ROADTRIPS

ICELAND’S RING ROAD

Alexis Averbuck, Carolyn Bain, Jade Bremner, Belinda Dixon

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

1 Sights

r Beaches

2 Activities

C Courses

T Tours

z Festivals & Events

4 Sleeping

5 Eating

6 Drinking

3 Entertainment

7 Shopping

8 Information & Transport

Tips from Locals

Top Tips

Link Your Trips

Trip Detour

Family

History & Culture

K Food & Drink

Outdoors

5 Eating

Essential Photo

Walking Tour

4 Sleeping

These symbols and abbreviations give vital information for each listing:

Symbols In This BookHOW TO USE THIS BOOK

ReviewsIn the Destinations section: All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference, starting with their most preferred option. Additionally:

Sights are arranged in the geographic order that we suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author preference.

Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these ranges, by author preference.

% Telephone number

h Opening hours p Parking n Nonsmoking a Air-conditioning i Internet access WWi-fiaccess s Swimming pool v Vegetarian selec-

tion E English-language

menu c Family-friendly

# Pet-friendly g Bus f Ferry j Tram d Train apt apartments d double rooms dm dorm beds q quad rooms r rooms s single rooms ste suites tr triple rooms tw twin rooms

Map Legend

Walk Track/Path

River/CreekIntermittent RiverSwamp/MangroveCanalWaterDry/Salt/ Intermittent LakeGlacier

Beach

Cemetery (Christian)Cemetery (Other)ParkForest

Sportsground

International

Cliff

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian Overpass

Tunnel

Walk RouteLinked TripTrip DetourTrip Route

Airport

Metro station

Train/Railway

Cable Car/ Funicular

Highway marker

ReservationUrban Area

Trip Stop

Tram

Trip Numbers

Walking tour

Trip Detour

Parking

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimarySecondary

Unsealed Road

Transport

Hydrography

Areas

Boundaries

Population

Routes

Highway Markers

Trips

Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

Glacier

CONTENTS

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to Iceland’s Ring Road......................... 5

Iceland’s Ring Road Map ................................. 6

Iceland’s Ring Road Highlights ...................... 8

Reykjavík City Guide ......................10

Need to Know ..................................12

Ring Road Planner ..........................14

Outdoor Activities Map ..................16

Hot-Pot Hop Itinerary .....................18

Wildlife Watching .......................... 20

ROAD TRIPS

1 The Golden Circle & the

Southwest 2–3 Days .... 25

2 Southeast Iceland 3–4 Days ..... 35

3 East Iceland 2–3 Days ..... 45

4North Iceland 4–5 Days ..... 53

5West Iceland 1–2 Days ..... 65

DESTINATIONS

Reykjavik .........................................74

Around the Ring Road ................... 96

The Golden Circle ...................96

Hvolsvöllur & Around ............. 100

Skógar ............................... 100

Vík .................................... 100

Kirkjubæjarklaustur............... 101

Lómagnúpur & Around .......... 104

Skaftafell ........................... 104

Ingólfshöfði ......................... 104

Hali to Höfn ........................ 105

Höfn ................................. 105

Djúpivogur .......................... 106

Breiðdalsvík ........................ 106

Egilsstaðir & Around ............. 106

Mývatn & Around ................. 108

Akureyri ............................. 111

Varmahlíð ........................... 114

Hvammstangi ...................... 114

Borgarnes & Around ............. 115

ROAD TRIP ESSENTIALS ....118

33

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Reykjavík (p74)Iceland’s addictive capital is where everything’s at, and has a heady blend of fresh air, stylish design, artfully hip cafes and bars, fabulous and unusual museums plus a thriving restaurant scene.

The Golden Circle (p96)In striking distance of the capital, this circuit com-prises some standout natural attractions, including the world’s oldest parliament, shifting tectonic plates, the original geyser and a stunning waterfall.

Akureyri (p111)Iceland’s second city packs a punch for a diminutive town and is worth getting to know. There’s a quality restaurant and art scene, and the only decent nightlife beyond Reykjavík.

Strokkur geyser (p28)SNOMEDIA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Destinations

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WRITER THANKSALEXIS AVERBUCKLife in Iceland wouldn’t be the same without the brilliant support of Carolyn Bain. She shared her friends and her ace tips on this great land with utmost generosity. Folks such as Halldór at Visit North Iceland and Addi, Anton, Stefán, Jóhanna, Finnur, Villi, Elisabet and Odinn and others I met along the way graciously shared their stories and their ideas. Thanks, too, to my own personal peachy King of the Mountains, RVB.

