houaphanh province
TRANSCRIPT
HINTANG ARCHAEOLOGICAL PARKTravel south of Xam Neua past the turn off to Houameuang District center to Ban Phao and take a 6 kilometer dirt road to San Kong Phan, Hintang’s most visited group, and observe scores of Bronze Age “Standing Stones” marking ancient burial chambers more than 1,500 years old. Menhirs – long, narrow blades of cut schist placed upright in groupings, with the tallest in the middle – are interspersed among burial chambers drilled deep in the bedrock, with access through chimneys via ladders, and covered with massive stone disks. The origin of these ancient remains are unknown, but a few artifacts from a 1931 expedition uncovered ceramic urns and crude bronze bracelets. The Legend of Hintang According to local lore, Ba Hat, the ruler at the time, had amazing powers and magical tools including an iron axe that could cut rock as easily as wood and water spurted wherever he hit the ground with his iron staff. Ban Hat and his people used these tools to start building a stone city on a ridge. However, the Luang Prabang King, felt threatened, as Hintang would be bigger, so he sent a spy to infiltrate the growing city. He earned Ba Hat’s confidence through hard work, and Ba Hat gave the spy his sister’s hand in marriage. The deceiver then convinced Ba Hat to build a tower from which, he claimed, people could see Luang Prabang. Many ascended the tower, including Ba Hat’s sister, and the spy then burned it down, killing all the climbers. Ba Hat took his magic tools and moved to build a new city in Pha Te. Upon arriving, he sat on a stone, and struck it with his staff. This opened a rift into which Ba Hat fell. Others dove in after him and also died, except the last women jumper who survived. She clambered from the hole, walked to Luang Prabang and told the story to the French, who recorded it. Hintang Walking TrailAfter visiting San Kong Phan, complete your tour of the Standing Stones with a two-hour trek that will take you along a ridge dotted with many more sites, including the largest known: Keohintang. Return about 2 km back towards the main road and keep your eyes open for a small sign marking the start of the trail, located just after the only left turn on this road. Start the trek by climbing up a steep slope to reach the mountain ridge along which the trail meanders. The trail reaches the main road at Ban Tao Hin. You can also take this trek in reverse, starting from the main road and finishing your visit to Hintang at San Kong Phan.
Ban Phao
Ban Pa Cha
Ban Phongkhang
Ban Tao Hin
Ban Panang
Sign for Hintang Archaeological Park
Sign for Hintang Trail
Visitor’s Centre
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San Kong Phan
Keohintang
Large Stone Site
Medium Stone Site
Small Stone Site
War Camp 1960-64
Village
Wartime airstrip
To Luang Prabang & Xieng Khouang
To Xam Neua
VIENGXAY CAVES AUDIO TOUREmbark on an audio tour of Viengxay’s “Hidden Cave City”, home to Laos’ liberation movement.1. Sabaidee - Start your audio tour in the garden atmosphere of the Viengxay Cave Office. 2. Kaysone Phomvihane’s House - While standing in President Kaysone’s peaceful garden, listen to the cave’s early residents tell how Viengxay became the center for liberation and describe early air attacks.3. Kaysone Phomvihane’s Cave Office - In the complex’s largest cave, view foreign gifts such as a statue of Lenin and collection of books, while learning about Kaysone Phomvihane’s vision for Laos.4. Politburo Meeting Room - In the cave where the leaders debated policies and major decisions, you’ll see the table where the politburo set policy, while hearing how they created solidarity among the people.5. Nouhak Phoumsavan’s House - When peace came, leaders built homes in the pastoral setting in front of their caves. Villagers discuss the area around the house of Nouhak Phoumsavan, one of Pathet Lao’s founding fathers.6. Nouhak Phoumsavan’s Cave - Finding and cooking food was risky during bombardments, with smoke revealing the Lao people’s position. Still, villagers reminisce about how food was grown, cooked and distributed. 7. Prince Souphanouvong’s House & Garden - Listen to the revolutionary “Red Prince’s” bodyguard tell of his charge’s love of planting trees, flowers, grapefruit, and bougainvillea in his garden, and his morning exercise regime
