how to build a warrior tournament of champions scale

How to build a

Warrior Tournament of Champions

Scale Electric Football Field

By: Jerry McGhee

© March 2013 [email protected]

1

A Message from the Author

Welcome to the wonderful world of Do-It-Yourself in electric football!! I have been

building my own scale electric football game boards since 1998. I have built

approximately 36 scale game boards since then. What I have designed and

conveyed to you in this document should bring you years of enjoyment!

This scale of electric football fields opens up the game and makes for a more

satisfied experience for your coaching enjoyment.

In January 2013 the Miniature Football Coaches Association (MFCA) & I hosted a new stop on the MFCA Tournament

of Champions (TOC) Series, the Warrior TOC in Lakeland, FL. The tournament was played on scale “Warrior TOC”

game boards and that is what you will be building if you complete these instructions.

The scale of these game boards is is ½” = 1 yard. If you take the time to build this game board you will not be

disappointed. Take your time, read the instructions through carefully and don’t be afraid to get help if you need it. Note

the periodic warnings as they could save your life! If you modify this, go for it, however I cannot guarantee you will

have the same successful results as I have had.

Many people ask me if I will build a game board for them. The answer is yes, however, I do not ship my game boards.

If you want me to build a game board for you, you have to come to my house in Florida and pick it up. I do not bend on

this rule.

My hope is that you will try and build this game board, enjoy playing on it and I know it will open up new dimensions

and possibilities in your electric football experience. I plan on hosting the Warrior TOC every year here in Lakeland,

FL. I hope to see you here so you can experience these scale electric football game boards in a very competitive setting

and I hope you enjoy playing on this scale field I have designed for you!

Sincerely, Jerry McGhee 2

How to build a Warrior Tournament of Champions

Scale Electric Football Field

Table of Contents

Building Segment 1: The Playing Surface

Building Segment 2: The Frame

Building Segment 3: The Motors

Building Segment 4: Wiring

Building Segment 5: Frame Finishing

Building Segment 6: Frame Stickers

Building Segment 7: Tuning The Motors

Building Segment 8: Field Accessories

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Building Segment 1:

The Playing Surface

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Step 1: Gather your materials You will need the following to complete this segment: a. One 24 or 22 Gauge piece of sheet

metal cut to 66 ½ “ x 33 ½ “

b. A clean surface to work on.

c. One spray bottle filled with soap and water

d. Large Magnets (or you can use tape)

e. A plastic squeegee tool (blue item in picture)

f. Field cover

g. X-acto knife with #11 blade

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Step 2: Place Field Cover on Sheet Metal Before you peel the adhesive layer off of the back of your field cover, lay the entire field cover over the sheet metal. After you line up your outer edges and ensure no sheet metal is showing, place the large magnets on one half of the field cover to hold it in place as shown in this photo.

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Step 3: Pull Back Field Cover Pull one half of the field cover back over the other half.

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Step 4: Remove the Adhesive protection layer You may now remove the adhesive protection layer from the half of the field cover that we just pulled back. Let the protective layer lay flat on the sheet metal half.

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Step 5: Cut the protective layer away Using an X-Acto knife, cut the entire width of the protective layer, make sure that you’re not cutting the field cover. Pull the protective layer away and throw it away.

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Step 6: Prepare the sheet metal Now that the protective layer has been removed, make sure the sheet metal is free of dust and debris. Take a clean brush or a clean cloth and go over the sheet metal to make sure there is ABSOLUTELY no foreign particles such as crumbs or hair.

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Step 7: Apply Soap & Water Grab your spray bottle with soap & water. I used regular tap water with two drops of dawn dish detergent. Spray the sticky side of the exposed field cover and the exposed side of the sheet metal with ample soap & water.

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Step 8: Pull ½ of field cover onto sheet metal Carefully bring ½ of the field cover back onto the sheet metal. Grab your squeegee, start at the center of the 50 yard line and move the squeegee toward the sideline you are standing on. The soap and water will come out at the sideline. Have a paper towel waiting to soak it up so it doesn’t get sucked back up under the field cover. Now do the same procedure in 5 yard increments all the way down the field cover. Then do the other sideline half.

