From the Desk of Mikaela Boley

The days are shorter, but no less cheerier than usual. If you’re anything like me, you might value the limited daylight even more than usual. It is a time to try and get everything done, so that you may rest all winter long, like the proverbial ant from Aesop’s Fables. Do not take example from myself, and procrastinate these time-sensitive duties.

There is lots to think about, with the new fertilizer law, fall weeds, establishing a new lawn, cutting and pruning back our plants… the list goes on. It’s hard not to get overwhelmed. In fact, it’s difficult not to let homeowners get overwhelmed! What a wonderful opportunity as Master Gardeners to divulge your advice on best gardening and environmental practices to Joe Homeowner. Why is your neighbor throwing all those precious leaves into a dumpster? Do you know someone who composts, who might gladly take that material off their hands? It’s easy to overlook our neighborhoods as potential for education. We don’t need to be nosy or pushy neighbors, but knowledge is power, and power should be shared with everyone.

Even though fall is busy, take the time to go for a walk, soak in some Vitamin D, and take advantage of this wonderful season.

Cheers!

Mikaela Boley

Talbot County Master Gardener Newsletter

Fall 2013

In this Issue: 2– 3 Ditch Gardens 4— The Great Pumpkin 5— Recipes 6–- Natives on the Tuckahoe 7—8 The MG Practicum 9— Mulch and Fertility 10—Notable Natives 11— Ask Mikaela 12— 13 MG Events and Announcements

Volume VIII, Issue IV

TALBOT COUNTY • 28577 MARY’S COURT, SUITE 1 • EASTON, MD 21601 • (410) 822-1244 • FAX (410) 822-5627

Educating People to Help Themselves

Local Governments • U.S. Department of Agriculture Cooperating

The University of Maryland is equal opportunity. The University’s policies, programs, and activities are in conformance with pertinent Federal and State laws and regulations on nondiscrimina-

tion regarding race, color, religion, age, national origin, gender, sexual orientation, marital or parental status, or disability. Inquiries regarding compliance with Title VI of the Civil Rights Act

of 1964, as amended; Title IX of the Education Amendments; Section 504 of the Rehabilitation Act of 1973; and the Americans With Disabilities Act of 1990; or related legal requirements

should be directed to the Director of Human Resources Management, Office of the Dean, College of Agriculture and Natural Resources, Symons Hall, College Park, MD 20742.

IN THE GARDEN

Field full of bright orange pumpkins, ready for carving.

V O L U M E V I I I I S S U E I V P A G E 2

Ditch Gardens: An Up and Coming Phenomena

Ditches don’t have to be an eyesore anymore. You can turn unslightly ditches that are often filled with trash and murky, toxic looking water into attractive mini gardens. These gardens are more than just a pretty face. They are working all the time. Bay-Wise Ditch gardens make the following pledges: Control Storm Water Remove toxins and sediment from soil and water Manage erosion Reduce weeds whacking and roundup application Beautify your yard The Talbot County Department of Public Works has begun a program to populate ditches with a variety of native plants. Most of these plants are water tolerant or water loving. When storm water infuses ditches, these hardworking natives help control the water. The plants root systems take up the water and distribute it among the plant cells. Some plants take toxins out of the soil and water purifying them (see Phytoremediation in Volume VII: Issue III of In the Garden newsletter). Talbot County Master Gardeners are getting into the action, too. Using the knowledge they are gaining from the ditch program, Master Gardeners will be using ditch gardens as a tool for making our region even more Bay friendly. It is a new addition to the Bay-Wise program where Master Gardeners visit homeowners to share information about gardening practices that are healthy for the Chesapeake Bay. Master Gardener Deb Danser is an early adapter. Her property has a number of ditches or swales. Some are freshwater; some are brackish. Several run into the Back Creek. One of the ditches contains storm water that comes from her neighbor’s properties. A recent examination of that ditch showed oily water strewn with bits of trash. Deb has begun experimenting by placing plants in the ditch. Plants that currently populate the ditch are Lobelia cardinalis - Cardinal flower, Iris, Scirpus - the bulrush and Peltanda virginica - green arum. The plants are lush and the ditch no longer contains standing water. She is also considering Eupatorium perfoliatum, - Boneset, Helianthus angustifolia - the Swamp Sunflower . Ditch gardens will be featured at Tilghman Island Day on October 29th. By Lynn Freeburger Bay-Wise Consultation Request

Please email lsfrebgr@verizon.net for a

Bay-Wise team to come and visit you!

