hong kong tatler & james suckling’s guide to · edipresse hong kong ltd 6/f, guardian house,...

HONG KONG TATLER & JAMES SUCKLING’S GUIDE TO

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Instead of storing Bordeaux wine for 30 years, why not buy 30 year old Bordeaux wine today?

Contact us for a list of our fine [email protected]

2802-2818 (Chris)

"A perfect wine today is better than any wine tomorrow." - Anon

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editor’s noteHong Kong Tatler’s wine editor James Suckling explains why Hong Kong is the perfect place for a Bordeaux-wine event

publisher’s noteA warm welcome to Great Wines of Bordeaux from our chairman and CEO

so many bottles, so little timeWith great vintages in 2009 and 2010, there’s rarely been such a drinker’s market for fine Bordeaux

top 100 2010 bordeaux notesThe finest individual bottles from the stellar vintage, all of them scoring 94 points or above

top 25 2012 en primeur notesThe top wines to watch from last year; still in barrel, these are the stars of the future

white labelsBordeaux doesn’t just make great reds and sweet wines; its dry whites also have plenty to offer

great wines of bordeauxOur unique Bordeaux-wine event features hundreds of vintages from 45 revered wineries

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editor James Suckling

project editor Richard Lord regional features editor Sheena Liang contributors Rosanne Quagliata, Krystal Schwegel, Ivona Grgan

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managing director - international sales Tamara Lamunière

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editor’s note

JAMES SUCKLINGEDITOR

I WOULD LIKE TO WELCOME YOU, ALONG WITH Hong Kong Tatler, to the Great Wines of Bordeaux event. There’s no better city to hold this gathering than Hong Kong: few places are as dynamic where fine wine is concerned.

The good news is that you don’t have to spend a fortune any more to find a beautiful bottle of Bordeaux. I personally selected all the wines served at the Great Wines of Bordeaux event, and rated them all 90 points or more in tastings. I tried to select wines that were drinking well now and sell for HK$2,500 or less a bottle. Most are available from Hong Kong wine merchants, but some may need to be ordered specially.

This guide includes current buying advice and information on the best of Bordeaux; short evaluations about the wine estates participating in the event and the wines served during the two days, with ratings out of 100; and a list of wines poured, ordered by winery name, vintage and score.

I hope you enjoy the event, and that it helps you to discover, or redis-cover, what makes Bordeaux so special.

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publisher’s note

H O N G KO N G TAT L E R I S D E L I GH T E D T O extend a warm welcome to everyone attending the Great Wines of Bordeaux extravaganza, a chance to discover some of the greatest wines you might not be familiar with,

as well as plenty of old favourites.

We are thrilled to have so many representatives from the great estates of the world’s most renowned wine region here with us. During the event we encourage everyone not only to sample the wines, but also to meet the individual winemakers who have travelled all the way from France to be with us.

Having personally tasted many of these superb vintages from some of the world’s greatest winemaking names, I am confident that you will enjoy them as much as I have.

More information about Great Wines of Bordeaux is available at the Hong Kong Tatler enquiry desk, at hongkongtatler.com and by emailing [email protected].

BARRIE C GOODRIDGE EDIPRESSE ASIA

CHAIRMAN & CEO – ASIA & REGIONAL GROUP PUBLISHER

Wines of Bordeaux extravaganza, a chance to discoversome of the greatest wines you might not be familiar with,

as well as plenty of old favourites.

We are thrilled to oo hahahave so manyyy rrrepepeprrresentativvveseses fffrror m the great estates of WWthe world’s most renowned wiwiwine rrregegegioioionnn heh re with us. During the eveventwe encourage everyone e e nononot ononlylyly ttto o o sas mple the wines, but alsosoo tttoo memem etete the individududuala winnnemememakakakers ss whwhwho o hahavev travelllededed aaalllll ttthehe wwayay ffrororom m m FrFF ancecece to be with us.

Having personallyly tasteeeddd many oooff f thththesesese e e sssuperb vintages from some of the world’s greatest wwwinininemememaking nanaamememes,s,s, I am confident that you will enjoythem as much as s I haava e.

More information abababout GrGrGreaeaeat t t WWWines of Bordeaux is available at the Hong Kong TaTaTatlerr enqnqnquiry dddesesesk,kk at hongkongtatler.com and by emailing renquiry@grgg eatwinininesesesbordeaeaauxuxux.c.com.

BARRRRIEIEIE C CC GOOGOOO DRDRDRIIIDGE EDIEDIEDIPPPRERERESSSEEE ASIA

CHAIRMAN & CCCEO – ASIA & && REREEGGGIOIOIONALNAA GROOUP PUP PUBLISHER

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WITH THE RECENT PAIR OF STELLAR VINTAGES, IT’S THE PERFECT TIME TO BUY

BORDEAUX FOR DRINKING

A GOOD PART OF THE

past month in the world

of fine wine has been

spent discussing the mer-

its of the newest Bordeaux vintage on

the market: 2012. It’s a surprisingly

good-quality year for the top names

of France’s premier wine region,

despite the difficult grape-growing

season. However, the wines are sold

en primeur, or as futures, and they

won’t be available in bottle for at least

another two years.

It’s hard for most people, especially in

Asia, to justify buying wines that are

still ageing in barrel. They prefer to

buy physical bottles that are excellent

to drink now, or will be in the future.

And there’s often an investment

perspective to their wine purchases.

Besides, it’s a buyer’s market for the best

Bordeaux at the moment. Prices have

dropped over the past 18 months for

the region’s top names, especially young

and highly rated vintages, and they have

still not stabilised. Older vintages are

often less expensive than newer ones.

More than just a buyer’s market, this

makes it also a drinker’s market. Rather

than investing, I believe it’s better

to put your money into excellent

vintages for drinking now, because so

much outstanding to superb Bordeaux

is selling in bottle that it’s almost

overwhelming. And it’s not just the reds.

so many bottles, so little time

7


Just thinking about the plentitude of wonderful Bordeaux available today is

breathtaking. Enjoy it to the fullest.

Top whites – dry and sweet – are also

out there in quantity for drinking.

The most recent vintages available in

bottle for all colours and styles are an

amazing pair: 2009 and 2010. Bordeaux

has not produced back-to-back great

vintages since 1989 and 1990, but the

new pair are more like the legendary

years, such as 1928 and 1929. These are

two vintages not to miss – and it’s hard

to choose between them.

I’ve written before that deciding

between 2009 or 2010 is a great

problem to have for anyone who loves

great Bordeaux: whatever you prefer,

you can’t lose. There are outstanding

wines across the board in both vintages

from the greatest châteaux to the

simplest vineyard – the sign of a great

vintage for me.

Plenty of other great vintages are

available, including 1982, 1989, 1990,

1995, 2000 and 2005. The first of

these remains the most popular great

Bordeaux vintage in Asia, but the wines

are more and more difficult to find. The

question now is whether the market

will replace 1982 with 1989, 1990 or

1995, or go straight to 2000.

Besides all the great vintages from

Bordeaux for the taking, a range of

outstanding to very good years is also

available, in particular 2001, 2003, 2004,

2006 and 2007. Bordeaux from these

vintages are all, for the most part, ready

to drink. And this is where the best value

and most pleasure can be found.

Take, for example Château Ducru-

Beaucaillou, the famous super second

growth. The 2010 is now trading in

Hong Kong for about US$240 a bottle,

while the 2006 is US$130. Granted, the

2010 is a perfect wine – I rated it 100

points – but the 2006 is superb quality

(95 points) and it is just now ready to

drink. The 2010 will take another 10 to

15 years to be really drinkable.

The great 2000 Château Lynch-Bages

(95 points) is US$280 from a number

of Hong Kong merchants, while the

excellent 2004 (92 points) is US$130.

The 2010 Château Montrose (100

points) is US$300 but the 2004 (93

points) is US$90. I drink the 2004

Montrose regularly and it’s delicious.

Then there are lesser-known wines such

as the Médoc’s Château Cantemerle,

which regularly sells at reasonable prices,

even in exceptional years; the 93-point

2005 can be found in Hong Kong for

about US$40 a bottle. And don’t forgot

wines from less popular appellations:

the 2008 Château Gigault Cuvée Viva

8


(90 points), from the appellation of

Premières Côtes de Blaye, sells in Hong

Kong for about US$22 a bottle.

The second wines of top estates, such

as first and second growths, and rare

Right Bank names (Pomerols and Saint-

Émilions), are also readily available –

and in outstanding years, they shouldn’t

be missed. For instance, the second

wine of Château Mouton Rothschild, Le

Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild, is

a fraction of the price of the grand vin.

A bottle of 2009 Le Petit (94 points)

is about US$170 in Hong Kong, while

the Mouton (98 points) from the same

vintage is as much as US$1,100 a bottle.

Don’t forget Bordeaux whites. The

best dry whites – predominately from

Pessac-Léognan – have had a string of

superb vintages; I am a big fan of 2011

in particular. And the Sauternes are

some of the greatest sweet wines in the

world: I have a preference for 2001,

2003, 2005 and 2009.

Just thinking about the plentitude of

wonderful Bordeaux available today

is breathtaking. Enjoy it to the fullest.

AT

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Charente -Mari t im

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Gar

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Landes

Dordogne

G i ronde

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BassinD’archon

Lac de Lacanau

GARONNE

Lac d'Hourtin

et de Carcans

Lesparre-Médoc

Blaye

Paris

Langon

Creon

Libourne

BORDEAUX

BORDEAUX

MédocSaint-Estèphe

PauillacSaint-Julien

Haut-Médoc

Listrac-MédocMoulis

Margaux

Haut-Médoc

Pessac-Léognan

Premières Côtes de Bordeaux

Graves Graves Supérieures

Cérons

Cadillac – Côtes de BordeauxCôtes de Bordeaux

Graves-de-Vayres

Loupiac

BarsacSauternes

Sainte-Croix-du-Mont

Bordeaux et Bordeaux Supérieur

Côtes de BordeauxSaint Macaire

Bordeaux-Haut-BenaugeEntre-deux-Mers-Haut-Benauge

Entre-Deux-MersBordeaux et

Bordeaux Supérieur

Sainte-Foy-BordeauxBordeaux et

Bordeaux Supérieur

Saint-Émilion

Castillon – Côtes de Bordeaux

Puisseguin Saint-Émilion

Saint Georges Saint-Émilion

Bordeaux Francs – Côtes de Bordeaux

Montagne-Saint-Émilion

Lussac Saint-Émilion

Bordeaux etBordeaux Supérieur

Pomerol

Lalande de Pomerol

CanonFronsac

Côtes de BourgBourg

BlayeBlaye-Côtes de Bordeaux

Côtes de Blaye

Fronsac

DORGOGNE

DORGOGNE

9


TOP 100

2010BORDEAUX

WINE NOTES

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100 POINTS

“Aromas of flowers turn to dark berries. It’s full-bodied with velvety tannins.”

CHÂTEAU LATOUR PAUILLAC 2010

CHÂTEAU CHEVAL BLANC SAINT-ÉMILION 2010

The aroma of this wine is crazy with flowers, mushrooms, forest floor and fruit. It’s full-bodied, with fabulous layers of ultra-fine tannins, milk chocolate and raspberries, along with a phenomenal finish. Try in 2020.

CHÂTEAU DUCRU- BEAUCAILLOU SAINT-JULIEN 2010

Phenomenal nose with currant bush, blackberries and min-erals. The palate is perfect with a full body and integrated tannins for a texture like the finest cashmere. Strong but noble with perfect form and beauty. Better in 2020.

CHÂTEAU LA MISSION HAUT-BRION PESSAC- LÉOGNAN 2010

Crazy, unique nose with iodine, stones and currant aromas with wet earth and mushroom. Full-bodied, with an amaz-ing, solid palate of firm yet polished tannins. So dense and gorgeous; really stunning. Try in 2020.

CHÂTEAU LAFLEUR POMEROL 2010

Beautiful, ripe aromas of blackberries, orange peel, hazel-nuts and tropical fruits. It’s full-bodied, with a superb tex-ture of polished, velvety tannins. Lasts for minutes. Muscu-lar yet elegant. What gorgeous tone this has. Try in 2020.

CHÂTEAU LATOUR PAUILLAC 2010

Aromas of flowers turn to dark berries. It’s full-bodied with velvety tannins. Dense and intense with a chocolate, berry and currant character. This is juicy and rich with wood still showing a bit. Muscular yet toned. Try in 2022.

CHÂTEAU LE PIN POMEROL 2010

Dreamlike nose with blackberries, graphite and smoky notes. Licorice, vanilla and red fruit. Full and intensely fruity palate with dark berries. Complex, dense and deeply structured with polished tannins and a great, long finish. Amazing balance. Drink from 2018.

CHÂTEAU MARGAUX MARGAUX 2010

Spellbinding aromas, like a bouquet of pink roses that turns to currants, berries and citrus. Full body with wonderfully refined tannins. It starts discreetly then grows to different levels and dimensions. Beautiful texture. Try in 2020.

CHÂTEAU MOUTON ROTHSCHILD PAUILLAC 2010

Pure cabernet sauvignon magic with incredible aromas of currants, blackberries and light spices. Tiny hints of ha-zelnut. Wet earth. Full body, with super-velvety tannins. Breathtaking purity of fruit. It goes on for minutes. Try after 2020.

TOP 100 2010 BORDEAUX WINE NOTES

11

100 POINTS


99 POINTS

“Phenomenal density and richness with crème brûlée, apple pie and pear tart character.”

DOMAINE DE CHEVALIER PESSAC-LÉOGNAN WHITE 2010

CHÂTEAU ANGELUS SAINT-ÉMILION 2010

Impressively rich nose showing opulence and sexiness with earth, berry, spice and chocolate character. Black truffles. Full body with seamless tannins and beautiful richness. Goes on for minutes. Phenomenal layers of fruit and ripe tannins. Try in 2018.

CHÂTEAU HAUT-BRION PESSAC-LÉOGNAN WHITE 2010

Very impressive, with cream, honey, mangoes and a depth of minerals. Full-bodied and round with pretty fruit. Very juicy and soft, with contrasts of tropical fruits and citrus. Bright and intense acidity, but all in harmony. Try in 2016.

CHÂTEAU LAFITE ROTHSCHILD PAUILLAC 2010

Shy and not giving its all now, yet full and intense with a tightly intertwined tannic and fruit structure. Ethereal blackberry, currant, cedar and nutty flavors. Dried flowers too. Great finish. Long and harmonious. Try in 2018.

CHÂTEAU LÉOVILLE-LAS CASES SAINT-JULIEN 2010

Beautiful purity of raspberries, blueberries, currants and flower aromas. Full body with super-integrated, silky tan-nins. Elegant, pretty fruit with reserve and finesse. The bright, strong acidity gives a crunchy, creamy texture. Give it six to eight years.


Phenomenal density and richness with crème brûlée, apple pie and pear tart character. It’s so agile and balanced. Full body with tangy fruit and a long finish. Crazy intensity and style. Speechless. Try in 2018.

CHÂTEAU PETRUS POMEROL 2010

Extraordinary balance and depth. Such an elegant nose, with the complexity of black olives, dark fruits and flow-ers. Full, ultra-velvety palate with cashmere-like texture. It takes your breath away. There’s almost a Burgundian qual-ity in the mouthfeel. Try after 2018.

CHÂTEAU PONTET-CANET PAUILLAC 2010

Incredible aromas with blueberry, minerals, dried flowers and stones, turning to dried meat and spices. Full body and incredibly integrated with blackberry, licorice and miner-als. Wonderful purity. It goes on for minutes. Seamless, with amazing tannin quality. Try after 2018.

VIEUX CHÂTEAU CERTAN POMEROL 2010

Perfect purity of fruit, with gorgeous aromas of blackber-ries, currants and cedar, along with chocolate hints. Full body, lovely sweetness of fruit and ripe tannins. Turns to chocolate, hazelnut and spices. Sexy and incredible. So much depth of fruit and density. Better in 2020.


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100-99 POINTS


98 POINTS

“Phenomenal nose with blackberries, fresh cep mushrooms, forest fruit and earth.

Turns to hazelnuts and dark berries.”CHÂTEAU FIGEAC SAINT-ÉMILION 2010

CHÂTEAU AUSONE SAINT-ÉMILION 2010

Deep, almost endless nose with dried strawberries, blueber-ries and incense. Citrus and some prunes. Full body, with chewy, polished tannins and tension. Beautiful focus and balance with a richness and delicacy. Purity of fruit is al-most Burgundian. Try in 2020.

CHÂTEAU FIGEAC SAINT-ÉMILION 2010

Phenomenal nose with blackberries, fresh cep mushrooms, forest fruit and earth. Turns to hazelnuts and dark berries. Breathtaking. Full-bodied palate with superb tannins that last for minutes. Subtle, incredible flavour. Love the tex-ture. Fabulous now, but better in 2018.

CHÂTEAU HAUT-BAILLY PESSAC-LÉOGNAN 2010

Very, very fresh and floral with peaches, ripe strawberries and plums. So aromatic and clear. Full body, with power-ful tannins and a cocoa/chocolate aftertaste. Gorgeous and sturdy. Needs time. Better after 2016.

CHÂTEAU L’EGLISE CLINET POMEROL 2010

Sweet berries with incense, spices and black truffles on the nose. Very ripe but not over the top. Full-bodied with chewy tannins and undertones of smoky wood and mush-room. Dense, impressive and very balanced. Give it five or six years to soften.

CHÂTEAU LA CONSEILLANTE POMEROL 2010

Beautiful nose with cocoa powder, exotic flowers, candied violets and dark berries. Great aromatic complexity. Amaz-ing palate texture with superb precision and silky tannins. Beautifully composed, showing great harmony. Difficult to wait, but better in 2018.

