ARCHITECTURAL INSPIRATIONSIN

FASHION DESIGN

Prof. Dr. Halime PaksoyÇukurova UniversityFaculty of Fine Arts

Department of Textiles, Turkey

Instr. Sema Yalç›nÇukurova UniversityFaculty of Fine Arts

Department of Textiles, Turkeysyalcin@cu.edu.tr

Introduction:Today’s one of the most rewarding professions is thedesigner working in art business. A design processinvolves a series of creative activities includingresearch, analysis and decision making. Thedesigner creates designs that are attractive andfunctional and uniquely suited to the human needs.

A good designer needs to be a constant observerand creative thinker as well as a good listener, acareful interpreter and a skilled crafts person.Ultimately the designer must be an artist! He mustunderstand style, composition, balance, aestheticsand human emotions and also understand the visionand the psychology of perception. Using these toolsthe designer must learn to think, feel and create withhis heart. The designer needs a new, fresh,innovative spark for creating. It is wondered where allthese design ideas come from! Inspiration for designthemes can be found everywhere.

With an enquiring mind the further extremes shouldbe explored to find an inspiration and almosteverything can be a creative spark to the designer. Adesigner should always be aware of the environmentas well as the changing time; music trends, streetculture, films, and fine art movements. Today’sinteractive world provides innumerable opportunitiesfor the designer. The designer gets to know media

starting from the educational period. The internet andthe new technologies in education play an importantrole in getting to know different cultures. Television isalso a visual culture. It is necessary for the designerto follow the new trends and the changes in fashionsince it is a retroactive design process. All kinds ofmedia are important in understanding andinterpreting the visual perception of the designers.

Here is an example how media- internet- andcommunication technologies- newspapers,magazines, cable televisions- affect the designerstudents. A group of fashion design students in FineArts Faculty in Cukurova University designed uniquegarments inspired by architecture. They started bylooking through architectural magazines andinteractive media to select a building. Once they havedecided what kind of architecture might inspire them,they selected the building and studied its form anddetails by drawing sketches. They focused on severaldetails of the building: the windows, doors, roofs,stairways, decoration, colors and textures as well asthe overall form. They also took the surroundings ofthe building into consideration. The sketches thatthey have drawn guided them in deciding whichdetails are to be used and which are to be eliminated.Finally they have combined the basic elements intotheir fashion designs. In these student designsinspired from architecture you can discoverinteresting textures, glamorous colors and strongdesign features which reflect their source and arealso concepts in their own style. In the followingpaper, the examples from these designs will be givenand architectural interactions will be discussed.

Architecture & Fashion DesignArchitecture can be an inspiration for a fashiondesign. It may seem a little surprising to use anarchitectural building as an inspiration for fashiondesign, but all examples of architecture, whethertraditional or contemporary, can cause a creativespark to the designer. Whether it is in the overalltheme of a building or just a detail, useful ideas in thearchitecture can be found as inspiration to create agarment Architecture and fashion may seem far fromeach other; in architecture, designing monumentalbuildings are meant for a long visual life, whereas

fashion in clothes changes every season. However,both forms are three dimensional and contain space;both are structured; both are related to fine arts andvisual.

Three dimensional form and space is the basis ofarchitecture and so are the most designed objects inart. In evaluating a designed object differentperspectives should be considered. Threedimensional designs as in architecture, sculpture,and fashion occupy a space which affects the overallform of the design. Fashion designers, who have tohave a spatial way of thinking like architects,translate a two dimensional material (cloth) into athree dimensional form (body-shaped garment).Fabric is a two dimensional shape but when it isconstructed as a garment surrounding the humanbody, it becomes a three dimensional form which hasits own space as well. Fashion designer needs toexperiment with form and shape, while designing andconstructing a garment that is appropriate to humanbody.

