s, 22’s, 24’s, 26’s, 30’s, 34’s, 40’s

Resultant count for different ply yarn

Yarn count No. of ply

18 3

20 3

22-28 4

30-34 5

40 6

Suitable gauge for collar cuff production

In SKFL normally 14 gauge m/c is used for collar cuff production.

Type’s of collar

1. Solid collar

2. Tipping collar

3. Dobby collar

4. Double lycra collar

Types of cuff

1. Solid cuff

2. Tipping cuff

3. Dobby cuff

4. Double lycra cuff

45

Dimension of collar & cuff

Dimension of collar & cuff is mentioned below according to an order sheet. This will provide us conception

about the dimension of collar & cuff.

Buyer name Order no. For Fabric Dia/size

Mascot F#0665/10 Collar FL-KN-COLLAR

43*9cm

44*9cm

45*9cm

46*9cm

47*9cm

49*9cm

50*9cm

Mascot F#0665/10 Cuff FL-KN-CUFF

28*3.5cm

30*3.5cm

32*3.5cm

34*3.5cm

36*3.5cm

38*3.5cm

40*3.5cm

Main parts of flat bed knitting m/c

1. Yarn guide

2. Carriage assembly

3. knitting system

4. Needle beds

5. Fabric take down

6. Control device

7. Display & operating elements.

cam

Figure : Side tensioner

46

Yarn feeding system

At first yarn packages are held on the package stand. Then it passes through the stop tensioner, side

tensioner,feeder,carriage and reaches to bed and finally on the take down mechanism.Some other necessary

parts are discussed below:

1. Stop Motion

At a bobbin end or in the case of thread breakage the stop motion switches off the machine

immediately. This prevents the fabric from being thrown off.

2. Side yarn tensioner

The side yarn tensioner monitors & tensions the thread. In case of a thread break or end it can switch off

the knitting m/c faster and store a longer piece of yarn than the yarn control unit for yarn tensioner. Heavy

yarns can be processed more easily with it.

3. Yarn feeder

The yarn feeder is selected with the yarn feeder magnets on the carriage part. The yarn feeder is carried

along by the carriage assembly unit the bolt is pulled upwardonly standard yarn feeder.

Figure: yarn feeding system.

47

Fabric analysis and production calcultion

Design, Cam and Needle Arrangement of Several Knitted Fabric

Single Jersey

Chain Notation

Knit Stitch –

Cam & Needle Arrangement

⋀ ⋀ ⋀

⋀ ⋀ ⋀

⋀ ⋀ ⋀

Knit Cam:

3

2

1

⋀

48

Single Pique

Chain Notation

Knit Stitch –

Tuck Stitch -


Knit Cam:

Tuck Cam:

⋀ ⊓ ⋀ ⊓

⊓ ⋀ ⊓ ⋀

⋀ ⊓ ⋀ ⊓

3

2 2

1 1

⋀

⊓

49

Single Lacoste

Chain Notation

Knit Stitch -

Tuck Stitch -


Knit Cam:

Tuck Cam:

⋀ ⋀ ⋀ ⊓

⋀ ⊓ ⋀ ⋀

⋀ ⋀ ⋀ ⊓

⋀ ⊓ ⋀ ⋀

4

3

2

1

⋀

⊓

50

Double Lacoste

Chain Notation

Knit Stitch –

Tuck Stitch -


Knit Cam:

Tuck Cam:

⋀ ⋀ ⋀ ⋀ ⊓ ⊓

⋀ ⊓ ⊓ ⋀ ⋀ ⋀

2

1

⋀

⊓

51

2 Thread Fleece

Chain Notation

Knit Stitch –

Tuck Stitch –

Miss Stitch -


⋀ ⊓ ⋀ -

⋀ - ⋀ ⊓

⋀ - ⋀ -

Knit Cam:

Tuck Cam:

Miss Cam:

3

2

1 1

⋀

⊓

_

52

3 Thread Fleece

Chain Notation

Knit Stitch –

Tuck Stitch –

Miss Stitch -

Cam & Needle Arrangement:

Knit Cam:

Small knit cam:

Tuck Cam:

Miss Cam:

⋀ ⋀ ⊓ ⋀ ⋀ -

⋀ ⋀ - ⋀ ⋀ -

⋀ ⋀ - ⋀ ⋀ ⊓

⋀ ⋀ - ⋀ ⋀ -

4

3

2

1

⋀

⋀

⊓

_

53

2x2 Rib

Chain Notation

Knit Stitch (Face) –

Knit Stitch (Back) –


In case of Rib gating

⋀ ⋀ ⋀

⋀ ⋀ ⋀

In case of interlock gating

⋀ ⋀ - - ⋀ ⋀

⋀ ⋀ - - ⋀ ⋀

2

1

2

1

⋀ ⋀ ⋀

⋀ ⋀ ⋀

2

1

- - ⋀ ⋀ - -

- - ⋀ ⋀ - -

2

1

industrial attachment of square knit fabrics limited by milon, mamun ,plabon (butex 36 batch)

Education

global knit apparel

dyeing finishing

factory location

mission vision of skfl

changing global market

international environment

processing of fabrics

global needs