How to Build an Acid/Alkaline

Water Charger.

Acid/Alkaline Water Charger Plans

Copyright© 2000. By G.D.Mutch.

Contents

Introduction.

What Is Acid/Alkaline Water ?

Getting Started On The Designs.

Cutting/Machining The Materials.

Assembling The Unit.

Using Your Charger Unit.

Drinking Your Charge Water.

Manufacture A Unit For Me.

Introduction

The latest white goods technology to hit the market place is an acid/alkaline water

charger. With a price tag between $1000 to $1300 (Aud) for a single commercial unit,

its not hard to see why some people may choose to build an experiment with their own

home made designs. The following plans will describe in detail how to make an

acid/alkaline water charger to experiment with your own charge water at home. The

following plans involve simple to understand step by step instructions. The price of the

materials to make your own unit should set you back between $50 to $70 (Aud).

What is Acid/Alkaline Water ?

What is acid/alkaline water, also known as micro-cluster water? By placing a positive

electrode in one partition of the charger container an a negative electrode in the other

partition of the container, you can get ordinary tap water to separate into acid water at

the positive side, an alkaline water on the negative side. The water actually undergoes a

change of its electrical state. It does this by changing the pH level of the water. Negative

electrons are attracted to the positive protons on the positive plate side. The negative

plate partition of the water charger builds up what is termed as a charge cluster of

negative Hydrogen ions in the water. Where as the positive plate partition builds up a

charge of OH ions. Commercial units claim negative charge clusters of around -250 to -

350 mV. Why is this charge cluster water beneficial to people ? It has been document

by commercial manufacturing companies that acid/ alkaline water units can assist in

helping many human ailments. Ailments like arthritis, fatty acids, metal build up in the

body etc... There are many pages on the internet devoted to other peoples testimonials

as to these health benefits. I don't think charge cluster water can do any immediate harm

to people in the short term, as naturally falling rain water has a similar build up of

negative charge. This type of unit allows people to have a type of rain water on demand,

while at the same time allows them to use the acid water for rashes and skin aliments.

Acid/Alkaline water can also be used in the garden.

What is pH?

The pH scale ranges from 0 on the acidic end to 14 on the alkaline end. A solution is

considered neutral if its pH is 7. At a pH of 7 water contains equal concentrations of H+

and OH- ions. Substances with a pH less than 7 are acidic because they contain a higher

concentration of H+ ions. Substances with a pH higher than 7 are alkaline because they

contain a higher concentration of OH- than H+. The pH scale is a log scale so a change

of one pH unit means a factor of ten in the concentration of hydrogen ions.

Getting Started On The Designs :

Parts List

The first thing you will need is the following parts :

1 @ Synthetic Car Chamois [Membrane Filter]

1 @ 5mm x 160mm x 460mm PVC Pipe [Cylinder ]

4 @ 10mm x 20mm x 420mm Nylon Strip [Baffle Guides ]

2 @ 5mm x 150 mm x 420mm Acrylic or Nylon Sheet [Baffle Plates]

2 @ 1.5mm x 50mm x 350 Stainless Steel Sheet (316) [Electrodes]

1 @ 20mm x 151mm dia Nylon Block [Bottom End Cap]

2 @ 10mm dia pipe fittings.(optional) [Outlets]

1 @ Small Tube of Silicon Sealant

2 @ 5 mm x 16 mm Stainless Nut/Bolt [Electrode Fixing]

26 @ 16mm x 2.5mm(4g) Screws [Fixing Screws ]

1 @ 1.5mm drill bit

1 @ 5mm drill bit

1 @ 6-10mm drill bit

Cutting/Machining The Materials :

1. [Baffle Plates]

Cut the baffle plate material to the correct size: 2 @ 5mm x 150 mm x 420mm . Once you

have both baffles cut neatly to the same size, you will then have to drill a multiple of 6-10mm

holes in a matrix pattern down the two baffles plates.(see figure 3)This is important as this is

where the 12v electric positive and negative charge travels through the chamois membrane filter

to separate the water into acid/alkaline. Do not drill these holes too near the edge of the baffle

guides or near the bottom end cap, as the water will escape around the edges an allow the water

to mix in together again. We do not want the water to mix in together at any stage, as we wish

for the water to stay separated in both sides of the charger container. It's a good idea to leave a

safety margin of at least 30mm around the edge before any holes are drilled. The matrix can be

drilled with 5 columns of 18 rows by 8mm holes, that's around 90 holes in all. Make sure you

clamp both baffle plates together neatly before drilling, and that you drill both plates identically

at the same time. Over lapping or out of alignment holes may not allow uniform charge to go

through the water.

Handy hint : on the back of most contact paper or wall paper there is a ruled 20mm x 20mm ink

printed grid. Cut to size a piece of this paper to use as a grid. Tape this grid to the baffles before

drilling, and then drill the intersections of these lines. You may need to lightly centre punch

these intersection points first.

2. [Baffle Plate Guides]

If you have the plastic baffle guides material in one large piece then you will need to cut

this block of material into 4 @10mm x 20mm x 420mm plastic strips (see figure 3.)Use a

power or hand saw to get the straightest and cleanest cut you can. You will need you use a

power or hand plane to shave one edge/corner off the entire length of these baffle guides so that

the guides sit flush with the main cylinder/container wall, while also sitting flush with the baffle

plate. (see figure 6). To do this simply place the baffle guides along the edge of the baffle plate

material and clamp in between two planks of wood in a vice or similar. Using scrap piece of the

160mm PVC at approximately 10mm wide, cut this scrap piece in half across the diameter. You

will be using this as a template as you plane down the curve along the full length of the baffle

guide edges. (see figure 2). Plane a little off the edge each time while placing the scrap template on

the cut edge to see if you have the curve correct. Do not remove to much off the edges else your

baffle guide will leak water around the edge, as it won't clamp the baffle plates tight inside the

finished unit. Repeat the above with all four baffle guides. You will have to alternate from side

to side for the correct plane angle. Try not to loose count of each plane cut with each side.

Figure 2

Figure 3

3.[Chamois/ Membrane Filter]

Cut out the synthetic chamois to a slightly smaller size than that of your baffle plates. Place the

chamois on a clean firm surface, then place one of the baffle plates on top of the chamois. While

placing your weight on the baffle plate and chamois, mark a pencil mark around the chamois

while using the edge of the baffle plate as a ruler or guide. Using a pair of scissors cut the inside

line of the pencil mark on the chamois. We want the chamois (membrane filter) to be slightly

smaller in size than the baffle plates, as this prevents the chamois from jamming in/around the

baffle guides and causing leaks. This scissor cut is not critical as you should still have a safety

margin of around 30mm that covers over the actual baffle plate matrix of holes. You could still

come in 5mm from your original pencil mark and be quite safe with final cut. Do not make any

holes in this membrane filter as the water charger will not work properly. If your membrane

filter gets old or damaged, then replace the material as soon as possible. When the chamois is

first new you should hand wash your chamois membrane filter in warm soapy water and then

rinse it out in clean water and allow it to dry. The purpose of this is to remove any latent

manufacturing chemical contaminates in the chamois.

4.[Electrodes]

Cut two stainless steel strips to the size 1.5mm x 50mm x 350 mm long. These are your

positive and negative electrodes. These are bolted inside near the top edge of the main

cylinder/container on opposite sides to each other. One electrode either side of the baffle

partition will produce acid water at the positive, while alkaline water is produce at the

negative. The baffle partition and membrane filter will prevent the water from mixing

together. These electrodes can be powered by a standard 12 volt car battery charger.

You do not need heavy current. An ordinary house hold 240volt down to 6-12 volt

handy power pack will work just the same.

Drill a hole at one end in the centre of these stainless steel plates about 15mm down

from the top width edge, an about 25 mm in from the length edge. This is the bolt hole

that will fix the electrodes to the main cylinder/container. (See figure 4 & 5 )

Figure 4

Figure 5

6. [Bottom End Cap ]

Here comes the tricky part. The bottom end cap is lathed out of a 20mm thick x 160mm

square block of nylon or acrylic material. The end cap will be lathed to an accurate

finish of 151mm inside diameter. You may have to get this bottom end cap

manufactured at a machine shop. It should cost you very little to have it done. This end

cap will fit entirely flush into the bottom of the cylinder/container. If you wish you may

lathe a 5 mm x 2mm deep groove in the centre of the outer edge to contain a silicon

bead of glue when fixing the cap into position. You will need to use a saw or router to

cut an 11mm x 10mm deep groove across the end cap diameter inside face. In this

groove is where the baffles will sit to seal the bottom section of the baffle plates to

prevent them from leakage.(see figure 7) It is important to try an get this groove cut out

section as straight an as dead centre as is possible. You may like to get this groove

machined at the machine shop at the same time that you have the diameter lathed out. It

is much easier to get this groove placed centre while it is still a square block of material.

Alternatively you may attempt to lathe the block yourself by drilling a 10mm hole in the

dead centre of the square block, and place a nut and bolt through the material. Place the

bolt end in a drill machine an lathe the151mm dia block with a sharp chisel or screw

driver. Be sure to fix the drill machine firmly in a vice or similar before you start. Be

careful of the drill speed, as the rotational speed can get very large at the outer edge of

the square block. If you attempt to lathe this yourself then make sure you cut the corners

off the block before you start. You will have to plug the10mm drill hole with a plastic

plug and silicon once you have finished lathing. Have fun...

Do NOT fix the end cap permanently into the cylinder/container at this stage.

Figure 6 & Figure 7.

Assembling The Unit :

With all the materials cut, drilled and machined to the above specifications, you should

be ready to assemble all the parts into their correct position. Do not fix the bottom end

cap at this time. We need to be able to work from both the top and bottom end of the

cylinder while we place the baffle guides into position.(see figure 8) We will be putting the

end cap into position and removing it numerous times as we finish the final assembly.

Assembly:

1. Firstly, put the bottom end cap into position do not fix it. Assert that the end cap

is flush with the bottom of the cylinder/container. Sit the cylinder/container in

the normal up right position on the bench top.

2. Place the now cut to size chamois between the two baffle plates. Slide the baffle

plates with the chamois down into the container while positioning the baffle

plates firmly into the router groove in the bottom of the end cap. Tap the baffle

plates with your hand to make sure that they are firmly into the groove of the

end cap. If the plates appear tight, then file the outer bottom edge of the baffle

plates to a taper so they slide in easier. You may now cut two or four planks of

thin wood 71mm wide by 200-400 mm long. Jam these pieces of wood either

side of the baffle plates to hold the entire plates straight and centre most in the

cylinder/container as we fix the baffle guides.