CHÂTEAU LA FLEUR-PÉTRUS POMEROL 2010

Fresh and clean with hazelnut, chocolate and berry. Truf-fles too. Full body, with silky tannins and a tangy finish. I like the balance and finesse. So refined and beautiful. Bet-ter in 2017.

CHÂTEAU LYNCH-BAGES PAUILLAC 2010

Great beauty and finesse. Such elegance and ethereal qual-ity for this estate. Full body, with ultra-fine tannins and a juicy, delicious finish. Long and beautiful. I love the preci-sion. Try in 2018.

CHÂTEAU PALMER MARGAUX 2010

Purity of fruit with plum and dark chocolate undertones. Spices and treacle tart. Full body, with ultra-fine tannins and a long, long finish. Very fine. Fit, fruity and reserved. Superb. Try in 2020.


13

98 POINTS


97 POINTS

“Impressive purity of botrytis with dried fruits followed by spice.”

CHÂTEAU D’YQUEM SAUTERNES 2010

CHÂTEAU CLINET POMEROL 2010

Gorgeous nose with dark fruits such as plum and blueber-ries. Crushed pepper and chalk with wild strawberries and vanilla. Dense and velvety on the palate with superbly pol-ished tannins. Gorgeous now but needs five to six years.

CHÂTEAU COS D’ESTOURNEL SAINT- ESTÈPHE 2010

Lifted, intense nose of dried flowers, walnuts and dark fruits. Full-bodied, with powerful flavours of blackberries, coffee, dried herbs and spices. Super-silky tannins and a long, long finish. Layered and flashy. Try in 2018.

CHÂTEAU D’YQUEM SAUTERNES 2010

Impressive purity of botrytis with dried fruits followed by spice. Full body and very sweet but incredibly fresh and lively. Perfectly manicured wine with class and elegance. Shows a spellbinding delicacy and intensity. Drink in 2018.

CHÂTEAU HAUT-BRION PESSAC-LÉOGNAN 2010

Very spicy with dried mushroom aromas, dark fruits and plum undertones. Sweet tobacco too. This is full-bodied, with lots of chewy, firm tannins. Muscular for Haut-Brion and flexing it. Try in 2020.

CHÂTEAU LÉOVILLE BARTON SAINT-JULIEN 2010

Aromas of pure blackberries and violets follow through to a full body, with super-velvety tannins and a delicious bal-ance of sweet fruit, light vanilla and nuts. Really savoury and beautiful. Superb wine. Try in 2018.

CHÂTEAU MONTROSE SAINT-ESTÈPHE 2010

Perfumed and pure with currants, berries and spices that evolve to chocolate and light coffee. Full body, super-racy tannins and a bright, clean finish. Very fine, structured and balanced. Fresh with beautiful form and tension. Try in 2018.

CHÂTEAU SMITH HAUT LAFITTE PESSAC-LÉOGNAN WHITE 2010

Wonderfully complex nose of ripe lemon, green papaya, lime peel and peach. Full and focused with a beautiful, ripe acidity and silky texture on the palate. Long, precise finish with flowers and minerals. Drink or hold.

D ESTOURNEL SAINTESTÈPHE 2010

fruits. Full-bodied, with powerful flavours of blackberries,coffee, dried herbs and spices. Super-silky tannins and a long, long finish. Layered and flashy. Try in 2018.

CHÂTEAU DD’YQUEQUEMMYYSAUTERERNENESS 2010

Immmprprpreese iisive purity ofofof bbbotrytiss with dried fruits followed byspice. Full body andd vvvererery y y swswsweet but incredibly fresh and lively. Perfectly manicured d wiwiwinene with class ananand elegance.Shows a spellbini ding delicacy andd d iiintetetensn ity. Drink in 2018.

CHÂCH TEATEAU HAUTT-BR-BRIONION PEESSSSAACCAA -LÉÉOGNOGNANAN 2010 00

Very sspipipicyyy with drdrdrieieied d muushshhroroomomom aromamamas, dark fruits and plplplumumum undnddertotoonenes. SSSweeweetet ttobbacaccococo tttoooo . ThThThisi is full-bodied, wiwiwiththh lllooto s of chewyy, firfirfi mm tatatannnnninininss.s. MMMusususcucuculaar r fofofor Haut-Brion and flexing it. Try iin 20020.

CHÂC TEAT U LÉOVIO LLE BARBA TON SASAINT-JULIEN 2010

Aromas of pure blackberries annd viviviolololetetets s fofofollllllowowow thrhrhrououghghgh toa full body, with super-velvety tannins anand d d aaa dded licioouo s s bbab l-ance of sweet fruit, light vanilla and nnnututs.ss. RRReeaealll y yy sasasavovovouuru yand beautiful. Superb wine. Try in 200018188.

CHÂTEAU MONTROSE SAINT-ESTÈPHE 2010

Perfumed and pure with currants, bbbererrrrir es aannnd sssppicess s thhatatt evolve to chocolate and light coffeeee.. FuFulllll bboodody, supu er-raaacytannins and a bright, clean finish. VVVerery y finfine, ssstructured annnd ddbalanced. Fresh with beautiful form annnd d tetensssioioion. TTTry in 20202018181 .

CHÂCH TEAU SMITH HAUT LAFLAFITTTE PESSACAA -LÉOGNANWHIWHITET 2010

Wonderfully complex nose of ripe lllememe ono , grg een n pppapaya,lime peel and peach. Full and focusesesed d d wiwiw thth aaa bbeaaautututififul, ripe acidity and silky texture onn ttheh pppalalalatate.ee. LLLononong,g, ppprer cise finish with flowers and mineraalslsls. DrDrDrininink k ororr hhholold.d.d.

CHÂTEAU RAUZAN-SÉGLA MARGAUX 2010

Beautiful clarity of fruit with raspberries and currant aro-mas. Roses and other flowers too. There’s a real purity. Full body, with fabulous balance and depth. Everything’s in the right place. Try in 2018.

CHÂTEAU TROTANOY POMEROL 2010

Stunning nose with wild strawberries, vanilla and rasp-berries. Opens up to sweet licorice, blueberries and some graphite. Round and full on the palate with amazing fruit and refined tannins. Truly superb. Try from 2016.


14

98-97 POINTS


CHÂTEAU CALON-SÉGUR SAINT-ESTÈPHE 2010

Pure fruit with minerality and a floral undertone. Full body and a beautiful depth of fruit with velvety tannins. Dense and balanced. Layered with a lightly salty, meaty character. Great length. Try in 2017.

CHÂTEAU CANON SAINT-ÉMILION 2010

Wonderful nose with strawberries, cherry blossom and va-nilla opening to blueberries, milk chocolate and sweet lico-rice. Full and juicy palate with pure dark fruit and velvety tannins. So nicely layered, superb texture and a long finish. Drink from 2018.

CHÂTEAU CLIMENS BARSAC 2010

Attractive nose with hazelnuts, vanilla and apricot. Dense and sweet on the palate with bright acidity and wonderful purity of fruit. Soft, well-balanced and a very elegant, long finish with intense botrytis spice. Medium sweetness. Bet-ter in 2016.

CHÂTEAU FEYTIT-CLINET POMEROL 2010

Beautiful balance of blackberries, dark chocolate and flow-ers. Full body, with very refined tannins and a glorious fin-ish. Speechless. Best wine ever from here. Better after 2017.

CHÂTEAU GRUAUD-LAROSE SAINT-JULIEN 2010

Ripe raspberries and blueberries with hints of fresh flowers. Deep nose of dark fruits. Full body with silky tannins and a beautifully integrated tannin structure. It’s long and very refined. Try in 2018.

CHÂTEAU GUIRAUD SAUTERNES 2010

Ripe lemon peel and orange. Some honey and vanilla with loads of new wood. Dense and very sweet on the palate with nice pure fruit and firm tannins. Shows excellent po-tential, but needs time. Try in 2018.

CHÂTEAU HOSANNA POMEROL 2010

Beautiful nose with ripe strawberries, red apple, vanilla and floral notes. Sumptuous red fruit and juicy acidity on the palate with finely knit tannins. Full-bodied with a silky tex-ture and good length. Better in 2017.

CHÂTEAU L’ÉVANGILE POMEROL 2010

Extremely complex with black olives, violets and brown sugar. Superb nose. Full body with an impressive density and richness. Stunning tannin quality, giving a wonderful texture. Fresh and bright. Such length. Try in 2017.

CHÂTEAU LA MISSION HAUT-BRION PESSAC- LÉOGNAN WHITE 2010

Really intense with mango, pineapple and lemon character. It’s full and very lively with wonderful depth of fruit and length. Fresh and bright with tangy acidity and a brilliance at the end. Better after 2016.

96 POINTS

“Extremely complex with black olives, violets and brown sugar. Superb nose.”

CHÂTEAU L’ÉVANGILE POMEROL 2010


15

96 POINTS


96 POINTS

CHÂTEAU LATOUR À POMEROL POMEROL 2010

Gorgeous nose with strawberries, toasted hazelnuts and milk chocolate. Full body with a structure that keeps adding layers of fruit and minerals. Very silky tannins and a won-derful, intense finish. Great harmony. Drink from 2017.

CHÂTEAU NENIN POMEROL 2010

Amazing complexity and beauty with plums, tangerines and walnuts. Full body and extremely silky, textured tan-nins with gorgeous balance and beauty. Goes on for min-utes. Superb wine. Best Nenin since the 1950s. Try in 2018.

CHÂTEAU PAPE CLÉMENT PESSAC-LÉOGNAN 2010

Intense blueberry nose with great precision and expression. Full and vibrant on the palate with a minty note. Vanilla. Wonderful structure. Firm but ripe tannins and very long. Needs time to soften. Great potential. Try in 2016.

CLOS DU MARQUIS SAINT-JULIEN 2010

This shows beautiful aromas of flowers, raspberries and blackberries that follow through to a full body with ultra-silky tannins and a long, long finish. It lasts for minutes. Best in 2018 or later.

DOMAINE DE CHEVALIER PESSAC-LÉOGNAN 2010

Dark fruits such as raspberries and blueberries with subtle perfume on the nose. Full body with super-well-integrated tannins and a fresh, clean finish. Racy young wine. Shows classy structure and richness. Try in 2018.

LA CHAPELLE DE LA MISSION HAUT-BRION PESSAC-LÉOGNAN 2010

Fabulous nose of spice, mushrooms, blueberries and black-berries follows through to a full body, with firm, silky tan-nins. This is so savoury and beautiful. Best second wine ever from La Mission. Give it until 2018 to open.

LA MONDOTTE SAINT-ÉMILION 2010

Gorgeous nose with great aromas such as chocolate, black-berries and licorice. Full, concentrated palate with super-silky tannins and beautiful dark fruit. Lots of new wood in the finish that needs to integrate. Drink from 2017.

LE PETIT MOUTON DE MOUTON ROTHSCHILD PAUILLAC 2010

Truly superb with blackberries and currants on the nose. Full body with super-velvety tannins. The length is so won-derful and delicious. Dense yet super-balanced. Hard not to drink now. Better in 2018.

LES FORTS DE LATOUR PAUILLAC 2010

Aromas of currants, blueberries and blackberries with a dark-chocolate undertone. Perfumes are beautiful. Full body with velvety tannins that are fine tuned and tenta-tive. It lasts for minutes. Gorgeous fruit and richness. Try in 2018.

LIBER PATER GRAVES WHITE 2010

Wonderful richness and depth of fruit. Full body with a very dense palate of dried pineapple and mangoes. Hints of cream and toasted oak. Oily. This is almost all sémillon from 80-year-old ungrafted vines. Tiny production. Drink or hold.


16


96-95 POINTS

CARRUADES DE LAFITE ROTHSCHILD PAUILLAC 2010

This smells like a bouquet of flowers with blueberries, cur-rants and spices. Full body yet agile and refined. So fine and pretty. It’s balanced and in harmony. Savoury. A smoky, decadent, meaty undertone. Try in 2016.

CHÂTEAU BEAU-SÉJOUR BÉCOT SAINT-ÉMILION 2010

Wonderful nose with dark chocolate, plums and some coffee. Opens up with orange peel, leather and vanilla. Full and round on the palate with beautiful fruit and sweet, polished tannins. Long and gorgeous with smooth texture. Drink from 2017.

CHÂTEAU BÉLAIR-MONANGE SAINT-ÉMILION 2010

Aromas of berries, chilli and a hint of toasted oak. Full body with velvety tannins and a long, long finish. Juicy and beauti-ful. Really builds on the palate. Super quality. Try in 2018.

CHÂTEAU BEYCHEVELLE SAINT-JULIEN 2010

Beautiful aromas of blackberries, currants and flowers. Very aromatic. Full body with ultra-fine tannins and gor-geous fruit. It’s polished and very refined. One of the best Beychevelles in years. Try in 2018.

CHÂTEAU CERTAN DE MAY POMEROL 2010

Beautiful dense nose with polished dark fruit, leather and wet forest floor. Coffee, sweet tobacco and Seville orange. Full-bodied and intense palate with polished tannins and deep, layered texture. Give it four or five years. So gor-geous already.

CHÂTEAU DOISY-DAËNE BARSAC 2010

Elegant nose with white peach, strawberry and vanilla. Medi-um-sweet palate with pure fruit and fine texture. Super-charm-ing and well balanced. Very spicy finish, showing wonderful botrytis intensity. Drink now or hold.

CHÂTEAU FAUGÈRES SAINT-ÉMILION 2010

Very fruity, rich wine with dried strawberries and black-berries. Full body with an opulent palate of ripe fruit and toasted oak, yet racy, fresh and refined, with a beautiful bal-ance. Try after 2018.

95 POINTS

“Cool purple fruit at first with plums, coffee and red peppercorns.”

CHÂTEAU LE BON PASTEUR POMEROL 2010

PAVILLON ROUGE DU CHÂTEAU MARGAUX MARGAUX 2010

Aromas of flowers, smoke, currants and raspberries follow through to a full body, with super-silky tannins and a long, long finish. Balanced and refined with wonderful depth. Hard to believe it’s a second wine. Better after 2018.

PENSÉES DE LAFLEUR POMEROL 2010

Such gorgeous aromas of cocoa powder, red fruits and ber-ries. Full body with pretty, silky tannins and an amazing savoury, juicy, delicious finish. It makes you want to drink. Superb balance and intensity. So approachable yet structured.


17


95 POINTS

CHÂTEAU GAZIN POMEROL 2010

A subtle red with ultra-fine tannins that accentuate a pal-ate of chocolate, berries and nuts. Full and very round. It’s refined and beautiful. Hard not to drink now, but wait at least five years. Top wine from Gazin.

CHÂTEAU GISCOURS MARGAUX 2010

Aromas of mint and currants with hints of fresh herbs. Then turns to plum jam. Full body with well-integrated tannins and pretty fruit. Long and caressing. This is really outstanding. Better in 2017.

CHÂTEAU GRAND-PUY-LACOSTE PAUILLAC 2010

Intense hazelnuts and blackberries on the nose follow through to a full-to-medium body, with chocolate and ber-ry flavours and firm tannins. Not giving away much at the finish yet. Reserved and sophisticated but structured and chewy. Try in 2017.

CHÂTEAU LAGRANGE SAINT-JULIEN 2010

Great nose of blueberries, spices and hints of walnuts. Full body with lovely, well-integrated tannins and a long, long finish. This is structured yet all in finesse. Best in years. Try in 2018.

CHÂTEAU LARMANDE SAINT-ÉMILION 2010

Attractive nose with animal notes, mint and dark fruit. Wonderful freshness on the palate that builds up with a huge structure and multilayered texture. Long and very classy. Great potential but needs to soften. Try after 2016.

CHÂTEAU LE BON PASTEUR POMEROL 2010

Cool purple fruit at first with plums, coffee and red pepper-corns. Very elegant on the palate, opening up with a great texture and finesse. Deep and profound yet still so harmoni-ous. Hazelnut and chocolate. It comes together beautifully.

CHÂTEAU LÉOVILLE POY-FERRÉ SAINT-JULIEN 2010

Wow. Very intense, aromatic nose with crushed currants and blueberries, along with hints of nuts and dried flowers. Full body with very refined tannins and a lovely undercur-rent of fruit. Balanced and juicy. Better in 2018.

CHÂTEAU LES ORMES- DE-PEZ SAINT-ESTÈPHE 2010

Wonderful aromas of currants and blackberries with hints of spices. Full body with fabulous tannins and a long, creamy-textured finish. I love the depth of fruit. Great value for the vintage. Try in 2017.

CHÂTEAU MALARTIC- LAGRAVIÈRE PESSAC- LEOGNAN 2010

Impressive nose with leather, dark, polished fruit and flow-ers. Wonderful mouthfeel with soft, silky tannins and beau-tiful texture. Really well put together. Powerful and rich with loads of fruit and ripe tannins. Very ripe. Try in 2016.

CHÂTEAU MALESCOT SAINT-EXUPÉRY MARGAUX 2010

Beautiful strawberry and chocolate with hints of pie crust. It’s full-bodied with super-integrated tannins and a long, long finish. Needs at least four to five years to come to-gether, but clearly outstanding.


18


95 POINTS

CHÂTEAU OLIVIER PESSAC-LÉOGNAN 2010

Pure, beautiful aromas of blueberries and dark chocolate that follow through to a full body, with fine tannins and a silky finish. Very fine indeed. Wonderful length to this. Best wines in years from here. Try in 2018.

