horace brown - british brewing in retrospect and prospect
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La ciencia cervecera en Inglaterra en el siglo 19TRANSCRIPT
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88 [March-April, 1948
HORACE BROWN MEMORIAL LECTURE*
BRITISH BREWING IN RETROSPECT AND PROSPECTBy Julian L. Baker"Men should not be vain in publishingtheir knowledge whether orally or by
wiling, neither should they be cunning insecreting what they have acquired, but begenerous and free in communicating thefacts making them as comprehensive and
as simple as possible."Bacon.
IntroductionWhen some months ago the Council of this
Institute awarded me the Horace BrownMedal, I confess I had misgivings in acceptingso signal an honour when I remembered thegreat scientific and technical achievements of
past recipients of the medal. Moreover, it iscustomary for the Medallist to give anaddress on a subject with "which his life'swork has been associated. I have been
tempted, however, to -take a liberal view ofmy task and to submit certain ideas on the
effect of past and present research, legislation,and changes.in the customs of the inhabitantsof these islands on the future of our greatindustry, rather than discuss my research"work on the biochemical changes undergone
by starch when acted on by the amylases,which might be considered of somewhatlimited interest.
The impetus of social changes which is somarkedly increasing "the ambit off beer
consumers, of improved processes and plant,and methods of presentation of products inpremises have brought about many changes
in brewery practice, and it is unlikely thatwe shall ever again see the varieties and
gravities of beer which were available to thepublic before the first world war. It thusbecomes a matter of interest to speculate and,if possible, foresee what confronts us.Whether some of the surmises which followbe correct or not, time will show. They aresubmitted with all sincerity.
Delivered at a meeting of the Institute ofBrewing, held at the Royal Institution, AlberaarieStreet, London, on 10th January, 1048 (
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March-April, 1948] baker: British brewing in retrospect and prospect 89seeds, the diffusion of COS through thestomata of leaves, thermal changes in opticalactivity of freshly prepared solutions ofsome of the sugars, bear witness to hisremarkable versatility.
His papers on the "Nitrogen Question inBrewing'* (this/om., 1907, 394; 1909, 169;1913, 84), and "Reminiscences of FiftyYears' Experience of the Application of
Scientific Method to Brewery Practice"(ibid., 1916, 267), will long be remembered.
Throughout his career Brown neverwavered from his belief that his life's worklay with the brewing industry, and in his
remarkable paper just mentioned he, to usethe words of his biographer, Dr. J. H. Millar,"struck a fair balance between the claims ofscience and art in brewing with a usefulprejudice in favour of science."
His final service to the brewing industrywas in conjunction with Sir Edward Thorpe,when the revision of the table of originalgravities of beers was made for the Board of
Inland Revenue.
Throughout the ages the creature comfortsof men have always been a subject of thepens of the literati. Much has been writtenon the early history of brewing, and there is a
fairly clear picture of it available from theEgyptian dynastic period. In 1860 Dr.
H. Bottinger, a well-known German chemistand manager of Allsopp's brewery at Burton,contributed an article on "Brewing" in
Muspratt's Chemistry as Applied to Arts andManufactures, which even now well repays
perusal, as much practical information isrecorded. But it reveals how small a partscience played in brewing in those days.Bottinger, who had a great personal influenceon the early life of Horace Brown, expressedhis conviction that the principles of brewingthen based on mere empiricism would in time
admit of a rational and scientific explanation.The correctness of this outlook can now be
appreciated, and it has served to convincethe industry of the vital necessity of organized
research work.The last half of the nineteenth centurywitnessed a great urge for scientific investiga
tion in all directions. The doctrines enunciated on agriculture by the great Germanchemist, Liebig, the work of Gilbert andLawes and a host of workers here and in othercountries on soils, their treatment, and the
requirements of different crops, were preparing the way for the introduction ofimproved varieties of seeds.
BarleyRemarkable advances have been made inmalting barleys in the first instance by the
classical work of two well-known men, Dr.H. Hunter and the late Dr. E. S. Beaven.An authoritative account of the position ofbarley growing in this country is set out in
Dr.' Beaven's "Horace Brown MemorialLecture" of 1934, and again in an interesting
article which he wrote, entitled "Barley forBrewing" (this/owrn., 1936,487). Beaven'sname will always be associated with hisPlumage-Archer and Dr. Hunter's withSpratt-Archer. These two pure-line barleysmay now be said to constitute the main bulk
of malting barleys in this country, replacingthe former Chevallier, Standwell, Goldthorpe,etc.
British brewers generally like to brewmalt made from two-rowed barleys mixedwith malt from six-rowed barleys grown inwarmer countries. It is claimed there ismore "sun" in the latter barleys, which
therefore constitute better brewing material.These barleys being more husky in character
certainly favour drainage in the mash tun,but beyond this the advantage appears tobe dubious in the light of the experience
gained in the war years, when such barleyswere not available.
According to Dr. H. Hunter, the area usedfor the cultivation of barley in this countryin pre-war years was about 1,000,000 acres.
During the war this acreage was doubled;some 60 per cent, of it served for the cultiva
tion of the two varieties Spratt-Archer andPlumage-Archer. Sixty per cent, of the totalbarley crops is used for malting and brewing,
10 per cent, for seeds and 30 per cent, forfeeding and other purposes. Nowadays,more Spratt-Archer than Plumage-Archer isgrown.