3. Put two of the 10mm x 20mm x 420mm long baffle guides into the container:

one either side of the baffle plates. Using your hand as a clamp hold them firmly

an assert that the guides are to the outer most diameter hard against the inside of

the cylinder curve. Be sure that the planed curve on the guide is the correct way

out. Using a 1.5mm drill bit as a pilot hole drill outside the cylinder an in to the

baffle guide. Estimate the drill hole at the centre position at around the general

top of these two guides: about 30mm down. The top of baffle guides should rest

natural about 20mm down from the top of the cylinder/container. So you will

need to drill down about 25-30mm so you don't miss the top of the baffle guide.

Screw a 2.5mm(4g) x 16mm screw into the hole fixing the top end of these first

two baffle guides. (see figure 8)

4. Now using a long stick of wood remove the bottom end cap away from the

cylinder. Leave the baffles in position. Once again holding the bottom end of

baffle guides against the baffles and hard against the outer cylinder, drill a pilot

hole in the outer cylinder through to the centre of baffle guides; fix a screw to

hold them into position. These two holes should be up 25-30 mm from the

bottom of the cylinder/container so you don't miss the end of the baffle guides.

Place the bottom end cap back into position. Again check that the baffle plates

are hard down into the end cap groove, and that the end cap is flush with the

cylinder/container bottom. Using a pencil and a ruler, rule two parallel lines

from top to bottom along the outer side of the cylinder in the dead centre of the 4

screw heads. Asserting that the baffle guides are straight, an are in position, drill

two pilot holes at the dead centre of the cylinder right on the two pencil lines.

Insert two more screws into these holes. Measure an divide either side of these

centre screws to find the middle of the top an current centre, and the middle of

the bottom and current centre. Drill pilot holes and screw these last four screws

into position. You should have 2 lines of 5 screws holding each of the two baffle

guides into position. (see figure 8) Repeat step 4 above until all baffle guides are

fixed into position.

5. Once you have all baffle guides fixed into position use a marker pen or texture

to number the baffle guides with a corresponding number on the cylinder wall.

Now undo all the screws and remove the baffle guides (one at a time only) away

from the cylinder/container. We are now going to place a thin layer of silicon

sealant on the fixing side of all four guides and refit them back into their original

position inside the cylinder/container. Note the number for the correct way

around when refitting the guides.

6. Once all the baffle guides are sealed with silicon and fixed into position, you

may remove the bottom end cap and place a bead of silicon around the outer

parameter of the end cap. Being careful, fit the end cap back into the cylinder

container. Be sure that the end cap is home flush and that the baffle plates once

again align with the groove in the end cap. Hit the baffle plates down firmly to

check they are firmly into the groove of the end cap. If all is home and flush,

looking inside from the top down toward the bottom, scribe a pencil mark either

side on the outer cylinder at the very bottom of the cylinder where the end cap

groove is. We do not wish to screw into the baffle plates when we fix the bottom

end cap, so take note of the pencil mark you have just made. Starting about

45mm away from the pencil marks and 10mm up from the bottom edge of the

cylinder/container, drill and place 6 x 2.5mm (4g) screws around the bottom of

cylinder and through into the end cap, firmly fixing the end cap into position.

7. Before any silicon is allowed to dry firm, remove the baffle plates from their position.

Wipe any excess silicon away from the end cap, plates and the baffle guides. Allow

your unit to dry for 24 hours before you use your completed unit. Fill the

cylinder/container with water and check that there is no leaks and that every thing looks

clean an is in the correct position. 8. You may have to hammer the top of both electrode plates to fit the inside curved of the

cylinder. Hammer the first 50mm of the top section of each electrode plate so that it

shapes into a curve. You should not need to curve any more than 50mm. If you desire

you may also bend a 90 deg x 90 deg bend near the top of electrode plates to move the

electrodes closer into the centre of the container. The top of the plates should be flush

with the top of the cylinder/container. Drill and fit both the electrode stainless steel

plates into position. Fit the electrode plates with 2 @ 5mm x 16mm stainless steel nuts

and bolts. (see figure 4&5) 9. Optionally you may drill two10mm holes at the bottom (just above the end cap) either

side of the container and place two hose fittings to allow you to drain the charge water

from the container. You may also use some sort of tap arrangement. I leave that up to

you. Your assembled unit should look something like the grey colour picture design of

figure 9.

Figure 8

Figure 9

Using your Charger Unit.

Ok, if your charger container is sealed and there are no apparent leaks, then you are

ready to fit the baffles; refill it with clean water and connect the power. Place the

chamois between the baffles plates and slide the plates firmly into the baffle guides

while also checking that the baffles have gone down firmly into the groove in the end

cap.

Filling the Charger Unit

Fill your charger unit full with clean drinking water while alternating to both sides of

the container at the same time. Fill the container till the water level is about 5mm below

the top of the baffle plates.You will notice as you fill one side that you have slight

leaking into the adjacent partition, this is quite okay. The water will not leak through

under normal use, provided that you keep the water height at roughly the same water

level on both sides. When first filling the container the pressure difference of the water

is causing water to push through the chamois membrane, this is quite normal. This

water pressure difference should be avoid where possible, as it's not desirable when you

decide to empty the container of the charged water.When you empty the charger you

must syphon off both sides of the container at exactly the same time. This will prevent

the water pressure difference and prevent water flowing from one partition of the

container into the other.

Connecting the Power:

Using a texture or marker pen scribe a (+) symbol on one of the electrodes, an a (-)

negative symbol on the other electrode. Place the red lead of your battery charger onto

the (+) electrode. Place the black lead onto the (-) negative electrode. You will need to

identify the polarity of the water by determining which side of the container is which.

This is in case you decide to do some periodic testing during the charging process,

therefore you will need to identify which end to reconnect the battery charger leads.

The first time you use your water charger you will need to leave it connected to the

power supply for about 1-3 hours; depending the water in your area. The first thing you

may notice might be the water in the positive side of the container starting to turn a dark

greenie brown colour, while the water in the negative side will remain clean and clear.

If your charger is working correctly you should see the above results start to happen

with in about 1 hour. If you don't see something happen with in the hour then check that

the battery charger leads are making contact with the stainless steel plates in the

container, or that the power supply is working as it should. I have left my own water

charger unit on for up to 10-12 hours at a time. You will determine through trial an error

how long you should leave your water charger unit connect to the power supply. You

may like to keep a log book of your experiments.

Drinking Your Charge Water:

As stated previously: when removing the charged water from your charger unit, you

must drain both sides of the unit at the same time. It is advisable that you empty the unit

as soon as you disconnect the power supply. This ensures the charged water cannot

redistribute its charge back into either partition. You will need two clean 4 litre

containers to contain the water when emptying the unit. The unit when full should hold

around 6.9 litres when filled to the top water mark. Use a texture or marker pen to

identify the acid an alkaline water in both of the 4 litre storage containers. The alkaline

water should be clean, clear and taste something like rain water. The acid water will be

coloured a dark greenie brown and taste brackish or stark like metal in the water. You

may drink the alkaline water internally for inner health, an use the acid water externally

on your skin and hair for outer health. By personal preference I like to store the alkaline

charge water in a glass bottle.

Companies with commercial units recommend for the first time user to only charge the

water for a short period, so that your body can slowly adjust to the cleansing an

detoxifying effects. As you grow accustom to the alkaline water you can leave the

power connected to the water charger for longer periods for stronger effects.

The above information is offered freely to all, for in the hope of a cleaner better

world... Should you feel obligated an in someway feel the need to contribute

something to help in this cause, then please feel free to make suggestions, donations

or contributions of any sort you wish, so that I may continue to provide further

information for the betterment of all.....

Please share all your findings with others, don't let ego and greed cloud your better

judgement...

Enjoy your water.....

G.D.Mutch

email : pagemaster@rocknet.net.au

Disclaimer:

Caution. The plans listed herein are for experimental purposes only. The above unit is assembled an used at the

user/constructors own discretion. The information here in does not guarantee the water is always fit for human or live

stock consumption. The user/constructor assumes all responsibility for the use or inability to use the above information or machinery listed.

Manufactured Units :

Model No. 2.

Manufactured Units

If you are able to make one of these unit for yourself then I can possibly

make a unit for you. All units will be worked out on a per quoted price

basis. The user must accept all responsibility when using these unit. Owing

to different water in all parts of the world, I therefore cannot guarantee the

fitness of the water when used in these experimental water charging units.

Although every effort will be made to ensure food grade quality materials

will be used in all manufacturing stages.

For further charge water inquires please send an email to :

G.D.Mutch

Rockhampton, Qld, Australia.

email : pagemaster@rocknet.net.au

Make This Radio Motor

This novel radio operated device shown for the first time at the New York Radio Show is easily constructed. Nathan I. Hall from Radio Craft page 464 Feb 1936

An electric motor can be built using materials usually found in the radio facts junk box which will run on radio power received from stations some miles away.

The construction of the motor is not at all difficult and the average radio fan will find it both an interesting and instructive diversion from his usual radio activities.

(This "motor", essentially, is a galvanometer provided with bearings and a commutator that allows continuous rotation in one direction. Editor )

As might be expected, such a motor cannot be used to drive any mechanism as all of the power developed is used In overcoming friction in the motor itself.

The motor built by the writer will run on all input of one ten millionth of a watt armature current 7 microamperes and armature resistance of 2000 ohms and call be truthfully called a "flea-power motor."

The major parts necessary for its construction are: a crystal receiver, a horseshoe magnet, a short piece of iron rod and some small enamelled wire from an A.F. transformer secondary or a ford coil secondary.

As this motor operates oil D.C. only, the purpose of the crystal receiver is to tune in the desired station and to change R.F. current induced in the antenna into D.C.

A signal loud enough to be easily heard will be sufficient to operate the motor.

It is necessary that the current through the armature winding be reversed at the end of each half revolution of the motor.

On weak signals this must be done with a hand switch but on powerful signals it may be accomplished with a mercury or metal segmented commutator.

Figure 1A shows the top and side views of the motor. The dimensions of the various parts are not at all critical and will be determined by the size of the permanent magnet available.

The iron core for the rotor consists of a Piece of iron rod mounted between the magnet Poles. The diameter of this iron cylinder should be from ½ to 5/8 inches. less than the distance between the magnet poles. (A good length for it is half the length of the magnet).

Contrary to the usual motor, this core does not rotate but is fixed and the winding rotates around it. (See Fig. 1B) The only part of the motor where special care must be taken is in the construction of the rotor coil form.

A good design for this form is shown in Fig. 1C. It is made of stiff. light cardboard or fibre and care must be taken to see that it is symmetrical. The coil form should clear the iron care by about 1/16 in. on all sides. It will be seen in

Fig. 1A that the core is held in place by a pivot which must pass through the bottom of the form. The hole through which this pivot passes should be

approximately twice the diameter of the rod. To the top of the coil form is glued a short length of hard-rubber rod.

