Present Scenario of Indian Weaving IndustryDespite the fact that the Indian weaving industry employs a large section of the Indian population, it is considered as a failing industry. Though this ancient industry of India is experiencing a bad phase, a large market for weaving products still exist both in the international and domestic market. The manufacturing of the weaving products makes a remarkable contribution to the national GDP and even in the exports revenue.

As per studies, it has been found out that the weaving industry of India provides employment to approximately 12.5 million people, thereby, making this industry the largest provider of rural work force. It is preceded by the agriculture sector.

Over 38, 00,000 weaving industries have been built throughout India, and more than 15, 00,000 domestic weaving industries have been set up in the states of North and Eastern parts of India. On the other hand, the southern states also have their huge share of weaving industries, for example, the southern state of Andhra Pradesh houses some 3, 20,000 weaving industries. Most of these industries are situated in Chirala, Pedana, Polavaram, Mangalagiri, Pochamapali, Ponduru, Dharamvaram, Narayanpet, Puttapaka, Madhavaram, Emmiganur and Gadwal. Along with these centers, the coastal areas of Andhra Pradesh also have numerous centers for weaving. All these sectors are engaged in the production of unique varieties of weaving products. Both the weaving sectors of northern and southern India are engaged in the weaving production for the domestic market only.

Estimates over the years have found out that the weaving industry are supporting some 32 other sectors that include marketing, financial, transportation, hotels and even maintenance services.

The weaving industry in India has self-depending mechanism that includes training the young weavers, abundance of resources and capacities, thereby, helping the industry not to be dependent on the Government. In addition, weaving is eco-friendly, and is aimed at the cutting back on the environmental impact.

India Weaving Industry - Market PlayersSome leading Indian companies engaged in the India weaving industry are:

Jai India Weaving Mills Private Limited: Dealing with manufacturing and exporting of weaving products.

Vardhaman Spinning: Manufacturer and exporter of weaving products Arvind Mills: Manufactures and trades weaving products Advance Syntex Pvt. Ltd.: Manufacturer of weaving products

Future Scenario

It is estimated that the weaving industry in India will grow by 25% to over 35 million tons by the year 2010. The Indian weaving industry will maintain its growth throughout 2010. Apparel being

the mostly used woven products is expected to expand its market in the international arena as well.

Introduction

 

 

Dyeing

All dyeing is done by women, and it is ana, or forbidden, for men to take part in the operation, as it is believed that any man who touches dye or a cloth that is being dyed will be unable to shoot any game, and will be especially liable to suffer from consumption. The reason why participation in dyeing results in bad luck in the chase is rather complicated. Animals are terrified of blood, and consequently are very afraid of the women due to the menstrual flow. The hands of man who takes part if dying are strained with the blue dye, and the smell of the dye hangs about them. The souls of the wild animals scent this at once, and when such a man approaches, they associate him in their minds with women, become very frightened, and refuse to allow him to approach them. Hence, a man who helps his wife to dye cloth is always unlucky in the chase. 

For dyeing the people of Mizoram, use blue and yellow colours generally. There are three methods of dyeing blue colour. The first is with the leaves of wild indigo (strobilanthes flaccidifolius). The leaves are boiled in water, and when they have been on the boil some time are taken out of the pot, squeezes into a wooden trough and placed on one side; the water from the pot is also poured into the trough. To this indigo water ashes are added and the thread to be dyed is placed in the trough and thoroughly kneaded in the dye. After this, the thread is taken out of the dye, wrung out and replaced in the trough, and the boiled-up indigo leaves, which were squeezed, into the trough are placed on top of it. The thread is left to soak for three days. After this it is wrung out and hung up in the sun to dry. After a month the process is repeated and again a month later, as unless the cloth is dipped three times the dye will not be fast.

The second method is to crush the bark of the azeu tree in a mortar. The crushed bark is then boiled and the liquid is stained off. The thread to be dyed is steeped in the liquid, and as soon as it is thoroughly wet is taken out and buried in mud, where it is left for three days, after which it is taken out and washed. This

process has to be gone through twice to make the colour fast. 

The third process is carried out in the same way as the second, except that the leaves of the awhmangbeupa tree are used instead of the azeu tree. To dye thread yellow the people crush the roots of the turmeric plant and boil them with the thread to be dyed. Two boiling are necessary. The Mizo people also use red dye.

