industrial attachment of fakir knitwears ltd

INDUSTRIAL TRAININGCourse Code: Tex -4036

INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENTFAKIR KNITWEARS LTD





AcknowledgementAt first I would like to thank almighty Allah for giving me the opportunity to completemy internship. I have taken an opportunity to express my deepest since of gratitude andsincere thanks to my reverend teacher Prof. Syed FakhrulHasan,Chairman, Department ofTextile Engineering, Southeast University, Banani, Dhaka.I also thank toA.N. M. AhmadUllah , Co-ordinator, Departmentof Textile Engineering, Southeast University, Banani,Dhaka,for giving me the chance internship in Fakir Knitwears Ltd.

It is an auspicious for me a student of Department of Textile Engineering. One of theprestigious academic center of the Southeast University to express my deep feeling ofgratitude to the department and especially to my supervisor S.M.MasumAlam,Department of Textile Engineering.

Special thanks to go Mr.FakirAkhteruzzaman, Managing Director of Fakir Knitwears Ltd.For kind help extend to me.

I also thank to Mr.FakirMashriquzzaman, Director of Fakir Knitwears Ltd. I also thank toMr.SyedImtiajRajib of Fakir Knitwears Ltd.

I would like to thank Mr.S.M.Md. Fakhruzzaman,GM (Dyeing) of Fakir Knitwears Ltd.

I would like to thank Mr.Sultan Mahmud Hosseinee,GM (HR & Compliance) of FakirKnitwears Ltd.

1 would like to thank Mr. MdMojiburRahman, GM(Production) of Fakir Knitwears Ltd.

I would like to thank Mr. Md. Kashem Ali Khan, Manager (IE & Planning) of FakirKnitwears Ltd. for his valuable direction and special attention.

I would like to thank Mr. Md. Toriqul Islam, Manager (Dyeing) of Fakir KnitwearsLtd.

I also thank to Mr. Mohammad Din Islam, Asst. Manager (IE & Planning) of FakirKnitwears Ltd. for his real advice.

I am also grateful to Mr. Abul Basher Muhammad Suhas, Management Trainee & Mr.Md. TanvirHossainMazumdar ,PO (Knitting) of Fakir Knitwears Ltd. for giving me theirproper guideline and continuous support.

I want to offer my deepest thanks and complements to my parents and brother for theirunselfish and stimulating influence in my any education life.

Finally my cordial gratitude to almighty Allah to successfully completed my industrialattachment.

May-2012 SAIDUL ISLAM

FAKIR KNITWEARS LTD

IntroductionIndustrial attachment is an essential part of 4 years B. Sc in Textile Engineeringcourse of Southeast University, Banani, Dhaka. As a Textile graduate shouldhave an experience in the study of Wet Processing Technology, machineriesproducts and over all situation of the Factory before work in the industries. Ihave the opportunity to perform the industrial attachment on Fakir KnitwearsLtd. Fakir Knitwears Ltd, is a renowned and modern technology integratedindustry.

Fakir KnitwearsLtd, started in the year 1988 in knit garment exporter, FakirKnitwears Ltd. Crossed over a long way and found us as one of the bestknitwear manufacturer-exporter of Bangladesh.

Fakir Knitwears Ltd. certified with OKEO-TEX, ISO 9001-2000 &SRM andalso getting by WRAP and ISO-14001

Fakir Knitwears Ltd. strive to provide the best quality garment to the buyers.Factory provided advanced technology in all aspects of operation to attainexcellence concerning quality, dependability and commitment for apparelindustry and society. Product quality is ensured with the practice of advancedtechnology and our inclination toward meeting with the buyer's satisfaction withcompetitive price.

Fig: Location map of the FKL

Chapter One:

Project DescriptionCOMPANY PROFILE

Factory :FakirKnitwears Ltd.

Factory & Head Office :Kyempur, Fatullah, Narayangonj-1400

Phone:88-02-7641379-80

7643242,7643271Fax:88-02-7634611

Commercial Office :89 Lucky chamber,1stFloor,Motijheel

Dhaka-1000,Bangladesh.

Managing Director :Fakir Akhtaruzzaman (C.I.P)

Year of Establishment :1988

Area of Premises :550000 sqft

Number of Employee :8500

Yearly turnover :$120 million

Production Capacity : Knitting- 40 tons/day

Dyeing-42 tons/day

Dyeing Finishing-42tons/day

Garments-200000 pcs/day

Garments Washing-20000pcs/day

Printing-100000 pcs/day

Embroidery-200 Head

Contact(Marketing) : 1)F.A.Zaman(neaz),(Director)

Email: [email protected]

2)Mr.MahmudulHasan, DGM

(Merchandising & Marketing)


3)Mr.BiswajitSaha,AGM

(Merchandising & marketing)


Bank:1) National Bank of Pakistan

2)One Bank Limited

3)Datch Bangla Bank Limited

Buyers : H & M

TEMA

PRIMARK

PEACOCKS

PENNYES

BERSHKA

ZERA

Type of Factory& Concern Department

The factory is a Knit composite industry. The factory has the following departments-

Knitting:

o Knitting

o Inspection

o Quality control

Dyeing:

o Batch section

o Dye house

o Dyeing laboratory

o Quality control

o Finishing

Garments:

o Merchandising

o Sample

o Cutting Section

o Sewing Section

o Finishing Section

Maintenance:

o Electrical

o Mechanical

Administration

Security

Marketing

Production Planning & Control

Human Resource & Development

Remarks

The factory has outstanding quality of producing and exporting goods. The infrastructure isthe fabric is well enough to be a very good composite factory in Bangladesh. Theinformation’s are given according to source of Management department.

Organogram

Chapter Two:

Management SystemFAKIR KNITWEARS LTD

Managing Director

• Reporting to Chairperson

• Responsible to board of director/s

• Having total charge of the operation

• Directly responsible to overlook marketing department and fulfillmarketing requirements

• Monitor factory operation and make sure orders are delivered on time, withcustomer's required quality at a minimum cost

• Take the total charge of all human resource activities and make sure FKL. To haveprofessional and cheerful work force

Director

• Reporting to Managing Director

• Direct co-ordination with Production Manager / Sample Room In-Charge / QualityManager / Lab In-Charge.

• Product analyzing and providing technical guidance for optimum benefit of thecompany.

• Monitor productivity and take necessary actions and give advises.

• Take charge of all pre production activities.

• Take charge of all new developments.

• Identify tanning needs.

• Maintain safety system and procedures.

• Introduce cost effective management methods.

General Manager (Operation)

• Report directly to Managing Director & Director.

• Take total charge of the factory activities.

• Take charge of administration / fund management / cost control/ purchasing /production planning / store and stock control / delivery schedules and compliance.

• Directly control all the system maintenance and upgrading.

• Take responsibility of all information flow to / from head office with the help ofcoordinator

• Take charge of all recruitments and terminations with the guidance of Director.

General Manager (Production)

• Report directly to Managing Director.

• Negociate with the Merchandising DGM

• Co-ordinate with the Merchandising department about costing & Consumption.

• Directly Report to the Director about the Garments Unit.

• Over all monitoring the productivity and take necessary actions.

• Responsible to Production Manager. Merchandising (DGM)


• Co-ordinate with Marketing officer, Director Operations and Sample Room In-Charge.

• Upgrade Managing Director on the progress. Follow-up on new orderconfirmations and transfer information to subordinates

• Make contribution to production planning and make sure that the production planis up to date.

• Monitoring maintained and processed order information, which transferredbetween head office and the factory

• Execute raw materials bookings and follow-ups.

• Follow up and get it done samples from sample room with the help of thecoordinator.

• Understand the general / technical problems in the factory, customer requirementsand get buyer's approvals where ever possible.

Finance and Accounts (DGM)

• Directly report to the Director.

• Close co-ordination with Managing Director.

• Responsible for execution funds and maintain relevant documentation.

• Maintain salary sheets and follow up cash requirements and organize funds forcompany needs.

• Handle all kind of banking affairs.

• Produce Management reports with regards to company finance General Manager(Purchase & Inventory)


• Co-ordinate with Merchandising Manager.

• Responsible for business development / develop new supplier sources and costcontrol.

• Frequent market research and up date management and relateddepartments on the current trends in the market.

• Generate innovation to the organization.

• Follow up current customers and ongoing orders.

• Co-operate with customers and make their requirements understand to thesubordinates and related departments.

• Understand the general / technical problems in the factory; convince customersand get customers approvals where ever is possible on company interest.

• Find business for surplus goods.

• Prepare and maintain management reports.

General Manager (HR & Compliance)

• Directly reporting to Director.

• Co-ordinate with the entire departmental in charges and all the workers in thefactory

• Responsible to monitor,

o Factory timing o Discipline and cleanliness o Attendance, leave and holydays oSecurity and maintenance of the factory o Transportation and its maintenance oWagers, over time pay, allowances and other payments. o Do necessary formalitiesduring new recruitment or terminations. Manager (IE & Planning)

• Directly reporting to the Director.

• Directly reporting to the MD Sir about the over all situation of the factory

• Sample break down and SMV establish.

• Discussion with GM (Production) about lost time and bottle neck.

• Co-ordination with HR department about the workers recruitment. SeniorMerchandiser

• Report directly to Manager Merchandising.

• Maintain and process information received from buyers and buying offices andprocess and transfers them between head office and factory.

• Follow up on new order confirmations and book raw materialsaccordingly.

• Help to up date the production plan. Production Manager

• Directly reporting to General Manager.

• Responsible to GM, Operations.

• Co-ordinate with Quality Manager, Cutting manager, Finishing & Store

Inventory Manager

• Directly reporting to General Manager.

• Responsible to Merchandising Manager.

• Co-ordinate with production Co-coordinator.

• Responsible to follow up production planning and all the raw materialrequirements.

• Maintain inventory / storing system / documentation and provideinformation to prepare statistics

• Stock controlling and keep management inform as and when required.

Quality Control In-charge

• Reporting to Quality Manager

• Responsible to Director Operations

• Co-ordinate with production, knitting, linking, trimming, mending and finishingIn-Charges and Supervisors

• Responsible to follow up instructions given by Quality Manager and DirectorOperations.

• Monitor the work done by Quality Checkers.

• Make sure the quality is maintained at buyer's required standard and maintainedcompany quality system.

• Maintain relevant paper work.

Human Resources &Welfare Officer

• Reporting to General Manager

• Co-ordinate with all department heads in the organization.

• Responsible to monitor training, cleanliness, health and safety, meals, picnics,welfare fund and all other welfare affairs

Compliance Officer

• Reporting to HR & Welfare Officer

• Responsible to General Manager

• Co-ordinate with all department heads in the organization.

• Responsible to monitor system management, health & safety and all othercompliance affairs.

HROfficer

• Directly reporting to Administration Manager

• Responsible to General Manager

• Co-ordinate with the entire department in charges and all the workers in thefactory.

• Responsible to monitor,

o Factory timing. o Discipline and cleanliness. o Attendance, leave andholydays. o Security and maintenance of the factory. o Transportation and itsmaintenance. o Wagers, over time pay, allowances and other payments. o Donecessary formalities during new recruitment or terminations. Accounts Executive

• Reporting to Finance & Accounts Manager.

• Responsible to maintain all the books and paperwork with regards to companyaccounts.

• Prepare and maintain salary sheets.

• Follow up day-to-day cash requirement and handled funds.

• Prepare management reports.

Security In-charge

• Reporting to Dept. General Manager

• Responsible to monitor all the activities of security officers, conduct securityactivities and make sure the total premises are completely safe and secured.

• Should conduct regular security inspections in the premises both day and night

• Maintain records of all incomings and out going goods, personal and vehicles.

• Provide training to security staff. Security Guard

• Reporting to Security In-charge.

• Responsible to Security Manager.

• Conduct security activities and make sure the total premise is completely safe andsecured.

• Should be conduct regular security inspections in both day and night.

• Maintain all security records. Time Keeper

• Reporting to Administration Manager

• Responsible to maintain the time record of all the employees.

• Maintain timecard in order. Sewing Supervisor

• Directly reporting to Finishing In-Charge.

• Responsible to Assistant Production Manager.

• Co-ordinate with finishing Supervisor.

• Responsible for all labeling.

• Monitoring work of all the workers.

• Maintain needle policy and safety.

Sewing Operators

• Reporting to Sewing Supervisor.

• Responsible to Finishing In-Charge.

• Duties to do sewing with optimum quality.

• Maintain cleanliness and safety. Ironing Supervisor

• Directly reporting to Finishing In-Charge

• Responsible to Assistant Production Manager

• Co-ordinate with Washing In-Charge

• Responsible for all finishing activities

• Motivate subordinates. Iron man

• Reporting to Ironing Supervisor

• Responsible to Finishing In-charge

• Duties to do ironing with optimum quality.

• Maintain cleanliness and safety. Packing Supervisor

• Reporting to Finishing In-Charge

• Responsible for Assistant Production Manager

• Co-ordinate with Ironing Supervisor and Sewing Supervisor.

• Responsible for best quality goods.

• Monitoring work of all the workers.

• Motivate subordinates.