This rod supports a phonograph needle which serves as the motor shaft. The needle protrudes through the coil form and its point rests in a centre punch mark in the top of the iron cylinder. The top of the hard-rubber rod is hollowed out slightly so that it will hold a few drops of mercury, or it is pivoted at the top with a second phonograph needle as shown in the details of Fig. 1. The last step in the construction is the winding of the rotor. The more wire used. the better will be the results.

The writer used 2000 turns of A.F. transformer wire, half of it being wound on each side of the hard-rubber rod. One end of the coil is soldered to the phonograph needle and the other end makes contact with the commutator. One of the motor input wires connects to the pivot and the other lightly touches the commutator.

The two sections of the coil must be separated on the bottom of the coil form so as not to obstruct the core sup-porting screw hole. A thin (for lightness) coat of glue on the finished winding will stiffen the whole rotor and make the coil less susceptible to damage.

Figure 2A shows the circuit diagram using a S.P.S.T. switch for making and breaking the current. Figure 2B shows the method of connecting a D.P.D.T. switch which reverses the current at every half-revolution of the rotor and giving twice the power of the method shown in Fig. 2A. With a little ingenuity the builder can design a switch which can be thrown with a very small movement of the hand.

If a powerful station is close by, the switch may be eliminated and a commutator built on the hard-rubber rod so that a wire brush makes and breaks contact at the desired time as shown in Figs. 1A and D. The motor built by the writer has been operated on stations many miles away using the hand commutation method.

(Mr. Hall is connected with the Physics Departrnent of West Virginia University, Morgan-town, W. Va.-Editor)

ELECTRICITY AND MAGNETISM

occur everywhere in nature.

Early man was well acquainted with the awesome power of

lightning and knew that iron and certain other metals were

attracted to magnetite, a kind of iron ore. The Ancient

Greeks were familiar with the fact that rubbed amber

attracted dust and chaff; indeed, their word for amber,

"elektron," is the origin of the word electricity.

Yet surprisingly, the link between magnetism and

electricity was not discovered until early in the last

century. Even today, there is a great deal about

electromagnetic forces that we still cannot explain.

Nevertheless, we make use of them in an endless variety of

ways to produce heat, light and other forms of energy. We

also know enough about electricity and magnetism to have a

lot of fun, as you will see in this web page site

AN ELECTROSCOPE

Bend a piece of wire into a double right-angled shape with

upturned ends as illustrated. Put one end on the rim of a

glass and keep it in position with a metal plate or tray.

The vertical arm inside should not touch the glass. Hang a

strip of metal foil over the horizontal wire arm.

Charge a comb or piece of paper with static by rubbing,

then hold it near the tray rim. The foil ends will spring

apart. You have made an electroscope, a delicate instrument

for detecting electric charges.

Touch the plate with your finger. This grounds the foil

charge, giving it an opposite charge to the paper. The

leaves collapse. Then take away your finger. The opposite

charge in the paper will now flow to the foil. The leaves

will spring apart again as they now have an opposite charge

to the paper. All clear? Try it yourself.

HANS OERSTED (1777-1851), a Danish scientist, discovered

that an electric current produces a magnetic field at right

angles to its flow. Now prove him right.

Float a magnetised needle in a glass of water to make a

compass .

When those who aren't in the scientific "know" drop metal

objects into water they sink like stones to the bottom. You

are different, for when you drop, say, pins and needles

into water they float.

Miraculous? Not really. The secret is to keep the surface

of the pin or needle that isn't touching the water quite

dry. There are four ways of doing this, two rather

difficult and two fairly easy.

Lowering the needle by two looped threads is one way but

you would have to remove the thread without disturbing

either the water or the needle - no easy job.

The second method, dropping it horizontally from just above

the surface, is better, but you need a very steady hand

because a crooked drop won't work.

The bottom two methods illustrated here are best; either

lower the needle (or pin) gently on a fork,

or float it on a piece of paper.

The last is probably the most effective but you will leave

a tell-tale piece of paper on the bottom because it is

going to absorb the water and sink, leaving the needle

afloat.

Puzzle your friends by first giving them some pins and

needles and inviting them to make these metal objects

float. Unless they know the secret they will fail.

The things will sink miserably and swiftly. Then you

unveil your collection of floating pins and needles which

you have previously prepared.

"How's it done?" they ask. "Magic water," you say, putting

them off the scent.

Having mastered the art of making needles float, you can

become a compass manufacturer. If you magnetise a needle -

by stroking it one way only with a bar magnet - and float

it in the way we have described, it will always point north

and south. Of course, you know why.

What you have made, in the simplest possible way, is a

rudimentary compass. It won't be much use as a means of

finding your way in the country, but it is a compass

nevertheless.

In both these demonstrations, the important point to

remember is that the objects must be dry or they will sink.

Place a teaspoon parallel to the needle across the rim of

the glass. The battery to supply the current is made as

follows. Wrap some small pieces of coke in a cloth and

insert the handle of a fork. Immerse the bundle in a strong

salt solution then rest the fork prongs on one end of the

spoon. Balance a strip of zinc between the other end and

the salt solution taking care not to touch the coke bundle.

Chemical reaction in the solution produces a flow of

electricity through the circuit of zinc, spoon, fork and

salt solution. Notice how the needle is now deflected at

right angles.

A MAGNETIC MOTOR

A fairly elaborate motor that is powerful enough to spin a

wire wheel can be made from just a simple magnet and a

spirit lamp. In this instance, building the wheel turns out

to be far more complicated than assembling the motor

itself.

To make the wheel, use a thick slice of cork as the hub and

insert four equal lengths of stiff copper wire as spokes.

Make grooves in the end of each to take a rim of thin iron

wire. Slot the rim into each spoke and twist both ends

together so that it forms a circle. The axle for the wheel

will be a steel knitting needle mounted on a base of cork

that is glued to a thick cardboard circle. The entire axle

rotates on a bearing made from a small, concave-centred

button glued to the cork base. In the "cup" of this button

place a glass bead with a hole bored through it. Now bend a

hairpin or paper clip to form a small loop in the middle.

Insert the two ends in the cork base so that it arches over

the button. The axle is kept upright by the loop and the

hole in the bead. Together they form a ball-and-socket

arrangement. If necessary, oil this hinge from time to

time.

Place a horseshoe magnet on a stand at the same level as

the wheel. Heat the rim of the wheel with a spirit lamp

placed just in front of one of the two poles of the magnet.

As the rim heats up, the wheel starts to revolve. When the

iron becomes red hot, at a temperature of around 1 1100

degree F, it becomes immune to magnetic attraction. Now

only the colder part of the iron rim is attracted

HOMEMADE LIGHT BULB

Electricity does not only flow out of wall sockets. It

occurs everywhere in nature often appearing in the most

unsuspected places. This is why it is possible to make a

light without even using anything as elaborate as wires,

light bulbs and fuses.

You will need a glass cylinder, preferably one from an old

oil lamp. Wrap a ring of tin foil around its middle. Attach

another thin strip of foil from the end of the glass to

roughly half an inch away from the foil ring. Next wrap a

long soft brush in a silk handkerchief or silk cloth. Rub

the inside of the glass briskly making sure not to touch

the foil with your fingers. If you stand in a darkened

corner you will soon see a large spark jump across the gap

between the foil every time you pull the brush out of the

cylinder.

With this simple electricity generator you will be able to

perform an endless variety of tricks and experiments. For

example, if you the ring of tin foil and hang a few strips

of thin paper at the end you will have built an

electroscope quite similar to the one made earlier in the

book. This time, rub the inside of the glass cylinder from

the opposite direction you used before. The paper strips

will soon bristle and lift up as the charge from the foil

flows along the thread and into the paper. Since like

charges repel each other, the bits of paper will be pushed

apart.

You have also demonstrated in this experiment that objects

that are poor conductors, such as glass, readily take an

electric charge when rubbed. Good conductors, on the other

hand, readily transmit electricity between charged and

neutral bodies.

THE KNOWING ARROW

Fold a small piece of paper in such a way that it divides

into quarters with creases to show where you have folded

it. Using the intersection of these creases as the centre

point, cut out a cross like the one illustrated.

Trim the longer arms to make the point a little further

from the centre intersection than the other squared end.

Balance the paper cross on the point of a needle at the

centre but take care not to pierce the paper. Insert the

head of the needle in a cork and cover the whole structure

with a glass tumbler.

Tell your friends you can make the arrow inside the glass

point at anyone you name without removing the glass. All

you need to do is rub it with a silk handkerchief on the

side facing the person you choose. The arrow will be

attracted by the static on that side of the glass and will

turn to point in his direction.

Follow up this trick by making the arrow rotate at quite a

speed by rubbing the tumbler top well, it isn't the top

because the bottom is uppermost here - in a circular motion

but always in the same direction.

If you have the patience to do some rather fiddly paperwork

you could make a paper cross with equal arms and from them

suspend tiny cut-out horses by fine threads. This electric

merry-go round will delight and amuse young children.

Glass, porcelain, wood, textiles, waxes and resins are

easily charged with static electricity but they are, like

all such materials, bad conductors of an electric current.

They are therefore obvious choices for use as insulators to

separate conducting materials.

The Power Cord Antenna

Above is a typical circuit that as a young adult I constructed to listen to a

couple of local radio stations

and I think it cost me about four dollars then ,maybe it would now cost ten or

eleven dollars now.

All parts can be readily obtained from your local electronics or hobby shop.

(Dick Smith and Tandy in Australia)

This circuit would have been know to Nicola Tesla as he design a similar

circuit .

Normally you would only use a small ferrite bar for the coil or indeed only an

air coil inductor winding.

Many would have only built them to receive the local radio stations twenty

miles distance or less but more than this can be accomplished with just

experimenting with the coil winding sizes and longer distances covered..

By winding just one loop to many loops around the suggested ferrite rod size

many shortwave stations could be heard and in some instances the tuning

capacitor could be done away with.

The constructor normally be told that a high and long antenna and earth are

required but below I described a aerial that requires no more than six feet of

zip cord or twin lighting flex.

Please note I take no responsibility if you construct the above and you

construct or put it together incorrectly and you should do so under adult

supervision ( by the way the idea does work)

Putting it together.

DO THE FOLLOWING ONLY UNDER ADULT SUPERVISION

Obtain for yourself a NEW six foot length of twin flex from each end and at

opposite side remove six inches of the flex cord as in illustration.

from the length remaining cut away an inch of insulation to leave the wire.

At this stage and this is important

Test to see that you have no conduction between the two bare wires at each

end of the zip cord.