The dresses worn by the Tribes of Mizoram

Lusei

Apparals

The men’s dress could not well be simpler, consisting as it does of a single cloth about 7 feet long and 5 wide. It is worn as follows: - one corner is grasped in the left hand and the cloth is passed over the left shoulder, behind the back, under the right arm across the chest and the end thrown over the left shoulder. Although it would appear probable, that clothing so loosely done would be continually falling off yet as a matter of fact, accidents of that sort seldom occur. In cold weather, one or more cloths are worn one over the other and also a white coat, reaching well down the thigh but only fastened at the throat. These coats are ornamented on the sleeves with bands of red and white of various patterns. When at work in hot weather the people wraps his cloth round the waist, letting the ends hang down in front, and should he find the sun warm and if he is wearing two cloths he will use one as a puggri.  Puggris are sometimes worn when out in the sun for long and some affect rather a quaint style, twisting the cloth round the head so as to make an end stand up straight over each ear. All these garments are of cotton, grown locally and manufactured by the women of the household. The cloths in general use are white, but every man likes to have two or three blue cloths ornamented with stripes of various patterns. 

The dress of the chief is the same as that of the common people, except on occasions of ceremony, when they wear dark blue cloths, with red lines of a particular pattern and plumes made of the tail feathers of the king crow, in their hair knots. These plumes are very much priced and are kept most carefully in bamboo tubes and leather caps. The cloth referred to above can also be worn by anyone who has given certain feasts.  The women’s dress

The women are no more addicted to fine clothes than their men folk. All women wear the same costume; a dark blue cotton cloth, just long enough to go round the wearer’s waist with a slight over-lap, and held up by a girdle of brass wire or string, serves as a petticoat which only reaches to the knee, and only other garments being a short white jacket and a cloth which is worn in the same manner as the man. On gala days, the only addiction to the costume is a picturesque headdress worn by girls while dancing. This consists of a chaplet made of brass and coloured cane, into which are inserted porcupine quills, and to the upper ends of these are fixed the green wing-feathers of the common parrot, tipped with tufts which hang strings of glistering wing covers of green beetles. The women smoke as much as the men and have a special pipe, a miniature hookah about 9 inches high. 

 

Special attire

A single cloth is wrapped tightly around the waist, a haversack protected by a bear or tiger skin guard over one shoulder, and a fighting dao or dah over the other, and a gun in his hand completed each warrior’s equipment. a man who had earned a title of “Thanhchhuah” is allowed to wear a cloth of a certain pattern and those who have killed men in war have special head-dresses, known as “chhawndawl” and “arke-ziak”.

 

Hmars

The Hmars weave many designs and some of the important ones are: 

Thangsuo Puon: in Hmars language, Thangsuo Puon means famous cloth. It is a handloom cloth for the persons who earned the right to wear this by killing the maximum number of enemies in a war. Their wives are also allowed to use this cloth.

Puon Laisen: puon Laisen is a red striped cloth. In Hmar language, it means cloth with middle in red colour, but the center has two black stripes. The cloth has several designs like Sakat Zang Zie, Disul, etc. 

Hmarm: the females use the lion cloth, but gradually it is going out of use. It has only three designs, Varoul (means flocks of birds). This symbol represents the eye of the bird. Ngaruzie means bones of fish. The last one is Kokpuizik Zie looks like a plant intertwined. 

Zakuolaisen: this is a blouse piece used mainly by the unmarried girls. Among the Hmars Zakuo means blouse, Lai means middle and Sen means red. Thus, it means a piece having a red stripe through the middle of the cloth. 

Paiteis

Paiteis do not weave many indigenous designs in their cloth but whatever little designs are woven seems to be indigenous and seems they attach distinctive value to those. 

Thangou Puon: the most important cloth among the Paiteis is Thangou Puon. There are some restrictions imposed on the use of this cloth. Unless a Paitei kills his enemies either in inter-tribal feud or in general war, he is not entitled to wear a cloth with this design. The other alternative is to harvest the largest quantity of crop in the village and the Paitei who actually performs this is allowed to wear the Thangou Puon.

Puon Dum: it is a National cloth of Paiteis and is used at the time of condolence, official meetings, observance of National Day, etc. Puon Dum actually means a black cloth, but the cloth has only stripes of black along the white, yellow, red and green stripes. 

