i the bmlbek acropolis - unesdoc database | united...

i

MUSEUMS AND MONUMENTS - VI

1 suggestions

i

b

and for the sarrroandings oftbe Bmlbek Acropolis

MUSEUMS AND MONUMENTS - VI

Titles in the same series

I.

11.

111.

IV.

V.

VI.

vrr.

VIII.

Sites & Monuments : problem of today. IOO pp., I I 5 ills., plans, index, 2nd ed. 1953, 12 1/8 x 9 1/4 in. (bilingual).

$3.00 1616 700 fr. The Care of Paintings. 164 .pp., 87 ills., diag., graphs, index. 2nd ed. 1952, 12 118 x 9 1/4ins. (bilingual). $2.25 14/6 700fr. CU~CO: reconstruction of the town and restoration of its monuments, 58 pp., 64 ills. andmaps, 19j2, 12 1/8 x 9 114 ins. (also inFrench and Spanish). $1.50 8/6 400 fr. Saint-Sophia of Ochriah : preservation and restoration of the building and its frescoes. 28 pp., 37 ills. and maps, 1953, 12 1/8 x 9 1/4 ins. (also in French). $1.00 51- 250 fr. Manual qf Travelling Exhibitions. IIZ pp., 18 diags., 70 ills., 1953, 8 112 x 7 ins. (also in French). $1.75 1016 500 fr. Lebanon : suggestions for the plan of Tripoli and for the surroundings of the Baalbek Acropolis. 48 pp., I map, 7 diags., 44 ills., 1954, 12 1/8 x 9 1/4 ins. (also in French). $1.25 716 350 fr. Syria : probhms of preservation and presentation of sites ana' monuments. 52 pp., 61 ills., 3 maps, 1954, 12 1/8 x 9 1/4 ins. (also inFrench).

$1.50 8/6 400 fr. Les techniques de protection des biens culturels en cas de conflit arme'. 222 pp., 112 figs., 117 ills., 1954 (8 1/2 X 7 ins.). $5.50 301- 1.500 fr.

LEBANON SUGGESTIONS FOR THE

PLAN OF TRIPOLI AND FOR THE SURROUNDINGS OF THE BAALBEK ACROPOLIS

REPQR’C OF THE UNESC;O MISSION O F 1 9 ~ 3

P A U L COLLART, HEAD O F MISSlON EMIR MAURlCE C H E H A B A N D A R M A N D O DILLON

U N E S C O

Printed in France CUA.yz.X.6A

C O N T E N T S

7 l7ORli.WORD . . . . . . . . . .

. . . 9 TRIPOLI . . . . . . . . . .

The T o m and iis Historical Development . . . 9

Present state . 9 9 Historical development . . . . .

The Monuments of Tripoli . . . I 3

Military buildings. . . . . . 14 Mosques . . . 1.1

Madrasahs . . . I > Hammams . . . 15

Khans . 1 5 Other buildings . . . . 16

I 3 Christian churches . . . .

Replanning of the Old Toivn . . . . . . 16

The problem of the old town . . . . 16 The character of the old quarters . 18

I 9 Critical study of the 1947 plans for the town Proposed plans for the old town . . . . 21

Consideration of a few specific points . , . . . 22

13ibliogmphy . . . . . . . 2.1

.

BAALBEEC . . . . . . . . 25

. . . . . . 25 T h e Ruins ai Baalbek . . .

Enhancement of the him . . . . . . . . 2r

Sbort Bibliogt-apby . . . . . . .

. . .

29

N O T E ON T H E ILLUSTRATIONS

The plans of Tripoli and Baalbek included in the report, and the architectural surveys reproduced in the plates, were prepared from material supplied by the Lebanese Service of Antiquities. Photographs Nos. 11, 13, 19, 20, 23 and 29 are from the collection of the Lebanese Service of Antiquities; aerial photographs Nos. I, 5 and 38 were

kindly supplied by the Institut FranGais d'Archtologie, Beirut.

F O R E W O R D

II~: task of the mission oi experts set up by Unesco at the request of the Lebanese Government was to study T on the spot:

I. The general situation of the monuments in the town of Tripoli, taking into account both their historical and artistic value and the needs of the expanding modern town.

z. The general steps to be taken to safeguard such of these monuments as it is imperative to preserve or enhance.

3. The work required for the enhancement of the aforesaid monuments.

4. The proposed work for the enhancement of the Baalbek Acropolis.

So far as Tripoli, in particular, was concerned, the Lebanese Directorate of Antiquities thought it necessary to secure an impartial, authoritative opinion. O n the one hand, it was alive to the historical and artistic value of many of the town’s buildings, and to the distinctive character of its bazaars (measures for their preservation had, indeed, already been taken on various occasions). O n the other hand, it was disturbed by the fact that the municipality had adopted and was even beginning to put into effect a plan for the extension of the town; for the*plan would make it most difficult to preserve all the old town’s monuments. The mission consisted of Mr. Paul Collart, Professor at the

Universities of Geneva and Lausanne (Head), Mr. Armando Dillon, Superintendent of Historical Monuments at Palermo, and Emir Maurice Chehab, Director of the Lebanese Service of Antiquities; it carried out eight weeks’ field work at Beirut and Tripoli from mid-April to the end of May, and at Baalbek during the first half of August 1953. The mission received most willing and efficient help from the Service of Antiquities, which immediately prepared for its use files of valuable docu-

ments and secured for it the obliging and able services of Mr. Amine Bezri, architect.

It wishes to express its gratitude for the friendly courtesy shown by Dr. Najib Sadaka, Director-General of the Ministry of Education and the Fine Arts, Sheikh Majid el-Khury, Head of the Ofice of the Administrator of the Moafza of North Lebanon, Mr. Nureddine Salhab, Director of the Moslem Wakfs, Mr. Ashraf Kabbara, Chief Engineer, Head ot the Tech- nical Office of the hlunicipality of Tripoli, and Mr. Mustapha bey Karame, Director of the Municipality of Tripoli. It would also like to convey its special thanks for the valuable

help received in Beirut from Mr. Gabriel Shar, architectural engineer, Head of the Technical Service for Municipalities and Town Planning of the Lebanese Republic, who continually took an active interest in its work, and Mr. Henri Seyrig, Di- rector of the Institut Fransais d’Archkologie, who placed at its disposal the Institute’s library and collection of photographs ; and in Tripoli from Sheikh Kame1 el-Baba, who served as its guide and obtained a mass of useful information for it. And, though Emir Maurice Chehab was himself a member of

the mission, the two foreign members would like to take this opportunity of expressing their appreciation of the welcome he extended to them, his thoughtfulness, and his kind and ever valuable co-operation. As this report deals with very particular problems, the Lebanese Service of Antiquities, which he directs with such enthusiasm and ability, will not often be mentioned in the following pages. At the outset, attention should be drawn to the useful work that this service is doing, and to the success it has achieved in the sphere of archaeological excavations and restoration of monuments and in the organization of the Beirut Museum.

7

TRIPOLI

THE T O W N A N D ITS HISTORICAL DEVELOPMENT

PRESENT STATE

RIPOLI consists of two separate parts-the town proper (al-Madina), by far the larger, and its T harbour (al-Mina), with a vast expanse of gardens in

between. The town, situated some three to four kilometres inland,

spreads unevenly along both banks of the Nahr Abu-Ali (local name of the Nahr Qadisha), at the point where the river flows out into the plain after cutting through the slopes forming the lower spurs of the Lebanon range. On the left side of the deeply embanked river is a hill where stand the ruins of the castle, or Qalaat Sanjil (Saint-Gilles) ; this is the Pilgrimage Mountain of the crusaders, now known as Abu-Samra. At its foot and stretching up the slope are the town’s old quarters with their lively suqs (bazaars) and ancient monuments-khans (caravanserais), hammams (baths), mosques and madrasahs (Mo- hammedan colleges). O n the right bank, which can be reached by two bridges, is another old quarter, backed by the Kubba hillside. The modern town is steadily expanding in all directions

around the old town-up the hills overlooking the town and

over the rear plateaux; along the roads to Beirut and Latakia; over the plain towards the sea, making deep inroads into the garden area and also encroaching on the old quarters. The harbour (al-Mina) occupies a peninsula which is con-

tinued out to sea by a string of islands and rocky islets. Near this point, a sweet water spring mentioned by early Arab authors rises in the sea. There is a breakwater to shelter the harbour, which is mainly used by oil tankers and sponge fish- ers, and a railway runs along the shore. The station is alongside the Lions Tower, an impressive structure standing on the sea front away from the main town. The gardens covering an area of I,IJO hectares on the well-

irrigated coastal plain, have been the amazement of all travellers, so profuse is their growth; they are still as they were described by Nasiri Khusraw in the eleventh century “great plantations of sugar cane and abundance of sweet and bitter orange-trees, banana-trees, lemon-trees and date-palms” . No less striking are the olive groves, sheltering various crops, on the plateau which rises gently inland from the town for some twenty kilometres to the foot of the mountains.

HISTORICAL DEVELOPMENT

Tripoli as we now know it bears the stamp of its historical development. Each period has left its traces in the growth of the town.

ANTIQUITY

The ancient city of Tripoli was on the seashore where the port is now situated. As its Greek name implies, it comprised three

separate quarters, occupied respectively by citizens from Tyre, Sidon and Aradus at the time when it became the seat of a Phoenician confederation under Persian rule in the fourth century D.C. W e thus see that Tripoli was originally a Phoe- nician city built like other trading centres along this coast, on a promontory or an island. But neither the date of its foundation nor its native name are known. Contemporary coins testify to the existence of several places

of worship. But few traces are left of the work of the Seleucids and, later of the Romans, who must have helped to beautify the town. Tripoli does not seem to

9

have been an important centre at that time, for it is seldom mentioned.

ARAB CONQUEST

Tripoli was destroyed by an earthquake in the sixth century A.D. but was rebuilt fairly soon for it put up a stout resis- tance to Muawiya’s army in 63 5 . After being starved out, the inhabitants were withdrawn by sea and a colony of Jews and Persians were brought to the town which was renamed Trabulus (now Tarablus) by the Arabs. Like all Syria, it subsequently came under the rule of the Omayad caliphs, the Abbassid sultans and the Egyptian Fatimids. In the tenth century the Byzantine emperors made several vain attempts. to recapture the city. It became the chief town of a province and remained so until the arrival of the crusaders. During this period Tripoli grew into an active flourishing

city. Its extensive trade with the whole Mediterranean area and the amazing fertility of its gardens were extolled by Arab authors, especially Nasiri Khusraw in 1047. At that time the town had a Shiite population of zo,ooo. It manufactured and exported materials and was also renowned as a centre of learning. Its library, the famous “Palace of Learning”, contained over IOO,OOO volumes but was burnt down when the crusaders seized the town.

CRUSADES

In 1099 Raymond de Saint-Gilles, Count of Toulouse, laid siege to Tripoli. Unable to take the town, he settled some distance from the sea on a hill that was called the Pilgrimage Moun- tain, and died there in 1105 before the end of the siege. It was not until 4 July 1109 that Tripoli was taken, with the help of the Genoese.