8. Stupa - Unable to cremate the dead because the smoke could attract enemy attention, Prince Souphanouvong created a burial site for his son, Ariya Thammasin, and others as explained by villagers and family members.9. Prince Souphanouvong’s Cave - Listen to locals describe the intense bombardment unleashed by Air America’s “Ravens”, and how locals learned to distinguish among spotter, bomber and fighter planes. 10. Phoumi Vongvichid’s Cave - Education played a prominent role during the war years, and survivors recall the respected politician and historian Phoumi Vongvichid’s curriculum and school system. 11. Sithone Kommadam’s Cave - The wife and friends of Sithone Kommadam, a key figure in the Pathet Lao and known as a fierce warrior, tells of the hardships he suffered during the early years of the war.12. Small Hospital Cave - Doctors, nurses and
residents explain what medical care in the caves entailed during the war. The cave, staffed by Lao, Vietnamese, and Cubans was called the Friendship Hospital.13. Khamtay Siphandone’s House - Khamtay Siphandone was the Commander in Chief of the Lao People’s Liberation Army and a member of the Politburo, and you’ll hear how he motivated young students to move to the caves.14. Khamtay Siphandone’s Cave - Locals describe the importance of military communications, which were based in this cave network, and overseen by supreme military commander, General Khamtay Siphandone. 15. Soldiers’ Cave Barracks - Ex-soldiers tell of life in this large cave barracks, which included preparing for battle, teaching farming, protecting the village, and entertaining the troops.16. Artillery Cave - Residents paint a picture of the well-positioned Artillery Cave, where the Lao revolutionary troops manned heavy anti-aircraft artillery and scanned the skies for enemy planes.17. Xanglot Cave - Even soldiers need entertainment and to observe special occasions like weddings and traditional festivals. Locals describe how they celebrated during wartime, though on a lesser scale.18. Victory - Wind up the audio tour hearing how the Lao people jubilated as they claimed victory when a ceasefire was signed between the Royal Lao Government and the Pathet Lao. Book your tour at the Viengxay Caves Visitor Center
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10 11
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18
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16
Politburo Meeting Room
Sabaidee
Stupa
Viengxay Caves Visitor Center
Market Caves
District Administration O�ceVictory (Returning toCave O�ce)
Monument
Police
Bus stationand market
Kaysone Phomvihane’s House
Prince Souphanouvong’sCave
Phoumi Vongvichid’sCave
Sithon Kommadan’sCave
Small HospitalCave
Xanglot CaveKamtay Siphandone’s
House
Kamtay Siphandone’sCave
Soldiers’ CaveBarracks
Artillery Cave
Ban Phouxai
Prince Souphanouvong’sHouse and Garden
Nouhak Phoumsavanh’sHouse
Nouhak Phoumsavanh’sCave
Kaysone Phomvihane’sCave O�ce
Hospital
Bus stop (unmarked) for buses between Xam Neua and Nam Soi & Thanh Hoa, Vietnam
Ban Longkou
Ban Hinpen
To Xam Neua
To Xam Tai and Vietnam
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XAM NEUA TOWN WALKING TOUR
Weaving Houses
Vat Phoxaysanalam
Lao Independence Monument
Stupa
Stupa
Bank
BankBankStadium
Internet
To Hospital
To Luang PrabangXieng Khouang
Inter-provincial andInternational bus station
To Viengxay,Vietnam,
Intra-provincial bus stationand Airport
InternetTuk-tuk Station
Culture Hall
Motorcycle Rental
Tourist Information Center
SouankeolakmeuangMonument
Provincial AdministrationO�ce
ChineseMarket
Market
FreshMarket
Riverside Walkway
Steel Footbridge
Vietnamese WarMemorial Nam
Xam
Nam Hang
Pathi Road
Start of the Xam Neua Bike Trail
Stroll through Xam Neua Town and discover pleasant slices of life. This walking tour stops at religious sites, national monuments, weaving houses, and a market, and includes a pleasant saunter along the Nam Xam River Promenade. The tour can also be taken in reverse. Vat PhoxaysanalamAt the northern end of town on Phati Road, Xam Neua’s most sacred temple houses a Buddha statue dating from 1565 and weighing 3,850 kg. Stupas and monks houses (kuti) also sit on the grounds. Weaving HousesClustered across from Vat Phoxaysanalam, a number of houses weave high-quality cotton and silk textiles, many of which are exported to Asian markets such as Singapore and Japan.Independence MonumentIn the north of town, have a look at the Independence Monument built on a hilltop in the town’s northwest in 1978, a testimonial to Laos’ liberation.StupasOn Phati Road about 400 meters from the town center, a pair of historic stupas withstood US bombings, while the temple they stand next to was destroyed.Nam Xam River PromenadeStart at the steel suspension bridge and wander along the path south along the Nam Xam River and continue on the river road, where you’ll see vendors selling clothes, fresh food and other goods. Picture-takers can pause on bridges for great village shots.