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Step 9: Apply the remaining half Now that you have squeegeed all of the soap and water from under your field cover, take the magnets off of the ½ of the board you were holding down and for safe keeping transfer them to the other half of the field. Now repeat steps 2-8 of this segment until you have the field cover applied to the sheet metal. Once the Field cover is on the sheet metal, let it sit overnight. It will be “stuck like chuck” by the next day! Special NOTE: If you choose to not use the soap and water and just put the sticky side down on the sheet metal thinking “this man is crazy, there’s no way this field cover is going to stick after putting soap and water on it!” Well then go ahead and recreate the wheel Captain Caveman…more than likely you will get a wrinkle in the field cover and you will hate it for all time and eternity and no one will like playing on your field. Trust me about the soap and water…it works!

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Step 10: Trim the Field Cover More than likely you are going to have some of the field cover hanging over the sheet metal on the edges. Get your X-acto knife and carefully trim away the excess from the sheet metal. Once the field cover has been trimmed, set it aside in a safe place.

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Building Segment 2:

The Frame

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Step 1: Gather Your Materials For this building segment you will need the following materials (not all items are pictured): a. Three 8’ pieces of 11/16” x 3 ½” MDF

board (outer frame) b. Three 8’ pieces of 11/16”x 1 ½ MDF board

(inner frame) c. Drill d. Saw e. Phillips Screw Driver or bit f. 13/64” Drill Bit g. #10 x 2 ½” Wood Screws h. #12 Countersink i. C Clamps j. #6 1 ¼” Sheet rock screws k. Tape Measure and ruler l. X-acto knife m. Sharpie n. Square o. Good flat & clean building surface p. Patience

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Outer Frame Dimensions

35 ¼ “

66 ¾ “

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Inner Frame Dimensions

35 ¼ “

66 ¾ “

32 ½ “

66 5/8 “

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Cross Brace Dimensions

35 ¼ “

66 ¾ “

32 ½ “

66 5/8 “

7“ 12“

33 7/8“

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Warrior TOC Board Total Frame Dimensions

35 ¼ “

66 ¾ “

32 ½ “

66 5/8 “

7“ 12“

33 7/8“ 24“

Side View

Top View

3 ¾ “

1 “

1 ¼ “

¾ “ 1 ½ “

28“

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Step 1: Cutting the Outer Frame Cut two of your 11/16”x 3 ½ “ MDF Boards to 66 ¾”. Then take your remaining 11/16”x 3 ½ “ MDF Board and cut it into two pieces measuring 35 ¼” each. (See notes on next page prior to cutting)

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Step 1 (continued): Cutting the Outer Frame Make sure you cut on the correct side of your Measurement. After you cut your boards you should then have four pieces of board for your frame that you will assemble in the remaining steps of this segment.

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Now Clean your work area Get rid of all your saw dust

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Step 2: Mark and Drill Holes With your 35 ¼” boards laid out you are going to mark a total of 8 places to drill on outer ¾” edge of each board. Make sure your marks are centered within that ¾” edge. (read ahead if you’re not sure why we’re doing this, it should all become clear)

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Step 3: Countersink each hole Using your #12 Countersink, drill out each hole to allow the screw head to seat flush with the board. This will allow your covering to set flat and not show your screw holes. Once each countersink has been done take an X-acto knife and trim the MDF board. See next page for final results.

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Step 3: Countersink each hole (continued) You should now have a total of eight holes on the end of each 35 ¼” outer frame board and each hole should be countersunk by now as well. The ends of your boards should look like this photo.

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Step 4: Test fit one corner end of your frame Take a long 66 ¾” outer frame board and a short 35 ¼” outer frame board and get ready to assemble them. Lay each piece up against one another and make sure that the corners will become square and that there are no warps in each board. Minor imperfections are OK as the board will become straight after we put the screws in.