After being plundered and burnt and again damaged in 1158, 1170 and 1200 by earthquakes, a rebuilt Tripoli soon recovered its prosperity. After the fall of Jerusalem, it became one of the chief centres of the crusaders, who renamed it Triple. As the seat of a Roman bishopric, it possessed convents, hospitals and churches ; its schools taught philosophy and medi- cine. It carried on a flourishing trade and manufactures, export- ing silk and camlet; in the twelfth century it is reputed to have had 4,000 looms. The castle built in the twelfth century on Pilgrimage Moun-

tain on the site of the Count of Toulouse’s camp, and still bearing in a slightly modified form the name of Saint-Gilles, soon became the centre of a busy, lively district. Churches sprang up at its foot; perhaps even a European residential district. This was the beginning of the modern city which expanded under the impetus of later events. In any case, this is the only district that still has a few remains

of the twelfth- and thirteenth-century Christian monuments referred to in contemporary writings. They might be brief- ly listed as follows: I. Castle: foundations; lower part of the walls and towers of the eastern fasade; inside door; wall and pillar ofthe chapel (No. I).

2. St. John’s Church on Pilgrimage Mountain: lower courses of the walls showing the ground plan, in the Maronite cemetery to the south of the castle (No. 40).

3. Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. Muy, known as St. MaV of the Tower: north door (inside and outside faces) and square tower, all incorporated in the Grand Mosque (No. 2); door and corbel used again for the eastern entrance to the court (ibid.); capitals of columns of the doorway of the al-Qartawiyat madrasah (No. 3) ; perhaps cushioned arch of the al-Shameiyat madrasah (No. za).

4. Carmelite church: nave and aisles incorporated in the Tylan Mosque (No. 31).

5. Latin inscription and carved lintel: at the entrance of the Izz ad-din hammam (No. 11).

6. Pillars and segment of vadt in a narrow street of the lower town.

No. on pfan

I. Castle (Qalaat Sanjil). 2. Grand Mosque. za. Al-Shamsiyat madrasah. 2b. Anonymous madrasah. 3. Al-Qartawiyat madrasah. 4. Al-Nuri hammam. 5. Al-Nuriyat madrasah. 6. Al-Malek al-Nasir madrasah. 7. Al-Khayriyat Hasan madrasah. 8. 9. Al-Tuwayshiyat madrasah.

Oblique arch and vaulted alley.

IO. Al-Sabun khan. I I. Izz ad-din hammam. 12. Al-Khayyitin khan. I 3. Al-Attar mosque.

MONUMENTS O F TRIPOLI

No. on plan

14. 1.5. 16. ‘7. I 8. 19. 20.

21.

22.

22a.

23. 24. 2.5. 26. 27.

Al-Misriyin khan. Al-Qadriyat madrasah. Al-Uwaysiyat mosque. Abd al-Wahed mosque. Al-Zahriyat madrasah. Al-Burtasiyat madrasah. Bakia Ghanem. Al-Haraj suq. Al-Tawbat mosque. Al-Dabbaghin mosquc. Al-Manzil khan. Byzantine relics and multifoil Al-Saqraqiyat madrasah. Al-Khatuniyat madrasah. Arghun Shah mosque.

No. on plan

Al-Tahhim mosque. Al-Muallaq mosque. Khankah. Al-That fountain. Al-Jadid hammam. Tylan mosque. Lions Tower (Burj al-Sibaa). Al-Askar khan. Al-Zurayqiyat madrasah. Al-Ajamiyat madrasah. Al-Rifaiyat madrasah. Al-Umariyat madrasah. Mosque in ruins. Al-Hajeb hammam. St. John’s Church.

IO

@ Plan of Tripoli.

M A M E L U K E S

Saladin, the conqueror of Jerusalem, tried in vain about 1189, to retake Tripoli as well; but another century was to elapse before the town surrendered to the Mameluke sultans who were then endeavouring to free Syria from the Mongols and the crusaders. After the capture of Antioch (May 1268), Bybars laid waste its territory, and the fall of the Krak des Chevaliers (1271) placed it in a precarious position. Tripoli in its turn was attacked by Sultan Qalaun and captured, on 27 April I 289, after 24-days’ siege. The town was once again destroyed and its castle burnt; many of its inhabitants lost their lives. A poem by Gabriel Barkalay, Bishop of Nicosia, describes these happenings in moving terms.

As a safeguard against any possible return of the crusaders, who were then driven back to Cyprus, and perhaps against earthquakes as well, Qalaun had the town rebuilt about three kilometres inland at the foot of the Pilgrimage Mountain. Towers were built along the shore to ward off invaders. Such was the origin of the present town which, though transferred inland, retained its old name on this new site, whilst the Greek name of the port al-Mina (AL~,$JZ) on the site of the old town is now the only reminder of its remote past. The town of Tripoli is thus a creation of the Mameluke

sultans, who made it the chief centre of one of their empire’s provinces. Under their impetus, the town soon recovered its commercial, industrial and cultural prosperity. Religious schools (madrasahs) were founded in large numbers for the spread of Sunnite learning. Contemporary buildings and writings alike testify to its activity and wealth at that time. “It was a flourishing city, with the largest port in Syria; its mosques, baths, bazaars and markets were famous. Its main articles of trade were silk, manufactured in Tripoli itself or the surrounding district, oil, soap and chemicals such as potash, ammonia and soda.” Several decrees were promulgated at this time to grant privileges or lay down regulations for these industries. Hence the most interesting buildings in Tripoli and by far

the most numerous date from this period. They exhibit the distinctive features of Mameluke art and thus make for a uniform style throughout the town. W e have endeavoured to draw up a chronological list of these buildings. Where two dates are given, the second is taken from an Arabic manuscript or inscription, dated according to the Hegira, mentioning an exact date. I. Grand Mosqtle (No. 2). Begun by Sultan Qalaun and completed by his sons Khalil and Nasir: alteration of the door and foundation of the building by Khalil in 1294 (693 A.H.); construction of the arcades of the court by Nasir in I 3 I 5 (71 5 A.H.); Emir Qaratay’s pulpit in October 1326 (726 A.H.).

Founded by Izz ad-din Aibek on 4 April 1298 (697 A.H.). Kurtay chapel in 1338 (738 A.H.).

Founded by Izz add-din Afbek, Governor of Tripoli from 1294 to 1298. Adjoin- ing mausoleum dating from 12 November 1298 (698 A.H.)

4. Al-Hajeb hammam (No. 39). Built by Esendemir in 1301 (701 A.H.).

5. Abd al-iVahed mosqzle (No. 17). Built by Abd al-Wahed al-Miknasi in 13oj-06 (705 A.H.).

They had lasting repercussions on the fate of the town.

’

2. Al-Zwqqiyat madrasah (No. 34).

3. 1x7 ad-dh hammam (No. 11).

6. Castle (No. I). Rebuilt in 1307-08 (707 h.11.) b y Emir

7. Al-Man$Rhan (No. 23). Old inii perhaps dating from

8. Khqriyat Hasan madrasah (No. 7). Founded after 1309. 9. Al-Malak al-Nasir madrasah (No. 6). Built by Nasir Mohammed, son of Qalaun, who died in 1340.

Built by Emir Qaratay, Governor of Tripoli from 1316 to 1326 and in 1332-33. Fifteenth-century decrees engraved on the south wall.

Perhaps built by Nur ad-din about 1333.

Esendemir Kurji, Governor of Tripoli.

Esendemir Kurji, about I 309.

IO. Al-Qartawiyat madrasah (No. 3).

11. Al-Nzlri hammam (No. 4).

12. Al-Nzlriyat madrasah (No. 5). I 3. Tjlan mosqzie (No. 3 I).

As foregoing. Built, together with the adjoining

mausoleum, by Emir Sayf ad-din Tynal al-Nasiri, Governor of Tripoli from 1326 to 1333 and from 1335 to 1340; completed in February-March 1336 (736 A.H.). Pulpit in June-July 1336 (736 A.H.).

14. Harej szlq (No. 21). Probably fourteenth century, but perhaps earlier.

I j . Al-Askr khan (No. 3 j). Fourteenth century. 16. Al-Kh&ja”tfn khan (No. 12). Built by Emir Badr ad-din,

17. Al-Misriyfn khan (No. 14). Built between 1309 and 1356. 18. Al-Shams&t madrasah (No. 24. Mausoleum of Shams

ad-din al-Mawlawi; about I 349. 19. Al-Attar mosqzie (the Perfumer’s mosque, No. 13). Door

and pulpit dating from 1350 (751 A.H.). 20. Al-Saqraqiyat madrasah (No. 2 j), with mausoleum. Built

by Sayf ad-din Aqturaq, Chamberlain of the province of Tripoli, completed in February 13 59 (760 A.H.).

21. Al-Aiami_at madrasah (No. 3 j), with mausoleum. Built by Mohammad al-Sukkar, completed on 22 May 1365 (766 A.H.).

22. Al-Khatzlniyat madrasah (No. 26), with mausoleum. Built by Izz ad-din Aydamur Al-Ashrafi, Governor of Tripoli, and by his wife Arghun, in 1373-74 (775 A.H.).

Built by Isa, the son of Umar al-Burtasi, before the end of the Bahrite period, i.e. prior to I 3 81. According to a manuscript by an Egyp- tian author, to which our attention was drawn by Mr. K. Maaz, Umar al-Burtasi is said to have died in I 324 (72 5 A.H.)

24. Anoymozls madrasah (No. 2b), with mausoleum, beside the Grand Mosque. Beginning ofthe Burjite period, i.e. after I 3 8 2.

2 5 . Al-Zahiriyat madrasah (No. IS), with mausoleum. Built by Emir Sayf ad-din Taghri Baramshi al-Zahiri for his two sons, completed on 7 October 1396 (799 A.H.).

who died in I 341.

23. Al-Btlrtasiyat madrasah (NO. 19).

26. Al-Tfnatfozlntain (No. 29b), built in 1413 (816 A.H.). 27. Lions tower (Burj al-Sibaa, No. 3 2).

28. Uwayiyat mosqtle (No. 16).

Built over the remains of an older tower by Emir JulbAn, in 1441-42 (845 A.H.).

Built about 1461 by Abd al- Hay al-Uwaysi; minaret dating from the Ottoman period; adjoining mausoleum dating from I 62 I.

29. Al-RifaQat madrasah (No. 36), prior to 1465. 30. Al-Urnarbat madrasah (No. 37), completed on 19 Feb-

31. Khankah (home for the aged, No. 29a), behind the Al-

32. Al-Tzlwayshiyt madrasah (No. 9). Built by Sayf ad-din

3 3. Al-Qadriyat madrasah (No. I I), built about 1471. 34. Arghtln Shah mosqtle (No. 27), prior to 1477. 3 5. Al-Dabbaghh mospe (the Tanners’ mosque, No. 22a).

ruary 1466 (870 A.H.); now in ruins.

Muallaq mosque.

al-Tuwayshi about I 47 I.

Perhaps built in 1467.

Prior to 1477; restored in 1j08 (913 A.H.).

