india perspectives january 2012

INDIAVOL 25 NO. 10 JANUARY 2012

PERSPECTIVES

NEW YEAR SPECIALLand For All Seasons

PARTNERSHIPSLines of Credit

VERBATIMKiran Mazumdar-Shaw

INSIDE

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INDIA THIS MONTH JANUARY-FEBRUARY

2012

January 25-29India Art FairThe fourth edition willhost about 100 galleriesfrom 30 countries. Onthe sidelines are aspeakers’ forum, a videolounge and art projects.Where: NSIC ExhibitionGrounds, New Delhi

January 26Derby BangaloreThis is the richest eventon Bangalore’s racingcalendar. It attracts thebest three-year-oldhorses each year.Where: Bangalore Turf Club

January 15Mumbai MarathonAttracting over 30,000runners, it is one ofIndia’s biggest fund-raising events. Where: Azad Maidan,Mumbai

January 16-19Dehing Patkai FestivalNamed after the Dehingriver and Patkai range ineastern Assam, it coversfairs, tea heritage tours,golfing, adventure sportsand trips to Stilwell Roadand World War IIcemeteries.Where: Lekhapani,Tinsukia, Assam

January 9-11International KiteFestivalKite-makers andenthusiasts from aroundIndia and the worldparticipate in the festival,which extends to othertowns and villages in Gujarat. Where: Ahmedabad

January 20-22Modhera DanceFestivalDancers showcase theregion’s classical dance forms against the background of the Sun Temple.Where: Sun Temple,Modhera

January 8-9Bikaner Camel FestivalA procession of bedeckedcamels is the mainattraction. The animals race, dance, performacrobatics and take part ina beauty contest. Cultural programmesenliven the evenings. Where: Near JunagarhFort, Bikaner, Rajasthan

January 26Float FestivalDeities of MeenakshiTemple are placed on araft decked with flowersand oil lamps andfloated around thetemple tank. Where: Madurai, Tamil Nadu

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alleys carpeted with blossoms. Surreal saltpans. Dense tropical rainforest.Mighty mountains. Sun-kissed beaches. Miles and miles of desert. Gurglingstreams. Roaring rivers. Unfathomable seas. Add to these a 5,000 year-oldhistory. Rare flora and fauna. A compelling culture. A tradition of hospitality.

And you get India. Given its size, the diversity in the country is unparalleled in the world. In the north,

the sub-continent is shielded by some of world’s highest mountains. The southernshores are washed by three seas — the Arabian Sea, the Indian Ocean and the Bayof Bengal. In the Western Ghats lies one of the world’s biodiversity hotspots. In theeast, the Sunderbans — the largest tidal mangrove forest in the world — has beendeclared a UNESCO World Heritage site. At its heart is the Deccan Plateau, whichcontains rock formations, some over a billion years old. On either side of the mainlandare the archipelagos of Lakshadweep and the Andaman and Nicobar Islands, theunique ecosystems of which harbour a multitude of marine life.

The country is the only one in the world where both the tiger and the lion can befound. It is also home to the one-horned rhino, the Asian elephant, the gaur and theIndian wild dog, the dhole. The world’s rarest monkey, the golden langur lives here.The national bird, the peacock, is one of the 42 species of birds endemic to thecountry. Many species of reptiles, amphibians and flora are also unique.

All the above are why our special New Year issue showcases India as a land forall reasons and all seasons. The country offers experiences for everyone — from theadventure seeker to the lotus-eater, from the culture vulture to the foodie and fromthe historian to the chronicler of the contemporary. January, June, July or December,there is a place in India to see and enjoy. Experience snowfall in Srinagar, sunbathein Goa, catch raindrops in Kerala, pick your way through flowers in Uttarakhand andhum an autumn sonata in Chhattisgarh. These are among the 12 reasons why youshould come to India in 2012. Once here you will find many more to come backagain and again.

In the issue we cover Prime Minister Dr Manmohan Singh’s recent visit to Russia.The PM termed the summit “successful” and added that the talks have helped in‘steadily forging forward’ the India-Russia relationship. Also, our story on India’s Linesof Credit tells you how these soft loans are transforming the economic landscape ofmany countries and changing people’s lives across continents.

In the year ahead, we resolve to bring you issues that are more informative andentertaining. To achieve this we need your feedback. Please keep writing in.

Navdeep Suri

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EDITORIAL NOTE

JANUARY 2012 u INDIA PERSPECTIVES

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Editorial-JAN 2012.qxp:Layout 1 26/12/11 3:18 PM

January 2012 n VOL 25 No. 10/2012

JANUARY 2012

COVER PHOTO: LOTUS, THE NATIONAL FLOWER OF INDIA COVER DESIGN: BIPIN KUMAR

05

INDIAPERSPECTIVES

PLAN THE YEAR AHEADJanuary: Kashmir 08February: Sunderbans 10March: Mathura 12April: Himachal Pradesh 14May: Sikkim 16June: Chhattisgarh 18July: Kerala 20August: Valley of Flowers 22September: Gujarat 24October: Old Delhi 26November: Rajasthan 28December: Goa 30

Global Perspectives: High on Deals 32Partnerships: Catalysts of Change 36Crafts: Timeless Creativity 40Book Extract: Keeping Cool with Clay 42

Reviews:Book: A Banner was Born 44Film: Jewel from the Northeast 45

Verbatim: Kiran Mazumdar-Shaw 46

Editor: Navdeep SuriAssistant Editor: Abhay Kumar

MEDIA TRANSASIA TEAM

Editor-in-Chief: Maneesha Dube

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India Perspectives is published every month in Arabic, Bahasa Indonesia, Bengali,English, French, German, Hindi, Italian,Pashto, Persian, Portuguese, Russian, Sinhala, Spanish, Tamil, Turkish, Urdu andVietnamese. Views expressed in the articles are those of the contributors and not necessarily those of the Ministry of External Affairs.