It is difficult to assess the monetary valueof the work of Beaven and Hunter to thebrewing industry, but it must run into
astronomical figures. In 1900, first-classmalts rarely yielded extracts of 95 Ib. perquarter. As more of the Archer types of
barleys came into cultivation the extractvalues rose, and for many years past,
provided climatic conditions were favourable,figures of 97-99 Ib. extract per quarter have
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90 BAKER.' BRITISH BREWING IN RETROSPECT AND PROSPECT [March-April, 1948
been customary. Sixteen years ago the lateSir Walter Fletcher, Secretary of the Medical
Research Council, stated in his address"Biology and Statecraft" that the newbarleys as calculated from official returnsmeant a saving of fully 1,000,000 a year.The work of Beaven and Hunter had thusrepaid to the country already far more than
all the Government expenditure on agricultural research of every kind since the war of
1914-18. Sir Walter Fletcher truly said"there could be no plainer example of howthis new science of genetics can add to thewealth of the nation."
Imported Barleys.Under the old maltduty it was not profitable to steep thin six-
rowed barleys, but after its repeal in 1880 theuse of thin foreign barleys increased rapidly,
particularly when there was a shortage ofsound home barley. Between 1890 and 1900the six-rowed Californian brewing barleybecame very popular in this country, largely
owing to its uniformity of character from yearto year. In fact this and other importedsix-rowed barleys accounted for 20 -per cent.of the malt made in Great Britain.
Grave misgivings were felt by brewerswhen, at an early stage in the recent war,importation of these foreign barleys forbrewing ceased. Technical difficulties such
as drainage in the mash tun were thoughtprobable, and there were forebodings that theloss of a large proportion of barley with the
"sun in it" would cause other abnormalities.But brewers rose to the occasion, and forsome years past they have had to brew withmalt made from barley grown in these islands;
and, if allowance be made for the enforceddrop in gravities, with remarkable success.The experience so gained has proved beyond
doubt that home grown barleys can be usedalone in brewinga point of considerableeconomic significance.
In this connection reference may be madeto a series of malting and brewing trials with
three types of English barleys, which weremade in 1946 for the purpose of determiningunder ordinary conditions the effect of using
one type of malt only on fermentation andyeast crop, and on the character and stabilityof the beer. Successive brewings (12 qrs.)were made with each malt, the yeast from
the first brewing being'used in the secondbrewing and so on for five or six brewings.
The results (this Journ., 1946, 17) showed
that whilst the three barleys showed variations in composition and were only ofmedium quality as judged by ordinary
standards, yet the series of five beers brewedfrom each behaved normally throughout thebrewing process. The yeast crops weresatisfactory, all the beers were sound and
bright, and remained so for the usual time.My colleague Mr. T. J. Ward and myself areindebted to Messrs. Watney Combe Reid &
Co. for placing facilities at our disposal forthe conduct of the series of makings andbrewings.
Messrs. B. M. Brown and J. Wilmot ofWhitbread & Co. (this Journ., 1947, 10)reported the results of a somewhat similar
series of makings and brewings with the samestrains of barleys grown in the following year.The barleys, though not of a high quality,malted satisfactorily without special treatment and produced satisfactory beers, which
passed into the trade without comment andremained stable for normal periods.
These results are of some interest and,very briefly summed up, show that Englishmalts of different quality with nitrogen
percentages varying from 1-51 to 2-00 percent, in straight brewing produce normalyeast crops and beers. In a measure thisprepares the way for trials on a brewery scalewith improved races of barley already in
existence and those yet to be geneticallyraised. As an example, early ripeningvarieties, if firmly established, would be ofgreat help to the farmer in staggering
harvesting operations.The improvement of malting barleys is afascinating study, and much valuable workhas been carried out on it during recent yearsby Dr. H. Hunter at the National Institute
of Agricultural Botany. Those who areinterested should read his paper (this Journ.,
1943, 296) in which his views and the resultsof his work are set out. The production of anew variety of barley presents many difficulties, for whilst such a variety may befavourably received by the grower because in
all its agricultural aspects it is satisfactory,it may not meet the requirements of thebrewer, and vice versa. In fact, the produc
tion of new varieties is still largely a questionof trial and error, but such material advanceshave already been made that it is legitimateto anticipate that further systematic research
will result in new varieties suitable alike togrower and user. The realization of such a
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March-April, 1948] baker: British brewing in retrospect and prospect 91hope would, it is obvious, have a profoundeffect on brewing in general.
MaltingIt cannot be claimed that there have beenany substantial changes in malting technique
since early times. When new makings havebeen erected, thought and care have been
directed to their layout to embrace mddernideas of internal transport of material,
economy of fuel and other obvious considerations. The fact, however, remains that theoutlook has been conservative; maltstersappear to be wedded to the floor systemand with a few exceptions have been shyof
embarking on new procedures such as havebeen adopted elsewhere. Another difficultyis that of installing mechanical devices for
floor turning, drums and improved kilns,in existing and expensive buildings.
Since the beginning of the century verykeen competition has obtained amongst
maltsters-for-sale, and small profits have notencouraged additional capital outlay on
improvements. Further, the tendency forbrewers to make a proportion of their ownmalt has greatly increased, particularly
among larger brewing firms. It will beapparent that the maltster-for-sale is in adifficult position, but his survival is a matter
of interest to the brewer who does not wantto make all the malt he requires, as he would
then lose any favourable turn in fluctuatingmarket prices. Moreover, a large quantity
of malt is now made on commission terms,the barley being purchased by agreement
between brewer and malting firm and maltedat a fixed charge per quarter. This arrangement permits the maltster to work to some
thing approaching capacity and- obviateserection of new malting buildings by thebrewer.