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Step 5: Mark the pilot hole location With the corner lined up, you’re going to very carefully make a mark on the end of each long board by putting your 13/64” drill bit into the holes of the short board and slowly turning on your drill. All you want to do here is make a mark of where your screw hole will line up with the pilot hole.

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Step 6: Drill Pilot Holes in long board The objective of this step is to drill two 13/64” pilot holes in the long board to keep the wood from splitting when you put the screw in. Make sure your drill bit is set deep enough to allow for the entire screw in the hole, consider the width of the short board in your measurement. Remove short board and carefully drill each hole level and straight.

It should now look like this 30

Step 7: Screw Corner Together Using your square and two #10 2 ½” screws carefully and slowly screw the corner of the gameboard together.

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Step 8: Screw Next Corner Together Repeat steps 4-7 of this segment for the next corner of the short board. When that is complete you should have ½ of your outer frame together.

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Step 9: Screw Remaining Two Corners Together Repeat steps 4-7 again of this segment for the remaining two corners of your outer frame. Once complete your outer frame will be complete.

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Step 10: Mark Inner Frame Location In these next few steps you will cut and assemble the inner frame that the sheet metal will rest on. First, on inner facing sides of your outer frame measure 1 ¼” down from the top of your outer frame. (read ahead if you’re not sure what or why we’re doing this, it will all become clear).

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Step 11: Cut Four Inner Frame Pieces Using the three 8’ pieces of 11/16”x 1 ½ MDF board (inner frame) you will make the following cuts: Two 66 5/8” long inner frame pieces Two 32 1/2” short inner frame pieces

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Step 12: Place one long inner frame piece in Place a long inner frame piece into the outer frame and make sure it is set to your 1 ¼” depth marks that you made in step 10 of this segment. I made several marks in step 10 to make sure this piece lays in straight at the 1 ¼” depth mark.

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Step 13: Mount Inner Frame Long Piece Equally space five #6 1 ¼” sheet rock screws on the inner frame. Now screw them into the inner and outer frames.

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Step 14: Repeat Steps 12 – 13 for Each Side Now repeat steps 12-13 for the other side of the long inner frame and for the two short inner frame pieces. Note, since I had accomplished this piece with the frame in a vertical position it was necessary for me to use a “C” clamp when assembling the short inner frame pieces. Also, you will only need three sheet rock screws for each side of the short inner frame pieces.

Inner Frame Assembly Completed

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Step 15: Cut Bottom Frame Cross Assembly Using the ¾” x 12” x 72” Melamine board Take your circular saw and cut two 33 7/8” pieces from the board. With your frame upside down, place the bottom boards you just cut into the frame.

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Step 16: Mark, Drill and Screw the Cross Frame You will need your drill, phillips screw driver, eight #10 x 2 ½” wood scres, #12 Countersink, 13/64” drill bit and your sharpie for these next steps. First mark where you will drill your holes for the cross piece. You want two #10 wood screws in each of the four areas we will assemble.

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Step 16 (continued): Clamp I use a 48” furniture clamp to keep the sides together while I’m drilling these holes. It helps keep the frame together nice and tight. You can also use a buddy. I set each cross piece in approximately 7 inches in from the end of each side of the field.

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Step 17: Drill and Countersink Each Hole Using the 13/64” drill bit, drill out all eight of the holes you marked, then countersink each one. I temporarily removed the clamps so you could see what I’m doing in these photos. You will want to leave your clamps on while you do this.

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Step 18: Screw In Each Hole Taking your eight #10 x 2 ½” wood screws, carefully screw them into each hole you just countersunk. I temporarily removed the clamps so you could see what I’m doing in these photos. You will want to leave your clamps on while you do this.

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Step 19: Spackle….LOTS of spackle! Get your spackle and spackle each screw on the outer frame. There are 16 #10 x 2 ½” screws on the outer frame. Spackle them all! Then let it dry.