Chapter Three:

MachineriesGarments Machineries

SI no. Name of the m/c No of m/c Brand /Origin

01 Straight Knife m/c 30 Mack- Japan

02 Band Knife m/c 02 OSHMAKK, Taiwan

03 Lay spreading m/c 04 Eastman

04 Sample print heating m/c 02 Speed cutter, Japan

05 Single Needle Lock Stitch 591 Brother , Japan

06 Over lock m/c 512 Pegasus, Japan

07 Flat Lock m/c 156 Pegasus, Japan

08 Feed of the arm 02 Japan

09 Snp button m/c 16 Prime

10 Button hole m/c 20 Brother, Japan

11 Button attaching m/c 17 Brother, Japan

12 Back tape m/c 22 Pegasus, Japan

13 One stop Zik m/c 22 Brother, Japan

14 Thread sucking m/c 20 OSHIMA

15 Thread Re-Con m/c 08 OSHIMA

16 Spot Removing m/c 16 OSHIMA

17 Metal Detector 07 Hasima

18 Iron Vacuum table 150 Hasima

19 Bar take M/c 32 Brother, Japan

20 Rib Cutter 30 OSHMAKK, Taiwan

21 Cylinder bed m/c 177 Brother, Japan

22 Lock stitch two needle 05 Brother, Japan

23 Iron m/c 150 OSHIMA

24 Hand tag m/c 60 Japan

25 Hand dry m/c 120 Brother, Japan

Knitting Machineries

Machine Type: Single JerseySL MC NO. DIA-GG-F BRAND TYPE

1 A-1 36"24-108 Jiunn Long Open Width


3 A-3 36"24-108 Masa Open Width









12 A-1 2 42"24-126 Masa Open Width

Machine Type:Single Jersey1 B-1 34"24-102 Jiunn Long Open Width

2 B-2 34"24-102 Jiunn Long Open Width


4 B-4 34"24-102 Masa Open Width








12 B-1 2 44"24-132 Masa Open Width

Machine Type: Single JerseySL MC NO. DIA-GG-F BRAND TYPE

1 D-1 26"24-104 King Knit Tube

2 D-2 26"24-104 Quan Tex Tube

3 D-3 26"24-78 Masa Tube

4 D-4 28"24-84 Masa Tube

5 D-5 28"24-84 Masa Tube

6 D-6 28"24-112 Jiunn Long Tube

7 D-7 30'24-72 Santec Tube

8 D-8 30"24-90 Masa Tube

9 D-9 30"20-90 Masa Tube

10 D-10 30"24-90 Masa Tube

11 D-11 34"24-102 Jiunn Long Tube

12 D-1 2 32"24-102 Jiunn Long TubeMachine Type: Single Jersey1 E-1 21"24-84 Quan Tex Tube

2 E-2 22"24-88 Quan Tex Tube

3 E-3 22"24-66 Masa Tube

4 E-4 22"24-66 Masa Tube

5 E-5 23"24-69 Masa Tube

6 E-6 23"24-69 Masa Tube


8 E-8 24"24-72 Masa Tube



11 E-11 25"24-100 Quan Tex Tube

12 E-12 25"24-100 Quan Tex Tube

FAKIR KNITWEARS LTDMachine Type: Single Jersey1 C-1 32"24-96 Jiunn Long Open Width

2 C-2 32"24-96 Jiunn Long Open Width

3 C-3 32"24-96 Masa Open Width

4 C-4 32"24-96 Masa Open Width

5 C-5 36"24-108 Masa Tube

6 C-6 36"24-108 Quan Tex Tube

7 C-7 36-24-72 Jiunn Long Jaquard

8 C-8 38"24-114 Jiunn Long Tube

9 C-9 38"24-114 Masa Tube

10 C-10 40"24-120 Masa Tube

11 C-11 40-24-120 Masa Tube

12 C-1 2 42"24-126 Masa TubeMachine Type: Rib & Inter Lock (Double Jersey)1 G-1 34"24-102 Jiunn Long Tube

2 G-2 34"24-102 Jiunn Long Tube





7 G-7 38"24/22/18-72 Jiunn Long Tube





12 G-12 40"24/22/18-84 Jiunn Long Tube

Machine Type: Rib Jersey (Double Jersey)1 F-1 20"24-80 Jiunn Long Tube

2 F-2 30"18-72 Jiunn Long Tube

3 F-3 30"18-54 Terrot Tube

4 F-4 32"18-66 Masa Tube


6 F-6 32" 18-72 Jiunn Long Tube




~10 F-10 36"18-72 Jiunn Long Tube


12 F-1 2 40"18-84 Jiunn Long TubeMachine Type: Rib & Inter Lock & S/J1 H-1 42"24-252 Masa Tube

2 H-2 36"20/18-84 Jiunn Long Tube

3 H-3 38"16-72 Jiunn Long Tube


5 H-5 36"18/16-72 Jiunn Long Tube






11 H-11 38"24-48 Fukuhara Tube

12 H-12 38"24-48 Fukuhara Tube

13 H-1 3 33-18/24-48 Fukuhara Tube

FAKIR KNITWEARS LTDMachine Type: Single Jersey (Relaknit:4.0/3.2ll)

1 R-1 38"24-123 Mayer &Cie Tube





€ R-6 36"24-144 Mayer &Cie Tube



Machine Type: Plain S/J & Fleece

1 P-1 30"24-60 Sanda Tube





Total = 102 PCS

Laboratory MachineriesSI no. Name of the m/c No of m/c Origin Brand

01 Spectro Photo Meter 01 U.S.A Gretag M/C

02 Lab Dyeing M/C 01 Taiwan Irdyer Rapid

03 Lab Dyeing M/C 01 Hong Kong Tung Shing

04 Gray Scale 01 Japan Shinko

05 Light Box 01 England Verivide

06 Washing Machine 06 Sweden TMS-900

07 Tumbling Machine 01 Sweden TK-111S

08 Rubbing Machine 02 U.S.A

09 Auto dispensing Machine 01 Italy Lawer

Dyeing Machineries (Sample)

SI no. Name of the m/c No ofm/c

No ofNozzle

Origin Brand Capacity

01 Sample Machine 04 01 Taiwan Fong's 40kg02 Sample Machine 04 01 Taiwan Fong's 40kg03 Sample Machine 01 01 Taiwan Fong's 160kg04 Sample Machine 01 01 Taiwan Fong's 120kg05 Sample Machine 01 01 Taiwan Fong's 120kg06 Sample Machine 01 01 Taiwan Fong's 25kg07 Sample Machine 01 01 Taiwan Fong's 30kg08 Sample Machine 01 01 Taiwan Fong's 30kg

FAKIR KNITWEARS LTD

Dyeing Machineries (Bulk Production)

SIno.

Name of the m/c No ofm/c

NoofNozzle

Origin Brand Capacity

01 Low Temperature & Atmosphere 01 02 Taiwan Fong's 400kg
















17 High Temperature & Pressure 01 02 Taiwan Fong's 400kg






23 High Temperature & Pressure 01 3 Greece Sclavos 750kg



Dyeing Finishing Machineries

SI no. Name of the m/c No of m/c Brand Origin

01 Stenter 03 Bruckner Germany

02 Stenter 01 ACC Turkey

03 Stenter 01 Chengfu Taiwan

04 Open Compactor 03 Lafer Italy

05 Open Compactor 01 Ferraro Italy

06 Slating 02 Bianco Italy

07 Slating 02 EL Italy

08 Bag Sewing 03 MTG Italy

09 Singing 01 Osthoff Germany

10 Sueded M/C 01 Lafu (Has) Turkey

11 Combing 01 I kuang Taiwan

12 Shewing 01 I kuang Taiwan

13 Squeezer 02 AB Calator Sweden

14 Squeezer 01 AKAB Sweden

15 Squeezer 01 Kromson Turkey

16 Tube Compactor 01 Fab-Con U.S.A

17 Tube Compactor 01 Specttorimar Italy

18 Calender 01 Ferraro Italy

19 Dryer 01 AMS Turkey

20 Dryer 01 Obermaier France

21 Tube Compactor 01 Lafer (Has) Turkey

22 Dryer 01 Dilmiler Turkey

Boiler Machineries

SI no. Model No of m/c Origin Brand

01 DDHI 5.0-10 02 Germany Omnica

02 UL-S-1000 02 Germany Loos

ManpowerFAKIR KNITWEARS LTD

Total Manpower and Section Wise Manpower:

Administration Department:

SL.No Designation No of Manpower

01 General Manager (Operation) 01

02 General Manager (Admin, RH & Com) 01

03 Admin Officer 01

04 IT Manager 01

05 IT Officer 04

06 Welfare Officer 02

07 Software Engineer 02

08 Doctor 01

09 Nurse 01

10 Day Care Governess 02

11 Time Keeper 02

12 Painter 02

13 Peon 13

14 Cleaning Supervisor 08

15 Cleaner & Sweeper 240

16 Cook 07

17 Medical Assistant 02

Total = 310

Accounts Department


01 Deputy General Manager 01

02 Sr. Accounts Officer (Tax) 01

03 Accounts Officer 09

04 Cash Officer 02

05 Asst. Manager 02

06 Junior Officer 02

Total = 17

IE & Planning Department

SL.NO Designation No of Manpower

01 Manager 01

02 Asst. Manager 01

03 IE Officer 20

04 Work study officer 20

Total = 42

Merchandising Department



02 Asst. General Manager 01

03 Manager 03

04 Sr. Merchandising 01

05 Merchandising 12

06 Asst. Merchandising 06

07 Trainee Merchandising 02

Total=1 26

Maintenance Department



02 Mechanical In-Charge 01

03 Mechanic 08

04 Electrician 03

05 Mechanics Helper 11

Total = 24

Sample Department


01 Manager 01

02 Pattern Master 04

03 Sample Cutter 08

04 Sample Man 06

05 CAD Manager 01

06 CAD Designer 09

07 Q.C (Sewing) 06

08 Operator (Sewing) 27

Total = 61

Security Department



02 Manager 01

03 Security Officer 02

04 Security Supervisor 04

05 Fire Man 08

06 Security Guard 87

07 Driver 20

Total = 123

Inventory Department


01 General Manager 01

02 Asst. Store Manager 03

03 Inventory Officer 02

04 Asst. Inventory Officer 05

05 Sr. Store Keeper 05

06 Store Officer 11

07 Store Keeper 21

08 Store Assistant 19

09 Tally Man Incharge 01

10 Tally Man 14

Total = 82

Cutting Department


01 Cutting Manager 01

02 Cutting In-charge 09

03 Cutting Supervisor 10

04 Cutting Man 65

05 Sticker Man 11

06 Cutting Inspection 96

07 Marker Man 10

08 Lay Man 230

09 Loader 51

Total = 483

Production Department


01 General Manager 01

02 Production Manager 05

03 Floor In-charge 15

04 Production Co-ordinator 02

05 Supervisor 48

06 Input Man 15

07 Operator 1056

08 Helper 864

09 Count Man 48

10 Quality Control Man 336

Total = 2390

Printing Department


01 Printing Manager 01

02 In-charge 02

03 Color Muster 01

04 Invigilator 08

05 Supervisor 04

06 QC 21

07 Check Man 73

08 Printer 74

09 Bundle Count Man 24

10 Cleaner 22

11 Helper 428

12 Expose Man 2

13 Loader 11

Total = 671

Quality Department


01 Deputy Manager 01

02 Manager 01

03 Asst. manager 01

04 In-charge 04

05 Quality Controller 26

06 Check Supervisor 39

Total = 72

Finishing Department


01 Finishing Manager 01

02 Finishing In-charge 06

03 Finishing Supervisor 34

04 Iron Man 150

05 Folding man 120

06 Poly man 110

07 Packer man 40

08 Helper 60

Total = 527

Chapter Four:

Raw Materials

Yarn

The raw material for knitting is the yarn. Different types of yarn of wide range of differentcount areused. Both carded and combed yarn is used for knitting.

Generally used yarn and their count:

Yarn Type Count

Cotton 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S, 32S, 34S, 40S

Polyester 75D, 100D

Spandex yarn 20D,40D, 70D

Grey Mélange 24S, 26S

PC (65%Polyester & 35% cotton) 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S

CVC 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S

Fabric:

Fakir Knitwears Ltd.is a knit composite textile industry. In the industry fabric is used as rawmaterial in dyeing-

Grey Fabrics:

Following types of gray fabrics are dyed:

Single jersey Single jersey with lycra Polo pique Single lacoste

Fleece Interlock Interlock with lycra Rib Rib with lycra 1Χ1 rib 2Χ2 rib 6X2 rib Sugar rib Regular drop needle Irregular drop needle Different types of collar & cuff

Chemicals:

List of Chemicals used in Cotton Club (BD) Ltd. is as follows-

Basic Chemicals:

1. Acetic Acid

2. Hydrochloric Acid

3. Sulphuric Acid

4. Caustic soda

5. Formic acid

6. Bleaching powder

Detergent & Scouring agent:

1. SUNMORL CK-22. AssistB26f/SL2F(CK)

Levelling Agent

1. Neocrystal-200BF2. LevagalDLP

Sequestering Agent

1. Neocristal 1502. Neocristal-DMBF3. NOBLEACH N(Multi-function)

Salt

1. Glauber Salt2. Common Salt

Whitening Agent

1. Syno White BYB2. Syno White 4BK

Softener

1. Sapamine FPG2. Aleamine-CWS3. Necipole PR 994. Gramazin-E2R

Fixing Agent

1. NeofixRP702. Neofix-R-2503. Albafix ECO

Reducing Agent

1. Hydrose2. Caustic3. Visco Color4. ViscoBleah

Bleaching Agent

1. (50%)H2O2

Enzyme1. Retrocell PLX2. BIO-C35

Stabilizer

1. Nobleach N(Multi-function)2. Neorate PH 55 NF3. Neorate PH 150

Anticreasing Agent

1. Texport GL 5002. Texport D-6003. AC-200

PH Controller1. Acetic Acid

2. Formic Acid

3. Soda Ash

4. Caustic

5. Invatex AC

Per-oxide Killer

1.Croaks NF

Antifoaming agent

1. Albatex FFC

Dyes

Fakir Knitwars ltd uses the following dyes-

1.Sumifix

2.Boductive

3.Ciba

4.Livafix

5.Terafix

Remarks

As quality is the prime concern of the factory, qualitative raw materials are alwaysbought by the management of the factory. Besides, there is enough space to keep thoseraw materials in the factory.