This edition is published for the Ministry ofExternal Affairs by Navdeep Suri, Joint Secretary, Public Diplomacy Division,New Delhi, 140 ‘A’ Wing, Shastri Bhawan, New Delhi-110001.Telephones: 91-11-23389471, 91-11-23388873, Fax: 91-11-23385549

Website: http://www.indiandiplomacy.in

Text may be reproduced with anacknowledgement to India Perspectives

For a copy of India Perspectives contact the nearest Indian diplomatic mission.

JANUARY 2012 u INDIA PERSPECTIVES

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TWELVE FOR 2012Our special New Year issueshowcases India as a land for allseasons.

COVER STORY

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JANUARY 2012 u INDIA PERSPECTIVES 07INDIA PERSPECTIVES u JANUARY 201206

TWELVE FOR

2012The year ahead holds out new hope andopens up new horizons that wait to beexplored. Our special New Year issue

showcases India as a land for allseasons: Winter, summer, spring,

autumn or monsoon. January, June, Julyor December, there is a place in India to

see and enjoy. Experience snowfall inSrinagar, sunbathe in Goa, let raindrops

fall on your head in Kerala, pick yourway through flowers in spring inUttarakhand and hum a sonata

on an autumn morning in Chhattisgarh.These are among the 12 reasons whyyou should come to India. Once here

you will find many more to come back again and again.

COVER STORY n LAND FOR ALL SEASONS

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JANUARY 2012 u INDIA PERSPECTIVES 09

For picture-postcard snowscapes, few places in the world canrival Gulmarg and Srinagar. These are among the severaltourist spots in India’s northern-most state of Kashmir.

GulmargAn all-weather resort Gulmarg in the Pir Panjal mountains shines inwinter. Labelled by CNN as one of Asia’s top 5 Ski resorts, it attractsskiers with its off-piste, deep-powder, long-run skiing, snowboardingand helisking. Head here for the world’s highest gondola ski lift theGulmarg Gondola, 3,979 meters (about 13,000 feet) to the top ofApharwat mountain which boasts a dozen or so ridges. Perhaps itsgreatest attraction is that there are no man made runs, no treeshave been cut or pistes gouged out of rock – it is all natural. SrinagarBlanketed under a thick layer of snow, Srinagar is the proverbialwinter wonderland. The fabled Dal Lake with its iconic shikaras(boats) has the tendency to freeze over but it is possible to rentcentrally heated houseboats for your stay, a more picturesqueoption than hotels. Wood-fired stoves (called bukharis) and openfireplaces add to the magic of the winter retreat. The locals hunkerdown during the winter months devoting their time to handicrafts:carpets, carved furniture, shawls and the like so there’s plenty tolook for. This is also the time to check out the local cuisine. n

(Above) Gulmarg in January;(right) tourists enjoy a shikara

ride on the Dal Lake

T E X T : R A A J A B H A S I N


January brings snow to Kashmir andtourists to the ski slopes of Gulmarg

January

NAVIGATORBy Air: Srinagar links to Delhi and JammuBy Rail: Jammu is the nearest railheadBy Road: Srinagar and other parts of J&K areconnected to all parts of the country.

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Sighting the tiger in the Sunderbans is a thrilling experience.The excitement builds up in Kolkata from where the journeybegins. The Sunderbans, situated along the southern tip of

West Bengal, is 4,262 sq km of watery wilderness, of which 2,585sq km are part of the tiger reserve. The area is a UNESCO worldheritage site, being a unique example of an estuarine mangroveecosystem. When our boat reaches Sonakhali, we climb on to theupper deck and watch the island villages of Gosaba and Jhilla sailpast. After a few hours, we reach Dayapur island village, the basefor our forays into the forest.

The Royal Bengal Tiger is lord of the jungle. The 2011 tiger censusputs the number of tigers in the region at 270. It is the only tiger thatlives in a mangrove forest. There are several watch towers inside theforest which offer a panoramic view of the surrounding forest.Waterholes have been dug in the areas to attract wild animals. It ispossible to see spotted deer, monkeys, fishing cats, wild boars andcrocodiles. There is also a turtle hatchery that takes care of theendangered Olive Ridley turtles.

One particularly interesting fish that is found here is themudskipper, a gobioid that climbs out of the water into mudflatsand even climbs trees. The mudflats and creeks harbour a lot ofbirds, among them are such rarities as the Masked Finfoot,Mangrove Pitta and the Mangrove Whistler. n

T E X T : U T T A R A G A N G O P A D H Y A Y


(Above) Royal Bengal tigers;(left) a major source of earningin the Sunderbans is fishing


February is time to sight thetiger in the Sunderbans

NAVIGATORKolkata is the nearest airport and railhead.

There are several entry points to theSunderbans, of which Canning and Sonakhali

are the most accessible. From these points aboat is used to enter the forest zone.


February



With the onset of spring Mathura and Vrindavan comealive. Here, Holi festivities begin much before the entirenation gets drenched in a riot of colours. On Holi, people

douse each other with coloured water and throw coloured powderon friends, family and even unwary passersby.MathuraAccording to mythology, this temple town is the birthplace of LordKrishna. During Janmashtami, his birthday, devotees from all overthe country gather here for the celebrations. The birthday festivitiestraditionally stretch over two days. The river Yamuna runs throughMathura, picturesque ghats (broad flights of steps leading down tothe banks of a river) lace the city. Of the innumerable ghats,Vishram Ghat is the most famous. Sitting almost on the Yamuna isthe Dwarikadheesh temple. Built in 1814, it is dedicated to Krishna,who became the lord of Dwarka after leaving Mathura. VrindavanBarely 14 km from Mathura, Vrindavan has over 5,000 temples. Itis where Krishna spent his youth and played out many tales ofdivinity. Even the houses in this town look like temples. The 5,000-year-old Nidhi Van, with lots and lots of wild tulsi trees, is a greattourist atraction. Not too far from the van is the 300-year-old BankeBihari temple. There’s also the Shri Krishna-Balram temple, oftendescribed as one of the most beautiful temples in the town. n

(Above) Holi festivities inMathura; (right) pilgrims take a

holy dip at Vishram Ghat

T E X T : P R E E T I V E R M A L A L


March is drenched in the hues ofHoli, the festival of colours

NAVIGATORBy Air: The nearest airport is New Delhi (140 km). By Rail: Mathura is on the New Delhi-Agra railway line. By Road: A cab or bus takes four hours from Delhi.