The ever-increasing overhead charges forlabour and fuel and the replacement or repair
of makings arising from war damage arecausing some interesting changes of. outlook,
and various modifications in the adaptationand construction of the well-known Saladinbox, the drum method, mechanical turning infloor maltings, and Continental and Americanprocedures for rapid drying and curing are
all under consideration and will be installedas soon as circumstances and materials
permit. In the past, malting drums andmechanical turning have been used in a fewinstances in this country with satisfactory
results, but the inherent conservatism of theindustry has not aided a general development of modern iteas. It is clear, however,
that compulsion is bringing about a changein this respect.
The storage and maturation of barleyand the proper age at which to malt it to get
the best results are now becoming matters ofinterest among maltsters, largely due to the
very promising work of Dr. L. R. Bishop(see e.g., this Journ., 1947, 86).
HopsHops appear to have been first introducedinto this country early in the sixteenthcentury, the cuttings being obtained from
Flanders. Formerly they were grown inmany districts, including Cheshire and
Lancashire, but gradually their cultivationbecame restricted to the present areas.
However, the hop can grow elsewhere, and itmay well be that in the near future the
possibility of other hop-growing areas mayrequire consideration.
Advances in the culture and improvementof varieties of hops, although considerable,have not been so rapid as with barley, the
underlying cause being the understandabledesire of the grower to conserve his capital
outlay. Another difficulty is that of assessing the real value of the hop whether for
copper or dry-hopping purposes, and, whilstvigorous efforts are being made in these
directions by brewers and chemists alike,the study is really only in its infancy.Decades of work have evolved the P.V.determinationa useful weapon, but onewhich does not carry us very far. The
pioneer work of Prof. Salmon and his schoolof workers in the production and introduction
of new varieties has been of value to thebrewer, and this value will be greater in the
future. Already some of the new varietieshave proved to be successful in varying
degrees in their brewing value and in resistance to disease. The industry owes a greatdebt to Prof. Salmon and to his colleagues for
the long, arduous and patient care devotedto this subject, and it must be a pleasure to
him to realize that his efforts are at lengthproving fruitful.
Growers and brewers alike are shy ofinnovations, and the lack of definite analyti
cal methods on the evaluation of hopsfor the P.V. although useful is at best a bluntinstrumenthas acted as a contributory
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BAKER: BRITISH BREWING IN RETROSPECT AND PROSPECT [March-April, 1948
cause. In this matter the grower waits onthe chemist. It is no easy task, and will
require much patient investigation andcorrelation of results on a scale far morecomprehensive than has sa far been possible
with the Institute Research Scheme. Evenso, much useful work has been done on a verydifficult subject. '
The acreage under hops is insufficient forthe brewers' needs, and during the war yearsthe grower has been beset by all manner ofdifficulties. The ravages of some diseasesare unfortunately on the increase, and itseems reasonable that new districts for hopfields must be sought and the present landsgiven a rest. It should be borne in mind
that some of the best hop fields have been incultivation under the same crop and heavilymanured for a great number of years, and it
may well be that some protective constituentor condition of the soil becomes graduallydiminished or altered in character, with the
result that the plant then offers less resistanceto disease. Unfortunately, the attendantcapital outlay on the growth and drying of
hops as practised is very heavy, and tends toprohibit the speculative development of newareas, but if there be anything in this surmise,it is a situation which will have to be faced.
In a measure the hop grower is not in a particularly happy position, for he supplies onlythe brewer; so far no other use has been foundfor this prolific crop.
Before discussing the advances which havebeen made in our knowledge of the composition of mash tun wort, a few remarks con
cerning the enzymic hydrolysis of maltstarch may not be out of place. An enor
mous amount of labour has been expended inthis country and abroad on the elusive starchgranule and its hydrolytic products, and on'
no subject have more researches beenpublished, so much laborious work done, somany unconfirmed experiments recorded, and
so many tentative and arbitrary findings putforward. The pertinacity with whichchemists attack this subject is understandable, for starch is one of the principal foods
of man. Moreover, its breakdown productsare of profound interest to our own industry.
The writer has been a worker in this fieldsince 1894, first with A. R. Ling and from
1906 to 1939 with H. F. E. Hulton. In thecourse of our work the idea gradually
gained ground that the principal products of
the enzymic hydrolysis of starch were not sonumerous or so complicated as stated by
C. O'Sullivan, Horace Brown and manyother workers. At all temperatures themain products of such hydrolysis are maltose,
maltodextrin, stable dextrin and a smallundetermined amount of a low molecularweight carbohydrate, dextrin-like in nature,which may well be a trisaccharide as stated
by the Danish chemist, Blom (this Journ.,1947, 302).