P A G E 3 V O L U M E V I I I I S S U E I V

Scientific name Common Name Flower Height Sun/Shade Water Acorus americanus Sweet Flag Inconspicuous

yellow flowers and fruit

1-3 by 3-6 feet

Full sun Bright Shade

Moist or wet soils

Alisma subcordatum Water Plantian Small whorled white flowers

1-3 feet

Sun Wet soil

Andropogon virginicus

Broomsedge None 3-6 feet Part Shade Moist soil

Aquilegia canadensis

Red Columbine Red, pink, yel-low

20-30 inches

Part Shade/Shade

Moist soil

Asclepias incarnata Swamp Milkweed Orange, pink, white mauve

4.5 by 2/3 feet

Sun Moist or wet soils

Calamagrastis canadensis

Bluejoint Grass None 3-6 feet Sun/Shade Part Shade

Moist or wet soils

Aster novii-belgii New York Aster Light blue 12 by 15 inches

Sun/Part Shade

Average to moist soils

Carex crinita Fringed Sedge Florets 2 by 4 feet Full sun/Light Shade

Moist to wet soils

Carex lurida Lurid Sedge Inconspicuous green

1-3 by 1-2 feet

Full sun/ Part Shade

Medium to wet soils

Carex stricta Tussock Sedge Showy reddish brown

1-3 by 1-2 feet

Full sun/ Part shade

Medium to wet soils

Carex vulpinoidea Fox Sedge Insignificant 1-3 by 1/2 -2

Full sum/part shade

Wet Soil

Chelone glabra White Turtlehead White with pink fringe

2-3 by 1/2- 2/12

Part Shade Moist to wet soils

Eupatorium album

White boneset White 1-3 feet

Full sun/ Part shade

Moist to wet soils

Helianthus angustifolius

Swamp Sunflower Yellow - Fall bloomer

2-4 by 2-4 Sun Moist to wet soils Takes inundation

Iris versicolor Blue Flag Iris Violet blue 2-2 1/2 by 2-2 1/2

Full sun/ Part Shade

Medium to wet soils

Juncus effusus Soft Rush Yellow green 2-4 by 2-4 Full sun Wet soil Takes inundation

Leesia oryzoides Rice Cutgrass None 2-4 Full sun/ part shad

Moist to wet soils

Lobelia cardinalis Cardinal Flower Scarlet red, white or rose

2-4 by 1-2

Full sun/ Part shade

Moist to wet soils

Mimulus ringens Allegheny Monkey Flow-er

Lilac purple 1-3 by 3/4-1 feet

Full sun/ Part shade

Moist to wet soils

Recommended Cultivars for Maryland: www.extension.umd.edu/growit Fact Sheets HG 70

V O L U M E V I I I I S S U E I V

*For information on pumpkins: www.extension.umd.edu/growit Fact Sheet GE 120

P A G E 4

Although we generally look at pumpkins in regards to mythology and the ‘jack-o-lanterns’ of Halloween celebrations, these behemoths come with more variety than we could ever hope for. We look to pumpkins as a symbol, but also for food, decoration, livelihood, and recreation. Despite it’s popularity in the fall, it is a summer-growing fruit from the Curcurbitaceae family (including gourds, melons, and other squash). Pumpkins seeds should be planted in late May, early June to provide a long season for growing the large produce (90-120 days). They are harvested in October when color is full and before a heavy frost. In the United States, pumpkins have become the symbol for holidays such as Halloween and Thanksgiving. However, the origins of jack-o’-lanterns originated in ancient Celtic Ireland. In that period, jack-o’-lanterns were made from turnips and potatoes. After moving to America, immigrants discovered the pumpkin and the rest is history. Pumpkins have also found their place in competition, which includes pumpkin growing contests and the “Pumpkin Chunkin” championship. An entire culture has derived from growing, and then tossing, the enormous fruit. Although the most serious of growers will guard their secrets for making mammoth pumpkins, the process can be very complex and high maintenance. The plant needs a lot of sun, well-drained soil, and demand high volumes of water (the pumpkin fruit is 90% water). Strong vines will support large fruit, which pull a large amount of nutrients and water come August. In fact, pumpkins do the most growing at night and can expand it’s circumference several inches every night. During the dry season, pumpkins might need 15-20 gallons of water twice a week. Recommended Cultivars for Maryland: Giant: Big Max, Dill’s Atlantic Giant Jack-o-lantern: Connecticut Field, Howden, Lumina, Spookie, Triple Treat Pie: Baby Bear, Small Sugar, Pie, Sugar Baby, Triple Treat Ornamental: Jack-be-Little