Riegelman gives a very poetic description of thesimilarities between architecture and fashion with herfollowing words [1]: “Draping is like architecture: thebody is the armature, the internal structure, and thefabric, like skin, glides over this frame. Fabric fallsand twists, forms knots, bends and curves, like a riverit ebbs and flows over the contours of the body.”Designed garments have to be conceived in relationto function as well as the contours of the human bodythat will use the object. Fashion designer is alsoexpected to be extremely creative and eager toexplore his or her future environment. Fashiondesigner must have some idea of the developmentand origins of fashion and trends that come and go inart and design. The designer must produce uniqueand innovative designs which will present newchallenges, new obstacles and new humandynamics.

Kunii and Wachi consider fashion to be an influentialmedium which leads the social trends internationally.Topological model in fashion is mentioned to allowseveral varieties of dress designs. This is describedas a three layers model: topological, geometrical,

visual. Topological layer specifies the fashion mode,geometrical layer produces varieties of shapes andvisual layer implements the real dress in variousmedia like TV, publications, etc. [2]. This topologicalapproach is also valid in architectural design.

The inspiration for garment silhouettes and detailscan be found in almost any architectural source. Theinspiring architecture may be a very familiartraditional building as well as an artifact somewherein the world which may be very far away. Hereinteractive media is very important for the designer ingetting to know the architecture as well as its differentaspects. When the architecture is investigated by thedesigner an unexpected detail of a building maybecome one of the magnificent features of thegarment design.

Examples From Student DesignsSYDNEY OPERA HOUSESurrounded by water on three sides, Sydney OperaHouse is one of the most magnificent buildings,constructed by Danish architect Jorn Utzon, on oneof the most beautiful harbors in the world (Picture 1).Rising in the Sydney Harbor, Sydney Opera House ismeant to look like a giant sailing ship. The OperaHouse is 197 feet high and famous with itsoverlapping shell roof structure [3].

Özezen [5] constructed costumes inspired by SydneyOpera House (Figure 1). She used the structure ofthe Opera House to form the main parts of thegarments. In Figure 1a, the roof of the Opera House,looking like segments of an orange, has been used informing the sheer and overlapping sleeves of theblouse and the mini skirt. In this example the formhas been dominating element of the design. The bluewater of the harbor gave its color to the fabric. Asseen in these examples architecture can surround ahuman body as well as Sydney Harbor!

Picture 1. Sydney Opera House, Section Drawing on the right and photograph on the left [4]

Figure 1. Özezen’s costume designs inspired by Sydney Opera House [5]]

Figure 1a.

Figure 1c.

Figure 1b.

Figure 1d.

LA BOCA-BUENOS AIRESPerhaps the most colorful area in Buenos Aires is LaBoca (Picture 2), which sits along the port, is oftenperceived as the birthplace of tango. The main streetin La Boca is full of brightly painted houses made ofwood and metal where fairs for artisans and painters,and open air tango shows are held [6].

The vibrant, bright colors and typical woodenstructure of the houses in La Boca (Picture 2) haveinspired fiimflek [8] and as a result flamboyantgarments are designed. The structure of horizontal

wooden tiled houses has been used in forming thetexture of the fabric of the garment. The horizontalaccordion pleats of the narrow dress reflect LaBoca’s blue painted houses (Figure 2a). Roof of thehouses has become long and flared skirt details(Figure 2c). The colors of the designed garments arethe most outstanding element of the designs that alsoreflects La Boca’s cheerful and dynamic atmosphere.This work by fiimflek shows that in Adana, far awayfrom Buenos Aires, the architectural inspirations canlead a fashion designer to reflect the nostalgia oftango!

Picture 2 La Boca [7]

Figure 2. fiimflek’s costume designs inspired by La Boca [8]

Figure 2a.

Figure 2b.

Figure 2c.

Figure 2d.

GALATA TOWEROne of the most striking landmarks of Istanbul,Galata Tower (Picture 3) has dominated Beyo¤lu’sskyline since 1348 and still offers the best panoramicviews of the city. It is a huge stone tower with itscone-capped cylinder top. Originally known as Towerof Christ, it was built by Genoese colony to defendthemselves [9].