At conversion temperatures between 60and 122 F., no maltodextrin can be found,for, if produced, it is at once hydrolyzed tomaltose; at 160 F. its presence is definite,
and at 165 F. very marked. The stabledextrin and maltodextrin were isolated in a
pure state and their properties described; theformer dextrin resembles ct-amylodextrin,which I isolated and described in 1902
(J. Chem. Soc, 1902, 134; this Journ., 1902,628), in its greater resistance, as comparedwith starch, to the action of a- and j3-
amylases.Having established the facts concerningthe character of the products of the hydrolysis of starch by malt amylase, the corollary
is their isolation and identification in breweryworts and beer, and this is likely to prove adifficult problem. In this connection it is
interesting to note that L. R. Bishop hassucceeded in preparing pure crystalline maltose from mash tun wort and has alsosuggested a method for the estimation ofdextrin (this Journ., 1944, 6). So far the
conclusions which I have submitted havenot been challenged, but they assist to onlya limited extent in the fundamental problemof the make up of the starch molecule.
In 1987 H. E. Armstrong wrote (this Journ.,1937,383):
" I doubt if we can assert anything more to-daythan that the molecule is very complex; that theprimary unit is a glucose radicle; the secondary amaltose radicle; that there is some probability
also that a triose complex is present. Formulaesuch as have been drawn are practically worthless."
It is thus apparent that what may betermed the enzyme method of attack toelucidate the constitution of starch is insufficient. In recent years the organic chemists
have tackled the problem, and the brilliantresearches of Sir Norman Howarth and Prof.
E. L. Hirst and then* schools have established a number of facts which bear on theproblem. It may well be that the joint
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March-April, 1948] baker: British brewing in retrospect and prospect 03efforts of the biochemist and the organicchemist may result in success, but it isobvious that much has yet to be done by askilfully-led team of workers. One recentand important discovery by C. S. Hanes,which constitutes a step forward, is theenzymic synthesis of a component of natural
starch.Nevertheless, the problem of the changeswhich malt starch undergoes in the mash
tun is relatively simple, compared with thataffecting the nitrogenous constituents. Thelatter provide a problem of great complexity,and have been and still are the subject of
investigation in many directions. Notwithstanding the advances which have beenmade, we are only on the threshold ofunderstanding the subject. As Horace
Brown pointed out many years ago, thework of the physiologist must go hand inhand with that of the chemist, if the problemsof agricultural and malting practice are ever
to emerge from empiricism.There are indications that more of therecent work is following this precept.
Strenuous efforts are being made to isolateand study qualitatively and quantitativelythe nitrogenous constituents of barley andmalt, the changes they undergo duringmalting and mashing, and their effect and
behaviour during fermentation. The results of the studies of L. R. Bishop and
R. S. W. Thome at Birmingham in thisconnection are of great promise, and have
already advanced our knowledge materially.It is reasonable to anticipate further definite
results from the Institute's enlarged researchscheme.
It may be anticipated that as the amountsand kinds of carbohydrate, nitrogenous, andother constituents of wort most necessaryfor brewing become known, the growers ofbarley will find themselves in a surer positionthan they are at present. Already field
trials at the agricultural research stationshave effected great improvements in malting
barleys, but much yet requires to be donebefore growers of barley have precise knowledge of the type which they should produce.
The Mashing ProcessCenturies of experience and the advancesin scientific knowledge of the reactions which
take place in the mash tun have not alteredessentially the procedure for obtaining extract from malt. The modern mash tun is
provided with an external mashing machine,internal mashing' machinery, rotating sparge
arms and a false bottom of fitted metalplates supported on short feet which servesas a draining area to separate the malt
husks from the wort. The mash tun isa well-tried and, up to a point, an efficient
piece of apparatus, but the fact remains thatthe removal of the wort is not complete.
At the beginning of this century thesuggestion was mooted that the mash shouldbe passed through a filter press. It was triedin a spasmodic fashion but not very success
fully, owing to poor designs on the part offilter-press makers. Moreover, there was animpression among brewers that abnormallyhigh extracts were to be distrusted, althoughreally nothing tangible could be adduced tosupport such a statement.
In fact, the inherent conservatism of thebrewer and the strong financial position of theindustry were against the innovation, andlittle has been heard since of the mash filter in
British breweries. America and the Continent, where competition plays a greater part
than here, have adopted the process withsuccess. Economic considerations ultimatelywill compel a reconsideration of the use of
the mash filter, and in this connection theforthcoming work of the Institute's researchscheme will be of great help. The problem
is a big one, as it entails heavy alterations andexpense; against these, however, must be
set material saving in time and more efficientremoval of extract.
FermentationThe classic work of Pasteur, his controversy with Liebig and his school ofthought marked the beginning of an epochin the study of the problems involved in thephenomenon of fermentation. Earlierworkers had formulated the doctrine that
there could be no decomposition of sugar, i.e.,no fermentation, without the physiologicalactivity of vegetation. These ideas wereelaborated by Pasteur, and it was due to hisresearches that this doctrine gained recogni
tion. In his well-known work Etudes sur laBiSre (1876) he discussed the diseases towhich beer is exposed when it is attacked bybacteria; and, since these are distinguishable
from yeast cells when examined under amicroscope, he recommended the employment of that instrument for diagnostic
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94 BAKER: BRITISH BREWING IN RETROSPECT AND PROSPECT [March-April, 1948purposes in breweries. He also urged theimportance of conducting the fermentation ofbeer wort so that foreign organisms cannot
gain admission. Thus was the way madeclear for far-reaching improvements in the
brewing industry. Pasteur with his strongimpression that bacteria were the cause ofbeer diseases suggested the purification ofbrewery yeast by treatment with cane sugarand tartaric acid, which would result in the
suppression of the bacteria. He made noattempt to differentiate between the sac-charomycetes and non-saccharomycetes, andat that time there was no evidence to distinguish a brewery yeast from a disease yeast.