CHÂTEAU PAVIE-MACQUIN SAINT-ÉMILION 2010

Gorgeous nose with great complexity. Blackberry, licorice and a steely mineral note with chalk, nutmeg and violet. Dense and full-bodied on the palate with beautiful fruit and a long, sumptuous finish. Velvety tannins and layered tex-ture. Drink from 2018.

CHÂTEAU PETIT-VILLAGE POMEROL 2010

Spicy nose with nutmeg, cedar and sweet tobacco. Blueber-ries and some milk chocolate. Pure dark fruit on the palate with a wonderful texture and quite deep structure. Ripe, polished tannins and a wonderfully focused, long finish. Drink from 2018.

CHÂTEAU PICHON LONGUEVILLE BARON PAUILLAC 2010

A dense, layered wine with lots of ripe, sweet fruit. Loads of currants, plums and tar. This is concentrated and almost jammy with velvety tannins. Powerful. Chewy. Try in 2020.

CHÂTEAU PROVIDENCE POMEROL 2010

Great nose with wild strawberries and raspberries. Some blue-berry and violets. Opens up with fresh leather and chocolate. Full-bodied and very well put together with super-silky tannins and a great vibrant finish. Difficult to wait, but try after 2018.

CHÂTEAU SMITH HAUT LAFITTE PESSAC-LÉOGNAN 2010

Aromas of blueberries, blackberries and plums follow through to a full body, with velvety tannins and a fruity fin-ish. Lots of mushroom and fruit undertones. Very polished. Such finesse yet structure to this young wine. Better in 2007.

CHÂTEAU SUDUIRAUT SAUTERNES 2010

Expressive, fruity nose with ripe orange, apricot and pine-apple. Elegant with wonderfully balanced sweetness on the palate. Good structure and length. Vibrant acidity and lots of spice in the finish. Excellent. Drink or hold.

CHÂTEAU TROTTEVIEILLE SAINT-ÉMILION 2010

This is full and rich with a pretty depth of fruit and a lovely vanilla and berry character. Turns silky yet very structured. Long and intense. Can’t make up my mind which is better, 2009 or 2010. Better after 2016.

CHÂTEAU VALANDRAUD SAINT-ÉMILION WHITE 2010

Really impressive with lemon peel, sliced apple, light tarte tatin and cream. Full, super-creamy texture. It’s rich but not intrusive. Just all beautiful. Top white Bordeaux with the depth of grand cru Burgundy. Drink or hold.

CHÂTEAU VALANDRAUD SAINT-ÉMILION 2010

Complex aromas of licorice, plums, incense and tar follow through to a full body with velvety tannins and an ultra-fine tannic finish. Hints of toasted oak and cedar with choco-late. Not quite the 2009 but close. Try in 2017.


19


95-94 POINTS

LE PETIT CHEVAL SAINT-ÉMILION 2010

Shows such glorious yet subtle fruit with chocolate, dark berries and a light spice character. Walnut undertone. It’s soft and silky with wonderful balance and beauty. It goes on for minutes. Hard not to drink now.

LIBER PATER GRAVES 2010

Intense aromas of blueberries, blackberries and Moroccan spices such as cardamom. Full body with super-integrated tannins and a long, long finish. A beautiful wine with super-fine tannins. Such harmony and balance. Better in 2016.

94 POINTS

“A layered, young red with lots of black olives and berries on the nose.”

CHÂTEAU BRANAIRE-DUCRU SAINT-JULIEN 2010

CHAPELLE D’AUSONE SAINT-ÉMILION 2010

An amazing depth of berries, orange blossom and minerals. Wet earth too. Full body with a super-velvety palate of pol-ished tannins. It’s deep and soulful. Goes for minutes. This is very structured and muscular. Try after 2018.

CHÂTEAU BRANAIRE-DUCRU SAINT-JULIEN 2010

A layered, young red with lots of black olives and berries on the nose. Full body with velvety and chewy tannins. It all comes together at the end with a lovely sweet fruit. Try after 2017.

CHÂTEAU BRANE-CANTENAC MARGAUX 2010

Pretty red fruits such as cherries with chewy tannins and fresh acidity. Toasted oak too. Needs time to come togeth-er. Dense and complete for this estate. Better than 2009. Better after 2016.

CHÂTEAU CANTENAC BROWN MARGAUX 2010

A wine with firm tannins that are polished and reserved yet there’s an underlying richness of fruit. Plums, blueberries and citrus character. Some tar too. Juicy and delicious. Try in 2016.

CHÂTEAU CLERC MILON PAUILLAC 2010

Gorgeous currants and spices with licorice on the nose. Full body with super-integrated tannins and a long, long finish. The texture and beautiful fruit want you to drink this, but give it time. Try in 2016.

CHÂTEAU D’ISSAN MARGAUX 2010

Gorgeous ripe fruit in this with plum, black cherries and spices on the nose and palate. Full body with soft tannins and a long, long finish. Very refined and focused. Best from here in decades. Try after 2018.

CHÂTEAU DASSAULT SAINT-ÉMILION 2010

Wonderful ripe fruit with raspberries, blackberries and some eucalyptus. Excellent density and structure on the palate with velvety tannins and good length. Amazing ber-ry fruit and dense, creamy, mineral notes. Beautiful now but will improve over the next four years.


20


94 POINTS

CHÂTEAU HAUT-BATAILLEY PAUILLAC 2010

This is firm and structured with blueberry and hazelnut character. Full body with fine tannins and a juicy finish. So long and pretty. Wonderful texture. Better after 2017.

CHÂTEAU HAUT-BRISSON SAINT-ÉMILION LA RESERVE 2010

Attractive nose of raspberries, red cherries, vanilla and some spicy nutmeg. Nice dense fruit on attack, turning silky and very refined. Nicely textured. Very rich and full of depth. Give it time. Subtle and sexy. Try in 2016.

CHÂTEAU LA DOMINIQUE SAINT-ÉMILION 2010

Polished, rich nose with dark, deep fruit and dense mineral-ity. Wonderful pure, ripe fruit on the palate with a long, layered texture and super-velvety tannins. Good to drink now, but tannins will soften over the next four years.

CHÂTEAU LA LOUVIÈRE PESSAC-LÉOGNAN WHITE 2010

Dense and structured with green apple and mango charac-ter throughout. Full body with lovely fruit and a layered finish of fruit and acidity. Best white from here in years. Serious stuff. Impressive now but better in 2015.

CHÂTEAU LARRIVET HAUT-BRION PESSAC-LÉOGNAN WHITE 2010

Wonderful spicy nose with white pepper, lime peel and lots of raspberry. Full and very precise palate with juicy, well-dosed acidity and great focus. Smooth texture with min-erals on white fruit and good length. Drink now or hold. Serious effort.

CHÂTEAU LASCOMBES MARGAUX 2010

What a wonderful nose of ripe strawberries and hints of vanilla. Full body with soft, velvety tannins and a long, long finish. This is luscious and sexy. Try in 2017.

CHÂTEAU LE GAY POMEROL 2010

Feminine, violet nose with beautiful polished purple fruit, vanilla and some Seville orange. Dense and full-bodied on the palate with dancing acidity and soft, fine tannins. So delicious. Very pleasant already now, but try after 2016.

CHÂTEAU MAGDELAINE SAINT-ÉMILION 2010

Attractive nose with fresh leather, plums and orange peel at first. Opens up with raspberries and vanilla. Wonderful, sumptuous fruit on the palate with a full body and good length. Smooth tannins and good complexity. Already very enjoyable.

CHÂTEAU PÉBY-FAUGÈRES SAINT-ÉMILION 2010

Dense with loads of ripe fruit and new wood on the nose. Full body with lots of rich, ripe fruit, yet it’s still fresh and delicious. Needs at least seven to eight years to come to-gether completely. Drink or hold.

CHÂTEAU PICHON LONGUEVILLE COMTESSE DE LALANDE PAUILLAC 2010

This is a pretty and refined Pichon Lalande. Aromas of blueberries and blackberries with hints of earth and mush-rooms. Full body with velvety tannins and a juicy finish. I slightly prefer the 2009. Better in 2017.


21


94 POINTS

TOP 25

2012EN PRIMEUR

NOTES


CHÂTEAU HAUT-BRION PESSAC-LÉOGNAN WHITE 2012

97-98

This is super-subtle and dense yet so complex and beautiful for the great white of Haut-Brion. It’s like a tightly wound ball of cashmere. The texture certainly is impressive. The aromas and flavours of dried fruits with papaya and passion fruit are rich yet very refined. A wine about precise contrasts.

CHÂTEAU PETRUS POMEROL 2012

97-98

This shows fabulous length with chocolate, berry and mineral undertones. Licorice and currants too. Full body yet refined with seamless tannins. Goes on for minutes. It shows such amazing length and elegance. Depth. Phenom-enal structure here, especially for the vintage. Reminds me of the 1998 or 1971, which were structured yet very fine.

CHÂTEAU LE PIN POMEROL 2012

96-97

This is phenomenal for the vintage. Aromas of roses, blue-berries and clay. Full and dense yet it finishes long and ag-ile. It goes on for minutes. Truly a great bottle here. It’s a 2001 in the making, which was better than 2000. This is 100 per cent merlot; normally there’s a tiny percentage of cabernet franc too. Only 500 cases.

CHÂTEAU HAUT-BRION PESSAC-LÉOGNAN 2012

95-96

This is fabulous for the vintage, with a super-long finish of ultra-fine tannins. Full and racy with a wonderful texture. This is the most merlot ever in Haut-Brion (65.5 per cent, with 32.5 per cent cabernet sauvignon and 2 per cent cab-ernet franc). Rich, too. One of the wines of the vintage.

CHÂTEAU LA MISSION HAUT-BRION PESSAC-LÉOGNAN WHITE 2012

95-96

Lots of mineral, oyster shell, apple pie and white pepper on the nose and palate. Full and rich yet very bright and fresh. Dried pear and apple undertones. Intense.

CHÂTEAU LAFLEUR POMEROL 2012

95-96

This is subtle yet so deep, with blackberry, wet earth and stone. It’s full-bodied, with super-fine tannins and wonder-ful length. Everything is at the end of the palate. This will be better than the 2011. It’s about clarity and harmony. The winemaker says a special lot of merlot picked on September 23 made it what it is. Stunning.

CHÂTEAU PALMER MARGAUX 2012

95-96

A wine with a vertical palate for the vintage. Deep and rich with polished tannins and beautiful fruit. Layered and very long. Blueberries, hazelnut, cedar and a mineral, creamy character. Fabulous for the vintage.

CHÂTEAU SMITH HAUT LAFITTE PESSAC-LÉOGNAN WHITE 2012

95-96

This is fabulous. It’s a white that is so vertical with won-derful depth of fruit and structure. It goes on for minutes. Dense and complex. It’s so structured and amazing. Peach-es and minerals with a salty, savoury character. It is capti-vating to taste now.

23


CHÂTEAU AUSONE SAINT-ÉMILION 2012

94-95

Wonderful aromas of blackberries and blueberries with flowers. Very cabernet franc. Full body with intense fruit, tannins and fresh acidity. Tangy and lively. Minerals with lemon and orange peel undertones. Super-lively. Texture is beautiful. Same blend as always: 55 per cent cabernet franc and 45 per cent merlot.

CHÂTEAU L’EGLISE CLINET POMEROL 2012

94-95

This really builds at the end of the palate, which clearly shows it’s top-notch. It’s full-bodied, and grows on the pal-ate ever so steadily. Lovely berry, chocolate and hazelnut character. Goes on for minutes. This has wonderful tannin tension for the vintage. Better than 2011.

CHÂTEAU L’EVANGILE POMEROL 2012

94-95

A wine with plenty of deep fruit, spices and hazelnut char-acter. Lovely fruit. Full-bodied with lovely silky tannins and a long, long finish. So much going on here. Elegance with strength and structure. It’s 93 per cent merlot and 7 per cent cabernet franc.

CHÂTEAU LÉOVILLE LAS CASES SAINT-JULIEN 2012

94-95

A structured and powerful Las Cases. It really grabs you and makes you take note, yet there is polish and refinement in the texture. Full body with intense tannins and a long, lively finish. The fruit-acid balance is very pretty.

CHÂTEAU MOUTON ROTHSCHILD PAUILLAC 2012

94-95

Wonderful beauty to this wine with currants, blackberries and flowers. Full body, with ultra-fine tannins and a long, long finish. Creamy texture with a mineral, almost salty undertone. It’s 90 per cent cabernet sauvignon, 8 per cent merlot and 2 per cent cabernet franc.

CHÂTEAU PAVIE SAINT- ÉMILION 2012

94-95

Lots of beautiful aromas of roses, dark fruits and dark chocolate. Full and chewy with beautiful, firm tannins that add to the long finish. Very intense. Very fine tannins. Very, very long. It’s 70 per cent merlot, 20 per cent cabernet franc and 10 per cent cabernet sauvignon.

CHÂTEAU PONTET-CANET PAUILLAC 2012

94-95

A wine that makes you want to drink it immediately. It’s stylish with berries, currants, cedar and stone aromas and flavours. Full body with very integrated tannins and a long, long finish. A small percentage of the wine is now aged in cement vats instead of oak barrels. This touches all the senses. A beauty. Made from biodynamic grapes.

CHÂTEAU SMITH HAUT LAFITTE PESSAC-LÉOGNAN 2012

94-95

The finish is gorgeous with a crunchy, fruity, earthy, hazel-nut character. Dense yet balanced with beautiful texture and length. Creamy tannins. It’s 55 per cent cabernet sau-vignon, 40 per cent merlot, 4 per cent cabernet franc and 1 per cent petit verdot.

24

TOP 25 2012 EN PREMIEUR NOTES


CHÂTEAU TROTANOY POMEROL 2012

94-95

Wow. This really builds on the palate. Starts off slowly but then gets more silky by the second. Full and juicy. Dark chocolate and nuts. Plenty of subtle fruit.


94-95

This is very tender and pretty with very fine elements. Dried lemons, minerals and lilac as well as character of oyster shell and iodine. Full body yet refined and long. You normally see this sort complex character in reds from Pessac-Léognan. Fascinating young white.

LA MONDOTTE SAINT- ÉMILION 2012

94-95

This is very intense with great depth of fruit and length. Full body with super-integrated tannins and a long, long finish. The minerality and citrus acidity give the wine won-derful tension and length.

PAVILLON BLANC DU CHÂTEAU MARGAUX MARGAUX 2012

94-95

A wine with fresh lemons and minerals and hints of chalk. Full body, with integrated acidity and fruit. Lovely length. Some may prefer this to the superb 2011 Pavillon Blanc.

BLANC DE LYNCH-BAGES BORDEAUX 2012

93-94

This is very lively and dense in the centre palate. Full body with a dried apple and pear character. Bright acidity. Cit-rusy. Long and brilliant. It’s 60 per cent sauvignon blanc, 27 per cent sémillon and 13 per cent muscadelle.

CHÂTEAU ANGELUS SAINT-ÉMILION 2012

93-94

This is powerful and rich with lots of blackberries and cher-ries. Loads of richness and intensity. We will see, but shows plenty of potential. Intense.

CHÂTEAU CHEVAL BLANC SAINT-ÉMILION 2012

93-94

This is really beautiful, with a blackberry, chocolate and light nut character. Full yet refined. Seamless tannins. It goes on for minutes. This is so elegant and beautiful. The tannins are just right and not overdone for the vintage.

CHÂTEAU FIGEAC SAINT-ÉMILION 2012

93-94

A wine with a mineral, blueberry and light clay character. Full body with round, velvety tannins and a long finish. Shows plenty of mineral, iron and spice character. Can’t make up my mind if I prefer 2011 or 2012; I tasted both this time.

CHÂTEAU HAUT-BAILLY PESSAC-LÉOGNAN 2012

93-94

A beautiful red with plums, chocolate and hints of licorice. Full body with super-polished tannins. Ripe fruit with for-est undergrowth, dark fruits and sweet tobacco. Goes on for minutes.

25


THE NAME BORDEAUX IS SYNONYMOUS WITH THE HIGHEST-QUALITY RED WINE – BUT, AS JAMES SUCKLING WRITES, THE REGION’S OFT-OVERLOOKED DRY WHITES HAVE A LOT GOING FOR THEM TOO

white labels

26

GWB wineguide - White Bordeaux.indd 26 14/05/2013 3:25 PM

EV E RYON E’ S A LWAYS

talking about red Bordeaux,

but the dry whites of

France’s premier wine

region can be among the most

compelling bottles produced

on Earth. What makes white

Bordeaux so attractive is its

richness and structure. Many

of the top names can age for

decades and take on the com-

plexity and intensity of the

best white Burgundies – even

the legendary Montrachet.

However, great dry white

Bordeaux is equally delicious

when young, with dense, rich palates

that deliver loads of apple, citrus and

tropical fruit character, as well as

vanilla and cream undertones.

There’s usually a bright, lively

acidity that gives form and preci-

sion to the wines. I like to decant

my white Bordeaux before

serving, which lets it breathe

and develop more aromas and

flavours before being poured

into the glass.

Most of the top whites come

from the region of Pessac-

Léognan, just outside the bor-

der of the city of Bordeaux. PH

OTO

: IM

AG

E F

OR

UM

; JA

ME

S O

RR

From top: The best whites come from the region of Pessac-Léognan; Château Carbonnieux is a wine that offers great value

27


The soils are deep loam with large

stones that help ensure good drain-

age for the vines. White grapes are

grown all over the area, even though

they only account for about 10 per

cent of the total production. However,

other appellations, from the Médoc to

simple Bordeaux, can make excellent

dry whites.