Chapter Five:

Knitting sectionProcess Flow chart of Knitting:Yarn in cone formFeeding the yarn cone in the creelFeeding the yarn in the feeder via trip-tape positive feeding arrangement and Tension device.

Knitting

Withdraw the rolled fabric and weighting

Inspection

Numbering

Parts of knitting Machines:

Creel: Creel is used to place the cone of yarn.

Feeder: Feeder is used to feed the yarn to make a fabric.

Tensioning device: Tensioning device is used to give proper tension to the yarn.

VDQ pulley: VDQ pulley is used to control the GSM by controlling the stitch length.

Guide: Guide is used to guide the yarn.

Sensor: Sensor is used to seen & the machine stops when any problem occurs.

Spreader: Spreader is used to spread the knitted fabric before take up roller.

Take up roller: Take up roller is used to take up the fabric

Fixation feeder: These types of feeder are used in Electrical Auto Striper Knitting Machine

to feed the yarn at specific finger.

Rethom: These devise are used in Electrical Auto Striper Knitting machine

Design Development by using CAM:

The type of fabric to produce depends on the setting of the Cam of Knitting machine. Thedifferent types of fabric can be produced by only changing the cam setting. The cam settingsto produce different fabric are given below:

Single jersey:

Only knit cams are used to produce single jersey fabric. So the setting would be-

K K K

K K K

K K K

Inter lock:

Inter lock fabric is produced by using knit and miss cam. So the setting would be-

K M K

M K M

Lacost:

Lacost uses knit and tuck cam like-

K K T K K

T K K K T

French terry:

The cam setting is as follows-

K M K M K M

K T K M K T

K M K T K M

Considered pointof Knitting:

When a buyer orders for fabric then they mention some points related toproduction and quality. Before production of knitted fabric, these factors are needed toconsider. Those are as follows-

Finished G.S.M. Type of Fabric or design of Fabric. Yarn count Types of yarn (combed or carded) Diameter of the fabric. Stitch length Color depth.

End products of circular knitting machine:

Single Jersey M/C:

a) S/J Plainb) Single lacostec) Double lacosted) Single piquee) Double piquef) Terry

Rib M/C:

a) 1*1 Rib fabric

b) 2*2 Rib fabric

c) Honeycomb

End product of Flat bed knitting machine:

a) Collar

b) Cuff

Production Calculation:

A. Production/shift in kg at 100% efficiency

countYarnmmSLNeedleofNoFeederofNoRPM

80.3527

)(..

B. Production/shift in meter

100/1260.

/.min/

cmCourseEfficiencyFeederofNoRPM

cmCourseCourse

C. Fabric width in meter:

100/.

100/.

cmWalesknittinginusedNeedlesofnoTotal

cmWaleswalesofnoTotal

D. Needle calculation

For Circular knitting machine:

Diameter of the Machine X Gauge of the Machine X 3.14

For example: Diameter of the machine is 18” and Gauge of the machine is 24. Then thenumber of Needles on the machine would be-

18 X 24 X 3.14 = 1356

For Flat Bed knitting machine:

Length of the Machine needle bed X Gauge of the Machine

For example: Length of the machine needle bed is 56” and Gauge of the machine is 14. Thenthe number of Needles on the machine would be-

56 X 14 = 1568

Faults of Knitting:

1. Hole MarkCauses:

Holes are the results of yarn breakage or yarn cracks. During loop formation the yarn breaks in the rejoin of the needle hook. If the yarn count is not correct on regarding structure, gauge, course and

density. Badly knot or splicing. Yarn feeder badly set.

Remedies:

Yarn strength must be sufficient to withstand the stretch as well asuniform.

Use proper count of yarn. Correctly set of yarn feeder. Knot should be given properly.

2. Needle MarkCauses:

When a needle breaks down then needle mark comes along the fabrics. If a needle or needle hook is slightly bends then needle mark comes on the

fabrics.

Remedies:

Needle should be straight as well as from broken latch.

3. Sinker MarkCauses:

When sinker corrode due to abrasion then some times can not hold a newloop as a result sinker mark comes.

If sinker head bend then sinker mark comes.Remedies:

Sinker should be changed.

4. StarCauses:

Yarn tension variation during production. Buckling of the needle latch. Low G.S.M fabric production.

Remedies:

Maintain same Yarn tension during production. Use good conditioned needles.

5. Drop StitchesCauses:

Defective needle. If yarn is not properly fed during loop formation i.e. not properly laid on to

the needle hook. Take-down mechanism too loose. Insufficient yarn tension. Badly set yarn feeder.

Remedies:

Needle should be straight & well. Proper feeding of yarn during loop formation. Correct take up of the fabric & correct fabric tension. Yarn tension should be properly.

6. Oil stainCauses:

When oil lick through the needle trick then it pass on the fabrics and makea line.

Remedies:

Ensure that oil does not pass on the fabrics. Well maintenance as well as proper oiling.

7. Rust stain

Causes:

If any rust on the machine parts.Remedies:

If any rust on the machine parts then clean it. Proper maintenance as well as proper oiling.

8. Pin holeCauses:

Due to break down or bend of the latch, pin hole may come in the fabric.Remedies:

Change the needle

9. Grease stainCauses:

Improper greasing Excess greasing

Remedies:

Proper greasing as well as proper maintenance

10. Cloth fall- outCauses:

Cloth fall- out can occur after a drop stitch especially when an emptyneedle with an empty needle with closed latch runs into the yarn feederand remove the yarn out of the hook of the following needles.

Remedies:

Make sure all the latches of needle are closed with feeding yarn after adrop stitch.

11. Barre:

A fault in weft knitted fabric appearing as light or dark course wise (width wise)Stripe.

Causes:

This fault comes from yarn fault. If different micro near value of fiber content in yarn. Different lusture, dye affinity of fiber content in yarn. During spinning different similar classes of fiber is mixed specially in

carded yarn & these fibers have similar characteristics.

In draw fame different similar classes sliver is mixed and make one sliver.Remedies:

We can use this fabric in white color.

12. Fly dust:Causes:

In knitting section too much lint is flying to and fro that are created fromyarn due to low twist as well as yarn friction. This lint may adhere orattaches to the fabric surface tightly during knit fabric production.

Remedies:

Blowing air for cleaning and different parts after a certain period of time. By cleaning the floor continuously. By using ducting system for cleaning too much lint in the floor. Over all ensure that lint does not attach to the fabric.

13. Yarn contamination

Causes:

If yarn contains foreign fiber then it remains in the fabric even afterfinishing,

If lot, count mixing occurs.Remedies:

By avoiding lot, count mixing. Fault less spinning.

13. Yarn Faults: Neps. Slubs. Yarn count variations. Thick/Thin place in yarn. Hairiness

Flat Knitting Machines Fault:

1. Holes:

Causes:

Needle Break, High Tension on Tensioner, Excess cotton with yarn on needle.

2. Missing Needle:

Causes:

Faulty Needle, Faulty Cam setting.

3. Oil mark:

Causes:

Improper Oiling on Machine. Inexperienced Operator

4. Loop Miss:

Causes:

Tension on take up roller, Needle miss.

Chapter Six:

Batching section

Batch process flow chart :

Flow process chart of Batching Section of Fakir KnitwearsLtd.

Fabric Received↓

Inspection↓

Fabric Divided according to Diameter↓

Supervisor batches the fabric according to quantity by Calculation↓

Sent for Dyeing

Grey fabric inspection

The batch section of the Fakir KnitwearsLtd. inspects the following parameters of thereceived fabric-

Knitting Hole Oil Spot Tara Shade UP Star Mark Patta Lack out

Batch Calculation:

= Batch Quantity (M/C Quantity) / Total Quantity X Diameter quantity

Equation for Rope Length

=Diameter Quantity (Weight of Fabric in a roll) X 39.37 X1000 / Finished GSM / Finishedopen Diameter

Batch management:

Primarily batching is done by dyeing manager taking the above criteria underconsideration. Batch section in charge receives this primary batch plan from dyeing manager.Some time planning is adjusted according to m/c condition or emergency.

Machines in batch section :

No of Machine : 06Machine Name : Air Turning MachineOrigin : KOREA

Remarks:

The batch section of the factory is well equipped but it lacks in a quality controller.

Chapter Seven:

Lab section

Lab dip:

Lab dip is a process by which buyers supplied swatch is matched with the varying dyespercentage in the laboratory with or without help of “DATA COLOR”

Lab dip plays an important role in shade matching & and detaching the characteristics of thedyes and chemicals are to be used in the large scale of production so this is an important taskbefore bulk production.

Objective of Lab dip

The main objectives in lab are as follows:

To calculate the recipe for sample dyeing. To compare dyed sample with swatch by light Box or spectroflash. To calculate revise recipe for sample dyeing. Finally approved lab dip (Grade: ABC)

The responsibilities of the laboratory are:

Sample preparation according to buyer requirement Different properties test (Wash fastness, Color fastness, rubbing fastness,

Perspiration Test, Pilling Test etc.) Strength test of Dyestuff Chlorine test, Peroxide test Product Development etc.

Laboratory work sequence :

Sample received (Fabrics)↓

Check & note the Lot no, Style no, Item no& Collar↓

Sample Preparation↓

Run the test↓

Physical test Wet lab

Color Fastness to wash

Pilling Color Fastness to washing

Crocking

Evaluate the sample Pre-production Sample Final sample

Report Making Test Test

Prepared the report prepared the reportPass Fail

Deliver Refinish Pass Fail Pass Fail

Need to test again Refinish

Lab Dyeing process follow up :

The laboratory dyeing process of Fakir Knitwears Ltd. is as follow:

Sample Received

↓

Standard is checked with the Reference from the inventory

↓

If matched then sample prepared from that recipe

↓

If not matched than the color percentage is calculated by using Data Color

↓

Recipe Prepared

↓

Sample prepared according to recipe

↓

Standard (From Buyer) and Sample prepared is Compared

↓

If Okay then the sample is sent to Buyer

↓

Buyer approves the sample and order for the bulk production.

Sample Received:Buyer sends a sample which is considered as standard in whole process. Buyer also

gives some requirements about the properties of the standard fabric. For example, Buyerwants good wash fastness, light fastness, rubbing fastness, pilling formation etc. The labreceives this standard to make this fabric according to buyer requirements.

Standard is checked with the Reference from the inventory:

The factory dyed a lot of fabric in its running years. It also stores a lot of sample in itsinventory. The standard is first checked with the samples kept in the inventory.

If matched then sample prepared from that recipe:

If the standard is matched with the sample of inventory then the next process becomeseasier. Because after matching the sample with standard previously maintained recipe isfollowed. If the sample does not match with the standard then the process goes to data color.

If not matched than the color percentage is calculated by using Data Color:

If the standard does not match with the samples of inventory, then the standardpercentage of color is found out from the data color machine.

Recipe Prepared:

According to the results of data color machine the recipe is prepared to get the desiredsample of that standard.

Sample prepared according to recipe:

Following the procedure the sample is prepared.

Standard (From Buyer) and Sample prepared is Compared:

After getting the sample is compared with the standard. And several tests are done tomeet the buyer requirement.

If Okay then the sample is sent to Buyer:

Sample is then sent to the buyer for the final approval.

Buyer approves the sample and order for the bulk production:

When buyer gives the final approval the fabric is sent to production floor for the bulkproduction.

Properties test

Color fastness to rubbing (wet & dry):

Procedure:

Firstly a sample of size (14 × 5) cm is taken at Wales & Course wise. The crocking cloth is

put on to the finger &is staged by finger clip & run 10 times in 10 seconds manually &

assesses the crocking cloth with gray scale.

The crocking cloth is placed on the water, it will suck some water and crocking cloth is then

squeezed. Then place the wet rubbing cloth on to the finger and stag with finger clip and run

10 times in 10 seconds manually. The crocking is then assessed cloth by gray scale for wet

rubbing. Wet and dry rubbing are checked according to buyer’s requirement.

Color fastness to washing. (ISO/05-CO6):

Procedure:

1. Size of specimen: Sample &multifibre at (10 × 2) cm then stitch.

2. Detergent: 4g/l ECE detergent (WOB) + 1g/l sodium per borate put in distilled water

& cooled at 20°C & measured PH (where necessary).

3. the program is run in the following way: -

Test no. Temp°C Liq.volume ml Time min. Steel balls Adjust pH

C2S 60°C 50 30 25 10.5±1

4. The sample is rinsed twice with cold water.

5. At 60°C by hanging or by flat iron pressing the dried but temperature should not less

more than 150°C.

6.

Pilling test:

Procedure:

The fabric 12.5 x 12.5cm is cut & balanced mark should be 10cm by using template. Thenthe fabric is sewn so that it can be firmly fit in the tube a moulded polyurethane tubes.Thenfour tubes are placed in a box & started 60±2 rev/min for 5 hrs or according to buyerrequirement. Then the fabric is assessed by putting tested specimen on the cabinet &compared with standard photographs.

