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photo: Oral care | New applications with beneficial claims to accommodate consumers’ demands are being offered for an ever-expanding oral care industry. This requires not only classic active ingredients but also ingredients of natural origin, together with the adaptation of basic formulations e.g. with pearl pigments to obtain both attractive and functional oral care products. photos: Merck, M.J. Tierneyn (lead photo, Shutterstock.com How to smile like a star INGREDIENTS 28 l COSSMA 5 I 2018

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Page 1: How to smile like a star - Merck Group€¦ · Hydrating the skin, conditioning the hair, improving cohesion of makeup. MORE NATURAL THAN EVER Castor oil-derived, 100% biodegradable

photo

:

Oral care | New applications with beneficial claims to accommodate

consumers’ demands are being offered for an ever-expanding oral care

industry. This requires not only classic active ingredients but also ingredients

of natural origin, together with the adaptation of basic formulations e.g. with

pearl pigments to obtain both attractive and functional oral care products.

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INGREDIENTS

28 l COSSMA 5 I 2018

Page 2: How to smile like a star - Merck Group€¦ · Hydrating the skin, conditioning the hair, improving cohesion of makeup. MORE NATURAL THAN EVER Castor oil-derived, 100% biodegradable

A bright smile makes every-

body attractive and a good

oral hygiene routine makes

a smile even better. Keeping the

mouth clean is important, as it

protects against disease and other

problems such as bad breath or

stained teeth. In the past, oral care

was mainly limited to brushing or

rinsing with appropriate products.

But nowadays, there are a lot of

product variants available on the

market, offering new performance

formulas together with attractive

modes of application. For a suc-

cessful development effort, a huge

variety of active ingredients and

pearlescent pigments are availa-

ble to achieve different product

functionalities and ultimately

consumer needs. The oral care

industry, a truly global market, is

dominated by toothpastes, while

toothbrushes hold second place,

followed by mouthwashes and

dental ancillaries. Market impor-

tance is increasing as people live

more and more consciously and

take care of their attractiveness

and healthiness.

Why oral care is important

Maintaining oral health and

enhancing one’s own attractive-

ness are the main inducements

for people to use oral care prod-

ucts. Oral health problems can be

categorised into dental and per-

iodontal diseases, such as caries

or periodontitis. Both are fostered

by bacterial plaque on the tooth’s

surface and can be prevented with

a regular and proper oral care

routine.

Discolouration, in contrast, is

more of a “blemish” problem.

Every day, a thin coating (pellicle)

is formed on the enamel’s surface

and picks up stains from food.

Tooth enamel also contains pores

that can be filled with stains. The

most common reasons for yel-

lowish or discoloured teeth are:

smoking, drinking dark-coloured

liquids such as coffee, cola, tea

and red wine. Maturing repre-

sents another colour change fac-

tor, because over the years, teeth

are less bright and the enamel gets

thinner while the dentin becomes

darker. So whitening products

are used to lighten up the colour

of the teeth and help to remove

stains and discoloration.

Regional and cultural

differences

The most common and impor-

tant oral care routine is brush-

ing one’s teeth with toothpastes.

The latter are semisolid viscous

products, mostly offered as white,

opaque pastes or transparent gels.

As region and culture determine

the requirements for toothpastes,

these can differ to a certain degree.

A common differentiation is

the age of the consumer. Tooth-

pastes for kids have been around

for many years and represent an

important part in the global oral

care market.

The mature consumer is another

major market segment, as a con-

sistent oral care routine may

decrease the risk of tooth or gum

diseases.

Consumers in North America care

about raw material composition,

show high interest in formulations

with natural ingredients, and are

looking for products for sensitive

teeth or with an anti-yellowing

effect.

AUTHORS:

Shilpa Dhangar, Product Manager Cosmetics

Merck India, Xenia Petsitis, Global Technical

Marketing Manager, Effect Solutions

Merck Darmstadt, Germany

www.merck4cosmetics.com

BRIGHT SMILE

A clean mouth

prevents from

diseases, bad

breath and stained

teeth

The most common

reasons for

yellowish or

discoloured teeth

are smoking and

drinking dark-

coloured liquids

Whitening prod-

ucts lighten up the

colour of the teeth

and remove stains

and discolouration

“ Consumers demand new applications

with beneficial claims”

Xenia Petsitis, Global Technical Marketing Manager, Effect Solutions, Merck

INGREDIENTS

www.cossma.com l 29

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In Europe, toothpaste (and mouth-

wash) formulations often contain

additives such as minerals and vita-

mins. Another focus topic is sensitive

teeth, as well as the trend towards

alcohol-free formulations. In the

Asia-Pacific region, people in some

areas have less money to spend, and

the use of traditional herbs is still

very common. In general, there is a

growing importance of unusual new

products such as black toothpaste

with (bamboo) charcoal or activated

charcoal, see fig. 1, to remove bad

odour and to support the effective-

ness of cleaning.

The reduction of bad breath has been

the most important claim in the past.