Most of the more popular dry whites

are made with a high percentage of

sauvignon blanc grapes, but the best

are usually a blend of sauvignon

blanc and sémillon. Some producers

may also use a small percentage of

muscadelle or sauvignon gris to add

Most of the more popular dry whites are made with a high percentage of sauvignon blanc grapes, but the best are usually a blend of sauvignon blanc and sémillon

28


to the complexity of the wine. The

majority of dry white Bordeaux is

made in a crisp, easy style for early

consumption, but the top examples

are made just like their counterparts

in Burgundy, with oak barrel fermen-

tation and ageing.

Many of the highly praised vintages

for dry white Bordeaux are “off-

vintages” for the region’s reds. It

makes sense, since these years usually

have cooler and less sunny growing

seasons, producing grapes higher in

acidity, something most people like

in white wines but not in serious

reds. I actually prefer great vintages

in Bordeaux, which can make both

amazing reds and dry whites.

The superb 2010 vintage, for exam-

ple, made great reds and whites – and

shouldn’t be missed. But lesser vintages

such as 2011 and 2012 made super dry

whites as well.

“We have been very lucky in recent

years with vintages for whites,” says

Olivier Bernard, the owner of one of

the best châteaux for whites, Domaine

de Chevalier. “It’s hard to decide which

is best: some people prefer 2011 for its

lively style, while others prefer the

more refined 2012. I like them both.”

From left: The legendary Château Haut-Brion is a wine worth buying en primeur; James Suckling at a white Bordeaux tasting

29


GWB_Tasting notes.indd 30 14/05/2013 3:58 PM

IN THIS SECTION, JAMES SUCKLING SHARES HIS

PERSONAL THOUGHTS ON SOME OF THE BEST VALUE

WINES AND CURRENT DRINKABLE VINTAGES FROM BORDEAUX. ALL WINES ARE FEATURED AT THE GREAT

WINES OF BORDEAUX EVENT, AND ALL ARE RATED 90

POINTS OR HIGHER


GRAND TASTING

Château Batailley Pauillac 1996 Now ready to drink with currants, berry and tobacco character. Medium body with fine tannins and a fresh finish. Delicious. (90 points)

Château Batailley Pauillac 2003 Big and round with a velvety texture and fruity, fresh character. Full and delicious now. Why wait? (92 points)

Château Batailley Pauillac 2005 Very muscular and powerful with lots of tannins now, but it will come around. Full body and dense. Leave this alone for three or four years. (91 points)

WINE COLLECTORS’ DINNER Château Batailley Pauillac 1996, Château Batailley Pauillac 2003

This is a beautiful château in

Pauillac that has long produced

wines of breeding and finesse and

that has always offered some of

the best value in the Médoc. Made

mostly of cabernet sauvignon,

the wines show a racy, fine tannin

backbone with subtle fruit – very

typical for the appellation. It’s from

the always-improving stable of

estates of négociant Borie-Manoux,

which includes such top names as

Saint-Émilion’s Trotte Vieille and

Pomerol’s Domaine de l’Eglise.

The head and one of the owners

of Borie-Manoux, Philippe Castéja,

is determined to make better and

better wines at Batailley and the

rest of his estates. Watch them in

the future.

www.batailley.com

CHÂTEAU BATAILLEY

32


GRAND TASTING

Château Brane-Cantenac Margaux 2000Very rich aromas of ripe strawberries, spices and flowers follow through to a full body with velvety tannins and an outstanding structure. It’s always a little austere. But so much there. Just coming around now. Delicious. (92 points)

Château Brane-Cantenac Margaux 2003This is jammy on the nose, with hints of new toasted oak. Full-bodied and generous, with lots of fruit and a soft, velvety palate. I like the style. Big and yummy now, but even better in three or four years. (92 points)

Château Brane-Cantenac Margaux 2006Fresh and clean with pretty berry and currant character. It’s full- to medium-bodied, with firm tannins and a clean, caressing finish. Drink now. (90 points)

WINE COLLECTORS’ DINNER

Château Brane-Cantenac Margaux 2000, Château Brane-Cantenac Margaux 2003

The wines of Brane-Cantenac are

rather shy in their infancy, show-

ing lots of subtle and intense

aromatic quality but less on the

palate. With a few years of bottle

age, they grow in personality and

richness to deliver a soulful glass

of red Bordeaux. Owner and win-

emaker Henri Lurton continues to

improve his wine, fine-tuning his

vineyards and his winery to make

the best possible wine each year

for his special terroir. Consistency

in quality is this beautiful Margaux

wine property’s byword.

www.brane-cantenac.com

CHÂTEAU BRANE-CANTENAC

33


GRAND TASTING Château Calon-Ségur Saint-Estèphe 2003This shows so wonderfully now with a dense palate yet a delicate chocolate, mineral and walnut skin. Full and velvety. Wonderful with juicy length and a long finish. Almost Burgundian in texture. (94 points)

Château Calon-Ségur Saint-Estèphe 2005A dense, structured red with beautiful aromas of chocolate, hazelnut, dried spices and currants. Full body with super-fine tannins and a tight finish. This is a wine that is just beginning to be drinkable but has a long, long life ahead of it. Taste now and dream of the future. Better in 2016. (93 points)

Château Calon-Ségur Saint-Estèphe 2006Aromas of perfumes and blueberries with minerals. Medium to full body, fine tannins and a tangy, fresh finish. Attractive tension and austerity to this. Savoury and juicy. Drink now or hold. (91 points)

WINE COLLECTORS’ DINNER Calon-Ségur Saint-Estèphe 2003, Calon-Ségur Saint-Estèphe 2006

This is a legendary wine estate in

the appellation of Saint-Estèphe

that made its reputation on great

vintages of the 1940s, but I believe

that its recent cabernet sauvignon-

based reds will rival those historical

legends in the bottle. The wines

are muscular and powerful when

young and show tight, toned tan-

nins with reserved fruit and spice

character. They are built for ageing.

The property was sold last year to

a French insurance group, and an

impressive team was quickly put in

charge. Stay tuned for most excel-

lent wines.

CHÂTEAU CALON-SÉGUR

34


GRAND TASTING

Château Canon Saint-Émilion 1998This is really beautiful now, with subtle blackberries, cherries and minerals that follow through to a silky texture, underlying the fine tannin structure. This wine continues to improve in quality with years of bottle age. Underlines the beautiful quality of this vintage on the right bank of the Gironde. Drink or hold. (93 points)

Château Canon Saint-Émilion 2001There’s a clarity and harmony to this wine now, with subtle aromas of berries, earth and hints of bitter chocolate. Medium to full body with fine tannins and a clean, fresh finish. Very fine indeed. Drink or hold. (91 points)

Château Canon Saint-Émilion 2004A beautiful red just opening now, with pretty currants, smoke and spice aromas that follow through to a solid core of ripe tannins, focused fruit and a silky, textured finish. Drink now or hold. (92 points)


Château Canon Saint-Émilion 1998, Château Canon Saint-Émilion 2001

This top Saint-Émilion estate is one

of the few with its vineyards com-

pletely surrounded by walls, near

the medieval village bearing the

name of the appellation. It gives the

vineyards the feel of a well-kept gar-

den. The wines are long-lived, ultra-

refined and gloriously complex.

Canons from the 1950s and 1960s

are legends today with wine collec-

tors, but as new vineyard plantings

come into their own, today’s reds

should surpass such fabled bottles.

The property shares the same own-

ers as Margaux’s Château Rauzan-

Ségla – the family at the helm of

Chanel.

www.chateaucanon.com

CHÂTEAU CANON

35


GRAND TASTING Château Cantemerle Haut-Médoc 2000 A wine at its peak now, with tobacco, berry and spice character. Some oyster shell as well. Full and decadent. Soft and silky-textured. Drink now. Needs decanting. (90 points)

Château Cantemerle Haut-Médoc 2005 Wow. This really shows wonderful depth and complexity on the nose with blueberries, fresh flowers and hints of stones. It’s full-bodied, with ultra-refined tannins and a long, long finish. Gets better and better with age: gorgeous now but will improve for many years to come. Excellent. (93 points)

Château Cantemerle Haut-Médoc 2009 Gorgeous ripe-fruit character, with loads of blueberries, blackberries and flowers. Full body with velvety tannins and a fruity, fresh, grapefruit aftertaste. Really beautiful. Best ever from here. Best after 2018. (95 points)

WINE COLLECTORS’ DINNER Château Cantemerle Haut-Médoc 2000, Château Cantemerle Haut-Médoc 2005

This is one of the best wine estates

in the Haut-Médoc appellation

and consistently produces refined

and balanced reds with fine tan-

nins and complex character – and,

more importantly, at a reasonable

price. The property is located in the

south of the Médoc and the vine-

yards are large: about 90 hectares.

The substantial amount of merlot

planted – about 30 percent – gives

its wines a softer, more accessible

style, especially when young, even

though most of the vineyard is

cabernet sauvignon. But the wines

age very well, particularly from top

vintages.

www.cantemerle.com

CHÂTEAU CANTEMERLE

36


GRAND TASTING Château Carignan Prima Premières Côtes de Bordeaux 2006This shows lots of ripe strawberries and hints of shaved chocolate that follow through to a full body with silky tannins and a fresh finish. The pure merlot character comes through beautifully. Excellent now. (92 points)

Château Carignan Prima Premières Côtes de Bordeaux 2008Love the finish on this wine, with bright berry and milk-chocolate character. Medium to full body with fine tannins and a fruity finish. Why wait? (90 points)

Château Carignan Prima Premières Côtes de Bordeaux 2009Impressive for this appellation, with ripe fruit and light espresso character, and hints of mushrooms. Full-bodied with velvety tannins and a long, flavourful finish. Best ever from here. Best in 2016. (93 points)

WINE COLLECTORS’ DINNER Château Carignan Prima Premières Côtes de Bordeaux 2004Aromas of sliced plums and chocolate-covered nuts. Full body with fine tannins and a silky, delicious finish. Just right now. Enjoy and relax with this one. Better and better with age. (91 points)

Château Carignan Prima Premières Côtes de Bordeaux 2006

This large château, about half

an hour’s drive from the centre

of Bordeaux, makes a wonderful

pure merlot, Prima, from its oldest

vines. I have tasted the wine blind

against a number of top merlot-

based wines from the legendary

region of Pomerol and Prima shows

incredibly well: it’s often better

than a number of wines from there.

Carignan is the property of wine

merchant Andy Lench, whose com-

pany Bordeaux Wine Locators also

has an office in Hong Kong. His goal

is to show that Prima can compete

with wines four or five times the

price. I think he has already proved

his point.

www.chateau-carignan.fr

CHÂTEAU CARIGNAN

37


GRAND TASTING

Château Clerc Milon Pauillac 2000Just starting to open now, with currant, tea leaf and berry character, along with a mineral undertone. Full body with firm tannins and a long finish. Another couple of years more of bottle age would be good, but why wait? (92 points)

Château Clerc Milon Pauillac 2004A polished and very beautiful wine with blueberry, currants and light mint character. Full body with super-integrated tannins and a long, long finish. All in finesse. So lovely now. (92 points)

Château Clerc Milon Pauillac 2006Aromas of currants and dark berries with hints of minerals. Full body with super-integrated tannins and a slightly austere and intense tannin backbone. But it’s pretty and attractive. Drink or hold. (90 points)


Château Clerc Milon Pauillac 2000, Château Clerc Milon Pauillac 2004

Many people rightly call Clerc

Milon a baby Mouton Rothschild,

because the extremely aromatic

and structured style of its wines is

similar to the great wines of the

famous first growth. Clerc shares

the same owners as Mouton, and

therefore receives the same atten-

tion and savoir faire in the vine-

yard and the winery. A new winery

should only add to the expertise at

Clerc. The wines are consistently

rich and fruity with a powerful

tannin backbone. They are long-

ageing reds and show the classic

cabernet sauvignon strength of the

appellation.

CHÂTEAU CLERC MILON

38


GRAND TASTING Château Dalem Fronsac 2001A solid 2001 with dried spices, flowers and berries. Full to medium body with silky tannins and a fresh acidity. Drink now but ageing gracefully. (91 points)

Château Dalem Fronsac 2006 Very pretty aromas of ripe berries and hints of dried flowers. Full body with silky tannins and a long finish. Bright and energetic. Drink or hold. (90 points)

Château Dalem Fronsac 2010Attractive nose with grilled meat, violets and crushed chalk. Opens up with dark plums and raspberries. Beautifully textured with good body and velvet tannins. Soft and round with a long, precise finish. Drinks well already. Wow. But better in 2015. (92 points)

WINE COLLECTORS’ DINNER Château Dalem Fronsac 2001, Château Dalem Fronsac 2006

This small château underlines

the impressive quality of wines a

lesser-known name in Bordeaux

can produce – and it sells its wines

at equally impressive, reasonable

prices. Its appellation, Fronsac, was

one of the best in France about two

centuries ago, so there is also fine

wine-making pedigree. The reds are

almost entirely made from merlot

with a touch of cabernet franc, but

they are strong and muscular when

young. They need at least four or

five years to really show what they

have from this historic and soulful

area of Bordeaux.

www.chateaudalem.com

CHÂTEAU DALEM

39


GRAND TASTING

Château du Tertre Margaux 2000Loads of tobacco and prune character. Rich and decadent. Full body with velvety tannins and a juicy, delicious finish. Just opening now. Improving with age. (91 points)

Château du Tertre Margaux 2003This is very New World on the nose with loads of ripe fruit with a raisiny, spicy undertone. Full-bodied with a round, chewy finish. Very extracted, but I think it will come around very well in the end. Pull the cork now but better in a year or two. (92 points)

Château du Tertre Margaux 2005Wonderful balance of fruit with currant and chocolate character. Full body with integrated tannins and a clean finish. Polished and refined. Drink or hold. (92 points)


Château du Tertre Margaux 2000, Château du Tertre Margaux 2003

This Margaux château is just now

coming into its own after slightly

more than a decade since Dutch

businessman Eric Albada Jelgersma

bought the property. The château

and winery were completely reno-

vated, as were the vines. Albada

Jelgersma also owns one of the top

estates in the appellation, Château

Giscours. Du Tertre makes alto-

gether different wines from its

famous third-growth sibling. The

wines are strong and muscular

when young and show an underly-

ing earthiness that turns with time

to flowers, tobacco, fruit and spices.

This is a château that continues to

truly improve its wines each year;

the best is in the future.

www.chateaudutertre.fr

CHÂTEAU DU TERTRE

40


GRAND TASTING

Château Ducru-Beaucaillou Saint-Julien 2003Lots of aromas of roasted fruit, such as blueberries and raisins, and spices. It has full body with plenty of velvety tannins and a long, slightly chewy finish. Needs another two or three years to come together but outstanding now. (94 points) Château Ducru-Beaucaillou Saint-Julien 2004This Ducru is such a harmonious wine, with cedar, berry and truffle character. It’s full-bodied with gorgeous tannins and a pretty finish. Drink now. (92 points)

Château Ducru-Beaucaillou Saint-Julien 2006Subtle aromas of currants, blueberries and minerals. Full body with super-integrated tannins and a fine, fine finish. I love the texture to this wine, and it’s just starting to show you the true quality it has. Start drinking. One of the top wines of this vintage. Better in 2016. (95 points)

WINE COLLECTORS’ DINNER Château Ducru-Beaucaillou Saint-Julien 2004, Château Ducru-Beaucaillou Saint-Julien 2006

What owner Bruno Borie has done

at this famous second-growth Saint-

Julien estate in the last two decades

is close to phenomenal. Sure, his

family made some excellent wines,

particularly in 1961 and 1970, but

from the mid-1990s onwards Ducru

has been competing with the top

names of Bordeaux. Its recent

vintages show a fabulous clarity of

character and strength, yet remain

refined and polished. There’s a

directness that impresses me every

time I taste a red from here. Ducru

made one of my few 100-point

wines of the legendary 2010 vin-

tage, but all of its wines from the

2000s are outstanding quality.

www.chateau-ducru-beaucaillou.com

CHÂTEAU DUCRU-BEAUCAILLOU

41


GRAND TASTING

Château Peby Faugères Saint-Émilion 2004A soft, juicy wine with a chocolate, coffee bean and sliced-plum character. Full and round with delicious fruit and a fresh finish. It’s velvety-textured. Caresses your palate. Better than I remember. Pure merlot. Drink or hold. (93 points)

Château Faugères Saint-Émilion 2006Wonderful blueberry and dried flowers with hints of new wood. Some sandalwood. Full body with ultra-fine tannins and a beautiful finish. Layered. Delicious now but needs a year or two to come into its own. Yet so good now. Why wait? (92 points)

Château Peby Faugères Saint-Émilion 2006So beautiful now, with raspberries and shaved-chocolate character, both on the nose and the palate. Full body with very fine tannins and very fresh acidity. This makes the beautiful red bright and delicious. Sexy. (93 points)


Château Faugères Saint-Émilion 2006, Château Peby Faugères Saint-Émilion 2006

Swiss entrepreneur Silvio Denz

makes two fabulous wines in Saint-

Émilion. Both vineyards were

recently upgraded to grand cru

classé status. Faugères is a blend of

merlot with some cabernet franc

and cabernet sauvignon, while

Peby Faugères is pure merlot. Both

wines show a wonderful richness

and intensity with a concentration

of fruit and velvety tannins seldom

seen in their area. Denz produces

the reds in a neoclassical winery

at Faugères created by the great

Italian architect Mario Botta. It is

this combination of tradition and

modernity that makes the wines of

Denz so very special.

www.chateau-faugeres.com

CHÂTEAU FAUGÈRES/PEBY FAUGÈRES

42


GRAND TASTING

Chateau Gigault Premières Côtes de Blaye Cuvée Viva 2005Beautiful aromas of flowers, berries and light chocolate follow through to a full body, with wonderful silky tannins and a fresh, almost mineral aftertaste. Delicious now. (91 points) Chateau Gigault Premières Côtes de Blaye Cuvée Viva 2008 Aromas and flavours of dried strawberries, with hints of cedar and mushrooms. Medium to full body with silky tannins and a fresh finish. Refined and stylish. Brings you back to sip again and again. Drink or hold. (90 points)

Chateau Gigault Blaye-Côtes-de-Bordeaux Cuvée Viva 2009This is so pretty and elegant with wonderfully integrated, fine tannins with flower, berry and cherry character. Full body with tightly wound tannins and a fresh finish. Already so enticing. Better in 2015. (92 points)

WINE COLLECTORS’ DINNER Chateau Gigault Premières Côtes de Blaye Cuvée Viva 2005, Chateau Gigault Premières Côtes de Blaye Cuvée Viva 2008

Wine merchant Christophe Reboul

Salze purchased a dilapidated châ-

teau in the unpopular appellation

of Premières Côtes de Blaye in the

late 1990s and turned it in to a small

jewel box of a winery, producing

a blended red of almost entirely

merlot called Cuvée Viva. The

wine is incredibly attractive and

subtly fruity when young, making

it delicious to drink, but with some

bottle age it turns into a complex

and complete wine. It’s among the

best-value fine Bordeaux.

www.chateau-gigault.fr

CHÂTEAU GIGAULT

43


GRAND TASTING

Château Giscours Margaux 2001Very perfumed and delicately fruity with plums and violets. Full body with super-integrated tannins and a clean finish. Lovely texture to this red. Drink now. (91 points)

Château Giscours Margaux 2003This is full and powerful, with loads of dark fruits and a tropical undertone of berries and mango. Big and fresh. This needs more time than the 2000. Give it five years; even though it’s beautiful now, it’s better to pull the cork in 2015 at the earliest. (93 points)

Château Giscours Margaux 2004This is very fresh and firm with really beautiful chocolate, walnut and berry character on the nose and palate. Full body with chewy yet polished tannins and a flavourful finish. Subtle and fine. Drink or hold. (91 points)


Château Giscours Margaux 2001, Château Giscours Margaux 2003

The third-growth Margaux estate

of Giscours has been on the rise

ever since Dutch businessman Eric

Albada Jelgersma bought the prop-

erty in 1995. (He bought nearby

Château du Tertre three years later.)

