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All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go! TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET Hong Kong THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Emily Matchar, Piera Chen ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Page 1: Hong Kong - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/hong-kong-17-contents.pdf · Survival Guide 257 Hong Kong Maps 296 4 ... Dinner Dunk and dip Hong Kong–style at Woo Cow

“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over.

So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

Hong Kong

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Emily Matchar, Piera Chen

Plan Your Trip 12

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Page 2: Hong Kong - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/hong-kong-17-contents.pdf · Survival Guide 257 Hong Kong Maps 296 4 ... Dinner Dunk and dip Hong Kong–style at Woo Cow

ContentsContents

Welcome to Hong Kong .....................4

Hong Kong’s Top 16 ......6

What’s New .................. 17

Need to Know .............. 18

First Time Hong Kong .................. 20

Getting Around ........... 22

Top Itineraries .............24

If You Like... ................. 26

Month By Month ......... 29

With Kids ..................... 32

Like a Local ................. 35

For Free ........................37

Eating ......................... 39Drinking & Nightlife .....................46Entertainment ..........50Shopping .................... 53Sports & Activities ...58

Plan Your Trip page 1

Understand Hong Kong 229

Survival Guide 257

Hong Kong Maps 296

Plan Your Trip 4

Explore Hong Kong 62

Transport .................. 258

Directory A–Z ........... 267

Language ...................274

Index .......................... 285

Hong Kong Today .........................230

History ....................... 232

Arts ............................ 242

Cinema ...................... 249

Architecture .............. 252

Religion & Belief ....... 255

Neighbourhoods at a Glance .................. 64

Hong Kong Island: Central ......................... 66

Hong Kong Island: The Peak & the Northwest ..79

Hong Kong Island: Wan Chai & the Northeast .................... 99

Hong Kong Island: Aberdeen & the South ..........................120

Kowloon......................128

New Territories ..........153

Outlying Islands ......... 174

Macau .........................192

Sleeping ....................217

Page 3: Hong Kong - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/hong-kong-17-contents.pdf · Survival Guide 257 Hong Kong Maps 296 4 ... Dinner Dunk and dip Hong Kong–style at Woo Cow

HO

WA

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0PX

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ELY P

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ET ©

Kowloon

Hong Kong Island:Wan Chai &

the Northeast

Hong Kong Island:Central

Hong Kong Island:Aberdeen &the South

Hong Kong Island:The Peak &

the Northwestp79

p66

p128

p99

p120

(left) Golden pagoda at Nan Lian Garden (p134)

(above) Fishmonger, Bowrington Road Market (p111)

(right) Figurines for sale, Cat Street (p83)

Page 4: Hong Kong - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/hong-kong-17-contents.pdf · Survival Guide 257 Hong Kong Maps 296 4 ... Dinner Dunk and dip Hong Kong–style at Woo Cow

Top ItinerariesDay OneThe Peak & the Northwest (p79)

M Catch the legendary Peak Tram up to Victoria Peak for stunning views of

the city. Then descend and walk to Sheung Wan, checking out the shopping options along the way. Stop at Man Mo Temple for a taste of history and explore the burgeoning community on Tai Ping Shan St.

Kowloon (p128)

R Take the Star Ferry to Kowloon. En-joy the views along Tsim Sha Tsui

East Promenade and savour your stroll to the Museum of History where you’ll get some context on your day’s impressions.

The Peak & the Northwest (p79)

N Take the tram to Soho for drinks, dancing and live music. If there’s

an indie gig on at Hidden Agenda, head over there by MTR, grab a few beers from a nearby convenience store, and hang with the hipsters.

Day TwoWan Chai & the Northeast (p99)

M Embrace (manufactured) nature at lovely Hong Kong Park, not forget-

ting to check out the Museum of Teaware, then head over to Queen’s Rd East to ex-plore the sights and streets of this older part of Wan Chai. Then take the tram to Cause-way Bay for some shopping. Don’t miss the speciality shops of Caroline Haven.

Kowloon (p128)

R Take a peek inside Chungking Mansions. Then relax and people-

watch at the Tsim Sha Tsui East Prom-enade if construction has finished, or the Middle Road Children’s Playground if you have a child, before taking afternoon tea in style at the Peninsula. If the queue is too long, the InterContinental Lobby Lounge serves tea too, with excellent harbour views. After that bus it north to Yau Ma Tei, where you can check out Tin Hau Temple, the Jade Market and traditional shops along Shanghai Street.

