how to get the most out of your mil

8/7/2019 How to Get the Most out of your Mil

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How to Get the Most out of your Mil-Dot Reticle

Over the last couple of years the mil dot reticle has become less of an option and more the

standard in tactical rifle scopes. Since its inception with the Unertl USMC sniper scope and

later in various versions of the Leupold Mark IV scope, military snipers have come to know

the mil dot reticle as a reliable means of determining distances to targets, establishing leads

for moving targets, and for alternate aiming points for windage and elevation holds. Military

snipers who are graduates of formal programs of instruction have spent numerous hours

honing their ability to use the mil dot reticle and are comfortable and competent with it.

Military snipers are easy to train on the mil dot reticle, as the military has been using the mil

relation formula in one form or another for many years. As the WERM rule (width of

correction = Range x mils observed), it has been the mainstay for determining adjustments

when calling and adjusting indirect fire weapons such as mortars and artillery. On the other

hand, so me Law Enforcement and civilian tactical and practical long-range precisionshooters are a little hesitant sometimes of the mil dot reticle because of a lack of proper

training. I hope this article will help remedy this problem.

The mil dot reticle is a post and wire reticle with 10 mils

(milliradians) between opposing posts and dots spaced 1 mil apart on the wires, minus the

reticle intersection so as not to obscure the aiming point. A milliradian is an angular unit of

measure that just happens to equal one yard at 1000 yards and 1 meter at 1000 meters.

Knowing this fact we can, through the wonders of elementary mathematics, use this little

critter to determine distance to an object when the size of the object is known. The sniper

simply measures his target using the dots, then works a simple formula to obtain the

target's distance or the distance to an item near the target.

How the milliradian became the unit of measure of choice is fairly interesting as sniper trivia.

Back when the military was determining how to graduate their artillery pieces the techno-

geeks settled on the milliradian as the unit of measure for their sights. Since there were

6,283 milliradian (2 PI for all you math whizzes) in 360 degrees they rounded up to 6400.

The Soviets on the other hand rounded down and ended up with 6200 mils in a circle for

their artillery sights, compasses, etc.



As the Marine Corps sniper program grew and matured during the late 70's, the snipers

desired more accurate range estimation abilities than what the issue 6x30 and 7x50

binoculars and the 3x9 Redfield scope were allowing. The binoculars had hatch marks that

were graduated in 10 mil increments with the actual hatch mark lines being 5 mils long

(Steiner M22), which were all too coarse for obtaining much precision. Add to this that theAccu-trac system in the Redfield, using an 18-inch stadia line intended for deer hunting, left

much to be desired for tactical shooting. We at the Scout/Sniper Instructor School used a

"barber pole" to teach students to mentally break the reticles of the binoculars into finer sub-

tensions than for what the binoculars were originally designed. This barber pole had 4"

bands painted on it and we set it out at 111 yards where each band equaled 1 mil. This

allowed the student to see what the graphics on the reticle subtended including hatch

marks, numbers etc. For example, the base of the number 2 equaled a certain fraction of a

mil and the tips of the number 3 equaled another number of mils. All of this was fine and

dandy but a better way was needed.

Although the mil dot system is both simple and accurate, as with anything else it does have

limitations, especially if you haven't received formal training on them. The owner's manuals

that usually come with the civilian scopes are very basic when they explain the use of the

reticle. I've been teaching the use of the things for over 18 years and have seen most of the

problems that students run into when first encountering mil dot reticles. Even high-tech

devices such as laser range finders have limitations and disadvantages and low-tech mil

dots are no exception. In this article I will cover some facets of mildot usage that will

enhance your ability to use them.

The Mil relation formula

There are a couple of permutations of the mil relation formula floating around. At first look

most of them strike fear in the hearts of most of us Neanderthal, knuckle dragger types, but

they are really quite user friendly. Granted the formulas require you to use more than your

fingers and toes, but we Marines can handle it! Well, here we go. The basic one is:



Height of item in yards (meters) x 1000/Mils read = Distance to item in yards (meters)

This formula is good when the sniper knows an item's size in yards. My only problem with

this version is that cops often have to deal with small items such as vehicle wheels, small

stickers on windows, headlights etc. This requires the officer to convert a 7" headlight into a

decimal equivalent in yards before they can work the formula. And since most cops arefellow Neanderthals and are usually under a fair amount of stress to begin with, I prefer to

teach the formula:

Height of item in inches x 27.8 (25.4)/Mils read = Distance to target in yards (meters)

The formula can be worked backward in training so that if the distance to the target is

known we will know what the mil reading should be. This is handy for beginners learning to

read mil dots. The formula for this is:

Size of item in inches x 27.8 (25.4)/Distance in yards (meters) = Mils

Knowing the sizes of items being measured is a matter of knowing your prospective area of

operation and making a list of the sizes of standard items. Make sure you get both height

and width of objects as you can mil both dimensions but the largest dimension

mathematically will usually give the most accurate answer. Military snipers should have

sizes of enemy vehicles, enemy weapons, average heights of soldiers, etc. An LE sniper

should have sizes of traffic signs, bricks, license plates, etc. So carry a tape measure and a

notebook with you and prepare to have people look at you funny as you measure curbs,

traffic lights, mailboxes and other commonly found objects in your area of operation.

So as you can see the mil relation formula shouldn't scare

anyone off. As a matter of fact there are ways to make the use of the formula even easier.

Many data books such as the TRGT data book and others have charts developed using

computer spreadsheets that allow the shooter to find the target size and the mil reading on

the chart and it gives the shooter the distance without any hate or discontent. You can even

make your own using the above formulas if you know how to use a spreadsheet such as

MS Excel.

The EASIEST way to deal with this formula is to get yourself a The Mil Dot Master . This

handy slide-rule type device does the calculations for the mil relation formula, corrects for

target size when viewed at angles, corrects for slope, gives MOA/mil/in equivalence and



even predicts the future. (You have to bury some chicken bones and some other stuff to get

the last feature).