Shrinkage &Spirality test:

Buyer’s requirements:

Template size: 50cm & 35cm, 25.5cm &18cm (use after quick wash).

Shrinkage: length wise--- 5%

Width wise----5%

Spirality: Left -------- 5%

Right -------- 5%

Procedure:

Firstly two ply of fabric is taken & put the template (50cm) on to the fabric. The template has

8 holes. Both length & width wise the template holes can measure 35cm at 3 places. Then 8

holes are marked by permanent marker & also at the edges of the template.

The fabric is sewn & it is given to the washing m/c for run at 60°C for 60minutes with water.

After that the sample is dried & then fabric is measured.

Calculation:

Shrinkage Test:

Lengthwise:After wash – Before wash

= ----------------------------------×100

Before wash

Width wise: After wash – Before wash

= ----------------------------------×100

Before wash

Spirality test:

=M)&HforthLength(wid

2sideRightsideLeft

× 100 %

Dyestuff Strength test:

Dyestuff strength test is very important for any textile dyeing industry.

A dye comes to industry then a sample fabric is dyed first to make it a reference. When thatdye is used and finished from inventory, new dye is ordered. But it is not sure the dye thatreached newly, will make a fabric as much dyed as before. That is why after arriving of dyeto the factory it is used to make a sample. Then this newly made sample is checked in respectof previously dyed sample. If the two samples match with each other, it is resulted that thestrength is okay. But if not match then the amount to be given (less or more) is determined.

Thus the strength of dyestuff is measured in this way.

Remarks:

The laboratory of the factory is well enough to make quality products. But more attention tolaboratory is required to make it more efficient. The information’s that lacks about laboratoryin this report is just the result of the unavailability of time of the depart

Chapter Eight:

Dyeing section

Cellulose:

When all impurities have been removed from the natural cotton fiber, cellulose remains.Cellulose has an empirical formula of (C6H10O5) n. pure cellulose is a white substance with a specificgravity of 1.5. It burns freely in air with a luminous smokeless flame. Cellulose is insoluble in waterand alkalis but dissolves in cold concentrated sulfuric acid. Like other carbohydrates, when heatedwith concentrated sulfuric acid it swells up, forming a mass of carbon. It is also attack by hydrochloricacid nitric acids.

When hydrolyzed with dilute acids an almost theoretical yield of glucose is obtained. This indicatesthat cellulose is a long-chain polymer produced by linking together a large number of glucose units.Starch and glycogen are also polymers of glucose but they have no fiber forming attributes.

From the foregoing it will be apparent that cellulose is a polymer of glucose, and it must contain alarge number of – CH2OH and CHOH groups.

The repeating unit in the cotton polymer is cellobiose, which consists of two glucose units. Cellobioseis hydrolyzed by the enzyme emulsion, which it is known, will only break down links between betaglucose molecules. cellobiose consists of two beta glucose molecules linked together at the 1:4 carbonatoms.

The most important chemical grouping on the cotton polymer is the hydroxyl groups or -OH groups.These are also present as methylol groups or – CH2OH. Their polarity gives rise to hydrogen bondsbetween the – OH groups of adjacent cotton polymers. Van der Waal’s forces also occur butcompared with the hydrogen bonds, the Vander Waal’s forces are of little significance.

Chemical composition of raw cotton:

Component Main location Relative amount

Cellulose Secondary wall 86.8 %

Oil and Wax Cuticle 0.70 %

Pectins Primary cell wall 1.0 %

Carbohydrates Primary cell wall 0.50 %

Protein Lumen 1.2 %

Salts Lumen 1.0 %

Water Whole 6.8 %

Others 2.0 %

Classes of dyes on the basis of suitability of dyeing different fibers:

Sl. no Name of dyes Suitable for Fibers

01 Acid dyes Wool, silk and Nylon

02 Basic dyes Nylon, Acrylic, Acetate Rayon, Silk, Wool and Jute

03 Direct dyes Cotton, Viscose Rayon, Linen, Nylon, Wool and Silk

04 Azoic dyes Cotton, Viscose and Linen.

05 Vat dyes Cotton, Viscose and Linen.

06 Sulpher dyers Cotton, Viscose and Linen.

07 Reactive dyes Cotton, Viscose, Linen, Wool, Silk and Nylon.

08 Disperse dyes Polyester, Nylon, Acrylic, Acetate Rayon and Triacetate Rayon.

Theory of Reactive Dyeing:

Reactive dyes are colored compounds and the only class of dyes that form covalentbonds between the dye molecules and the fibers. The dye contain reactive group which reactwith the fiber and make covalent bond with the fibers in the alkaline condition and act as anintegral part of the fiber is called reactive dye. Reactive dyes may be used for coloration of

cellulose and protein fibers and this is the most important class of dyes for dyeing andprinting of cellulosic fiber.

Structural characteristics of Reactive Dye:

Characteristics structural features of reactive dyes are as follows ---

D –B – R - X

Where,

D = Dye part

B = Bridging group

R = Reactive group bearing part

X = Reactive group.

Dyeing mechanism is completed by three stages-

Exhaustion of dye in the presence of electrolyte

Fixation of dye under alkaline condition

Wash of the unfixed dye from material surface

Exhaustion:when the fabric is immersed in the dye liquor an electrolyte is added toassist the exhaustion of dye. Here NaCl is used to neutralize the negative chargeformed on fabric surface & puts extra energy to penetrate dye molecules.

Fixation: fixation of dye means the reaction of reactive group of dye with theterminal -OH group of fiber& thus forming strong covalent bond with fiber.Controlled by maintaining ph by adding alkali properly.

Wash off:as the dyeing is completed a good wash must be applied to remove extraor unfixed dye from surface of fabric & for level dyeing it is important.

Reaction with Cellulose Fiber

Reactive dyes formed covalent bond with cellulosic fiber by Nuclueophilicsubstitution and addition reaction. The reactions are as follows ----

Substitution reaction:

D – R – Cl + HO - Cell D – R – O – Cell + HCl

Addition reaction:

D – F – CH2 = CH2 + HO – Cell D – F – CH2 – CH2 – O – Cell

Reaction with water:

The cold brand reactive dyes are highly reactive in nature. They react also with waterand get hydrolyzed. The reaction is as follows ----

D – R – Cl + HOH D – R – OH + HCl

The hydrolyzed dye is also colored substances and has very low substantivity for thecellulosic fiber. So they are attached with fiber surface after dyeing. If they do not washedaway from the fiber surface the fastness property of the fiber must be very low.

Dyes: The molecules of the organic compounds called dyes are responsible for the color of

dyed and printed lest tile fabric materials. Dye molecules are colored became they are

selectively able to absorbed and reflect incident light. Dyes molecules contain at least one of

each of the radicals called chromophores and auxochromes.

Pretreatment:Pretreatment is the preparation period of fabric fro dyeing. For getting proper fastness offabric and proper dyeing pretreatment is a mandatory process.

Demineralization:It is a process of removing mineral materials from the water. It is done in water treatmentplant. Water from natural sources contains many mineral materials which may hamper thedyeing process. If the mineral materials are present in water then it may lead to uneven shadein dyeing. Besides it may also damage the fabric and the machine.

Scorning:The process to remove fats, oil, waxy substances and added the impurities by

certain percentage of alkali treatment and which increase the absorbing power of the textile

units, is called scouring.

Bleaching:The process by which the natural color of a fiber can be removed and make the

textile this pure white and bright is called Bleaching.

Wetting agent:The chemical which is used for quickly moisten or watering the textile

units is called wetting agent.

Detergent:Detergent are nothing but a chemical which is used for clearing the textile units

or to remove fats, oil and wash. It is know as surface active agent.

Labeling agent:The chemical which are used for dyeing just to give level shade or even

dyeing is called leveling agent.

Enzyme: It is one kind of biocatalyst. It is based on problem. It is soluble in water but

insoluble in acid and alkali.

Salt:Act ad erectility, helps to exhaust dye molecules to the fiber.

Exhaust:The absorption of dye moleules from the dye liquor by the fibers being dyed.

Electrolyte:A compound which is aqueous solution or in the mother state, inducts an

electric current and is simultaneously decomposed by it into inns compounds which

dissociate into inns and /or radicals in aqueous solution.

Hydrolysis:The chemical decomposition of a substance by the action of water, the water

itself being also decomposed. Acids and alkalis often catalyses hydrolysis. The destructive

effect of hydrolysis upon fiber polymers will then also result in the rupture of inter- polymer

forces of attraction.

Hydrophilic:Having a strong affinity for water, or moisture absorbent

Hydrophobic:Having an aversion to water, non-absorbent or water repellent.

Components:Upon which dyeing Process Depends:

(1) Sulostrate

(2) PH

(3) Dyeing Assistant

(4) Temperature

Dyeing AssistanceThese are added in dyeing bath for which dyeing affinity is increased

is called dyeing asst.

(1) Electrolyte

(2) Leveling agent

(3) Carriers

(4) Solvents

Factors to be considered for dye & dyeing process selection:

(1) Hue

(2) Shade

(3) Brightness

(4) Cost

Topping:The application of further colorant not necessarily of the same hue/class to a dyed

substance in order to adjust the lather to the denied final color is called topping.

Dyeing Process:

Process flow chart for 100% Cotton (White Color):

Fabric loading

Demineralization(Wetting /Detergent +Antricreasing+Deminaralizing agent)

[Dosing time 5min temp400C ]

Temp raised at 550C 20 min

Draining (10-min)

Deteront /wetting agent +Andricreasing agent + Caustic[Dosing time 20 min temp-500Cmin (Run time]

Temp raised 700C

H2O2(50%) added [700Cmin]

Temp raised at 980C60 min

M/C Cooled (temp drop 800C

Brightening agent added[Dosing time 30 min 800C min]

Temp raised 980C

Sample check

Drain wash

normal hot wash

PH control at 4.5 (acetic acid leveling agent)

enzyme wash (550C60 min)

Temp raised 80010 min [enzyme killing]

after treatment with acid, leveling agent and softener

unload

Note:

(1) Enzyme wash happened after brightener for minimizing time.

(2) The required temp for enzyme wash in 550- 600C. At high temp (800-820C) the

enzyme destroyed or can ................ during the enzyme wash PH must be 4.5 cause in

alkaline condition enzyme wash can not get well.

(3) At high temperature caustic must be not use, otherwise create hates on fabric surface.

(4) Demineralization have done for remove water hardness and also remove grey fabric

hardness.

(5) Draining have not done directly at 800C to protect crease mark.

Process flow chart for100% Cotton (Black Color):

Fabric loading

Demineralization (600C10) (cracking agent +Diminaralizing agent)

Temp raised 980C 20minM/C cooled at 800C

Drain wash/ Rising 5min

Added acetic acid for PH control at 4.5

Enzyme wash

EnzymeDosing time 10 min temp550C

Run( 10 min)

PH Ckeck (6.9-7)Leveling with No bleach N (Dosing 600C 10 min)

Salt dosing (dosing time 30 min 600C 5 min

color dosing (with no. bleach N) , Dosing time 30 min 600C 10 min

Caustic added (PH= 10.5) (Dosing time -30 min 600C 10 min )

Color steam (600C60 min)

Sample check

Drain wash, 60 min

Acetic acid, PH -4.5 300C 20 min

Normal wash

Ultram 350 (900C20 min) (Unfixed dye remove)

Disusing 20 min

Softener (Dosing time= 10 min 400C 20 min)

Unload the fabric

Note:-

(1) This dyeing process for any deep color such as Navy, Red etc.

(2) Black or any deep color dyeing there is no need scouring & bleaching.

(3) No bleach N or leveling agent mixed with dyes for better dye figure or get best

solution of dye figure and happened dye mixing tem not in dye bath.

(4) It the caustic is not use in this process them the common salt and soda ratio will be

80/20 where 20 means amount of soda.

Process flow chart S/J Lycra (Cotton 65%+Polyester 35%) For Blue

Color:

Fabric load

Demineralization (Liqonr1:8{500C1D}

Caustic {Dosing time = 1D min} 500C 10 min

Temp raised 700C

H2O2 (500%) added {d,T= 1D min 700C 10 min

Temp raised 980C10min

Dye bath cool, 800C

Sample check

Drain wash

Hot rinsing

Acid, added, PH- 4.5

Enzyme wash

{dosing 550×10min}

Temp raised 800C10 min ,ThenDraining

Butter solution added {600C10 min} (PH Check at 4.5)

Dispersing /leveling agent with sequestering. (600C10 min)

Temp raised 800Cmin

20 grace (20c/ min) temp raised at 1300C 40 min

20 grade temp drop at 800C check

Drainin, 30 min

Normal wash with only water (800C 10 min)Added acetic acid 1%

Cotton dyeing(Previous Dyeing Process)

Unload

Note:-

(1) Polyester fiber or fabric can be dyeing with disperse dye and applied at hight

temperature is, 1300 -1400C.

(2) Disperse dyes have as conic groups and are insoluble in water.

(3) With the help of a dispersing agent dyes can be dispersed in the dye bath.

(4) Reduction clearing is done in case of medium and deep shade only to improve the

wash fastness.

(5) This high temperature process in non loxic and hygienic process.

(6) At high temp like 1300C acid getting weaker so for getting PH 4.5 Butter solution is used in

polyester dyeing process and it is strong acidic along with dispersing agent.