March

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Mountains in April are magical. The snow has not melted,yet the air no longer has that bite about it. The place tobest experience nature at this time of the year is

Himachal Pradesh. You could walk through pine forests, stay inquaint villages or get a taste of mysticism in Lahaul and Spiti, whichmelt into the barren expanses of Ladakh.

Most routes have trekker’s huts and bungalows run by variousgovernment departments. We start with a trek from Manali toRohtang Pass. It’s an easy walk that can be completed in two days.Manali, in the Beas River Valley, is famous for the Hadimba templeand the hot springs in Vashisth.

There’s snow coming your way if you choose Chandratal. Thisis a slightly more arduous trek. The route to Rothang remains thesame, but instead of thumbing down a vehicle and heading to thewarmth of a hotel in Manali, you pack your tent and head outfurther, to Gramphoo and then to Chhatru, from where the real funbegins. You will encounter ice bridges, frozen waterfalls and glacierstumbling down all the way to your feet.

Chota Dhara is the next stop, and the way to it is over bouldersand rocks. After camping at Baltal, which is around 15,000 ft,Chandratal is only a day away. You hit Chandratal on day six.Rohtang, where you will finally come across vehicles that will agreeto take you to Manali, is four days away. n

T E X T : S A N K A R


(Above) Bharmour townin Chamba; (left) trekkersin Manali


April is great for treks in the magicalmountains of Himachal Pradesh

NAVIGATORHimachal Pradesh offers routes in the

Dhauladhar and Pir Pranjal ranges, betweenthe Shimla region and the Kullu Valley. The

state has very good road connection tomajor cities of north.


April

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Sikkim has something for everyone: spectacular landscapes,romantic getaways, Buddhist art and medieval architecture.You can drive around, trek, climb mountains and feast on

local cuisines along the way.YumthangThe alpine meadows of Yumthang come alive in May. This is hometo the Singba Rhododendrons Sanctuary, which has an abundanceof exotic rhododendrons and poppies. The valley offers aspectacular view of the towering snow-capped Kanchenjunga. Avisit to the valley is not complete without a stopover at the naturalhot water springs, which are said to have curative powers. Tibetanprayer flags flutter with life all across the valley. PellingPelling, in western Sikkim, has one of the richest traditions in Sikkim.The legendary Pemayangtse monastery, believed to be the oldestin Sikkim, was built in 1705 by Lhatsun Chempo. Dantem, 20 kmaway, is famous for the alpine cheese factory and the SingshoreBridge, which is the second longest suspension bridge in Asia. Thefamous Rabdentse ruins are a must see. The monastic complexhas been well-preserved by the Archaeological Survey of India.Another place to visit is the Khachoedpalri lake, which is encircledby a thick forest. If you are lucky, during a short trek around thelake, you can spot a red panda basking on a tree. n

(Above) The picturesqueYumthang valley; (right)

Khachoedpalri lake in Pelling

TEXT: RADHIKA VERMA & KUMAR MANGWANI


May is when rhododendrons and poppies colour the landscape of Sikkim

NAVIGATORBy Air: The nearest airport is Bagdogra. By Rail: The New Jalpaiguri station isconnected with major Indian cities.By Road: There are plenty of private taxisand jeeps to ferry you.


May

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Chhattisgarh is vast and the places to see are aplenty. Therainy season is a good time to explore the beauty of thestate. We begin our sojourn by travelling to Sarguja, covering

Bango Dam, Kendai Waterfalls en route and then proceeding toMainpat and Tattapani.

Within a few hundred yards of starting our drive, we realise thatthe region has it all — stunning scenery, rare wildlife, a cleanenvironment, low population density, good motorable roads, hills,plateaus, jungle, wildlife, waterfalls, ancient sites and temples,palaces and diverse village and tribal communities. Our first stop isBango Dam, about 40 km from Korba. Surrounded by hills, theenvirons are swathed in innumerable shades of green and blue.Mainpat, our next stop, is at a height of around 1,160 m. Thevarious Tibetan camps are the main attraction here.

Then we proceed to Tattapani, the hot springs, in thenorthernmost part of Sarguja district. We take a detour to Darimavillage to see the Thinthini Patthar. A large rock, shaped like acylinder, when struck gives out a metallic sound. Tattapani is 80 kmfrom Ambikapur, the starting point of our journey to the springs.The water in the sulphur springs here is hot enough for one to cooka bagful of rice in it. We walk around this hamlet and see that thereis hot water welling up almost everywhere. It is believed that thewater here has curative powers. n

T E X T : C H I T R A R A M A S W A M Y


(Above) Indravati river near Chitrakote waterfalls; (left)women sell bamboo basketsat a market in Bastar


June sets the tone to explore thebeauty of Chhattisgarh

NAVIGATORRaipur is well connected by rail and air to most Indian

cities. Semi-luxury buses ply between Raipur andJagdalpur. However, the best way to explore

Chhattisgarh is to go in your own vehicle, stoppingwherever you spot interesting sights.


June



During my travels through Kerala, the constant feature in alltourist destinations is the ‘Ayurveda experience’. Ayurvedais a combination of two Sanskrit words ayur or life and

veda or science. It is a system of alternative medicine practised inIndia. There is an Ayurvedic centre to suit every budget. Themonsoon is the best time to enjoy an ayurvedic massage.

I visit Kovalam, which is typical of the state’s ayurvedicdestinations. The Ayurvedic centre has rows of Kerala-style red-brickcottages with views of the Arabian Sea. The therapies employ herb-based medicines. Milk and ghee (clarified butter) are othercommonly used ingredients in ayurveda.

I walk into one of the open-air treatment rooms with apanoramic view of the ocean. Suresh, my therapist, heats a bowlof herbal oil on a stove and pours it all over my body as I lay facedown on a wooden table. I can see grey monsoon clouds clingingto the Arabian Sea at a distance and palm trees swaying near thebeach. The open-air treatment rooms are the ideal venue duringthe rainy season. As a cool, moisture-laden breeze sweeps throughthe window, Suresh goes about his job with casual precision. Themassage lasts for an hour and a half and I doze off during it.