Reticle Focus

The first thing we will talk about is reticle focus. In order for the sniper to obtain precise mil

readings the reticle must be properly focused. If the reticle is out of focus, the reticle will

appear fuzzy and go in and out of focus as the eye attempts to zero in on it. Not only will mil

readings be difficult to obtain but the sniper will also suffer eye fatigue over long periods

behind the scope as the muscles of the eye attempt to maintain focus. Steps for focusing a

scope's reticle are:

y Look at a distant object (about 300 yards) and allow your eyes to become focused on it.y Quickly look through the scope at the sky or a blank wall and check to see if the reticle is

immediately sharp and crisp. If it is, then no further adjustment is needed.y If your eye has to re-focus AT ALL on the reticle then proceed.

y Grasp the eyepiece and back it away from the lock-ring. Turn the eyepiece several turns soas to move at least 1/8". It will take this much change to achieve any measurable effect onthe focus. Then repeat step one.

y If the image is better, continue to turn the eyepiece in the same direction. If it is worse, turnthe eyepiece the other way and repeat the previous steps until the image of the reticle issharp and crisp immediately upon looking into the scope.

y Do this several times. Taking the focus past the point of best focus and back again will helpto ensure you have the clearest setting. Then lock up the eyepiece by screwing the lock-ringback to the eyepiece.

y Some scopes feature a quick-adjust eyepiece and therefore simplify this operation.

Target/Objective Focus

One area that is often overlooked when ranging with mil dots

is target focus. If the target is out of focus it will either read slightly larger or smaller than it

should when properly focused.

There have been many occasions while working as an instructor where I have found

students do worse on ranging with mil dots than with binoculars or even the naked eye.



Most of the time this ceases to be a problem after they begin ensuring that both the

objective and the reticle are sharply focused.

Ambient Light Conditions

As with all other methods of range estimation that uses the sniper's eyes, the nature of the

ambient light conditions can affect the sniper's ability to obtain an accurate mil reading.

Effects such as glare, mirage, haze/fog can obscure the target or alter how the sniper sees

the edges of the target which will all cause inaccurate readings. In order to deal with this, a

sniper must practice obtaining mil readings in all weather conditions and take notes as to

corrections that he must make in those conditions. For example a sniper knows that in

foggy conditions he needs to add .1 mil to his mil readings or in bright sunny conditions he

has to subtract .1 mil on light colored targets due to glare. So practice obtaining distances

with your scope in all conditions and confirm distances with a laser range finder. Keep notes

as to how different light conditions alter your mil readings.

Hang on a minute!! Use a laser range finder to confirm distances? You are probably asking,

"Then why the hell worry about mil dots if I have a laser range finder?" Well, have you ever

had batteries die on you or have a piece of electronics go belly up? Also, have you heard of

laser detectors? Besides, mildot reticles have other uses besides ranging. OK, now that

we've cleared that up I'll continue.

OK, let's look at what we have up to this point. We've learned that we have to make sure

our reticle and target are in focus. No problem here as we should have these items under

control anyway. We've had to either learn a simple formula or buy a The Mil Dot Master. No

big deal here either. All we are left with now is to figure out how to measure objects with the

reticle. Let's see if there are any major obstacles here.

Reading the Dots

The precision tactical shooter must be able to obtain accurate

mil readings to the tenth of a mil. This is where it is important to know the sub-tensions on

your reticle. For example, I know in my Leupold 3.5 x 10 M3 LR with the USMC stamped

wire reticle pattern, the dots themselves are .25 mils and the posts are 1 mil wide when the

scope is at maximum magnification (more on this in a minute). In Leupold scopes with



round, dot-etched glass reticles the dots are .22 mils in diameter and the posts are .5 mils

wide. This enables me to break the reticle down as in the illustrations above left.

The importance of being precise on your readings becomes evident when working at long

range. For example, if a 40-inch target (the size of a kneeling man) is incorrectly measured

at 1.5 mils it would range out to 740 yards where if the correct reading were 1.6 mils itwould actually be at 693 yards. Assuming there is 5 MOA drop with a .308 between 700 and

800 yards you could be dialing on around 2 MOA too much elevation. At 700 yards that is

14 inches and may put you over the target depending on your aiming area. So here are

some helpful tips when measuring a target.

y Have a steady rest for your rifle. Just as steady as when you are firing. Lay the rifle on itsside if you have to.

y Use a post for one end of the measuring scale if possible. This will give you a clear point for one end of your measurement.

y Make sure the target/reticle are focused.

y Practice obtaining mil readings on targets at known distance. Using the formula given abovedetermine how many mils a target should read then work on it until you can see thatmeasurement in the scope.

Variable Power Scopes

My last tip there brings up an interesting point in regards to variable power scopes with mil

dot reticles. Most American variable power scopes do not magnify the reticle along with the

target. In other words the reticle remains the same size as the target image zooms. This

can wreak havoc if you try to measure a target at the wrong magnification, as the dots will

only equal 1 milliradian at one magnification setting. Knowing what magnification setting

your scope is set up to use the dots on is CRITICAL to getting accurate readings. Most

scopes are set up to use their highest power setting and some have an index mark on the

power ring. One problem I've noted with the variable power scopes is that the setting that

the factory tells you to use can often be off a bit. I've had students be constantly off on

readings by 1 or 2 tenths and get flustered as hell. Some of this can be due to out of focus

reticles but many of them figure out that the index mark is off a hair. By using the barber

pole I mentioned earl lier, you can find the EXACT point where the mil dots subtend

precisely 1 mil. As a side note you can also find the point where the dots equal 2 mils and

other readings.

