How sustainable chemistry is shaping the future of textile ...How sustainable chemistry is shaping the future of textile manufacturing The ZDHC Roadmap to Zero Programme Dr. Christina
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How sustainable chemistry is shaping the future of textile manufacturing The ZDHC Roadmap to Zero Programme Dr. Christina Raab Mumbai 14 March 2018
How sustainable chemistryis shaping the future of textile manufacturing
The ZDHC Roadmap to Zero Programme
Dr. Christina RaabMumbai
14 March 2018
Presenter
Presentation Notes
Sustainability through innovation Environmentally friendly approaches
Some challenges are too big to be faced alone
Transforming an industry requires
- Collaboration- Transparency- Commitment
Image: Greenpeace
Presenter
Presentation Notes
Common Ground: Change and improvements are needed in the textile and footwear value chains We took our conceptional beginnings from the Greenpeace Detox Campaign GP Detox Catwalk – Pictures of Textile Manufacturing polluting rivers, lakes and the ocean. People desperately trying to protect their living environments. GP connected the dots to High-Street Fashion brands and outlined their responsibilities for this process. Those brands accepted their responsibilities and realized – transforming a global industry is nothing that can be achieved by a single brand nor something that can be done behind closed doors. Collaboration and Transparency were the key-words when the first six brands sat together to discuss a collaborative programme - ZDHC was born! Long, complex value chain – many steps and layers. Implementation of standards and tools needed up and down the value chain. Individual brand RSLs/MRSLs. Duplication of standards Supplier confusion inhibiting consistent approach on implementation Lack of guidance on how to measure performance and progress. No “common language” / way of sharing information and data.
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Brands, retailers and their agents
Garment makers, dye-houses,
tanneries
Chemical manufacturers
Laboratories, certifiers, technology providers
Academia, NGOs
Governments, policy makers
Extended collaboration forvalue-adding adoption and lasting improvements
Presenter
Presentation Notes
PRA 3: Adoption and Industry Convergence around ZDHC Tools �Primary Goal: The majority of the textile, apparel and footwear industries, and their value chains, endorse and use ZDHC's MRSL and sustainable chemistry framework. Supporting Goal 1: Endorse: Significant increase in the number of brands, retailers, and value chain companies actively supporting the ZDHC Programme as their primary approach to sustainable chemistry, input, process, and output control, and related environmental performance. Supporting Goal 2: Use: Active contributors and external users have a clear entry point and pathway to implementation of the ZDHC Programme, resulting in continuous measurable advances in sustainable chemical management and reductions in environmental impact. (Shared with PRA 1)
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Signatory Brands - Open to brands and retailers
Value Chain Affiliates - Open to the textile/footwear industries and related chemical industry and other solution providers
Associates – Open to industry associations, NGOs and institutional partners such as government, institutions or academia
Presenter
Presentation Notes
85 Contributors Industry lead collaboration Leading worldwide OUR VISION is widespread implementation of sustainable chemistry, driving innovations and best practices in the textile, apparel, leather and footwear industries to protect consumers, workers and the environment.
- Collaborative engagement
- Standard Setting- Implementation- Innovation
Through
we will advance towards zero discharge of
hazardous chemicals.
Taking a pragmatic approach to an industry challenge:Balancing aspirational goals & manufacturing reality
NGO/civic society: Maximum targets in minimum timeframe Our approach is challenging yet achievable and results in a pragmatic methodology and timeline
INPUT PROCESS OUTPUT
A holistic approachto Sustainable Chemical Management
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ZDHC MRSL Version 1.1
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A holistic approachINPUT management
ZDHC MRSL Conformance
Guidance
ZDHC Gateway -Chemical Module
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Presentation Notes
What is the ZDHC MRSL? List of chemical substances banned from intentional use in facility Establishes concentrations limits Coverage: textile, synthetic leather, leather ZDHC MRSL is aspirational, but achievable to adopt Alternatives already available for the ZDHC MRSL compounds What is the ZDHC MRSL Conformance Guidance? Gives chemical suppliers a system to assess the extent to which a chemical formulation conforms to the ZDHC MRSL. Uses existing third-party certification systems to give an indication of conformance. Describes the criteria that third-party certification systems and testing laboratories must meet in order to be accepted by ZDHC as an indicator of MRSL conformance. THE world’s database of safer chemistry for the leather, textile, apparel and footwear industry No own ZDHC certification system but leveraging existing certification bodies as indicators of ZDHC MRSL conformance. ZDHC Gateway - Chemical Module: 7823 registered chemical products; 373 formulator accounts
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A holistic approachPROCESS management
”How to ZDHC”Chemical Management
System Guidance
Harmonisation with relevant parts of assessment /
audit schemes
Leather WorkingGroup
The ZDHC Leader Programme
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Ensuring one consistent set of chemical management assessment protocols at facility level Harmonising the ZDHC Audit Tool with relevant parts of the SAC Higg Facilities Environment Module (FEM3.0) Linking to the amfori / BEPI assessment schemes Informing the Chemical Management Module of the Leather Working Group (LWG) Environmental Stewardship Protocol Alignment with other relevant protocols and due diligence frameworks for textile and leather supply chains, e.g. OECD
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A holistic approachOUTPUT management
Wastewater standards
literature review
Wastewater Guidelines
ZDHC Gateway –Wastewater Module
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ZDHC Gateway - Wastewater Module: 388 test reports; 67 ZDHC Accepted Laboratories Industry alignment for a single, unified set of expectations for wastewater discharge quality Beyond current regulatory compliance Ensure that wastewater discharges do not adversely affect environment and communities Two sets of parameters: Conventional Parameters: Limit values are classified into three levels: Foundational, Progressive, Aspirational ZDHC MRSL Parameters (Priority Hazardous Chemicals: includes those priority hazardous chemicals defined in the ZDHC MRSL A global online platform to register and share verified Wastewater test data against the ZDHC Wastewater Guidelines
Staying competitive & growing sustainably
in a proactive and collaborative way
• Access to (global) markets• Leading on environmental
protection• Sustainability through
innovation
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Presentation Notes
Purchasing requirements “We should manufacture goods with zero effect that they should not have a negative impact on the environment.” Innovation in chemistry with process and technological innovations