Kerala is the first place to receive the monsoon rains on theIndian mainland. It was still raining when I was escorted to my car.Kovalam, like other parts of Kerala, looks beautiful in the rain. n

(Above) Fort Kochibeach; (right) a spa

in Kumarakom

T E X T : S A M Y U K T A N I N A N


July is best for ayurveda treatments,when the monsoon clouds visit Kerala

NAVIGATORThiruvananthapuram is the nearestairport and railhead. By road, you cantake a bus or hire a cab for Kovalam,which is 16 km fromThiruvananthapuram.


July


The Valley of Flowers is a marvel of nature. Once the snowmelts in the valley, from May onwards, various plant speciesstart flowering. This flowering continues till September. The

Valley covers an area of 87.5 sq km over an altitude varying from3,200 to 6,600 m with its main area of about 10 sq km running inthe east-west direction along the river Pushpawati.

The trek to the Valley starts from Govindghat. The 13-km trekto Ghangaria moves along the river Bhyndar. The trek till Bhyndar,10 km away, is rather comfortable. From Bhyndar it is a steepclimb to Ghangaria. The landscape near the Bhyndar village ispainted with mountains, waterfalls and forests. Pink and whiteroses greet us on this stretch.

As we approach Ghangaria, we see beds of flowering asters andsencios. After a trek of about five hours we are there. The next day,we begin our onward trek by crossing the bridge on riverPushpawati, near Pairra. The route is covered by red and yellowpotentillas, purple and white asters and yellow lagularias. We hit aplace in the central valley called, Baumin Dhaur. New vistas open upat this point, with the Rataban Peak clearly visible. Baumin Dhaur iscarpeted in pink by impatiens sulcata, popularly called balsam.

The Valley doesn’t have any physical limits, so you can keepgoing and exit via the distant glaciers. But it is advisable to returnaround 2 pm, given the weather at such high altitudes. n

T E X T : D E E P A N K A R A R O N


The Valley of Flowersin full bloom


August carpets the Valley of Flowerswith a multitude of blossoms

NAVIGATORNearest airport is Jolly Grant, 24 km from Dehradun.Both Dehradun and Haridwar are well connected by

rail. Rishikesh is an hour’s drive from both thesestations. The trek to the Valley of Flowers starts from

Govindghat, 260 km from Rishikesh.


August



Gujarat is a rewarding destination for travellers interested inarchitecture and archaeology. Positioned on the west coastof India, the state had international trade links dating back

to 2,400 BC to 1,600 BC.Patan and ModheraThe old-walled town of Anhilawada Patan is the capital of the SolankiRajputs. Driving along the fort walls, you will come across Rani ki Vav,one of Gujarat’s greatest stepwells. Built in the 11th century, the wellhas a seven-storey stairway running from the top to the water levelwith covered platforms. Modhera is famous for the Sun Temple. Thesanctum of the temple was designed in such a way that the jewelledidol would receive the rays of the sun. The exterior walls of thetemple have splendid carvings of deities and mythical beings. Lothal-PalitanaLothal is one of the best Harappan sites in India. The museum atLothal is rather nondescript, but the exhibits provide a keen insightinto the life of the Harappans. Palitana was once the capital of aprincely state. It has many impressive late-19th and early-20thcentury buildings, but is predominantly a modern market town. ChampanerChampaner has been declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCObecause of a variety of monuments located in the area, from the11th to 15th century temples on Pavagadh hill to the 16th centurymosques at its foot. n

(Above) Somnath Temple, Saurashtra;

(right) ruins of an ancientmosque, Champaner

T E X T : A N I L M U L C H A N D A N I

NAVIGATORBy Air: There are 10 domestic airports in Gujarat andan international airport in Ahmedabad. By Rail: There are regular trains from all major cities.By Road: There are inter-state buses, which connectvarious cities of Gujarat with other states.


September in Gujarat is ideal for the archaeological trail


September

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Shahjahanabad, the capital of Mughal emperor Shahjahan, isknown as Purani or Old Delhi. At its eastern end lies the LalQila or Red Fort. Close to the Red Fort is Chandni Chowk

with its bazaars and labyrinth of tiny lanes lined with the remnantsof 17th century havelis. The city walls have crumbled and only fiveof the fourteen old gates still stand, yet this stretch of road throbswith activity 24x7. Shopping here is a real delight, it is the mecca ofthe bargain hunter. It is also a foodie’s paradise, with eateries, somedating back hundreds of years, at every nook and corner. Jama MasjidJama Masjid is the largest mosque in India and stands across theroad from Red Fort. On any given day, the maze of narrow lanesaround Jama Masjid heave with crowds. During Ramzan, hundredsof stalls and shops pop up overnight. Along with the gastronomicdelights on offer, it is quite an experience to snake ones waythrough the festive crowds and gaily-lit lanes chock-a-block withfood, clothes and mementos. Red FortThe Lal Qila or Red Fort, Delhi’s most magnificent monument, wasbuilt by the Mughal Emperor Shahjahan in 1638 CE. Every year onIndia’s Independence Day, August 15, the prime minister addressesthe nation from the ramparts. A light and sound in the eveningsbrings into focus Mughal history. n

T E X T : R A C H A N A R A N A B H A T T A C H A R Y A


(Above) An aerial view ofOld Delhi from JamaMasjid; (left) a paranthashop in Chandni Chowk


October is perfect for exploring the bazaars and lanes of Old Delhi

NAVIGATORBy Air: The Indira Gandhi International Airport is 35

minutes drive from the city centre. By Rail: Has three major railway stations at New Delhi,

Old Delhi, and Nizamuddin. By Road: It is well connected to all the major Indian cities.


October



Visiting Rajasthan is like stepping into history’s treasure trove.The capital, Jaipur, is the best place to begin a journey toone of the most colourful states of the country.