This can be done with a multi meter tester or a torch globe and battery.

If the meter zeros out, or the globe lights up , assuming the bulb is working

then do not use this cord and try and make a new one again.

DO THE FOLLOWING UNDER ADULT SUPERVISION

The plug diagram is an Australian wiring standard and may be different in

other countries so check to see and be sure what you are about to do.

Be sure to wrap insulation tape where wire has been removed at the six inches

cut mark for extra safety

Remember one of the wire Leads will be live with electricity ,so keep it away

from water and skin contact.

Connect one of your bare on inch wire lengths to the active side of the

electrical plug and place into electrical power point and the other end to your

receiver ,be it a crystal radio or a normal radio or even a TV and then listen to

your receiver you will be to hear a strong clear signal if within range of

transmitter..

Please note TV reception has a limited range.

This can also be connected to an electrical light fitting and get the same result.

Don't use the earth connection on the plug just in case your home has been

incorrectly wired and your earth has power running through it.

If your house has installed wiring by a licensed contractor he is likely to have

done this correctly.

HOW IT WORKS

Around us at all times there are radio signals these interact with any long leads

and overhead power lines are no different..

The radio signal travel along these lines and into your home why not make use

of these.

The zip cord acts as a signal transformer and places the signals from one side

of the cord to other cord on the opposite

side and these are fed to your receiver..

I have received short wave signals on a simple crystal set up as of the first

above diagram from 1000 kilometres away

The information is supplied as an Educational reference only and no

responsibly is taken for anyone actually using this information to make this

antenna.

Remember Safety first at all times.

Geoff

Cook hotdogs with the Sun in minutes.

In this section we will show you how to make a powerful solar concentrator

that can cook four or five hotdogs in minutes.

The Solar Hotdog Cooker is made out of a thin (1/8 inch thick) plastic mirror

that can be found at plastic shops and glass stores (although it may have to be

special ordered at some stores).

The plastic is bent into the shape of a parabola, so that the sun's rays are

collected over an eight square foot area, and focused in a thin line. The

hotdogs are roasted on a spit placed at the focus, and turned every once in a

while to prevent them from burning.

Materials

For the solar cooker you will need:

1. Two pieces of plywood, 1/2 inch thick, 2 feet wide and 4 feet long. 2. Two pieces of lumber, (2x4) 1 1/2 inch thick, 3 1/2 inch wide, and 8

feet long. 3. 16 wood screws, 2 inches long. 4. One stiff steel wire, 3 feet long. 5. 92 small nails or wooden pegs, about an inch long. 6. One plastic mirror, 1/8 inch thick, 2 feet wide, 6 feet long (although 5

1/2 feet long might work better). 7. A drill and a bit that matches the diameter of the 92 small nails or

pegs. A larger bit (over 1 inch wide) is needed for the food hole.

Assembly

Place the two sheets of plywood together, one on top of the other. Using a

tape measure and a carpenter's square, mark off where the holes will be

drilled for the mirror supports (the 92 small nails or pegs).

All holes are drilled completely through both sheets of plywood. The holes are

to be drilled according to the following table:

Inche

s

from

left

Inche

s from

botto

m

0 22.16

2 18.94

4 16.00

6 13.34

8 10.96

10 8.86

12 7.04

14 5.50

16 4.24

18 3.26

20 2.56

24 2.00

28 2.56

30 3.26

32 4.24

34 5.50

36 7.04

38 8.86

40 10.96

42 13.34

44 16.00

46 18.94

48 22.16

Spacing for drilled holes

A second row of holes is drilled above these, separated by the thickness of the

mirror.

Next drill a set of holes above the first set, about a third of an inch above the

first set of holes. The first set of holes will eventually have 23 of the small

nails placed in each side, to hold the mirror up.

The second row will also have 23 small nails pushed in, this time to hold the

mirror in place from above. The exact spacing is not critical, but you don't

want them too close together, or the top nails will hit the mirror instead of

resting on top of the mirror.

Next drill eight holes for the screws that will hold the 2x4 lumber in place.

The holes are 3/4 inch from the edges of the plywood. On the left and right, a

pair are drilled 15 inches from the bottom and 13 inches from the bottom. At

the bottom, a pair are drilled 10 and 12 inches from the left, and the last pair is

36 and 38 inches from the left.

The focus of the parabola is 9.14 inches from the bottom, and 24 inches from

the left. Drill a hole that is the same diameter as the spit wire, or a little bit

larger. This hole should go through both sheets of plywood.

Just above one of the focus holes, drill a large hole in one plywood sheet, just

touching the hole for the spit. This large hole will accomodate the food

(hotdogs or kebabs), so it should be at least an inch in diameter, but three or

four inches would be better. The spit with the food on it will be inserted into

this hole, and the spit will then drop into the much smaller hole at the focus, to

keep the spit in exactly the right place.

Cut four pieces from the 2x4 lumber. Each piece should be exactly 2 feet long.

Using the 2 inch long screws, screw the 2x4 pieces to one of the plywood

sheets, centering each pair of screws in the end of each piece of 2x4. The

result should look something like the legs of a small table.

Attach the second plywood sheet to the other end of the 2x4 pieces.

The photo above shows the back side of the cooker, where the 2x4 spreaders

can be seen. Note also the remaining length of 2x4 is used as a support (more

about that later).

Next push 46 of the small nails into the bottom row of holes. Now set the

mirror onto the top of the cooker, and gently push it down to rest on the nails.

Put a pair of nails in the center pair of holes on top of the mirror, then work

your way outwards, placing pairs of nails to hold the mirror down. (I used

cotton tipped wooden swabs in the picture because they photograph better

than nails.)

The last step is to place a few screws in the remaining long piece of 2x4,

leaving the head of the screws sticking an inch or two out of the wood. These

will act as supports to hold the cooker so it is tilted toward the sun.

The spit is formed from the 3 foot piece of wire. A coat hanger can be used,

but wires that thin tend to sag in the middle when burdened by a few hotdogs.

A thicker, stiffer wire is better.

To make it easier to turn the food, a crank is formed by bending the wire at

one end as shown in the labeled photo.

Cooking with the sun

Carefully poke the 3 foot wire spit through the hotdogs or kebabs. Try to

center the food on the spit, so the food will rotate when you rotate the spit,

instead of slipping to keep the heavy part down.

Insert the spit through the food hole, and insert the far end of the wire into the

small focus hole in the far plywood sheet.

Rest the near end of the spit in the small focus hole at the bottom of the food

hole.

Align the solar cooker with the sun. Start with the cooker flat on the ground,

then turn it until it is parallel with your shadow.

The sun will just barely graze both of the plywood sheets when the cooker is

aligned properly (this can be seen in most of the photos on this page).

Next tip one end of the cooker up until the shadow of the spit falls directly on

the center nail at the bottom of the parabola. This can be clearly seen in the

labeled photo.

Hold the remaining scrap of 2x4 up against the back side of the cooker, and

mark where a screw should be placed to hold the cooker at the right elevation.

Screw the screw into the 2x4, leaving an inch or two sticking out to hold the

top 2x4 spreader. If you like, the screw can be placed a little higher up, and

the cooker can be adjusted to the exact angle by tilting the support backwards.

When the cooker is adjusted properly, the sun will be focused on the food,

making bright lines across it (sunglasses are recommended at this phase).

You can see the shadows of the nails on the walls of the cooker. These

shadows should all cross at the focus, where the hotdogs are.

The hotdogs can be seen in the mirror, highly magnified. The shadow of the

hotdogs can be seen being cast by the mirror onto the back side of the hotdogs

in the photo above.

In the photo below, the shadows of the nails can be clearly seen, crossing at

the focus of the parabola.

The hotdogs will start steaming in less than a minute. The spit should be

turned every couple minutes to prevent black lines from being burned into the

food (unless you like your hotdogs with black stripes).

The hotdogs will be quite hot in about 10 minutes, or burned black all over in

about 20 minutes.

Things to notice in the above photo:

1. The shadows of the mirror supports seem to meet at the focus. 2. The shadow of the hotdogs is projected onto the enlarged reflection of

the hotdogs. 3. The enlargement of the hotdogs only occurs in their width, not their

length, because the mirror is only curved in one dimension. 4. The poor hotdogs have been burned to a crisp (oops...).

How does it do that?

A parabola is a shape with some interesting properties that make it perfect for

cooking hotdogs.

The sun is bigger than the earth, and very far away. This means that the

sunlight that hits the earth appears to be in parallel rays.

If we had thousands of tiny mirrors, connected by hinges in a line, and we

tilted each mirror so it would reflect these parallel rays onto one spot, the

mirrors would line up in a parabola.

Mathematically, a parabola is defined as a set of points that are the same

distance from both a point (called the focus) and a straight line (called the

directrix).

The formula for the parabola used in the solar cooker is

y = 0.035x2+2

I chose this formula so the parabola would be deeply curved, and would fit

into the 2 foot by 4 foot plywood sheets. We want the focus to be close to the

mirror, so that as the sun moves, the focus does not move very much.

Having the focus close to the mirror is like having the fulcrum of a lever close

to one end. The sun end of our lever can move a lot, while the hotdog end of

our lever hardly moves at all. This means that we don't have to raise or lower

the cooker very often as the sun moves.

The +2 part of the equation says that the bottom of the parabola will be 2

inches from the bottom of the plywood. This gives us room for the 2x4

spreaders, and room to drill the bottom hole for the support nails.

The bottom of the parabola is called the vertex. The vertex is always halfway

between the focus and the directrix. The distance from the vertex to the focus

is

1

0.035

4

or about 7.14 inches.

A square meter of the earth's surface gets about 1000 watts of power from

sunlight. Our mirror intercepts about 8 square feet of sunlight, or about three

quarters of a square meter.

This means that our cooker is the rough equivalent of a 750 watt electric

stove.

Amazing Little Epsilon! . . . a scale-model pyramid that really works.

by William Kapsaris

What were the wondrous thoughts that inspired the architects of the Great

Pyramid of Cheops at El Giza, Egypt? Did clever earthlings build the giant

pyramid to win the favor of the Pharaoh? Or . . . was its construction the work

of visitors from outer space? Many curious explorers, scientists, and tourists

have tried to solve the mystery. They've been braving the desert for centuries

to examine the ancient pyramid and search for clues.

One thing they had hoped to find was the mathematical ratio used in its

design. In his book, Secrets of the Great Pyramid (Harper & Row, 1971),

Peter Tompkins points out that a number of surveyors measured the pyramid

and tried to pinpoint the ratio. It was a difficult task because most of the

pyramid's outer masonry, including the peak, was missing. Heated debates

resulted, which narrowed down the field, for the most part, to two ratios. One

was pi. (pi = 3.1416: the ratio of the circumference of a circle to its diameter --

Webster) The other one, phi, was a ratio found in nature and praised by artists.