Kowloon (p128)

N Have your fortune told and catch some Cantonese opera at Temple

Street Night Market. Then it’s on to at-mospheric Butler for a crafted Japanese cocktail or two.

Dinner Dunk and dip Hong Kong–style at Woo Cow (p142).

Lunch Elegant Luk Yu Tea House (p89) serves great dim sum.

Dinner Temple Street Night Market (p132) for cheap food under the stars.

Lunch Fortune Kitchen (p111) serves delicious Cantonese homecooking.

24 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Page 5: Hong Kong - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/hong-kong-17-contents.pdf · Survival Guide 257 Hong Kong Maps 296 4 ... Dinner Dunk and dip Hong Kong–style at Woo Cow

Day ThreeAberdeen & the South (p120)

M Take the bus to Aberdeen for a cruise on the lovely Aberdeen Har-

bour. Follow with shopping (for bargain designer furniture and clothing) at Hori-zon Plaza on the island of Ap Lei Chau. Coffee and cakes are available at several of the furniture shops here. If it’s a Saturday, take a boozy tour of Hong Kong’s own brewery, Young Master Ale.

New Territories (p153)

R Make your way from Aberdeen to Sai Kung after lunch. Check out

Sai Kung Town or hop on a ferry at the

waterfront to a nearby beach for a late afternoon dip.

Kowloon (p128)

N If it’s a clear night, hit the Ritz Carlton for stellar drinks at Ozone,

the world’s highest bar. If it’s cloudy, Aqua in Tsim Sha Tsui is a fabulous alternative. After a few drinks, late-night dim sum at One Dim Sum may be music to your ears.

Day FourMacau (p192)

M Hop on an early boat to Macau. When you arrive, take a bus or a

cab to the legendary Long Wa Teahouse. Have dim sum for breakfast. Buy some tea leaves from them before you go and ex-plore the bustling Red Market next door. Have a leisurely stroll to the cultural parts of Northern Macau Peninsula to work off your breakfast. Check out the designer shops and the cobbled streets of the atmos-pheric St Lazarus District, and buy a few souvenirs.

Macau (p192)

R Explore the sights around the Largo do Senado. Walk along Rua

Central through much of the Unesco-listed Historic Centre of Macau, including the ruins of the Church of St Paul. Nibble on Portuguese egg tarts and almond cookies

as you do so. Then head to lovely Taipa Village for a look.

Macau (p192)

N Check out the brand-new Studio City casino complex. Try your hand

at the tables or just have a drink at the bar. Then head back to Macau Peninsula to catch the ferry back to Hong Kong.

Dinner Loaf On (p171) for excellent seafood.

Lunch Jumbo Kingdom (p125) for dim sum at a ‘floating’ restaurant.

Dinner António (p214) dishes up sump-tuous Portuguese classics.

Lunch Clube Militar de Macau (p206) for old-school Portuguese dining.

Largo do Senado, Macau

SA

HA

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25PLAN

YOUR TRIP T

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Page 6: Hong Kong - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/hong-kong-17-contents.pdf · Survival Guide 257 Hong Kong Maps 296 4 ... Dinner Dunk and dip Hong Kong–style at Woo Cow

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro/MTR/MRT station

Petrol stationSkytrain/Subway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Mudflat

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

Gate

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

Hong Kong Maps

296 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Page 7: Hong Kong - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/hong-kong-17-contents.pdf · Survival Guide 257 Hong Kong Maps 296 4 ... Dinner Dunk and dip Hong Kong–style at Woo Cow

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MAP INDEX1 Central Hong Kong (p298)

2 Lan Kwai Fong & Soho (p302)

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9 Tsim Sha Tsui (p314)

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11 Yau Ma Tei (p318)

12 Mong Kok (p319)

297

Page 8: Hong Kong - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/hong-kong-17-contents.pdf · Survival Guide 257 Hong Kong Maps 296 4 ... Dinner Dunk and dip Hong Kong–style at Woo Cow