Amber Fort, JaipurEntry to the fort is through massive arched gates. The Diwan-e-Aam, or hall of public audience, is magnificent and a must-see. TheSheesh Mahal or hall of mirrors is another attraction. Mehrangarh Fort, JodhpurMehrangarh Fort, atop a 400-ft cliff, has carved balconies, a gildedcourtroom, ornate and bejewelled palace rooms, barracks and anarmoury. The museum houses ornate shields, writing sets crustedwith precious stones, dumb bells used by the queens to remainsvelte and shoes smothered in diamonds. City Palace Complex, UdaipurThe City Palace Museum is imposing. Built in1559 on the banks ofLake Pichola, the palace complex has four palaces, each with itsown distinctive style. Udaipur also has the 18th-century LakePalace, now a popular hotel and Jag Mandir, which inspiredShahjahan to build the Taj Mahal. Other fortsKumbhalgarh, surrounded by a massive 36-km-long rampart, and Nawalgarh, Mandawa, Dundlod and Fathepur in Shekhawati areworth a visit. n

(Above) Mehrangarh Fort, Jodhpur; (right) Hawa

Mahal, Jaipur

T E X T : G U S T A S P & J E R O O I R A N I

NAVIGATORJaipur: The city is well connected by road,rail and air to the rest of the country.Udaipur: The airport is 24 km from the citycentre. Jodhpur: The city is well connectedby rail, road and air.


November brings out the grandeurof Rajasthan’s forts and palaces


November


If there is one place in India where you have to be on Christmas,it has to be Goa. The festivities begin weeks in advance and theentire state is abuzz with activity. This is also the time to explore

the rich Portuguese heritage of the area.Old Goa is a medieval city with impressive architecture and a

booming trading community. The Basilica de Bom Jesus, built in1594, is Goa’s most important religious monument. I walked pastthe richly carved basalt façade of the basilica to the spot thathouses the relics of St Francis Xavier. Frequented by Christians and Hindus in equal numbers, the basilica offers a quiet spiritual experience.

The dilapidated tower of St Augustine church is still Old Goa’stallest landmark and can be seen from most places in town. Thischurch was among Goa’s largest and was built in 1602.

My next heritage pit stop was the central Goan town of Verna.Most of the old houses here belong to the well-to-do ‘Brahmin’Christian families, many of whom still speak Portuguese and areequally proud of their mixed Portuguese and Brahmin heritage. Justsouth of Verna is the large market town of Margao that has its ownshare of heritage buildings. But of all the heritage sites in Goa, myfavourite is still the Fontainhas quarter in Panjim. Fontainhas is fullof narrow lanes and multicoloured houses. The old houses facingthe Ourem Creek now house Panjim’s antique stores. n

T E X T : A N S H U M A N S E N


(Above) Tourists at abeach in Goa; (left)Basilica de Bom Jesus


December rings in Christmas and all roads lead to Goa

NAVIGATORBy Air: The Dabolim Airport is 30 km from Panaji.

By Road: National Highway 17 connects Goa with theneighbouring states.

By Rail: The Konkan Railway connects Goa with Delhi,Mumbai, Thiruvananthapuram and Vadodara.


December


GLOBAL PERSPECTIVES

The robust ‘special and privileged strategic partnership’between India and Russia got a boost at the recentlyconcluded 12th Annual Summit Meeting in Moscow. Duringthe three-day meet from December 15 to 17, 2010, Prime

Minister Manmohan Singh met Russian President Dmitry Medvedev.The Indian PM termed the talks, ‘successful’ and said that they willhelp in ‘steadily forging forward’ their partnership.

A bilateral meeting with his Russian counterpart Vladimir Putin notonly strengthened the already strong cooperation in the field ofdefence, space and nuclear energy, but also laid the road map forexpanding the economic relations in trade and investments.

The trip to Russia achieved a lot in terms of takeaways for boththe nations. The joint statement adopted by the two leaders at theirbilateral meeting is a comprehensive 16-page document thatenumerates the partnerships and thoughts on a majority of issues.

The five agreements signed by both the nations might be low interms of quantity, but were good in terms of quality when comparedto the 29 deals signed during the 11th summit when Medvedev wasin New Delhi in 2010.

The key deal was for licenced production of 42 Russian-designedSukhoi combat planes for the Indian Air Force at the HindustanAeronautics Limited production facility in Bengaluru. These are inaddition to the 232 planes that the Indian public sector undertakinghad been licenced to build.

Deals for enhancing cooperation between the anti-monopolyagencies of the two countries were also signed. The Memorandum ofUnderstanding (MoU) covers experience sharing in the field ofcompetition policy and in conducting investigations; evolving jointconsultative processes; and exchanges of information regarding lawsand legislations.

Another protocol that has been signed aims to facilitatedevelopment and application of technologies for utilisation and safemanagement of fly ash, an environment pollutant residue from thethermal power plants in the Siberian Federal District. It includes import


Prime Minister Manmohan Singh with

Russian PresidentDmitry Medvedev at

the 12th Annual India-Russia Summit

in Moscow

33JANUARY 2012 u INDIA PERSPECTIVES

The Annual India-Russia summit enhanced the alreadyhealthy friendship that the two nations enjoyTEXT: N.C. BIPINDRA

High on Deals

AFP

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of technologies from India and also envisages experience sharing,investment projects and mutual exchange of scientific personnel.

Among the MoUs that were signed, is one to oversee the safetyand quality issues between the two agencies for drug quality andsafety standards from both countries to provide an enablingenvironment for enhancing trade in quality pharmaceuticals.

The fifth agreement was an educational exchange programme topromote cooperation for capacity building. Medvedev also announcedthat Russia will offer India the joint production of its civilian aircraftfrom its civil planes industry, including Sukhoi and Irkut.

Singh and Medvedev said that the future of their strategicpartnership will be in the field of economics. The two sides declaredtheir intent to increase their bilateral trade volume to USD 20 billionin the next four years from the existing USD 9 billion.

India welcomed Russia’s membership in the World TradeOrganisation and said it would be a ‘considerable positive enabler’ fortrade and investments.

The two nations agreed to set up a joint study group that will gointo the possibilities of a trade link between India and the three-nationBelarus-Kazakhstan-Russia Custom Union.