However, Giscours has really come

into its own in the last 10 years, pro-

ducing outstanding wines almost

every vintage after many years

of trial and error in fine-tuning

the viticulture and winemaking.

There’s now a generosity and rich-

ness in the wines that is unique for

the appellation of Margaux, where

aromatic quality seems more impor-

tant than palate structure.

www.chateau-giscours.fr

CHÂTEAU GISCOURS

44


www.chateauguiraud.fr

GRAND TASTING Château Guiraud Sauternes 2001Intensely fruity and rich with wonderful sweetness and loads of spicy and honey character with a dried apricot undertone. It hasn’t changed much since I last tasted it, just bottled. Great 2001. Drink or hold. (95 points)

Château Guiraud Sauternes 2003I might have a slight preference for this over the 2001 but I can’t make up my mind yet. It seems to have more richness and sweetness, with loads of apple tart, caramel and spice character. The noble rot certainly did its good here. Long, long finish. Beautiful sweet wine. Drink or hold. (95 points)

Château Guiraud Sauternes 2005This appears to be the synthesis of the fabulous 2001 and 2003. It shows wonderful aromas of botrytis spice, honey and citrus rind. Lots of fruit with a tropical-fruit undertone of mango and papaya on the palate. Intense finish. Too excellent not to drink. (97 points)

WINE COLLECTORS’ DINNER Château Guiraud Sauternes 2003

This is one of the top names of

Sauternes, making powerful, rich

sweet wines with a great density

and profoundness. The noble-rot

character of the wine, which comes

out as spicy and floral, is extremely

intense in Guiraud, meaning the

wines are very concentrated. This

botrytis character stays with the

wine through its evolution in-bot-

tle. The last decade was a great one

for the wines from here, although I

have had excellent bottles from the

1990s and 1980s. New owners in

2006 assure continued success for

this unique sweet wine producer;

they include Robert Peugeot, the

automotive magnate; Olivier

Bernard of Domaine de Chevalier;

Stephan von Neipperg of Canon-

la-Gaffelière; and longtime estate

manager Xavier Planty.

CHÂTEAU GUIRAUD

45


www.chateau-haut-bailly.com

GRAND TASTING

Château Haut-Bailly Pessac-Léognan 2000Still very youthful but starting to show its wonderful depth, structure and complexity. It’s full-bodied with silky tannins and a pretty fruit character that goes from currants to sweet earth. A wine to enjoy now and in the future. (94 points) Château Haut-Bailly Pessac-Léognan 2001Some might prefer this to the excellent 2000. It’s just as dense and rich but perhaps doesn’t have the same intensity and complexity as the 2000. But a clearly outstanding wine. Full body with plenty of dark fruits, chocolate and hints of earth. Drink or hold. (92 points)

Château Haut-Bailly Pessac-Léognan 2004The racy, precise nature of this beautiful wine underlines the beautiful winemaking here. It shows plenty of smoky, berry and mineral character yet is reserved and subtle. It defines what the British call claret: it’s all about finesse and balance. Drink now. (90 points)

WINE COLLECTORS’ DINNER Château Haut-Bailly Pessac-Léognan 2000, Château Haut-Bailly Pessac-Léognan 2001

Bordeaux aficionados have known

for decades that the wines of Haut-

Bailly are some of the most refined

and soulful reds of the region of

Pessac-Léognan. It made legendary

wines during the first part of the

20th century but lost some of its

lustre thereafter. It wasn’t until the

American owner Robert Wilmers

bought the estate in 1998 that

Haut-Bailly came back to the excep-

tional quality levels of yesteryear.

The style of the reds here shows

a wonderful depth of character

and structure but in an extremely

elegant manner. These are wines

that seduce you with their subtlety.

CHÂTEAU HAUT-BAILLY

46


GRAND TASTING

Château Haut-Brisson Saint-Émilion La Reserve 2007A fine and subtly fruity wine with chocolate, berry and light walnut character. It’s medium- to full-bodied with dusty tannins and a currant, berry aftertaste. Just becoming ready. (90 points)

Château Haut-Brisson Saint-Émilion 2009I like the fruit, tannin and oak balance to this silky, dusty young wine. Lovely fruit with a strawberry, cherry and cedar character. Better in 2015, but why wait? (90 points)

Château Haut-Brisson Saint-Émilion La Reserve 2009Such gorgeous fruit, with extremely polished tannins and a persistent finish. The new oak comes out at the finish, but it should melt together with age. A joy to taste now but better in 2016. (93 points)


Château Haut-Brisson Saint-Émilion 2009, Château Haut-Brisson Saint-Émilion La Reserve 2009

Hong Kong resident Peter Kwok

originally bought his Saint-Émilion

wine estate in 1997 as a place for his

family to immerse itself in French

culture, but it wasn’t long before he

began to want to produce excellent

red wines on his property. It took

almost a decade to get things right,

with the help of renowned con-

sulting winemaker Michel Rolland.

Now the wines have a structure and

depth of flavour that Kwok never

thought attainable. The wines

are made from organically grown

grapes. Haut-Brisson makes three

wines – the Reserve bottling is the

very best.

CHÂTEAU HAUT-BRISSON

47


GRAND TASTING

Clarence Dillon Wines Bordeaux Clarendelle 2008This is very good for a simple Bordeaux designation, with berry and dark-chocolate character, medium body and a dense centre palate. Ripe tannins. Try after 2011. (90 points)

Le Clarence de Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan 2008The second wine of Haut-Brion. Very pretty, subtle tannins, with hints of dried fruits and tobacco. Medium to full body with integrated tannins. (90 points) La Chapelle de La Mission Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan 2009Sweet berry, sweet tobacco, chocolate and orange peel. Full-bodied, velvety tannins and a long finish. Gorgeous and creamy. Second wine of La Mission Haut-Brion is fantastic. Better in 2016 but so delicious now. (94 points) La Clarté de Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan White 2010 Aromas of lemon, lime and green apple follow through to a full body, with a dry palate and a fruity finish. Plenty of dry pineapple and mango. Drink or hold. (93 points)

WINE COLLECTORS’ DINNER Le Clarence de Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan 2008, La Chapelle de La Mission Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan 2009, La Clarté de Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan White 2010

Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-

Brion represent the greatest quality

wines in Bordeaux. First-growth

Haut-Brion is arguably the birth-

place of fine wine, with vintages

beginning in the 15th century. It

makes compelling, almost mythical

wines, both red and white. Its neigh-

bour, La Mission, makes great wines

with an almost religious austerity

and clarity. Both are under the same

ownership – the American Dillon

family. The head of both châteaux

is Prince Robert of Luxembourg.

The second wines of both estates

are often overlooked. Haut-Brion’s

Le Clarence is the reincarnation

of Bahans Haut-Brion, sharing the

same refinement as the first wine. La

Chappelle remains the second wine

of La Mission and assimilates the

purity of cabernet sauvignon from

the estate’s first red. In addition, La

Clarté is a combination of the second

white wines of both estates.

www.haut-brion.comwww.mission-haut-brion.com

CHÂTEAU HAUT-BRION AND LA MISSION HAUT-BRION

48


GRAND TASTING

Château Haut-Marbuzet Saint-Estèphe 2003This is very soft and velvety with a tantalising character of ripe red fruits and spices. Full body with juicy fruit and a fresh, fruity finish. So delicious now. (91 points)

Château Haut-Marbuzet Saint-Estèphe 2004Raspberry, blueberry and mineral character. Full body with super-fine tannins. A little austere now but just coming around. Shows a touch of class. Better in 2015. (91 points)

Château Haut-Marbuzet Saint-Estèphe 2005Aromas of milk chocolate, walnut shell and currants follow through to a full body, with soft, velvety tannins and a chewy finish. Serious depth of fruit here. Better in 2015 but so enticing now. (93 points)


Château Haut-Marbuzet Saint-Estèphe 2003, Château Haut-Marbuzet Saint-Estèphe 2004

This wine estate in Saint-Estèphe

is one of the best in the appella-

tion, and I have long thought that

it deserves to be a classified growth.

However, official rankings are hard

to change in France. Regardless,

the wines of Haut-Marbuzet show

a density and structure that should

impress anyone accustomed to

drinking the best of Bordeaux. The

fact that in many vintages Haut-

Marbuzet ages its wines in 100

per cent new French oak barrels

underlines the strength and power

of its reds. The wines are archetypal

bottles from Saint-Estèphe, with a

spicy, fruity character that runs

though them.

CHÂTEAU HAUT-MARBUZET

49


GRAND TASTING Château La Fleur Morange Saint-Émilion 2001I like the decadent character of this wine, with a meat, walnut shell and berry character. Full body with velvety tannins and a fresh finish. Drink or hold. (90 points)

Château La Fleur Morange Saint-Émilion 2004This is very well done, with wonderfully integrated, silky tannins and a berry, cherry, lightly mineral character. Full and very fine. Drink or hold. (91 points)

Château La Fleur Morange Saint-Émilion 2006Balanced and very fine with blueberry, cherry and floral character. Full to medium body, with elegant tannins and an attractive fruit-acid tension. Drink or hold. (90 points)

WINE COLLECTORS’ DINNER Château La Fleur Morange Saint-Émilion 2004, Château La Fleur Morange Saint-Émilion 2006

This small château in Saint-Émilion

underlines the improvement in the

winemaking of the appellation in

the past decade. With only about

two hectares of vineyards, it pro-

duces opulent, almost decadent

wines with beautiful mineral and

earth undertones. A large part of

the quality comes from the old

vines grown here: they average

about 80 years old. This gives

the wines a wonderful depth of

character and flavour. The wines

are usually a blend of 70 per cent

merlot and 30 per cent cabernet

franc. Look for its tiny-production

bottling called Mathilde, which is a

pure merlot – about 600 cases are

made.

www.lafleurmorange.com

CHÂTEAU LA FLEUR MORANGE

50


GRAND TASTING

Château La Fleur-Pétrus Pomerol 2000A delicious nose of black olives, brown sugar and sliced plums. Full-bodied but shy with a dense palate and soft, silky tannins. Flavours of milk chocolate, plums and light vanilla bean come through. This is so good now, but wait three to four years to really see it shine. (93 points)

Château La Fleur-Pétrus Pomerol 2009A wine that is extremely perfumed, with flowers, berries and hints of minerals. Full-bodied with ultra-fine tannins. Muscular and powerful. Goes on and on. The finish is wonderful. Needs at least five or six years of bottle age. Try in 2018. (97 points)

Château La Fleur-Pétrus Pomerol 2010Fresh and clean with hazelnut, chocolate and berry character. Truffles too. Full body with silky tannins and a tangy finish. I like the balance and finesse to this young La Fleur-Pétrus. So refined and beautiful. Better in 2017. (98 points)


Château La Fleur-Pétrus Pomerol 1998Just now coming into its own, the LFP 1998 shows how wonderful this vintage is for Pomerol. It’s soft and silky with lovely character of fruit, wet earth and mushrooms. Some flowers too. Silky and fresh. Drink or hold. (95 points)

Château La Fleur-Pétrus Pomerol 2009

This is one of the legendary wine

estates of Pomerol, the neighbour

of the great Lafleur and just a

stone’s throw away from Petrus.

The Christian Moueix family owns

the estate along with such illustri-

ous Right Bank estates as Trotanoy

and Bélair-Monange. The property

was recently enlarged to incor-

porate new vineyards next to the

famous Le Pin. This means more

great wines from La Fleur-Pétrus.

The wines when young are firm yet

profound with seamless tannins

and complex aromas and flavours.

This unique character intensifies

with bottle age. A blend of mostly

merlot with cabernet franc, La

Fleur-Pétrus is a joy to taste at any

stage of its evolution, although the

wines show best with 10 to 15 years

of bottle age. Recent vintages are at

the same quality level as the great

LFPs of the 1950s and 1960s.

CHÂTEAU LA FLEUR-PÉTRUS

51


GRAND TASTING

Château Lagrange Saint-Julien 2000A wine that is just starting to wake up after a long sleep. It’s medium- to full-bodied, with super-integrated tannins and a lead-pencil, currant and berry character. Lemon-peel undertones. Lovely silky texture. Drink now and beyond. (93 points)

Château Lagrange Saint-Julien 2003I really love the character of dark berries such as blueberries and currants here. Some rose leaf too. Full body with fine tannins and a savoury, fruity, silky-textured finish. Very fine indeed. Drink or hold. (92 points)

Château Lagrange Saint-Julien 2005 A wine that is all in harmony. This is really fabulous, with currants, blackberries and fresh flowers that follow through to a full body with super-well-defined tannins and a beautiful finish. So delicious now, but better in five years. (95 points)


Château Lagrange Saint-Julien 2000, Château Lagrange Saint-Julien 2005

This large château in the appella-

tion of Saint-Julien has been quietly

making outstanding wines since the

early 1980s, when Japan’s beverage

giant Suntory bought the property.

It’s hard to think of a classified

growth estate in the Médoc making

better wines for the money. There’s

some very reflective, almost Zen,

about the wines. They are direct

and beautifully crafted, emphasis-

ing the uniqueness of the soils and

microclimates of the vineyards of

Lagrange. The reds also are consist-

ently of outstanding quality, regard-

less of the vintage. This underlines

the excellent viticulture and win-

emaking at the estates.

www.chateau-lagrange.com

CHÂTEAU LAGRANGE

52


GRAND TASTING Château Laroque Saint-Émilion 2000Earthy and rich with meat and berry character. Sweet tobacco too. Medium to full body with velvety tannins and a long, beautiful finish. Drink or hold. (91 points)

Château Laroque Saint-Émilion 2003Thick and rich with loads of berry, milk chocolate and meat. Full body with velvety tannins and a long finish. Layered. And ready. (92 points)

Château Laroque Saint-Émilion 2005Very pretty aromas of plums, dried cherries and hints of meat and spices. Full body with silky tannins and a beautiful fruit and tannin quality. Coffee-bean undertones. Needs time to come together still but very enticing. Better in 2015. (92 points)

WINE COLLECTORS’ DINNER Château Laroque Saint-Émilion 2003, Château Laroque Saint-Émilion 2005

The spotlight often shines strongest

on the top names of the appellation

of Saint-Émilion, such as Cheval

Blanc and Ausone, but many reds

from the region are both excellent

and attractively priced. Take the

recent vintages of Laroque. Made

primarily of merlot with a touch of

cabernet franc and cabernet sau-

vignon, the wines show beautiful

character of dark fruit, tobacco and

earth. These are the wines that tell

you, the minute you put your nose

in the glass, where they come from.

It’s all about drinkability here.

www.chateau-laroque.com

CHÂTEAU LAROQUE

53


GRAND TASTING

Château Lynch-Bages Pauillac 2000Another wonderful 2000 coming out of its long sleep. It shows beautiful aromas of berry, tobacco, herb and spice that follow through to a full palate with round, textured tannins and lots of fruit. Drink or hold. (95 points)

Château Lynch-Bages Pauillac 2003Pretty, clean and perfumed, with a milk-chocolate and berry character. Full-bodied with round, velvety tannins and a long finish. Polished and very beautiful: caressing. Pull the cork after 2014. (94 points)

Château Lynch-Bages Pauillac 2006Very focused and pretty now, with currants, minerals and hints of dried flowers. Full body with super-integrated tannins and a long, long finish. Beautiful. Drink or hold. (92 points)


Château Lynch-Bages Pauillac 2000, Château Lynch-Bages Pauillac 2003

This château needs no introduction.

