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IceCreamConeHowProductsAreMade(/How+Products+Are+Made/publications.aspx?pageNumber=1)|2001|Holmes,Gillian|700+wordsCOPYRIGHT1996GaleResearchInc.

Ice Cream Cone

BackgroundToday, the ice cream cone is a standard in any ice cream store or stand. This tastytreat is known as a way to cool down in the summer and makes an edible containerfor a cold snack. The frosty smoothness of the ice cream complements the crispycrunch of the cone for an interesting taste combination. There are almost as manystories of how the ice cream cone was invented as there are flavors that it holds.

HistoryThe ice cream cone would seem to be a simple and unpolitical a treat, yet it's originis hotly contested. The most favored folk tale regarding the invention of the icecream cone takes place at the 1904 World's Fair held in St. Louis, Missouri. Twofood vendors had stalls next to each other. Arnold Fornachou made and sold icecream. His neighbor, Ernest A. Hamwi, had come to the United States fromDamascus, Syria. Hamwi made sweet wafers (much like today's wafer-like cookies)that Syrians call "zalabias." Hamwi cooked the wafers on a waffle iron heated overa coal fire, coated them with sugar, and rolled the wafers while they were still hotso they were easy to eat and carry. When Fornachou ran out of dishes to hold his icecream, Hamwi rolled his wafers into a cone shape instead of a tube, and thegentlemen topped the wafer with scoops of Fornachou's ice cream. Zalabias became"World's Fair Cornucopias," and the cone concept was born.

With over 50 ice cream vendors at the Fair, Hamwi was soon doing a land-officebusiness. He started his own cone company after the Fair called the CornucopiaWaffle Oven Company, but tired of business and went to work for the competition,



Heckle's Cornucopia Waffle Oven Company in St. Louis. The cornucopia or wafflename was replaced with the word cone in 1906. Meanwhile, Hamwi promoted conesat fairs all across the United States. Returning to his own business in 1910, Hamwistarted the Missouri Cone Company of St. Louis. He died in 1943 after amassing afortune founded on ice cream cones.

A second contender, David Avayou also claims to be the cone's creator. Avayouowned an ice cream parlor in New Jersey where he made both ice cream and cones.He took his wares to the St. Louis World's Fair and claims to have been selling themthere when Fornachou and Hamwi stumbled on their joint product.

Still a third contestant is Abe Doumar, another immigrant who had moved with hisfamily of 12 brothers and sisters from Lebanon to St. Louis. Doumar's favorite treatfrom his homeland was a pita bread rolled into a cone shape and filled with fruityjam. He approached another of the Fair's zalabia-makers and suggested applyingthe same concept by rolling a waffle and filling it with ice cream. Doumar laterdeveloped a variety of waffle machines, moved to New York, and sold ice creamcones at Coney Island. By the 1930s, Doumar owned a number of restaurants alongthe East Coast; the new trend for "fast food" that grew with the popularity of theautomobile almost drove him out of business until he got the idea to make wafflecones in the front windows of his restaurants. The baking process and the girls inthe windows rolling cooked waffles into cones became attractions that saved therestaurants.

Opposing these charming stories is a solid fact. In 1903 (the year before the World'sFair), Italo Marchiony was awarded a patent for the "pastry comet," which hedeveloped to hold his frosty wares. Marchiony was an Italian immigrant who livedin New York City. His product was lemon ice that he scooped onto small glasses andsold to customers along Wall Street. After consuming the ice, the customerreturned the glass, and it was washed and used again. Breakage and the continualtask of washing dishes frustrated Marchiony; he substituted paper cones, but these(and littering consumers) made a messy problem. As early as 1896, Marchionyinvented a fully consumable alternative. By 1903, he had made a machine thatcreated cones like the sugar cone known today. The machine resembled a longwaffle iron with spaces to cook 10 cones. Later, Marchiony opened a cone factory inHoboken, New Jersey. He is also credited with building the first ice cream sandwichwith two waffle squares.