Leonardo da Vinci named it the Golden Section. (golden section, a ratio

between two portions . . . in which the lessor of the two is to the greater as the

greater is to the sum of both: a ratio of approximately 0.6180 to 1.000 --

Random House)

That's a tough act to follow! I've never visited the Great Pyramid, and I

wouldn't have known how to measure it if I had. So I hesitate saying that its

architects may have used another ratio. However, experiments with scale-

models I've made of the Great Pyramid have led me to consider one. It's a

ratio close to phi that produced a very special little pyramid I've named

Epsilon.

Epsilon would be right at home in the desert. It puts on quite a show when the

humidity is low -- 30 percent or less. For instance, when the model is standing

with its base line on magnetic North, the scent of the transparent tape that

holds it together accumulates inside it. Models built on the pi and phi ratios do

not collect the scent, not even a trace.

Epsilon can also amplify the scent of the tape and send it into the air. I'll never

forget the first time it did. That day, because the humidity inside the house

was low, I had taken a few minutes to check on Epsilon before dashing off to

work. The little model was on the dining room table where I had been

experimenting with it. One whiff of its interior told me that it was doing an

excellent job of collecting the tape's scent. For lack of a better idea, I put an

old wristwatch inside it on a stand one third the model's height. (The watch

was a gift I hadn't worn in years, because the luminous paint on its hands and

face was emitting a low level of radioactivity.) After I had realigned the model

with magnetic North, I left for work. When I returned, about ten hours later,

the scent of the tape had filled every room in the house: the dining room, front

room, and kitchen on the first floor, and the two bedrooms and the bathroom

on the second. Not knowing what to expect next, I moved Epsilon into the

two-car garage thirty feet behind the house and set up the experiment.

It took days to air out the house. The scent clung to the drapes, carpeting, and

upholstered furniture. In the mean time, Epsilon had filled the garage with the

scent! Equally baffling, a few hours after I had placed a leaf from a tree next

to the watch inside Epsilon, the air in the garage picked up the strong aroma of

foliage!

True, the watch played an important part in the experiments, but the primary

factor was amazing little Epsilon. What is the mathematical ratio of Epsilon's

design? Computing it is easy -- just divide the height of one side by half its

base length. See Figure 1.

To compare Epsilon with models that have designs based on the pi and phi

ratios, refer to Figures 2 and 3.

To build a scale-model like Epsilon: Scribe outlines of its four sides on

illustration board with the point of a knife. Check the measurements for

accuracy with a ruler graduated in hundredths of an inch. View the

graduations with a 10X power magnifying glass. Use a straightedge as a

guide, and cut out the sides with a knife. Start assembly by taping the inside

edge of each ascending corner of the model, its full length, with 3/4-inch

transparent tape. Then place the model on a flat surface, and tape the exterior

edge of each corner, its full length. Note the illustration in Figure 4. A plan

offered for the stand is in Figure 5.

It may take several attempts to build a model that has little Epsilon's

dimensions, but it'll be worth it. The most exciting and convincing pyramid

experiments of all are the ones performed firsthand. Speed up the process of

building a model that "hits the mark" by assembling several at a time. When

the humidity is low, test them: align them with magnetic North, wait about an

hour, and then check the air inside them. Be on the lookout for a model that

collects the scent of the tape holding it together. Use it to duplicate the

experiments described in this article or to venture into unknown territory.

Perhaps . . . solve the mystery of the Great Pyramid of Cheops!

Please note: The author is not liable for anything that may happen because of

the experiments and ideas presented in this article. He, however, wishes the

reader every success.

,

Frequently Asked Questions

How precise do the measurements have to be?

The measurements are critical. Nevertheless, I've been getting good results

just by taking the care a patient hobbyist would use when building a scale-

model plane or train. With a keen eye and steady hand, one model out of three

will "hit the mark," have the right focal point.

A model pyramid built on Epsilon's design ratio, 1.6171, will have an internal

focal point. But a phi-designed model, with a 10.5 inch base, will have a focal

point about 1 to 2 inches below its base. And a similar size model built on the

pi ratio will have a focal point about 6 to 8 inches below its base.

To find a model's focal point, build a test pad made of layers of cotton or

flannel clothing. Fold and stack the clothing in a pile with a top large enough

to hold a model and about 10 inches deep (Best use disposable garments to

build the test pad, for they may start to decay after a month or so of prolonged

testing). When the humidity is relatively low, place an empty model on the

test pad and align the bottom edge of a side of the model with magnetic north.

Wait about 12 hours. Then check the air in the model. If the model collects the

scent of the tape holding it together, its design is based on Epsilon's design

ratio. If the tape scent collects an inch or two into the test pad, the model's

design is based on the phi ratio. And if the tape scent penetrates 6 to 8 inches

into the test pad, its design is based on the pi ratio.

Where can I find a ruler that measures 100ths of an inch?

Shops that sell equipment to tool-and-die-makers most likely have them.

However, a few years ago I found a 12 inch ruler made by Starrett, Model No.

CB12-16R, at a hardware store.

What part of the model do you align with magnetic north?

I visually align the bottom edge of a side of the model with magnetic north.

Isn't the Great Pyramid aligned with true north?

Yes, it is. The Great Pyramid is aligned with true north to within 3' of a

degree, and magnetic north at the Pyramid's location is approximately 2 deg's

38' east of true north.

Where do you live? What is your latitude and longitude?

I live in Niles, Illinois (a suburb of Chicago, Illinois) in the USA, Lat: 42

deg's 01.5' N, Long: 87 deg's 48.2' W. Magnetic north at my location is

approximately 2 deg's 10.5' west of true north.

Is the watch necessary?

It is. The low level of radioactivity produced by the luminous paint on the

watch's hands and face seems to act as a catalyst to amplify and send into the

air the scent of items placed inside Epsilon. Old watches suitable for this

purpose can be found at resale shops.

Did you patent Epsilon?

No, It's in the public domain. Publishing the essay, "Amazing Little Epsilon,"

put it there.

Has anyone been able to build an Epsilon that works?

Yes. For example, Walter Hedzik, a gentleman on the Epsilon e-mail List,

sent the following message:

I put an Epsilon together from the web site plans, the measurements were off a

little, couldn't or didn't have access to a 100th increment ruler, but even

though it was off there was for two days a tape smell in my garage. After two

days nothing.

All I know is that somethin' was goin' on. I shall try again after I locate a ruler.

The Free energy Flasher

I haven't yet finished building this device but my contact in Houston Texas

assures me it will work

The details sent me are thus:

Try this...get one of those cheap one shot use disposable cameras, tear it apart,

carefully...find the wires that go to the shutter switch and short then out,

connect them together so that they are constantly 'on'

(** the one I tried a Kodak Fun Flash came apart quite easily it does not need

a lot of force ** )

Then take out the batteries....put a long rod into the ground...8 or 9 feet

long...then connect that copper rod to the (-) negative side of where the

batteries hooked up to the camera's strobe...

Make a piece of metal, alumimun foil, large and as long as you can, 3 feet

long at least,

attach it to a wooden pole, just don't let it get grounded okay...then attach (+)

lead that went to the batteries to it.

(webmaster note ** A high single length of wire aerial may also serve the

same purpose as the al foil , it may be also wise to use something other than

wood as your support as this will become conductive to the ground when the

wood becomes wet,use maybe plastic or rubber spacers to attach the foil to

mast ** )

Put the camera's strobe unit into something that will water proof it out

side {** maybe silicon or a clear plastic jar or box..**..}.

It will take about a day for it to charge up and maybe the second day you will

get a couple of flashes from it...during a storm, it will flash more often...dont

just sit around and wait for it to flash...

Just do what ever you normally do...sooner or later you will see it

flash...getting power from the air and earth charging the capacitor and then

firing the camera flash strobe

Water the copper ground rod after you put it into the ground. This

demonstration unit should cost you next to nothing to build. ( **. The Kodak

disposable camera in Australia cost $27.00 the rest can be anything you have

lying around.**)

( webmasters note ** It occurs to me that if you that if you don't solder the

flash shutter but only solder the trigger contacts it may be possible to fire your

unit to flash at your time of choosing , after the large capacitor has received

enough charge ** )

** Please note anything between the asterisks are my comments and are not

part of the construction details received by me.from my contact

By the way the capacitor when charged has a nasty shock in store for anybody

not handling it carefully **)

Noel's Treasures from Trash

To build this Solar water heater you will need:

This vintage 'Noel's Treasure' shows you how to make

a simple solar water heater, and is perfect for

summer

(an aluminium can

(aluminium foil

(a manila folder or other thin cardboard

(a pin

(some black paint

(a set square and a ruler or tape measure

With the sun high in the sky, it's a good time of

year to make a simple solar water heater. One type

is an aluminium can painted black, which can heat

water to around 20 C above air temperature. We can

improve on this by collecting heat using a reflector

shaped like a parabola.

The parabola

This is a special curve that makes light coming

straight into the reflector focus at a single point

in front of it. This parabolic dish uses the same

principle as the sophisticated solar trough on the

front cover of this issue of ReNew

To draw your parabola for the water heater, put an

aluminium drink can on a big sheet of paper and draw

around the tin to make a circle. Draw two lines at

right angles through the centre of this circle, one

vertical and one horizontal.

Measure 15cm from the centre of the circle along the

vertical line and draw a line at 90 across the end

of your vertical line. This is the baseline. Put a

pin in the middle of the circle, where the first two

lines cross. This is the focal point.

Holding one end of the set square against the pin,

with its 90 corner touching the baseline, draw a

series of lines starting at the corner of the square

where it touches the baseline out toward the edge of

the paper. There is no need to draw lines from the

pin to the baseline. The lines you have drawn form a

parabola that focuses at the pin. You can see

Figure 1

How to draw a parabola using a few basic drawing

tools

Making the reflector

Our reflector will be made of cardboard covered in

aluminium foil and will be about 30cm wide. To make

the reflector, get a piece of cardboard about 20 x

30cm. Apiece of manila folder board or one side of a

breakfast cereal box is ideal. Cover the cardboard

with aluminium foil, shiny side out, using paste or

tape. Along the long side, make 2cm deep cuts into

the cardboard about 1cm apart.

Bend the cardboard segments at right angles,

alternately one out, one in. These will be the

'feet' of the reflector.

Stick the parabola you drew earlier onto a piece of

thick cardboard and pin or tape the reflector along

the line of the parabola.

It should look something like the photo above. You

have now made a parabolic reflector.