CAROLYN BAINHeartfelt thanks go to Icelandic friends, old and new, for making my relocation to Reykjavík such a rewarding move. As ever, a huge cast of locals, travellers and expats helped make this research project a delight, and I’m grateful to all of them for helping me see more, understand more and enjoy more. Cheers

to Clifton Wilkinson for the job, and bouquets to my co-authors for their collaborative spirit, especially to Alexis and Belinda for sparking gin-soaked dreams of future projects.

JADE BREMNERThanks to Destination Editor Clifton Wilkinson for his superb destination and publishing knowledge. Plus, everyone working behind the scenes on this project – Cheree Broughton, Dianne, Jane, Neill Coen, Evan Godt and Helen Elfer. Last but not least, thanks to my travelling accomplice Harriet Sinclair, who joined me for a few epic days scaling Hekla volcano and walking the legendary Fimmvorduhals trail.

BELINDA DIXONWhat an extraordinary opportunity – to drive pitted roads beside vast fjords, soaking in hot-pots along the way. Thanks as big as those mountains go

to the whole Lonely Planet team and all who’ve shared information and inspiration, including Magnus in Djúpavík, Charis in Reykjanes, Kári and Thomas in Ísafjörður and Eyþor in Flateyri. And to the warmest, wisest collaborators a writer could wish for: Alexis Averbuck and Carolyn Bain – raising a snúður to you both!

ACKNOWLEDGE-MENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.

Front cover photograph: Northern lights over the Ring Road, Tom Mackie/AWL ©

Back cover photograph: Puffins, south Iceland, Marco Bottigelli/4Corners ©

THIS BOOKThis 2nd edition of Lonely Planet’s Iceland’s Ring Road guidebook was researched and written by Alexis Averbuck, Carolyn Bain, Jade Bremner, Belinda Dixon. The previous edition was written by Alexis Averbuck, Carolyn Bain and Andy

Symington. This guidebook was produced by the following:

Destination Editor Clifton Wilkinson

Senior Product Editor Genna Patterson

Senior Cartographer Valentina Kremenchutskaya

Product Editor Kate James

Book Designer Fergal Condon

Assisting Editors Judith Bamber, Victoria Harrison, Gabrielle Innes, Kate Morgan, Monique Perrin

Cover Researcher Meri Blazevski

Thanks to Grace Dobell, Mateusz Kmiecinski, Joe Piscotty, Amanda Williamson

BEHIND THE

SCENES

134

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Aaccessible travel 124-5accommodation 13, 27, 125-7activities 11, 16-17, 56, 16-17,

see also individual activitiesair travel 124Akureyrarkirkja 61Akureyri 17, 61-2, 111-14, 112Almannagjá rift 27Alþingi 27, 60Arctic Circle 61Arnarson, Ingólfur 40Arnarstapi 70art galleries, see museums

& art galleriesAskja 59ATMs 128

Bbeer 42Beljandi Brugghús 48Berunes 47-8bicycle travel 15, 95birdwatching 20, see

also puffin watchingGrímsey 61Höfn 43Ingólfshöfði 39-40Mývatn 60Papey 47Vík 33

Bjorbodin Beer Baths 62boat travel 124boat trips, see also rafting

Djúpivogur 47Fjallsárlón 40Húsavik 58Jökulsárlón 41Seyðisfjörður 50Vestmannaeyjar Islands 32

Borg á Mýrum 67Borgarfjörður 67Borgarfjörður Eystri 14, 21Borgarnes 66-7, 115-17, 115, 117Breiðdalsvík 48, 106budgets 13, 125, 128Búðir, see FáskrúðsfjörðurBúlandstindur 47bus travel 15business hours 13, 129

Ccampervans, see drivingcamping 125-6car hire 12, 120-1car insurance 119-20car-sharing 121car travel, see drivingcars, see drivingcathedrals, see churches &

cathedralscell phones 13, 131churches & cathedrals

Akureyrarkirkja 61Hallgrímskirkja

(Reykjavík) 11, 76Hallgrímskirkja

(Hvalfjörður) 69Núpsstaður 38 Papey 47Þingvellir 27

climate 12costs 13, 125, 128craters, see volcanoes &

craterscredit cards 128Culture House 11, 76currency 12, 128cycling 15, 95

Kirkjubæjarklaustur 101, 103

Mývatn 109-10Reykjavík 81, 84

Ddangers, see safetydebit cards 128Deildartunguhver 68detours 14Dettifoss 55-6Diamond Beach 41-2Diamond Circle 14Dimmuborgir 59-60disabilities, travellers

with 124-5discount cards 125djammið 91Djúpivogur 47, 106dog sledding 110000 Map pages