Russia once again reiterated its support to India’s permanentmembership in a reformed United Nations Security Council, to join thehigh table with the super five — the US, Russia, UK, France and China.Medvedev promised support to India’s membership bids into the 45-nation Nuclear Suppliers Group and the six-nation ShanghaiCooperation Organisation.

There were discussions on joint defence projects such as the45,000-tonne Kiev class aircraft carrier from the Russian Navy, whichis under a refit in the Sevmash shipyard in Russia and is expected tojoin the Indian Navy by December 2012. INS Vikramaditya, the jointdevelopment of fifth generation fighter aircraft and the multiroletransport aircraft are all ‘on schedule’.

The Indian PM’s visit enhanced the deep understanding betweenthe two nations and acted as a positive end to the diplomatically activeyear that India has had. n

35JANUARY 2012 u INDIA PERSPECTIVESINDIA PERSPECTIVES u JANUARY 201234

(Clockwise from above) Commander-in-Chief of RussianNavy Admiral Vladimir Vysotsky with Indian Chief of

Naval Staff Admiral Nirmal Verma (right) in New Delhi;Russian aircraft carrier Admiral Gorshkov; a model of the

Sukhoi 30-MKI on display at the Yelahanka Air Force Station, Bengaluru; and External Affairs Minister

S.M. Krishna (left) and his Russian counterpart SergeyLavrov in Moscow

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PARTNERSHIPS

oosting rice irrigation in Senegal, financing water pumps for Jamaica,construction of power transmission lines in Cambodia and buildingrailway infrastructure in Bangladesh, India’s soft loans have beentransforming the economic landscape of many countries and changing

people’s lives across continents. Lines of Credit (LOC), as these soft loans arecalled, carry concessional interest rates with repayment period stretching up to20 years and a moratorium of five years. They are serving as catalysts of economicuplift and change in recipient countries.

New Delhi opens its purse every month to fund varied development projectsthrough concessional finance in developing countries in Asia, Africa and LatinAmerica. The last two years have seen an increase in the number and quantumof LOCs. In 2010, India’s economic diplomacy acquired a new ballast as PrimeMinister Manmohan Singh announced a USD 1 billion for railway and connectivityprojects in Bangladesh. The same year, New Delhi pitched in to assist Sri Lankathat is in the throes of reconstruction after the war ended with the LTTE. The Indiangovernment pledged USD 800 million as an LOC for track laying and supply ofrolling stock for the northern railway line during Sri Lanka President MahindaRajapaksa’s visit last year. Included in this is, USD 150 million for the restorationof the Pallai-Kankesanthurai railway line in the Northern Province that will connect,for the first time in decades, the former war-torn north of Sri Lanka with thecountry’s south. An LOC of USD 167.4 million for repair and upgradation of thetsunami-damaged Colombo-Matara rail link is operational.

Last year has set new benchmarks. In May at the second India-Africa ForumSummit, India unveiled USD 5 billion in LOCs for development projects acrossAfrica and another USD 700 million to set up training institutes across thecontinent. This was in addition to USD 2.4 billion disbursed after theannouncement of USD 5.4 billion at the first India-Africa Forum summit in NewDelhi in 2008, leaving USD 5 billion for the next three years till 2014. This October,


AFP

37JANUARY 2012 u INDIA PERSPECTIVES

The Lines of Credit have acted as multi-prongedinstruments of India’s economic diplomacy

TEXT: MANISH CHAND

Catalysts of

Change

AFP

Senegal has transformedfrom a food-deficit country

to a potential food-exporter; (below left

to right) Minister of ExternalAffairs S.M. Krishna

addressing the conferenceon Indian Lines of Credit

in New Delhi; delegates atthe conference

B

Lines of Credit.qxp:Layout 1 27/12/11 3:16 PM Page 2

India unveiled USD 500 million for Myanmar which is navigating its transition todemocracy and a more inclusive development. The soft loan will be used forprojects, including irrigation and agriculture. This was in addition to the USD 250million India had provided earlier for various infrastructure projects such asrailways, roadways and transport, power transmission lines and an oil refinery.

‘‘As on June 30, there were 121 operational LOCs to 54 countries in Africa, Asiaand Latin America, CIS and ASEAN. These are effectively worth USD 6.43 billion,”External Affairs Minister S.M. Krishna told trade officials. ‘‘These LOCs have alsohelped in showcasing Indian technology and opening up new markets overseas,’’he said. The LOCs have financed projects in agriculture, urban transport, powertransmission, development of small scale industries, IT and education.

Besides LOCs to individual countries, India has provided soft loans to overseasfinancial institutions, regional development banks. In 2004, India provided USD500 million to TEAM-9 (Techno-Economic Approach for Africa-India Movement),an initiative that brought together India and eight resource-rich West and CentralAfrican countries situated in the oil-rich Gulf of Guinea. To boost its presence inthe region, India provided USD 250 million LOC to the Economic Community OfWest African States (ECOWAS) Bank for Investment and Development in 2006and another USD 250 million LOC in 2010.

Some important TEAM 9 projects aided by LoCs include agricultural projectsand rural electrification in Burkina Faso; Mahatma Gandhi IT and BiotechnologyPark and a project for renewal of urban transport system in Abidjan in CoteD’Ivoire; setting up of a cotton yarn plant in Chad; a tractor assembly plant inGambia; and the construction of the presidential palace in Ghana.

The EXIM (Export-Import) Bank, which disburses LOCs, is at the heart of thisunique Indian model of developmental cooperation. In Cambodia, several projectsin areas of electric transmission lines (USD 30 million), irrigation (USD 30 million)and installation of water pumps (USD 5.2 million) are being implemented withthe aid of LOCs. Last year, India signed an USD 72.55 million LOC agreementwith Laos for hydropower projects. In 2006, India extended an LOC worth USD7.5 million to Jamaica for financing import of water pumps from India.