V O L U M E V I I I I S S U E I V P A G E 5

2 Cups Yellow Squash (8 Medium) 2 Eggs 1 Cup Butter– Melted 1 Cup Sugar 3 Cups Flour 1 tsp Salt 1 Tbsp plus 2 tsp Baking Powder Cook squash until tender, drain and mash. Measure enough for 2 cups, combine squash, egg, and butter; set aside. Mix dry ingredients, add squash mixture. Mix together and spoon into greased muffin tins, 3/4 full. Bake at 375 degrees for 20 min.

Yellow Squash Muffins Courtesy of RaeAnn Holder

Recipes

Candy Corn: The Fun Facts

Candy corn has had the same recipe since 1900— sugar, corn syrup, and marshmallow. The candy was invented in Philadelphia in the 1880’s,

and produced to the masses at the turn of the 20th century.

Starting as a slurry of liquid candy, the mixture is colored and run through a mold to create each kernel. Kernels of candy corn are polished

in large drum pans with edible wax and glaze.

9 Billion kernels are produced each year— that’s 35 million pounds. So enjoy your sugary snack as part of a true American tradition!

V O L U M E V I I I I S S U E I V P A G E 6

The next time you cross the Tuckahoe River on the new Maryland 328 bridge and can safely do so, slow down and admire the wonderful new landscaping provided by the State Highway Administration. Better yet, kayak, canoe, or boat under the bridge, slowing down to better appreciate the plantings. The highway department has done a wonderful job. The landscapers continue to maintain the area, repairing occasional washouts and replacing dead plants. All of the more than two thousand new plants are Maryland natives. There are eighteen canopy trees – trees which, when mature, will reach a height of 35 feet or more: including Pin Oak, Red Oak and American Beech. There are forty evergreen trees: Eastern Red Cedar and American Holly. There are fourteen understory trees: Shadblow Serviceberry, Eastern Redbud and Fringetree – all of which bloom in the springtime. Finally, there are more than two thousand shrubs – both deciduous and evergreen – many of which have flowers, berries and/or outstanding fall color. These include Red Chokeberry, Inkberry, Virginia Sweetspire, Shining and Smooth Sumac, Mapleleaf Viburnum, Southern Arrowwood, Sweet Pepperbush and Buttonbush. Each side of the river has a different selection of plants. These plantings will add greatly to beauty of your trip along or across the Tuckahoe.

Natives on the Tuckahoe:

By: Gloria Lindemann

Eastern Red Cedar– Juniperus virginiana Sweet Pepperbush— Clethra alnifolia

P A G E 7 V O L U M E V I I I I S S U E I V

Does the idea of presenting yourself at a farmer’s market or county fair with a name tag declaring you a ‘master’ strike fear in your heart? It did mine, for a long time, until I had the opportunity to attend the MG Training – Ask a MG Practicum – with the pros form the Extension Service– plant pathologist Dave Clement, and Mary Kay Malinosky, entomologist, and Stephen Allgeier, horticultural consultant, MG and our host in Carol County. Not only does this class arm you with a wealth of diagnostic tools, it also braces your confidence to ask the right questions, suggest some solutions, and punt to the professionals when clarity of cause or effect is beyond your reach. Did I say it was fun? Twenty spirited, curious, knowledgeable, and opinionated MG’s gathered in Carol County this spring to get a refresher on plant and bug pathologies, weeds, abiotics, and practice diagnosing in the field. At the end, we gathered in small teams to sort through and diagnose nearly fifty samples of all kinds – 2 types of ticks, rusts, galls, rot, grubs, bagworms, spiders, mealies, fungi, beetles, sawflies – an Ark of garden companions.

A Few Big Takeaways: Half of the problems you’ll see are the result of basic horticulture missteps – planting ‘wrong’, pruning without a clue, watering too much too little, location, soil, etc. When a neighbor brings a little twisted dried up twig in a baggy that has been in her purse for a week … how can you possibly help?

1. Start with identifying the plant --- people will fret that their pine trees are losing their

needles … in the fall. Some signs are natural parts of the plant cycle. Others will bring in yellow stripping in the leaves, which might actually be the a highly desirable variegated cultivar.