Apart from his patent from the United States government as proof, Marchiony hashistory and sentiment on his side. His business of selling lemon ice in glass scoopsis part of a tradition in Italy dating back to the early 1800s. The Penny-Ice Menbecame common across Europe from about 1820 to 1860, as revolution andeconomic hard times drove immigration. Part of this wave consisted of Italians wholeft their homeland for Europe's major cities. They pushed carts through the streetsbeginning as early as 7 A.M. during the summers and sold flavored ice seated ontiny glass goblets. A goblet cost a penny, the people consumed the ice, and thegoblet was returned to the vendor. In Italy, the Penny-Ice Men cried, "Ecco unpoco, che un poco" (Here's a little for so little [money]), and this cry becamedistorted by non-Italians into the word hokeypokey. In New York and otherAmerican citieswhere the custom had migrated by the mid-1800sthe Penny-Ice Men were known as Hokeypokey Men. Their trade and their use of the tiny glassgoblets are a direct link to the development of the ice cream cone.

After the World's Fair, cone-making machines were regularly sold in catalogs for$8.50. Individual vendors could afford these, so the street vending of ice cream nowaccompanied by cones grew enormously. In 1912, Frederick Bruckman devised amachine that rolled the cones hot from the waffle iron automatically; 245 millionice cream cones were sold in 1924 alone.

Raw MaterialsThree main dry ingredients compose all types of cones. Wheat flour, tapioca flour,and sugar are chosen for baking quality, strength, and relative sweetness,respectively. Tapioca is made from the cassava plant, which has a starch-like root.The root is processed into the tapioca "pearls" familiar in pudding and also intofinely ground flour. The cassava grows only in tropical climates so conemanufacturers import it from South America and Southeast Asia. Manufacturerspurchase both tapioca flour and sugar in large bags, but wheat flour is bought bythe tanker-truck load and is unloaded by air pressure that blows it from the tankerinto storage silos. During World War II, wheat flour was needed for priority itemslike bread; as a substitute, ice cream cone makers used popcorn that was ground toa flour-like consistency.

The quantity of sugar is a major distinguishing feature between cone types. Sugarand waffle cones are made of one-third sugar. Not only does this influence thesweet flavor, but it affects the brown finished color and the crispy texture. Cakecones have less than 5% sugar.



Wet ingredients (and others added with the wet materials) include water,shortening (edible fat or grease), baking powder (a dry ingredient but one thatbegins to react as soon as it is mixed with water so it is added last to avoid contactwith any moisture in the air), coloring, flavoring, and salt. Both the coloring andflavoring are natural products made by outside specialists.

Before any liquid is added, air compressors are again used to mixed these dryingredients in large coolers. The compressors are computer-controlled to regulatethe quantities, and different combinations of ingredients are used to makewaffle/sugar cones and cake cones, so separate coolers are used to mix each type.The combined dry ingredients are termed cone filler or cone batter. Some specialtysuppliers premix cone filler and sell it to cone bakers.

DesignThere are three principal types of ice cream cone; the cake cone (also called amolded or flat-bottomed cone), the waffle cone, and the sugar cone. The wafflecone is characterized by a rough or unfinished top edge. The sugar cone is madewith the same ingredients and process as a waffle cone but has a finished top edgeand sometimes a chocolate lining.

The waffle pattern on all types of cones, the finished edge of the sugar cone, andthe shape of the flat-bottomed cone (as well as comet varieties of the cake cone)greatly influence the ease with which the finished cones pop out of their molds.Cone designers refine the waffle pattern and other shape characteristics and maketrial batches to find the best design that releases from the mold without burning,breaking, or creating weak spots that won't hold ice cream or will break when thescoop is applied. The molded cone has a lip around the top that keeps dripscontained inside the cone. The row of teeth helps firmly seat the scoop of ice creamand provides added strength where the upper lip of the cone meets the cylindricalbase.

The flat bottom of the cake cone is now an accepted industry standard, but it wasnot invented until the late 1940s. Before this, cake cones were also cone shaped, butJoseph Shapiro of the Maryland Cup Corporation (later the Ace Baking Company)made the flat base especially for the Diary Queen chain. Filling cone-shaped conesand handing them to customers is a two-handed business, but the flat-bottomedcone stands on its own and can be filled more easily.



