PLUS…

- Scale Mode Jigs - Simon Herbert shows us unique solutions to modeling witha very creative custom modeling tool.

- Club News brings us all the coverage of past and upcoming events from theSonoran Desert Model Builders.

- In Tips and Tricks, Ron Schlorff shows us how to scratch build wings for a WWIbiplane.

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STORMO!

IN THIS ISSUE…

ITALIAN FIAT G-55

Mold Lines is the officialpublication of the SonoranDesert Model Builders Modelingclub. We publish it on a monthlybasis and it is your source forClub news, interviews, modelreviews, photos or our member’smodeling work as well as articleson modeling techniques andother articles of interest to our

members.

WHO ARE THEY?The Sonoran Desert Model Builders is achartered IPMS model club in Tucson,Arizona dedicated to advancing each othersskills through tip sharing, encouragementand, most importantly, hands-on building.Our members enjoy a deep camaraderie andlevel of respect for each other as well as apassion for model building. We build it all...cars, airplanes, armor, ships, figures, sci-fi...

Our mission is simple… LET’S BUILD!MEETING DATES 2017

JANUARY ……………… 5 th

FEBRUARY ……………… 2 th

MARCH ……………… 2 th

APRIL ……………… 6 nd

MAY ……………… 4 th

JUNE ……………… 1 th

JULY ……………… 6 nd

AUGUST ……………… 3 th

SEPTEMBER ….………… 7 rd

OCTOBER ….….……… 5 st

NOVEMBER ..…….…… 2 th

DECEMBER ……..…… 7 rd

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WHERE CAN I

FIND THEM?

We meet at the Northwest corner of Alvernon and 22nd from 6:30 to 8:30 P.M.

1100 South Alvernon Way Tucson, AZ

I have been trying to pick Ron’s brain for awhile and finally he reveals his method onhow to scratch build wings.

I also go through my first “fast build” andwhile it was a fun project the most importantthing about it was I finished it in very littletime and with no stress whatsoever. This gotme thinking on Finished vs Perfect. One of thebest ways to learn how to do something is todo it. When it comes to modeling, completinga model is way more important than having aperfect Shelf Queen. When you look back acompleted model it may not look as good, butthat is because you have grown as an artistand are now better. The more models youfinish, the better you will become as amodeler. So, keep those words in mind,finished not perfect.

Editor’s Workbench

Hello fellow modelers and dear friends.Welcome to another edition of Mold Lines. Thismonth we have a newsletter that is loaded withmodeling ideas. More often than not thechallenges of the work performed in scalemodeling are unique. Over the years modelershave always come up with creative ways toovercome these challenges. Making customtools is a big part of it and this month we bringyou some cool ideas for one of those uniquetools. My original idea was to make an articleabout Scale Modeling Jigs but I came up with somany cool ideas that I will make several articlesinstead. So expect more in future editions.

In this issue you will also find a step-by-step onthe method used by Ron Schlorff to scratchbuild those fragile looking wings on his WWIaircraft. Ron’s fantastic scratch built WWIaircraft have won him the Raleigh Williamsaward two years in a row at Scorpfest.

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CLUB NEWS

• Monthly Club Meeting – The SDMB held their monthly meeting on February 2nd , 2017from 6:30 pm to 8:30 pm. I have to apologize ahead as I was not able to make themeeting this months (I had family show up unannounced) therefore the descriptions don’tmention what model belongs to who. But you can check our website for more photos.

• Make and Take at the Pima Air and Space Museum - This event is designed to introducechildren to the hobby of model building and the math and historical research used tobuild accurate scale models. It was held on March 4th, 2075 from 1:00 PM to 2:30 PM.

RECENT EVENTS

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CLUB NEWS

RECENT EVENTS

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See more awesome

model photos from our

meeting at:

www.sdmb.yolasite.com

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Somebody asked me once what was the one thing that createdinterest in me when selecting subjects to model. My answer waswithout hesitation, “colors”. For me unique and intricate colorschemes are what makes an otherwise boring vehicle aninteresting modeling subject. That said, when it comes to intricatean interesting color scheme the Regia Aeronautica (Italia Air Force)ranks pretty high in my list.

FIAT G-55 “CENTAURO”By: Dave Diaz

I’ve always wanted to try myhand at one of those mottlecammo patterns displayed byItalian aircraft. So with that inmind I decided to build a Fiat G-55 in 1/72nd scale. Now, one ofmy goals with this model was tomake it a fast build. Trying tomake things look as good aspossible coupled with thefrequent outbursts of AMS(Advance Modeler Syndrome)has taken its told in the past ma-

-king builds last forever. This time it would bedifferent. The kit is an old Super Model kit. Howold? I can only guess, but it wouldn’t surprise meif the molds date back multiple decades. Therules for this build were:• The model had no cockpit – I wasn’t going to

scratch build one.• The model had raised panel lines - I would

ignore them.• The model would be built out of the box.• I would focus my attention on the painting

and weathering.The interior is not just pretty plain, is downright empty. I painted it using Vallejo Cammo Green.