Some special note:-

(1) Polyester is a man made, synthetic polyester, polyester filament or staple fiber . The

most common polyester apparel filament or fiber is usually composed of polyester

lerephthalate polyester.

Process Flow chart for Torques combination (100% Cotton):

Fabric loading

Demineralization {Dosing time= 15 min 400C5min}

Temp raised at 500C 20 then Draining

Detergent {Dosing time= 5 min 500C5}+multifunction agent (Nobleach N) SDT=5 500C5

Caustic { Dosing time= 15min 500C5 min

Temp raised at 700C

Added H2O2 (50%) { Dosing time= 10 min 700C5}

Temp raised at 980Cmin

Sample check

Draining & wash (cold wash)

cat (800C 20 min)

(H2O2 Killer)Draining wash

Acetic acid {Dosing time 400C 5 min}

enzyme wash {550C 60min}

Run 600×20min

after PH Check added leveling agent

(anticilConz +Sarabid MIP) {Dosing time=10} 600C10}

Color dosing {Dosing time = 30min 600C10 min

Temp raised at 750C 20 grade

Salt added {Dosing time 20 min 750C10 min}

Temp dropped at 600C

Sample check

Soda ash added {Dosing time= 30 min 600C10

Color steam {600C40min}(Shade check)

Temp raised at 800C 20 min

Drain wash

Hot wash (Ultraw 350/RBR)

Unload fabric

Process flow chart for R(SPL) 100% Cotton :-

Fabric loadWetting agent multi function agent (500C 15)Caustic +H2O2{D.T= 10 500C}(bleaching) (Sousing)Tem raised 980C60Drain washnormal hot 90C 20NaturalizationAcetic acid (90C 20)Drain washCheck PH- 6.8Leveling with (Dosing time=- 10 330C10Enzyme dosing (330C10)Salt added {D,T =30 (330C10) }Dyes dosing {D,T =30 (330C10) }Soda added {1st step 20% 2nd step 80% }(D,T=10 min) (R.J =5 min)Temp raised 550C5color steam 550C30 minDrain WashSoaping 1%(800C20medium shade 90020dark shade steam 10Neutralization for 20 min with acetic acid

Drain wahs0.5% Ck for Hot wash(600C 20Medium shade 80010 dark shade) steam 10Drain washCheck PH, 5.2Softening with CWS {D,T =10 400C 20}Unload

Dyeing faults Causes and Remedies:

Uneven dyeing:

Causes:

Uneven Pretreatment Improper addition of color Improper addition of chemical Using dyes of high fixation properties Less control of dyeing machine Less circulation time

Remedies:

By ensuring even pretreatment By proper addition of color and chemicals Correct circulation time By controlling the dyeing machine properly

Batch to batch Shade variation

Causes:

Using improper dyes and chemicals Incorrect pretreatment procedure Batch to batch weight variation of fabric Batch to batch chemicals and dyes variation (lot variation) Improper dosing of dyes and chemicals

Remedies:

By using standard dyes and chemicals By correcting the pretreatment procedure By maintaining batch to batch weight variation By avoiding lot mixing of dyes and chemicals By correcting the dosing time of dyes and chemicals By following different dyeing parameter.

Dark colored spots:

Causes:

Dyestuff precipitation during dyeing Incompatibility of dyestuff used for producing combined shade Too high dyestuff concentration in the dye bath Precipitation of unabsorbed dyestuff during after treatment

Remedies:

By ensuring proper dyeing condition By selecting proper dyestuff By checking the solubility limit of the dyestuff before dyeing By ensuring proper after treatment

Patchy dyeing:

Causes:

Due to hardness of water Due to faulty color addition Due to faulty injection of alkali Due to improper salt addition Due to improper PH of solution

Remedies:

By using proper sequestering agent By correcting the color addition By correcting the salt addition By proper injection of alkali By maintaining the PH level of the solution

Crease mark:

Causes:

Poor opening of the fabric rope Due to high speed of machine running Unequal pump pressure and reel speed

Remedies:

By maintaining proper pump pressure and reel speed. By controlling the speed of the machine. Correct opening of the fabric rope.

Roll to roll variation:

Causes:

Poor migration property of dye. Hardness of water. Improper dyes solubility. Faulty machine speed.

Remedies:

Use standard dyes and chemicals Proper machine speed. Using soft waste.

Remarks

The dyeing process of Cotton Club (BD) ltd. is very much satisfactory. Cotton Club onlycares for quality. It is heard from the management of the company, after establishing thefactory till now, a single order is not cancelled. That’s why it is sure that the company is wellenough to produce quality fabric.

Chapter Nine:

Finishing section

Introduction of Finishing:

Textile finishing involves treating a textile material in such a way that the product has the

desired properties required for its intended useand therefore has great market value. The

desired properties may include the fabric dimensions and their stability, its weight, drape,

appearance, softness and handle, as well as any required functional properties such as

resistance to creasing, flame, water, oil, dirt or bacteria. Textile finishing is therefore an

extremely diverse field involving an extensive range of chemicals.

The degree of permanency of a particular finish for a fabric depends on its intended use. The

chemicals used may weigh the fabric to make it easy to slide and handle, or allow smooth

penetration of a sewing needle to minimize needle breakage.

Anyone involved in textile coloration must be aware of the influence of preparation process

on the dyeing behavior of the fabrics as well as the finishing chemicals on the final color of

the goods and on their color fastness properties. Without this knowledge, nobody can ensure

the ultimate color and its fastness properties.The techniques of finishing depend on the following:

Nature of the fabric,

i.e. chemical composition, state, weave etc. this determines the appearance,

i.e. transparency, luster, fullness, weight, whiteness etc.

After dyeing, knit fabric is required to finish. During dyeing all knit fabric are dyed in tubular

form. According to buyer's requirement knit fabric are finished in Open form or tubular form.

The tubular and open finishing sequences of Fakir KnitwearsLTD .Bangladesh Ltd are given

bellow

Flow Chart of finishing for tube fabric:

Dyed Fabric

Hydro extractor Tube Squeezer

Tube Compactor

Final Inspection

Delivery to Garments

Tube Dryer

Flow Chart of finishing for Open Width fabric:

Dyed Fabric

Open Squeezer

Stenter

Tumble dryer Ultra-soft

Compactor

Final Inspection

Delivery to Garments

Objective of finishing:

Improving the appearance — Luster, whiteness, etc

Improving the feel,this depends on the handle of the material and its softness,

suppleness, fullness, etc.

Wearing qualities, none — soiling, anticrease, antishrink, comfort, etc.

Special properties required for particular uses —water — proofing,flame proofing, etc.

Covering of the faults in the original cloth.

Increasing the weight of the cloth.

Types of finishing:

1) Chemical finishing:

2) Mechanical finishing:

Finishing effects:

Easy - care Crease recovery.

Dimensional stability.

Good abrasion resistance.

Improved tear strength.

Good sew ability

Soft or stiff handle.

Shine or luster

Observation of Different Finishing M/C:

Squeezer or De-Watering M/C

After dyeing process from the dyeing machine then the fabrics arc ready for dc-watering.This is the process to remove the water from the fabric partially by squeezing. This is themain function of the squeezing machine. But here also control the some important factor ofthe fabric quality.

Squeezer:-

Turntable (Basket)

Detwister

Ring Guide Speeder

Feed R/R

Dancing R/r

Water Pander

Ballon former

Extracting Squeezer

Dancin roller

Softener padder

Ballon Former

Padding squeezer

Main squeezer

Conveyors Blanket

Paliter

Delivery basket

Important parts

• Twist detector

• Expander

• Padder

The basic function of the squeezing m/c:

To remove the water from the fabric. To control the width of the fabric. To control the length of the fabric. To control the spirality of the fabric. To control the over feeding system. To increase the softness of the fabric. To remove the crease mark of the fabric.

Controlling points:

• Diameter setting must be accurate.

• Excess padder pressure may cause fabric damage. Padder pressure depends onfabric construction.

• Speed must be optimum.

• Higher the fabric speed leads less removal of water.

• Overfeed.

Dryer

Drying is defined as a process where the liquid portion is evaporated from the fabric.

Important Parts:

o Conveyor neto Chambero Burnero Exhaust air fano Over feed rollero Filter neto Fano Nozzle

The basic function of the dryer:

To dry the fabric.

To control the over feed system (Shrinkage control)To control the GSM of the fabric.

Controlling Points

o Overfeed (%): It depends on fabric structureo Temperature: It depends on color.o Speed: It depends on fabric construction and color. For higher GSM lower the

speed.

Compactor:-

Basket

Spindle R/r

Centering R/r

Under feed R/r

Over feed R/r

Tension control R/r

Bowing Control R/r

Brush R/r

Endless Clip /Pin

Steam box

Heated Conveyor Blanket

Coaling Fan

Take-Up-r/r

Plaiter

Delivering Basket

TUBE COMPACTOR

Important parts

Overfeed roller Expander Blanket Steam sprayers Cylinder Teflon covers

The basic functions of the Tube compactor machine

• To control the GSM. (Increase&decrease).

• To control the dia.

• To control the shrinkage. (Increase&decrease).

Controlling Points

a. Temperature : It depends on construction and composition &color of the fabric.

b. Speed : It depends on temperature and fabric construction.

c. Blanket Pressure: Fabric smoothness depends on blanket pressure.

d. Over feed : Over feed should be optimum. It increases GSM but higher over feedleads to the formation of crease mark.

Observation of tube compacter setting for different fabric

Fabric

parameter

Single jersey 1 x 1 Rib Collar, Cuff

Compector 30 30 N/A

Overfeed 5 12 N/A

Padder pressure 30 bar 30 bar 18 bar

Speed 18 m/min 18 m/ min 15 m/min

Temperature 100oC 100oC 100oC

OPEN COMPACTOR

Important parts

• Over-feed roller

• Blanket

• Steam sprayers

• Cylinder

• Tell on covers

The basic functions of the Open compactor machine

• To control the GSM. (Increase& decrease).

• To control the dia.

• To control the shrinkage. (Increase& decrease).

Controlling Points

a.Temperature :It depends on construction and composition & color of thefabric.

b. Speed : It depends on temperature and fabric construction.

c. Blanket Pressure : Fabric smoothness depends on blanket pressure.

d. Over feed :Over feed should be optimum. It increases GSM but higher overfeed leads to the formation of crease mark.

Observation ofopen compactor setting for different fabric :

Fabric

parameter

Single jersey CVC S/J L – Rib P.K. F/T

Required Dia 88’’ 92” 80” 104” 80”

Actual Dia 90” 94” 84” 108” 84”

Finished Dia 89” 93” 82” 106” 82”

Required GSM 160 180 240 200 240

Actual GSM 150 170 210 190 230

Finished GSM 155 175 220 200 240

Overfeed 12 12 10 12 10

Temperature 80oC 80oC 80oC 80oC 80oC

Slitting Machine

Slitter:

Basket (M/C)

J. Box (Padder)

Retested

SlitteringRevice (Shape &Knife)

Spindle R/r

Cantering R/r

Spindle R/r

Squeezer

Take-up-roller

Pleiter

Delivery Basket

Important parts

• Twist detector

• Cutting knife/device

• Padder

Main Function of Slitting m/c

To open the tube forms of fabric To squeeze the fabric and remove the extra water in the fabric.

Controlling Points

• Pressure: The padder pressure should be according to requirement.

• Speed-The speed should be optimum (30-80 m/min)

Stenter Machine

Stenter:-

Basket

Spindle R/r

Centering R/r

Spindle R/r

Water Padder

Squeezer (1) (4 PS1)

Dancing R/r

Spindle R/rSofternerPadder

Squeezer-2 (3PSI)

Dancing R/r

Bowing control R/r

Under feed R/r

Over feed R/r

Brush wheel

Endless Pin Chain

Steam BOx

Burner Chemicals

Cooling Fan

Take-up R/r

Planter

Delivering Basket

() Heat flow of BurnerGas fire

Blower fan

Nuzzle

Fabric

Important parts

Burner Exhaust air fan (4 ) Suction fan (8 ) Overfeed roller Nozzle Chain arrangement

The basic functions of the stenter machine

To control width.

To control GSM.

To control shrinkage.

To control spirality.

Drying of fabric.

To remove edge curl of the fabric

To remove the crease mark of the fabric

To remove the hardness of the fabric

To increase the better shade properties

To give belter finishing result of the fabric

Controlling Points

a. Temperature : It depends on color construction and composition of the fabric.For

S/J the temp is 150°C and 170°C for stripe fabrics.

b. Over feed : Over feed increases the GSM of the fabric.

c. Width setting : Higher width setting reduces the GSM.

d. Speed :It depends on construction and amount of moisture on the fabric.

Observation of stenter setting for different fabric

Fabric Inspection :

Fabric

parameter

Single jersey L – Rib P.K. F/T

Required Dia 88’’ 80” 54” 80”

Actual Dia 90.5” 88” 67” 84”

Required GSM 160 240 210 240

Actual GSM 148 218 185 232

Temperature 170oC 170oC 170oC 170oC

Overfeed 60% 45% 60% 40%

Machine speed 20 18 18 16

Dia setting 2310 mm 2400 mm 1720 mm 2150 mm

The finished fabric may have different kinds of faults. This may occur during Knitting,dyeing or finishing. If the fabric delivered then the quality of the fabric may not be good andthe buyer will reject the finished garments. For this reason careful inspection of this finishedfabric is so important. In finished fabric the following faults are generally found:

Fabric inspection report:

Here, 4- point system is used for inspecting goods. Spining knitting and processing

faults are inspected and enlisted here, commons fauls that are found here are yarn,

cont............... slub, neps hole, needle mark, niuker mark lyera miss/out, oil stain , crease

mark, softener mark, color spot mark, Bowing mark etc.