Shapes and patterns also affect baking characteristics. The finished cone should beuniform in color as well as shiny on the outside. It should bake uniformly so thatall sides (including the flat bottom) are thoroughly cooked. The size is importantbecause cones are expected to hold single, double, and triple scoops. The first scoophas to fill the cone and weight the bottom without vanishing completely into thecone, and the third scoop should not overpower the cone and cause it to break or tiptoo easily. The filled cone should look equally appetizing whether it has one, two,or three flavors atop it.

Strength is an important characteristic, not only to the consumer who holds it.Cones must withstand prefilling in the factory if they are used for frozen treats likethe Drumstick. Unfilled cones have to be packed together by mechanical devices.The cones must "nest" (fit one inside another) neatly to allow efficient packing.Minimal packing materials are used to cushion the cones, mainly because of cost.

Taste is the key design factor. Cake cones should be crisp instead of spongy andtasty like a mild cereal. Waffle cones should be crunchy and sweet but not too hardor over-powering in sugar content. The ice cream is the featured food, and the conemust complement its quality.

The Manufacturing Process1. The batter for all cones is mixed in large vat-like mixers and stored in coolers.

Air compressors blow the dry ingredients into the mixers. Separate mixers andcoolers are used to combine and store the batter for cake cones and for waffleand sugar cones together. The air compressors that pump in all ingredients arecomputer-controlled so the recipe for each cone is correct. Computers alsocontrol all the other machines in the factory; in the mixing area, they tell thecompressors when the coolers are running low on batter, so the next batch ismixed automatically.

2. As the dry ingredients are blown in, water is added, and the mixers begin to stirthe batter. The dry ingredients and water are mixed for nine minutes before theother ingredients are added. The computer signals to a worker when the nine-minute mix is done, and the worker inspects the partial batter then adds theremaining ingredients by hand. This is one of the few hands-on parts of theprocess; it is essential to the character and quality of the finished cones. Theworker resets the mixer when the ingredients have been added, and the mixerbeats the batter for a few minutes at high speed, not only for perfect blendingbut to add just the right amount of air to the batter. The mixer for cake cones



yields about 300 lb (112 kg) of batter, and the waffle/sugar cone batter is mixedin 150-lb (56-kg) batches. The mixed batter is then pumped to its cooler; themixer shuts itself off automatically and resets itself for the next batch.

3. From the coolers, batter is pumped to storage tanks next to the baking ovens. Itis then pumped through a pipe. Cake-cone batter is pumped into the cake-conemolds, and waffle/sugar-cone batter flows onto plates much like the bottomplates of waffle irons. The pumping system applies a pre-measured amount ofbatter to either the mold or the plate. The cake cones bake for about 90 secondsand emerge in their finished shape and ready to be packed. Waffle and sugarcones bake for about 82 seconds, but they take longer to finish because theyhave to be shaped. The flat, hot, baked circles are rolled into cone shapes byspecialized cone-rolling machines in a process that takes about 20 seconds.These cones cannot be handled for packing until they are completely cooled, andthey are air-cooled for 2 minutes. Cooling makes the cones firm to hold theirshape.

A large cone-making plant will be equipped with as many as 40 ovens that willproduce 5 million cones per day. The plants usually operate 24 hours per dayand every day of the year except significant holidays. Total production from amajor manufacturer can be 5 billion cones per year.

4. Finished cones travel along conveyors to the packing area. Cake cones arerelatively strong and are nested inside each other, wrapped with clear paper thatis sealed to be air tight, and placed in boxes. Waffle and sugar cones are crispand delicate, so each one is individually packed in a Styrofoam container with abottom bowl and a lid (a "clamshell" container). These packages are also boxed.All boxes have been preprinted by an outside printer and box manufacturer. Theouter design is not only decorative but carries the nutritional informationrequired by the United States government for a single-cone serving. The boxesare bulk-packed into larger cartons called master packs for shipping anddistribution.