It is one of the most famous in Asia,

and consistently produces some of

the top wines from Bordeaux of any

vintage. But it also remains reason-

able in price compared to many of

the top wines. It is now run by the

young, dynamic Jean-Charles Cazes,

whose family has owned Lynch-

Bages since the 1930s, and who says

his estate will always make great

wines for Bordeaux drinkers. The

wines of the last decade are some

of the best ever and hark back to

the 1980s, the golden age of Lynch-

Bages.

www.lynchbages.com

CHÂTEAU LYNCH-BAGES

54


GRAND TASTING

Château Malartic-Lagravière Pessac-Léognan 2005A little shy still but shows very pretty dark berry and wet earth with hints of stones. Medium- to full-bodied with fine tannins and a fresh, delicately fruity finish. Drink or hold. (90 points)

Château Malartic-Lagravière Pessac-Léognan 2008 This needs a year or two to soften its youthful edges but it shows very attractive character of blackberries, liquorice and wet earth. It’s full- to medium-bodied with slightly chewy tannins and a flavourful finish. (91 points) Château Malartic-Lagravière Pessac-Léognan White 2010A white with lovely minerality and sliced-lemon character. It’s full and fresh with bright acidity and a long, exciting finish. The wines keep getting better and better here. Drink or hold. (94 points)

WINE COLLECTORS’ DINNER Château Malartic-Lagravière Pessac-Léognan 2005, Château Malartic-Lagravière Pessac-Léognan White 2010

I regularly drink the wines from

this fine Pessac-Léognan estate

while in Hong Kong. The white

has the depth and character of top

white Burgundy and goes incred-

ibly well with Cantonese food. The

reds show an intensity and class

that I expect from a top wine from

the appellation. It’s the last decade

that the property has hit its stride

in winemaking under the helm of

the Bonnie family from Belgium,

and each vintage better and better

wines are being made. The red is

mostly merlot and cabernet sau-

vignon, while the white is 80 per

cent sauvignon blanc and 20 per

cent sémillon. Both red and white

improve with age incredibly well.

www.malartic-lagraviere.com

CHÂTEAU MALARTIC-LAGRAVIÈRE

55


GRAND TASTING

Château Malescot Saint-Exupéry Margaux 2004This is rich and decadent with truffles and blackberries on the nose that follow through to a full body, with ultra-fine tannins and a polished, pretty finish. Delicious now but will but better in a year or two. (92 points)

Château Malescot Saint-Exupéry Margaux 2006Wonderful complexity of fruit on the nose, with sweet tobacco, cherries, dried strawberries and flowers. Full body with well-integrated tannins and a complex finish. Ultra-fine tannins. Drink or hold. (93 points)

Château Malescot Saint-Exupéry Margaux 2009Intense spice and berry character, with hints of sweet tobacco. It changes all the time from flowers to fruit and wet earth. Full-bodied with super-fine tannins and ripe fruit. It’s long and juicy with lovely fruit and fine tannins that last for minutes on your palate. I have drunk many bottles already because it’s so gorgeous, but better in 10 years or so. (98 points)


Château Malescot Saint-Exupéry Margaux 2006, Château Malescot Saint-Exupéry Margaux 2009

There are few winemakers in

Bordeaux with a bigger heart

than Jean-Luc Zuger, whose fam-

ily owns the Margaux estate of

Malescot Saint-Exupéry. He is a

man of the earth and makes wine

with profound style and character

that is unique to his vineyards. The

wines have such richness, yet at

the same time harmony and depth.

His 2009 was my Wine of the Year

in 2012, not only for the superb

quality but also for the relatively

reasonable price compared to the

other top wines of the vintage. The

wines of Malescot have an almost

Burgundian texture to them, mak-

ing them true wine-drinkers’

Bordeaux.

www.malescot.com

CHÂTEAU MALESCOT SAINT-EXUPÉRY

56


GRAND TASTING Château Montrose Saint-Estèphe 2000 The 2000 Montrose is just starting now to open and shows beautiful spices and dark fruits on the nose and palate. It’s full-bodied with ultra-fine, integrated tannins and an extremely complex, refined finish of subtle dark fruits and spices. Drink or hold. (96 points)

Château Montrose Saint-Estèphe 2003After the 2009, this is the most exciting Montrose ever made, with intense aromas and flavours of plums, blueberries, spices, tobacco and cedar. It’s full-bodied with extremely refined tannins but a dense, delicious palate. Better in 2016, but why wait? (97 points)

Château Montrose Saint-Estèphe 2004This one of my favourite 2004 Bordeaux to drink at the moment. It shows lovely sweet tobacco, flowers and currants on the nose and palate. It’s full- to medium-bodied, with silky, firm tannins and a spicy, fresh finish. So delicious now. (93 points)

WINE COLLECTORS’ DINNER Château Montrose Saint-Estèphe 2000, Château Montrose Saint-Estèphe 2003

Years ago I heard a famous win-

emaker in Bordeaux say that a large

part of the vineyards of Montrose

were clearly in the same league as

the nearby first growths in Pauillac

such as Lafite-Rothschild. And this

thought always comes to mind

when I taste the wines of Montrose,

especially in recent vintages. The

new ownership of this large Saint-

Estèphe estate – one of the most

important families in France, the

Bouygues – suggests that the wines

from here will only get better and

better. Substantial investments

are underway, including an envi-

ronmentally sustainable winery

with solar power. I already scored

the 2009 a perfect 100 points, but

past vintages are a joy to drink and

always show a character of strength

with refinement.

www.chateau-montrose.com

CHÂTEAU MONTROSE

57


GRAND TASTING

Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild Pauillac 2005Juicy and delicious wine with plum and chocolate character. It’s full-bodied yet has a round, soft texture. So delicious now. Ready. (91 points)

Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild Pauillac 2008This has always been an excellent second wine for Mouton. It is really plummy and juicy on the nose with flowers and lots of everything. Full and velvety with a lovely texture. Long and very pretty. Plenty of chocolate and lightly toasted oak. Bright and exciting. Should be just starting to be ready to drink. (92 points)

Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild Pauillac 2009Aromas of smoke, bacon and ripe fruits follow through to a full body, with lots of blackberries and brambleberries. The palate shows velvety tannins with lovely intensity and balance. Gorgeous wine. The second wine of Mouton Rothschild is already a joy to taste. (94 points)


Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild Pauillac 2008, Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild Pauillac 2009

This second wine of famous first

growth Mouton Rothschild has

only been produced since 1993. It is

made from grapes from a selection

of the young vines of the vineyards.

Only a few thousand cases are

made. It has much of the same flam-

boyant and opulent character as

the first wines, yet lacks the depth

of structure, making it extremely

attractive to drink young. The wine

is made with the same dedication

and precision as the grand vin. It

usually has a slightly higher propor-

tion of merlot in the blend, with the

majority being cabernet sauvignon.

www.bpdr.com

CHÂTEAU MOUTON ROTHSCHILD

58


GRAND TASTING Château Ormes de Pez Saint-Estèphe 2004This is so delicious now with chocolate, light spice and sliced-plum character. It’s medium- to full-bodied with integrated tannins and a juicy finish. Drink now. (90 points)

Château Ormes de Pez Saint-Estèphe 2005The aromas of walnut shell, chocolate and berries are all there. Full body with soft, velvety tannins and a fruity finish. Already ready to drink. (90 points)

Château Ormes de Pez Saint-Estèphe 2010Wonderful aromas of currants and blackberries with hints of spices. Full body with fabulous tannins and a long, creamy texture to the finish. I love the depth of fruit to this. Best ever from here. Great value for the vintage. Try in 2017 but already a joy to taste. (95 points)

WINE COLLECTORS’ DINNER Château Ormes de Pez Saint-Estèphe 2005

For decades, the wines of Ormes de

Pez have been surpassing its non-

classified status with excellent,

characterful reds that age incred-

ibly well. I have had wines from the

1960s and 1970s that are still deli-

cious today and show true Saint-

Estèphe character with spices and

dark fruit flavours, and firm tannins.

The property is under the command

of Jean-Charles Cazes, whose fam-

ily bought Ormes de Pez in the late

1930s. They are also the owners of

the ever-popular Lynch-Bages. The

wine is made mostly with cabernet

sauvignon, but a large proportion of

merlot, up to about one-third, can

give the wine a rounder, friendlier

style.

www.ormesdepez.com

CHÂTEAU ORMES DE PEZ

59


GRAND TASTING

Château Palmer Margaux 1999A very pretty red with balance and attractive fruit. Underlines how attractive this vintage is and how forgotten it is as well. Medium to full body with firm tannins and a raspberry, blackberry and light cedar undertone. Drink or hold. (91 points)

Château Palmer Margaux 2005 What a nose of milk chocolate, with raspberries and hints of plums and flowers. A wonderful nose. Full-bodied, with super-velvety tannins and a chocolate, nut and dark-fruit character on the palate. The fine tannins and great balance make you want to drink this, but you should wait and let it all out. Pull the cork in 2016. (94 points)

Alter Ego de Palmer Margaux 2009What a second wine. This is so delicious with a dense palate and beautiful yet friendly structure. Velvety tannins coat your mouth but it is the savoury fruit that brings you back for more. Love the chocolate and coffee undertones. Better in 2016 but beautiful now. (93 points)


Château Palmer Margaux 1999, Château Palmer Margaux 2005

The wines from Château Palmer

are some of the most sought-after

Bordeaux in the world, but they still

remain relatively affordable com-

pared to the top trophy wines of the

region. They are not wines simply

for investors; keen Bordeaux wine

lovers continue to buy Palmer for

their cellars and open and drink the

bottles. Fine-tuning in the vineyards

and winery has brought a new, even

more dense and impressive style to

the wines of Palmer. In my opinion,

this great wine estate has still not

reached its limit for quality, even

though recent vintages have been

some of its best ever.

www.chateau-palmer.com

CHÂTEAU PALMER

60


GRAND TASTING

Château Pichon Longueville Baron Pauillac 2001This is complex and beautiful now with liquorice and currant, with delicate sweet tobacco character on the nose and palate. Medium to full body with subtle, entrancing flavours and textures. So right now. Almost a soya undertone to the subtle fruit. A gorgeous claret at its peak. (92 points) Château Pichon Longueville Baron Pauillac 2003Sweet tobacco and plum with hints of leather and cassis on the nose. Full-bodied with big, velvety tannins and lots of fruit. Very rich and powerful, even chewy. Just now starting to show its true potential. This was my Wine of the Year in 2011. (96 points)

Château Pichon Longueville Baron Pauillac 2004Sweet tobacco and plums with just a hint of prunes. Fascinating nose. Full body with velvety tannins, tangy acidity and a fresh finish. Just right now. Savoury and delicious. (92 points)

WINE COLLECTORS’ DINNER Château Pichon Longueville Baron Pauillac 2001, Château Pichon Longueville Baron Pauillac 2004

Pichon Baron makes muscular yet

fruity wines that achieve depth and

strength just about every vintage.

As they age, they become more

refined and beautiful and take on

an extremely elegant style. I always

find that the wines of Pichon Baron

have such purity, which comes from

the predominance of cabernet sau-

vignon in the blend. Winemaking

here is precise and thoughtful. It’s

part of the AXA Millésimes group

of wineries, which includes such

names as Burgundy’s Domaine de

l’Arlot and Portugal’s Quinta do

Noval, as well as Bordeaux’s Petit-

Village, Pibran and Suduiraut.

www.pichonlongueville.com

CHÂTEAU PICHON LONGUEVILLE BARON

61


GRAND TASTING

Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande Pauillac 2000Lot of currants and berries with a slightly stewed-fruit character. It’s full and round with soft tannins and a fruity finish. Needs to be decanted an hour or two before serving. Succulent wine. (93 points)

Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande Pauillac 2003This has very ripe fruit, but not over-ripe. Hints of prunes but mostly currants and spices on the nose, mainly cinnamon. Full-bodied with firm tannins yet polished and velvety. It still has an incredible freshness. I love it. Try it after 2015, but enjoy this now if you cannot wait. (95 points)

Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande Pauillac 2004Shows balance and finesse with aromas and flavours of currants and sweet tobacco with fine tannins and a refined, caressing finish. Drink and enjoy. (90 points)


Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande Pauillac 2000, Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande Pauillac 2004

I have always had an affection for

the wines of Pichon Lalande. I

remember tasting wines back to the

1920s in a large tasting in Germany

in the 1980s and the wines from

the older vintages were fantastic.

The pedigree and quality are won-

derful in this Pauillac estate, and

since the Roederer champagne

family, the Rouzauds, bought the

property in 2006, I have seen a

continued improvement in quality.

Pichon Lalande makes ultra-refined,

reserved wines with racy backbones

of elegant tannins and bright acid-

ity. They are firmly feminine in

style.

www.pichon-lalande.com

CHÂTEAU PICHON LONGUEVILLE COMTESSE DE LALANDE

62


GRAND TASTING Château Pomeaux Pomerol 2001This shows more fruit than the 2000 with blackberry, chocolate and flowers. Full body yet refined and very elegant. Hazelnut and dried strawberries in the aftertaste. Drink now. (92 points)

Château Pomeaux Pomerol 2004A velvety-textured red with dried-berry and shaved dark-chocolate character. Full body with fresh acidity and a juicy finish. Just coming around now. (91 points)

Château Pomeaux Pomerol 2005Wow. Gorgeous aromas of incense, rose petal and dark fruits. Deep and fascinating. Full body with velvety tannins and an impressive finish. Just starting to open now. (93 points)

WINE COLLECTORS’ DINNER Château Pomeaux Pomerol 2001, Château Pomeaux Pomerol 2004

It’s surprising how few people know

about this small Pomerol estate of

just four hectares in a prime part of

the famous appellation, which has

been making a beautiful pure mer-

lot since the late 1990s. Moreover

it’s the property of a long-time

Hong Kong resident: lawyer Ted

Powers. The American has quietly

produced consistently fine wines

since the 1998 vintage; I nearly

always find them outstanding. In

fact, I recently tasted every vintage

made and every wine was very good

to outstanding quality throughout.

The best wines were the youngest,

which suggest the best is yet to

come. These are delicious, bal-

anced, fruity reds.

www.pomeaux.com

CHÂTEAU POMEAUX

63


GRAND TASTING

Château Pontet-Canet Pauillac 2001Fresh and very youthful still with currants, flowers and liquorice character. Full body with fine tannins and a racy, fine finish. Drink now and enjoy. (92 points)

Château Pontet-Canet Pauillac 2004Firm and fresh with currant bush and sweet-tobacco character that turns to cigar box. Medium to full body with a racy edge to it. Drink or hold. (91 points)

Château Pontet-Canet Pauillac 2006This red is now soft and fruity with plum, berry and mineral character. It’s full-bodied with fine tannins and a gorgeous finish. Drink or hold. (93 points)


Château Pontet-Canet Pauillac 2004, Château Pontet-Canet Pauillac 2006

It’s difficult to think of a wine estate

that has improved the quality of

wines more than Pontet-Canet.

The Pauillac property is now mak-

ing some of the most exciting reds

in the world, and all the grapes are

biodyanmically grown, emphasis-

ing the unique character of its soils

and microclimates. I recently rated

Pontet-Canet’s 2010 a perfect 100

points, and older vintages are also

outstanding quality. The wines

from here are always about finesse

and drinkability with a uniqueness

of character for mostly cabernet

sauvignon grapes. The Tesseron

family should be applauded for

what it has achieved here.

www.pontet-canet.com

CHÂTEAU PONTET-CANET

64


GRAND TASTING

Château Prieuré-Lichine Margaux 2000This is very dense and rich now with sweet-tobacco, dried-berry and mahogany character. Full body with velvety tannins and a juicy finish. A long life ahead of it. Improving with age. (93 points)

Château Prieuré-Lichine Margaux 2003Complex aromas of blueberry, raspberry and coffee follow through to a full body with soft, velvety tannins and a long, juicy finish. So yummy right now, but give it another three to five years. (93 points) Château Prieuré-Lichine Margaux 2005This is really fine and layered with ripe and polished tannins and a beautiful depth of fruit. Blackberries, currants and blueberries with hints of light chocolate. Some minerals too. Intense finish. Drink or hold. (93 points)

WINE COLLECTORS’ DINNER Château Prieuré-Lichine Margaux 2000, Château Prieuré-Lichine Margaux 2003

The wines of this Margaux estate

have a special place in my heart

because I spent a good amount of

time at the château in the mid-1980s

learning how to taste wines with

the late owner and author Alexis

Lichine. But the wines of Prieuré-

Lichine have really come into their

own in the past decade through the

dedication of the current owners,

the Ballande Group, and the work

of consulting oenologist Stéphane

Derenoncourt. The wines are fruit-

focused with beautiful tannins

and tension, giving them a lively

intensity. I find them just right to

drink about five to six years after

the vintage but they improve for

many years after.

www.prieure-lichine.fr

CHÂTEAU PRIEURÉ-LICHINE

65


GRAND TASTING

Château Rauzan-Ségla Margaux 2000This is just starting to open up on the nose with tobacco, plums and currants throughout. Full-bodied with lots of tobacco and chocolate that turns to notes of coffee and fruit on the finish. The palate is just starting to come around. Why should you wait on this? (93 points)

Château Rauzan-Ségla Margaux 2004The aromas of this wine are now very complex with plum, sweet tobacco, violets and currants. It’s full-bodied with silky tannins and chocolate, berry and black-tea flavours. Just about ready now. (93 points)

Château Rauzan-Ségla Margaux 2006Very pure fruit in this wine with flowers and red fruits such as raspberries on the nose and palate. It’s full-bodied with fine tannins and a fresh finish. Attractive 2006 for drinking now or later.(92 points)


Château Rauzan-Ségla Margaux 2000, Château Rauzan-Ségla Margaux 2004

The pedigree of Rauzan-Ségla is

exceptional. I have personally

drunk wines from the late 1800s

that were still of phenomenal

quality. In fact, the Margaux wine

estate was considered at the same

level as many of the first growths

in the 19th century. Today, Rauzan-

Ségla is again rivalling the best of

Bordeaux, producing solid, finely

crafted reds with wonderfully

integrated fruit density and racy

tannins. This is one of the most

consistent-quality top produc-

ers in the Médoc at the moment.