The massive and stable stone form of the tower hasinspired the fashion designer Horuzo¤lu [11]. Thetower of Christ (Picture 3) has become a realauthentic garment. The folding skirt with its hard,

stone texture reflects the form of the tower. Theeffective use of minimal coloring like the pale tones ofgrey, black and brown also reflects the original colorsin the architectural source (Figure 3a). The conicaltop of the tower has become a fascinating dress withbeads hanging on the hemline (Figure 3b). In figure3c the arcaded columns adorning the tower havealso become the skirt details of a sheath dress. Thehard stone texture has been shaped into a drape;sliding over the hip to the knee curving under the bust(Figure3d). The form, structure and texture of thefashion designs all remind Galata Tower.

Figure 3. Horuzo¤lu’s costume designs inspired by Galata Tower [11]

Picture 3. Galata Tower [10]

Figure 3a.

Figure 3b.

Figure 3c.

Figure 3d.

SAFRANBOLU HOUSESSafranbolu houses (Picture 4) are constructed in thestyle of the traditional Turkish architecture at thebeginning of 18th and 19th century, and are locatedat different regions of Safranbolu district. There areapproximately 2000 traditional houses with veryspecific urban structures and architecture styles. Thehouses are constructed from stones, sun- dried brick,wood and tile. Long and narrow bay windows ofSafranbolu houses are very typical [12].

These Turkish houses have also become aninspiration for contemporary garment designs of

designer, ‹daye [14]. The wooden structure of thehouses is the texture of the dress as well as the formof the skirt (Figure 4a). It is over the edge! Thewindows, which add a special appearance to thefacades of the houses, are used as body of thecostume (Figure 4b). You can see the small details ofthe architecture as becoming big accessories of thedresses. The stone structure covering the entrance ofthe houses has become the texture of the hat with itssmall brim as the accessory of the costume (Figure4b). The wooden handles at the windows have alsobecome striking buttons of the coats (Figure 4d).

Figure 4. ‹daye’s costume designs inspired by Safranbolu Houses [14]

Picture 4. Safranbolu House [13]

Figure 4a.

Figure 4c.

Figure 4b.

Figure 4d.

TAJ MAHALTaj Mahal (Picture 5), meaning Crown Palace, isregarded as one of the Seven Wonders of the World,and was built by Emperor Shah Jahan in the memoryof his dear wife and Queen Mumtaz Mahal at Agra,India. As a tribute to a beautiful woman and as amonument for enduring love it impresses femininefeelings. It is the sum of Islamic architecture andHindu architecture of pre-Islamic India. It is entirely awhite marble tomb with its thick walls, corbelledarches, and heavy lintels. The color changes atdifferent hours of the day and during differentseasons. Its stunning architectural beauty is beyondadequate description, particularly at dawn and sunset[15].

The garment designs inspired from Taj Mahal(Picture5) reflect the dreamlike appearance of the

architecture at sunset! The four minarets existing atthe corners of Taj Mahal have become a narrow, mididress with its geometric and symmetric architecturalelements as being the outstanding elements offashion design. It has a focus on waist (Figure 5a).The curving and gently swelling dome has become abulbous skirt with a curved hemline and its upperdetails being a bustier (Figure 5c). The arches of theentrance gate have become striking skirtdetails(Figure 5d). The rigid and at the same timeethereal form of the tomb is reflected in the pattern,texture and form of the garments. Shah Jahan hasbuilt the tomb in the memory of his beloved wife sothe architecture impresses feminine feelings.Maruldal› [17] has also impressed by these femininefeelings in using accessories in the garments (Figure5d).

Figure 5. Maruldal›’s costume designs inspired by Taj Mahal [17]

Picture 5. Taj Mahal [16]

Figure 5a. Figure 5b.

Figure 5c.

Figure 5d.