0 T T 0 M A N S

After the conquest of Syria by the Ottoman Sultan Selim I, in August I 5 16, Tripoli was attached to the vilayet of Damascus; but in I J Z I it once again became the chief town of a province under Suleiman the Magnificent. It was one of the commercial ports of the Levant. Early in the seventeenth century, members of the Sayfa family, notably Emir Yusef and his son Emir Husein, were governors of the city. It was later ruled by Emir Fakhr ad-din I1 maan, who was executed by the Turks in 163 5. Members of the Azem family from Damascus were among the pashas governing Tripoli early in the eighteenth century. These rulers built several of the monuments in Tripoli dating

from the Ottoman period. They may be listed as follows: I. Castle (No. I). Restored by Sultan Suleiman in July 1521 (927 A.H.), and restored on several further occasions until the nineteenth century.

Built by Mahmud, the son of Iutfi, under the reign of Suleiman, and completed in December I 5 5 9 (967 A.H.).

3. Al-Tabhdm nzosqzle (No. 28), built by Emir Yunes about 1600. 4. AZ-Sabw khan (soap storehouse, No. IO), built early in the

seventeenth century by Yusef Pasha Sayfa to serve as bar- racks.

Re- built by Husein Pasha, the son of Yusef, after the great flood of 20 January 1612, and completed in June the same year (1021 A.H.).

6. AI-JadZd hammam (No. 30), built by Asad Pasha al-Azem about I 740.

7. Bags GhaHem (NG. zo), with eighteenth-century sculptured decoration.

2. Al-Mtlallag mo s p e (hanging mosque, No. 29).

5. Al-Tawbat mosqzle (Mosque of Repentance, No. 22).

MODERN TRIPOLI

As the second city of the Lebanese Republic, Tripoli today en- joys great prosperity, due to its thriving industry and trade and to the fertility of its soil. As yet, the tourist trade has con- tributed little to this development.

Large crops of fruit (oranges, lemons and bananas) are still produced along the coast and quantities of olive oil on the plateau. The manufacture of soap carries on a long tradition. On the other hand, sericulture, which was once the leading industry, has almost completely died out, and has been replaced by cotton spinning and weaving. Other recently introduced industries are steadily expanding-hydro-electric works on the Nahr Qadisha above the town; a cement factory at Shakka; and, to the north, refineries to treat the crude oil brought to the coast by the pipe-line from Iraq. This pipe-line, and the railway as well, use the gap in the

Lebanon range, which has from time immemorial made Tri- poli the natural seaport for central Syria and Iraq. This accounts for much of the trade in its harbour which, in 1939, was equal to that in Beirut, whlst transit traffic was even hea- vier than in Beirut. The following figures may be given for the traffic in the harbour over the past few years:

Oil tankers Cargo-boats

218

181 202

406 5 70 5 59

The steady increase in economic activity is matched by an increase in the population, which has trebled in 30 years: in 1922, 36,000 inhabitants; in 1943, 80,000 inhabitants; in 195 2, IIO,OOO inhabitants. This is the reason for the swift expansion of the town, which

is at the root of the problem under consideration. New thoroughfares have been cut through built-up areas or laid through the gardens on the plain and the flat terraces of the hills. They are an inducement to the construction of new buildings for business or residential purposes. They carry the ever-increasing flow of traffic necessitated by the expansion of the built- up area and the growth of the population. Does this mean that the sacrifice of the old town and of its

historic monuments to the needs of modern life is now inevi- table? Or can these requirements be met while still preserving the distinctive features of the old quarters and the historic setting of their buildings? Careful study of these buildings and a fair assessment of their value and their importance to the city as a whole would seem necessary before this question can be dealt with.

THE MONUMENTS O F TRIPOLI

The majority of Tripoli's historical monuments are in the old city, of which they form an integral part. However, some are outside, standing alone on the hill or in the open country. In the preceding chapter they were grouped according to

period; we now propose to give a very brief assessment of their value, grouping them according to category.

C H R I S T I A N C H U R C H E S

There are few Christian relics from the time of the crusaders, and most of them have been incorporated in more recent Mos- lem buildings. C. Enlart has compiled a list of such remains, which it is unnecessary to reproduce here.

Some parts of St. Mary’s Cathedral were used again at the end of the thirteenth century in the buildings of the Grand Mosque (No. z), but a more interesting relic is the large Carmelite cburcb, which 30 years later was incorporated in the Tylan moqztz (No. 31). Whilst the beautiful doors and square tower of St. Mary’s Cathedral can still be admired, they are isolated features that had no influence on the structure of the Moslem monument and it is impossible today to make out the ground plan of the Christian church. O n the other hand, the far less evident traces of the original Carmelite’church had a decisive influence on the planning of the Tylan mosque and account for its highly original design, which is one reason why this mosque is among the most interesting of Tripoli’s monuments. Special mention should also be made of the recent discovery

of the foundations of a church in the Maronite cemetery, on the hill to the south of the castle. These are undoubtedly the remains of St. John’s Cburcb on Pikrimage Mountain (No. 40), which some experts had previously thought might be the actual chapel of the castle. The church, with its slightly horseshoe- shaped apse and single nave, had a chapel on its right; it was perhaps preceded by an atrium.

MILITARY BUILDINGS

The walls and towers of the Castle (No. I), whose imposing ruins stand on the hill overlooking the town on one side and the river on the other, are undoubtedly the most spectacular remains of old Tripoli. The castle is somewhat dwarfed today by the tall houses that have been allowed to be built in its neighbourhood. The beauty and archaeological interest of the monument fall far short of any expectations based on the historical and poetic memories attaching to it; the “romance” has been obliterated by the fundamental changes which the castle has undergone in the course of time and by thenineteenth- century Turkish additions which clutter its interior. Exten- sive restoration and consolidation work would be required to recreate its original grandeur. O n the other hand, the Lions tower (No. 32) on the seashore

is certainly the finest example of military architecture along the whole coast. This massive, isolated block gives a tremendous impression of power. And on drawing nearer, we can admire the stone courses of alternating colours at the doorway, the parpens reinforcing its walls and the skilful interior vaulting. Another noteworthy feature is the dressing of the stones in the staircase, built in the thickness of the outer wall, and in a recess on the upper storey, reminiscent of the technique used in northern Syria. The architecture and size of the tower distinguish it from other defensive buildings erected by the Arabs along the coast in the fourteenth century to ward off any landing by the crusaders. Conflicting opinions have been expressed regarding its date. J. Sauvaget recently placed it in the last quarter of the fifteenth century; but, according to an unpublished manuscript sold by Sheikh Kame1 al-Baba to the Library of Damascus, the tower was built by Emir Julbdn in 1441-42 (845 A.H.) on the remains of an older tower. An- other question for archaeologists is to decide what traces of the original building survive in this reconstruction. In his excellent book Le Crac des Chevaliers, P. Deschamps wisely draws attention to the difficulties of such a study, which must be

based on purely architectural criteria. Close observation of the fasades, of varying architectural composition, also reveals considerable differences in dressing technique. The building forms and methods are comparable with certain parts of the castle at Tripoli, the Krak, the Safitah keep and the external and internal structure of the Arab citadel at Bosra.

MOSQUES

Tripoli’s mosques date from different periods and are of varying interest. The Grand Mosque (No. z), which is the largest and oldest of

all, is by no means the most interesting today. Despite its vast court, enclosed by vaulted arcades, the novel shape of the minaret, which preserves the square plan of the old belfry, the size of the prayer room, the central part of which is cover- ed by a dome rising above rounded corners, this building makes no better an impression today than it did 60 years ago, when it was visited by M. van Berchem and Ed. Fatio, who gave its plan and described it in detail. “Its general appearance is cold and ungra~eful’~, they wrote, “and its squatness is accen- tuated by the whitewash on all the walls.” However, skilful restoration might possibly improve the appearance of this building, by stressing the oldest parts, some of which are still visible today but coated with plaster and paint (e.g. the two doorways of the courtyard and the two lower storeys of the minaret), while others can only be conjectured (e.g. the south wall of the prayer room). It would also be desirable to remove the unsightly addition to the aedicule over the north doorway, on the courtyard side, and to change the colour of the recently painted minaret to make it tone with the rest of the building. Of the Mameluke mosques in the old town, noteworthy

features are the novel structure of the domes supported on double drums and the simple polygonal minaret of the Al- IVahed mosqHe (No. 17), the stalactite doorway and the high square minaret of the Al-Attar mosque (No. IS), the bold span of the vast dome of the Al-Uways9at mosque (No. 16), and the elegant minaret of the Arghun Sbab mosque (No. 27). Of greater beauty and interest, however, is the Tylan mosque

(No. 31), outside the walls, with its splendid multi-coloured floor, great inside door set with alternating black and white stone, and mibrab, the striking design of its minaret with a double staircase, and the widely varying size and structure of its many domes. It is an outstanding monument, which should be better protected against the ravages of time and the damage that it may suffer from the I j o or so Palestine refugees who have sheltered there for the past four years. The three Ottoman mosques-Al-Muallaq (No. z9), Al-

TahbBm (No. 28) and Al-Tawbat (No. zz)-though they have no features of comparable interest, are yet worth a visit, for they have the pleasing, natural charm, the brightness and the delicate refinement that are characteristic of that period. Particularly noteworthy are the setting of the first-named mosque above street level, the handsome minaret of the second, and the graceful miniature domes above the vestibules of the third. But the old town of Tripoli owes its distinctive character

and architectural unity rather to the old madrasahs, converted into mosques, than to the mosques themselves.

MADRASAHS

The great number of madrasahs in Tripoli may be attributed to the concern of the Mamelukes, when rebuilding the town, to revive the orthodox Sunnite form of Mohammedanism. Besides the religious schools built by the governors, there were many privately founded pious foundations in which the classroom adjoined the founder’s tomb. Madrasahs of the first kind may be as large as a mosque, to which they are similar in all essentials: those of the second kind often have numerous small rooms about the tomb. Most of Tripoli’s madrasahs were built in the fourteenth

century and some in the first three-quarters of the fifteenth; they show the special features of Mameluke architecture in the decoration of the doorways with their alveolated arches, of the fasades and inlaid lintels, and in the widely varying design of different parts of domes and minarets; but at the same time, their architecture is so diverse and original as to defy attri- bution to the exclusive influence of any particular school. O n entering the light, spacious Al-Qartawbat madrasah

(No. 3) adjoining the Grand Mosque, and the Al-BztrtasQat madrasah (No. 19) near the old bridge, the first impression gained is one of quiet harmony and a fine sense of proportion. The many windows in the domes let in a flood of light and foreshadow the styles current in the Ottoman period. In the al-Qartiwiyat madrasah the visitor will note the delicate decoration of the mihrab and of the whole south interior wall, with marble inlaid in linear designs; the studied elegance of the porch ceiling with its alveolate and stalactite decoration; the eIaborate ornamentation of the lintels with their panels carved in deeply cut geometric designs, their Koranic inscrip- tions, the complicated inlaid work of their white marble and coloured keystones; and above all the elegant design of the fasade with alternating black and white stone courses, its fine doorway and its small stone cloister windows. The refinement of the design and decoration is here matched by the care taken in dressing the stones. Turning to the al-Burta- siyat madrasah, the visitor is immediately struck by its picturesque setting by the river. Its great stark fasade above the water, its square minaret and the unadorned profile of its domes give it an air of rustic simplicity. But a glance at the complex stalactites and the elaborate lintel of its doorway, at the rich marquetry of the mihrab or the alveolate decoration of the pendentives in the prayer room, will reveal that love of detail and ornament so characteristic of this period. This is more obvious in the smaller funerary madrasahs-in

the neighbourhood of the Grand Mosque, the Al-Khdyrbat- Hasan (No. 7), AbMalek al-Nasir (No. 6), the anoymous (No. 2b), Al-Narbat (No. j) and Al-Thv~zyshiyat (No. 9); to the west of the town, the Al-Saqraqbat (No. 21) and Al- Khatztni_yat (No. 26); in the centre, the Al-Qadr@at (No. 1)) and Al-Zahirbat (No. 18); and on the right bank, the Al- Zztrqqbat madrasah (No. 34). In these buildings, maximum effect is obtained with alternating black and white courses in a fasade, or alveolated doors, the skilful structure of a dome or its ribbed exterior, or the fine filigree of a stucco panel or a carved inscription. The visitor is struck by the variety of architectural and decorative devices adopted for transition from the rectangular or square to the polygonal (for the drums), and then to the circular (for the domes); arches, alveolated structures, shell-shaped or foiled recesses, painted and stucco decorations all make their contribution to the harmonious effect of the whole. And on the fasades, the cornices are de-

signed in various ways to frame doorways and windows-with zigzag, interlace, palmettos and various other mouldings so as to emphasize their design and structure. These details may be overlooked by the hurried tourist, but they will hold the interest of those who seek really to know the town and to analyse its peculiar charm and character.