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Step 19: Spackle Continued Don’t forget to spackle the corners where the wood comes together. It will help the decal lay flat on the frame. Then let it dry.

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Step 20: Sand the spackle Once the spackle is dry sand it with a 120 and then 220 grit sand paper until it is smooth.

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Step 21: Install the Motor Mount Brackets Using two pieces of scrap inner frame board, you should have two scrap pieces approximately 24 inches long as pictured in the top right photo on this page. You are going to mount these to the cross support using sheet rock screws as pictured here. Repeat this step for the other side. Refer to the motor installation segment if you’re confused about what we’re doing.

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2 3

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Step 22: Install the Feet Using threaded felt feet pads, we are now going to install the feet pads that will keep the motor mount and adjustment knob to the motor off of the table we set the gameboard on. First make two marks on the cross frame. You want these marks to be centered and two feet apart.

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Step 23: Drill hole for the Feet Mount Once your four marks are on the cross brace drill them out. The package I’m using specified an 11/32” drill bit. 1

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Step 24: Install threaded insert First put the threaded insert in the hole you just drilled. Then use lock tite to lock the foot in place once it is screwed into the threaded insert. 1

2 3 52

Step 25: Install Feet Carefully install the foot pad into the hole. I use a piece of scrap wood to make sure the depth is consistent in each hole. Repeat for all four holes

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Step 26: Frame Complete Your frame should now sit level on your work area when placed right side up. Note: You haven’t installed the field levelers or motors at this point so don’t freak out from this picture. It’s just to show you the frame sitting level on a level surface.

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Building Segment 3:

The Motors

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Step 1: Gather Your Materials For this building segment you will need the following materials: a. Drill b. Drill bits c. 5/16”x1 ½”Fender washers (2 packs of 6) d. Two low profile new work 1 gang electrical

boxes. e. Two Buzzball motors f. X-acto knife g. Sharpee h. Phillips screw driver (med and small) i. Dykes

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Step 2: Prepare the boxes Using a Phillips screw driver, bend the flap where your wire will exit each electrical box. Refer to the wiring diagram and plan ahead on how you want these wires to exit the box

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Step 3: Drill holes in boxes Using a 1/8” drill bit drill a small pilot hole at the center of each box. (pic 1) Once the pilot hole is drilled, take a ½” drill bit and drill out a ½” hole in the pilot hole. (pic 2 & 3) 1

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Step 4: Clean up the hole on the box Using an X-acto knife, remove the excess plastic shavings from each hole on the inside and outside of the boxes.

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Step 5: Clip the Cord Using a pair of dykes, clip the electrical cord off of each Buzzball motor.

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Step 6: Prepare the Motors Prepare the motors by removing the adjustment knob & retention spring (pic 1 & 2). Tighten the screw on the adjustment knob or it will fly off when under pressure…you don’t want this to happen; it sucks. (pic 3) 1

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Step 7: Get your washers Open your washers. You will use 6 washers on each motor. Five washers will go against the spring and one washer will go against the adjustment knob.

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Step 8: Mount the Washers to the Motor Put the spring back on the motor, then take 5 washers and stack them and push them against the spring. Hold the tension with your fingers or else. This part can hurt if you’re not quick enough so if you have sensitive fingers use gloves or get someone with tough strong hands. Now hurry and go to the next step!

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Step 9: Mount the Motor to the box While keeping the washers compressed against the spring, push the motor screw stem through the hole in the box (pic 1) Place a washer on the outside of the box (pic 2) Screw the adjustment knob to the screw stem. (pic 3)

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Step 10: Mark the box With a sharpie, mark the box up and down. Up will be when the motor moves toward the sheet metal when the motor is mounted to the gameboard and down will pull the motor away from the sheet metal. This will come in handy when you tune your board in Building Segment 7.

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Step 11: Inspect Your Work Your motors should now look like these examples.