Other uses of the Mil Dot Reticle

I think we've pretty much exhausted material on the mil dot reticle as a ranging tool. I will

now go into its other uses in establishing alternate aiming points for moving targets,

elevation/windage hold-offs and quick follow-up shots. As with any tool in our toolbox, the

more we know about it the better off we are. If I can use a piece of gear for more than one

purpose it becomes more valuable than a highly specialized piece of gear such as a laser



range finder. (Although lasers make nice paperweights and Frisbees when their batteries

die or the light conditions render them useless.) These other uses are just as valuable as

the primary range finding purpose of the mil dot reticle.

Leads for Moving Targets

When a shooter is training on moving targets he should be taught to calculate leads for

moving targets knowing the targets speed, time of flight of the bullet and the targets

direction of movement. The formula is:

Time of flight (sec) x Speed of target (fps) = Lead from center-mass in feet

(full value lead)

Since it is easiest to establish a lead from a target's leading edge and we want a lead in

mils we will then use the formula:

(Lead in feet x 12) ? 6

(Range x .01) x 3.4

We can now use our mil dot reticle to hold off instead of having to guess at target widths

and other not-so accurate methods. This formula is a bit ungainly to use in tactical

situations, and it doesn't take into account different shooters' reaction times, but it should be

used in training to determine starting leads when engaging live fire moving targets. The

shooter then fine tunes his leads and writes them in his data book.

Elevation/Windage Hold-Offs

Mil dot reticles can also be used for alternate aiming points for elevation and windage holds,

as there are often situations where a sniper may not have time to dial on his elevation and

sight settings. Snipers often have to deal with targets that appear unexpectedly, multiple

targets at different distances, gusting winds of varying direction and the thing we all don't

want to think about, a miss or an insufficient hit. In these situations the shooter often doesn't

have time to deal with turret caps, 1/4 MOA target turrets, or in the case of the miss or

insufficient hit, changing the sights. In these occasions, WHEN EXTREME PRECISION IS

NOT A REQUIREMENT, it is better to establish an alternate aiming point with the mil dot

reticle and hit the target.

Windage Hold-Offs

When the USMC Unertl scope first came out in 1981-82, it only had 4 MOA of windage in

each direction. As anyone who has shot past 300 yards knows, that isn't enough windage tohandle win drift caused by your buddy's heavy breathing from the next firing point. So we

had to use the mil dots for windage. This is a simple feat if you just remember that 1 mil is

3.5 MOA. So if I need 3.5 minutes of right windage I leave "0" windage on the windage knob

and hold 1 mil dot right of center mass. If I need 4 MOA then I hold a tad more than 1 mil

dot. 2 mils? Hey, remember when we broke the mil dot reticle down for precise

measurements when determining distances? It's the same deal with wind hold-offs. Break



the mils into thirds and you have 1 MOA hold points; OK, so it's 1.13 MOA hold-offs, big

deal.

Elevation Hold-Offs

Now let's talk about elevation hold-offs. In order for us to use a mil dot reticle for elevation

holds we have to determine from what sight setting we will be holding off from. In most

situations this will mean that we will leave a certain sight setting on the rifle when not set for

a specific target. This is very similar to the military battle-sight zero concept where an

M16A2 is zeroed for 300 meters, which allows the rifleman to engage targets from 0-325

meters by just aiming center mass. In US Army doctrine with the M24 sniper weapon

system and M118LR ammunition (175 gr. Sierra BTHP @ 2600 fps) the sniper leaves his

500m zero on the scope with zero windage. Then by using the elevation holds in the chart

below, he can get rounds on target without taking the time to change his elevation setting.

Another use for mil dots is when we have to engage multiple targets at different distances

and we have time to set it up. We know that if we have to engage a target at 600 yards then

drop down to 300 yards and dr op another one all we have to do is calculate the elevation

difference between 300 and 600 yards then dial on the elevation for 600 and hold low for

the 300 yard shot. In this case I know that there is 7.5 MOA difference between the 600 and

300 yard shot. So after engaging the 600 yard target with my 600 yard sight setting, since it

is the more difficult shot, I will then hold 2 mils under the 300 yard target and engage it. The

.5 MOA error (1.5 inches at 300 yards) in hold is nothing to worry about in MOST situations.

Follow-up Shots

The last thing I will talk about in regards to the mil dot reticle is its usefulness when firing

rapid follow-up shots when a quick correction in elevation or windage is required. In these

situations a follow-up shot is needed quickly! If the first shot was a miss, it won't take the

target long to figure out what is going on. If he is trained or just real smart, as soon as he

hears the crack of the round or some result of its impact he is gonna move. But in many

situations the target won't move due to ambient noise masking the shot or just plain

stupidity as in the case of the FBI field SWAT snipers that got off 3 shots at a hostage taker

without the perp figuring out what was going on. (In this case the sniper's shots were hitting

a low wall in front of the rifle that the sniper didn't know was in the way. The third shot hit

home after the sniper raised his position.)

In the case of a well fired shot that missed or was off-center, the observer can give the

sniper an alternate aiming point using the mil dots as with windage holds. If the shot was at

200 yards and it was 4 inches (2 MOA) low, the observer tells the sniper to hold 2/3 mil high

and fire again. This is all assuming of course that the sniper calls the first shot a good shot.

If he called the shot low, then the sniper should fire center again and pay attention to the

fundamentals this time.



And you thought that all mil dots were for was range estimation, didn't you?

I hope this information has shown you that mil dots are a valuable aid for the precision

tactical shooter/sniper. It may seem like a lot of information at first but as you absorb this

stuff remember that much of it can be simplified with aids like cheat sheets, crib notes and

through the use of devices like the The Mil Dot Master even us Neanderthals can handle mildots. Those that can't or refuse to use them are missing out on a valuable tool. But that's

OK. Those batteries in that laser are probably OK.