$1 A M M A M S

In Eastern cities, the building of public baths is not regarded as a luxury, but as essential for well-being and hygiene. In the twelfth century, Damascus possessed 5 2 public bathing establishments. A few years after its transfer to the present site, Tripoli already had two baths, one on either side of the river, built by two of its first Mameluke governors. A third was added less than half a century later. And as late as the eighteenth century, Asad al-Azem, pasha of Tripoli, regarded a new bath as the most useful and acceptable gift he could present to the citizens of the town. Though little remains of the Al-Hqeb hamnzanz (No. 39),

built in 1301 near the river by Emir Essendemir Kurji, the I?? ad-d2n hanzmam (No. I I), presented to Tripoli by the governor after whom it was named and who was buried there in 1298, and the Al-Nwi hammam (No. 4), built about 1 3 3 3 in the vicihity of the Grand Mosque, are both still in use today. This of course is the best way of keeping them in repair.

Going through the rooms, each one hotter than the last, where the bathers come, both for purposes of hygiene and for pleasant relaxation, the visitor can admire the skilfully stag- gered partitions and the wide diversity of the domes arranged with lavish imagination to cover the common rooms, private rooms and passages of varying shape and size. To prevent any loss of heat, these domes have no openings; the light enters through glass roundels let into the vaults. Equally pleasing, viewed from above, is the exterior of the domes, with their countless little glass eyes. The al-Nuri hammam has a particularly large hot room surrounded by a whole series of private baths (maqsura), while the warm room between the hot room and the dressing room is very small in comparison. O n the other hand, the Izz ad-din hammam has a more regular plan, and the warm room with its subsidiary rooms is just as large as the hot room. The AI-Jad2d hammanz (No. 30), built at the south entrance

of the town about 1740, has the same features with the addi- tional amenities of a period that set store by picturesqueness and originality of detail. Worthy of note are the extraordinary variety in the structure and decoration of its numerous domes and, from the outside, its doorway, at the top of which a bell uscd to hang on a chain. It is a pity that today this fine building is abandoned; it would be worth restoring for use. Tripoli’s buildings could furnish material for an interesting

study on domes; for this the hammams would afford more instances than any other kind of building.

KHANS

The khans, all of which are in the business centre, bring vivid- ly to mind the economic life of the old city. As caravan-

serais or storehouses, they were an essential counterpart to the suqs, which depended on them for their existence. Sever- al of them have retained this function to the present day. The Ai-ManTil k$an (No. 23) on the right bank was once

an inn. With two neighbouring buildings of the same date- the al-Hajeb hammam and the al-Zurayqiyat madrasah-it shows the vitality of this important quarter from the earliest days of the Mameluke town. The only surviving relic of its past glory is the fine fasade, with its carved door and window architraves. The character and function of this building remind us of the relations between Tripoli and Aleppo. In style and technique it resembles the al-Qartawiyat madrasah, whose doorway has similarly placed keystones, whilst the groins have the same pointed and zigzag decoration. The small recessed windows are ornamented with foiled arches-an effect obtained by skilful dressing of the stones in the traditional North Syrian style.

Near the northern entrance to the suqs, the old Al-Haraj sag (No. ZI), with its shady arcades supported by massive columns, is still, despite the rather clumsy repairs done to it, one of the most original architectural units in the old town. Some experts ascribe it to the fourteenth century, whilst others do not rule out the possibility of its being a Western European relic of the crusade period. The nearby Al-Khayydth khm (No. 12), with its high roof

resting on transverse arches, has all the characteristics of a sui. It is extremely picturesque. For 600 years, tailors have worked in the shops above its arcades, and it is as lively as ever.

Visitors will observe the arrangement of the upper-storey rooms and the structure of the corridors and staircases. The Al-As&r &un (No. 33), the Al-Miriyan khan (No. 14)

and the Al-Subzln khun (No. IO), still used today as storehouses, are of a more common type with a rectangular courtyard enclosed by two-storeyed vaulted arcades. The al-Askar and al-Miriyan khans date from the fourteenth century. The more recently built al-Sabun khan, still used for the storage of soap, stands as a symbol of the undying vitality of an old local industry; the courtyard with its trees and ornamental water affords an interesting example of the pleasing effect produced by a well laid out green space in the very heart of the suqs.

OTHER BUILDINGS

Mention should also be made of the fine arcades in the courtyard of the Khanhh or Home for the Aged (No. 29b) and in the building known as Bakiu Ghunem (No. 20). Lastly, we should not overlook the great number of old

houses which, though lacking the same historical interest, are, together with the buildings mentioned above, a factor in the distinctive character of the old town of Tripoli, which in our opinion should be preserved intact.

REPLANNING O F THE OLD T O W N

THE PROBLEM OF THE OLD T O W N

Today, as at any other period, the rebuilding and expansion of towns are governed by political, economic and social considerations. Communications, transport and the industrial and commercial organization are determining factors. Town- planning is the science and art of organizing a modern town, with special regard to the probable course of its development. Complex problems must be faced when the town already

has its own organic structure, shaped both by geographic factors and by its history. The town then forms one complete entity; unattractive as some of its districts may be, it is ill adapted to the changes required to meet the needs of an expanding town and new interests. Sometimes a new town may have sprung up alongside the

old town like a separate unit, with new buildings designed for public services and self-contained residential districts. In these cases no strain is brought to bear on the old core, where such works as are opportune may be carried out, with due regard to the original character; for instance, the partial demolition of insanitary houses and the creation of open spaces and gardens.

In this post-war period, Tripoli, like Beirut, has been in urgent need of extension and replanning, so as to be able to cope with its new responsibilities deriving from political and commercial factors and the growth of population. In 30 years its population has trebled, and trade, which for a while was slowed down by the war, is increasing daily. Modern buildings, offices, industries and hotels have sprung up within the old city area and in the ring of new districts.. New services are being superimposed upon existing services, or are taking their place. The new houses and streets are admirably suited to traffic requirements and to the needs of ’ the general population; but, naturally, they are often out of harmony with the previous style of the town. The contrast is startling if w e think of the steep, narrow, winding old streets. When the new districts with their independent services

spring up in completely new sectors where there have previously been no streets, houses or public services, the techni- cians may be able to work out satisfactory schemes, as can be seen both in Beirut and in Tripoli. But the government and technical services cannot always deal so effectively with the old centres, where private initiative has been allowed free rein and there is already a built-up area. It often happens that an old

Diagrammatic plan of Tripoli with proposed alterations.

quarter has developed into an architectural whole with a character of it own; admittedly, its structure and appearance may be improved upon, but it is liable to be marred or destroyed by any drastic changes. Tripoli, which since the time of the crusades has consisted

of three separate centres, one of them-al-Mina (the harbour)- being some distance from the rest, afforded an opportunity for government services to carry through a carefully thought-out extension plan in the area between the sea and the old quarters ; the wide modern thoroughfares planned for this area-and mostly laid down-are in every respect worthy of a great city. But widespread private initiative has resulted in a piecemeal approach to the same problems in the case of the modern buildings that have sprung up in the vicinity of the castle and on the pleasant hill rising to the east of the river. Many difficulties have cropped up there in connexion with public services and communications. Plans for remodelling the old town, drawn up in 1947, pro-

vided, as a logical consequence of the present situation, for the old streets to be widened and for the buildings on either side to be pulled down. But many of these buildings are of genuine historical and architectural interest. The municipal authorities which had approved the plans were in difficulty when it came to carrying them out, as the buildings in question were protected by the Service of Antiquities and their preservation raised various problems. In the circumstances, it was felt necessary to assess the value of each individual monument and to work out the exact criteria to be adopted and the instructions to be issued if the plans were to be carried into effect with due regard to the scientific and moral importance of preserving the monuments. Meanwhile, the worst drawbacks were mitigated and the

most urgent traffic needs met by opening a new thoroughfare to the south of the Grand Mosque and by building a few short streets to provide an approach to the houses in its neighbourhood. The work already carried out reveals the full extent of the

difficulties involved in the replanning of the old quarters, and the practical, aesthetic and economic problems that have to be faced. The Unesco mission was thus able to assess both the value and architectural interest of the old city and the effects of carrying out the proposed plan. It was obvious at once that the application of this plan would

settle only a few of the technical and housing problems involved in the replanning of the old town, and that, even so, a number of sometimes unsatisfactory compromises would have to be made. This naturally led to an inquiry into the intrinsic value of a monument or street, the preservation of which was a bar to the preparation to a more effective, rational and comprehensive plan. Widening of the old streets and suqs is an unsatisfactory way

of dealing with the practical and aesthetic problems, for demolition of the buildings on either side would result in building blocks being of irregular size and reduced in area, while some would still remain occupied by uninteresting buildings. An- other question that arises is the restoration and adaptation of the buildings that would thus be partly destroyed and left in isolation. The Unesco mission has the responsibility of weigh- ing up the various arguments for the preservation or destruction of the old parts of the town. For this purpose it is necessary to explain the character of the quarters affected, their intrinsic value, their peculiar features and their right to survival after due account is taken of the requirements of a modern city and its population.