All projects are demand-driven and as per the priorities of the recipientcountries. Approvals for projects are given by the finance ministry afterconsultations with the MEA. ‘‘As we take our cooperation forward, it is ofparamount importance that we follow transparent and fair selection proceduresbased on competitive bidding for award of contracts and their execution,’’ saidKrishna. If implemented in letter and spirit, it would ensure an efficient andproductive use of LOCs, and help India win friends and diplomatic capital aroundthe world, sealing its reputation as an emerging power with a difference. n

—Manish Chand is a senior editor at IANS

39JANUARY 2012 u INDIA PERSPECTIVESINDIA PERSPECTIVES u JANUARY 201238

The EXIM Bank, which disburses LOCs, isat the heart of this unique Indian model of developmental cooperation that blendsconcessional finance with expertise

India’s soft loans have helped buildrailway infrastructure in Bangladesh

and Sri Lanka (below right); and(left) provided LOCs for countries inAfrica which see India’s expertise

and IT prowess in a new light

AFP

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The simplicity of the articles made with clay,wood and metal is striking

CRAFTS

Timeless Creativity

The tribal communities of Chhattisgarh have alwayshad a symbiotic relationship with nature – not onlydo they find their gods in nature, they also find theirlivelihood amidst nature’s bounty. Living in an

inaccessible land, the tribals learnt to create everyday-useartefacts with local materials. Shilpgram, 15 km fromJagdalpur, is a government initiative to preserve and promotethe arts and crafts of the region. Saathi, set up to revive thedying crafts of Bastar, now works with 1,400 artisans in 114villages. The best place to shop for handicrafts is Shabari, agovernment-run emporium located in major towns ofChhattisgarh and in New Delhi.

Artefacts bearing a striking resemblance to dhokra(non–ferrous metal) were found in the Mohenjodaro andHarappan civilisations. Originally, bell metal was used to castutensils, but now the traditional sacred kalash (pot) has madeway for numerous motifs, designs and figures. Tribals use theancient technique of cire perdue (lost-wax technique) tomake the objets d’art. This entails coiling a thin thread of waxaround a core of clay till the desired shape is attained. It isthen padded with clay from a termite hill and thrown into fire.A small vent allows the wax to melt away. Into the same ventis poured molten metal, on cooling the mould is broken toreveal the finished product.

The soil of the Indravati river lends its sheen to the famousterracotta handicrafts of the state. With simple tools like thepotter’s wheel and a wooden spatula, potters create pots,pitchers and handis (cooking vessel) for everyday use, whichhave a dark sienna tone which comes from the layer of deepriver soil applied on the baked pot, and elephants, serpents,birds and horses. They also make images of Dulhadeo, themain tribal deity of the state, and Mai, the Goddess.

With 40 per cent of the state under forest cover, it is nosurprise that Chhattisgarh has a rich tradition of wood carving.Tobacco containers, combs, musical instruments, menhirs andthe colossal Bastar Dussehera rath (chariot) are someexamples of the craft. The men and women of the Muria tribeuse carved wooden combs as hair adornments; the men sportcombs carved with horses, spears and warriors. For women,the combs are not mere trinkets; they also reveal how manysuitors they have. In a ghotul (a tribal hut), men carve intricatedesigns on combs and gift it to the girl of their choice.

Iron craft is the exclusive preserve of the Bastar district. Thebasic raw material is recycled scrap iron. Interestingly, artefactsare created by beating hot iron into the desired shape. Varnishis used as a veneer. Of late, craftsmen have taken to paintingor etching on tumbas, a hollowed out dry gourd.

—Preeti Verma Lal is a freelance journalist

TEXT: PREETI VERMA LAL


Artefacts madeby the tribals ofChhattisgarh

Crafts-Chhattisgarh.qxp:Layout 1 26/12/11 4:44 PM Page 2

BOOK EXTRACT


Mansukhbhai Prajapati, a school dropout, is a grass-roots innovator, who had pursued his dream project without a business plan. His prime product

is a refrigerator made of clay, sold under the name of Mitticool (mud cool).

The clay fridge made by Mansukhbhai, who is fromNichimandal village in Rajkot, Gujarat, costs about ` 2,000. Itworks without electricity and can preserve fruits and vegetablesfor about five days and milk up to three days. The cooling isdone through evaporation. The clay is baked at hightemperatures and hence the fridge does not need any specialcare. Mansukhbhai continues to make further improvements,though these make it a little expensive. With the help ofNational Innovation Foundation and the National Institute ofDesign, he has come up with a model with two tiny fans thatrun on solar power. Over 1,000 refrigerators have been sold.Mansukhbhai says he gets more orders from the urban areasthan from villages. His creation was primarily meant for peopleliving in villages with zero or limited access to electricity.

This innovator has no marketing back up, but his customersfind him through newspapers, magazines and websites thatfeature him regularly. His products have reached London,Africa, Singapore and America. His organisation, Mitticool ClayCreation, has sold nearly 1,00,000 products till date, fetchingrevenues of around `3 million. After the January 2001earthquake in Gujarat, a photo feature showing a shattered potwith the caption: “The broken fridge of the poor” published ina newspaper, ignited Mansukhbhai’s idea of making anaffordable rural refrigerator. He worked on a prototype for threeyears. While he was clear about using evaporation for cooling,it took some time and effort to perfect the model. The finalproduct was accepted by the customers who have not comeback to him with any complaints. Mansukhbhai also has awater filter, a pressure cooker and a non-stick tawa — all madeof clay — to his credit.

Mansukhbhai is not resting on his laurels. His dream is tomake ‘Mittihouse’, (mud house) that provides protection fromextreme temperatures and needs no electricity. n

Extracted from:THE INDIA IDEA Edited by: L.K. SharmaPhoto Research and Edited by: Shobit Arya Publisher: Wisdom Tree Price: ` 2,450Pages: 159

INDIA idea

the

Heralding the Era of Path-breaking Innovations

Mansukhbhai Prajapati’s clay refrigerator can preserve fruits andvegetables for about five days and milk up to three days

Keeping cool

withclay

(Facing page) A potterat the workshop;(above) Mansukbhai’sclay pressure cookerand refrigerator (below)

Book Extract.qxp:Layout 1 27/12/11 9:40 AM Page 2

What was intended to be an insight into abanner in post-Independence Hindi cinemahas turned out to be an adulatory exercise.