The water tank

Paint your aluminium can a dull black, and when the

paint is dry, fill the can with water and stand it

at the focal point of the parabolic reflector. Face

the reflector towards the sun and in about half an

hour you will have hot water. The heater will work a

little better if you fix the can to the parabola and

tilt it back towards the sky.

You will have to move your reflector to keep it

facing the sun, which moves at about 15 degrees per

hour. This is called tracking.

Good luck and have fun!

Noel's Treasures from Trash

To build this Solar water heater you will need:

This vintage 'Noel's Treasure' shows you how to make

a simple solar water heater, and is perfect for

summer

(an aluminium can

(aluminium foil

(a manila folder or other thin cardboard

(a pin

(some black paint

(a set square and a ruler or tape measure

With the sun high in the sky, it's a good time of

year to make a simple solar water heater. One type

is an aluminium can painted black, which can heat

water to around 20 C above air temperature. We can

improve on this by collecting heat using a reflector

shaped like a parabola.

The parabola

This is a special curve that makes light coming

straight into the reflector focus at a single point

in front of it. This parabolic dish uses the same

principle as the sophisticated solar trough on the

front cover of this issue of ReNew

To draw your parabola for the water heater, put an

aluminium drink can on a big sheet of paper and draw

around the tin to make a circle. Draw two lines at

right angles through the centre of this circle, one

vertical and one horizontal.

Measure 15cm from the centre of the circle along the

vertical line and draw a line at 90 across the end

of your vertical line. This is the baseline. Put a

pin in the middle of the circle, where the first two

lines cross. This is the focal point.

Holding one end of the set square against the pin,

with its 90 corner touching the baseline, draw a

series of lines starting at the corner of the square

where it touches the baseline out toward the edge of

the paper. There is no need to draw lines from the

pin to the baseline. The lines you have drawn form a

parabola that focuses at the pin. You can see

Figure 1

How to draw a parabola using a few basic drawing

tools

Making the reflector

Our reflector will be made of cardboard covered in

aluminium foil and will be about 30cm wide. To make

the reflector, get a piece of cardboard about 20 x

30cm. Apiece of manila folder board or one side of a

breakfast cereal box is ideal. Cover the cardboard

with aluminium foil, shiny side out, using paste or

tape. Along the long side, make 2cm deep cuts into

the cardboard about 1cm apart.

Bend the cardboard segments at right angles,

alternately one out, one in. These will be the

'feet' of the reflector.

Stick the parabola you drew earlier onto a piece of

thick cardboard and pin or tape the reflector along

the line of the parabola.

It should look something like the photo above. You

have now made a parabolic reflector.

The water tank

Paint your aluminium can a dull black, and when the

paint is dry, fill the can with water and stand it

at the focal point of the parabolic reflector. Face

the reflector towards the sun and in about half an

hour you will have hot water. The heater will work a

little better if you fix the can to the parabola and

tilt it back towards the sky.

You will have to move your reflector to keep it

facing the sun, which moves at about 15 degrees per

hour. This is called tracking.

Good luck and have fun!

SCIENCE FAIR PROJECT

Build yourself these simple fuel cells

you will need:

three small jars, about 150ml

six pieces of stainless steel about 45 x 90mm that will fit inside the jars.

You can use old stainless steel knives from op-shops

one teaspoon of baking soda (sodium

bicarbonate)

plastic orange bag mesh

a small DC power supply about six to

nine volts

some hook-up wire or other thin insulated wire

waterproof glue

a LED (light emitting diode), any colour. Most electronic equipment has

these. Alternatively, use a small electronic buzzer

a multimeter if you have one

tinsnips, pliers and some rubber bands.

The principle of the fuel cell has been known for a long time, but it is now

used in spacecraft, power plants, submarines, even to power video

cameras.

They work by allowing two high energy substances, like the gases

Hydrogen and Oxygen, to combine to form a lower energy substance such

as water.

In the process, heat and electricity are formed.

To combine properly some form of catalyst is needed. Platinum is a good

catalyst, but it is rare and very expensive. Nickel and cobalt also work,

and nickel is a component of stainless steel.

Our fuel cell will work by breaking up some water into hydrogen and

oxygen using our DC power supply We will then remove the power

source, and the hydrogen and oxygen should recombine and produce a

small amount of electricity.

While our fuel cells will not be very efficient, they will show the principles

behind the larger commercially made units.

Start by cutting the stainless steel to hook up wire to one. This can be

done by soldering with a silver based solder, or just by bending over a

small part of the stainless steel, trapping the bared end of the wire in the

fold.

Bare the other end of the wire and attach it to the next piece of stainless

steel. When you have finished, you should have two strings of three

plates, with one end plate in each string having a 200mm or so piece of

wire attached for hooking up to the power supply

Each plate should now be wrapped in a small piece of the plastic mesh,

which is secured with a rubber band. This acts as a separator to prevent

the plates shorting together, as well as to help hold the bubbles of gas on

the plates.

You can use the waterproof glue to insulate the plates where the wires are

connected. You can see what it looks like in Figure 1.

Each pair of plates is placed inside a jar. The jars are then filled with

water into which has been dissolved a teaspoon of sodium bicarbonate.

This allows the water to conduct electricity.

Now connect the power supply to the cells, one wire to each end of the

string of cells. After a while you should see tiny bubbles appearing on the

surface of the plates. Now disconnect the power supply and quickly

connect the wires to the LED or buzzer to see what happens. The LED

should light briefly or the buzzer should buzz. If not, you may have them

connected the wrong way around. Swap the wires to see what happens.

A flat panel solar cell

I made a more portable version of the solar cell in a flat panel form. I used

the clear plastic top from a plastic CD jewel case as the window, and lots of

silicone rubber glue to both attach the pieces together and to insulate them

from each other.

The first step is to make a cuprous oxide plate like we did in the first

solar cell. This time I sanded one corner clean all the way down to the

shiny copper, and soldered an insulated copper wire to it for the negative

lead.

The positive plate is a U shaped piece cut from the copper sheeting, a little

bit larger than the cuprous oxide plate, with the cutout portion of the U a

little bit smaller than the cuprous oxide plate. Another insulated copper

wire is soldered to one corner of the U.

The first step in construction is to glue the U shaped copper plate to the

plastic window. Use plenty of silicone glue, so the saltwater won't leak

out. Make sure that the solder connection is either completely covered

with glue, or is outside of the glue U, as shown in the photo (completely

covered in glue is best).

The photo below shows the back side of the solar cell (the side not facing

the sun) at this point in the construction.

The photo below shows the front side of the solar cell (the side that will

face the sun) at this point in the construction. Notice that the silicone glue

does not completely cover the copper, since some of the copper must

eventually be in contact with the saltwater.

The next step is to lay a good size bead of glue onto the U shaped clean

copper plate. This layer will act as an insulator between the clean copper

plate and the cuprous oxide plate, and must be thick enough to leave

some room for the saltwater. Again, not all of the copper is covered, so

there will be plenty of copper in contact with the saltwater.

Gently press the cuprous oxide plate onto this layer of glue. You should

press hard enough to make sure the glue seals off any gaps, but not so

hard that the two plates touch.

The photo below shows the back side of the solar cell (the side not facing

the sun) at this point in the construction.

The photo below shows the front side of the solar cell (the side that will

face the sun) at this point in the construction. Note that I added extra glue

to form a funnel at the top to allow the saltwater to be added.

You can click on the photo above to get a bigger picture. Not shown in the

photo is a generous extra bead of glue all around the outside of the plates,

to ensure that no saltwater will leak out. Allow the glue to cure before

going on to the next step.

Next, use a large eyedropper to add the saltwater. Fill the cell up almost

to the top of the copper plate, so it almost spills out. Then seal the funnel

with another generous bead of glue, and allow the glue to cure at least a

half hour.

In the photo above you can see the flat panel solar cell in action in the

bright sun. It is delivering about 36 microamperes of current. You can also

see the extra bead of glue around the edges of the plates, and filling the

top of the funnel.

Finally, another shot of the author's shadow. Note that the meter now

reads about 4 microamperes, since no sunlight is falling on it. More making

a solarcell

Send mail to Simon Quellen Field via leven@scitoys.com

For those interested in making a more practical solar cell the following

information may prove helpful

Home Made Solar Cells

THE 100 WATT SOLAR CELL: It is actually called the Situ Solar Cell,and my

source has supplied details as follows:

New SOLAR CELLS

What is the [in situ] solar cell process?

That is the big breakthrough in solar cell design that drops the cost of

solar power to $90 per kilowatt. Actually, the [in situ] (Latin for in place)

technique is stunningly simple. Instead of refining the silicon and then

building cells, you build the cells first and then refine the silicon.

The process generates a cell from ordinary beach sand (silicon dioxide).

After cell fabrication, the sand is chemically treated. The reaction drives

off the oxygen, leaving an almost pure polycrystalline silicon. Most

conveniently. any remaining impurities rearrange themselves to form

uniformly doped series connected p.n. junctions through a process celled

Barefoot Layering. For each centimeter of cell thickness, you typically get

several hundred series p.n. junctions or about 120 volts dc under normal

sunlight. The thickness of the panel determines the voltage and the area

the current. Typical current densities are four amperes per square meter

of panel!

You can easily build a 100 watt cell. Simply take an ordinary metal

cookie sheet, cover it uniformly with a 1 centimeter thick layer of beach

sand, cover that with a piece of screening for the front collector, add a

protective glass cover, and clamp everything together with large rubber

bands, bungee cords, or something similar.

To do your final chemical refinement, carefully remove the glass cover

and spray the sand with two liters of 3,7 Dimethylpentadecon-2-ol

Propionate (available from larger organic chemical supply houses). [If

any body finds a source for this let me know.] An ordinary window

cleaner bottle makes a handy spray source. Reaction time is four hours,

Since the reaction is photoisentropic It should be done under magenta

safe light, such as that from a Portal Industries JJ-668 source.

The front terminal is positive and the greatest output will be obtained

when the panel is pointed due south at an elevation of your latitude plus

ten degrees. A group of panels can, of course, be wired in parallel for

independent, on-site power.

If anyone builds one of these situ solar cells let me know how you get on

Geoff

SCIENCE FAIR PROJECT

Build yourself these simple fuel cells

you will need:

three small jars, about 150ml

six pieces of stainless steel about 45 x 90mm that will fit inside the jars.

You can use old stainless steel knives from op-shops

one teaspoon of baking soda (sodium

bicarbonate)

plastic orange bag mesh

a small DC power supply about six to

nine volts

some hook-up wire or other thin insulated wire

waterproof glue

a LED (light emitting diode), any colour. Most electronic equipment has

these. Alternatively, use a small electronic buzzer

a multimeter if you have one

tinsnips, pliers and some rubber bands.