By Kent W. Gooch, CWO2, USMC (ret)

The MilDot Reticle

Simply put, the Mil-Dot is a range estimating reticle that was developed for militaryapplications. The space between the dot centers subtends one milliradian (Mil). One Mil

subtends 3.6" at 100 yards, or 36" at 1,000 yards.

This reticle was developed in the late 1970s to help U.S. Marine snipers estimate distances,

and is now standard for all military branches. The space between dot centers subtends one

milliradian (mil) hence the name mil-dot. Contrary to popular belief it does not stand for

"military dot". One mil subtends 3.6 inches at 100 yards or 36 inches at 1,000 yards. To use

this system effectively you must know the size of the target. For instance most people are

an average of 6 feet tall or 2 yards. The formula used for determining range to the target is

(size of target x 1000 divided by number of mils the target covers).Height of target (yards) X 1,000 = Range (yards)/

Height of target (mils)

You can do these calculations with a calculator or use a reference table like the ones listed

below. But remember that your answer is only as accurate as the numbers you plug into the

formula. An error of just a 1/4 mil will cause an error in target range. Also an error in

estimating the size of your target will cause an error in target range.

The top line on the table represents the size of the target as measured in feet or inches.

The second line represents the conversion of the foot measurements to yards. The left

column shows the mil measurements to the nearest 1/2 mil. The mil scale can be split to the

nearest 1/8 mil for a more accurate range measurement. To use the table follow the

instructions below.

1. Estimate height of target and locate across the top.2. Measure height of target in mils and locate down the side.3. Move down from the top and right from the side to find the range in yards.



Range Estimating with the Mil-Dot Reticle

Dots are spaced in one mil (milliradian) increments on the crosshair. Using the mil formula,

a table can be created like the ones above that is based on the size of the object being

targeted. Just look through the scope, bracket the object between dots, and refer to the

table for an estimated distance to target.

The radian is a unit-less measure which is equivalent in use to degrees. It tells you how far

around a circle you have gone. 2 PI radians = 360 degrees. Using 3.14 as the value of PI,

6.28 radians take you all the way around a circle. Using a Cartesian coordinate system, you

can use "x"- and "y"-values to define any point on the plane. Radians are used in a

coordinate system called "polar coordinates." A point on the plane is defined, in the polar

coordinate system, using the radian and the radius. The radian defines the amount of

rotation and the radius gives the distance from the origin (in a negative or positive direction).

The radian is another measurement of rotation (the degree/minute/second-system being the

first). This is the system used in the mil-dot reticle. We use the same equation that we used

before, but, instead of your calculator being in "degree" mode, switch it to "radian" mode.

One milliradian = 1/1000 (.001) radians. So, type .001 into your calculator and hit the

"tangent" button. Then multiply this by "distance to the target." Finally, multiply this by 36 to

get inches subtended at the given distance. With the calculator in "radian" mode, type:

tangent(.001)*100*36 = 3.6000012

So one milliradian is just over 3.6 inches at 100 yards. If we extrapolate, two milliradian

equal about 6 feet at one-thousand yards.

The mil-dot reticle was designed around the measurement unit of the milliradian. The dots

themselves were designed with this in mind and the spacing of the dots was also based

upon the milliradian. This allows the shooter to calculate the distance to an object of knownheight or width. Height of the target in yards divided by the height of the target in

milliradians multiplied by 1000 equals the distance to the target in yards. For example, take

a 6-foot-tall man (2 yards). Let's say that the top of his head lines up with one dot and his

feet line up four dots down. So: (2/4)*1000 = 500 yards away. This same technique can be

used to estimate lead on a moving target or to compensate for deflection on a windy day.

The distance from the center of one dot to the center of the next dot is 1 milliradian. We are

told (by Leupold) that the length of a dot on one of their reticles is 1/4 milliradian (Given this

much information, one can determine that the distance between dots is 3/4 milliradian.).* I

use the term "length" because the mil-dot is not round in all cases. It is oblong in somescopes and round in others (Tasco). The width of each dot is an arbitrary distance and is

not used for any practical purpose. Like a duplex reticle, the mil-dot reticle is thicker toward

the edges and uses thin lines in the middle where the dots are located and the crosshairs

cross. The distance between the opposite thick portions is 10 milliradian on Leupold

scopes.



*NOTE: 1/4 milliradian = .9" and 3/4 MOA = .785", so, obviously, a mil-dot cannot be both

1/4 milliradian and 3/4 MOA. The maker of the mil-dot reticles for Leupold explains: the dots

on their mil-dot reticles are 1/4 mil. They are not 3/4 MOA. Apparently, Leupold just figured

that more shooters understand MOA than milliradian, so they just gave a figure (in MOA)

that was close, but not super precise.To use a mil-dot reticle effectively, all one need remember is that the distance between dot

centers is 36" at 1000 yards. This lets you determine the range of a target of known size. At

that point, you can dial the scope in for proper elevation OR use the dots to hold over the

proper amount. The dots on the horizontal crosshair can be used to lead a target (if you

know the range to the target, then you'll know the distance between dots, and thus the

distance to lead) or to compensate for deflection.

If you own a mil-dot scope or are going to in the future you need to check out this new

product called The Mil Dot Master .

Minute-Of-AngleThe term "minute-of-angle" (MOA) is used regularly by target shooters at the range, but is

probably understood thoroughly by few (the same goes for mil-dots). Defined loosely, one

MOA = 1" @ 100 yards; so, if you shot your rifle 5 times into a 100-yard target and every

shot went into a one-inch circle you had drawn on the paper, then your rifle could be said to

shoot 1 MOA. Likewise, if every shot goes into a two-inch circle at 200 yards, then you're

shooting 1 MOA. A 10-inch group at 500 yards would be 2 MOA.