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Page 9: Hong Kong - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/hong-kong-17-contents.pdf · Survival Guide 257 Hong Kong Maps 296 4 ... Dinner Dunk and dip Hong Kong–style at Woo Cow

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Page 10: Hong Kong - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/hong-kong-17-contents.pdf · Survival Guide 257 Hong Kong Maps 296 4 ... Dinner Dunk and dip Hong Kong–style at Woo Cow

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Page 11: Hong Kong - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/hong-kong-17-contents.pdf · Survival Guide 257 Hong Kong Maps 296 4 ... Dinner Dunk and dip Hong Kong–style at Woo Cow

LAN KW

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æ Top Sights (p82) 31 Wang Fu ......................... F4 60 Arch Angel 1 Man Mo Temple ............ A2 32 Yardbird ......................... A3 Antiques......................D4 33 Yat Lok............................G4 61 Chan Shing Kee..............C1 æ Sights (p83) 34 Yung Kee 62 Fang Fong Projects.......C4 2 Cat Street........................A1 Restaurant ..................G5 63 Flow.................................D4 3 Central Police 64 Gallery of the Station..........................E5 û Drinking & Nightlife (p92) Pottery 4 Central–Mid-Levels 35 Angel's Share Workshop.................... E4 Escalator..................... E4 Whisky Bar.................. E4 65 Goods of Desire.............D4 5 Dr Sun Yat-Sen 36 Bar 1911 ..........................D4 66 Grotto Fine Art ...............F7 Museum ...................... B4 37 Bar 42 .............................C4 Honeychurch 6 Graham Street 38 Central Wine Club.........G6 Antiques............ (see 64) Market ......................... E3 39 Club 71............................D3 67 Indosiam ........................C3 7 Jamia Mosque............... C7 40 Dragon-I ......................... F6 68 Karin Weber Gallery...... D3 8 Leung Chun Woon 41 Globe ..............................D4 69 L Plus H ..........................G4 Kee............................... A2 42 Kung Lee ........................D3 70 Lam Gallery....................D3 9 Liangyi Museum.............A1 43 Peak Cafe Bar................ D5 71 Li Yuen Street East 10 PMQ ................................C3 44 Quinary...........................D3 & West .........................G4 45 Roundhouse 72 Linva Tailor .................... E4 ú Eating (p87) Taproom .....................C4 73 Mountain Folkcraft ........F5 Aberdeen St 46 Stockton..........................F7 74 Pearl Lam Galleries.......H5 Social..................(see 10) 47 Studio .............................G6 PMQ .......................(see 10) 11 Bêp...................................F4 48 T:ME................................D3 75 Wattis Fine Art............... E5 12 Butao Ramen..................F4 Tai Lung Fung.......(see 10)

13 Carbone...........................F6 49 Tastings..........................G5 Ø Sports & Activities (p98) 14 Chairman ....................... D2 Tazmania 76 Flawless Hong Kong .....G6 15 Chom Chom ..................D4 Ballroom............ (see 78) Fringe Club........... (see 55) 16 Dumpling Yuan...............F3 50 Three Monkeys.............. B2 77 Happy Foot 17 Flying Pan........................E5 51 Tivo Bar .......................... F6 Reflexology 18 Ho Lee Fuk..................... D3 52 Varga Lounge ................C4 Centre..........................G5 19 Kau Kee Restaurant ..... D2 53 Volar ............................... F6

20 Lan Fong Yuen............... E4 ÿ Sleeping (p220) 21 Little Bao........................ C3 ý Entertainment (p95) 78 Hotel LKF ....................... F6 22 Luk Yu Tea House.........G4 54 Culture Club...................D4 79 Lan Kwai Fong 23 Mak's Noodle..................F3 55 Fringe Club..................... G7 Hotel ............................D2 24 Mana! Fast Slow 56 Peel Fresco ....................D4 80 Mercer .............................C1 Food..............................F4 57 TakeOut Comedy 81 Ovolo NoHo.................... B2 25 Motorino......................... D5 Club..............................D5 82 Putman...........................C2 26 Ser Wong Fun................ E4 83 The Pottinger.................G4 27 Sharkie's .........................F5 þ Shopping (p95)

28 Sushi Kuu.......................G6 58 10 Chancery Lane ï Information 29 Tai Cheong Bakery ....... E4 Gallery ......................... E6 84 Concorde Travel ...........H6 30 The Boss ........................G4 59 Andy Hei.........................C3 85 Rent-a-Mum .................. E4