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Step 12: Prepare to Mount Your Motors Mark the center of your gameboard. You will slightly offset each motor once you mount it to the board. (pic 1) With the frame upside down on your table, you want to mount each box by screwing in the box to the frame making sure that the box extends about a ¼” above the bottom cross brace. (pic 2)

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Step 12: Continued More pics of the motors mounted to the frame.

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Building Segment 4:

Wiring

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Step 1: WIRING WARNING!!! WARNING: This segment is not to be taken lightly or fool heartedly! If you’re not an electrician or if you’re not that good with figuring this segment out, hire an electrician or a buddy who knows what to do or else there is grave danger that you could kill yourself, burn down your house, ruin your game board or all three. Don’t be stupid if you don’t know EXACTLY how to do this step. There’s no shame in getting expert help for this segment. Be safe!! I assume no liability for any do-it-yourself electrical work in this segment. You’re on your own! This is just a guide! 71

Step 2: Wiring Materials You will need the following items (not all items are pictured): Knowledge of basic wiring skills Know how to read a schematic One 15 foot extension cord One 6 foot extension cord One junction box One switch One bag of 3/8” Clamp Connectors One bag of wire ties Two hook hangers

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Step 3: The Wiring Schematic Here’s what we’re going to achieve (if you do it correctly):

Switch

Plug to Wall

Positive Wire

Negative or Neutral Wire

Wire Connector

Junction Box

Motor #1 Motor #2

Wiring Key

15 Foot Extension Cord

6 Foot Extension Cord

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Warrior TOC Motor and Wiring Layout

Side View

Top View

Center Line

Motor #1

Motor #2

Junction Box

REFERENCE SCHEMATIC FOR SPECIFIC WIRING REQUIREMENTS

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Step 4: Install Junction Box 1. Get your junction box 2. Install two 3/8” Clamp Connectors 3. Mount to rear of table as shown using two sheet rock screws

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2 3 75

Step 5: Motor Wires Run your motor wires to the junction box. Note: I also mounted the wires to the frame for a neater installation. This will also keep your wires from getting damaged.

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Step 6: The Switch Using your 15’ extension cord and your switch, mount one end of the extension cord to the switch. You may need to widen the hole in the switch for the cord to fit. Look at your schematic!!

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Step 7: Run your Switch and Plug wires Run your switch and plug wires to the junction box.

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Step 8: Connect your wires Using wire ties correctly tie to the wires to one another in accordance with the wiring schematic! PAY CAREFUL ATTENTION TO WHAT YOU’RE DOING!!

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Step 8: Junction Box Completion Close the junction box and tighten screws on the 3/8” wire clamps that are mounted to the junction box to keep the wires from getting pulled out.

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Step 9: Install Hooks for Wire Mount Using the two hooks, install near the junction box and wrap your cords up during long storage periods.

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Building Segment 5:

Frame Finishing

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Step 1: Cut Top Frame Beam Using three pieces of ¼” x ¾ “ x 8’ PVC Screen Molding, cut each corner to fit at a 45 degree angle. This will be placed on top of the frame. Carefully measure the distance to each corner, read ahead if you’re not sure what we’re doing in this segment.

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Step 1: (continued) Cut Top Frame Beam Using three pieces of ¼” x ¾ “ x 8’ PVC Screen Molding, cut each corner to fit at a 45 degree angle. This will be placed on top of the frame. Carefully measure the distance to each corner, read ahead if you’re not sure what we’re doing in this segment.

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Step 2: Super Glue the top beam in on each top side of the frame. Using super glue, spread the glue on the top of the frame (you will run this bead of glue along all four sides, one side at a time) and carefully put the top beam in place.

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Step 3: Top Beam Complete Your top beam should now look like this when complete.

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Step 3: Top Beam Complete (continued) Your top beam should now look like this when complete.

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Step 4: Field Leveler installation Using 1x4x6 piece of pine wood, cut into two pieces measuring 33 7/8” long. Place approximately 4 inches from the motors

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Step 5: Field Leveler installation Carefully drill a pilot hole into the pine and then screw two sheet rock screws into each end. Repeat for all four sides.