2. When was it planted? What parts of the plant are showing this (blank). Are others having the same symptoms?

3. How was it planted? Was it in a ball or rootbound in a pot? 4. Soil and planting techniques – master question – ‘How long did it take you to dig

the hole?”. The answer to that will give you a clue about soil compaction. 5. Where was it planted? Some don’t like wet feet, like yews.

(Continued on Page 8)

The Master Gardener Practicum— Fear Not! By Melinda Hudson

Mary Kay Malinoski finds a pest...

V O L U M E V I I I I S S U E I V P A G E 8

(Continued from Page 7) The culprit is not always obvious. For instance, with insects and mites, they may be long gone, but their evidence remains. If you can, offer some possibilities – with the magic words … sounds like .. could be … probably. Walk through the following: 1. What else do you need to know? 2. Do you know what’s normal? With the plant? In this season? 3. Do you need to look it up --- stick to university sites and reliable refs (see a list

below) 4. Can you get a sufficient size sample and a picture? 5. Do you need to ask someone else. Arm yourself and delight the crowd with references For the digitally inclined, having a tablet with you is helpful and entertaining. Have HGIC site at the ready: http://extension.umd.edu/hgic Plant Diagnostics problem solver: http://extension.umd.edu.hgic Bugwood: http://bugwood.org/ Mike Raupp’s Bug of the Week: http://bugoftheweek.com BugGuide: http://buggguide.net/node/view/15740

Note of Caution: From my own experience … Leafsnap is a delightful app but is a blunt instrument. Its great to narrow down identifications, but do not rely solely. Just enjoy, build your own library. For those who love a book – and who doesn’t – here are some of the very best Broadleaved Shrubs and Shade Trees, by our own Mary Kay Malinioski and David

Clement – this is also linked to the diagnostic web sites which are amazingly detailed.

Kaufman Field Guild to Butterflies of North America, by Jim Brock and Kenn Kaufman

Kaufman Field Guide to Insects of North America, by Eric Eaton and Kenn Kaufman

Problems in the landscape include common issues such as bacterial leaf scorch (top left) on oak trees and dogwood anthracnose (top right).

V O L U M E V I I I I S S U E I V P A G E 9

An Ohio State University research team demonstrated in a study recently that what mulch you choose to lay down on your bed can greatly affect the growth of plants and trees in your beds. All mulches will eventually decay but it is how they get there that is important. (My information comes from an article in Organic Gardening Vol. 60:6) Every mulch has a different carbon-to-nitrogen ratio (C:N ratio). The study consisted of planting river birches and comparing those mulched with pulverized wooden pallets, which have the highest C:N ratio of the mulches tested, with those mulched with composted yard waste, which has one of the lowest C:N ratios. Birches without any mulch were used as controls. The trees mulched with composted yard waste were, by far, bigger and healthier after a couple of years. The research informs us about the interaction between plants roots and bacteria and fungi present in any soil. They all feed on the same nutrients. When we put down mulch with a high C:N ratio, the populations of bacteria and fungi explode and they take up and immobilize the nitrogen available in the soil. The plant roots will then not be able to access the amount of nitrogen needed for optimal growth. As a gardener you can supplement with a fertilizer high in nitrogen, such as blood meal, if you insist on the look of say pine bark mulch. However, why not just use a mulch with a lower C:N ratio? Mulches with a C:N ratio less than 30:1 have enough nitrogen in the mulch not to rob plant roots of nitrogen, so no purchase of supplemental nitrogen is needed. "Organic Materials and their C:N Ratios Recycled pallets 125:1 Ground pine bark 105:1 Fresh wood chips 95:1 Hardwood bark 70:1 Fresh wood chips with foliage 65:1 Pine straw 64:1 Freshly fallen leaves 55:1 Composted wood chips 40:1 COMPOSTED YARD WASTE 17:1 COMPOSTED MANURE 12:1" As you can see, only the last two mulches will not rob the soil of nitrogen. It should be noted that when a mulch eventually decays the robbed nitrogen will be released back to the soil, but your plants or trees can suffer in the meantime. After reading this, I am going to stop buying shredded pine bark mulch and only mulch with composted manure or compost. Lena Gill

Top left, going clockwise: fresh wood chips, pine straw, composted manure, and leaves.