() 4 Point system:

Fault size –––––––––––– Points

0-3––––––––––––––––– 1

>3 -6–––––––––––––––2

>6 -9–––––––––––––––3

>9–––––––––––––––––––4

Hole –––––––––––––––––4

Acceptance

Up to 40 Points =A

41-60 Points =B

61-80 Points =C

80 above = Rejected

Calculation:

Roll length (YD) = Kg/ Roll 155036

PTS/100 lender YDS=

100

36)(

intwidthactualydlengthRoll

sPoTotal

Here, PTS= Total fault (%).

Shrinkage test report

This report is prepared according to buyer name order no. It can be done both for

finished fabric /T-shirts. Amount of shrinkage is expressed both in percentage (%) and in can.

Dyeing finishing Quality Report

This report contain information about roll no, M/C dia Required dia, Finished dia,

Finished GSM, Shrinkage (Length &widith wise) etc.

GSM Board

GSM of finished fabrics from different rolls of a Batch is around here with sample.

GSM of 50% acceptable from required.

Chapter Ten:

Quality Assurance System

Quality Assurance System

The quality assurance department is assigned to maintain consistently uniform quality of the

material; in process and various stages of its manufacturing.

The focus of the quality policy of Fakir Knitwear Ltd has been to provide products at a

price and service advantage through direct response mechanism. In order to sustain the

investments in the key technology area concerning our business, Fakir Knitwear have made

significant investment testing and quality assurance equipment from the best in the world in

each of our production bases and also ensured a Company-wide standardization discipline

through implementation of OEKO-TEX & ISO 9001:2000. These are reinforced periodically

through personal interactions between their filed representatives and consumer of their

products. Fakir Knitwear Ltd advance management team along with well-trained Quality

Assurance team ensures the best quality of products to meet the international standard.

The quality team follows some standardized international rules which are as

follows:

Fabric Inspection : 4 Points system (for Dyeing)Sewing In process : Traffic light systemFactory Garment Quality AQL : 2.5 AQLLine in Process : 7 Pcs systemNeedle detection report : 9 point systemQuality check station point Light : 1000 LucksMoreover the quality team creates various types of report for maintaining the best quality.

They always create GSM check report, Light box system report. The process of the quality

teams are:

Pattern test

Trial Inspection

In line Process

Pre-final process

Final Process

Fakir Knitwears Ltd is the only factory in Bangladesh that got the nomination from the world

renowned buyer H&M’s skip process. The In house quality team maintains the quality and

inspection of the H&M’s product and finishes the final inspection. They have also a GPQ

team to ensure the work process of quality team. This is for why they always maintaining the

best quality for their friend’s (buyers) products.

Quality Control:Quality control is concerned with the evaluation of test data and its application to control of

the textile process, raw materials, intermediate products and final products. It is concerned

not only with quality level and cost of maintaining this quality level but also concerned with

the presentation of tangible values to measure quality and changes in quality. In order to

control quality one must know about the consumers expectations.

Quality assurance:Quality assurance is defined as all those possible planned and systematic actions necessary to

provide adequate confidence than a product or service will satisfy given requirements for

quality. The Quality Assurance Department is assigned to maintain consistently uniform

quality of the material in process and various stages of its manufacturing

Quality Control Flow Chart:

Yarn receiving

Sample Knitting

Batching

Dyeing (Check shade & Faults of dyeing)

Dewatering & Untwisting

Drying (Check diameter, Pretreatment, Shrinkage Spirality andGSM)

Compacting

Final inspection

If sample OK go for bulk production

Quality Management system:Quality assurance procedure may be provided by the following two major parts-

Online quality control:Online quality control comprises with the raw material control, process control & finish

fabric inspection.

Raw material control:As the quality product depends upon the raw material quality, quality assurance department

must ensure that the best qualities of raw material (with economical consideration) are used

in

production.

The Yarn should be with a known concentration and high degree of purity.

The yarn & Lycra should be compatible with each other.

The fabric must be with out faults, with proper absorbency, whiteness as

per requirement of the subsequent process.

Process control: The method chosen for process must be provided with necessary

parameters.

During knitting, samples are taken and G.S.M checks with the reference

samples.

If not properly reset the machine parameter.

Sample is collected after fixation & matched.

During finishing, temperature, speed, padder pressure, overfeed should be

controlled as per requirement.

GSM, width, spirality, shrinkage (both length & width) should be

maintaining as per buyer requirement.

QualityControl

On-Line

Off-Line

Finish fabric inspection:

Purpose:To ensure that only an acceptable quality fabric is used for producing garments and

proper quantity of shipment is received from the supplier.

Scope:All produced and incoming fabrics of Fakir Knitwears Ltd.

Procedure: Store in charge will check the received fabric with the reported length,

color and type of fabric with the stated shipment document quantity and

the actual order quantity.

The finding will be recorded in inventory report and discrepancy regarding

fabric type, color and length will be notified to the Factory

Manager/Manager (Dyeing & Finishing).

For in-house products quality control officer will guide all over inspection.

1. Body & rib inspection:All rolls are kept in front of the inspection m/c time to time as require. The fabric are

spread over the milky white acrylic inspection board ensures high transparency and even

reflection of light. Then by the inspection machine fabrics are inspected visually at a

standard speed against light. For any major or minor faults like thick-thin, barre mark, fall

out, contamination, fly, holes, oil lines, needle line, slubsetc are recorded in inspection

report to classify the fabric based on the four points system.

2. Collar & cuff inspection:Collar & cuff are inspected visually under the light box. For any major or minor fault in

collar/cuff like having wrong ply, hole, needle line, slubs, wrong design, first round

problem etc are properly counted and recorded.

Quality inspector (fabric) shall check 100% of receive fabric for quality. He will identify

any defect, hole or stain in the fabric and make calculation given bellow-

Scope of Quality control and testing:The scope of quality control testing in FKL is little good. It has the following ability for

quality control & testing,

- Fabric inspection by 4-point system.

- GSM & Shrinkage test.

- Wash fastness test.

- Rubbing fastness test.

- Color difference check by data base.

- PH test.

- Pilling and snagging test.

Defects found in the final inspection:Oil mark/Spot Crease mark Shade dull/bright Color spot

Shrinkage Stripe Bowing/Skewing Uneven shade

Running shadeSticky mark Blake tripe problem Softener spot

Shade not OK (Occurred by buyer’s representative) Roll to rllo shade

variation

On-Line Tests:

For Pretreatment For dyeing

PH test Shade matching check

Absorbency test PH check

Fabric width measure Wash fastness Check

Whiteness test Machine checking

Water quality test

Off- line Quality Control:

FKL have all the facility for off-line quality control of the materials used and processed

materials. There are two types of materials are tested in GKL laboratory for the purpose of

quality control. This are –

A. Fabric testing.

B. Raw materials testing.

A. Fabric testing:All the Off-line tests for finished fabrics can be grouped as follows:

1. Physical Tests.

2. Chemical Tests.

Physical tests:

Fabric inspection by 4-point system.

G.S.M test.

Width of the fabric measure.

Rubbing test.

Pilling and Snagging test.

Shrinkage test

Twisting test

Chemical tests:

Color fastness to water.

Color fastness to wash.

Color fastness to perspiration.

Oxidative test damage.

Saliva test.

B. Raw material testing:

Yarn count test.

Yarn strength test.

Yarn TPI test.

Lycra count test.

List of Equipments:

Sl. No. Machine Name ModelNo.

SerialNo.

Manufacturer Built Year Origin

01 Auto Pill C 1401 145331 Mec EngineersLtd.

2005 India

02 PH meter 6173 PH JC 00385 Jenco Japan

03 Sample KnittingMachine

STN 5 E 290 GeengTyanEnterprise Co.Ltd.

1993 Taiwan

04 Auto Burst 28 C 0601 145340 MecEngineersLtd.

2005 India

05 Mec Sun Fast C 1399 145329 Mec EngineersLtd.

2005 India

06 Unistrength 250 C 1450 14939 Mec EngineersLtd.

2005 India

07 Crock meter James H. Heal& Co. Ltd.

England

08 Count Teste AEN 1433 OricineBrustioLtd.

2005 Italy

09 Sample Dryer DO-452 Precision OvenLtd.

10 Digioven C1301 145324 Mec EngineersLtd.

2005 India

11 Washcator FOM71CLS

Electrolux

12 Unistretch C 1451 14940 Mec EngineersLtd.

2005 India

Color Fastness:-The resistance of a material to change in any of its color characteristics, to transfer its

colorant to adjacent material or both as a result of exposure of the material to any

environment that might be encountered during the processing, testing , storage or use of the

material. Color fastness types:– Wash fastness to hot water as per ISO method– Wash fastness to cool water as per ISO method– Rubbing fastness (dry & wet)– Light fastness– Perspiration fastness– Dry cleaning fastness– Chlorinated or sea water fastness

Factors affecting color fastness:– Dye size or molecular structure of a dye– Types of bonding (i.e., ionic , co-valent, H-bond etc.)– Amount of dye present in fibre– Chemical nature of fibre or compatibility of dye with fibre– Presence of other chemicals like binder– The actual condition prevailing during exposure and after treatment

Reasons of color loss:– Due to decomposition of dye molecules– Due to removal of external media– Due to reaction of dye molecules with acid, alkali, or perspiration– Due to friction with other surface

Color fastness and other test result:Different types of fastness standard are given below:

Sl. No. Name of the fastness MethodsISO AATCC01 Color fastness to washing 105 CO1-C06 6102 Color fastness to light 105 BO2 16 E03 Color fastness to perspiration 105 EO4 1504 Color fastness to rubbing 105 * 12 805 Color fastness to hot pressing 105 * 11 13306 Color fastness to cool water 105 EO1 10707 Color fastness to sea water 105 EO2 10608 Color fastness to chlorinated water 105 EO3 10509 Color fastness to dry cleaning 105 DO1 132Measurement direction:

Buyer Name DirectionH & M Width WiseOther buyers (Tema, Pennyes, Primark) Length Wise

Fig: Bursting Strength Tester Fig: Pilling Resistance Tester

Rubbing fastness (ISO 105 X12):Sample size : 20cm×5cm

Crock fabric : 5cm×5cm

No. of rotation : 10

Time : 10 sec

Load : 9N±5%

Assessment:

Grey scale value for

staining

Rating Remark5 Excellent4-5 Good4 Good3-4 Average3 Average2-3 Average2 Poor1 Very poorWashing fastness (ISO 105 CO1-CO6):Sample size : 10cm×4cmAdjacent fabric : 5cm×4cmTemperature : 40CTime : 45 min

Assessment:

Grey scale value for

change value &

staining

Rating Remark

5 Excellent

4-5 Good

4 Good

3-4 Average

3 Average

2-3 Average

2 Poor

1 Very poor

Dimensional stability:Sample size : 10cm×10cmTemperature : 45CTime : 30 minAccepted range of shrinkage/extension is ±5%

Grey scale for assessing change in shade:

EN ISO 105-A03 / IUF 132 / VESLIC C 1211This Grey Scale is for assessing the degree of change in shade caused to a dyed Textile

fabric / yarn in color fastness tests. For example, the change of shade of wool and cotton

fabrics in the wash fastness, perspiration fastness etc. The scale consists of nine pairs of gray

color chips each representing a visual difference and contrast.

The fastness rating goes step-wise from:Note 5 = no visual change (best rating) to Note 1 = a large visual change (worst rating).

The gray scale has the 9 possible values:

5, 4-5, 4, 3-4, 3, 2-3, 2, 1-2, 1.

It is now quite common to measure the Grey Scale change in color instrumentally. This is

made using a suitable reflectance spectrophotometer according to the test method

procedure, EN ISO 105-A05.

Grey scale for assessing staining:

EN ISO 105-A03 / IUF 132 / VESLIC C 1211

This Grey Scale is for assessing the degree of staining caused by a dyed Textile / yarn in

color fastness tests. For example, the staining of wool and cotton fabrics in the wash fastness,

perspiration fastness, etc.

The scale consists of nine pairs of gray color chips each representing a visual difference and

contrast.

The fastness rating goes step-wise from:Note 5 = no visual change (best rating) to Note 1 = a large visual change (worst rating).

The grey scale has the 9 possible values:

5, 4-5, 4, 3-4, 3, 2-3, 2, 1-2, 1.

It is now quite common to measure the Grey Scale for assessing staining instrumentally. This

is made using a suitable reflectance spectrophotometer according to the test method

procedure, EN ISO 105-A04.

Chapter Eleven

Garment Section

Sample Section

Responsibilities:

Overall management of developing appropriate sample garments as per buyer'srequirement.

Conduct Fit & Pattern evaluation.

Make basic block pattern.

Ensure production as per planning and also ensure target of production with

standard of quality.

Coordinate merchandising team, procurement team, garments manufacturing team

for smooth production.

Ensure effective workforce management of the sample division for smooth

operation of the factory.

Coordinating all fabric + trims which are required for sampling purpose

Coordinating print, embroidery, wash for sampling.

Checking all the technical aspects of samples before releasing to customer.