Some boxed cones are sent to the dairy-pack industry which fills the cones withchocolate liners and ice cream, freezes their products, and repackages them forindividual sale and bulk sale in boxes in grocery stores. The best known of thedairy-pack products are probably Drumstick and Nutty Buddy. Boxed cones arealso distributed to food service businesses like Dairy Queen, Baskin-Robbins,and McDonalds. These businesses (like the dairy-pack trade) fill cones



individually with their own ice cream and soft-serve products. Amusementparks are also part of the food service business that fills cones with frozen treatson the spot.

Finally, packaged cones are sold in bulk to retail businesses like grocery, chain,convenience, and drug stores. These retailers usually do not fill or modify thecones; they sell the boxed cones directly to the consumer who can make customdesserts and snacks with the cones at home.

Quality ControlAlthough cone-making is computer-controlled, workers are essential to qualitycontrol. The correct addition of ingredients is the most obvious quality control step,but throughout the process specially trained quality control inspectors watch conemaking and baking, taste-test cones occasionally, and reject any that aremisshapen, broken, or over/under-cooked. Whole cones are also removed from theprocess and cut and broken apart to check that cones are truly perfect inside andout.

Byproducts/WasteCone makers usually do not produce byproducts although they commonly make thethree types of cones. There is some breakage, and some are rejected during thequality control process. During the period from 1920 to about 1950, cone makersbagged the broken cones and sold them as a snack byproduct. Families could buythe broken pieces and eat them like chips or crackers or crush them more finelyand use them as toppings for ice cream, pudding, and fruit. During the Depressionin the 1930s, crushed cones were a tasty substitute for expensive nut toppings.

As manufacturers' volumes have increased and crushed cones have become lessdesired by the public, cone makers have found another use for discarded cones. Thecones are ground up and sold to farmers for animal feed. Paper goods from thepackaging process and wooden pallets for storage are recycled, so the industryproduces virtually no waste.

Safety in the cone factory is also a lesser concern because most processes are fullyautomated. Workers are trained about safety issues related to electrical andmechanical equipment and the heat of the baking ovens. They are also required to



protect the safety of the product and wear clothing, hair covers, and gloves to keepthe cones sanitary.

The FutureThe ice cream cone is such a fixture of worldwide desserts, entertainment,amusement, and relaxation that it is unlikely to fall out of favor. Ice cream and itscone are consumed year-roundwith Americans eating about 23 qt (22 L) perperson a yearalthough summer is certainly the prime season. A mark of theacceptance of the ice cream cone may be its stature as a highly recognizable icon orsymbol. In 1945, the Macy's Thanksgiving Day Parade featured a helium-filledballoon shaped like an triple-scoop ice cream cone. It stood 40 ft (12.2 m) high and16 ft (4.9 m) wide. Hot-air balloon races and festivals have also been treated withscoop-shaped hot-air balloons and cone-shaped baskets. In 1962, the Swedish-born sculptor Claes Oldenburg displayed a Pop-art version of a "Store" filled witheveryday objects that were greatly oversized and made of foam rubber covered withcanvas. Oldenburg chose an enormous ice cream cone to represent American life.

The tried-and-true types of cones are not likely to change. Of course,manufacturers are constantly improving their products, but they stick to thevarieties that are popular with the public. The sugar, waffle, and cake conesperfectly complement the changing flavors within the ice cream world while addingtheir own support, taste, crunch, and sense of tradition.

Where to Learn More

BooksDickson, Paul. The Great American Ice Cream Book. New York: Atheneum, 1972.

Liddell, Caroline, and Robin Weir. Frozen Desserts. New York: St. Martin's Press,1995.

Wardlaw, Lee. We All Scream for Ice Cream. New York: Harper Trophy, Harper-CollinsPublishers, Inc., 2000.

Periodicals



Relatednewspaper,magazine,andtradejournalarticlesfromQuestiaIncludingpressreleases,facts,information,andbiographies

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Gustaitis, Joseph. "Who Invented the Ice Cream Cone?" American History Illustrated23, no. 4, (Summer 1988): 42-45.

OtherDairy Queen Corporation. http://www.dairyqueen.com(http://www.dairyqueen.com) (January 2001).

The Joy Cone Company, Hermitage, PA. http://www.joycone.com(http://www.joycone.com) (January 2001).

GillianS.Holmes



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