Mouthwash is a water-based liquid

and the third highest selling product

for oral care. Depending on the com-

position of their formulas (and the

country regulations), they can be cat-

egorised into cosmetic, OTC or pre-

scription-based products. Nowadays,

alcohol-free formulations are gaining

importance, and benefits such as an

antibacterial effect and reduction or

control of plaque are key. Some claim

a reduction of sensitivity and gum

bleeding, or a whitening effect. Some

rinses available as breath fresheners

are only used to combat malodour

and refresh the mouth.

Special applications

Breath fresheners are also available

on the market as sprays, chewing

mixes, mint tablets or strips. Loz-

enges and chewing gums can also

be used as breath fresheners. But

lozenges are mainly used to soothe

irritated tissue, while chewing gums

may also be used to clean the teeth.

Whitening is gaining popularity, as

it can improve the look of the teeth.

A brightening effect can be achieved

in two ways: chemically by bleach-

ing or physically with non-bleach-

ing products. Generally, we can differ

between peroxide-containing bleach-

ing agents and whitening products

without this ingredient. Whitening

products can be administered by a

dentist, while consumer-adapted for-

mulas are offered for home use (as

OTC products). Carbamide perox-

ide is used in many bleaching prod-

ucts. It breaks down into hydrogen

peroxide and urea, while hydrogen

peroxide acts as a bleaching agent.

So-called whitening toothpastes

mostly also contain abrasive agents

and can lighten the colour of the

teeth by about one shade. Claims

such as “dazzling white teeth” or

“no peroxide whitening” indicate

such kinds of formulations. But they

are not as strong in terms of efficacy

in comparison to peroxide-contain-

ing products.

Other products for tooth whitening

include strips and rinses. Whitening

strips are very thin, virtually invisi-

ble and coated with a peroxide-based

gel. They are applied directly on the

teeth according to the instructions

on the label. Initial results should be

seen within a few days and the final

result lasts for about four months.

Whitening rinses are similar to

mouthwashes, as they can both

freshen the breath and help to reduce

dental plaque. These products

include ingredients such as hydro-

gen peroxide that help to whiten the

teeth. About 12 weeks of treatment

(twice a day before brushing the

teeth) is needed to see the desired

results. These products are consid-

ered to be milder in comparison to

other whitening OTC products. But

in general, the degree of whiteness

will vary from individual to individ-

ual, depending on the condition of

the teeth, the level of staining, and

the type of bleaching system used.

The main active ingredients

for oral care products?

Fluorides are used in various forms

as a remineralisation agent in many

oral care formulations. They have a

crucial impact on the hardness and

strength of the teeth. The active

ingredients mostly used for reminer-

alisation are fluorides such as sodium

monofluorophosphate (Na2PO3F),

sodium fluoride (NaF), stannous flu-

oride (SnF2) and organo (-amine) flu-

Clean teeth and a good oral hygiene enhance people’s attractiveness

“ Appealing products with new performances require the

right mix of active ingredients and pearlescent pigments”

Xenia Petsitis, Global Technical Marketing Manager, Merck

INGREDIENTS

30 l COSSMA 5 I 2018 www.cossma.comwww.cossma.com

Page 4: How to smile like a star - Merck Group€¦ · Hydrating the skin, conditioning the hair, improving cohesion of makeup. MORE NATURAL THAN EVER Castor oil-derived, 100% biodegradable

orides. NaF is often incorporated into

anti-caries formulations. Its usage

level is around 1,500 ppm for adults

and 500 ppm for children, because

excessive use of fluorides can cause

dental fluorosis: This chronic over-

dosage of fluoride during pre-erup-

tive stages of teeth can occur because

children often swallow some of the

toothpaste.

In the EU, USA, Japan and China,

different regulations on usage lev-

els apply, as well as for agents con-

taining anti-caries fluorides such as

RonaCare Olaflur and RonaCare

NaF.

Many botanicals used for oral care

during ancient times are still com-

mon, such as extracts of neem or

tulsi, clove oil, lemon oil, rose-

mary and sage. Essential oils such

as tea tree oil, clove oil and cinna-

mon oil are used because of their

antimicrobial properties. To support

the anti-plaque functionality, Ron-

aCare CPC* is a well-established,

effective ingredient that basically

A CLOSER LOOK AT DEMINERALIZATION

Demineralization occurs when the oral environment of the teeth has less

mineral ion content relative to the tooth content, which may occur at a low

pH or acidic level. Various bacteria might be present in the plaque, such

as S. mutans, S. faecalis, S. salivarius, S. mitis and S. sanguis. S. mutans

metabolises sugar and produces lactic acid, which ultimately lowers the pH

level of saliva. In case the pH level is below the pH of hydroxyapatite (5.5),

the process of demineralisation takes place and caries formation may follow.