Now for the fun part. There are 360 degrees in a circle. Each degree can be broken down

further into minutes. There are 60 minutes in a degree. Likewise, there are 60 seconds in a

minute. Now, to figure out the distance subtended by 1 minute at any particular distance, weneed merely to plug those two values into a simple trigonometric equation. The tangent

function fits the bill nicely. Here's the equation:

tan(angle) = distance subtended/distance to the target

(units must be consistent--e.g., 1/36 of a yard [1"] divided by 100 yards)

Now, we know the angle (1 minute or 1/60 of a degree) and we know the distance to the

target (100 yards), but we need to figure out the actual distance subtended at the target

(i.e., is 1 MOA actually 1" @ 100 yards?). What we need to do is solve for "distance

subtended." Here's our final equation:

tan(angle)*distance to the target = distance subtended

Make sure your calculator is in "degree" mode (as opposed to "radian" or "gradian") and

type in 1/60 (for degrees) and hit the "tangent" button. Then multiply that by 100 yards. This

should give you the distance (in yards) subtended at 100 yards. Multiply this by 36 to get

inches. The answer should be:

1.047197580733"



This is just a hair over the commonly quoted "one inch." At 1000 yards, this would be almost

10 1/2 inches. Apparently, it is just a coincidence that 1 MOA happens to be REALLY close

to 1" @ 100 yards. It is, however, quite convenient.

A Note From the Leupold Engineers

What is a Mil (Mil Dot Reticle)

There seems to be quite an urban legend surrounding the "different mills". Here's a brief

history on the military mil and its comparison to the milliradian. Sometime prior to WWI with

the advent of precision artillery, the military decided to come up with a precision compass

unit. The milliradian was in the ballpark of what they were looking for, but 6283.19

milliradians to 360 degrees would have made the math difficult. So the military shrank the

milliradian by about 2%, and wound up with 6400 mills to 360 degrees. Why 6400 versus a

simple rounding to 6300??? Well 6400 is easily divisible by 8, which corresponds to the

primary cardinal directions (i.e. N, NE, E, SE, S, SW, W, NW) and their subdivisions. So (as

far as I know), that is how the military "mil" was created. The mil dot reticles that we

produce are based on the milliradian. The reason we do that, is that it fulfills the 1000 to 1

ranging ratio which the military wanted. What this means is that 1 milliradian will subtend a

1 meter target at 10 00 meters (or a 1 yard target at 1000 yards, a 1 foot target at 1000

feet.....you get the picture). The milliradian does this exactly, thus it was chosen. Now when

we compare the military "compass mil" and the milliradian, they are rather close: 1.02military mills (3.375 moa) = 1.00 milliradian (3.439 moa). As you can see the difference is

miniscule.....it roughly corresponds to a 2 centimeter difference on a 1 meter target at 1000

meters, or a 2 millimeter difference on a 1 meter target at 100 meters. That's a 0.079"!!!! So

even with a 1/4 moa barrel and 1/4 moa adjustments on the scope itself, it would make no

difference to the shooter whether he calculates the distance using the milliradian or the mil.

As far as ranging is concerned, the difference is similar: using the military mil, a 1 meter

target at 1000 meters would be ranged at 980 meters. At 100 meters, the 1 meter target

would be ranged at 98 meters. I seriously doubt whether anyone can actually use a mil dot

reticle to that degree of accurac y anyway. In practicality, most modern military cartridgesdo not drop like a rock. If one is shooting out to 1000 meters, they are using a 300 WM or a

338 Lapua, which will not have a significant enough drop in the 1000 meter ballpark to

reflect a 20 meter difference. So, as you can see the difference between the two is rather

insignificant to all but a few world class bench rest shooters (if that).



Mil Dots as aiming points

Utilizing Mil Dots as aiming points, that is the "Dots" of the mil dot system, requires knowing

which Dot to use for each 50/100 yd increment for the entire trajectory of your bullet. The

Dots designated for long range will have to be the aiming point for a series of yardageincrements. The amount of hold from target center will be different for each increment

depending on the distance. You may have to hold the designated Dot low from target center

for one 50 yd increment, then high for the next 50 yds. There is no consistent pattern to go

by. Each high and low hold from target center will range anywhere from several inches to a

few feet depending on the distance. For some long-range shots, you will have to place the

appropriate Dot literally above or below your target for the proper bullet drop compensation.

This provides no real aiming point to focus on which is a crucial factor for accurate long

range shooting. The disadvantages of utilizing Mil Dots as aiming points for bullet drop

compensation are a s follows: The limited number of Mil Dots having to be utilized as aimingpoints for so many yardage increments creates the problem of so many different holds on

your target. Shooting at high altitudes or extreme temperatures requires different holds than

that applied for the field conditions at your home range. The size of a Dot covers up too

much of your target for a precise shot at long, as well as, medium ranges. The dot

completely covers up small or partially concealed targets at medium to long-range

engagement. You cannot be dialed in at an appropriate yardage setting with the Mil Dot

system. The Mil Dot system should be used for what it was designed for which is range

finding.

Why is Leupold Mil Dot reticle a round dot reticle? Detailed investigation of the military and law enforcement market preferences indicated that

the most widely used design is a round dot mil dot reticle. As neither design is superior to

the other, the intent of Leupold's choice was to provide the style that was most familiar to

our military and law enforcement customers, as indicated by their own previously expressed

preferences.



Mil Dot Reticle

The Mil. Dot reticle is available for all tactical scopes. The Mil. Dot is also available for the

LPS 3.5-14x50mm Side Focus, Vari-X III 2.5-8x36mm, Vari-X III 6.5-20x50mm Adj. Obj,

Vari-X III 6.5-20x50mm Long Range Target, M8-6x42mm Adj. Obj. Target, and the Vari-X II

4-12x40mm Adj. Obj. An illuminated Mil. Dot reticle is available in the following illuminatedreticle scopes: Vari-X III 3.5-10x50mm Illuminated Reticle Scope (matte), Vari-X III 4.5-

14x50mm Adj. Obj. Illuminated Reticle Scope (matte), Vari-X III 3.5-10x40mm Long Range

M1 Illuminated Reticle Scope (matte), and our Vari-X III 3.5-10x40mm Long Range M3

Illuminated Reticle Scope (matte). The Mil. Dot reticle is a range finding reticle originally

developed for military applications. The space between dot centers subtends one

milliradian(mil). One mil. subtends 3.6 inches at 100 yards or 36 inches at 1,000 yards. To

use this system effectively you must know the size of the target. Please note that your Mil.