The owners of Chanel control the

property, along with Saint-Émilion’s

Château Canon.

www.rauzan-segla.com

CHÂTEAU RAUZAN-SÉGLA

66


GRAND TASTING

Château Sénéjac Haut-Médoc 2000A subtle, pretty wine with fine tannins and a chocolate and berry character. Medium body with a dusty texture and a fruity finish. Needs decanting. Drink now. (90 points)

Château Sénéjac Haut-Médoc 2005Gorgeous wine here with ultra-fine tannins and beautiful fruit. Full to medium body with silky tannins and a fruity finish. Subtle and refined. Drink or hold. (92 points) Château Sénéjac Haut-Médoc 2009Delicious already with polished, velvety tannins. Medium to full body with fresh herbs and a berry, cherry aftertaste. Hard not to drink it all now. (90 points)

WINE COLLECTORS’ DINNER Château Sénéjac Haut-Médoc 2000, Château Sénéjac Haut-Médoc 2005

I have always appreciated the wines

of Château Sénéjac, the popular

estate in the Haut-Médoc. I still

remember a few bottles I drank

years ago of a 1945 from the prop-

erty and it was of amazing quality.

This only proves the history and

potential of the property, which

uses about half cabernet sauvi-

gnon, with the rest merlot and

tiny amounts of cabernet franc

and petit verdot. Recent vintages

are very aromatic with a firm, racy

tannin and fruit combination. I

prefer these well-priced wines with

about five to six years of bottle age.

Sénéjac shares the same owner as

the popular classified growth

Château Talbot.

www.chateau-senejac.com

CHÂTEAU SÉNÉJAC

67


GRAND TASTING

Château Smith Haut Lafitte Pessac-Léognan 2005An impressive nose of spices, dark fruits and fresh forest flowers. Full-bodied, this has a solid core of fruit and super-polished tannins. A fabulous wine, showing great structure and harmony, with a long finish. Beautiful. Better in 2015. (95 points)

Le Petit Haut Lafitte Pessac-Léognan 2009Gorgeous nose of sous bois, spices, chocolate and meat follows through to a full body, with velvety tannins and a long, caressing finish. Elegant with beautiful length. Try in 2017. (93 points)

Château Smith Haut Lafitte Pessac-Léognan White 2010Wonderfully complex nose in this white, with ripe lemon, green papaya, lime peel and lots of ripe yellow peach. Full and focused, it offers a beautiful, ripe acidity and silky texture on the palate. (97 points)


Château Smith Haut Lafitte Pessac-Léognan 1998 Now shows plums, earth and light chocolate character, and lovely balance. It’s full- to medium-bodied with fine tannins and a very pretty finish. Just right now. Enjoy. (93 points)

Château Smith Haut Lafitte Pessac-Léognan White 2010

I am not sure anyone two dec-

ades ago would have believed

the improvement in the wines at

Smith Haut Lafitte since Daniel

and Florence Cathiard bought the

property in 1990. The couple has

spared nothing in making two of

the top wines of Bordeaux – the

Smith white and red. The white,

mostly sauvignon blanc, shows

superb richness and depth of fruit

but remains lively and fresh with

wonderful intensity. The red,

primarily cabernet sauvignon,

displays extremely polished tan-

nins and integrated fruit. It’s about

harmony in both wines. They also

make second wines, one being the

Le Petit Haut Lafitte, which is a

selection of grapes from young

vines on the estate. I believe this

Pessac-Léognan can get better still.

www.smith-haut-lafitte.com

CHÂTEAU SMITH HAUT LAFITTE

68


GRAND TASTING Château Suduiraut Sauternes 2001Starting to open now with dried lemon, meringue, pineapple and honey. Full and very sweet with a spicy character. Long finish with a tangy acidity. Already beautiful. (93 points)

Château Suduiraut Sauternes 2003A wonderful, fascinating white with a tangy, sweet-and-sour character. Full and very sweet with a character of dried citrus, with orange marmalade underlying it. Long and so delicious already. Lovely balance for such a ripe finish. Can age forever but why wait? (96 points)

Château Suduiraut Sauternes 2005What a wine for the vintage, with spice and beeswax undertones. Then dried citrus fruit, very intense. Full and wild with so much spicy character and a wonderful intensity. Powerful. Perhaps the best 2005 Sauternes? (97 points)

WINE COLLECTORS’ DINNER Château Suduiraut Sauternes 2001, Château Suduiraut Sauternes 2003

Château Suduiraut is one of

the great names of Sauternes,

along with the likes of d’Yquem,

Rieussec, Climens and Guiraud.

These monumental sweet wines

show an amazing freshness and

richness yet remain agile and lively.

The Suduiraut has a more refined,

almost feminine style to it and gives

a wonderful persistence on the pal-

ate when drinking. The best wines

from Suduiraut, which are almost

all sémillon, have been in the last

decade (some are being served at

this event). Suduiraut is part of

AXA Millésimes group, whose win-

eries include Pichon Longueville

Baron, Petit-Village and Pibran in

Bordeaux as well as Burgundy’s

Domaine de l’Arlot and Portugal’s

Quinta do Noval.

www.suduiraut.com

CHÂTEAU SUDUIRAUT

69


GRAND TASTING

Château Talbot Saint-Julien 2000This is a beautiful red now with plums, roses and blackberries on the nose and palate. Full body with wonderfully integrated tannins that caress your palate. So beautiful. Drink now. (93 points)

Château Talbot Saint-Julien 2005Complex aromas of chocolate, currants, berries and sweet tobacco. Full body with fully integrated tannins that give a silky texture. Lovely tannins, fruit and acid balance. Just opening now. Drink or hold. (93 points)

Château Talbot Saint-Julien 2006Sweet-tobacco, light jam and cherry character on the nose. Full body with silky tannins and a fruity finish. Enticing aftertaste of Indian spices and berries. Drink now or hold. (91 points)


Château Talbot Saint-Julien 2000, Château Talbot Saint-Julien 2006

It should come as no surprise that

this Saint-Julien classified growth

has a big following in Asia. It’s one

of the most drinkable and satisfying

reds from Bordeaux, year in, year

out. And it makes wines of consist-

ently outstanding quality – even old

bottles from the 1950s and 1960s

are still beautiful to drink. The large

estate, with about 107 hectares of

vineyard, is 67 per cent cabernet

sauvignon and 27 per cent merlot

with a tiny amount of cabernet

franc and petit verdot. Some white

grapes are also planted. The family-

owned property employs some of

the best winemaking talent in the

region, with consulting oenologists

Jacques Boissenot and Stéphane

Derenoncourt on the team. Its sister

estate is Château Sénéjac.

www.chateau-talbot.com

CHÂTEAU TALBOT

70


GRAND TASTING

Château Villemaurine Saint-Émilion 2009I like the aromas of meat and dark fruits that follow through to a full body, with silky tannins and a fruity finish. Try in 2016 but fun to taste now. (91 points) Château Villemaurine Saint-Émilion 2010A ripe, juicy wine with dried strawberry and hints of earth. Full body with velvety tannins. Delicious finish. Sweet fruit at the end. Drink or hold. (92 points)

Château Villemaurine Saint-Émilion Les Angelots 2010The second wine of Villemaurine, this is already so balanced and approachable for a beautiful 2010. It’s full-bodied with fine tannins and a berry, light earth and cedar character. Better in 2016.(90 points)

WINE COLLECTORS’ DINNER Château Villemaurine Saint-Émilion 2009, Château Villemaurine Saint-Émilion 2010

I have known the wines of

Villemaurine in Saint-Émilion

since the 1980s but it wasn’t until

recently that they have consistently

reached outstanding quality. This

is almost entirely due to Bordeaux

wine merchant Justin Onclin, who

bought the seven-hectare estate in

2007. He invested in a new win-

ery and fine-tuned his vineyards,

which are almost entirely merlot.

Onclin, who is working with one of

Bordeaux’s top consulting oenolo-

gists, Stéphane Derenoncourt, also

owns another property in Saint-

Émilion, Clos Larcis, and Branas

Grand Poujeaux in Moulis. The

future of fine winemaking is bright

for this estate considering the qual-

ity of the young wines presented at

this event.

www.villemaurine.com

CHÂTEAU VILLEMAURINE

71


GRAND TASTING

Clos des Jacobins Saint-Émilion 2004Decadent aromas of meat, fresh herbs and dark fruit. Turns to dark fruits. Full body, with silky tannins and a pretty tannin, acidity and fruit tension to this wine. Very enjoyable now. (92 points)

Clos des Jacobins Saint-Émilion 2005Classy, subtle aromas of blackberries, currants and spices follow through to a full body, with fine tannins and a fresh finish. Wonderfully subtle and refined. Drink or hold. (94 points)

Clos des Jacobins Saint-Émilion 2006A rich, decadent 2006 with leafy, blackberry, stony aromas that follow through to a full body, with silky tannins and a long finish. Very integrated and seamless texture. Extremely well done for the vintage. Drink now. (93 points)


Clos des Jacobins Saint-Émilion 2004, Clos des Jacobins Saint-Émilion 2006

Clos des Jacobins seldom makes

anything but outstanding wines

but it remains obscure compared

to the other top producers of Saint-

Émilion. I have had exceptional

wines from the 1940s as well as

the 1980s from here. However, it’s

the wines of the past decade that

are the most intriguing. Bernard

Decoster bought the property in

2004 and is determined to make

the 8.5-hectare estate’s best wines

ever. The vineyards are planted

with about three-quarters merlot

and a quarter cabernet franc, with a

tiny amount of cabernet sauvignon.

Perhaps the high percentage of mer-

lot gives the wines such wonderful

depth of fruit and an almost seam-

less texture of tannins.

www.closdesjacobins.com

CLOS DES JACOBINS

72


GRAND TASTING Domaine de Chevalier Pessac-Léognan 2000This offers a complex nose of sweet tobacco and stones, with red fruits such as plums, as well as a smoky note on the nose. Full and juicy with a tobacco and berry character that turns almost tea-like on the finish. This has medium tannins and is just starting to come around. Still needs another two or three years to open, but this is already nice. Pull the cork after 2013. (93 points)

Domaine de Chevalier Pessac-Léognan 2005This is really pure and fruity with flowers and stones. Full and dense but still a bit tight. Not really giving much at the moment, but beautifully balanced and silky, and opening up to a long, long finish. This is excellent. Pull the cork after 2015. (94 points)

Domaine de Chevalier Pessac-Léognan White 2005This is as layered and rich as a red wine but shows intense character of minerals, honey, lemon and stones on the nose and palate. Full body with a pretty depth of fruit and a long, long finish. Strength with beauty. Drink or hold. (96 points)

WINE COLLECTORS’ DINNER Domaine de Chevalier Pessac-Léognan 2000, Domaine de Chevalier Pessac-Léognan White 2005

Domaine de Chevalier has a long

history of producing age-worthy

reds and whites. I have drunk

whites from this Pessac-Léognan

estate with 30 and 40 years of

bottle age and the wines were

still fabulous. Reds from the 1950s

and 1960s are equally excellent

now. The only problem is finding

them. DC is highly sought-after by

wine collectors and few part with

bottles, preferring to drink them

themselves. Both red and white

have incredible depths of fruit and

unique character from the stony soil

of the vineyards. Recent vintages

seem to hark back to the halcyon

days of great winemaking from this

estate. In fact, the last eight or nine

years may be the best vintages ever

from here.

www.domainedechevalier.com

DOMAINE DE CHEVALIER

73


GRAND TASTING

Domaine de L’A Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 2005 Energetic red with blueberries with hints of minerals. It’s full and soft with round tannins and a crisp, caressing finish. Beautiful now but will improve with age. Always been a sexy wine. (93 points) Domaine de L’A Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 2009A wine with juicy fruit and hints of fresh mushrooms. Medium to full body with velvety tannins and a succulent finish. Better in 2015 but beautiful to taste now. (92 points)

Domaine de L’A Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 2010Lots of dark chocolate, berry and limestone character in this wine. Full and velvety with round tannins and a pretty chewiness. Better in 2016 but delicious to try now. (93 points)

WINE COLLECTORS’ DINNER Domaine de L’A Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 2005, Domaine de L’A Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 2009

Stéphane Derenoncourt may be

known in the wine world as a rock

star among consulting oenologists,

but many people don’t realise that

he makes an excellent wine at his

small estate in a less fashionable

appellation of Bordeaux called

Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux. His

winemaking wife Christine gives

a helping hand, as did a number

of friends who helped him buy the

estate in 1999. The combination of

clay and limestone in his vineyards

gives his wines a firmness and struc-

ture as well as intense fruitiness

with a mineral undertone. They

are usually about 70 per cent merlot

with most of the rest cabernet franc

and a dash of cabernet sauvignon.

Domaine de L’A reds give wines

costing three or four times the price

competition for quality.

DOMAINE DE L’A

74


GRAND TASTING

Liber Pater Graves 2009 Chewy yet soft and velvety-textured. Full-bodied with loads of fruit and intense tannins. Mouth-puckering. Toasted and smoky too. Slight grilled-meat character. Opulent and poetic. Try after 2017. (93 points)

Liber Pater Graves 2010 Intense aromas of blueberries, blackberries and Moroccan spices such as cardamom. Full body with super-integrated tannins and a long, long finish. A beautiful, balanced wine with super-fine tannins. A tiny-production red where everything is handmade in the most Burgundian way. Such harmony and balance. Better in 2016 but a fascinating wine to sip. (95 points)

Liber Pater Graves White 2010This white has wonderful richness and depth of fruit. Full body with a very dense palate of dried pineapple and mango. Hints of cream and toasted oak. Oily. This is almost all sémillon from 80-year-old vines, and has the density of a Montrachet. Tiny production from ungrafted vines. This is one of 582 bottles. Drink or hold. (96 points)


Liber Pater Graves 2009, Liber Pater Graves White 2010

Liber Pater owner Loïc Pasquet

makes tiny-production, unique

wines from a few hectares of vine-

yards in the Graves. The red and

white are made from ancient vines

with an average age of about 80

years. Some are not grafted onto

American rootstock. The grapes are

organically grown. The wines are

handmade, more Burgundian than

Bordelais. The barrels used in the

ageing are 100 per cent new oak.

The wine possesses an incredible

depth of fruit and intense flavours

as well as structure. The red is 60

per cent cabernet sauvignon and

40 per cent merlot and the white

mostly sémillon. Annual red pro-

duction is about 2,400 bottles. Only

a few hundred bottles of the white

are made. It’s no wonder this unique

winery is named after the ancient

Roman god of viticulture, fertility

and freedom.