KONGRESSHALLE The Congress Hall (Picture 6) is a timeless, modernarchitecture and ideal spatial configuration located inthe center of Berlin. This unique building, designedby the architect Hugh Stubbins, is striking for its clearand arching forms and many interesting architecturaldetails. The shiny aluminum dome can be seen fromfar away. Despite the suspended appearance of thearching form of the roof, it is mounted on two external

supports [18]. Yüksek [19] has designed high fashiongarments inspired by Kongresshalle (Picture 6). Itsarching roof has become an arching and stiff miniskirt which also reflects the architecture’s modernand unique structure (Figure 6a). In this exampleYüksek adapted the most interesting part of thearchitecture to the garment designs. The form of thearchitecture leads the designer to create ultramodern fashion!

Figure 6. Yüksek’s costume designs inspired by Kongresshalle [19]

Picture 6. Kongresshalle [20]

Figure 6a.

Figure 6d.

Figure 6b.

Figure 6c.

References1. Riegelman, N., (2003), 9 Heads- A Guide toDrawing Fashion,(Third Eddition ), 9 Heads Mediain assosiation with Art Center College ofDesign,Pasadena,California,USA, 104.

2. Kunii, T. And Wachi T., “Topological DressMaking as Fashion Media Modeling”, 1998MultiMedia Modeling, October 12-15, 1998Lousanne,Switzerland,http://ieeexplore.ieee.org/xpl/abs_free.jsp?arNumber=722993

3. Opera House.http://www.anzac.com/aust/nsw/soh.htm

4. Sydney Opera House-Jorn Utson-Great BuildingsOnline.http://www.greatbuildings.com/buildings/Sydney_Opera.html

5. Özezen, N.,(2004), Costume designs inspired byarchitecture, Project for Apparel Design Course atÇukurova University Faculty of Fine Arts TextilesDepartment, 35x50 cm.colored pencil

6. Boenos Aires-Explorations. http://www.geographia.com/argentina/buenosaires/exploring.htm

7. Dan Heller’s photos of Buenos Aires, Argentina.http://www.danheller.com/buenos-aires.html

8. fiimflek, Z.,(2004), Costume designs inspired byarchitecture, Project for Apparel Design Course atÇukurova University Faculty of Fine Arts TextilesDepartment, 35x50 cm.water color

9. ‹stanbul Galata Tower Information.http://www.istanbulinfolink.com/the_city/towers/galata_tower.htm

10. Galata Tower,‹stanbul,Turkey.http://www.istanbultravelguide.net/galatatower.htm

11. Horuzo¤lu, R.,(2004), Costume designs inspiredby architecture, Project for Apparel Design Courseat Çukurova University Faculty of Fine Arts TextilesDepartment, 35x50 cm.colored pencil and watercolor

12. Republic of Turkey,Ministry of Culture-Safranbolu Housesgoturkey.kultur.gov.tr/destinasyon_en.asp?belgeno=10272&belgekod=9615&baslik=KarabÃÂ_k

13. Safranbolu Houses.http://www.altinsafran.com/ingevleri.htm

14. ‹daye, R,.(2004), Costume designs inspired byarchitecture, Project for Apparel Design Course atÇukurova University Faculty of Fine Arts TextilesDepartment, 35x50 cm.colored pencil and watercolor

15. Taj Mahal-A Tribute To Beautyhttp://www.angelfire.com/in/myindia/tajmahal.html

16. Taj Mahal-Emperor Shah Jahan-Great BuildindsOnlinehttp://www.greatbuildings.com/buildings/Taj_Mahal.html

17. Maruldal›, R,.(2004), Costume designs inspiredby architecture, Project for Apparel Design Courseat Çukurova University Faculty of Fine Arts TextilesDepartment, 35x50 cm.colored pencil and watercolor

18. bbc Berliner Congress Centerhttp://www.bcc-berlin.de/en/00/frameset.html

19. Yüksek, ‹.,(2004), Costume designs inspired byarchitecture, Project for Apparel Design Course atÇukurova University Faculty of Fine Arts TextilesDepartment, 35x50 cm.colored pencil

20. Kongresshallehttp://www.courses.psu.edu/nuc_e/nuc_e405_g9c/berlin/theater/kongress.html