Dot reticle was calibrated to be used at one magnification. If your scope is a 3.5-10 the

correct magnification is 10x. On the 4.5-14 use 14x. On the 6.5-20 use 10x, or double the

distance determined on 20x. The use of any other magnification will yield inaccurate results.

Height of target (yards) X 1,000/Height of target (mils) =Range (yards)

Range Estimating With The Mil. Dot Reticle

With practice, the Mil Dot system is simple to use. Dots are spaced in one mil (milliradian)

increments on the crosshair. Using the mil formula, the shooter can create a table based on

the known size of the object targeted. Just look through the scope, bracket the object

between dots, and refer to the table for an estimated distance to the target. Leupold scopes

fitted with the Mil Dot reticle include more specific instructions on its use.

User Guide

This guide is intended to provide the user of a Mil-Dot equipped optic with information on

what the reticle is used for, the basics of its use and how to train yourself to better employ

and realize the full potential of this reticle.

How to use Mil-DotsI am sure that most of you have skipped right to this page, as you want to jump ahead and

get to using the optic. I have to HIGHLY recommend that you at least look at the diagrams

and values associated with the reticle patterns listed under specifications. All right then, lets

get to it. The vast majority of users will employ the optic primarily to estimate range, some

will also use it to hold for wind and some will use it to calculate and hold leads on moving

targets. I will address the latter two uses further into this instruction.



Range Estimation

There are two components to range estimation; the mechanics and the math. The

mechanics encompass the physical methods of placing the reticle on the target and reading

the reticle. The math is taking the "mils read" and converting it to a usable range.

The Mechanics

This is definitely the hardest part of range estimation using the mil dot reticle. It requires the

shooter/use to place the reticle on the target (of known size), hold it long enough to

accurately read it (depending how accurate you are trying to be to the nearest .1 mil).

Whenever the majority of people think of a reticle on a target they envision the center of the

cross hair placed on the desired point of impact (POI). In order to use a mil dot reticle to

estimate range the shooter/user can use a variety of methods, all of which produce the

same results. The main differences in the methods are what the shooter/user is most

comfortable with and what the target is exposing.

The MOST important aspect of using the mil dot reticle for range estimation is a STEADY

HOLD on the target. As you use the reticle, you will realize just how hard it really is to hold

the reticle on the target. Most shooters will tend to move the reticle in the direction that they

are reading, however many shooters will do the opposite. The shooter must practice

shooting positions to determine what is best. All but the best shooters are able to hold a

rifle/optic steady enough without a rest or support to accurately read the reticle. Shootersshould ALWAYS seek to use some form of rest, bipod, sling etc. to develop a STABLE,

DURABLE, and SUSTAINABLE shooting platform. When attempting to estimate range of

living (for now) objects, it is imperative that the shooter be practiced and be able to read the

scale quickly and accurately because they never stay in one place very long so. In order to

develop this skill the shooter must practice, practice and practice (we will cover practice

techniques later) using the reticle against targets at different ranges and of different sizes.



Additionally the shooter should try all of the methods to determine which he/she prefers and

the advantages/disadvantages of each.

Reading the Reticle

In order to use the reticle you must be able to read it. As mentioned elsewhere in this

manual you must be able to read the reticle to the nearest .1 mil. Please refer to the

diagrams depicted in SPECIFICATIONS for a break down of the specific reticles. Here is a

generic break down of a mil dot reticle:

The picture is not to scale but provided to illuminate the

discussion. Notice that what is depicted is not to the nearest .1 mil. To do so to scale the

drawing would be too crowded to be useful. As depicted the .25, .5 and .75 mil are usually

easy to find, the user must find the .3, .4, .6, etc locations. Keep in mind that although there

is not an exact point annotated on the reticle, it behooves the shooter to learn to

"guesstimate" where these points on the reticle are to lessen the range estimation error.

Regardless of which method you are going to use, you MUST know the target size (you will

see this again). For the sake of this document, we will use the following;

You will notice that Gordy the Ground Hog is 10 inches tall when he stands, which in your

world is the average ground hog height.

Once you have the target size you have to decide on which method to use in order to obtain

a mil reading. Here are some of the more popular methods;

Cross Hair Method



As the name applies, this method uses the center of the

cross hair placed at a point on the target then the reticle is read up, down, left or right. Keep

in mind that the cross hair can be placed on any point and the target and mils read from

there. This is the most widely used method because it is the most natural, placing the cross

hairs on the target.

Heavy Post Method

Similar to the cross hair method, the heavy post located on any

of the four sides (top, bottom, left and right) is placed onto a base line and then mils read

from there. The benefit of this method is that the heavy post is easier for most people to

hold on a distant target (especially older shooters).

Mil-Dot Method



Again, like the other two methods, a distinct aiming point is

placed on the target and mils read from there. In this case, a dot is use verses the cross

hair or a heavy post. This method is favored by some because the dots are easy to place on

the target and for some easier to hold. One thing to keep in mind is that you are already into

the mil scale when you place the reticle on the target and you must factor this into your calculations. Again remember, you MUST begin reading at the BASE DOT or factor its

value is you begin elsewhere (i.e. if you begin reading from the top of the post as depicted

above the reading would be 3.4 mils verses if you begin at the base dot which would be 2.4

mil and would be CORRECT).