Xam Neua MarketThe largest of the town’s markets occupies an area
on the east side of the Nam Xam River, and sells a range of products including silk textiles and
ethnic minority clothing as well as vegetables, meat and other food products.
Souankeolakmeuang MonumentInaugurated in 2007, the four-pronged
city pillar topped with a round representative “gemstone” sits inside
the intersection at the entrance to town. Its interesting, modern
art design gives visitors good reason to pause and inspect
the city landmark.
EXCURSIONS AROUND VIENGXAYViengxay History, Culture and Nature Discovery TrailEmbark on a one-day guided walking tour that shows the extensive development of the Pathet Lao revolutionary headquarters. Highlights include caves for Kaysone Phomvihane, the Chinese and Vietnamese Embassies, as well as the 200-year-old Napha Village. You’ll also see a massive bomb crater, one of thousands scarring the landscape.Book your tour at the Viengxay Caves Visitor CenterViengxay Bike LoopHop on a bicycle or motorbike tour and head off on a scenic dirt road starting at Prince Souphanouvong’s cave. You’ll stop at several interesting ethnic villages before arriving at the tour’s highlight…The Hospital Cave. Make your way back to Viengxay on the main road coming from the Vietnamese border.Bicycles can be rented at the Viengxay Caves Visitor Center
VIENGXAY TOWN
Ban Nyot Ang Group 1
Ban Nyot Ang Group 2 (Koum 7)
Ban Phouxai
Ban Longkou
Ban Hinpen
Prince Souphanouvong Cave
Secret Police CaveVietnamese Embassy Cave Neutralist Caves
Tiger CaveFa Soup Cave
Mr Kaysone Phomvihane's Cave
Chinese EmbassyCave
Ban Xiengxue
Ban Houaypoung
Ban Nameuang
Ban Napha
Ban Navit
Viengxay History, Culture andNature Discovery Trail
Viengxay Biking Loop
Ban Naluang
Lao Cuba Friendship Hospital Cave
To Xam Neua
To Xam Tai and Vietnam
iViengxay Caves Visitor Center
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Getting To & AroundGetting to Xam Neua and ViengxayHouaphanh Province is located in northeastern Laos and can be reached from Vientiane by plane and by bus or private vehicle from Xieng Khouang/Phonsavanh, Luang Prabang and Vietnam.
Bus: Daily from Vientiane (18-22 hours), Phonsavanh (8 hours) and Luang Prabang (15 hours) to Xam Neua’s Interprovincial and International Bus Station. Hourly to Viengxay and daily to the Vietnam border (Nam Soi) from Xam Neua’s’s Intraprovincial Bus Station, as well as from Viengxay. Daily from Xam Neua’s Interprovincial and International Bus Station to Thanh Hoa, Vietnam. You can also catch this bus from Viengxay.
Minibus hire: Xam Neua, Phonsavanh, Luang Prabang.
Air: Regular flight service between Vientiane and Xam Neua. For current details please contact:Lao Air, Tel: 021 512027, www.lao-air.com. Daily flight between Vientiane and Phonsavanh (Xieng Khouang). Lao Airlines, Call Center: 021 254096, www.laoairlines.com.
Getting To and From VietnamVisas: The Nam Soi (Laos) – Na Meo (Vietnam) border is open everyday from 07.00 – 11.30 and 13.30 – 17.00. Travelers to Vietnam require a visa in advance, while most nationalities arriving to Laos can obtain a visa on arrival. Vietnam does not provide a visa on arrival. A Vietnam visa must be obtained in advance.