The botanical treatment of the problem hadnot occurred to him, and he had no exactmethods of pure cultivation. But Pasteurhad started the ball rolling and there wasmuch controversy concerning the degenera
tion and transformations which occur inbrewery yeast.
To Emil Chr. Hansen must fall the honourof clearing up many of these difficulties andmisunderstandings. This great investigator,to whom brewers are profoundly indebted,elaborated methods for the pure culture ofyeasts from single cells, and his work afforded
results which have had a lasting effect on thefermentation industries. His criticisms ofPasteur's investigations and his polemics withDuclaux, Velten and others afford mostinteresting and instructive reading.
The application of Hansen's pure yeastsystem, although successful in many
Continental breweries, was not so -in thiscountry. The trials were made in a cautious
and half-hearted manner from about 1890to 1910, but the general opinion held bybrewers was that no advantages wereapparent, and that the "pure" yeast rapidlydeteriorated. Moreover, the great disadvantage was the difficulty experienced in inducing
secondary fermentation, which was necessaryin many of the types of beer brewed at that
time. In 1900 to 1903, I fermented successfully at Castle Street, Long Acre, portions
(100 barrels) of many gyles of mild ale,but it was found that after the third successive fermentation the yeast had become
mixed in type, and had to be renewed fromthe original culture.
The then rather parlous state of thebrewing industry, and the outpouring of
capital in the rush for purchase of tied housesmade brewers in this country conservative in
their outlook on any departure from recognized practice, and it was felt that notenough was known of the Hansen principleto justify the expenditure of large sums forthe radical alteration of existing fermentation
plant.Looking back on those days it can berealized now that the underlying cause for theapparent failure of the " pure yeast" doctrinewas the contamination of wort from air, andplant infection, due to the very elementaryideas then current regarding cleanliness and
to the unsatisfactory conditions of yeaststorage.
With Hansen's name, that of AlfredJorgensen will be associated. His bookMicro-organisms and Fermentation has run
through many editions in this country. Hisassociation with Hansen began during theirbotanical studies at Copenhagen University,and it was this early collaboration whichresulted later on in such far-reaching resultsin the Continental fermentation industries.
Since experience in this country indicatedthat pitching yeast derived from a single celldid not function in secondary fermentation,attempts were made to ferment worts withmixed types, each produced from single cells.
Hansen regarded this as a schism, but claimsfor satisfactory results have been made byseveral observers, and a particularly interesting and successful application was suggestedand introduced by B. M. Brown of Whit-bread's Brewery in 1934 (this Jottrn., 1934,9).
The work of Pasteur, Hansen andJorgensen started vigorous and productivelines of investigation on yeasts, moulds andbacteria, which have greatly increased our
knowledge of the properties and functions ofthese organisms and the part they play in
fermentation industries generally. Much remains to be done before anything approaching
a complete list of the great number ofmicro-organisms of interest to the brewer can
be drawn up. This it is to be hoped, willconstitute one of the tasks of the Institute's
research scheme. Valuable contributionshave already been made on this subject by
J. L. Shimwell and also by T. K. Walker.One profound effect of Pasteur andHansen's work was to bring home to brewersthe importance of cleanliness in the brewing
plant and the prevention of aerial and otherinfections. In this respect the brewery ofto-day is very different from that of fiftyyears ago. The necessity of freedom from.
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March-April, 1048] baker: British brewing in retrospect and prospect
and elimination of, external and internalsources of infection is now recognized by thebrewer, and modern plant is designed to meet
this demand. Formerly the heavier gravitiesand high hop rate permitted liberties to be
taken in the matter of infection, but it is quiteanother matter with the low-gravity beerswhich we are now compelled to brew.
Hansen's ideas on the permanent individuality of races of yeast remained undis
puted until W. Winge and O. Laustsenworking in the famous Carlsberg laboratoriesin Copenhagen found that by delicate micro-manipulation it was possible to induce a
spore from each of two distinct species ofyeast to conjugate forming a zygote, whichsubsequently developed buds of a hybridyeast (Compt. rend. Trav. Lab. Carlsberg,S&r. physiol., 1035,21, 77; 1030, 22, 337; thisJourn., 1035, 406; 1930, 406).
It is thus evident that a culture of yeastderived from a single cell may contain morethan one type of yeast, and even the product
from a single spore may also consist of atleast two types. Previous work on yeasts
has been limited to selection of types spontaneously produced in nature, but there isnow the possibility of work on the breedingof yeasts corresponding to that carried out onthe higher plants.
This interesting discovery of Winge's unfolds far-reaching- lines of investigation.Already advances have been reported, andone of the artificial hybrids is in use in anEnglish yeast factory, where it is considered
superior to its "natural" predecessor. It isknown that the type of yeast used in fermentation plays a part in the flavour of the
resulting product, and in this connection thewine yeasts are a notable example. Asknowledge of the constituents of wort priorto fermentation progresses and fari passuthat of the properties of certain yeasts, it issurely not too radical a view to anticipatecomplete control of brewery fermentations
in any desired respect. It can be visualizedthat in the future something of the nature of a
"standard hopped wort" will become generalin British breweries, with any particularflavour to meet local requirements controlledby appropriate yeasts. Criticism is antici
pated in submitting this suggestion, but itseems highly probable that something of this
nature faces the industry.*There has been a slow but steady advancein the improvement of fermentation plant in
British breweries, although the fundamentalprinciples of the skimming and dropping,Burton union, and stone square systemsremain the same. The improvements havebeen in the direction of obtaining purity of
the air in the fermentation-rooms, control oftemperature during fermentation, ease ofkeeping the plant clean, preservation of theyeast crop, and reduction of fermentationlosses. Owing to the high beer duty the last-mentioned item has much significance, and a
former President of the Institute, Mr.W. Scott, has devised a process now in usein many breweries to effect this purpose.