Jawl Puon: Jawl in Paitei language means friend and betrothed lover. The cloth is also named Shashengsin Puon meaning a cover cloth for a basket with meat carried by a married girl going first time to her husband’s house. The girl either present this cloth to her husband or husbands married sister. The Jawl Puon has nine red stripes and eight black stripes alternately arranged running vertically throughout

the length of the body. There are two rows of Shial Ltun design seperated from each other and the end borders have motifs resembling the eyes of birds in yellow, pink, red and green colour. 

Puon Pie: it is a type of quilt woven cloth; it is compulsory for every girl to bring one such cloth to her husband’s house after her marriage.

 

Riang

The Riang also have the same dresses as the people of the other communities of Mizoram. Apart from the other dresses, the riang during the marriage ceremony give the following clothes as the bride price during the marriages1. Khutai: a kind of upper garment2. Arnai: a kind of lower garment3. Marki: fifteen feet of white cloth.

 

GLOSSARY Arnai Lower garment Biah turban Dawlrem Kawr woman’s attire Jainkup scarf Jainsem women’s garment Kawppui zikzial embroidered hand woven cloth Majetro Shawl Phanya women’s upper garment Puanbu weaving material Puandum a kind of cloth Pusnbu weaving material Puanhlap cotton cloth for men Puanpui quilt/blanket Risa piece of cloth for covering the breast.  Ritami weaving

Indian weaving industry – An overviewPosted by gopali on January 25, 2011 in Weaving | 0 Comment

By Dr. N. Vasugi Raaja, Professor, Dept. of Textiles and Clothing, Avinashilingam Deemed University, Coimbatore

India is at the brink of a revolution. From emerging as the sourcing hub for technology led service, it is looking at a transition into becoming the world’s production center for value added products.

India has always been known for the high quality of its textile products. Strong raw material base such as cotton and polyester and with its core competencies in producing woven fabric, knitwear and value added textiles; the future potential to market these products at the global level looks promising.

The textile industry holds significant status in the country. The industry provides one of the most fundamental necessities of the people. It is an independent industry, from the basic requirement of raw materials to the final products, with huge value-addition at every stage of processing.

Dr. N. Vasugi Raaja

Today textile sector accounts for nearly 14 per cent of the total industrial output.

Indian fabric is in demand with itsxethnic, earthly colored and many textures. The textile sector accounts about 30 per cent in the total export.

This conveys that it holds potential if one is ready to innovate.

The textile industry is the largest industry in terms of employment economy, expected to generate 12 million new jobs by 2010. It generates massive potential for employment in the sectors from agricultural to industrial.

Employment opportunities are created when cotton is cultivated. It does not need any exclusive Government support even at present to go further. Only thing needed is to give some directions to organize people to get enough share of the profit to spearhead development.

Cotton textiles, i.e., yarn, fabrics and made-ups (mill-made / powerloom / handloom) constitute more than 2/3rd of our exports of all fibres / yarns / made-ups. During 2007-08, the cotton textiles exports have amounted to US$6.85 billion, recording a healthy increase of 23.14 per cent over the exports during previous year. During April-December 2008, the cotton textiles including handlooms exports have amounted to US$3,765 billion, recording a decline of 11.39 per cent over the exports during the corresponding period of 2007. During 2007-08, the man-made textiles exports have amounted to US$3,176 billion, recording an increase of 32.38 per cent over 2006-07. During April-December 2008, the man-made textiles exports have amounted to US$2.58 billion, recording a growth of about 12.07 per cent over the exports during the corresponding period of 2007.

Indian weaving industry has conventionally been one of the most promising sectors of huge employment. In fact, after agriculture, this industry is the largest provider of work force. The abundance in the raw materials, the continuous supply of cheap work force is the contributing factors behind the success of the weaving industry of India. However, the liberalization of the international trade coupled with change in the reforms of domestic economy, affected the weaving industry of India negatively.

As described in the chart, India has lowest number of shutteless looms among all competing countries. While competitors like China and Indonesia are far ahead in this modernization. The US and Russia has highest proportion of modern shuttleless looms.

Future scenario

It is estimated that the weaving industry in India will grow by 25 per cent to over 35 million tons by the year 2010. The industry will maintain its growth throughout 2010. Apparel being the mostly used woven products is expected to expand its market in the international arena as well.