Checking all the aesthetic aspects of samples before releasing to customer

Checking the quantity requirement of each sample.

Checking the necessary paper work of reach sample.

Follow up the buyer reg. each sample comments.

Usages Machineries:

In the sample making section they use all types of machines as in Garments section. These

arc

Set squares for making basic block.

Mack Km cutting machine

– Speed- 3000-3600

– Volts-220 V

– Current- 3.3/2.6 amp

- Cycle-50/60

Sewing machine

1 -Needle Lockstitch (auto thread trimmer)

1-Needle Chain. Stitch, Flatbed

2-Necdle Lockstitch

2-Nccdlc Chain Stitch, Flatbed

4-Thread Over Lock

-Bartack Machine (Computerized)

-Button Hole Machine

-Button Sewing Machine

-Blind Stitch (Over lock) etc.

Steam ironing

Machine Brand:

1. BROTHER (Japan)

2. Pl-GASUS (Japan)

They make three types of sample. Such as

1.Quotation sample:

At first they make a sample of medium size as per buyer requirements is called quotation

sample. If the sample is not ok they make another sample called revised quotation sample.

2.Size set sample:

If the quotation sample is ok then they make the samples of all size which are call size set

sample. If it is not ok the make revised size set sample.

3.Production sample:

Finally they make the sample for production called production sample

Working procedure:

The working procedure of sample making department is as follows

At first they collect the measurement chart from merchandizing dept.

Make basic block pattern by hand or by CAD (middle size only)

Cut the fabric according to the pattern (for 2-3 sample)

Then the dept. Head or coordinator provide the cutting sample to the sewing operatorand provide the measurement sheet by buyer.

Sew a sample according to buyer requirements

Inspect the sample after finishing.

The sample is then provided to merchandizing dept.

If it is ok they are called to make size set sample or if it is not ok they have to make

revised quotation sample

They make grading pattern by the CAD department

Make sample of all size as the same procedure and provide to merchandizingdepartment. If it is ok they make production samples or not they have to make revised

size set samples.

CAD (Computer Aided Design) Section

Responsibilities:

• Make basic pallern and production pattern.

• Make more efficient marker identifying each part of the Garments,

• Coordinate merchandising team, procurement team, sample section, garments

manufacturing team for smooth production.

• Make fabric consumption with allowance %, shrinkage% and total process loss %.

• Identify fabric diameter for each si/e of Garments.

• Make easy the fabric cutting.

Usage equipments:

1. Misfires software for pattern making.

2. Dimarien software for marker making.

3. Lectra printer for marker print.

Working procedure:

MARCHANDISING

Art work Spread sheet from Merchandiser

Making Pattern sewing. Allowance as per Spread Sheet+ Art Work for a large sizesample

Make an efficient marker As per Color Art Work

Calculate required fabric consumption with shrinkage% and process loss%

Marker Delivery to Concern Merchandiser for approval with consumption and fabricdiameter

Received buyer approval Master Pattern '%

Completion of Grading as per spread sheet sample

Grading pattern with marker send to cutting section for Trial cat / Size set

Pattern update after getting Report as per color wise

Delivery to cutting production

Considerable factor:

1.Sewing allowance

• All 95/5% cotton single jersey fabric 3cm for body length & 2cm for biceps

two side.

• All 100% cotton single jersey fabric 3cm for body length & 2cm for biceps

two side.

2.Shrinkage percentage

• All 95/5% cotton single jersey 5%x3°c shrinkage is added.

• All 95/5% cotton rib fabric 3% 2% shrinkage is added.

• All 100% cotton single jersey 3%X2% shrinkage is added.

• All 100% cotton rib no shrinkage is added.

• All lycra fabrics 5% shrinkage is added.

3.Process loss

For making actual fabric consumption the CAD section consider following process losses.

1. Temaconsumption lorall type of fabrics with bio finish

ActualConsumpt

ion

Color Cutfabrics

losses

Cut panel

losses

Sewinglosses

Print/Em

b losses

Processlosses

Totallosses

White 3% 2% 3% 1+1% 12% 22%

Light color 3% 2% 3% 1+1% 12% 22%

Medium color 3% 2% 3% 1+1% 10 20%

Dark color 3% 2% 3% 1+1% 8% 1 8%

Black 3% 2% 3% 1+1% 6% 16%

Grey mel. 3% 2% 3% 1+1% 5% 15%

II. H&M consumption for all type of fabrics with bio finish

ActualConsumpti

on

Color Cut

fabricslosses

Son in«

losses

Print/Em b

losses

Processlosses

Total losses

While 3% 3% 1+1% 12% 25%

Light color 3% 3% 1+1% 12% 20%

Medium color 3% 3% 1+1% 10% 28%

Dark color 3% 3% 1+1% 8% 16%

Black 3% 3% 1+1% 6% 14%

Grey mel. 3% 3% 1+1% 5% 13%

III Wash Garments consumption for all Buyer

Actual

Consiim

ption

Color Cut

fabrics

losses

Cut

panel

losses

Sewing

losses

Print/Em

b

Josses

Process

losses

Total

losses

White 3% 2% 6% 1+1% 12% 25%

.Light color 3% 2% 6% 1+1% 12% 25%

Medium color 3% 2% 6% 1+1% 10% 23%

Dark color 3% 2% 6% 1+1% 8% 21%

Black 3% 2% 6% 1+1% 6% 19%

Grey mel. 3% 2% 6% 1+1% 5% 18%

IV. Other buyer consumption for all type of fabrics without bio finish

ActualConsumption

Color Cut

fabricslosses

S cuinglosses

Print/Em

b losses

Processlosses

Totallosses

White 3% 3% 1+1% 10% 18%

Light color 3% 3% 1+1% 10% 18%

Medium color 3% 3% 1+1% 8% 16%

Dark color 3% 3% 1+1% 6% 14%

Black 3% 3% 1+1% 4% 12%

Grey mel. 3% 3% 1+1% 3% 11%

V. H& M and Tema consumption for all type of yarn dyed fabrics withbio finish.

Actual

ption

Color Cut

fabrics

losses

Sewing

losses

Print/Em

b

losses

Process

losses

Total

losses

Average color 6% 3% 1+1% 6% 17%

VI. Pigment dyed Garments consumption for all buyer

Actual

Consum

Ption

Color Cut

fabrics

losses

Cut

panel

losses

Sewing

losses

Print/Em

h

losses

Process

losses

Total

losses

Average color 3% 2% 12% 1+1% 6% 25%

Formula:

Fabric consumption in Kgmarkettheingarmentsofmember

markettheofareaTotlal no. of required garments

X process loss% x Fabric GSM

Fabric Diameter Marker diameter side space (1-2.5")

Note:

In the CAD section normally they calculate the fabric consumption for a large size sample.

For this, the amount of required fabrics is more. So fabric wastages are more. If it is possible

to evaluate the fabric consumption for each then some fabrics may be save. And it will be

beneficial for the Company.

Cutting section

In Fakir Knitwears Limited there are three cutting unit

1. Unit 1 (capacity- 70-80 thousand pcs per day)



Responsibilities:

• Collect the information from planning department about which fabrics have to becut.

• Collect the fabric Iron the finished fabric store.

• Collect the marker from CAD department.

• Fold the fabric according to the roll number.

• Spread the fabric in the cutting table with required diameter required amount.

• Cut the fabric according to the marker.

• Make the fabric according to the si/.e, lot, amount of pieces and etc

• Divide the fabrics according to the fabric roll number.

• Inspect the fabric.

• If required print the fabric.

• Store the fabric into input area and deliver the cut fabrics to the sewing department.

Working procedure:

File collect from planning department

Fabric collects from store

Marker come from CAD

Fabric folding by auto folding machine

Fabric spreading (Lay)

Marker setting on the lay

Cutting (By using Straight knife, and automatic cutter)

Sticker attaches & hand check

Reject part change

Bundling

If required Print / Embroidery

Store on input rack

Equipments usage:

1. Cutting table

• Unit 1-6

• Unit 2- 7

• Unit 3- 4

2. Auto folding machine

• Number- 4

• Brand-KONSAN .

3. Auto spreading Machine

• Number- 4

• Brand- fly

4. Auto cutter 1

• Brand- I.cctra

• Model- Vector M88K fashion

• Fabric diameter- upto 84"

• Software- Spread initial

5. Auto cutter 2

• Brand- Takatori

• Model- UN



6. Straight knife cutting machine

• Brand- KM

• Speed- 3000-3600

• Volts- 220 V

• Current- 3.3/2.6 amp

• Cycle- 50\60

7. Sticker attaching machine

8. Inspection table

9. Input rack

Requirements of fabric spreading:

Alignment of fabric ply

Correct ply tension

Fabric must be flat

Elimination of fabric Haws

(Correct ply direction

Elimination of static electricity

Easy separation of the cut lay into bundles

Avoidance of fusion of plies during cutting

Avoidance of distortion in spread

Matching cheeks or stripes

Must indicate the roll no. of the fabric ply.

4. Auto cutter 1

• Brand- I.cctra

• Model- Vector M88K fashion


• Soli ware- Spread initial

5. Auto culler 2

• Brand- Takatori

• Model- UN



6. Straight knife culling machine

• Brand- KM

• Speed- 3000-3600

• Volts- 220 V

• Current- 3.3/2.6 amp

• Cycle- 50\60

7. Sticker attaching machine

8. Inspection table

9. Inpm1 rack

Requirements of fabric spreading:

Alignment of fabric ply

Correct ply tension

Fabric must be flat

Elimination of fabric Haws

(Correct ply direction

Elimination of static electricity

Easy separation of the cut lay into bundles

Avoidance of fusion of plies during cutting

Avoidance of distortion in spread

Matching cheeks or stripes

Must indicate the roll no. of the fabric ply.

Process loss:

Fabric loss is a major contribution to material utilization. Minimizing fabric loss during

spreading can reduce the total production costs for garment manufacturing. This is the key

point which has been highlighted in this report. Today garment industry is facing very tough

scenario because of more competitors and less buyers, buyers have many options but

suppliers have very limited choices, the time has gone when there was quota system and

garment industry didn't need to be very many efficient but today suppliers are fighting for

price and quality; on fewer prices better quality is expected. Orders are given to the suppliers

who offer better quality and less prices. So within such scenario, only the things which can

increase profit and minimize loss of a company is fabric saving. Fabric loss in cutting section

may be for following reason.

Inefficient marker

Variation of fabric diameter

Higher GSM than required

More fabric faults

More dyeing faults.

Note:Strife fabrics and low GSM fabrics arc cut by hand cutting

Communication module of Sample, CAD and Cutting Section:

Merchandising

Printing/Embroidery

Sample

CAD

Cutting

Sewing

ChapterTwelve:

Cost Analysis

Cost analysis

Costing of the product:Costing system mainly describe how the cost of the final product is fixed by the company /

top managements. As it is a garments manufacturing factory, so according to the buyer /

customer requirements of final garments, merchandiser give the consumption of fabric with

specifications. Then it is calculated how much dyestuffs & chemicals are required for

processing. After that, the final cost is fixed including some profit. Then the unit price is

offered to the buyer for their approval.

Costing of a product includes: Yarn cost

Knitting cost

Dyes & chemicals cost

Cost of dyeing

Cost of finishing

Cost of cutting ,sewing, accessories etc

Cost of printing (If any)

Labor cost (direct & indirect)

Factory cost

Office & administrative cost

Sales and caring cost

Others cost

Profit, etc.

Price of different operation (Approx.):

Knitting Cost Single Jersey (Normal) : 8 Tk/Kg

Knitting Cost Single Jersey (Feeder Stripe) : 28 Tk/Kg.

Knitting Cost Single Jersey (Auto Stripper) : 120 Tk/Kg.

Dyeing +Finishing charge for medium shade: 85~90 Tk/Kg.

Dyeing +Finishing charge for deep shade : 100~110 Tk/Kg.

Tube finishing (Dewatering +Dryer + compactor) : 15-20 Tk/Kg.

The costing of the product is most secret matter of the Industry. They are not interestedto flash the cost related data. So we could not collect the Costing process of the products.

Production Cost Calculation: SpecificationProduct Type Single JerseyColor Combination 3 given SwatchFinish Dia 56 cmFabric Weight 10 KgCalculation:For dyeing total process lost: 12% to 15%.Say, Process lost: 12% for given sample.From given sample, we find out –Yarn count: 30/1 Ne.S L: 3.07 mm. or Finish GSM/S.L =? (When color yarn used for knitting)Gray GSM =?

M/C gauge =? (1 inch = No of loops (sample) = No of needles)No of feeder & No of active feeder =?M/C Dia =?Repeat= 2(white) +2 (maroon) + 4 (light blue) + 11(maroon) = 19 coloryarn/repeat. Total grey yarn to be purchased: (10 +1.2) kg = 11.2 kg.Yarn price/kg = 3.1 $ or 210 Tk.Total yarn purchased cost = 11.2 X 3.1$ = 34.72 $.