Fermentation vessels made of copper andwood are being gradually replaced by othermaterials of a less costly and more durable
character, such as stainless steel, aluminiumalloys and concrete. Plastic materials maywell have a future in this connection.
The introduction of the paraflow withwhich Dr. Seligman's name is so closely
associated is a notable step forward in thesubmission of a clean wort to the action ofyeast, and the necessity of pure air andcontrolled temperatures in the fermentingrooms is now claiming the close attention ofbrewers. Progress in these respects is unfortunately retarded by constructional difficulties inherent in adapting old buildings tomodern requirements, whilst brewing opera
tions have to continue. A brewery cannotcease production whilst a new building toaccommodate modern plant is being erected.New building is rarely possible, and the besthas to be made of the existing lay-out. The
present position of this country will delaystill further improvements and developmentsin building and in plant.
The changes affecting the presentation andconsumption of the national beverage havebeen very great during the last 50 years,
economic considerations and Governmentordinances arising from the two great warsbeing largely responsible. The high prices ofwines and spirits have had their effect in
increasing the number of beer drinkers.More women now drink beer and, in thisrespect, improved licensed premises and the
* Those who are interested in the hybridization ofyeasts should read an interesting account of Winge'swork by Prof. R. H. Hopkins (this Journ., 1040, 68)and a later paper by Dr. R. S. W. Thome on
"Inheritance in Yeast" (ibid.. 1047, 25).
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more liberal outlook on life which obtains inlarge centres of population have had aconsiderable influence. The spread of knowledge brought about by education that excessive consumption is harmful and unsocial, thegeneral improvement in conditions of life,
and the high price of beer and its low alcoholiccontent, have each and all contributed to thegreater sobriety which is now so apparent ascompared with the past.
If those responsible for the retailing of beerhad a free hand and were not so hampered bythe curious andin many casesarchaicregulations enforced by various authorities,the progress of internal and external improvements in, and the alteration of, licensed
premises would doubtless have been morerapid and substantial. For at least threedecades it has been the settled policy ofbreweries owning houses to improve them
and to bring them up to date to meet modernrequirements. The old gin "palace" is
vanishing and the many fine and attractivelicensed premises now to be seen in town
and country show what can be done andwhat may be anticipated in the future.
Few people outside the brewing industryrealize the many restrictions imposed by the
Licensing Acts upon reasonable developments and alterations of licensed premises.
It is not so much that the provisions of thoseActs are contested as the fact that such pro
visions are not always fairly interpreted.The expression "discretion of the LicensingJustices" freely permits the faddist reformerand temperance fanatic to indulge in pre
judiced views, so that instead of judicial andimpartial decisions the owners of licensed
premises are subjected to personal and partialinterpretation of the Acts. The manydifficulties, and obstructions to alterations
and improvements in licensed premisesnecessary to meet modern conditions, andparticularly those connected with new licences, are too well known to brewers to need
any elaboration. The existing licensing lawcalls urgently for revision and the removal ofmany anomalies, so that it may harmonize
with present social requirements.Whilst the necessity for State control ofthe conditions affecting the sale and consump
tion of alcoholic beverages is admitted, it isregrettable that so many take a narrow viewand lose sight of the fact of the very important
part played by licensed premises in the clublife of the community.
Throughout the ages there has been a closeassociation between the consumption ofalcohol and social relaxation, and there canbe no denial that the reason basically is
psychological. Alcohol plays a great partin the lighter side of our life, but excessiveindulgence has been the cause of much miseryand unhappiness and accounts for theimmense amount of prejudice which hasaccumulated on all sides of the "drink"
problem. As mankind advances in knowledge and culture, a sense of resentmentarises against the continuation of restrictionsto his legitimate leisure and entertainment,which were deemed necessary to the welfare
of his forefathers. Let us hope that a morehumane and considerate legislature will
evolve something better than the presentirksome regulations.
As a result of changes in the taste of thepublic arising from the aftermath of war and
from legislation, the strength of beers hassteadily dropped. It seems unlikely that
the production of heavily hopped beers of60 and over will ever again become general.Although a pleasant memory to many, they
are forgotten by or unknown to the majority,and interest now centres in the appropriatepresentation of low gravity products.
Whilst some still prefer draught beer, theconsumption of filtered carbonated beer fromeither cask, other movable container, orbottle is greatly on the increase. The
pewter pot of former days has almostvanished, glass having taken its place, andthis has resulted in the demand for brilliance
and clarity of the beverage.Great advances have been made in recentyears in the chilling, filtering, and carbonation
plants of breweries, necessitating heavycapital expenditure. The construction of thedifferent types of machines involved in the
bottling of carbonated beer is eloquenttestimony to the skill of our engineers. Themany patents granted for all types ofmachines involved in the bottling processl
for detergents for cleaning bottles, etc., wouldseem to suggest that more research and
enquiry have been directed to the finishedproduct than to the brewing of it.