SWOT analysis

Strengths

• India enjoys benefit of having plentiful resources of raw materials. It is one of the largest producers of cotton yarn around the globe, and also there are good resources of fibres like polyester, silk, viscose, etc.

• There is wide range of cotton fibre available, and has a rapidly developing synthetic fibre industry.

• India has great competitiveness in spinning sector and has presence in almost all processes of the value chain.

• Availability of highly trained manpower in both, management and technical. The country has a huge advantage due to lower wage rates. Because of low labor rates the manufacturing cost in textile automatically comes down to very reasonable rates.

• The installed capacity of spindles in India contributes for 24 per cent share of the world, and it is one of the biggest exporters of yarns in the global market. Having modern functions and favorable fiscal policies, it accounts about 25 per cent of the world trade in cotton yarn.

• The apparel industry is largest foreign exchange earning sector, contributing 12 per cent of the country’s total exports.

• The garment industry is very diverse in size, manufacturing facility, type of apparel produced, quantity and quality of output, cost, requirement for fabric, etc. It comprises suppliers of ready-made garments for both, domestic or export markets.

Weakness

Massive fragmentation: A major loop-hole in Indian textile industry is its huge fragmentation in industry structure, which is led by small scale companies. Despite the government policies, which made this deformation, have been gradually removed now, but their impact will be seen for some time more. Since most of the companies are small in size, the examples of industry leadership are very few, which can be inspirational model for the rest of the industry. The skilled labor is cheap in absolute terms; however, most of this benefit is lost by small companies.

Political and Government diversity: The reservation of production for very small companies that was imposed with an intention to help out small scale companies across the country, led substantial fragmentation that distorted the competitiveness of industry. However, most of the sectors now have been de-reserved, and major entrepreneurs and corporate are putting-in huge amount of money in establishing big facilities or in expansion of their existing plants. Secondly, the foreign investment was kept out of textile and apparel production. Despite some motivating step taken by the government, other problems still sustains like various taxes and excise imbalances due to diversified into 35 states and Union Territories. However, an outline of VAT is being implemented in place of all other tax diversifications, which will clear these imbalances once it is imposed fully.

Labour laws: In India, labour laws are still found to be relatively unfavorable to the trades, with companies having not more than ideal model to follow a ‘hire and fire’ policy. Even the companies have often broken their business down into small units to avoid any trouble created by labour unionization. In past few years, there has been movement gradually towards reforming labour laws, and it is anticipated that this movement will uphold the environment more favorable.

Distant geographic location: There are some high-level disadvantages for India due to its geographic location. For the foreign companies, it has a global logistics disadvantage due the shipping cost is higher and also takes much more time comparing to some other manufacturing countries like Mexico, Turkey, China, etc. The inbound freight traffic has been also low, which affects cost of shipping – though, movement of containers are not at reasonable costs.

Lack of trade memberships: India is serious lacking in trade pact memberships, which leads to restricted access to the other major markets. This issue made others to impose quota and duty, which put scissors on the sourcing quantities from India.

Opportunities

The industry has the potential of attaining $34bn export earnings by the year 2010. The regulatory polices is helping out to enhance infrastructures of apparel parks, Specialized textile parks, EPZs and EOUs. The Government support has ensured fast consumption of clothing as well as of fibre. A single

rate will now be prevalent throughout the country. The Indian manufacturers and suppliers are improving design skills, which include different fabrics according to different markets. The country’s fashion industry and fashion designers are marking their name at international platform. Indian silk industry that is known for its fine and exclusive brocades, is also adding massive strength to the textile industry.

Government initiatives

The Scheme for Integrated Textile Parks is a collective initiative of the Government of India, a vision that aims to create cluster models to aggregate the capacities and harness the collective potential of small and medium textile companies.