How Mulch Can Affect Soil Fertility

V O L U M E V I I I I S S U E I V P A G E 1 0

Why in the world is this plant called Boneset? Eupatorium perfoliatum is one of the notable natives that are coming into increased usage because it is a perennial that works well in rain gardens and in our up and coming ditch gardens. Eupatorium p. is a relative of our popular Joe Pye Weeds. Like many plants it has numerous common names. Along with Boneset, it is known as Ague Weed, Hempweed, Indian sage and Throughwort. Seeing the stems puncturing the leaves, early herbalists determined that the plant could help in the process of setting bones. They wrapped the leaves around splints. Dried leaves were also used to make tea - boneset tea - a bitter remedy to treat colds, coughs and constipation. In the south, African Americans used it to treat fever and as a tonic. American Indians used its root fibers to attach to whistles. They believed it would increase the whistle’s ability to call deer. English folklore says burned leaves would get rid of wasps and flies. It has also used to treat dengue fever and malaria. Boneset, however, is also poisonous to humans and livestock. While it can excrete uric acid, it can also cause liver damage. A member of the Asteraceae family, Eupatorium perfoliatum grows from three to six feet tall. Small white flowers containing 10 -20 florettes appear in fuzzy clusters. Erect stems cut through the opposite leaves that are 4-8 inches long and wrinkled. It thrives in sun, part shade and shade. It requires at least moist soil; it does well in wet soil. Eupatorium p. is found in damp praries, alluvial woods, bogs, stream beds and meadows from Eastern Canada to Florida. It also appears in Asia. Eupatorium p. appears in the rain garden at the Talbot County Extension office.

By: Lynn Freeburger

Notable Natives:

Eupatorium perfoliatum

“Boneset”

V O L U M E V I I I I S S U E I V P A G E 1 1

Mikaela- I need a credible opinion on yearly pruning techniques for red twig dogwoods and double-file viburnum. We are taking care of a property in Talbot County that has a large amount of red twig dogwoods and double-file viburnum, and everyone seems to have a different opinion on what should be done with them. They are planted within feet of a commonly used road and are also all different sizes. Sincerely, Pruning Problems Dear Pruning Problems, Certainly there is some discussion concerning when to prune shrubs and trees– different species have different needs. The viburnum belongs to the spring flowering shrubs, and they usually need pruning right after flowering. Flower buds develop during the previous season’s growth, and pruning before this time can result in the elimination of flowers. For dogwoods that are grown for their beautiful branches (such as Cornus sericea), it is recommended that pruning be done during the winter or in very early spring. This will rejuvenate new growth that will be bright in color come next winter. Prune out the old wood, whose color is more dull. Again, this is different than the needs of flowering dogwoods such as Cornus florida or Cornus kousa. For resources, consult Extension publications either through the HGIC website or in books such as Michael Dirr’s Manual of Woody Landscape Plants. Virginia Tech has a wonderful chart for timing your pruning to woody species. Consult the Virginia Cooperative Extension: Publication 430-462 or http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/430/430-462/430-462.html. Good luck and happy pruning- Mikaela

ASK YOUR

HORTICULTURIST:

mboley@umd.edu

Ask Your Horticulturist:

Mikaela Boley is the Horticulturist and Master Gardener Coordinator for University of Maryland Extension in Talbot County. The Extension Office often has questions from homeowners and members of the public regarding home gardening, soil testing, plant and insect identification, plus much more. Do you have a question that needs answering? Want to talk gardening or get advice for environmentally friendly practices in the residential landscape? Please contact Mikaela Boley, Home Horticulturist and Mas-ter Gardener Coordinator at (410) 822-1244 ext. 12, or by email mboley@umd.edu.

V O L U M E V I I I I S S U E I V P A G E 1 2

Upcoming Events

and Dates 2013

Please contact Mikaela Boley, Master Gardener Coordinator with any question or to volunteer to help

with a program at mboley@umd.edu or 410-822-1244.

MG Advanced Training Classes for October 2013 For full detail about each class and for registration forms, go to http://extension.umd.edu/mg/advanced-training

Wild Collecting Native Seeds: This class is being offered in 2 remaining locations:

LOCATION #1: UME Baltimore Co. (Hunt Valley)

Date: Tuesday, October 15th Time: 9:30-3:30pm; Presenter: Sara Tangren; Fee: $35

LOCATION #2: 4-H Center in College Park Dates: Saturday, October 26th Time: 9:30-3:30 Presenter: Sara Tangren; Fee: $35

Course Description: Wild seed collection is an imperative step in both native plant horticulture and in plant

conservation. We will explore the practice and two important wild seed collection protocols established by the

Assoc. of Seed Certification Agencies and the Seeds of Success Collection Protocol. In the afternoon, we will

wild collect native local seeds from a meadow/forest edge ecosystem (wear tick protection). You’ll learn how

to collect local native seeds (where, when, how much, from which plants) that you might not have access to

otherwise. We’ll then return to the classroom for important information on how to clean, label and prepare our

seeds for storage.