THE CHARACTER O F THE O L D QUARTERS

Travellers and scientists who have visited Tripoli have remark- ed on the peculiarly Oriental fascination of its narrow streets teeming with life, of its historic buildings set among houses and shops in an amazing tangle of arcades, vaults, projections, domes and minarets. Apart from their picturesqueness and their traditional at-

mosphere-not to be equated with disorder and neglect, as undesirable characteristics that must be done away with-the old streets of Tripoli still have the vitality of a body that has not outlived its usefulness, even amid the demands of a modern city. All the buildings and bazaars in the old city form a single unit, the several parts of which have a vital link with one another. The architecture of the houses and public buildings is the simple, natural reflection of this unit’s character. The bazaars, set among houses, mosques, khans, hammams and madrasahs, might be compared to the arteries and veins of a living body; time and use have made them throb with a life that gives some inner meaning to every corner, every view. They are inseparably linked with the motley-dressed crowd and the shops crammed with wares. These are not streets in the modern sense of the word: nowadays, in the new districts, the street is public property; at the same time, it is necessary to all the houses on either side. But here, the street is hewn, as it were, from the substance of the architecture itself. Making one’s way through the suqs is like joining a natural process of ebb and flow, drifting with a current, walking’through the very buildings. Every projection, every corner has a build and air of its own. Yet one can pass repeatedly along the same stretch of road, or walk round and round the same khan-quite unaware that one is doing so. Merely to turn back is to have the impression of seeing something fresh, as though peering at the ever-changing forms and colours of the patterns in a kaleidoscope. In the maze of streets which seem to put out fresh tentacles, intertwining to lead us, astray, the monumental doorway of a mosque or madrasah, the lofty pinnacle of a minaret, or a glimpse of some dome or khan, serves as a reassuring landmark. Noble traditions and jealously-guarded privacy, mystifi-

cation and mischief, the history of the past and the events of the present, all combine to build up this general impression. Every window is guarded by a grating of hand-turned wooden bars, by shutters or by trellis-work; but every house has a mouch- araby in its lace-work of masonry, through which the occu- pants, themselves unseen, can look out into the street. The houses are built in accordance with the dual tradition of the East, which is based on the use of either wood or stone. Some of them have projecting beams, which act as supports for over- hanging portions, balconies, eaves or cornices; their beams are almost always carved, decorated with open-work patterns, or scallops. Every technical resource of this kind is brought to bear in the stone buildings, with their arcades, vaults and corbels, grouped-regardless of the direction of the street- with the aim of solving some particular structural problem. This is one of the most striking characteristics of the local architecture. The street runs through arcades and vaults, squeezes between the stalls, and follows a course which seems as wayward and haphazard as that of a river. But above and to either side of it, the houses cling and cluster in obedience to a law of their own, with the help of projections and corbels, arcades that run askew and vaults that are sliced in half. Some

difficulties have been overcome in a way so natural as to seem quite spontaneous; they give a clearer idea of the ingenuity of the local builders and their architectural traditions than could be gained from public buildings or monuments. In the latter any novel ideas expressed in the construction or decoration of a dome, minaret or doorway were worked out by the architect as part and parcel of his original plan-whereas the builders responsible for the whimsical network of houses and streets appear of their own accord to have solved their problems of construction and space. All big modern towns now have their “stores”-great

complex buildings which, like the khans and caravanserais of former times, are planned to include large warehouses, and where goods of every type can be found. To a visitor, the old town of Tripoli looks like one enormous store, with its different departments for produce and manufactured articles, handi- crafts and business negotiations. It is a delight to stroll through the suqs, sheltered from sun and rain, wind and dust, admiring the wide range of goods on sale, from costly jewellery offered by the goldsmiths, deep-piled carpets and an endless variety of multicoloured textiles, to fruit and vegetables, stews and sweetmeats. The visitor has the same pleasure here that he feels in wan-

dering through the by-streets and mercerie of Venice or the old parts of Vienna, Paris or Florence. Leaving the wide streets where the traffic is controlled by police and signals, to plunge into the old districts where modern vehicles cannot penetrate, he feels relaxed and rested. Here he can walk without fatigue, without the need for constant attentiveness, without hearing the tiresome motor horns. Sound, colour and light filter pleasantly through the wide shadows cast by the fabrics hung like awnings across the streets from the vaults and eaves.

The trade fairs and exhibitions held in our big modern cities strain to recapture what w e find as the everyday atmosphere in the narrow streets of ancient Tripoli. Side by side with the articles displayed for sale w e see the machines used in making them, the craftsman with his tools, the cook and the pastry-maker busy at their tables and stoves. Work, here, is in itself a cause of happiness and emulation; a sale is like a reward, acknowledgement of the value of the creative effort. A fine example is offered of participation in productive work-something that modern conditions are gradually killing, together with many moral, educational and spiritual values that go with it.

CRlTlCAL STUDY O F THE 1947 PLANS F O R THE T O W N

If the old city is to be replanned, brought into harmony and contact with the new sectors; if its various quarters are to be improved by restoration of their buildings and streets, the living, positive values which make up its present character must be carefully borne in mind. According to the plan drawn up in 1947 and lodged with

the municipality, the desired ends are to be achieved by a systematic widening of the existing thoroughfares. The programme urges the opening, all over the city, of wide streets bordered by new buildings. This would entail the partial demolition of a number of historical monuments. The suggestion is that these could be restored in such a way as to re- establish their value, patch up the injuries done, round off the amputated parts and hide the mutilations behind new frontages.

Castle viewed from the east, with n e w roads.

45

40

(28.50 ) 25

20

The advantages of this plan have already been mentioned; but its numerous drawbacks should be pointed out as well. To begin with, from the hygienic and economic point of

view, it must be realized that while the frontages of the existing buildings would have to be pulled down to bring them into alignment along the new roads, no demolitions need neces- sarily take place further back, although it is there that cleaning- up operations are most urgently needed. It would be like “repairing” a fine but worm-eaten piece of old furniture by taking off the beautifully wrought surface-leaving the spongy layer beneath untouched-and replacing it by a plywood facing laid on in the modern manner. The restoration of works of art is usually handled in exactly the opposite way; the damaged inner portion is replaced, but the surface, worked upon by the artist and mellowed by time, is carefully preserved. Defects, like illnesses, must be got rid of by every possible treat- ment, but not by killing the patient. To put up new buildings in an old town is rather like allowing a malignant growth to develop in a body which, in the course of time, has achieved a functional balance of its own. From the aesthetic standpoint, too, the introduction of

modem building methods in the old parts of the city would give rise to serious objections. A house four or five storeys high is calculated to dwarf the domes of a mosque or madrasah, to destroy the architectural value of a minaret or a doorway. What is more, its horizontal lines and wide openings, its deep- set balconies with their prismatic forms and bright colours, will be entirely out of keeping witl; the existing structures, which are simple, dark-coloured, of harmonious proportions and adapted to their surroundings and to the climate. There is a sense of intimacy and retirement about the old style of architecture. It engenders no desire to take part in the life

of the streets outside. The street washes its walls like a river, sometimes swift and turbulent, sometimes calm. But the family lives inside the house, meeting in the courtyard, beneath a tree or beside a fountain. Modern architecture, on the con- trary, is open to the street, sharing its life, its light and atmosphere, and its noise and dust as well. When a whole district is planned in the modern style, it acquires a certain unity, a certain character, it can have a beauty and harmony of its own. But it would be exceedingly difficult to construct anything aesthetically and economically satisfying in the miserable, irregular spaces that might be cleared by the suggested demolitions in the heart of the old town. As some examples already go to prove, a crop of uninteresting but pretentious buildings would spring up, carried, for financial reasons, to a height entirely out of proportion with their surroundings, and the old charm would be completely destroyed. The beauty, the interest, the personality of an old house may not, of course, be apparent to all and sundry; and this accounts for certain efforts at modernization, the choice of certain colours, and the neglect into which such buildings too often fall. But the skilful restoration of a few of them would probably be enough to guide building enterprises as a whole in a more promising direction. The replanning of monuments, too, would have drawbacks

from the aesthetic point of view. The monuments in the old town are an integral part of their setting, for none of them was planned and built to stand alone-as was, in our time, the clock tower in the modern centre of Tripoli. Domes and minarets rise up amidst the surrounding buildings like palm- trees pointing skywards. It is true that in some cases the fa- Fade of a mosque-that of al-Tahhim, for instance-has become cluttered with haphazard, utilitarian erections; these

20

Profile of proposed street with view of monuments.

A

35.60 30.53 22.16

should be cleared away, and the damage resulting from spe- culation and private interests repaired. But it can never be desirable to eliminate or modify the work of time by paring away the evidence of a monument’s past history or making inroads upon its structure. Moreover, any attempt to restore unity by reintegrating the altered or mutilated portions would, in this particular case, give rise to practical and artistic problems which it would be almost impossible to solve, since, as has already been said, the interest of these monuments lies chiefly in the fact that they form part of an architectural and historical complex with its own individual character and unity. To protect works of art, to restore and preserve them, is

not merely a matter of practical convenience, but a moral duty. To show respect for the spiritual values of which they are the embodiment is the most effective means of educating the general public, whereas to neglect them is, in some sort, a denial of what our ancestors have handed down to us. There are many cases in which a monument of great archi-

tectural value plays a part in our individual lives-reminding us of the splendour of the past, arousing our wonder and interest by its artistic and historical significance, by the opu- lence and magnificence to which it bears witness. An old quarter, regarded as an architectural unit, has a deeper though less obvious significance. It forms part of our day-to-day life, is the expression of our needs and our habits. It is a matter of pride to its whole population that it is preserved and kept in good repair, or that the damage caused by time, pov- erty or lack of appreciation is gradually remedied. This should be the purpose of restoration, improvement and development, which should not encourage destruction or minister to the new tyranny of speed, motorization, mass production and publicity.

Another drawback, from the aesthetic point of view, would be the loss of the picturesque atmosphere created in the suqs by the nature of their trade, by colour and Eastern dress. It is not our intention here to defend at all costs the preservation of local colour, solely as an attraction for tourists. W e would merely point out that the tourist trade may also be useful if it serves as an inducement to improve and clear up the old quarters and to do away with the results of neglect, ignorance and bad taste. When replanning is undertaken, the wish to preserve an architectural setting may also result in preserving a picturesque atmosphere which need not be merely superficial, but may give genuine expression to the feelings and lives, to the background, traditions, customs and tastes of a whole nation.