301

Page 12: Hong Kong - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/hong-kong-17-contents.pdf · Survival Guide 257 Hong Kong Maps 296 4 ... Dinner Dunk and dip Hong Kong–style at Woo Cow

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Page 13: Hong Kong - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/hong-kong-17-contents.pdf · Survival Guide 257 Hong Kong Maps 296 4 ... Dinner Dunk and dip Hong Kong–style at Woo Cow

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Page 14: Hong Kong - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/hong-kong-17-contents.pdf · Survival Guide 257 Hong Kong Maps 296 4 ... Dinner Dunk and dip Hong Kong–style at Woo Cow

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Page 15: Hong Kong - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/hong-kong-17-contents.pdf · Survival Guide 257 Hong Kong Maps 296 4 ... Dinner Dunk and dip Hong Kong–style at Woo Cow

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18 Teakha................................... B4 ï Transport 31 Hong Kong–Macau Ferry Terminal...............................E1

305

Page 16: Hong Kong - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/hong-kong-17-contents.pdf · Survival Guide 257 Hong Kong Maps 296 4 ... Dinner Dunk and dip Hong Kong–style at Woo Cow

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306

Page 17: Hong Kong - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/hong-kong-17-contents.pdf · Survival Guide 257 Hong Kong Maps 296 4 ... Dinner Dunk and dip Hong Kong–style at Woo Cow

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Page 18: Hong Kong - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/hong-kong-17-contents.pdf · Survival Guide 257 Hong Kong Maps 296 4 ... Dinner Dunk and dip Hong Kong–style at Woo Cow

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308

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WAN

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Eæ Sights (p102) 33 Hong Kong Academy for 1 Blue House.............................B7 the Performing Arts ..........A3 2 Comix Home Base ................D5 34 Hong Kong Arts Centre .......A4 3 Golden Bauhinia Square ...... B1 35 Punchline Comedy Club ......D3 4 Hong Kong Cemetery...........E7 36 Wanch ....................................A4 5 Hung Shing Temple ..............A6

6 Khalsa Diwan Sikh Temple . D6 þ Shopping (p116) 7 Orange House ...................... C6 37 Chinese Arts & Crafts ..........C3 8 Pak Tai Temple......................B7 38 Kung Fu Supplies..................C5 9 Yellow House .........................C7 39 Tai Yuen Street Toy Shops ..................................B6 ú Eating (p108) 40 Wan Chai Computer 10 22 Ships .................................A6 Centre .................................B5 11 Bo Innovation ........................A5 41 Wan Chai Market ..................B6 12 Bowrington Road Market.....E4

13 Capital Cafe ...........................D5 Ø Sports & Activities (p119) 14 Chuen Cheong Foods...........C5 Hong Kong House 15 Grissini ...................................B3 of Stories ..................... (see 1) 16 Gun Gei Healthy

Vegetarian ..........................E4 ÿ Sleeping (p221) 17 Hong Zhou Restaurant.........C5 42 Check Inn...............................D4 18 Joy Hing Roasted Meat ........D5 43 Cosmo....................................D6 19 Kam's Roast Goose ..............C5 44 Dorsett Wanchai................... E6 20 Kin's Kitchen..........................D5 45 Hotel Indigo ...........................B6 21 Megan's Kitchen ...................D5 46 Mira Moon.............................. E4 22 Pawn .......................................A5

23 Serge et le Phoque .............. C6 ï Information 24 Seventh Son ......................... D4 47 Australian Consulate............C3 25 Wing Wah...............................A5 48 DHL International .................C3 49 Hong Kong Immigration û Drinking & Nightlife (p113) Department........................B4 26 Amici.......................................A4 50 New Zealand Consulate.......B4 Botanicals ....................(see 22) 51 Ruttonjee Hospital................C6 27 Champagne Bar ....................B3 52 Visa Office of the 28 Dusk Till Dawn.......................A4 People's Republic 29 Manson's Lot .........................A6 of China...............................C4 30 MyHouse............................... B6

Skybar ..........................(see 45) ï Transport 31 Stone Nullah Tavern.............B7 53 Avis ......................................... E4 32 Tai Lung Fung........................B7 54 Wan Chai Ferry Pier .............C2