Transport from Nam Soi: Song taews (covered pickup trucks with benches) depart Nam Soi for Xam Neua between 10.00 – 11.30 for 21,000 Lao kip (LAK). If you arrive late at Nam Soi from Vietnam and miss the song taew, the Lao Immigration Office can assist in finding a song taew or motorcycle taxi to Viengxay (USD30/USD10) or Xam Neua (USD40/US15).
Accommodation in Nam Soi: For those unable to secure transportation, the Lao Immigration Office will assist you in finding a family home stay for about LAK10,000.
Transportation to Vietnam: Song taews depart Xam Neua’s Intraprovincial Bus Station at 07.10 and arrive in Nam Soi between 09.30 – 11.00. The daily service costs LAK21,000. Busses leave Na Meo for Thanh Hoa, Vietnam between 11.30 – 12.30 and arrive at around 19.00 for USD8.00 per person. Car rentals and minibuses are available from Na Meo to Quan Son, Thanh Hoa, and Hanoi for between USD42 – US240 depending on the destination and vehicle. Motorcycle taxis to Quan Son cost USD10. All fees require US dollars. A daily direct bus service from Xam Neua to Thanh Hoa leaves Xam Neua’s Interprovincial and International Bus Station for LAK180,000. You can also catch this bus from Viengxay.
* Please note that the Houaphanh Provincial Tourism Department makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of this information. Prices are subject to change.
Houaphanh Province Birthplace of Lao PDR
VIENTIANE
PHONSAVANH
XAM NEUA VIENGXAY
XAYABOURY
HOUAPHANH
SAVANNAKHET
PAKSE
LUANG PRABANG
OUDOMXAY
Tourist Information
Xam Neua
The Provincial Tourism Department, located on Pathi Road in the center of Xam Neua, operates a Tourism Information Centre and can advise on transportation options and available tours. They are open from Monday to Friday, 08.30-12.00 and 13.00-16.00. Tel: 064-312567, email: [email protected].
Viengxay
The Viengxay Caves Visitor Centre is open daily from 08.00-12.00 and 13.00-16.00. Tel: 064 314321, email: [email protected], website: www.visit-viengxay.com. A guided Audio Tour of the caves, a one-day trek including caves, culture and nature and bicycle rental services are available.
Viengthong
The Nam Et-Phou Louey Visitor Center, located in Viengthong Town between the main road and the hot springs, is open from Monday to Friday, 08.00-11.30 and 13.30-16.30. Tel: 064-810008, email: [email protected], website: www.namet.org. Bookings can be made here for the Nam Et River Trip into the National Protected Area.
www.tourismlaos.orgwww.ecotourismlaos.com
Text by: Bernie RosenbloomPhotos by: Houaphanh Provincial Tourism Department, WCS, SNV Netherlands Development Organisation, Laurence Thouvenin and Rik PonneDesign by: Laurence Thouvenin and X-Eye Design
GMS Sustainable Tourism Development Project
Tourist Map
VIENGXAY TO VIETNAM
Dotted with interesting attractions well-worth a stop, take time meandering through the mountain scenery during a 50-km drive on Route 6 along scenic rivers from Viengxay through Viengxay District to Vietnam’s Na Meo border checkpoint.Lao Cuba Friendship Hospital Cave - One of the most impressive grottoes in the entire 468-cave “Hidden City” complex, the Hospital Cave houses one ward for men, one for women, and another for critical/intensive care patients.Bamboo Villages - Viengxay has a growing reputation for its quality bamboo handicrafts and baskets. Stop first at Ban Poung Nakhao, before checking out Ban Phieng Ban in Meuang Kang and Ban Phoun San, home to some of Viengxay’s most skilled weavers.Ban Kang Red Tea - The Phou Tai first planted tea in 1828 in Ban Kang about 20 km from Viengxay. Originally grown for local consumption, its distinct flavor began attracting outsiders in the 1980s. Today, Ban Kang Meuang grows and harvests (March-August) tea from the 100-year-old trees.Sewing Cave - To streamline clothes and uniform production, the Sewing Cave was set up in 1969 at Ban Som, about 500 meters in from the south side of the main road. In 1973 a factory was constructed outside the cave, which operated around the clock with 200 workers until 1986. Textiles can still be purchased directly from local people. Textile Cave - Established in 1966 to meet the demand for clothes and uniforms, the Textile Cave is located about 1 km off the main road some 1.5 km east after the Sewing Cave. In 1972, the USSR outfitted the cave with equipment to produce large quantities of cotton materials, towels and mosquito nets. The cave ceased production in 1986. Access requires a local guide.Steel Cave - Located in Ban Xieng, about 50 km east of Viengxay (80 km from Xam Neua) and about 2.5 km northeast of the main road, the Steel Cave began manufacturing and selling shovels, hoes, picks, watering cans, knives, nuts, and bolts in 1968. By the early 1970s, the USSR had delivered machinery, and at its peak the cave employed 250 workers before closing in 1989.