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The fuselage and wings consisted ofonly a handful of parts so building itwas a snap. I had to be careful whenfilling seams as I didn’t want to removethe raised panel lines. Once built I gaveit a coat of gloss black followed by acoat of Alclad Dark Aluminum. I pre-shaded the panels using highly diluteVallejo Burnt Umber (71040). I stuck apiece of sprue down the propeller shafthole so I could handle the plane whilepainting. The model was given a coupleof coats of hairspray and left to dry.

FIAT G-55 “CENTAURO”

The bottom of the aircraft was paintedusing a mixture (50/50) Tamiya Sky Blue(XF-23) and Sky Gray (XF-19). The panelswere shaded further by adding BurntUmber to the mix. The panels werehighlighted by adding White (XF-2) to

the original mixture. The bottom wasmasked and the top painted using PollyS – Italian Cammo Yellow. Again I addedmore shades on the panels with BurntUmber and the panels highlighted byadding Desert Yellow and Tan.

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FIAT G-55 “CENTAURO”Now for the fun part. I usedVallejo Olive Grey (70888) forthe cammo. I thinned it downconsiderably using Vallejothinner (about 60 to 70%)thinner. I then adjusted thepressure of my compressor to10 psi. By keeping thepressure low I could bring theairbrush very close to thesurface and make very finelines. This also gave me morecontrol to freehand thepattern. I practiced on a pieceof cardboard until I was happywith it.

Using an old small brush and warm water I started to remove paint to create chips andscratches. I kept them to a minimum and only added them to the obvious areas wherethe fuselage would wear out. I masked out the White identification band and the Italianwhite cross on the rudder and painted them using Vallejo Stencil (313).

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FIAT G-55 “CENTAURO”I wanted to display the aircraft in flight so Imade a base using a 2 inch wooden cube. Iapplied several coats of wood stain and sealed itwith high gloss lacquer. The aircraft will besuspended using a clear acrylic rod.

The model was then given a coat of clear gloss.For this I used Future floor wax applied with anairbrush. This gives a smooth surface for thedecals. To see the decal application see ourDecember newsletter. Once the decals weredone I coated them with Future to protect themduring the weathering sessions.

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FIAT G-55 “CENTAURO”Oil dot filters were applied to theentire model. This helped to unify allthe different colors and give themdepth. I applied pin washes aroundany details that needed to beoutlined such as the movable wingsurfaces, the engine exhaust and thelanding gear covers.

I also created streaking in variousplaces. I tried to keep the streakingsubtle. I also used the filters to tonedown the white areas as white almostseems too stark for my taste. Thepilot figure was painted and place inthe cockpit.

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FIAT G-55 “CENTAURO”The propeller was painted in several layers. It was painted in Alclad Aluminum alongwith the rest of the fuselage. A coat of hairspray was applied and then the propellercone was painted using a mixture of Vallejo Stencil (313) and Medium Gray (70870). Ilike to start white surfaces with a mixture rather than pure white then apply highlightsusing pure white. Warm water was used to created scratches on the propeller. The tipswere painted yellow and the rest in flat black.

After massive amounts of time the masking of the propeller and the canopy werecompleted. The canopy was painted in similar manner as the rest of the aircraft. Oncecompleted the masking was removed and the parts assembled. The Fiat G-55 wasdone.

With this build I realized that it is good to have fastbuilds. In total it took about 2-3 hours for constructionand about 15 hours for painting and weathering. Thesekinds of builds are great to recharge the batteries andcomplete a project sooner. This will motivate you andgive you momentum to tackle more complex projects.My suggestion is pick a simple model and try it andmodel on!

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FIAT G-55 “CENTAURO”

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FIAT G-55 “CENTAURO”

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By: Simon Herbert

Three point Modeling/ Painting Jig stand

Many unique crafts often require specialized tools for performing the needed work.Often when no suitable tool exists the craftsman has to use ingenuity and skill to createa tool that meets his exact needs. These customized tools are referred to as “jigs”. ScaleModeling is no different from any other craft and because the work we do as modelersis often unique the tools we use are many time unique as well. This month we take alook as some of these unique tools created by our club members that can help us makeour life as modelers a little easier.

Scale Modeling Jigs

After years of making do with a variety of tools to try and hold a model hands-free during the bulk of the painting process, I came up with a simple tool which appears to do the job. This is how the stand was made.

I bought two inexpensive sliding bevel squares from Harbor Freight Tools ("Pittsburgh"brand). A bevel square is a carpenters’ tool mostly used to determine angles. The newjig/ stand will resemble a “Y”, with the stem of the “Y” being the fixed point, and the

two arms of the “Y” beingadjustable. By modifying bothmetal sliding rules, andcombining them with one ofthe plastic handles, I obtaineda tool that has three veryadjustable location points.This gives a huge range ofconnectivity, and positionswhich hold almost any size ortype of model.