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Step 6: Field Leveler installation Make four equal marks on each pine field level board that you just installed.

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Step 7: Field Leveler installation Using a 13/64” drill bit carefully drill out each mark.

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Step 7: Field Leveler installation (continued) Using a a 1/4x20 tap carefully drill out each mark and slowly tap it.

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Step 8: Field Leveler installation Carefully screw in all eight of the ¼ x 20 x 2 1/2 machine screws

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Step 9: Field Leveler installation All eight of the machine screws should now be installed.

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Step 10: Field Leveler installation Carefully put your frame on its side and using a board make sure that all of the screws are flush with the aligning board.

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Step 10: Field Leveler installation (continued) All eight screws should now be an equal heighth and ready for the sheet metal to sit level in the frame. This will also prevent warping when you pass and lean on the table.

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Step 11: Field Leveler installation Your field should now look like this photo.

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Building Segment 6:

Frame Stickers

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Step 1: Field Sticker Installation This step is purely optional and shown here for cosmetic purposes. You don’t have to use the stickers. You can leave it blank or paint it however you see fit. I used stickers from Lynn Schmidt. He can sell these to you in a kit form if you ask for the Jerry McGhee Warrior TOC Miniature Football stickers and bricks. You do not need to use soap and water for this segment like we did in segment 1.

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Step 2: Install the Bricks on the long side We will now install the brick patter above the inner frame. For the long sides of the game board I do this one half at a time to make sure it lines up correctly. First test fit a strip to make sure it looks good. Then remove one half of the backing; do not cut the bricks and press in place!

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2 3

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Step 2: Install the Bricks on the long side (Continuation) now do the other half and then the other long side repeating steps 1 and 2

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Step 3: Install the Bricks on the long side Trim the corners with an X-acto knife.

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Step 4: Install the Bricks on the Short sides Now install the bricks on the short sides. You can do this all at once without cutting half of the brick adhesive. Remove the adhesive protector and carefully press in place top to bottom.

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Step 5: Install the Outer Stickers Now install the outer stickers. For the long sides we will use the same technique as the bricks installing one half at a time for the long runs. Repeat this step until all outer stickers are applied. Take your time!!

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Step 6: Trim the bottom of the outer stickers With an X-acto knife, carefully trim the bottom of the stickers away so there is nothing hanging under the frame. Repeat on all 4 sides.

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Step 7: Viola! Your game board should now look like this!

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Building Segment 7:

Tuning the Motors

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Step 1: Lift your Game Board If your game board is not running to the desired speed you choose you will need to tune the motors. To tune your game board you will need to lift one half of your board to get to the adjustment knobs. I used a scrap piece of wood to keep it up.

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Step 2: Tune the Motors Once lifted, turn the board on and carefully adjust each motor until it runs the speed you want. You want an equal amount of vibration from each motor. You can do it by sound or watching your men run on the board after each tuning. A good scale standard for tuning your board is if a figure can run the entire 100 yards in 8 – 9 seconds!

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Building Segment 8:

Field Accessories

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Step 1: Down Markers You can either buy or make your own down markers. Carl Coley IV made these chains for me.

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Step 2: Field Dress Kit You can either buy or make your own down Field dress kit. I bought these from Chris Stacey in 2007.

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Step 3: Side Line Magnetic Felt Go to Michaels or Hobby Lobby and get a thin piece of magnet that is self adhesive or you can glue it. Take a piece of felt and cut to fit with your side lines. You can remove this to clean it or change out your field.

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Step 4: Field Goal Post I made this from wood at Home Depot. Mark the sidelines so when you stand it up you will know where to align the goal post. Remove when not kicking.

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Step 4: Field Goal Post (Continued) I made this field goal post in accordance with the MFCA TOC rules. Your league may vary.

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Step 5: Be Happy and Enjoy Your Game Board! Just like Frank B here from Venice Beach, Florida!!

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how to build a warrior tournament of champions scale

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