The scheme has identified 34 such parks across the country with a capital investment of US$4 billion. The parks facilitate existing textile entrepreneurs with potential to upscale production capabilities, benefit from a common infrastructure resource with a minimum contribution from entrepreneurs, match global production standards, and cater to a ready worldwide market potential

Threats

The Indian loom industry is small scale unlike industry of China and Taiwan and therefore incurs high coordination cost. Higher power tariff is also one of the biggest challenges this industry is facing. Unlike spinning industry weaving loom sector is mostly concentrated in small areas of nations, where power fluctuation is a matter of routine. Productivity also gets affected time to time by fluctuation in power in such areas. Through Technology Upgradation Scheme (TUFS), Government is trying to modernize these sector and make import of latest technology looms easier and affordable. Still India lags behind in productivity due to outdated technology and low penetration of shuttleless looms. Advance technology installation demand skilled labor to understand and install such facilities, shortage of skill labor is also a roadblock in adaptation of new technology in weaving loom industry.

Overview Since the time of independence, the small-scale sector in India has been a major contributor to country’s Gross Domestic Product (GDP). This traditional sector in India is considered to have huge growth prospect with its wide range of products. With 40 percent share in total industrial output and 35 percent share in exports, the small-scale industrial sector in India is acting as Engine of Growth in the new millennium.

The definition for small-scale industrial undertakings has changed over time. Initially they were classified into two categories- those using power with less than 50 employees and those not using power with the employee strength being more than 50 but less than 100. However the capital resources invested on plant and machinery buildings have been the primary criteria to differentiate the small-scale industries from the large and medium scale industries. An industrial unit can be categorized as a small- scale unit if it fulfils the capital investment limit fixed by the Government of India for the small-scale sector.

As per the latest definition which is effective since December 21, 1999, for any industrial unit to be regarded as Small Scale Industrial unit the following condition is to be satisfied: -

Investment in fixed assets like plants and equipments either held on ownership terms on lease or on hire purchase should not be more than Rs 10 million.

However the unit in no way can be owned or controlled or ancillary of any other industrial unit.

The traditional small-scale industries clearly differ from their modern counterparts in many respects. The traditional units are highly labor consuming with their age-old machineries and conventional techniques of production resulting in poor productivity rate whereas the modern small-scale units are much more productive with less manpower and more sophisticated equipments.

Khadi and handloom, sericulture, handicrafts, village industries, coir, Bell metal are some of the traditional small-scale industries in India. The modern small industries offer a wide range of products starting from simple items like hosiery products, garments, leather products, fishing hook etc to more sophisticated items like television sets, electronics control system, various engineering products especially as ancillaries to large industrial undertakings.

Nowadays Indian small-scale industries (SSIs) are mostly modern small-scale industries. Modernization has widened the list of products offered by this industry. The items manufactured in modern Small-scale service & Business enterprises in India now include rubber products, plastic products, chemical products, glass and ceramics, mechanical engineering items, hardware, electrical items, transport equipment, electronic components and equipments, automobile parts, bicycle parts, instruments, sports goods, stationery items and clocks and watches.

Since independence the Government of India has nurtured this sector with special care with the following aims: -

To develop this sector as a major source of employment To encourage decentralized industrial expansion To ensure equitable distribution of income. To mobilize capital investment and entrepreneurship skills

Statistics of Indian Textile Weaving Machinery

Production

Value in Rs. Millons

Section of Textile Machinery

2005-06

2006-07

2007-08

2008-09

2009-10 (P)

Weaving & Allied Machines 4445 5810 6216 4104 4950

Import

Value in Rs. Millons

Description Heading No.

2005-06

2006-07

2007-08

2008-09

2009-10

Weaving Machines (Looms) 84.46 15275 12596 11057 8717 10000

Export

Value in Rs. Millons

Description Heading No.

2005-06

2006-07

2007-08

2008-09

2009-10

Weaving Machines (Looms) 84.46 119 247 215 4466 150

WEAVINGthe art of forming a fabric by interlacing at right angles two or more sets of yarn or other material. It is one of the most ancient fundamental arts, as indicated by archaeological evidence. Discoveries in the early 1990s in the Czech Republic point to an origin in the Paleolithic period some 27,000 years ago. Moreover, the earliest literatures often mention the products of the loom. In primitive cultures weaving was practiced mainly by women.

Although weaving sprang up independently in different parts of the world and was early known in Europe, its high development there in the Middle Ages was brought about by Eastern influences operating through Muslim and Byzantine channels of culture. Byzantium became a center of silk weaving in the 6th cent. In the 9th cent. Greece, Italy, and Spain became proficient. In Flanders a high degree of skill was attained by the 10th cent., especially in the weaving of wool. Flemish weavers brought to England by William the Conqueror and later by Queen Elizabeth I gave a great impetus to the craft there, and Lancashire became an

important center. Tapestry weaving was brought to a high art in France. In colonial America weaving was a household industry allied with agriculture.