The principle of the fuel cell has been known for a long time, but it is now

used in spacecraft, power plants, submarines, even to power video

cameras.

They work by allowing two high energy substances, like the gases

Hydrogen and Oxygen, to combine to form a lower energy substance such

as water.

In the process, heat and electricity are formed.

To combine properly some form of catalyst is needed. Platinum is a good

catalyst, but it is rare and very expensive. Nickel and cobalt also work,

and nickel is a component of stainless steel.

Our fuel cell will work by breaking up some water into hydrogen and

oxygen using our DC power supply We will then remove the power

source, and the hydrogen and oxygen should recombine and produce a

small amount of electricity.

While our fuel cells will not be very efficient, they will show the principles

behind the larger commercially made units.

Start by cutting the stainless steel to hook up wire to one. This can be

done by soldering with a silver based solder, or just by bending over a

small part of the stainless steel, trapping the bared end of the wire in the

fold.

Bare the other end of the wire and attach it to the next piece of stainless

steel. When you have finished, you should have two strings of three

plates, with one end plate in each string having a 200mm or so piece of

wire attached for hooking up to the power supply

Each plate should now be wrapped in a small piece of the plastic mesh,

which is secured with a rubber band. This acts as a separator to prevent

the plates shorting together, as well as to help hold the bubbles of gas on

the plates.

You can use the waterproof glue to insulate the plates where the wires are

connected. You can see what it looks like in Figure 1.

Each pair of plates is placed inside a jar. The jars are then filled with

water into which has been dissolved a teaspoon of sodium bicarbonate.

This allows the water to conduct electricity.

Now connect the power supply to the cells, one wire to each end of the

string of cells. After a while you should see tiny bubbles appearing on the

surface of the plates. Now disconnect the power supply and quickly

connect the wires to the LED or buzzer to see what happens. The LED

should light briefly or the buzzer should buzz. If not, you may have them

connected the wrong way around. Swap the wires to see what happens.

The AquaFuel(tm)generator

How to generate gasfrom water for use as Fuel

created on 12-06-98 - JLN Labs- last update on 12-08-98

Today ( on 12-06-98 ), I have built and reproduced successfully a very simple

AquaFuel™ generator:

"The AquaFuelTM is anonfossil combustible gas discovered by Mr. Bill

Richardson and currently developed by Technology Licensing (TTL)> of

Largo, Florida, which is produced by an electric discharge of carbon arcs

within distilled, fresh, salt or other types of water, thus beingessentially

composed of Hydrogen, Oxygen, Carbon and their compounds". This

technology has already been patented

(US#5,159,900and US#5,417,817and US#5,435,274).

This generator produces a mixture of carbon monoxide and hydrogen(COH2)

and this is a gas wich burns very cleanly inoxygen or air, and it can be used as

fuel for an internalcombustion engine. When burned, COH2 produces

carbondioxide and water vapor, so it generates very little, if any,pollution to

the environnement.

This simple experiment is only fortesting purposes and only for a proof of

the concept. This small generator can't be used for a long working period

and it must beused only for demonstration.

You need to get very few materials and it is verysimple to build and test it....

BeCarefull, this device generates an explosive gas, you must conduct this test

in awell ventiled room or better in open air,you must not smoke during the

test.. Don't forget that the carbonmonoxide ( CO ) is a very toxic gas,

so neverbreath this gas beforeburningit. This experiment is not intended for

the inexperienced. User of this document should be verycarefull to try

anything out ! If you do it the risk of anyresults is just yours. I take no

responsibility of anything that might happen, let it be of a wrong information

or anything else.

You need only to get :

- A little plastic soda bottle,

- two carbon rods ( 70mm length, 6mm diam )

- one 1 ohm 50Watts resistor

- a DC Power supply which is able to deliver 35v / 10A

- some wires, plugs and silicon cement.

Very few material is needed.....

1) Drill two opposite holes (10mm diam)at 60mm from the bottom of the

bottle and insert the carbon rodswith a rubber washer and glue the

washer with silicon cement. Isuggest you to make one of the carbon rod

into round shape. Thetwo carbon rods must be just slightly

incontact before you switch on (see below).

2) Connect the 1 ohm 50W resistor inseries with one of carbon rod and

one pole of your DC power supply( set for 34V/15A DC), the other pole of

your power supply isconnected to the other carbone rod. You may add

some additionalmultimeters for measuring the Current and the Voltage

input. Fillup your generator with only distilled or fresh water.

4) Now, your are ready to produceAquaFuel(tm)......

For more technical informations, you mayvisite the main TTL web site

at http://www.toupstech.com/aquafuel/index.html

AquaFuel™ is a registered trademark of Toups TechnologyLicensing

(TTL)

Some reference documents :

- Infinite Energy Vol.2, No9, 1996

- Infinite Energy Vol.2, No10, 1996

- Infinite Energy Vol.2, No11, 1997

- Infinite Energy Vol.4, No19, 1998

Su casa puede ser calentado de esta

manera.

Le enviaremos más imágenes en contacto con nosotros.

Nuestro objetivo aquí para generar lluvia de ideas e influir en la opinión pública. Por lo

tanto, esperamos también que el texto es comprensible para todos. Específicamente es

ción para los profesionales, los científicos (electrónica, técnico), sino también los

políticos, los economistas, etc, que nos puede hacer beneficio,. . si lo desean. - Si tiene

alguna pregunta o si tiene grandes soluciones o bien sólo a ti mismo, sentir más que

bienvenido a E-mail a layo@compuserve.com Le reflejar si desea hacerlo.

Una patente olvidado!

Usted encontrará aquí la transcripción exacta del 30 de junio 1982 Publicación de Patente Europea

N ° 0055134A1 permitiendo un coche efectivamente se ejecuta en agua y poco aluminio (I Gk. A 1 $

por 400 millas) sin ningún tipo de contaminación alguna.

Inventor: Sr. Francois P. Cornualles, Reino Unido.

Visto por última vez en Canadá (verano 1988). Somos incapaces de localizarlo desde hace ya varios años

que es bastante molestando. Si usted (el lector) a saber de él o conocer su lugar, por favor póngase en

contacto con nosotros o pedirle que nos contacte. Webmasters enlace por favor esta información salvar

el planeta pero sí también reflejan en su sitio

lo más pronto posible . - Y

se refieren a: www.layo.com. Todas las fotografías son nuestra propia creación cuando se visita el Sr.

Cornish en Londres en 1983 y con derechos de autor.

Especificaciones: El agua se divide en hidrógeno y oxígeno

o El oxígeno es hábilmente combinados con aluminio o El hidrógeno se recogió y se pulverizó en un carburador estándar como

con metano-gas. Un coche de 900 Kilo corre 600 kilómetros en el agua de 20 litros y un kilo de

aluminio. o Energía limpia, una vez puesto en aluminio de 1 Kg $ /, refinación de

bauxita, se lanza aquí en primer lugar

hacer inofensivo el oxígeno.

¿Por qué no vemos estos coches todavía?

En esa época ('81), sólo algunas pequeñas dificultades existentes (véase la carta de

BMW).

velocidad Visto en desarrollos electrónicos el próximo podría ser fácil hoy en día. Por

favor, piense a lo siguiente:

Para desarrollar una manera suave para deshacerse del polvo de óxido de

aluminio de la parte inferior del depósito de agua. Encuentra un control absolutamente seguro de señalización si el oxígeno se

mantiene aunque el BMW-carta no está hablando acerca de ese punto.

No experimentar si usted es incompetente , . . . recuerde combinar O ² y ² H es muy peligroso ---

usan sensores de

oxígeno.

Permitir a los ingenieros de atacar este tema antes de que este planeta se

está quedando sin tiempo!.

Reporteros Usted sabe cómo

este tema es

controversial.

Sólo la opinión

pública lo hará,. . .

All of You

imprimir, compartir, apoyo, y

votar a la derecha!

Webmasters:

LINK!

Una carta de BMW sobre el tema

BMW AG Postfach 40 40040 Muenchen Referencias:

3895-5538

05 de noviembre 1981

PROPUESTA DE MEJORA

Estimado Sr. Cornish,

En respuesta a su télex de 17 de octubre, nuestros resultados hasta la fecha son

los siguientes:

La unidad como presente montado en un coche 2000cc produce gas suficiente

para alimentar el motor de forma continua.

El consumo de aluminio promediados en 180 cm por minuto a través de una

prueba de 70 minutos ejecutar.

Con el condensador (según su especificación) conectados, hemos sido capaces

de trabajar en nuestro entorno 14v.

La temperatura del agua se mantuvo baja, e incluso sin el sistema de radiación

resultó ser así entre sus límites.

No se encontró ácido en análisis después de la prueba.

Nosotros, sin embargo siento que un área posible problema puede ser la

eliminación de los depósitos de óxido. ¿Podría usted por favor, háganos saber

lo que sus resultados han sido en este lado.

Le saluda atentamente,

Bayerische Motoren Werke Aktiengesellschaft

Servicio División

IV Henseler

V. Krause

Aquí sigue un texto completo de este descuidado

junio, 30, 1982 Publicación de Patente Europea N ° 0055134A1

Antecedentes de la invención (texto 8/8/96 OCR-escaneada y corregida en parte ..)

Esta invención se refiere a la generación de hidrógeno.

Ya se ha propuesto para sustituir a los combustibles convencionales con hidrógeno en el

funcionamiento de motores de combustión interna. Propuestas convencionales son para

producir hidrógeno por electrólisis del agua y luego para almacenar el hidrógeno en una

forma u otra. Ningún sistema de almacenamiento económicamente viable para el gas de

hidrógeno altamente explosivo ha sido aún desarrollado. Cualquiera sea el sistema que

se desarrolló implicaría tanques bastante masivas de algún tipo u otro y las precauciones

para evitar explosiones. La presente invención se basa en el deseo del inventor a ser

capaz de proporcionar hidrógeno en la demanda de materiales que son en sí mismos

seguro de manejar.

Resumen de la invención . Según la invención, un método de generación de hidrógeno

comprende las etapas de exposición de una superficie metálica fresca al agua y al

calentamiento de la interfase entre la superficie metálica y el agua por lo menos a la

temperatura más baja a la que el metal reacciona con agua para formar un óxido

metálico y hidrógeno, el metal que se escogen de los metales que son más altos en la

serie electromotriz de hidrógeno y que tiene características de manejo estables y

seguros. Preferiblemente, la superficie del metal está expuesta y se calentó la interfaz

pulsando un electrodo del metal correspondiente en contra de un segundo electrodo bajo

el agua y la aplicación de un alto voltaje entre los electrodos mientras que

preferiblemente mover las superficies de los electrodos relativamente entre sí.