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Scale Modeling Jigs

The fixed portion of the “Y” hasan extension of aluminum barstock, drilled with a series of ¼-inch holes. I also added a seriesof 1/4 inch diameter holesalong each of the adjustablewings to gain additionalpositions. While I used a drillpress to make the holes, anelectric drill and steady handwould also work. The plastichandle was split- apart along its

seam, and with the two metal bevels temporarily screwed in place, the gap in thehandle was enlarged to accommodate the aluminum extension, which was thenepoxied and bolted in place.

Each of the three points is comprised of a ¼-inch collet epoxied with JB Weld to the topof the wingnut bolt. The set-screw in the collet connects with whatever ¼-inch roundmaterial is temporarily attached to the model. On aircraft models, I typically use a 1/4 -inch wooden dowel glued to engine nacelles or undercarriage bays, since these will be

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Scale Modeling Jigs

Having this removability factor makesit easy to attach and remove fromthe model during the paintingprocess. The only tool needed is asmall wrench for the collet screws,while the wing nuts can be hand-

tightened.

While I admit this tool could standsome refinement, the principledesign is sound and it worksextremely well. The toolaccommodates models of a widevariety of scales, and it was cheap;total costs including assortedhardware being about $15.00

finished-off later, and will behidden. Smaller models mayonly need, or have room fortwo attachment points, buteach model project will bedifferent. Once the need for ahands-free model are over, thewooden dowels are cut off themodel.

Tips and Tricks

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February 2017

Scratch building WWI Wings

By: Ron Schlorff

The hardest part of scratch building a World War 1 era aircraft is by far (other than therigging) the wings. The fuselage is usually just a 4 sheet box. The method I use formaking wings was developed by Harry Woodman and was illustrated in several articlesin the British publication "Scale Models". This publication has plenty of good tips forscratch building WW1 subjects, and other types of models.

1. To begin, first trace the shape ofthe wing into a piece of paper. A setof good reference drawings is a musthere. Cut the piece of paper and fix itto your working surface. Make surethe paper is fixed in place.

1.

2. 2. Place a piece of .010 sheet styreneon top of the wing design and tracethe lines for the wing ribs into theplastic.

Tips and Tricks

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February 2017

3. Using a ball point pen, score theribs into the .010 thick plastic sheet. 3.

4. Using a straight edge such as aruler or other suitable tool, bend thewing along the center. Make sure it isaligned properly.

4.

5. Clamp the leading edge of thewing between two pieces of balsawood. I use two clamps to keep thebalsa in place and protect the leadingedge.

5.

Tips and Tricks

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February 2017

6.6. Heat is used to melt theleading edge. This starts todefine the shape of the wing.Use caution when applying heatto plastic parts to avoid anyaccidents.

7. More heat is used to shapethe wing further. A cardboardtube is used as a guide for theshape. No worries, the wing willnot end up in the shape of thetube.

7.

8.8. Now the wing has beenshaped but it is still a hollowpocket. Inside this pocket weinsert a core made of balsawood. This core is pushedagainst the leading edge of thewing.

Tips and Tricks

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February 2017

9.9. After installing the balsa core,the wing is “closed” bycementing the ends andtrimming the edges to completethe wing.

10. The same process isrepeated for the upper wings.

10.

11.11. The center section of the wing isdone with the same process. It doestake practice to get good at theprocess and produce “usable wings”.I do have a box of “mutants and still-born” attempts.

Cheers

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SDMB Club Officers

& Contacts

HOW CAN I JOIN THE SDMB?

Test the water before you join!

Here's how: Drop by and say "hello" at one of our monthly meetings (see our Next Meeting pagefor date and location details). If you like what you see and hear then drop by again the next month

and be sure to bring your questions and we'll help you get started! The first two meetings arefree so drop on by! After your second meeting we would appreciate you joining our club. Our club dues

pay for various things such as community programs and sponsorships of trophies in contests. We arehappy to have visitors but even happier when you join our club of award winning modelers.

Damon Blair ec130crewchief@yahoo.com (VICE PRESIDENT)

Kent Weeks kentanddeanna@centurylink.net (TREASURER)

Derek Campbell 4nagato1@gmail.com(PRESIDENT)

Mike Bilcik mbilcik1@cox.net(CLUB IPMS POINT OF CONTACT)

Dave Diaz EDITOR_SDMB@Yahoo.com(NEWSLETTER EDITOR)

Steve Barlow redsteve921@gmail.com(CLUB WEBMASTER)

Visit our website at www.sdmb.yolasite.comYou can also find us on Facebook.

SDMB is an affiliated club of the International PlasticModeler’s Societywww.IPMSUSA.org

Mike Scotto quickfixer@yahoo.com (SECRETARY)