INDEX

135

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

drinking 91, 132-3, see also individual locations

driving 12, 15, 119-23, see also transportcampervans 121-2car hire 12, 120-1car-sharing 121driving licences 119F roads 120fuel 12, 123insurance 119-20maps 120motorcycles 121petrol 12, 123road conditions 122road distances 123road rules 122-3speed limits 120, 123websites 121, 122

ducks 60DVDs 125Dverghamrar 37 Dyrhólaey 33

EEast Iceland 44-51, 46Efstidalur II 28Eggin í Gleðivík 47Egil’s Saga 67, 116Egilsstaðir 51, 106-8, 107Eldheimar 32electricity 127Elíasson, Ólafur 75emergencies 12, 131, 133environmental issues 120, 130events, see festivals & eventsEyjafjallajökull 33

FF roads 120farm accommodation 126Fáskrúðsfjarðargöng 50

Fáskrúðsfjörður 49-50festivals & events

Brákarhátíð 116Humarhátíð 105Iceland Winter Games 111Reykjavík Pride 92

fishing 48Fjaðrárgljúfur 36-7Fjalladýrð 55Fjallakaffi 55Fjallsárlón 40-1Fláajökull 43Flatey Farm 42Flúðasveppir Farmers

Bistro 30Flúðir 29-30, 99-100food 11, 13, 127-8, 132-3Fortitude 50Friars’ Island 47fuel 12, 123

GGame of Thrones 30Gamla Laugin 29-30gardens, see parks & gardensgas 12, 123gay travellers 92, 128gemstones 49geothermal springs & spas

18-19, 81, 18Bjorbodin Beer Baths 62Borgarnes 67Deildartunguhver 68Fontana 27-8Gamla Laugin 29-30GeoSea 58Geysir 28Hoffellsjökull 43Krauma 68Mývatn Nature Baths 57-8Reykjavík 80-1Strokkur 28Víti 59Vök Baths 51

Geysir 28, 97, 99Geysir Center 28Gjáin 30glaciers & ice caps

Eyjafjallajökull 31, 32, 33Fjallsárlón 40-1Fláajökull 43Hoffellsjökull 43Jökulsárlón 9, 41-2Langjökull 68Mýrdalsjökull 31, 33Skaftafell 9, 38-9Skeiðarárjökull 38Snæfellsjökull 70Sólheimajökull 33Tindfjallajökull 31Vatnajökull 40

Glaumbær 63Glymur 69Goðafoss 60-1Golden Circle 24-33, 96-100,

26-7, 98Græni Hatturinn 62Grímsey 61Grundarfjörður 70guesthouses 126Gullfoss 28-9, 99

HHafnarfjall 67-8Hali 42, 105Hallgrímskirkja

(Hvalfjörður) 69Hallgrímskirkja

(Reykjavík) 11, 76Harpa 11, 76Heimaey 32Heinabergsjökull 42-3Helgadóttir, Gerður 69Hellnar 70Herðubreið 59Herðubreiðarlindir 59‘hidden people’ 37, 47Highlands 59000 Map pages

136136

IND

EX D–H

highlights 8-9, 10, 6-7hiking

Hvalfjörður 69Hverir 57Laugavegurinn 31Mt Esja 69Mývatn 108Reykjavík 81Seyðisfjörður 50Skaftafell 104

historic sitesFáskrúðsfjörður 49-50Goðafoss 60-1Ingólfshöfði 39-40Keldur 31Lögberg 27Skansinn 32Stöng 30Þingvellir 26-7

hitchiking 15Höfði 60Hoffellsjökull 43Höfn 43, 105-6holidays 129Hólmur 43horseback riding

Akureyri 111Borganes 116Gullfoss 29Varmahlíð 62-3

hostels 127hot pots, see geothermal

springs & spashot springs, see geothermal

springs & spashotels 127Hraunfossar 68Humarhátíð 105Húsafell 68Húsavík 21, 58Hvalfjörður 68-9Hvammstangi 63, 114-15Hvannadalshnúkur 39Hverfjall 59

Hverir 57Hvítserkur 63Hvolsvöllur 30-2, 100

Iice caps, see glaciers

& ice capsice caves 68Iceland Winter Games 111Icelandic language 132-3Icelandic Seal Centre 63Illugastaðir 63Ingólfshöfði 39-40, 104-5insurance 119-20internet access 13, 128Ísafjörður 16Íslenska Stríðsárasafnið 50itineraries 18-19, 18