Tooth remineralisation also occurs naturally. As soon as the acidity of

the tooth is neutralised the remineralisation process starts. When fluoride

ions are present in plaque, fluoride is adsorbed on the surface of the teeth

in a crystalline form. It replaces the calcium phosphate and fluoride ions

that are lost during demineralisation. The remineralisation process starts

at a pH above 5.5 and thus hardens the dental enamel by forming

fluoroapatite.

N N

works on account of its antibacterial

activity. It is an ingredient of choice

for mouthwashes. Especially for

gum care, RonaCare Allantoin and

RonaCare Bisabolol can be formu-

lated in the different applications of

oral care. Bisabolol is a natural mon-

ocyclic sesquiterpene alcohol. It is a

colourless viscous oil that provides

anti-phlogistic, anti-inflammatory

and soothing properties, thus mak-

ing it a good choice for the protec-

tion and care of the mucous mem-

brane, alone or in combination with

other actives. Well known additives

are also vitamin C or E.

Look and feel good products

with proven performance

With requirements constantly chang-

ing nowadays, there is high demand

for the product to look and feel good

along with proven and safe perfor-

mance. For toothpastes for children

requirements are different. There are

special toothpaste products specially

designed for kids. They make tooth

fig. 1: Sparkling tooth gel (formula M-IND 16-62 MB 78) with activated charcoal, 0.20% RonaCare Sodium Benzoate, 0.1% RonaCare Allantoin and 0.05% Ronastar Frozen Jewel

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Page 5: How to smile like a star - Merck Group€¦ · Hydrating the skin, conditioning the hair, improving cohesion of makeup. MORE NATURAL THAN EVER Castor oil-derived, 100% biodegradable

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Ever heard of toothpaste with bamboo?

brushing a safe and at the same

time a fun activity.

However, the aesthetic appear-

ance also plays an important role

for adult oral care formulations.

The whitening effect or the mar-

keting concept can be visual-

ised by adding pearlescent pig-

ments, for example. A clear gel

or a mouthwash with some sil-

very, bluish or greenish sparkling

highlights makes it more attrac-

tive and may also help to under-

line the differentiation to com-

petition products. For children’s

products as well as for adults, of

course, the colour shade, the fla-

vouring and glitter effects should

be adapted in an appealing way.

The effectiveness of the product

can always be supported visually

with the help of coloured or silver

sparkling pigments. Green, see

fig. 2, could stand for nature-re-

lated ingredients, blue and silver

for freshness, and gold for luxury

or high quality.

A concrete example of setting

a special highlight is adding

pearlescent pigments such as

Timiron Diamond Cluster MP-149,

Ronastar Frozen Jewel (both sil-

ver), Xirona Moonlight Sparks

(silver and gold), or any other

interference pigments. The usage

level depends on the desired

effect and the particle size dis-

tribution. Generally, pearlescent

pigments with particle sizes of up

to 200 µm show a nice sparkling

effect already at very low concen-

trations (e.g. 0.05%, 0.5%), as

they are highly effective. What is

important is the basic formula: It

is essential to use a transparent

base, as opaque formulas swallow

or hide the shine effect too much.

Mass-tone pigments such as Colo-

rona SynCranberry and Colorona

Precious Gold are ideal for creat-

ing a striking red or dazzling gold

gel in case no soluble dye is to

be used.

The variety of effects to beau-

tify oral care products is endless.

Products for kids could also be

developed with pearl pigments of

the Candurin brand. This pigment

range is usually approved for use

in food and can be considered as

very safe for children’s toothpaste

products.

New applications and claims

for a growing market

As there is a rising awareness

of dental hygiene and as the

oral care industry is expanding

day by day, great new applica-

tions with beneficial claims are

being offered. To fulfil the dif-

ferent demands placed on oral

health care and higher personal

attraction, focused product devel-

opment and raw material effec-

tiveness are key factors. Basic for-

mulations can be adapted easily

to novel demands with the help

of functional, innovative ingredi-

ents. In addition to classic active

ingredients, raw materials of nat-

ural origin are important. Tack-

ling formulation aspects including

the use of pearl pigments helps to

manage the demanding develop-

ment of attractive and functional

oral care products. Q

DOWNLOADS

Additional information at

www.cossma.com/qr00293

Your access codes for May:

User name: cossma5

Password: active

A consistent oral

care routine may

decrease the risk

of tooth or gum

diseases

CONSUMERS

in North America

favour formula-

tions with natural

ingredients

In some areas of

the Asia-Pacific

region people

have less money

to spend, and the

use of traditional

herbs is still very

common

*INCI: cetylpyridinum chloride

Additional information can be found on the Internet – see download panel

fig. 2: Tooth gel (formula M-IND 16-61 MB 78) with 0.2 RonaCare Sodium Benzoate and 0.05 Xirona Moonlight Sparks

INGREDIENTS

32 l COSSMA 5 I 2018 www.cossma.comwww.cossma.com

Page 6: How to smile like a star - Merck Group€¦ · Hydrating the skin, conditioning the hair, improving cohesion of makeup. MORE NATURAL THAN EVER Castor oil-derived, 100% biodegradable

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