The Math

There are two ways that you can derive range using a mil dot equipped optic, to manually

compute it either by long hand or by using an electronic calculator OR to use one of several

shooter aids that are on the market. The most notable shooter aid available is the Mil Dot

Master� a slide rule type device, which provides the shooter with the ability to line up "mils

read" with the target size in inches and gives you the range to the target. The other "device"

is what is termed a "cheat sheet" and resembles a spreadsheet depicting mils read on

normally the left side and target sizes across the top. By intersecting the two, you arrive at

the range to the target.

While these devices are definitely handy, anyone using this reticle should know the math

associated with it so that when they forget the device or cheat sheet they can still use the

reticle to its maximum ability. Therefore, we will begin with the math (long way) of doing this.

CalculationsUsing a mil dot reticle is a mathematical proposition requiring some calculating in order to

arrive at a solution. For range estimation problems there are three components; target size

(Tz), mils read (m) and range (R). You MUST have two of the three to arrive at the third

component. Most commonly, the shooter will know the target size and by using the reticle

will arrive at mils read, here are the formulas;



Target size (in yards) x 1000 / Mils read = yards to target

Target size (in meters) x 1000 / Mils read = meters to target

In short: Tz / R = m

I am sure you notice that target size is required in yards or meters. Most of the time you

know your target in inches (varmints), therefore the below formulas will help you convert

and arrive at a usable range. The first formula for each is the easiest but not the most

precise. Try them all out and decide for yourself what is best;

I am sure you notice that target size is required in yards or meters. Most of the time you

know your target in inches (varmints), therefore the below formulas will help you convert

and arrive at a usable range. The first formula for each is the easiest but not the most

precise. Try them all out and decide for yourself what is best;

For Meters:

y Object size (in) divided by 39 x 1000 divided by mils ready Object size (in) x 25.4 divided by mils read

For Yards:

y Object size (in) divided by 36 x 1000 divided by mils ready Object size (in) x 27.77 divided by mils read

Lets try this out; You are a varmint hunter and looking down range you see a fat ground hog

that happens to stand up looking around. You think he is 10 inches tall and place your

reticle on him. You mil Mr. Ground hog at .6 mils, plugging what you now have into the

formula this is the result;

y 10 inches divided by 36 x 1000 divided by .6 equals 462 yards ORy 10 inches x 27.77 divided by .6 equals 462 yards ORy 10 inches divided by 39 x 1000 divided by .6 equals 427 meters ORy 10 inches x 25.4 divided by .6 equals 423 meters

Shooter Aids



As mentioned above, you can also enlist the help of a shooter aid

such as the Mil Dot Master� (MDM) that will take the math out of this effort and provide youwith an quick firing solution. The MDM is easy to use and will offer the shooter with more

options than most will ever need (such as slant range corrections). For those interested in

the MDM, I encourage you to visit their web site at www.mildot.com where you can use a

virtual example. One lat word on the MDM, you MUST read the instructions and understand

them for it to work, it is NOT magic and will not do all the work for you.

Another form of shooter aide is what is termed a "cheat sheet". This is a spreadsheet like

form that shows mils read on one side and target size across the top. This is a simplified

version of the MDM but does not require any sliding or moving of anything. Down side is

that it only does one thing, provide range from target size and mils read. I will provide a

larger version of this diagram at the end of this manual.

So you can see Mr. Ground Hog is about to have some problems if you can also call the

wind and hold the target which brings us to the next subject, using the reticle to hold for

wind.

How to Train at Range Estimation

Here are some pointers for increasing your range estimation skill:



y Construct several targets of known dimension such as 1-yard square (the more the better)and number so that the number can be seen from a distance (the number should be aboutthe size of the target)

y Place these targets out at various ranges ensuring that they can be seen from the startpoint if possible across varied terrain. The targets should be placed in locations that areaccessible by vehicle to allow using the odometer. Do not determine range as you areemplacing the targets, which will only jade your efforts.

y Return to the start point and with a note pad number, the left side with the number of targetsyou have put out.

y Now, without aid look at the targets you have put out and estimate the range by eye. Writedown this figure on your pad next to the corresponding target number. This will help youdevelop your "by eye" skills and assist you in estimating range by optics.

y After you have finished the "by eye" method, take up a stable shooting position with your UNLOADED rifle or mil dot equipped spotting scope.

y Using the above techniques, mil the targets writing down the mil reading after eachcorresponding number.

y Do the math or use the shooter aid to determine the range.

y Using the odometer (or other method such as laser range finder, map, etc) determine theactual range to the targets.

y Compare this to what you determined by eye and using mils.y You can also do the same as above by leaving the targets in place and moving your

position.y You can also vary target size and using the calculations or shooter aid determine the

range/s.

Routine exercises as above will develop your ability to accurately and quickly estimate the

range to any target.

Wind Hold OffsHolding off for wind although simple sounding is an extremely difficult proposition and next

to range estimation the most difficult of all shooter SKILLS to master. We could devote

pages to this issue and describe a variety of methods to determine wind, however this

manual is about mils not wind calling. We cannot however talk about using mils to hold off

winds without at least discussing winds a little.

There are three components to calling wind, identifying the wind velocity in mph, identifying

wind direction, and identifying wind value in minutes of angle or mils (derived from the

speed). There are several ways to accomplish these three things;

WIND VELOCITY: Wind velocity is normally expressed in miles per hour (mph) or perhapskilometers per hour (kph). Either way, wind has a speed that must be identified/recognized.

There are two ways to determine wind; use of an instrument to measure it or by visual

indicators. The next aspect is where to measure/read the wind; at the shooters position, mid

range or at the target. Without getting too deep into this issue I will share how I do it and

you can make up your own mind.