JJökulsá 41Jökulsá á Fjöllum 59Jökulsárlón 9, 41-2

Kkayaking 33, 42-3Keflavík International Airport

95, 124Keldur 31Kerlingarfjöll 16Kirkjubæjarklaustur 37, 101,

103-4Kirkjufell 70Krafla 56-7, 108, 109Krafla Fires 56Krafla Power Station 108Krauma 68Kveldúlfsson, Skallagrímur 67

LLagarfljót 51Landmannalaugar 31Langjökull 68language 12, 132-3

Laugardalur 11, 77Laugarvatn 27-8, 97, 98lava fields

Dimmuborgir 59-60Eldhraun 36Höfði 60Kirkjugólf 37Krafla 56Landbrotshólar 37Mývatn 59-60Viðgelmir 68

LAVA – Iceland Volcano & Earthquake Centre 31-2

Laxdæla Saga 66Laxness, Halldór 97Leirhnjúkur 56LGBTIQ+ travellers 92, 128Lindin 28Lofthellir 108Lögberg 27Lómagnúpur 37-8, 104Lystigarðurinn 61Lýtingsstaðir 62-3

MMalarrif 70maps 120measures 125Meleyri 48midges 60minerals 49mobile phones 13, 131Möðrudalur 54-5money 12, 13, 128motorcycles, see drivingMt Esja 69museums & art galleries

Ásgrímur Jónsson Collection 77

Aurora Reykjavík 75-6Borgarfjördur Museum

115-16Culture House 11, 76Eldheimar 32

137137

IND

EX H–M

museums & art galleries continedGlaumbær 63Gljúfrasteinn Laxness

Museum 97Icelandic Phallological

Museum 77Icelandic Seal Centre 63Íslenska Stríðsárasafnið 50Kling & Bang 75LAVA – Iceland Volcano &

Earthquake Centre 31-2Ljósafoss Power Station 96National Gallery of

Iceland 77 National Museum 11, 74Nýló 75Reykjavík Art Museum 11, 75Reykjavík Maritime

Museum 76Saga Museum 75Settlement Centre 67Settlement Exhibition

11, 74-5Siglufjörður Herring

Museum 62Sigurgeir’s Bird Museum 60Sigurjón Ólafsson

Museum 77Skógar Folk Museum 33Skriðuklaustur 51Snorrastofa 68Ullarselið 67War & Peace Museum 69Whales of Iceland 76Þórbergssetur 42

Mýrdalssandur 36Mývatn 17, 59-60, 108-10, 109Mývatn Nature Baths 57-8

NNational Museum 11, 74national parks & reserves

Fjallabak Nature Reserve 31Hvalnes Nature Reserve 47Ingólfshöfði 39-40Snæfellsjökull National

Park 70Teigarhorn 47Vatnajökull National Park 40Þingvellir National Park

26-7, 96-7nature parks, see national

parks & reservesNjál’s Saga 30-1North Iceland 52-63, 54-5Núpsstaður 38

OÓlafsson, Sigurjón 77Old Harbour 11, 75Old Reykjavík 11, 74Omnom Chocolate 75Öndverðarnes 70opening hours 13, 129Öskjuvatn 59Ósland 43Öxarárfoss 27

PPapey 47parking 11parks & gardens

Laugardalur 11Lystigarðurinn 61Reykjavík Botanic Gardens

80Patreksfjörður 16petrol 12, 123Pétursson, Reverend

Hallgrímur 69planning 14-15, 19, 6-7plugs 127public holidays 129puffin watching, see

also birdwatchingHeimaey 32

Húsavík 58Ingólfshöfði 39-40Papey 47Reykjavík 81Snæfellsnes Peninsula 70Vestmannaeyjar Islands 32Vík 33

Rrafting 29, 62-3, see

also boat tripsreindeers 50, 106reserves, see national parks

& reservesReyðarfjörður 50-1Reykjahlíð 58-9, 108Reykjavík 9, 10-11, 70-1, 74-

95, 78-9, 82-3accommodation 11, 84-8activities 11, 16, 80-1courses 81drinking 11, 91-2entertainment 92-3food 11, 88-91highlights 10-11history 74information 94nightlife 91-2parking 11shopping 93-4sights 11, 74-7, 80tours 81, 84travel to/from 13, 94travel within 11, 94websites 11

Reykjavík Art Museum 11, 75Reynisdrangur 33Reynisfjall 33Reynisfjara 33ride-sharing 15road conditions 122road distances 123road rules 122-3Route F985 42000 Map pages

138138

IND

EX M–R

SSæheimar 32safety 130-1Sagas 30-1sandar 38 Sandfell 49scenic flights 104, 110seal watching 41, 47, 63Selfoss 56Settlement Centre 67Settlement Exhibition 11,