ResearchFrom early years to the end of the seconddecade of the present century, research work
associated with brewing and fermentationwas carried out by individuals deeply
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March-April, 1948] baker: British brewing in retrospect and prospect 97interested in their subject. With a fewnotable exceptions the results of such workexcited only a mild interest amongst those inthe hierarchy of the industry. In those daysrelatively few breweries had a scientific staff,
and any problems or difficulties were referredto the consultant in whose laboratories muchvaluable work of a pioneer character was
done, the results in many cases being published in the different journals.
The experience during the first world warof the immense value to many essentialindustries at a very critical time in ournational life of organized research carried outby workers under efficient directorship,
brought home to manufacturers the urgentnecessity of research, if this country was tohold its own in the markets of the world.The Government encouraged the movementand provided financial assistance. The brewing industry, however, decided to adopt anindependent line, and the Institute Research
Scheme from its inception in 1919 has beenfinanced by brewing and malting firms with
out State aid, freedom of outlook and operation being thus assured. With the modestsum at its disposal, the scheme admittedlyhas made good progressthanks to theefforts of those engaged on the work, to theassistance and advice of distinguished scien
tists outside the industry, and to manyactively engaged in brewing and malting.
The industrial world now more than everrealizes the necessity of research, andhastens to give material expression to this
feeling, if the frequent advertisements appearing in the Press for qualified workers anddirectors of research be any indication.The intensive scientific team-work whichproduced such remarkable results during thetwo war periods, and certain adjustments inthe incidence of taxation designed to encourage research in industry have acted as aspur. Now the major industries have re
search organizations, and so have some of theminor ones also. Brewers arc not in the
rearguard in this accelerated movement anda comprehensive programme of work hasbeen arranged and approved and, what ismost important, supported by ample financial
aid from the Brewers' Society.The scheme was launched on 1st Octoberof last year under the able direction of Prof.Gulland, and we were all pleased that theservices of so distinguished a scientist hadbeen secured. But Fate willed otherwise.
and owing to the railway accident on 26thOctober, 1947, we were deprived of his help.
Men of Prof. Gulland's eminence and capabilities are rare, and the Institute may find itdifficult to replace him.
The labour involved in formulating theenlarged scheme of research has been great,and we are indebted to Dr. Seligman for thevaluable and painstaking services he hasrendered as Chairman of the Research
Committee, to the committees dealing withthe different subjects needing investigationand to our Secretary, Mr. W. H. Bird, whohas so wholeheartedly devoted his energiesto the end in view.
Reference has been made to the strikingresults emanating from physical and chemicalresearch during the stress of the war years,and a recollection of these should not relegatethe long range view of research work to asecondary place. With so many of what maybe regarded as minor problems connectedwith brewing which, in the opinion of some,require immediate investigation, there is apossibility that efforts to solve them mayclaim more time and attention than ought tobe allowed compared with what should beregarded as the main work of the ResearchScheme.
The pregnant remarks of Sir Henry Daleat the last meeting of the British Associationon this aspect of research work are of thehighest importance. He drew attention to
the remarkable stimulus given by thenecessities of war to scientific research,involving as it did an unparalleled concentra
tion of scientific collaboration. These practical results were, however, achieved only bythe diversion of the thought and efforts ofthe leaders of scientific research from theadvancement of basic science to the attainment of certain material ends, which, at the
time, were of primary importance.Thus the outlook of the workers in purescience was wholly changed during that
period. Sir Henry Dale suggested that thereis a grave danger to the future of science, ifresearch workers come to be confirmed inthis war-time attitude that it is the exclusive
task of science to provide rapid solutions ofpractical problems as they arise.
The following words from a leader in TheTimes of 28th August, 1947, dealing with SirHenry Dale's address aptly expressed theviews of serious-minded men, and served as
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98 BAKER: BRITISH BREWING IN RETROSPECT AND PROSPECT [March-April, 1948a salutary caution to "all out" exponents ofshort-term research:
"Nobody,' of course, will wish to underrate the importance of applied science or to contend that this country and the world are not inurgent need of spectacular achievements but alsoof numberless improvements. On the other hand,every great advance which is now occupyingpopular attention, every scientific war-time
achievement had its origin in research not onlycarried out with no other object than gain of pure
knowledge bnt in research which at the time of itsaccomplishment, not even the most far-sighted
ever suggested could have any practical interest."Whilst there are many immediate problemsassociated with the brewing industry capable
of solution by a team of research workers,there are those of a fundamental characterwhich demand a "long-term" researchpolicy, and it is in this sense that Sir HenryDale's remarks merit attention. Doubtless
able directorship of our Research Scheme willestablish an appropriate balance between thetwo policies of "long-" and "short-"termresearch.The Outlook for the Brewing Industry
It is with a degree of reluctance that thisaspect of my address is approached, as it issomewhat speculative and probably some ofthe ideas which follow will not be received
with unanimity. An attempt has beenmade to give a brief outline of the moreimportant scientific and technical advances
which have been made during the last halfcentury, and from the results achieved it ispermissible to surmise what general changesin practice are probable in the future.