Nam Heo
Na m Lu
ong
Nam Poun
Nam
Von
g
Ban Phieng Ban
Ban Kang Mong
Ban Navit
Ban Phoun San Ban XiengBan Som
Ban Poung Nakao
Lao Cuba FriendshipHospital Cave
Sewing Cave
Steel Cave
Textile Cave
VIENGXAY TOWN
Ban Nam Soi
Na Meo, Vietnam
To Xamtai
To Xam Neua
To Sopbao
Na
m Sim
VIETNAM
XAM NEUA BIKE TRAIL
Hop on a bike and follow a nice dirt road northwest along the Nam Hang and Nam Xam Rivers. Stop at Ban Poung and Ban Kan to view the ruins of a temple and historic stupas, and watch villagers distil rice alcohol. Further along is the Hmong village of Ban Sivilay and Ban Samakkhixay, home to Khmu people. At Ban Tham, you can visit the village’s temple, stupa, and nearby Buddha Cave. A guide is required to inspect the waterfalls further northwest.Ask the Tourist Information Center in Xam Neua for assistance finding a guide. Motorcycle rentals are available in Xam Neua at a shop on the west-side of the main road approximately 100m south from the Tourist Information Center.
Nam Xam
Ban Poung
Buddha Cave
Ban Ong
Ban Sivilay
Ban Samakkhixai
Ban Kor
Ban Tham
Ban Kang
Ban Houaxieng
Na
m Hang
XAM NEUA TOWN
Vat Phoxaysanalam
Ban Kan
M. Et
M. Sopbao
M. Xam Tai
M. Xiangkho
M. Kham
M. Viengxay
M. Houameuang
M. Viengthong
M. Viangkham
To Luang Prabang& Oudomxay
To VietnamTo Phonsavanh, Xieng Khouang
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X a m N e u aHOUAPHANH
V I E T N A M
XIENG KHOUANG
LUAN
G PR
ABAN
G
N a m E t - P h o u L o u e y N P A
N a m X a mN P A
Ban Tao HinBan Phao
Ban Soplao
Ban Sonkhoua
Ban Phonxay
Ban Ham Tai
Ban Saleuy
Ban Nam Soi
Ban Pa Hang
Ban Dan
Chieng Khuong
Long Sap
Na Meo
Nam E t
Nam Peu
Nam Het
Nam Neun
Nam Long
Nam Hao
Nam Vet
Nam Xam
Nam Ham
Nam
Gnut
Nam Hang
Nam
Sim
Nam Heo
Nam Tep
N am Phua
Nam
Vong
Nam
Poun
Nam
Ben
g
Nam Dik
Nam
Yong
Nam Peun
To T h a n h H o a & H a n o i
( V i e t n a m )
To S o n L a & H a n o i
( V i e t n a m )
To S o n L a ( V i e t n a m )
6A
6
61
1
Waterfall
Hot Spring
Cave
Local Border Crossing
International Border Crossing
Route Indicator
National Protected Area
Secondary Road
Main Road
Provincial Capital
LEGEND
District Capital
Village
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T H A I L A N D
C H I N A
M Y A N M A RV I E T N A M
C A M B O D I A
GULF of TONKINL A O SVIENTIANE
PHONSAVANH
XAM NEUA
XAYABOURY
HOUAPHANH
SAVANNAKHET
PAKSE
LUANG PRABANG
OUDOMXAY
Northern Heritage Route
LEGEND
VIENGXAY CAVES1Serving as the Pathet Lao revolutionary movement’s command center from 1964-1975, the “Hidden City”, housed some 20,000 people, government offices, temples, markets, schools, hospitals, theaters and factories.