74-5Seyðisfjörður 17, 50shopping 133, see also

individual locationsSiglufjörður Herring

Museum 62Sigurgeir’s Bird Museum 60Skaftafell 9, 17, 38-9, 104Skallagrímsson, Egil 67Skeiðarársandur 38skiing 56, 61-2, 111Skógar 33, 100smoking 125Snæfellsjökull National

Park 70Snæfellsnes Peninsula 14,

16, 70Snorrastofa 68snowmobile rides 42South Coast 102Southeast Iceland 34-43, 36-7Southwest Iceland 24-33, 26-7spas, see geothermal springs

& spasspeed limits 120, 123Staðarskáli 63Stöðvarfjörður 49Stokksnes 46-7Stöng 30Strokkur 28Sturluson, Snorri 68Stykkishólmur 70sustainable travel 130

Sveinsdóttir, Petra 49swimming pools 19 Systravatn 37

TTanni Travel 48telephone services 13, 131tipping 13, 128Tjörnin 75tourist information 131Trandilsson, Gaukur 30transport 13, 124, 133, see

also drivingtrekking, see hikingTröllaskagi Peninsula 14, 62

UUllarselið 67Upper Borgarbyggð 68

VVarmahlíð 62-3, 114Vatnajökull National Park 40Vatnsnes Peninsula 63vegetarians 13Vestmannaeyjar Islands

14, 32Vesturland, see West IcelandViðgelmir 68Vík 33, 100-1Vindbelgjarfjall 108visas 12, 131Víti 108volcanoes & craters 31-2

Askja 59Eldfell 32Eyjafjallajökull 32Hekla 30Helgafell 32Hverfjall 59Krafla 56-7Leirhnjúkur 56Vestmannaeyjar Islands 32Víti 108

Wwalking, see hikingwaterfalls

Dettifoss 55-6Foss á Siðu 37Glymur 69Goðafoss 60-1Gullfoss 28-9Háifoss 30Hengifoss 51Hjálparfoss 30Hraunfossar 68Öxarárfoss 27Selfoss 56Seljalandsfoss 32Skógafoss 33Svartifoss 39Systrafoss 37

weather 12websites 11, 13, 121, 122weights 125West Iceland 64-71, 66-7Westman Islands, see

Vestmannaeyjar Islandswhale watching 11, 21, 58, 81whitewater, see raftingwi-fi 13, 128wildlife watching 20-1WWII 50

ÞÞekkingarmiðstöð

Sjálfsbjargar 124Þingvallavatn 27Þingvellir 26-7Þingvellir National Park 26-7,

96-7Þjórsá 30Þjórsárdalur 30Þjórsárstofa 30Þórbergssetur 42Þórðarson, Þórbergur 42Þórsmörk 14, 31

139139

IND

EX S–Þ

JADE BREMNER

Jade has been a journalist for more than a decade. She has lived in and reported on four different regions. Wherever she goes she finds action sports to try, the weirder the better, and it’s no coincidence that many of her favourite places have some of the best waves in the world. Jade has edited travel magazines and sections for Time Out and Radio Times and has contributed to the Times, CNN and the Independent.

BELINDA DIXON

Only happy when her feet are suitably sandy, Belinda has been (gleefully) travelling, researching and writing for Lonely Planet since 2006. It’s seen her navigating mountain passes and soaking in hot pots in Iceland’s Westfjords, gazing at Verona’s frescoes and fossil hunting on Dorset’s Jurassic Coast. Belinda is also a podcaster and adventure writer and helps lead wilderness expeditions; see belindadixon.com.

ALEXIS AVERBUCK

Alexis has travelled and lived all over the world, from Sri Lanka to Ecuador, Zanzibar and Antarctica. In recent years she’s been living on the Greek island of Hydra; sampling oysters in Brittany and careening through hill-top villages in Provence; and adventuring along Iceland’s lava fields, sparkling fjords and glacier tongues. A travel writer for more than two decades, Alexis is also a painter – visit www.alexisaverbuck.com.

CAROLYN BAIN

A travel writer and editor for more than 20 years, Carolyn has lived, worked and studied in various corners of the globe, including Denmark, London, St Petersburg and Nantucket. She has authored more than 50 Lonely Planet titles, with her all-time favourite research destination being Iceland. Her love of the country recently led her to relocate from Melbourne, Australia to Reykjavík.

OUR WRITERS

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 5541532nd edition – May 2019ISBN 978 1 78657 840 2© Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 201910 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in Chinapublication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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