P R O P O S E D P L A N S F O R THE O L D TOWN

The city of Tripoli, which now looks seawards, with its fine thoroughfares and modern houses, could easily preserve intact its ancient centre, its suqs, mosques, madrasahs and khans. To devise a scheme for replanning, improving and restoring this cluster of related monuments is not to endanger, but to safeguard it. Such a plan should be drawn up and adopted in the light of the interests of the district itself, without regard to the demands of life and traffic in the other sectors. It should provide for some demolition within the blocks of buildings, so as to achieve something more than a merely superficial clearing-up, by creating open spaces, squares and

21

gardens-to act as extra lungs-like those already existing in the neighbourhood of the al-TahhAm mosque and Haddad madrasah. The plan shows which houses are regarded as worthy of preservation, and consequently of restoration, and the uninteresting nondescript areas where demolition and replanning would be possible and even desirable. The restoration of a few houses and public buildings, if

carried out with tact and common sense, might enhance the interest of the old town to an unforeseeable and surprising extent. Only those who are trained by long habit to judge the intrinsic value of a work of art by discounting the dete- rioration it has suffered at the hands of man and through the action of time, can imagine what a joy to the eye a well- restored monument may become. W e hope that appropriate legislation, based on a plan taking account of the general interest, may lead to the reorganization of the old city in the form that suggested itself tentatively to us after a careful inspection of the area. The question of repairing the pillared arcades of the ancient

al-Haraj suq and of restoring the al-Sabun khan and the al- Khayy2tin khan is, in itself, of sufficient importance to warrant government action. If some madrasahs were restored to the social and cultural functions for which they were intended, and a few mosques at present occupied by refugees were repaired, they would serve as models for the restoration of other monuments, which are at present hidden by a coat of wnite- wash or paint and unsuitably furnished. The aesthetic value of well-dressed stonework, doorways and various decorative features cannot at present be appreciated, owing to the way in which they have been daubed over. Happily, however, the monuments-their walls, vaulting and domes-seem to be structurally sound. A programme of restoration would thus give very satisfactory results for comparatively small expenditure. What would be needed, in the main, would be a small team of specialized workmen and able craftsmen to remove the disfiguring layers of paint from the frontages and inner walls of the buildings, repair doors and windows, roofs and cornices, lattices and moucharabies. Restoration measures might even be applied to the Grand Mosque, so as to bring its artistic and historical aspects into clearer evidence. W e think that during a second stage of operations it would

be desirable and feasible to take over a few houses-selected from among the finest and most neglected-restore them, and entrust them to an organization which would turn them into boarding-houses or hotels, or adapt them for any other purpose of general utility. W e feel sure that foreign visitors to Tripoli would be glad to make their stay in such traditional, quiet and peaceful surroundings, rather than in the hotels situated in the wide, noisy streets of the modern district. W e also think that it might be advantageous to renovate the al-Jadid hamman for the benefit of tourists. And in cases where it seemed impracticable to restore a bath, a madrasah or a mosque to its original purpose, such buildings could be used as depots or as galleries in which the work of local artists and craftsmen could be exhibited or offered for sale. The artistic restoration of monuments-which, as explained

above, is a matter requiring meticulous care-should go hand in hand with demolition work, to be undertaken in buildings with no special interest or character. This would lead to the clearance of further open spaces, which could help to solve traffic problems even in the heart of the old city and improve communication between the centre and the outlying districts. It is perhaps worth repeating here that systematic and care-

ful replanning of the sectors where demolition work or trans- formations have taken place is absolutely essential. The new streets that have been opened up in the neighbourhood of the Grand Mosque provide a striking example of the discord resulting from the erection of modern buildings such as have already been described. As w e mentioned earlier, the very heart of the old town contains certain insalubrious and uninteresting portions, fit only for demolition. But if more satisfactory results are to be achieved there, the task must not be envisaged from the petty standpoint of private interests, spe- culation, and the exploitation of the ground thus recovered. Each case must be examined separately, so as to decide whether these sectors can be assimilated in the new town with its modern architecture, or whether they must be brought into line with the old buildings surrounding them. In the latter case, the architecture must always be carefully attuned to the existing setting. It is desirable that any scheme for partial rebuilding should be considered and supervised by the Service of Anti- quities, in conjunction with the other departments concerned, in order to ensure architectural and artistic unity. W e feel, however, that without losing sight of these require-

ments, it would bc possible to carry out certain specific measures to ease the traffic problem in the old town and to link it up with the main arteries of the new.

CONSIDERATION OF A FEW SPECIFIC POINTS

The street that has already been opened to the south of the Grand Mosque links the new district now growing up on the castle hill with the centre of the city. For the reasons already given, the new houses which line it are of little architectural interest; they strike a jarring note. The municipal authorities intend to develop the open spaces round the Grand Mosque as a green belt, with flowerbeds and trees. This is undoubtedly the simplest and wisest course. Without depart- ing from it, one might suggest the addition of a colonnade along the side of the new street; the irregularly-shaped spaces inside would be left unroofed, as in the suqs and khans; they could be adorned with trees and fountains, and there might even be shops. This would have the advantage of allowing an uninterrupted view of the Grand Mosque, while completing the architectural ensemble, and of preserving the style of the sector, since no modern buildings would be put up. More- over, it would leave a maximum of space for the ever- growing street traffic, as pedestrians could walk under the colonnade. The 1947 plan suggested the widening of the new bridge

(Jisr al-Jadid), which is lined with shops. For the reasons already given, this widening is undesirable. The best way of linking the districts on either bank of the river would be to build a bridge serving the thoroughfare now under construction behind St. Michael’s Church. This bridge would afford a fine view. And the new thoroughfare could be connected with the old parts of the town by side-streets planned in such a way as to show to advantage the public buildings and others of artistic value. It must, however, be realized that for both practical and

aesthetic reasons there can be no question of cutting wide, straight streets through the old quarters or of arranging sym- metrical open spaces in them. Winding streets may be

22

Proposed layout of street behind the Grand Mosque.

irritating to motorists, or to engineers whose dream is to build a standard type of house. But straight streets are impossible if we are to preserve the amenities of fine views and green spaces planted with trees. New buildings might be provided with arcades, which would allow of the widest possible streets, since no pavements would be necessary; arcades give welcome shelter from sun or rain, and as is evidenced, for instance, in the courtyard of the Grand Mosque and the al-Haraj suq, they can fit in perfectly well with the existing architecture. Now that the city is spreading out behind the castle and over

the hill to the east of the river, the problem arises how these districts are to be connected with the modern centre of the city ; for this expansion brings ever-increasing pressure to bear on the narrow belt constituted by the old town. The bridge on the Latakia road and the street which has just been opened south of the Grand Mosque are not by themselves enough to solve this problem. Not far from the al-Uwaysiyat mosque, the circular road, which begins to the west of the castle, stops short on a fairly steep gradient (about I 5 per cent). W e take the view that this road should be continued, to reach the lower town by way of the BezerkPn suq, and suggest that this might be done by the construction of a street raised above the level of the existing suqs. Allowance will have to be made for the fact that the hilly districts on either side of the river are particularly sought after for residential purposes, as they are magnificently situated and command fine views. These districts, if developed by careful planning and made easily acces- sible from the other parts of the town, might be particularly beautiful; and the new roads leading to them could afford splendid views of the whole city and its surroundings. This new thoroughfare is shown on our plan; it would pass

above the suqs without damaging them or cutting through them. The excessively steep gradient of the section already built behind the al-Uwaysiyat mosque could be remedied at the same time, with the happy result that a space could then be -cleared round the mosque and its restoration undertaken.

The same measure would set off the Izz ad-din baths and the al-Miswiyin khae to better advantage, for the raised street would run between them, commanding interesting views of their vaulting and domes. The spaces left free, between the houses and the historic buildings, by the construction of this new road could be adorned with trees and grass plots, thus satisfying the requirements in regard to atmosphere, hygiene and aesthetics, according to the principles set forth above. A further suggestion is that the narrow strip below the road

running northwards downhill from the castle, above the Abd al-Wahed mosque, might be made into a terrace; a fine view could be had from there, and garages, shops or warehouses could be built below the shelf thus created. The terrace could be built out to overhang the lower curve of the road and could have on its townward side stone arches in the local style, to conceal the over-rigid cement structures. Two or three palm- trees could be planted to beautify the little triangular patch remaining above the Abd al-Wahed mosque. Other trees should be planted to the north of the castle, in the space where the cemetery lies. Here, as elsewhere, a well-placed tree or climbing plant can often do much to improve the appearance of a ruin, or of an uninteresting modern building. The plan approved by the municipality already provides for

better communication between the residential districts on the hills on either side of the river, the suggestion being that they should be linked by a new bridge, 200 metres or so south of the existing one. The plan gives no indication regarding the streets that should be opened up to carry this new stream of traffic.

W e feel that it would be both useful and logical to connect the bridge with the new street that has been begun west of the castle. It would be difficult to do this in the ordinary manner, on account of the wide variations in ground level-there is a sharp rise on either side of the river-to be traversed by the two sections of the proposed road. There would therefore have to be a number of hairpin bends, requiring extensive engi- neering work together with large-scale demolition. In addition, the proximity of the castle would make it necessary to

bear aesthetic considerations in mind and to preserve the views, which are very fine. Purely as suggestions, w e put forward the two following

solutions, one or the other of which might be chosen after closer study of the question in the light of technical and economic requirements. The first might be the construction of a two-storey bridge,

its causeways being at a level of approximately 24 and 30-32 metres. The lower causeway would carry the traffic from the streets already existing on both sides of the river; the upper causeway, which would take the form of a straight viaduct supported on arches, would fit without difficulty into the network of roads laid out along the flat tops of the two hills; it would thus be unnecessary to cut winding roads down slopes to the river. The alternative might be to cut a tunnel for road traffic just

to the south of the castle, where the hill rises to a height of 5 5-60 metres. This would do away with the need for the two- storey bridge and the viaduct. The tunnel would run at a level of about 30 metres, prolonging the new thoroughfare for heavy traffic passing to the south of the Grand Mosque; a gradient of about 3 per cent would bring it out at a level of 26 metres on the west bank of the river. Thence it could easily be connected with the flow of traflic round the castle and across the river, bv the replanning of certain streets so as to have the further advantage of providing fine and extensive views. It may be noted that the viaduct above the suq, in conjunc-

tion either with the tunnel below the castle or with the new bridge, would provide satisfactory communication between

the residential districts and do away with the risk of interrup- tions, long detours and steep gradients. The measures proposed for improving the flow of traffic

and clearing up the old quarters of the city appear satisfactory from the economic point of view. They take into consideration private interests and landed property in general, wherever such property is still of any value. Better still they restore value to property which has lost it, by putting in the place of un- healthy and characterless areas new buildings such as are in demand by the townspeople. It should also be pointed out that carefully planned restora-

tion and layout, in harmony with the local style, implies the recruitment, training and employment of skilled labour-workmen, masons and craftsmen who are fully qualified to work in the local tradition, but who often fail to find an outlet for their abilities in the standardized methods of modern building. Works of art which have for long been overlooked and

neglected are often found to have acquired interest and importance in the course of time, thanks to the investigations of historians and archaeologists. They are then suddenly given prominence in the showcases of museums.or the shops of antique dealers. W e took the view that the ancient city of Tri- poli was a work of art which, with a little restoration and replanning, could regain its former beauty and take its due place in the luxurious setting of the modern districts. W e hope that the local authorities and the Government, after con- sidering the results of our survey, will agree with us and, success- fully overcoming any practical difficulties arising out of private interests, will one day have the opportunity and the satisfaction of converting this dream into a reality.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

BERCHEM M. van, Journal asiatique, 1896, p. IO et seq. -- , Mate'riaux pour un Corpus Inscriptionurn Arabicarum, 11:

Syrie du Nord, by M. Sobernheim, p. 37-139 and pl. V-XV, Me'moires de l'institut franfais d'arche'ologie orientale, Vol. XXV, Cairo, I 909.

BERCHEM M. van, FATIO E., Vyage en Syrie, Vol. I, p. 116- 30 and pl. VIII-X: Me'moires de l'lnstitut frantais d'arche'ologie orientale, Vols. XXXVII and XXXVIII, Cairo, 1914-1 5.

BUHL Fr., Enylope'die de l'lslam, under the word Tarabulus, p. 695 et seq. Leyden-Paris, 1934.

CHEHAB Emir M., Unpublished notes for a history of the Lebanon.

DESCHAMPS P., Les chiteaax des croisis dans l'ancien conzti de Tripoli de Syrie, Revue de ]'Art, 1936, p. 89-104. -- Le Crac des Chevaliers, p. 18 and pl. I1 and 111, BAH, Vol. XIX, Paris, 1934.