Some of the saved seed can be used for your own garden projects. The remaining seed collected will be used to

make a contribution to the Mid-Atlantic Regional Seed Bank, where it will be available for local restoration

efforts; to the Seeds of Success program for long-term storage in the USDAs national germplasm conservation

system; and possibly to local “seed libraries”. This workshop is your opportunity to become involved in a

unique and exciting regional seed collection network.

Join Us for Fall!

October 20th— Harvest Festival at the Talbot Ag Center from 11-5pm. There will be games, contests,

interactive events, and fall fun.

November 2nd— Come visit the Ask a Master Gardener booth at the Easton Farmer’s Market. Answer

questions, engage in discussion, and distribution information pertinent to Talbot County homeowners.

Novemeber 8th-10th— Waterfowl Festival in Historic Downtown Easton from 10-2pm.

Help us manage our booth in the Conservation and Environment Tent amidst the many

activities associated with our wildlife of the area.

To volunteer at events, please contact Mikaela Boley (MG Coordinator) at

mboley@umd.edu or at 410-822-1244.

V O L U M E V I I I I S S U E I V P A G E 1 3

Basic Native Tree ID Skills and Tour: Location: Wye Research and Education Center, Queenstown

Date: Tuesday, October 22nd Time: 9:30am-3:30pm

Presenter: Sara Tangren, Ph.D., UME Assoc. Agent

Reg. Fee: $35; Reg. Deadline: October 15th

Course Description: Learn basic tree ID skills you can use

anywhere as we focus in on about 12 natives. We will spend the

morning using a mixture of individual and team activities to learn

about native trees for use in landscape. Topics covered will include

twig and leaf morphology, comparative morphology, species

identification, natural history, and landscape use. Although the morning is targeted at MGs who are

new to woody plant ID, MGs already skilled in this area will have the opportunity to expand those

skills by assisting others. This will be a fun, interactive and discovery-filled class!

Bay-Wise Certification: Location: Cecil County UME Office

Dates: Saturdays November 9th & 16th Time: 9:30-3:30pm; Fee: $50

Course Description: Become certified to perform Bay-Wise Consultations and Certifications after

taking this 2 day, comprehensive course on giving advice for better water quality.

For more classes…. Visit http://extension.umd.edu/mg/advanced-training for the full list of classes, locations, and regis-

tration.

Talbot County Master Gardener

Monthly Meetings

Date: October 16th, 9:30 am

Location: Talbot Ag Center

Join us for the monthly meeting to discuss current

events, future opportunities, and answer volunteer

questions. Plant swap will also be available for those

looking to split and exchange plants with other Master

Gardeners.

Date: November 13th, 9:30 a.m.

Location: St. Michael’s Library

Join us to hear speaker Pat McNeal from Good Life

Gardens to talk irises and other specialty flowers–

regular meeting will follow.

WANT TO HELP

WITH THE NEWSLETTER??

Are you working on a gardening project at

home or in the community? Do you enjoy

poetry, or sharing your

favorite seasonal recipe?

Pictures, articles, or interest pieces are en-

couraged and welcome!

Submit materials to: mboley@umd.edu

ASK YOUR

HORTICULTURIST:

mboley@umd.edu

University of Maryland Extension 28577 Mary’s Court, Suite 1 Easton, MD 21601

Non-Profit

US POSTAGE

PAID

Easton,

Maryland

Permit # 334

Current Resident Or:

If you are interested in becoming a Master Gardener, call our University of Maryland

Extension Office at 410-822-1244

You can also visit the Maryland Master Gardeners website at: http:/extension.umd.edu/mg

and the Talbot County Extension website at: http:/extension.umd.edu/talbot-county

The University of Maryland Extension programs are open to any person and will not discriminate against

anyone because of race, age, sex, color, sexual orientation, physical or mental disability, religion, ancestry,

national origin, marital status, genetic information, political affiliation, and gender identity or expression.