HOW TO DO A MUSHROOM CULTIVATION WORKSHOP FOR YOUR CLUB – LOGS

(Rough draft) By John Plischke First you need to decide if you want to cultivate logs, make kits or do both. I typically like to do both providing the equipment, spawn and volunteers are available. The equipment needed and different techniques for each method will be discussed below. I may add kit info at a later date. TYPES OF LOG SPAWN – For growing logs you can use thimble spawn, dowel plugs, or sawdust spawn. We use the sawdust spawn since it is more cost effective for a large group of 200 but other options could be chosen based on how large your group is and how much money or spawn is available. Thimble Spawn

Thimble spawn is basically compressed sawdust that has been inoculated and has a built in seal. It is the easiest to use, but it is the most expensive. The cost per log can be well over twice as much as sawdust spawn. It can be a good option for a small group of people doing a few logs. To use thimble spawn a hole is drilled in the log and it is just pushed in using ones bare hands. There is no need for inoculators to push the spawn into the log or to seal the log with wax because there is a built in Styrofoam seal on top of the plugs to seal the logs. A drawback of thimble spawn is that it can take longer for logs to produce mushrooms.

Plug Spawn

Plug spawn is basically an inoculated wooden dowel plug. Once the log is drilled a plug is pushed partway into the hole and a hammer is used to tap it in. It’s a litter easier to use than sawdust spawn since the inoculator is not needed but wax must be used to seal the hole in the log once the plug is installed. This method is not as cost effective as sawdust spawn.

Sawdust Spawn

Sawdust spawn is the most cost effective way to inoculate on a large scale. It is basically sawdust that has been sterilized and has been inoculated by adding a small amount of grain spawn to it. It comes in around 6 pound bags and having a few bags would definitely be to much spawn to use for inoculating a few logs. Here we have over 12 different types of sawdust spawn. It is more than enough for a group of 200 people. We have chosen so many different varieties of mushroom spawn because we will likely have a spawn to work with the tree type that gets brought into the workshop. Also we have spawn for basic growers and people who are more advanced. Some of the spawn here includes several species of oyster mushrooms, Hen of the Woods, Agrocybe, etc. To do a beginners workshop only one type of spawn is needed perhaps oysters would be the best for beginners, each additional year the workshop continues to occur it is nice to have more choices. Where to get the spawn? The best place is having a club member who is a mushroom cultivator. Perhaps they can donate some spawn to keep the cost down. If one is not available check out sites like Field and Forest Products and Fungi Perfecti. Go through their catalogs and select the type of spawn to match logs that club members have locally available, so they can bring their own logs. Make sure to put in the newsletter the size and type of logs needed and additional info. When ordering spawn get 25 percent more than the catalog recommends based on how many logs will be inoculated.

Tools that can be used

On top is the innoculator. It is pushed into the sawdust spawn a few times then held against the hole that has been drilled into the log. The top is pressed in and the right amount of sawdust spawn gets put into the hole in the log. Then it gets sealed with wax after all the log holes get filled with spawn. Below is a drill bit with a depth stop. The stop is attached to the drill bit to the proper depth of hole to be drilled for the spawn. Used the appropriate dill width and depth for the spawn type that you are using, thimble, plug and sawdust spawn often require slightly different ones. Drill bits can also be purchased that have built in stops. They are the easiest to use but are harder to get and typically must be mail ordered. Always ask people in the clubs newsletter to bring in drills and drill bits. Stops can be purchased in the hardware store for about 2 dollars. To drill our logs we use plug in drills, cordless drills and if people are not around the high speed angle grinder with drill attachment. The angle grinder throws wood drillings everywhere and could get into someone eyes so don’t use it around others and always use and provide safety glasses even with regular drills.

Wax to seal the logs

Cheese wax is ordered in bulk to seal the hole when using plug and grain spawn. The wax sheets can be over 1 inch thick and over 1 foot long. I break them up with an ax into pieces that can be easily melted in a pan. Using a knife seems to me to be very difficult and more dangerous and time consuming. Cheese wax can be melted several different ways. The first year we used a camp stove that used Coleman fuel to heat the stove and melted the wax in an old pan. When having people seal their own logs they are not as careful as you or I would be. Never let it be done indoors or on carpet as they could easily become ruined. For a group of over 100 expect wax to drip everywhere and even clog and ruin the stove by the end of the program. Other years we used chef stoves that used caned gas. Currently I prefer to use an electric skillet to melt the wax. They can be purchased at a thrift shop for a dollar or 2 and when the dials and handle get covered with wax it is not a big loss. Make sure to have enough power for all the drills and wax melting equipment so breakers do not get blown or used cordless methods or better yet both. For log cultivation the club provides the spawn and most of the tools that are needed. Including disposable plastic tarps to keep the area clean, drills both cordless and plug in, extension cords, drill bits, stops, inoculators, some sawhorses to make it easier etc. The people attending must bring their own logs. If asked in advanced in the club newsletter some people will bring in drills and extension cords and drill bits. The more the better.