Cost for knitting section:

Color Machine

dia In

(Inch)

Machine

gauge In

(Inch)

No. of

feeder

No. of

active

feeder

No. of

cones

No. of

cones/c

olorMaroon 30 24 72 57 57 39LightBlue 12white 6

Cost for Dyeing section:

color Dyeing

wastes

Dyed

yarn

quantity

In (Kg)

Weight of

dyeing

yarn/color

In (Kg)

Dyeing

cost/kg

/color

In ( $)

Total Cost of

Dyeing / Color

In ($)

Total

Dyeing

Cost In

($)Maroon8 % 11.2 –11.2 X 8% =10.30

7.046 2.6 7.046 X2.6=18.32 18.32+ 3.68+ 1.52=23.52LightBlue 2.168 1.7 2.168 X1.7=3.68white 1.084 1.4 1.084 X =1.52

Say, washing & finishing cost = 60Tk/kg (Normal)Total washing & finishing cost = 10.30 X 60 = 618 Tk= 9.08 $So, Total fabric production cost = (34.72 + 23.52 + 4.24 + 9.08) $

Color Knitting

Wastes

Dyed yarn

quantity

In (Kg)

Weight of

yarn/cone/co

lor In (Kg)

Knitting

cost/kg/c

olor In

(Tk)

Total Knitting

Cost

Maroon0 % 10.30 kg 180.6 12 10.30 kg X 28= 288.4 Tk= 4.24 $LightBlue 180.6

white 180.6

=71.56 $Say, Overhead cost per kg fabric = 12tk.Overhead cost = 10.30kg X 12 Tk/kg = 123.6 Tk = 1.82 $.Profit 30 % = 22.1 $.Total cost = (71.56 + 1.82 + 22.1) $ = 95.48 $Total selling price per kg fabric = 9.548 $= 650 Tk.

Note:1. If yarn count change then yarn purchased cost change.

2. If yarn color change then dyeing cost increase / decrease.

3. If washing & finishing process change then washing & finishing cost change.

Remarks:The costing of the product is most secret matter of the Industry. They are not interested to flash the

cost related data. So we could not collect the Costing process of the products.

ChapterThirteen:

Maintenance

Maintenance

Maintenance;Maintenance is the process by which equipment is looked after in such a way that trouble

free. Services and increased machine life can be ensured and specific product quality required

by the customer is sustained. Maintenance can increased machine life and ensured trouble

free service

Maintenance of Machinery:

Preventive Maintenance:Preventive Maintenance is a predetermined routine actively to ensure on timeinspection or checking of facilities to uncover conditions that may lead to productionbreak downs or harmful description.Routine Maintenance:Maintenance of different machines is prepared by expert engineers of the maintenancedepartment. Normally in case of dyeing machine maintenance after 30 days completechecking if different important parts are done.Corrective Maintenance:Corrective Maintenance is done after a failure has occurred. Fakir KnitwearsLTD. has anexpert team for maintenance. When problem occurs they actively solve the problems.Maintenance Procedure:As a part of maintenance normally Fakir KnitwearsLTD. follows preventivemaintenance. During maintenance procedure following points has to be checked.Maintenance: Mechanical

Machine : Dyeing

ElectricalMaintenance

Maintenance

PreventiveMaintenance CorrectiveMaintenanceMechanicalMaintenance ElectricalMaintenance

RoutineMaintenanceMechanicalMaintenance ElectricalMaintenance MechanicalMaintenance

S/l No. Items need to be checked and serviced1 Complete cleaning of machine2 Check air supply of the machine3 Cleaning of inside of the m/c4 Greasing of unloading roller bearings5 Check water supply of the machine6 Checking of cooling valve7 Checking of steaming valve8 Checking exhauster9 Checking of heat exchangerMaintenance: ElectricalMachine : Dyeing

S/l No. Items need to be checked and serviced1 Check all motor terminals.2 Check main panels.3 Clean main inverter.4 Check all circuit breaker.5 Check all pressure switches.6 Visual checking of all power and control cables.7 Check all pneumatic solenoids.8 Check all emergency switches.9 Check all on/off switches.10 Check all signal isolator.

Chapter Fourteen

Utility Services

Utility Services

Available Utility Facilities:

Electricity

Gas

Water

Compressed air

Boiler etc.

Gas:

Mainly gas is delivered from TITAS. It is mainly used for steam production. Generally 36 m3

gas is required to produce 1 ton of steam.

Boiler:

Boiler is mainly used to produce and deliver steam to different section as required.

Fig: Boiler of boiler Fig: Steam Delivery Chamber

Problem associated for hard water in boiler:

1. Scale formation in boiler:

Scale thickness Heat loss (%)1 mm Approx 103 mm Approx 175 mm Approx 2210 mm Approx 3020 mm Approx 432. Reaction with soap:

3. Corrosion of boiler:

Five Boilers have been use by Fakir Knitwears Ltd.Model Serial no Brand Country Type Total

no’sDDHI 5.0-10 188/9 Omnica Germany Fire tube 2UL-S-1000 103730 Loos Germany 3

CaCO3 Mg (OH)2+ Boiler scaleMgCO3 Mg (OH)2 + CO2H2O+ CO2Mg (HCO3)2 Mg CO3 + H2O+Ca(HCO3)2 Ca CO3 + H2O+CO2

RCOONa MgSO4 (RCOO)2Mg Na2SO4+ +RCOONa CaSO4 (RCOO)2Ca Na2SO4+ +

H2Fe H2O Fe CO3CO2+ ++FeCO3 H2O Fe(OH)2 CO2+ +

Power plant:

Our Country’s most important issue is power sector. The government faces lots of problem

for supplying the power for industrial sector. Considering all these, at the very beginning of

establishment of Fakir Knit wears Ltd; Fakir Knitwears Ltd. using their own power generator.

They have vast setup for the own power source and generating 24 hour power system to

successfully running our whole project. They have:

Electricity:The main utility electricity is supplied by generator.Gas Generator:TotalNo’s Manufacturer Volts RPM Hz A KVA KW Generate/Day) Used/Day Duty Origin

04 Waukesha PowerSystems 415/24hr 1000 50 1565 1125 900 3.6 Mw 2.8MW Continuous USATotal power is then distributed as per requirements of different section like knitting,

Dyeing (yarn/ fabric), Finishing, Maintenance, WTP, ETP etc.

Compressor:

Compressor is mainly used to deliver compressed air to different section as

required. In FakirKnitwears Ltd. they usedcompressors to produce and deliver

compressed air to different section.Name Model Brand Countryof Origin TotalNo’s Total No.ofReserveTankDryer ASD-147 Kaeser Germany 5

02Compressor(Big) CSD-102 Kaeser Germany 5Compressor(Small) TEL-141 Kaeser Germany 5Generator VHP5904GSID WAUKESHA U.S.A. 6

Water Treatment Plant (WPT):Water for a textile plant may come from various sources. But this water can not be used

directly in textile processing because it contains various salts. These salts are mainly the

carbonates (CO32-), Hydrogen carbonates or bi-carbonates (HCO3

-), Sulphates (SO42-) and

Chlorides (Cl-) of Calcium (Ca2+), and Magnesium (Mg2+). These are called hardness in the

water. These must be removed though water treatment plant.

Water is supplied in different sections continuously by using submersible and centrifugal

pumps.

Methods of expressing the water hardness:

1. In Degrees, and

2. PPM (parts per million)

Hardness measurement calculation:Required EDTA * 1000 * EDTA factorTotal amount of waterPPM =

There are different types of water softening process:1. Soda lime process.

3. Base Exchange process.

4. Demineralization.

5. Soda alum process.

6. Aeration process.

7. Chelation on sequestration.

In Fakir Knitwears Ltd. follow the base Exchange water softening process for softening the

hard water.

Base Exchange process:

This methods depends upon the use of zeolite or Base Exchange complexes. The zeolites are

hydrated silicates of sodium & aluminum with a general formula.

(Na2O)X (Al2O3)Y(SiO2)Z (H2O)n

The following reaction occur when contact with hard water.

For temporary hardness,

For permanent hardness,

In where Z is the abbreviation for the Al2O3 SiO2 H2O part of Zeolite.

Regeneration:

1 kg resin required = 200 gm salt

Salt : water = 1 kg : 4.5 L

Used water = 6500000 Ltr/Day

Ca (HCO3)2 CaO.Z+ Na2CO3 H2O+Na2O.Z +Mg (HCO3)2 MgO.Z+ Na2CO3 H2O+Na2O.Z +CaSO4 CaO.Z+ Na2CO3Na2O.Z +MgSO4 MgO.Z+ Na2CO3Na2O.Z +

CaO.Z NaO.Z+ CaClNaCl +

The CaCl and residual NaCl washed away and the regenerated Na2O.Z can be used to soften

the hard water again.

Chapter Fifteen

Waste Management system:

Waste Management System

Following wastes are produced in the factory:

Yarn

Fly yarn

Projectingfibre

Plastic bag

Dust

Dust of fabric

ETP:Effluent is the stream of excess chemical liquor extracted from an industry after using in originaloperation. In the case of dyeing industry, the excess dye liquor extracted from textile industryafter dyeing is an effluent of that industry.Fakir Knitwear’s Ltd commitment to the environment can be gauged from the fact they seek tomeet all the legal norms. Taking for instance the establishment of ETP & WTP because theyhave, nothing is more important than the maintenance of pollution-free environment. FakirKnitwears Ltd. Establish a ETP plant which is the biggest and no.1 ETP plant in Bangladesh.

Process sequence: Screen brushLifting pump unit

Storage tankNeutralization tank

Distributor tankBiological oxygen tank

Sedimentation feeding tankSedimentation curve

Fig: ETP Plant

Sludge return pump slumpSludge thickener

Filter pressUsed chemicals:

Sodium hypochlorite Nutrient salt Anti foam Sulphuric acid Poly electrolyte decolorant

Testing lab instrument:

microscope BOD sensor system Thermo reactor Spectrophotometer Digital muffle furnace Portable DO meter Portable DO meter Micro-processor PH meter Electrical balance

Waste Water Treatment Plant (WWTP)

Parameter Unit Conc. Present Dept. of environment govt. of

BangladeshInlet OutletBOD 281 23 50

COD

PPM

730 56 200TDS 2730 1811 2100TSS 204 31 150EC 5210 3403 1200DO 0.1 4.6 4.5 – 8Chloride - >200 600Phosphate 2.6 2.2 8Nitrite 0.15 0.08 50Nitrate 0.9 0.6 10Ammonium 0.09 .07 5Sulphate - 27 -Arsenic - - 0.2Cobalt - - -Cynanide - - -PH - 10.2 7.8 6 – 7Tepm. °C 41 37 40Cadmium PPM - - 0.05chromiun PPM - - 0.5Chapter Sixteen

Conclusion

ConclusionThere is large difference between the theoretical knowledge and practical experiences.This is truer in case of the study of Textile Technology. Industrial attachment or,Industrial training is an essential part for textile education because it minimizes the gapbetween theoretical and practical knowledge. The Industrial training increase ourthough a lot about textile technology. It also helps us to know a lot about industrialproduction process, machineries, and industrial management and made us suitable for

industrial life. Besides it gives us the first opportunity to work in industry. So we can sayindustrial attachment prepare us for the expected destiny of practical life.We have completed my industrial attachment fromFakir Knitwears Ltd.During my twomonths long industrial training at Fakir Knitwears Ltd. We got the impression that thisfactory is one of the modern export oriented composite knit garments industry of ourcountry. This factory does not compromise in case of quality. So, they have establishedon-line and off-line quality control of each product. Besides, they also use the goodquality yarn, dyes and chemicals in their production process. Due to this, it has earned a“very good reputation” in foreign market for its quality product over many other exportoriented textile mills. It has very well educated and technically experienced manpowerto get rid of any defect in production process. It has also a good organizationalhierarchy.

My Achievements: We have got a lot of knowledge about the laboratory work and the stepsthat should be maintained before bulk production. We have identified the process sequence dyeing and gathered adequateknowledge about each process sequence. We have earned some mechanical knowledge about dyeing machine. We have found some special points that should be considered duringdyeing production. We have understood about industrial environment and administration.

Some suggestion: Industrial salt should not be used because it corrodes the inner parts ofdyeing machine. Dyeing production needs to increase as well as technical persons need tobe employed there?

More skilled labor should be used in a project and the overall efficiencywill have to be increased. Dyeing machine must keep dust free. There need proper handling of the machine. Check all production parameter regularly. Dyeing floor should keep always net and clean. It kept wet after unloadingthe fabric from the dyeing machine specially, for Athena. Water must beswept time to time. During the transport of the fabric and during the loading of the m/c,fabrics get soiled due to their drawing over the floor. This makes thefabric/part of the fabric dirty. It may require more scouring/bleachingagent or may create stain. Due to the pressure of higher production sometimes machine operatorsdo not maintain accurate time according to the actual process so that lessquality product is produced and may reject. So need to be increasedmachine and reduce the pressure on the operator. Should increase understanding between the top level personal and floorlevel personal. Finishing section need to be enlarged well as more technical persons needto be employed there? The m/c stoppage time should be analyzed and minimized. Themaintenance should be carried out when the m/c is out of action(Wherever possible) and routine maintenance should be carried outregularly.

In the Laboratory there is no technical person, a textile engineer may beemployed here. There is shortage of proper light in the dyeing and finishing floor,specially, when smoke is produced from dryer and stenter. Properlighting should be provided in the floor. The person at the top level of a department must take good care of thetrainees & he should provide all kinds of support to them.

Limitations of the report: Because of secrecy act, the data on costing and marketing activities havenot been supplied. We had a very limited time. In spite of our willing to study more it was notpossible to do so. Some information in different sections are not included as these were notavailable. It is not possible to hold the whole thing of a textile industry in such asmall frame as this report. So, try our hard to summarize all theinformation that we are provided.

industrial attachment of fakir knitwears ltd

Education