There is no denying the banner’s contribution and whatgave it its class identity, the hero projecting the pains,pangs and frustrations of urban youth.

But, unfortunately, that had been so until Dev Anand,its founding-star, became a prisoner of his own image.The author’s job becomes all the more complicated sincehe tries to examine growth and evolution of a cinemathat became synonymous with the star himself. This was an aspect of Dev Anand that was contrary to hispublic persona.

Siddharth Bhatia in his book The Navketan Story:Cinema Modern shows this facet of Anand by firing agun from others shoulders, Amit Khanna, for instance,who at one time was as close to Anand: ‘‘Dev Anand’s

determination to do everything himself, includingscripting and direction hampers him.’’ Unfortunately,Siddharth’s research was impeded since most of thestar’s other close associates are no longer alive. But he ison target by giving due credit to others who not onlycontributed to Navketan films’ distinct identity, but helpedthe star to carve out a different image for himself. So thebook is ‘‘a salute to those who gave us hours of greatentertainment but with a vision and a modern outlook. Itis a tribute to an unusual group of people who dared tobe different, going down the paths which film makerseven today may be too timid to follow.’’

Beautifully printed and profusely illustrated with rarecolour and black and white pictures the book nowbecomes a fitting tribute to Dev Anand. Unfortunately, hedid not live to see it.

—Suresh Kohli

REVIEWS


A look at Neil’s unstructured but happy little home school

Jewel from the NortheastFILM

It is a story about Neil Nongkynrih, a pianist fromShillong, who went to London to study music, fell illand returned to India. His passion for music led him

to start the Shillong Chamber Choir. ‘‘Stressed out,’’ ashe says, after staying abroad for 13 years, he ended upin his hometown, giving underprivileged children a voice– literally. Director Urmi Juvekar’s documentary shows usNeil’s little unstructured but happy little home school. Therelaxed and comfortable atmosphere he creates (‘‘just aplay square where children can blossom’’) is heaven forthe children who gradually join as boarders. Set againstthe backdrop of the green and sylvan state, Meghalaya,Juvekar’s film is an ode to this talented yet modest manand his work. Through images of children at play or work (mainly singing), eating, and dancing to Hindi filmsongs, through chats with Neil, she creates a life ofhappiness and harmony.

Her images are sharp and well-framed, her lightingsubtle; and she uses a blend of background and sungmusic which is not necessarily religious as the word ‘choir’may suggest. There are hymns, including Khasi psalms,but also opera, pieces from Mozart and Handel. ‘‘The Khasivoice,’’ says Neil, ‘‘has angst, a certain sorrow and anemotional appeal. Most of our folktales are tragic.’’ Whentrained professionally, these voices come out beautifullymodulated and perfectly pitched. Neil’s 16-member choirfirst performed in Shillong, and later in London, Poland, SriLanka, Milan, Switzerland, Bangalore, Mumbai andGuwahati. Yet the pianist is averse to marketing. ‘‘I’ve had12,000 people at a show but I never enjoyed it.’’ For him,money is not an issue. Juvekar shows us how one man’svision and generosity have set a few tender hearts aflame.

Youtube link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9d3-0UDOeGE

—Latika Padgaonkar

SHILLONGCHAMBER CHOIRAND THE LITTLEHOME SCHOOLGenre: DocumentaryDirector: Urmi JuvekarProducer: PublicDiplomacy Division,Ministry of External Affairs

A tribute to a group of people who dared to be differentA Banner was BornBOOK

THE NAVKETAN STORY:CINEMA MODERNby Siddharth BhatiaPublished by: HarperCollins IndiaPages: 180Price: `1,999

Reviews.qxp:Layout 1 27/12/11 9:50 AM Page 2

46 INDIA PERSPECTIVES u JANUARY 2012

VERBATIM

She is one of the rare women in her field. Herpioneering work has earned her some of thehighest civilian honours conferred by theGovernment of India: the Padma Shri and

Padma Bhushan. Recently named TIME magazine’s 100most influential people in the world, Kiran Mazumdar-Shaw, chairman and managing director of Biocon Limited,shares her thoughts with Bindu Gopal Rao. Excerpts.

Tell us about Biocon’s journey, from a garage to theconglomerate it is today.It’s been a challenging, but fulfilling journey and I look backwith great pride and satisfaction. When I started Biocon, Idared to be different. Biotechnology then was an unheard-of industry but I was fascinated by it. Being a womanentrepreneur in the late 1970s was another hurdle that Ihad to overcome. In 1998, I decided to leverage theenzyme technology platform to develop biopharmaceuticalslike statin, insulin and immunosuppressants. This was agame-changing decision that made Biocon what it is today.

What attracted you to biotechnology?As a brewer, I was enthralled by biotechnology and itslimitless possibilities. A chance meeting with an Irishgentleman led to the birth of Biocon in 1978.

How do India’s R&D facilities compare to the world?India is on the right track. Pioneering research work is beingdone in hi-end laboratories across the country. Indian drug

makers have started giving a greater thrust to R&D, R&Dspends have increased over 10 times in the last decade.India is making great headway in vaccine and biosimilarresearch and development.

Where does India stand in the field of biotechnology?The future looks vibrant. The revenues from biotechnologyhave leaped by over 22 per cent in 2010 to reach USD 4billion. Today, India is ranked among the top 12 biotechdestinations worldwide. Also, India is the fourth-largestglobal producer of drugs, by volume. Globalpharmaceutical companies are looking towards India forlower-cost R&D and manufacturing facilities.

What support do you expect from the Government toboost biotechnology?The Government of India has been a strong supporter ofthe industry. Through funding initiatives such as theBiotechnology Industry Partnership Programme and theSmall Business Innovation Research Initiative it has built aspringboard for the sector. In 2009-10, over USD 700million was spent on life sciences agencies. Thegovernment can further support the industry by providing financial assistance to R&D activities throughadditional tax breaks.

What do you do to unwind?I have a passion for collecting paintings. I believe an objectof art uplifts any environment. n

“India is doing well inbiotechnology... thefuture looks vibrant”

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