NAM ET-PHOU LOUEY NPA2These adjoining National Protected Areas (NPAs) cover approximately 3,380 km2 of rugged mountainous terrain with peaks reaching 2,257 meters, and forested with mixed deciduous and evergreen trees. Key species include clouded leopards, tigers, and other large, indigenous cats.
NAM XAM NPA3Several endangered species inhabit this 1,734-km2 National Protected Area including tigers, gibbons, elephants, and threatened birds. Its steep hills, climbing to 1,800 meters, are covered with mixed deciduous and semi-evergreen forest and feed two main rivers: the Nam Xam and Nam Niam.
NAMNOUA WATERFALL4This spectacular waterfall gushes from an 80-meter-high ledge and through a rocky, tree-lined trough, as it plunges in a mist over two tiers until landing at its rocky bottom.
NAMEUANG HOT SPRINGS5Set in a serene valley of fields and rice paddies, the Nameuang Hot Springs offer visitors a relaxing stop when travelling to or from Xamneua. When at the hot springs, consider visiting nearby Houaiyad waterfall as well. These falls crash over sloping rocks to a pond, where the waters enter a small river. A short walk up a mountain ridge ends at Houaiyad Village, known for recycling crashed aircraft and cans to make belts.
PHONXAY-SALEUY WATERFALL6A short, easy walk on a flat trail from Road 6 leads to this tree-lined waterfall that drops some 100 meters, as it cascades over rock slabs to a final leap into a relaxing pool and on to a calm stream. A trail alongside the falls takes the adventurous to the top. Vendors on Saleuy Village’s roadside sell locally-made textiles.
7Locals have been bathing, washing clothes and even boiling eggs in this vast hot springs area, among the largest in Laos, for generations. Located in a pastoral setting of trees and rice paddies, the waters are said to have medicinal qualities and can reach temperatures of up to 100º C!
8Dating some 2,000 years, these menhirs (standing stones) were first examined in 1931, and burial sites in the area contained some ancient trinkets. Marked by standing rock slabs and stone disks, these relics, predating the Plain of Jars, are located along a 12-km mountain ridge in the province’s south.
XAM NEUA ATTRACTIONS9Xam Neua District center hosts a handful of interesting attractions: hilltop Independence Monument, Vat Phoxaysanalam’s 450-year-old Buddha, weaving houses producing export-quality goods, a pair of sacred stupas, a trio of markets, and the Nam Xam River Promenade with a pair of bridges for photo ops.
XAM TAI TEXTILES10Xam Tai has a reputation for weaving the best quality silk and cotton textile products in Laos, and visitors can follow this fascinating process that uses natural dyes to create intricate traditional designs at a number of the district’s villages. Sizeable wooden waterwheels irrigate Xam Tai Town’s rice fields.
Birthplace of Lao PDR
H i g h l i g h t s o f H o u a p h a n h P r o v i n c e
HINTANG ARCHAEOLOGICAL PARK
VIENGTHONG HOT SPRINGS
Viengxay Caves Audio TourThis Houaphanh highlight takes tourists into the amazing Hidden Cave City and “Birthplace of Laos” with an audio explanation of 18 stops from President Kaysone Phomvihane’s House to the entertainment amphitheater at Xanglot Cave.This cavern complex housed the Lao revolutionary movement’s military headquarters during the Indochina War, and a whole lot more. At its peak, the Viengxay Caves housed some 20,000 locals, who
transformed the grottoes into kitchens, factories, hospitals, and schools. You’ll also hear first-hand stories and thoughts of those who sought refuge in the caves during years of aerial bombardments. InformationContact the Viengxay Caves Visitor Center
The Nam Nern River TripIf you’re looking to catch a glimpse of rare wildlife, this two-day adventure takes you up the Nam Nern River in the Nam Et-Phou Louey National Protected Area, where few have ever gone. This not-for-profit tour led by local Khmu ethic guides places you on an evening long-tail boat ride with spotlights to peek at the nightlife of sambar deer, otters, barking deer, civets, slow loris, porcupines and owls. Adding to this authentic experience, the
guides show what it takes to survive in this rugged terrain. A portion of the tour fee is directed towards protecting endangered tigers.InformationContact the Nam Et-Phou Louey Visitor Center
MUST-DO ACTIVITIES