One point to bear in mind is that brewingis not a free industry, in that brewery
premises are subject, to close supervision andinspection by the Excise Authorities. Nomaterial may be used in brewing other thanmalt, grain, sugar and hops unless the
sanction of the Commissioners of Excise isobtained. The excise officer can be presentat brewing operations and can take samples
of all materials which the brewer uses.Nothing can be added to beer such as
saccharine or liquorice, as they producesweetness and fullness and so replace gravitywhich would be a loss to the revenue. No
preservative other than sulphurous acid orsulphites may be used in beer, the permissible
limit being 5 grains per gallon of SO2. Thissupervision has one advantage in that it
furnishes all the evidence required to confutethe propaganda so frequently used by
prohibitionists that chemicals are used inbrewing. '
Owing to the vast revenue derived frombeerthe duty last year amounted to
259-7 millions, the capital sunk in tied-houses and the concomitant conditions of
trading, brewing is to some extent a protected industry. Hence there is not thesame amount or degree of competition asin
free industries, and this is probably themajor reason for the slow changes in the'improvement of essential brewing operations.
It will be admitted that much of the plantand many brewery buildings are, to put itmildly, out of date.
Under present circumstances the need forthe reduction of operational charges by theintroduction of new plant and improvements
is not so urgent as in the free industries, andthere is an understandable inclination to leavewell alone. But when new plant and vessels
have to be installed, the brewer is as keen asany other progressive industrialist to get the /best and most suitable for his purpose; but
so often this desirable aim is prevented bythe general lay-out of old brewery buildings.Indeed, some of the larger breweries arehopeless in this respect with their out-of-datestructure, their great length of mains so
awkwardly placed that it is next to impossible to keep them in that state of cleanliness which the brewer desires, steam mainsrunning great distances with consequent lossof heat, and a number of other well recognized difficulties. Brewery directorates areaware of the many drawbacks to improvements, and the multiple trading conditionsmake it extremely difficult to start afresh
and build an entirely new brewery; underpresent restrictions it is impossible.
It is a problem which will ultimately haveto be faced, and, with improved methods oftransport, breweries situated in areas of greatvalue in large towns and cities will have tobe transferred to localities as near and as
suitable as possible, where space is lessvaluable. In this matter one aspect merits
attention. Owing to general economic conditions the consumption of beer is now spreadmore generally than it was formerly, particularly in domestic life, and the demand forbottled beer has steadily increased. Bottlingplants occupy relatively large areas, andmany breweries have not the space to meet
the requirements of their trade, and consequently have to transfer operations to
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March-April, 1948] baker: British brewing in retrospect and prospect 99distant bottleries.' This often involves, in
addition to transport of the beer, eithercooling, filtration and carbonation, or any oneof these, all of which are more convenientlycarried out at the home brewery, and with
less damage to the beer. In cases when alocal demand has been successfully fostered
for the products of some far distant brewery,it may well be economical and convenient to
send beer in bulk and bottle in that area.This is, in fact, being done in a number ofcases. .
Another matter which brewers are considering is the presentation of their bottledbeers. We are a conservative people in
domestic affairs, but it must be admittedthat our beer bottles are generally notattractive on the table or sideboard. Astudy of the containers used on the Continentand in America and of their labelling is wellworth undertaking, as the psychologicalvalue of an attractively labelled bottlecannot be ignored. It would also be an
advantage and save much trouble andexpense, if brewers could agree to use
standard sizes in interchangeable bottles.Most brewing companies these days do farmore than supply beer. Their houses aresocial centres; they provide meals, and in
increasing numbers, entertainment. Concerts where distinguished artists perform,
and lectures and addresses by well-knownmen are not unknown, and there is everyindication that this movement will bedeveloped. The catering side has increased
greatly, but far more could be done in thisrespect, as so many houses in our large towns
occupy prominent positions appropriate forthe provision of meals. Owing to thegeneral conditions of life there seems to be an
increasing movement for the more substantialmeals to be consumed away from the home,and with the liberal views now obtainingregarding entry to licensed premises there is a
large field awaiting development by thelicensed victualler.
The crowded premises at meal times
provide striking evidence of this. Ourhabits under the force of circumstances, thegreat numbers of women now employed onwork other than that of a domestic nature,and those who consequently have to takemeals away from their homes, are factorswhich demand consideration in this con
nection.It appears inevitable that licensed premiseswill play a much greater part in the life ofthe people than heretofore; no longer will thesale of exciseable liquors be the only con
sideration, and there will be a more appropriate balance between these and food andentertainment.
It is to be hoped that legislation will bydegrees remove the anomalies and difficultiesnow experienced by the licensee. Morefreedom in these matters would result inkeener competition amongst brewers, andcompetition means a closer consideration
than is at present possible of how existingprocesses can be improved and made moreeconomical. It seem probable that it is inthis direction that advances will be made.There is much leeway for the mechanical side
to make up, before it can approach theadvances which have been made in theknowledge of and improvements in materials.
Financial enterprise has brought aboutamalgamation of a great number of smallerbreweries with larger concerns and theeconomies in overhead and other chargesso brought about are reflected in satisfactory
dividends. This movement still continuesand it would appear that in the future mostof the smaller concerns will be absorbed andthe brewing industry will be in the hands of afew large companies. Thus there will be a
gradual tendency to similarity of outputthroughout the country. As the knowledgeof materials and processes increases theinevitable result will be that brewing,hitherto generally regarded as an art, will
progressively become a chemical engineeringproposition.