En otras palabras, en la forma preferida de la invención de hidrógeno se forma creando

una descarga sumergida eléctrica entre dos electrodos al menos uno de los cuales está

hecho de un metal como se define anteriormente.

La descarga eléctrica y el movimiento relativo entre las superficies de los electrodos

asegurar que las superficies frescas de metal están expuestas al agua, mientras que al

mismo tiempo la descarga calienta la interfaz entre los electrodos y el agua a la

temperatura deseada a la que el metal reacciona con el agua para formar su óxido y para

liberar hidrógeno.

También en la forma preferida de la invención rile metal es aluminio, que tiene la

ventaja de que es relativamente abundante en el suministro relativamente barato está

formada con una capa protectora de óxido en sus superficies expuestas y reacciona con

el agua a una temperatura relativamente baja. Alambre de aluminio alimentado contra

un tambor giratorio de aluminio se ha encontrado que da excelentes resultados para

proporcionar hidrógeno para la alimentación de pequeños motores de combustión

interna.

Una manera conveniente de asegurar la alta tensión necesaria es emplear el distribuidor

convencional y disposición de bobina que proporciona la chispa para un motor de

combustión interna. Dos bobinas en paralelo alimentadas desde un distribuidor común

se ha encontrado que da excelentes resultados. Otros métodos de generar altos voltajes

de the.comtery o el eje de accionamiento de un motor de combustión interna también

puede ser utilizado. El método de la invención se presta de una manera excelente para

suministrar hidrógeno en la demanda. En este caso se alimenta hidrógeno a un almacén

intermedio y pequeño ya que la presión en el almacén excede un nivel predeterminado,

los electrodos están separados de manera que la generación de hidrógeno se

interrumpe. A medida que la presión descienda a un cierto nivel de los electrodos se

alimenta de nuevo uno hacia el otro.

Breve descripción de los dibujos

La invención se describirá adicionalmente, a modo de ejemplo, con referencia a los

dibujos adjuntos, en los que: la Figura 1 es una representación esquemática de un

aparato para la generación de hidrógeno, y sirve para alimentar un vehículo de motor, y

la figura 2 muestra una parte de un circuito eléctrico apropiado.

DESCRIPCIÓN DE UNA REALIZACIÓN PREFERIDA

En la realización ilustrada hay un tanque de generación de 10 alimentado con agua de

un tanque de almacenamiento 11 a través de una válvula de flotador 12 para mantener el

1o nivel de agua en el tanque 10 sustancialmente constante. Cuando el aparato se utiliza

en un vehículo de motor, el depósito 11 puede tomar el lugar del depósito de

combustible convencional del vehículo con una bomba 14 en la línea 15 para bombear

más agua en el tanque 10 cuando la posición del flotador 12 indica que esto se

requiere. El agua se consume como se genera hidrógeno, y así el depósito 11 tiene que

ser recargado periódicamente. El tanque de generar 10 está en comunicación con un

intercambiador de calor refrigerado por aire 16, que puede adoptar la misma forma

como un radiador de motor de coche convencional.

El tanque de generar 10 está coronada por un recipiente de recogida 17 de la que el

hidrógeno es extraído a través de un orificio restringido 18 de un motor de combustión

interna. Dentro del depósito 10 hay un tambor 19 accionado por cualquier medio

adecuado para girar a una velocidad constante. El tambor 19 está hecho de

aluminio. Una pestaña 20 proporciona una función de sello de agua a la esquina

superior izquierda del depósito 10, de modo que esa esquina no está en comunicación de

gas con el recipiente 17.

Una bobina 21 de alambre de aluminio 22 se alimenta a través de una unidad de Push-

Pull 23, del tipo utilizado para alimentar alambre de soldadura a los dispositivos de

soldadura por arco de argón. La unidad 23 está dispuesto para alimentar el alambre

contra la superficie

del tambor 19 y para atravesar el alambre a lo largo de la longitud del tambor en una

barra 24. el cable pasa a lo largo de un manguito aislante 25 que entra en el tanque 10 a

través de, un sello limpiador adecuado.

En el recipiente 17 hay un sensor de presión 26 conectado a una unidad de control

27. Cuando el sensor de presión detecta una presión por encima de un valor

predeterminado, las señales de la unidad de control 27 que a su vez detiene la unidad 23

de alambre de manera que ya no es alimentada hacia el tambor 19. Cuando la presión

cae de nuevo, se reanuda la alimentación.

En uso, la bobina 21 está conectada al lado de alta tensión de las bobinas de encendido

de dos o transformadores 30 y 33. Estos transformadores tienen arrollamientos

primarios 31 y 34 y secundarias, Nigh devanados de tensión 32 y 35. A 36 condensador

está conectado a las conexiones de alta tensión. Los terminales 28 y 29 están conectados

a un vehicle.comtery convencional.

En el punto de contacto entre el extremo del alambre 22 y el tambor 19 una descarga

eléctrica tiene lugar. Como resultado las superficies metálicas adyacentes se calientan a

alta temperatura de la película protectora de óxido que se forma naturalmente en

superficies de aluminio expuestas se interrumpe, y las superficies de aluminio expuestas

reaccionan con el agua. De hecho, la situación electroquímica en la interfaz es tal que el

alambre 22 se consume con la siguiente reacción tiene lugar.

2AL 3 h2o ---- A12 + 3H2

Como resultado, las burbujas de hidrógeno desde el punto de contacto, mientras que el

óxido de aluminio se acumula como un polvo blanco en la base del depósito 10. Una

rejilla 37 en la parte inferior del tanque permite que el polvo pase a través, y después

mantiene el polvo sustancialmente libre de corrientes en el tanque 10. El hidrógeno pasa

a través del recipiente 17 y el orificio 18 al carburador de un motor de combustión

interna.

Puede haber una tendencia a que las burbujas de hidrógeno a adherirse a la superficie

del tambor 19 que gira en la dirección indicada por la flecha 38. para evitar que esto

Para evitar que esto suceda una hoja Wipper 39

puede estar situado en la posición mostrada en la Figura 1, a fin de separar las burbujas

adheridas de la superficie del tambor.

Alternativamente, una escobilla de limpiaparabrisas 40 puede estar dispuesta en el lado

opuesto del tambor. En este caso un pequeño volumen de gas hidrógeno puede recoger

5 debajo de esta hoja, y puede ser posible pivotar la cuchilla 40, liberando de este modo

este bolsillo de hidrógeno con el fin de facilitar el arranque de un motor alimentado por

el hidrógeno.

Puede ser posible usar el agua salada en el tanque 10, en lugar de agua fresca.

El tambor 19 preferiblemente gira a una velocidad entre 400 y 700 rpm, pero la rotación

puede ser tan lento como 50 rpm.

Durante las operaciones de la temperatura del agua en el depósito 10 puede elevarse tan

alto como 95 ° C, aunque es probable que una unidad montada en un vehículo en

movimiento, por ejemplo, será capaz de mantener el agua a una temperatura más baja.

Una unidad sustancialmente como se muestra en los dibujos se ha utilizado para

accionar un motor de 500 cc motor de ciclo. El alambre 22 tenía un diámetro de 1,6 mm

y era de pureza comercial (98 ° '~ A1). La unidad producido más de 1000 cc de

hidrógeno de un minuto, con una tasa de consumo de alambre de aluminio de 140 a 180

cm por minuto. La tasa de deposición de óxido de aluminio fue de aproximadamente 4

kilogramos por cada 500 kilómetros recorridos.

Modificaciones convencionales se hicieron para el carburador para permitir que el

motor funcione en una mezcla de hidrógeno y aire. El cable 22 lleva una tensión de

alrededor de 18000 voltios con una corriente de aproximadamente 1 amperio.

La invención puede ser igualmente usado para suministrar energía a los motores fijos

industriales, así como los motores de vehículos de motor.

RECLAMACIONES

1 - Aparato para la generación de hidrógeno que comprende un depósito 10 para

contener agua, una superficie de metal (22) dispuesto en el depósito, medios para

calentar la superficie por lo menos a la temperatura más baja a la que el metal reacciona

con el agua para formar un óxido de metal y de hidrógeno , y una cámara (17) para

recoger el hidrógeno generado.

2 - Aparato como el reivindicado en la reivindicación 1, en el que la superficie metálica

(22) es de aluminio.

3 - Aparato según la reivindicación 1 o la reivindicación 2, en el que el medio para

calentar la superficie en una descarga eléctrica entre la superficie (22) y otro electrodo

(14)

4 -

Aparato como el reivindicado 4, en el que una superficie de metal segundo (19) i

dispuesto en el tanque, y se proporcionan medios para mover una superficie (19)

respecto a la otra, las dos superficies están conectadas en un circuito eléctrico (Figura 2)

de manera que forman electrodos entre los cuales una descarga eléctrica puede tener

lugar.

5 - Aparato como el reivindicado en la reivindicación 4, en el que la superficie del metal

es aluminio segundo (19).

6. Aparato como el reivindicado en la reivindicación 4 o la reivindicación 5, en el que la

primera superficie de metal (22) es un alambre y la superficie del metal segundo (19) es

un tambor, el tambor está montado para rotación y el alambre que se está soportado de

manera que se aproxima a la cilíndrica superficie del tambor en un ángulo a una

tangente a la superficie del tambor.

7. Aparato como el reivindicado en la reivindicación 6, en el que el alambre (22) está

soportada por un dispositivo (23) que alimenta continuamente el alambre, como se

consume, hacia la superficie del tambor (19).

8. Aparato como el reivindicado en la reivindicación 7, en el que los medios (26,27) se

proporcionan para detectar la presión de gas hidrógeno en la cámara (17) y para la

regulación de la velocidad de alimentación del dispositivo de alimentación de alambre

(23) de acuerdo con la presión detectada, para controlar la salida de hidrógeno.

9. Aparato como el reivindicado en cualquier reivindicación precedente, en el que el

depósito (10) está conectado a un intercambiador de calor (16), de modo que el agua

pueda circular desde el depósito, a través del intercambiador de calor, y de vuelta al

depósito.

10. Un método de generación de hidrógeno que comprende las etapas de exposición de

una superficie metálica fresca (22) a agua y calentamiento de la interfase entre la

superficie metálica y el agua por lo menos a la temperatura más baja a la que el metal

reacciona con el agua para formar un óxido de metal y de hidrógeno , el metal que se

está seleccionado a partir de metales que son más altos en la serie electromotriz de

hidrógeno y que tienen características de manejo estables y seguros.

11. Un método como se reivindica en la reivindicación 10, en el que el metal (22) es de

aluminio, y una superficie metálica fresca se expone y se calentó la interfaz pulsando un

electrodo de aluminio (22) contra un segundo electrodo (19) bajo el agua y la aplicación

de un alto voltaje entre los electrodos.