Preparing to drill the log

A disposable tarp is below the saw horses to catch the mess. The saw horse makes it easier than kneeling on the ground but we do anything that works. I recommend logs that can be easily carried. 3 to 4 feet long and 4 to 6 inches wide. Branches that are only 1 or 2 inches wide are too thin and will dry out and will not work. Logs that are a 1 foot wide and 8 feet long will work but because of their weight are too dangerous to use. We don’t want someone getting a hernia. They will work however but take longer to fruit. Logs must be fresh cut within 1 month of being used or they will not work. Old logs that were are already dead have already been attack by other fungi and will not work. Logs should always be taken from a living tree within 1 month from being used.

Drilling the logs

Here the logs are being drilled with a cordless drill. The holes are drilled in a straight line down the length of the log about 6 inches apart. The next row we drill a new row of holes that are also 6 inches apart going down the log but in this case we space the rows 2 inches apart and instead of having the holes side by side we put them starting 3 inches up from the last row of holes. Sort of forming a diamond shaped pattern as we alternate each new row. The third row of holes would then be moved over 2 inches and line up with the holes from the first row. Notice the tags at the end of the logs. A roll of tape is added and a sharpie marker used to write the persons name on their log. Having several hundred logs lying around, they all start to look the same. Putting a name on the log avoids getting a log that is not yours.

Here smaller logs are being used with a plug in drill. A 2 foot long log will work fine. It is also easier to carry.

Filling the hole with spawn

After the log has been drilled the entire way around it, the logs get filled with spawn. The white plastic container is used to hold the spawn instead of the bags that it comes in since the bags are 2 easily ripped. The plastic container has masking tape going around it that I used a marker to label the type of spawn in it. We may have over a dozen types of spawn in containers that are out since 20 people could be inoculating their logs at the same time. If the containers have different spawn in them and they are not labeled it becomes impossible to tell what is what.

Here you can see to fill the innoculator you have to jamb it down in the container a few times to fill it up. Sometimes the bottom or the container gets broken so double them up just in case

Applying the wax

Here you can see a 1 inch wide paint brush is used to apply just enough wax to cover the holes. In this instance an electric skillet was used to melt the wax.

It is best to set up at least 45 minutes early and start early. More people than you expect will show up. You can not see all the 200 people here in this photo. Also plan on more logs, if you tell people to bring 1 or 2 logs they may show up with 20. It is a good idea to ask people in the newsletter to bring an extra log if possible to share with people who do not have one.

STORING THE LOGS AFTER THE WORKSHOP

Logs should be stored outdoors in a shady place where rain can fall on them. This is a view where the logs are stored between a garage and rhododendron that shade them. They could also be stored in the woods. Here the logs are just leaning in an upright position.

Here you can see how they are going to be placed between the garage and the bushes. A nice shady spot.

SOAKING THE LOGS

After a log is soaked for 48 hours it is removed and put back into the shade. Typically it will start to fruit within 7 days. I typically soak my logs in the spring, then summer and in the fall for at least 3 fruitings. Spring and fall are definitely preferred times.

A year after the logs have been inoculated they can be soaked to force fruit them. Some people may soak them in their pond; others may soak them in collected rain water. Others soak them in barrels or garbage cans after letting the city water sit for 24 hours to remove some of the chlorine.

RECYCLING YOUR KITS TO GET ADDITIONAL FRUITINGS AND PLANTING A LOG

Here you can see some kits I have buried and where I added more substrate to keep them fruiting. In this case I used wood stove pellets; the log center of the 2 kits was buried about 18 inches. When you bury a log you don’t have to soak it. It picks up moisture from the ground.

Cultivating live trees is another option

This is a large oak. 3 offset rows were drilled near the tree base. They then get inoculated with the spawn. Then we seal them.

The wood chips from the drilling really give away what has been done for a few weeks

A gray colored sealant was used to hide the drilling we did. Remember it is important to hide your spots.

I really love to harvest trees that have been cultivated. Can you imagine finding a place where during a small walk over 100 trees just like this have been inoculated? It really opens up a lot of possibilities such as having a hugely successful club edibles walk.