DUSSA UD R., Topographie historique de la Syrie antique et mkdie'vale, p. 75-78, BAH, Vol. IV, Paris, 1927. __ , Vyage en Syrie, Oct.-Nov. 1895, p. I 5. DUSSAUD R., DESCHAMPS P., SEYRIG H., L a Syyrie antique et mi- die'vale illustrie, pl. I I 2 and I I 3, BAH, Vol. XVII, Paris, 193 I.

ENLART C., Les monuments des croise's dans le royaume de Je'ru- salem, Vol. 11, p. 430-40 and Atlas, pl. 185-88, BAH, Vol. VIII, Paris, 1928.

GAUDEFROY-DEMOMBYNES hl., L a Syrie d I'e'poque des Mamelouks d'apris les auteurs arabes, p. 110-17, B A H , Vol. 111, Paris, 1923.

Guide Bleu, Syrie-Palestine, p. 54 et seq., Paris, 1932. Guide Vert, Liban, p. 231 et seq., Beirut, 1948. HITTI Ph. K., History of Syria, p. 224 et seq., London, 195 I. HONIGMANN E. , in Pauly- Wissowa, Real-Enqclopadie, under the word Tripolis (4), col. 203 to 207, Stuttgart, 1939.

Inventaire des monuments historiques de Tripoli, unpublished note by J. Sauvaget (Lebanese Service of Antiquities), part of which was reproduced in Tripoli, 12 p., undated.

RECLUS E., Nouvelle ge'ographie universelle, Vol. IX, p. 775 et seq.

RICHARD J., Le comte' de Tripoli sous la 4nastie toulousaine (1102-87), BAH, Vol. XXXIX, Paris, 1945.

SAUVAGET J., Notes sur les dgenses de la marine de Tripoli, BZd- letin du mzde de Beyouth, Vol. 11, 1938, p. 1-25 and pl. 1-11.

BAALBEK

THE RUINS AT BAALBEK

ROM remotest antiquity, the sanctuary of Heliopolis has enjoyed tremendous renown. Crowds of pil- F grims used to flock to its temple courts and press

round the altars of its gods. Illustrious travellers to the east never failed to visit it.

Its origin as a place of worship is shrouded in the mists of time. Nowadays, study of this question is closely linked with that of the splendid buildings erected by the Roman colony in the first three centuries of the Christian era on the site of the original sanctuary: the great temple with its two courts and propylaeum, its 400 metres of colonnades and exe- drae, monumental flights of steps and vast substructures; the small temple, known as the Temple of Bacchus, whose lofty portico and interior decoration have been preserved almost intact; the circular temple, or Temple of Venus, a mas- terpiece of ancient baroque architecture. All these temples form what is rather loosely termed the Baalbek Acropolis. Even today visitors are amazed by the gigantic blocks used and by the wealth of sculptured decoration. The six columns, with their splendid entablature, which have remained erect on the highest point of the sanctuary seem to be the very symbol of majesty and permanence. Like others, the Roman temples at Baalbek have been

marked by the vicissitudes of time. The Byzantine rulers pulled down the altars to build a church in their place. The Arabs converted them into fortresses. They have also suffered at the hands of nature and some of their columns have col- lapsed as the result of earthquakes. Yet they have withstood the onslaught of time and the destructive instinct of man; and even today their ruins are among the finest groups of ancient monuments in the world. In the eighteenth century, an admirable book by an English-

man, R. Wood, aroused interest in the Baalbek temples. Systematic exploration was undertaken at the end of the last century by a German archaeological expedition under the leadership of Th. Wiegand ; excavations were conducted from 1900 to 1904, and the results were published 20 'years later in a substantial work compiled by a large team of experts. Be- tween 1934 and 1936, consolidation, restoration and clearance work was carried out, at the expense of the Lebanese Govern- ment, by the architects F. Anus and P. Coupel; it led to the discovery of a new monument in the centre of the square court of the great temple. This work was continued after the war by the Service of Antiquities and brought to light the existence in the court of highly interesting relics of antiquity.

ENHANCEMENT OF THE RUINS

The ruins at Baalbek must be considered against the general background of the surrounding oasis. The spring by which it is watered is probably responsible for the Heliopolitan cult. It is safe to state that Baalbek owes to the spring both its gardens and temples, which are to this day the source of its wealth and fame. Its abundant waters are carried along a multitude of canals that supply the thick green belt around the ruins.

Anyone strolling along the paths, following the wayward course of the streams, suddenly catches, between the branches of poplars and walnuts, delightful glimpses of the huge blocks of a wall or the tall shafts of Corinthian columns. The warm colouring of the stone blends perfectly with the rustling green leaves. This is the essence of Baalbek's charm, which must be preserved at all costs.

Baalbek : alterations proposed in I 9s I.

26

Baalbek : alterations proposed by the Mission.

27

However, modern life has brought with it new demands. O n some days, hundreds of tourists flock to Baalbek. When a ship on a pleasure cruise stops there a long procession of cars winds its way to the sanctuary over the Lebanon range. There is no denying that the place is ill suited for their recep- tion. It should be possible to reach the ruins without having to pick a way through the narrow, often crowded streets of the little town; there should be a roomy car park near the main entrance to the temples; and access to the famous Trilithon should be made easy. Further, the ruins, whose appearance from inside the sanctuary has been steadily improved by skilful restoration and consolidation work, are not seen to advantage from outside. Trees have grown all round un- checked, too thick, too tall and too near. The elegant circular temple and the charming mosque are completely cut off from the main group of big temples. The narrow stairway at the entrance, with its ticket office and turnstile, spoils the propylaeum and gives a disappointing first impression. These are the reasons why a plan has been drawn up for

improving the setting of the Baalbek ruins and their approaches. The salient Doints of the Dlan are: I.

2.

3.

4.

r.

6.

Building of a wide, straight road, leading direct to the entrance of the ruins, from the south, so as to avoid passing through the town. Opening of a wide avenue from the Palmyra Hotel to the new road, in the axis of the six columns. Clearing of a large open space in front of the entrance to the ruins, with car parks. Clearance work round the circular temple and improvement of its approaches; this temple would remain separated from the larger temples by the new thoroughfare. Building of a boulevard for motor traffic all round the ruins; in the proposed plan this consists of straight sections with right-angle turns. Several streets connecting this system with the network of streets in the town, as provided for in a plan for extension and improvement that is already being carried out.

Whilst tgs plan admirably meets all the-practical requirements listed above, rather serious objections might be raised from the aesthetic point of view, with which we are more particularly concerned here. All the proposed roads are to be straight, and this is quite out of keeping with the character of the Baal- bek oasis and the surroundings of the ruins. The building of a roadway all round the ruins would destroy the charm of the present paths, and therefore seems to us undesirable. The circular temple, though set off to greater advantage, would still be isolated, as would the large mosque behind it. A large open space, bare and noisy, in front of the entrance to the temples and carrying a heavy traffic load is hardly calculated to prepare tourists for the aesthetic emotions they should feel on a visit to the Baalbek ruins. W e think it may be possible to deal with the problem in

some other way that would meet the same requirements whilst at the same time avoiding these serious drawbacks. The chief aim should be to preserve the present character of the site. The excellent idea of creating a new approach that would

avoid the streets of the modern town should be retained. This new road would break away from the Beirut road at the out- skirts of the town and would lead round from the north to the entrance to the ruins. It should be built like the avenue of a park, following a winding course through the garden area. The tourist would thus be able to enjoy from the outset the refreshing green oasis after crossing the bare plain of Bekaa.

A sketch is given on page 27.

The road would skirt the north-west corner of the ruins, and here the tourist could walk a few steps to admire the Trilithon. Further, on arriving at the site, the road would command splendid views of the temples through carefully arranged breaks in the belt of trees. Near the north-east corner of the ruins, it would join up with the present road to Homs. A car park as large as desired could be arranged, a little apart, between this point and the old mosque. The space in front of the propylaea as well as the mosque

and the circular temple should be incorporated in the temple enclosure. The entrance to the archaeological site would thus be moved backwards to the boundary of the car park, as a second entrance is provided for on the townward side between the circular temple and the mosque. This whole area should be designed as a park, with avenues and clumps of trees planted so as to afford views of the buildings. There would be no practical drawback in discontinuing the flow of traffic in front of the temples, as a new road has already been opened up further eastwards, as part of the plan for extending Baalbek, mainly in the direction of Homs. The circular temple is well below ground level today; the

surrounding earth should be flattened in front so as to afford an open view of its fasade, and built up into tree-planted slopes on either side to provide a frame. Behind it, the small adjoining mosque with its minaret would be preserved, as it adds a pleasing picturesque touch. The garden area to the south and west of the ruins will be

threaded by footpaths only, along which delightful walks may be taken. These paths are already there. Their winding course will be kept, but they will be better surfaced and laid out. O n the other hand, the narrow road at present connecting the sector between the Palmyra Hotel and the circular temple will be adapted for motor traffic and continued behind the circular temple and the great mosque as far as the new car park. This thoroughfare, doubling the width of the present road, will ease its traffic load and be a useful addition to the road circuit. There is nothing artificial in the plan we propose, which is

dictated by the natural flow of traffic. Corners, bends and parking areas have been arranged so as to provide interesting views. There are links with the road to Homs and with the network of streets in the town. It should also be pointed out that the removal of the monu-

mental flight of steps of the propylaea has long marred the ancient entrance to the temples. This entrance should not therefore serve as the chief motif in the new layout and the focal point for streets and open spaces. A far more satisfactory view would be obtained by arranging the entrance to face the circular temple between the propylaea of the great temple and the large mosque. Once the traffic in front of the propylaea is done away with, it will be possible to adjust the ground level inside the new archaeological park for the sole purpose of setting off the monuments to greater advantage.

Special attention will be given to the question of planting trees. Those that are most commonly found in Baalbek will be used for preference-poplars, walnuts and fruit-trees, which are in character with the garden area. The trees will not be allowed to grow too thickly or to too great a height in the immediate vicinity of the ruins. Care will be taken to provide views of the colonnades through breaks in the mass of foliage. The ban on building in a wide belt all round the temples, particularly to the south and west, will be maintained. In the parts of the town nearest to the ruins, the height of buildings will continue to be strictly limited.

28

W e feel that the series of measures advocated above would wish of the Lebanese authorities. And we are confident that they will succeed in solving with tact and sympathy a problem which is of prime concern to them, as it is to all admirers of this beautiful country and its glorious past.

ensure the preservation of one of the most beautiful and famous sites in the world, whilst making it easier of access and heightening the pleasure of a visit. W e know that this is the

SHORT BIBLIOGRAPHY

ALUF M. I., History of Baalbek, zIst ed., Beirut, 1953. ANUS F., Syria, XIII, 1932, p. 293-9. Baalbek, Ergebnisse der Ausgrabungen . . . , Berlin and Leipzig,

COLLART P., Baalbek et Rome . . . , Maseum Helveticum, VIII, I 9 5 I ,

COLLART P., COUPEL P., L'autel monumental de Baalbek, BAH,

COUPEL P., Qria, XVII, 1936, p. 321-34. DUSSAUD R., Temples et cultes de la triade biliopolitaine d Baal- bek, Syria, XXIII, 1942-43, p. 33-77.