www.liber-pater.com

LIBER PATER

75


JS.com ad.indd 1 13/05/2013 12:06 PM

TASTE WONDERFUL, DRINKABLE VINTAGES FROM

DOZENS OF SOME OF THE BEST NAMES IN BORDEAUX. JAMES SUCKLING

RATED ALL THE WINES 90 POINTS, OR MORE. CHECK OUT THE

TABLE PLAN. SELECT WINES FOR TASTING BY WINERY NAME

OR 100-POINTS RATING

GWB_wineguide - event section1.indd 77 14/05/2013 4:02 PM

33

23

24

26

25

2728

29

30

31

32

3534 36 37

38

39

40

41

42

43

44

45

WATER STATION

CHEESESTATION

CHEESESTATION

GLASS STATION

1 DOMAINE DE CHEVALIER

2 CHÂTEAU GUIRAUD

3 CHÂTEAU SUDUIRAUT

4 CHÂTEAU PICHON

LONGUEVILLE BARON

5 CHÂTEAU DU TERTRE

6 CHÂTEAU PICHON-

LONGUEVILLE-LALANDE

7 CHÂTEAU PONTET-CANET

8 CHÂTEAU DUCRU-

BEAUCAILLOU

9 CHÂTEAU LA FLEUR

MORANGE

10 CHÂTEAU CANTEMERLE

11 CHÂTEAU LYNCH-BAGES

12 CHÂTEAU ORMES DE PEZ

13 CHÂTEAU HAUT-BAILLY

14 CHÂTEAU GISCOURS

15 CHÂTEAU CARIGNAN

16 CHÂTEAU BATAILLEY

17 CHÂTEAU CALON-SÉGUR

18 CHÂTEAU FAUGÈRES

19 CHÂTEAU SÉNÉJAC

20 CHÂTEAU TALBOT

21 CHÂTEAU LA FLEUR-

PÉTRUS

22 CHÂTEAU DALEM

23 CHÂTEAU POMEAUX

24 CHÂTEAU GIGAULT

Floor plan

78


RE

CE

PT

ION

13

14

16

15

1718

19

20

21

22

1 32 4 6

7

8

9

10

11

12

5

ENQUIRY COUNTERS

CHEESESTATION

E N T R A N C E

25 CHÂTEAU LAGRANGE

26 CHÂTEAU BRANE-

CANTENAC

27 DOMAINE DE L’A

28 CHÂTEAU PALMER

29 CLOS DES JACOBINS

30 CHÂTEAU VILLEMAURINE

31 CHÂTEAU CANON

32 CHÂTEAU RAUZAN-SÉGLA

33 CHÂTEAU SMITH-HAUT-

LAFITTE

34 LIBER PATER

35 CHÂTEAU LA MISSION

HAUT-BRION

36 CHÂTEAU HAUT-BRION

37 CHÂTEAU MALARTIC-

LAGRAVIÈRE

38 CHÂTEAU HAUT BRISSON

39 CHÂTEAU CLERC MILON

40 CHÂTEAU MOUTON

ROTHSCHILD

41 CHÂTEAU LAROQUE

42 CHÂTEAU HAUT-

MARBUZET

43 CHÂTEAU MALESCOT-

SAINT-EXUPÉRY

44 CHÂTEAU MONTROSE

45 CHÂTEAU PRIEURÉ-

LICHINE

79


CHÂTEAU BATAILLEY 16

CHÂTEAU BRANE-CANTENAC 26

CHÂTEAU CALON-SÉGUR 17

CHÂTEAU CANON 31

CHÂTEAU CANTEMERLE 10

CHÂTEAU CARIGNAN 15

CHÂTEAU CLERC MILON 39

CHÂTEAU DALEM 22

CHÂTEAU DU TERTRE 5

CHÂTEAU DUCRU-BEAUCAILLOU 8

CHÂTEAU FAUGÈRES 18

CHÂTEAU GIGAULT 24

CHÂTEAU GISCOURS 14

CHÂTEAU GUIRAUD 2

CHÂTEAU HAUT BRISSON 38

CHÂTEAU HAUT-BAILLY 13

CHÂTEAU HAUT-BRION 36

CHÂTEAU HAUT-MARBUZET 42

CHÂTEAU LA FLEUR MORANGE 9

CHÂTEAU LA FLEUR-PÉTRUS 21

CHÂTEAU LA MISSION HAUT-BRION 35

CHÂTEAU LAGRANGE 25

CHÂTEAU LAROQUE 41

CHÂTEAU LYNCH-BAGES 11

CHÂTEAU MALARTIC-LAGRAVIÈRE 37

CHÂTEAU MALESCOT-SAINT-EXUPÉRY 43

CHÂTEAU MONTROSE 44

CHÂTEAU MOUTON ROTHSCHILD 40

CHÂTEAU ORMES DE PEZ 12

CHÂTEAU PALMER 28

CHÂTEAU PICHON LONGUEVILLE BARON 4

CHÂTEAU PICHON-LONGUEVILLE-LALANDE 6

CHÂTEAU POMEAUX 23

CHÂTEAU PONTET-CANET 7

CHÂTEAU PRIEURÉ-LICHINE 45

CHÂTEAU RAUZAN-SÉGLA 32

CHÂTEAU SÉNÉJAC 19

CHÂTEAU SMITH-HAUT-LAFITTE 33

CHÂTEAU SUDUIRAUT 3

CHÂTEAU TALBOT 20

CHÂTEAU VILLEMAURINE 30

CLOS DES JACOBINS 29

DOMAINE DE CHEVALIER 1

DOMAINE DE L’A 27

LIBER PATER 34

CHÂTEAU TABLE

Index: Winery


POINTS WINE CHÂTEAU TABLE

Index: By 100-Points Rating (James Suckling)

98 CHÂTEAU MALESCOT-SAINT-EXUPÉRY MARGAUX 2009 CHÂTEAU MALESCOT-SAINT-EXUPÉRY 43

98 CHÂTEAU LA FLEUR-PÉTRUS POMEROL 2010 CHÂTEAU LA FLEUR-PÉTRUS 21

97 CHÂTEAU GUIRAUD SAUTERNES 2005 CHÂTEAU GUIRAUD 2

97 CHÂTEAU MONTROSE SAINT-ESTÈPHE 2003 CHÂTEAU MONTROSE 44

97 CHÂTEAU SMITH-HAUT-LAFITTE PESSAC-LÉOGNAN WHITE 2010


97 CHÂTEAU SUDUIRAUT SAUTERNES 2005 CHÂTEAU SUDUIRAUT 3



96 CHÂTEAU PICHON LONGUEVILLE BARON PAUILLAC 2003



96 DOMAINE DE CHEVALIER PESSAC-LÉOGNAN WHITE 2005

DOMAINE DE CHEVALIER 1

96 LIBER PATER GRAVES WHITE 2010 LIBER PATER 34

95 CHÂTEAU CANTEMERLE HAUT-MÉDOC 2009 CHÂTEAU CANTEMERLE 10

95 CHÂTEAU DUCRU-BEAUCAILLOU SAINT-JULIEN 2006 CHÂTEAU DUCRU-BEAUCAILLOU 8



95 CHÂTEAU LAGRANGE SAINT-JULIEN 2005 CHÂTEAU LAGRANGE 25

95 CHÂTEAU LYNCH-BAGES PAUILLAC 2000 CHÂTEAU LYNCH-BAGES 11

95 CHÂTEAU ORMES DE PEZ SAINT-ESTÈPHE 2010 CHÂTEAU ORMES DE PEZ 12

95 CHÂTEAU PICHON-LONGUEVILLE-LALANDE PAUILLAC 2003


95 CHÂTEAU SMITH-HAUT-LAFITTE PESSAC-LÉOGNAN 2005


95 LIBER PATER GRAVES 2010 LIBER PATER 34

94 CHÂTEAU CALON-SÉGUR SAINT-ESTÈPHE 2003 CHÂTEAU CALON-SÉGUR 17


94 CHÂTEAU HAUT-BAILLY PESSAC-LÉOGNAN 2000 CHÂTEAU HAUT-BAILLY 13

94 LA CHAPELLE DE LA MISSION HAUT-BRION PESSAC-LÉOGNAN 2009

CHÂTEAU LA MISSION HAUT-BRION 35


94 CHÂTEAU MALARTIC-LAGRAVIERE PESSAC-LÉOGNAN WHITE 2010

CHÂTEAU MALARTIC LAGRAVIÈRE 37

94 LE PETIT MOUTON DE MOUTON ROTHSCHILD PAUILLAC 2009


94 CHÂTEAU PALMER MARGAUX 2005 CHÂTEAU PALMER 28

94 CLOS DES JACOBINS SAINT-ÉMILION 2005 CLOS DES JACOBINS 29

94 DOMAINE DE CHEVALIER PESSAC-LÉOGNAN 2005 DOMAINE DE CHEVALIER 1


93 CHÂTEAU CANON SAINT-ÉMILION 1998 CHÂTEAU CANON 31


93 CHÂTEAU CARIGNAN PRIMA PREMIÈRES CÔTES DE BORDEAUX 2009


93 CHÂTEAU PEBY FAUGÈRES 2004 CHÂTEAU FAUGÈRES/PEBY FAUGÈRES 18

93 CHÂTEAU PEBY FAUGÈRES 2006 CHÂTEAU FAUGÈRES/PEBY FAUGÈRES 18

93 CHÂTEAU GISCOURS MARGAUX 2003 CHÂTEAU GISCOURS 14

93 CHÂTEAU HAUT-BRISSON SAINT-ÉMILION LA RESERVE 2009

CHÂTEAU HAUT-BRISSON 38

93 LA CLARTÉ DE HAUT-BRION PESSAC-LÉOGNAN WHITE 2010


93 CHÂTEAU HAUT-MARBUZET SAINT-ESTÈPHE 2005 CHÂTEAU HAUT-MARBUZET 42




Index: By 100-Points Rating (James Suckling)



93 ALTER EGO DE PALMER MARGAUX 2009 CHÂTEAU PALMER 28



93 CHÂTEAU POMEAUX POMEROL 2005 CHÂTEAU POMEAUX 23

93 CHÂTEAU PONTET-CANET PAUILLAC 2006 CHÂTEAU PONTET-CANET 7

93 CHÂTEAU PRIEURÉ-LICHINE MARGAUX 2005 CHÂTEAU PRIEURÉ-LICHINE 45



93 CHÂTEAU RAUZAN-SÉGLA MARGAUX 2000 CHÂTEAU RAUZAN-SÉGLA 32


93 LE PETIT HAUT LAFITTE PESSAC-LÉOGNAN 2009 CHÂTEAU SMITH-HAUT-LAFITTE 33


93 CHÂTEAU TALBOT SAINT-JULIEN 2000 CHÂTEAU TALBOT 20


93 CLOS DES JACOBINS SAINT-ÉMILION 2006 CLOS DES JACOBINS 29

93 DOMAINE DE L’A CASTILLON CÔTES DE BORDEAUX 2010

DOMAINE DE L’A 27


DOMAINE DE L’A 27

93 DOMAINE DE CHEVALIER PESSAC-LÉOGNAN 2000 DOMAINE DE CHEVALIER 1


93 LIBER PATER GRAVES 2009 LIBER PATER 34

92 CHÂTEAU BATAILLEY PAUILLAC 2003 CHÂTEAU BATAILLEY 16

92 CHÂTEAU BRANE-CANTENAC MARGAUX 2000 CHÂTEAU BRANE-CANTENAC 26





92 CHÂTEAU CLERC MILON PAUILLAC 2000 CHÂTEAU CLERC MILON 39


92 CHÂTEAU DALEM FRONSAC 2010 CHÂTEAU DALEM 22

92 CHÂTEAU DU TERTRE MARGAUX 2005 CHÂTEAU DU TERTRE 5



92 CHÂTEAU FAUGÈRES SAINT-ÉMILION 2006 CHÂTEAU FAUGÈRES/PEBY FAUGÈRES 18

92 CHÂTEAU GIGAULT BLAYE-CÔTES-DE-BORDEAUX CUVÉE VIVA 2009

CHÂTEAU GIGAULT 24



92 CHÂTEAU LAROQUE SAINT-ÉMILION 2005 CHÂTEAU LAROQUE 41















92 CHÂTEAU SÉNÉJAC HAUT-MÉDOC 2005 CHÂTEAU SÉNÉJAC 19

92 CHÂTEAU VILLEMAURINE SAINT-EMILION 2010 CHÂTEAU VILLEMAURINE 30

92 CLOS DES JACOBINS SAINT-EMILION 2004 CLOS DES JACOBINS 29


DOMAINE DE L’A 27






91 CHÂTEAU GIGAULT PREMIÈRES COTES DE BLAYE CUVÉE VIVA 2005

CHÂTEAU GIGAULT 24





91 CHÂTEAU LA FLEUR MORANGE SAINT-ÉMILION 2004 CHÂTEAU LA FLEUR MORANGE 9


91 CHÂTEAU MALARTIC-LAGRAVIÈRE PESSAC-LÉOGNAN 2008




91 CHÂTEAU PALMER MARGAUX 1999 CHÂTEAU PALMER 28




91 CHÂTEAU VILLEMAURINE SAINT-ÉMILION 2009 CHÂTEAU VILLEMAURINE 30








90 CHÂTEAU GIGAULT PREMIÈRES COTES DE BLAYE CUVÉE VIVA 2008

CHÂTEAU GIGAULT 24


90 CHÂTEAU HAUT-BRISSON SAINT-ÉMILION LA RESERVE 2007

CHÂTEAU HAUT-BRISSON 38

90 CHÂTEAU HAUT-BRISSON SAINT-ÉMILION 2009 CHÂTEAU HAUT-BRISSON 38

90 LE CLARENCE DE HAUT-BRION PESSAC-LÉOGNAN 2008




90 CHÂTEAU MALARTIC-LAGRAVIÈRE PESSAC-LÉOGNAN 2005








90 CHÂTEAU VILLEMAURINE SAINT-ÉMILION LES ANGELOTS 2010

CHÂTEAU VILLEMAURINE 30

90 CLARENCE DILLON WINES BORDEAUX CLARENDELLE 2008

DOMAINE CLARENCE DILLON 35


WINE TASTING / SCORECARD

TABLE #: WINERY:

VINTAGE: WINE:

COLOUR

white

Pale / Light Yellow / Yellow / Gold /

Dark Gold / Other

red

Purple / Ruby / Brick / Amber /

Brown / Other

sparkling

Coarse Bead / Medium / Fine /

Other

score

C 10.5 | C+ 11.5 | B 12 | B+ 13

A 13.5 | A+ 14 | A++ 15

STRUCTURE

white

Light / Medium / Full / Fruity / Crisp / Dry /

Off-Dry / Other

red

Light / Medium / Full / Fruity / Tannic / Silky /

Round / Other

sparkling

Light / Medium / Full / Soft / Fresh / Clean /

Other

score

C 17.5 | C+ 18.5 | B 20 | B+ 21

A 22.5 | A+ 24 | A++ 25

AROMAS

white

Citrus / Apples / Tropical Fruits / Minerals /

Vanilla / Other

red

Berries / Cherries / Vanilla / Coffee /

Earth / Spices / Other

sparkling

Biscuits / Bread Dough / Yeast /

Apples / Other

score

C 17.5 | C+ 18.5 | B 20 | B+ 21

A 22.5 | A+ 24 | A++ 25

OVERALL IMPRESSION

white

Average / Good / Very Good / Outstanding /

Exceptional

red


Exceptional

sparkling


Exceptional

score

C 24.5 | C+ 26.5 | B 28 | B+ 30

A 31.5 | A+ 33 | A++ 35

TOTAL SCORE (OUT OF 100)NOTES

84



TABLE #: WINERY:

VINTAGE: WINE:

COLOUR

white


Dark Gold / Other

red


Brown / Other

sparkling


Other

score

C 10.5 | C+ 11.5 | B 12 | B+ 13

A 13.5 | A+ 14 | A++ 15

STRUCTURE

white


Off-Dry / Other

red


Round / Other

sparkling


Other

score

C 17.5 | C+ 18.5 | B 20 | B+ 21

A 22.5 | A+ 24 | A++ 25

AROMAS

white


Vanilla / Other

red



sparkling


Apples / Other

score

C 17.5 | C+ 18.5 | B 20 | B+ 21

A 22.5 | A+ 24 | A++ 25

OVERALL IMPRESSION

white


Exceptional

red


Exceptional

sparkling


Exceptional

score

C 24.5 | C+ 26.5 | B 28 | B+ 30

A 31.5 | A+ 33 | A++ 35


85



TABLE #: WINERY:

VINTAGE: WINE:

COLOUR

white


Dark Gold / Other

red


Brown / Other

sparkling


Other

score

C 10.5 | C+ 11.5 | B 12 | B+ 13

A 13.5 | A+ 14 | A++ 15

STRUCTURE

white


Off-Dry / Other

red


Round / Other

sparkling


Other

score

C 17.5 | C+ 18.5 | B 20 | B+ 21

A 22.5 | A+ 24 | A++ 25

AROMAS

white


Vanilla / Other

red



sparkling


Apples / Other

score

C 17.5 | C+ 18.5 | B 20 | B+ 21

A 22.5 | A+ 24 | A++ 25

OVERALL IMPRESSION

white


Exceptional

red


Exceptional

sparkling


Exceptional

score

C 24.5 | C+ 26.5 | B 28 | B+ 30

A 31.5 | A+ 33 | A++ 35


86



TABLE #: WINERY:

VINTAGE: WINE:

COLOUR

white


Dark Gold / Other

red


Brown / Other

sparkling


Other

score

C 10.5 | C+ 11.5 | B 12 | B+ 13

A 13.5 | A+ 14 | A++ 15

STRUCTURE

white


Off-Dry / Other

red


Round / Other

sparkling


Other

score

C 17.5 | C+ 18.5 | B 20 | B+ 21

A 22.5 | A+ 24 | A++ 25

AROMAS

white


Vanilla / Other

red



sparkling


Apples / Other

score

C 17.5 | C+ 18.5 | B 20 | B+ 21

A 22.5 | A+ 24 | A++ 25

OVERALL IMPRESSION

white


Exceptional

red


Exceptional

sparkling


Exceptional

score

C 24.5 | C+ 26.5 | B 28 | B+ 30

A 31.5 | A+ 33 | A++ 35


87



TABLE #: WINERY:

VINTAGE: WINE:

COLOUR

white


Dark Gold / Other

red


Brown / Other

sparkling


Other

score

C 10.5 | C+ 11.5 | B 12 | B+ 13

A 13.5 | A+ 14 | A++ 15

STRUCTURE

white


Off-Dry / Other

red


Round / Other

sparkling


Other

score

C 17.5 | C+ 18.5 | B 20 | B+ 21

A 22.5 | A+ 24 | A++ 25

AROMAS

white


Vanilla / Other

red



sparkling


Apples / Other

score

C 17.5 | C+ 18.5 | B 20 | B+ 21

A 22.5 | A+ 24 | A++ 25

OVERALL IMPRESSION

white


Exceptional

red


Exceptional

sparkling


Exceptional

score

C 24.5 | C+ 26.5 | B 28 | B+ 30

A 31.5 | A+ 33 | A++ 35


88


Lalique GWB May 13.indd 1 10/05/2013 6:29 PM

great wines of bordeaux contains everything you need to know about buying, investing in and enjoying the finest bottles from the world’s most renowned wine region. A collaboration between Hong Kong Tatler and acclaimed wine critic James Suckling, it’s an essential addition to any serious wine library.

hong kong tatler was established in 1977, and for decades it has been the city’s most trusted luxury-lifestyle magazine. The Tatler name is synonymous with taste, elegance and influence.

james suckling is one of the world’s foremost wine experts, having tasted more than 150,000 over three decades. His dedicated website, www.jamessuckling.com, explores the best in wine, food, travel and more.

GWB FINAL cover.indd 3 14/05/2013 2:50 PM

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hong kong tatler & james suckling’s guide to · edipresse hong kong ltd 6/f, guardian house,...

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