The 18th-century weaving and spinning inventions marked the transition from the old era of domestic craftsmanship to the tremendous, organized industry of today. The factory system of machine weaving produces quantities of standardized material for mass consumption; the result is a loss of the distinctive elements of quality and design. Some of the finest silks, velvets, table linens, and carpets are still woven on handlooms.

The Weaving Process

The first step in weaving is to stretch the warp, or longitudinal, yarns, which must be very strong. The weft, woof, or filling crosses the warp, binding the warp threads at either side to form the selvage. The three essential steps after the warp is stretched are: shedding, or raising every alternate warp yarn or set of yarns to receive the weft; picking, or inserting the weft; and battening, or pressing home the weft to make the fabric compact. In most primitive weaving these operations were performed by the hands alone, as in making rush mats and baskets. Gradually frames for holding the warp evenly stretched and devices for throwing the weft came into use (see loom).

Types of Woven Fabrics

Woven fabrics are classified as to weave or structure according to the manner in which warp and weft cross each other. The three fundamental weaves, of which others are variations, are the plain, twill, and satin. In plain weave, also known as calico, tabby, taffeta, or homespun weaves, the weft passes over alternate warp threads, requiring two harnesses only. The relatively simple construction suits it to cheap fabrics, heavy yarns, and printed designs. Variations are produced by the use of groups of yarns, as in basket weave and monk's cloth, or by alternating fine and coarse yarns to make ribbed and corded fabrics, as the warp-ribbed Bedford cord, piqué, and dimity and the weft-ribbed poplin, rep, and grosgrain. The second primary weave, twill, shows a diagonal design made by causing weft threads to interlace two to four warp threads, moving a step to right or left on each pick and capable of variations, such as herringbone and corkscrew designs. Noted for their firm, close weave, twill fabrics include gabardine, serge, drill, and denim. Satin weave has floating or overshot warp threads on the surface which reflect light, giving a characteristic luster. When the uncrossed threads are in the weft, the weave is called sateen.

Pile fabrics have an additional set of yarns drawn over wires to form loops, and may be cut or uncut. Warp-pile fabrics include terry and plush; weft-pile, velveteen and corduroy. In double-cloth weave two cloths are woven at once, each with its warp and filling threads, and combined by interlacing some yarns or by adding a fifth set. The cloth may be made for extra warmth or strength, to permit use of a cheaper back, or to produce a different pattern or weave on each surface, e.g., steamer rugs, heavy overcoating, and machine belting. Velvet is commonly woven as a double cloth. In swivel weaving, extra shuttles with a circular motion insert filling yarns to form simple decorations, such as the dots on swiss muslin. Figure

weaves are made by causing warp and weft to intersect in varied groups. Simple geometric designs may be woven on machine looms by using a cam or a dobby attachment to operate the harnesses. For curves and large figures each heddle must be separately governed. The Jacquard loom attachment permits machine weaving of the most complicated designs.

Bibliography

See M. E. Pritchard, A Short Dictionary of Weaving (1956); A. Albers, On Weaving (1965); R. Brown, The Weaving, Spinning, and Dyeing Book (1978).

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QUESTIONAIRE:1. Would you prefer hand woven fabric during summer season?

a. Yes 85%b. No 15%

Yes No

2. Rate the comfort level of hand woven fabric between a. Below 20b. Below 20-80c. Above 80

3. Do you like the fit of the garment?

Sales

20-80 %<20 %>80%

yesno

3. Do you like the style of the garment?

noyes

4. Do you like the trimmings used in the garment?a. Yes 55%

b. No 45%

yesno

5. Do you like the weave design done on the hand woven design?a. Yes 95%b. No 5%

yesno

6. In what stage would like the yarn to be dyed?a. Fiber stageb. Yarn stagec. Fabric stage.

Fiber stageYarn stageFabric stage

7. Which of these three styles compliments hand woven garment?a. Stoleb. Topc. Shrug

StoleTopShrug

8. Is the overall look of the garment appealing to you?

a. Yes 90%b. No 10%

yes no

9. Would you like to see more of these products in hand woven fabrics?a. Yes 95%b. No 5%