1921-21.

p. 241-59.

Vol. LII, Paris, 19 5 I.

SEYRIG H., Heliopolitana, Ball. du Masie de Byroutb, I, 1937,

-- , La triade biliopolitaine et les temples de Baalbek, @ria,

WEIGAND Ed., Baalbek und Rom, Jabrbucb des kais. arcbaol. Inst.,

-- Baalbek, Datierung und hnstgescbicbtlicbe Stellung seiner Baaten, Jabrb. fir Kanstwissenscbaft, 1924-25 , p. 77-99 and p. 165-96.

p. 77 et seq.

x, 1929, p. 314-16. XXIX, 1914, p. 37-91.

WOOD R., The rains of Baalbek . . . , London, I 7j 7.

29

I

I. Tripoli. Castle-aerial view. z. Tripoli. Lions Tower-doorway. 3. Tripoli. Lions Tower. 4. Tripoli. Lions Tower-interior.

2 3 4

j . Tripoli. G r a n d LMosque-aerial view. 6. Tripoli. Al-Burtasiyat madrasah.

7. Tripoli. G r a n d Mosque-domes of the al-Qar- Plan of the Al-Burtasiyat madrasah.

tawiyat madrasah and castle.

. .. ..... . ;

8

8. Tripoli. Tylan mosque-general view.

9. Tripoli. Al-Tawbat mosque. Tylan mosque-longitudinal section.

IO. Tripoli. Tylan mosque-dome.

' I

R d

I I. Tripoli. Al- Wahed mosque. I 2. Tripoli. Al-Muallaq mosque. I 3. T'ripoli. Al-Tahham mosque. 14. Tripoli. Al-Attar mosque.

1 7

'9

18

20

I 5. Tripoli. Abd al-Wahed mosque-dome. I 6. Tripoli. Al-Tawbat mosque-dome. I 7. Tripoli. AI-Nuri hammam-dome. 18. Tripoli. Al-Tuwayshiyat madrasah-dome. I 9. Tripoli. Al-Saqraqiyat madrasah-dome. 20. Tripoli. Stucco decoration (anonymous madrasah).

22

2 I. Tripoli. AI-Burtasiyat madrasah-interior of dome. 22. Tripoli. Tylan mosque-intenor of dome. 23. Tripoli. Al-Saqraqiyat madrasah.

AI-Saqraqiyat madrasah : longitudinal section and plan.

26

24. Tripoli. Al-Qartawiyat madrasah-doorway. 25. Tripoli. Tylan mosque-interior doorway. 26. Tripoli. Al-Qartawiyat madrasah-interior.

Plan of the AI-Haraj suq.

27. Tripoli. Al-Nuri hammam-general view of domes. 28. Tripoli. Al-KhayyBtin khan. 29. Tripoli. Al-Haraj suq.

28 29

30. Tripoli. 51. Tripoli. 32. Tripoli. Street scene, in the vicinity of the castle. 3 3. Tripoli. Slope up to the castle.

Street scene, in the vicinity of the Grand Mosque. Street scene, in the vicinity of the Old Bridge.

34 35

34-37. Tripoli. Typical houses.

38

39

38. Baalbek. Aerial view of temples. 39. Baalbek. Exedra of the square court. 40. Baalbek. Mosque.

4z 44

41. Baalbek. The spring. 42. Baalbek. Path behind the temples. 43. Baalhek. View of the Temple of Bacchus. 44. Baalbek. Entrance to the ruins.

4 0 4 education and art a review of art education throughout the world in one single volume. What is happening internationally in art education ? How can the teaching and appreciation of the visual arts enrich national cultural life and contribute to international understanding ?

4 0 4 education and art a symposium edited by Dr. Edwh Ziegfeld and published by Unesco, provides a comprehensive and informative survey of the many aspects of this field of education. It will be indispensable for teachers of art, of great interest to parents, and will appeal to all those interested in art in all countries of the world.

education and art can be ordered through booksellers or direct from the Unesco national distributors (see list).

88 pages of illustrations on art paper: I four-colour frontispiece, 23 four-colour illustrations, 99 black and white illustrations (half-tone). I 29 pages of text. Paper: $5.00; z7/6; 1,300 fr. Cloth: $5.50; 30/-; 1,500 fr. (or equivalent in local currencies).

Unesco, 19 avenue KICber, Paris

A U ll E'S c 0

U N E S C O P U B L I C A T I O N S : N A T I O N A L D I S T R I B U T O R S

ARGENTWA Editorial Sudamcricam, SA., Alsina goo, Buenos Ares ASSOCIATED STATES OF CAMBODIA, LAOS AND VIET-NAM Librairie Nouvelle, Albert Portail, B.P. 283, Saigon AUSTWA oxford University Press, 346 Little Collins Street, Melbourne AUSTRIA Wilhelm Frick Verla~, 37 Graben, Vienna I BELGIUM Librairie Encydoptdlque, 7 rue du Luxembour Brussels IV BOLIVIA Libreria Selecciones, Avenida 16 de Julio 216, Paz BRAZIL Livraria Agir Editora, rua M d c o 98-B, Cam Postal 3291, Rio de Janeiro CANADA University of Toronto Press, Toronto. Periodica Inc., 5 I I 2 avenue Papineau, Montreal 34 CEYLON Lake House Bookshop, The Associated Newspapers of Ceylon Ltd., P.O. Box 244, Colombo I CHILE Libreria Lo e de Vega, Cde Estado 54, Santiago de Chile

COSTA RICA Trejos Hermanos, A artado 1313, San JosC

CYPRUS M. E. Constanunides, P.O. Box 473, Nicosia CZECHOSLOVAKIA Artia Ltd., 30 Ve smeckiich, Pra ue z DENMARK Ejnar Munks aard Ltd., 6 Norregade, topenhagen K

COLOMBIA Emilio P oyo Martin, Carrera 9a, No. 1791, Bogota CUBA Unesco Centro Regional en e P Hemisfero Occidental, Calle j No. 306 Vedado, Apartado I 3 5 8, Havana ECUADOR Casa de la Cu f tura Ecuatoriana, Avcnida 6 de Diciembre 332, Quito FORMOSA The World Section I, Taipeh FRANCE Unesco

HAITI HONG KONG Swindon Book Co., 2 Nathan Road, Kowloon HUNGARY Kultuia, P.O.B. 147, B u d

Librairie “A la Caravelle”, 36 rue ROUX, B.P. III-B, Port-au-Prince

INDIA Orient Lon mans Ltd., Indian Et ercantile bp Chamber, Nicol Road, Bombay. 17 Chittaranjan Ave., Calcutta. 36-1 Mount Road, Madras. Snb-depots: Oxford Book and Stationery Co., Scinha House, New Delhi. Rajkamal Publications Ltd., Himalaya House, Hornby Road, Bombay I

INDONESIA G.C.T. van Dorp & Co., Djh Nusantara 22, Jakarta IRAQ McKemie’s Bookshop, Baghdad ISRAEL Blumstein’s Bookstores Ltd., 35 Menby Road, P.O.B. 5154, Tel Aviv ITALY Libreria Commissionaria G.C. Sansor& via Gin0 Capponi 26, Casella Postale 152, Florence JAMAICA Sangster’s Book Room, 9 Harbour Street, Kin ston. Kaox Educational Services, Spaldings

L ANON Librairie Universde, avenue der Franpis, Beirut LIBERIA J. Momolo Kamara, 69 Front & Gorle Streets, Monrovia

MADAGASCAR La Librakie de Madagascar, Tanvladtre MALAYAN FEDERATION AND SINGAPORE Peter Chong & Co., P.O. Box 135, Singapore -TA Sapienza’s Library, 26 Kingswa Valletta MEXICO Difusora de las publicaciones 1; la Unesco, 127 Avenida Ejido, Esc. 401, Mexico, D.F. NETHERLANDS N. V. Martinus Nijhd, Lange Voorhout The Hague NEW ZEALAND Unesco Publications Centre, 7 De Lacy ?weet, Dunedin, N.E.2 NIGERIA C.M.S. Bookshop, P.O. Box 174, Lagos NORWAY AIS Bokhjornet, Stortin s lass 7, Oslo PAKISTAN Ferozsons, 60 The Malf Lahore. Bunder Road, Karachi. 35 The Mall, Peshawar PANAMA Agencia Internacional de Publicaciones, Apartado 2052, Plaza de Arango No 3, Panama R.P. PERU Libreria Internacional del Ptru, S.A., A do 1417, Lima PHILIPPINES Philippine Education Co., 1104 r tillcjos, Quiapo, Manila PORTUGAL Publicapes Europa-Amkrica’ Ltda., 4 Rua da Barroca, Lisbon PUERTO RICO Pan-American Book Co., San Juan 12 SENEGAL Librairie #TOUS les Livres”, 30 rue de Thiong, Dakar SPAIN Aguilar, S.A. de Ediaones, uan Bravo 38, Madrid SWEDEN A/B C.E. Fritzes KungL, Hovbokhandel, Fredsgatan 2, Stockholm 16 SWITZERLAND Librairie de l’universitk, S.A., Case Postale 72, Fribourg. EuropaVerlag, 5 Rimistrasse, Zurich SYRIA Librairje Universde, Damascus TANGIER Centre International, 20 rue Moliae THAILAND Suksa an Panit, Arkarn g, Rajdamnern Ave., Bangkok TUR~EY Librairie Hachette, 469 Istiklal Caddesi, Beyoglu, Istanbul UNION OF BURMA Burma E d U d O M l Bookshop, 5 5 1-3 Merchant Street, P.O. Box 222, Rangoon UNION OF SOUTH AFRICA Van Schaik’s Bookstore (Pty) Ltd., P.O. Box 724, Pretoria UNITED KINGDOM AND N. IRELAND H.M. Stationery Office, P.O. Box 569, London, S.E.1 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA Columbia University Press, 2960 Br6adway, New York 27, N.Y. URUGUAY Unesco, Centro de Cooperaci6n Cientifica para Amkrica Latina, Bulevar Artigas I 3 20, Montevideo VENEZUELA Libreria Villegas Venezolana, Madrices a Marron N. 35, Pasaje Urdaneta, Local B, Caracas YUGOSLAVIA Jugoslovenska Knjiga, Terazijc 2711 I, Belgrade

JAPAN Maruzen Co. Inc., 6 Tori- 3 ichome, Nihonbashi, ?i: okyo

LUXEMBOURG Librairie Paul Bruck, 50 Grand- K’ ue ORDAN Joseph I. Bahous & Co., Dar-ul-Kutub, Salt Road, Amman

*

SURINAM Radhakishun & Co. Ltd. ( B ook Dept.), Watermolenstraat 36, Paramaribo

TUNISIA Victor 8 oukhors, 4 rue Nocard, Tunis

‘

(

i

r‘

UNESCO BOOK C~UPONS can be used to purchase all books and periodicals of an educational, scientific or cultural character. For full information please write to: Unesm Couppn 0 3 6 , 19 avenue Kltber, Paris-160, France.

i the bmlbek acropolis - unesdoc database | united...

Documents