I use visual indicators (mirage and vegetation) to identify the wind velocity and direction. I

do this because I am a tactical shooter and cannot afford to use an instrument at my

position without compromising it. I look at the wind at mid range and at the target because

this is where the bullet is under the most contact with the wind.

There are other sources that can give you what the value of mirage or waving vegetation is,therefore I will not go into it here suffice to say that like the rest of this issue PRACTICE,

PRACTICE, PRACTICE are the keys to being able to identify and call the wind.

Once you have determined the wind speed and direction, you can give it a value in MOA or

Mils. The moa or mil value is normally developed through the use of ballistic charts from a

variety of sources (like Sierra Bullets http://www.sierrabullets.com/software/index.cfm). The

value will be dependent of bullet weight, muzzle velocity, wind speed and range to target.

Most experienced shooters "SWAG" the wind and shoot, what they "feel" is right. By doing,

this they develop experience in what a given wind is worth in mils or minutes (note: you

need to build the experience from correct speeds and values, therefore you will have to

measure it in the beginning). If you determine the wind in moa you must convert it to mils

then hold that IN THE DIRECTION OF THE WIND. Of course, it is much easier to

determine the wind in mils thus eliminating the need to convert. Wind in mils will normally be

in quarters (1/4, ½, ¾, etc) keeping in mind that one-mil equals 3.375 or 3.438 moa

depending on the reticle you are using.

Lets recap; if you are looking down range at a target located 300 yards from you and you

determine there to be an 8 mph left to right wind present at the target. Consulting a handy

wind chart you see that the wind is worth 2 moa. In order to figure out the mil hold off you

have to determine what 2 moa is equates to in mils. Since there is 3.375 moa in a mil, 2

moa is 59% of a mil or just over a ½ mil hold TO THE LEFT. That is you place the center of

the reticle ½ mil to the left of the target to compensate for the wind.

Training On Calling Wind

Like everything else, this requires practice, practice and more practice. Unlike range

estimation, wind calling will require you to also shoot to confirm or deny your call. One way

to gain experience is to attend competitions even as an observer and watch experienced

shooter deal with the wind. There you can see calls (you will have to make some friends

there first) and the results on the target. I should mention the use of so-called "Kentucky"

windage, which is usually firing multiple rounds until a hit is obtained. This may be

applicable for some of you. In order to develop a skill at calling wind, you must start using

known wind, for this an anemometer (wind meter) is needed. Look at the wind, make a

guess and then measure it. Over time, your skill will increase to the point that you will

become accurate.



Moving Targets

Some of you will use the mil dot reticle to engage moving targets. This is an extremely

difficult task not to mention hard to practice. Professional shooters will use known distance

ranges with moving targets to practice this skill.

There are three levels of movers; walkers, fast walk or slow run (trot) and run. You notice

that I have not listed "dead sprint" or fast run, this is because engaging targets at these

speeds is beyond the scope of most shooters and should not be attempted unless you are

extremely skilled. Of the three speeds, you can of course further sub-divide them but you

only make it harder to identify. Like wind, you must be able to determine target speed from

which you can determine a "lead". A lead will be determined by not only target speed but

also range to the target and caliber being used. You can mathematically calculate a lead by

using a good ballistics program like that offered by Sierra Bullets to determine the "Time Of

Flight" of a given projectile/caliber for a given distance. You might want to take a look at the

delivered energy at that range to see where your limits should be with reference to the

ability to drop the target. Once you have the TOF and range you then factor in rifle lock time

and target speed to arrive at a lead.

The math that is involved here is pretty simple, but requires a little "computing". Say we are

looking at a walking Deer. Lets say that the deer moves at 2 mph; seeing as how there are

5280 feet in 1 mile, therefore there are 10560 feet in 2 miles, divide this by 60 (60 minutes

in an hour) and we arrive at 176 feet in a minute, divided by 60 (60 seconds in a minute)

and we arrive at 2.93 feet per second. We are shooting a .308 Winchester from 300 yards

using 168 grain Match King (I know it is not a preferred hunting bullet) with a muzzle

velocity of 2650 feet per second and a TOF of .382677903 seconds (to travel the 300yards). We are shooting a Remington 700 BDL with a lock time (time it takes the firing pin to

hit and ignite the primer) of .003 seconds. Therefore, we add the lock time to the TOF to

arrive at a total time from trigger being pulled until the bullet impacts at the target area



equals .3856779 seconds (TOF plus lock time).

We now have to figure out how far our target will move in the amount of time it takes for the

bullet to get there. As we said the deer is moving at a speed of 2.93 fps divided by 12 gives

us 35.16 inches per second. Taking this number we multiply the Total Time of Flight (TTOF)

to arrive at a distance of 13.5 inches, or better said the deer will move 13.5 inches in the

time it takes the bullet to reach him. 13.5 inches equals 4.5 minutes of angle at 300 yards (1

moa @ 300 yards equals 3 inches). With the given 3.375 minutes of angle to one Mil, we

now arrive at a hold of 1.3 mils but since 1.3 Mil is not in the reticle, we have to use 1.25 or

1 ¼ Mils. Here it is graphically;

How to Train

As noted in the beginning of this section this skill is extremely difficult to train. However, if

you have the means or devise some way of making a moving target in an area where you

can train you should do so at every opportunity. Here are some pointers;

y Start with known target speed, preferably slow and build speed as skill increases. Do notincrease target speed until you can hit them 90% or better all of the time.

y Use a target size that at a minimum replicates the kill zone of your intended target. In thebeginning, a larger target should be used to show hits to allow you to adjust your leads/actions.

y Begin training at close ranges, i.e. 50 yards. Work your way back as your skill increases.y You should use a partner positioned slightly behind your shoulder of your shooting side with

a spotting scope that is as close to the line of bore as possible. He should look for bullettrace (vapor trail of the bullet) and provide you with feedback as to where the bullet is going.

Mil Dot Illustrations and Explanations

how to get the most out of your mil

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