ý Entertainment (p115)

Agnès b. Cinema.........(see 34)

309

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310

Page 21: Hong Kong - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/hong-kong-17-contents.pdf · Survival Guide 257 Hong Kong Maps 296 4 ... Dinner Dunk and dip Hong Kong–style at Woo Cow

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æ Sights (p104) þ Shopping (p117) 1 Causeway Bay 26 Basheer..................................A4 Typhoon 27 Cuffs .......................................B5 Shelter.................................B2 Eslite..............................(see 31) 2 Happy Valley 28 GOD ........................................A5 Racecourse.........................A7 29 Gum Gum Gum.....................B3 3 Lin Fa Temple........................E5 30 Hola Classic...........................C5 4 Noonday Gun.........................B3 31 Hysan Place...........................B4 5 Tin Hau Temple.....................E3 32 Island Beverley Mall .............B4 6 Victoria Park......................... C3 33 Mountain Services................ E2 34 Muji .........................................A5 ú Eating (p110) 35 Numb Workshop...................C5 7 Atum Desserant....................A4 36 Papabubble ...........................D5 8 Choi's Kitchen ...................... D2 37 Sogo .......................................B4 9 Delicious Kitchen ..................B3 38 Times Square........................A5 10 Fortune Kitchen ....................B5 39 Two Girls ................................B4 11 Forum .....................................A4 40 Yiu Fung Store ......................B5 12 Go Ya Yakitori........................E5

Ho Hung Kee................ (see 31) Ø Sports & Activities (p119) 13 Kam's Kitchen .......................E2 Happy Valley 14 Lab Made Ice Cream ............E5 Sports Ground ........... (see 2) 15 Queen of the East .................A5 41 South China Athletic Sogo..............................(see 37) Association.........................C6 16 Sushi Fuku-suke .................. B4 Victoria Park.................. (see 6) 17 West Villa ...............................B5

18 Yee Tung Heen......................B3 ÿ Sleeping (p221) 42 J Plus by YOO........................C5 û Drinking & Nightlife (p114) 43 Tuve........................................ E2 19 Buddy Bar ..............................D5 44 Twenty One Whitfield...........D2 20 Cafe Corridor.........................A5 45 YesInn ....................................A4 Dickens Bar ................. (see 18)

21 Elephant Grounds................ B4 ï Information 22 Executive Bar ........................A5 46 Central Library......................D4 23 Frites.......................................C5 47 Hong Kong Island HKTB Centre......................B4 ý Entertainment (p115)

24 Focal Fair................................D5

25 Hong Kong Stadium .............C7

311

Page 22: Hong Kong - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/hong-kong-17-contents.pdf · Survival Guide 257 Hong Kong Maps 296 4 ... Dinner Dunk and dip Hong Kong–style at Woo Cow

AbER

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Page 23: Hong Kong - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/hong-kong-17-contents.pdf · Survival Guide 257 Hong Kong Maps 296 4 ... Dinner Dunk and dip Hong Kong–style at Woo Cow

STANLEy

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313

Page 24: Hong Kong - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/hong-kong-17-contents.pdf · Survival Guide 257 Hong Kong Maps 296 4 ... Dinner Dunk and dip Hong Kong–style at Woo Cow

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314

Page 25: Hong Kong - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/hong-kong-17-contents.pdf · Survival Guide 257 Hong Kong Maps 296 4 ... Dinner Dunk and dip Hong Kong–style at Woo Cow

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Eæ Sights (p135) þ Shopping (p149) 1 Avenue of Stars.....................E6 34 Brown's Tailor .......................D3 2 Fook Tak Ancient 35 Curio Alley .............................D4 Temple ............................... C4 36 Harbour City..........................B4 3 Former KCR Clock 37 Premier Jewellery.................D5 Tower.................................. C6 38 Swindon Books .....................D4 4 Former Kowloon British

School................................. D2 Ø Sports & Activities (p152) 5 Former Marine Police 39 Big Bus Company.................C6 Headquarters .................... C6 40 Hong Kong 6 Hong Kong Cultural Dolphinwatch .....................C6 Centre................................. C6 Peninsula 7 Hong Kong Museum of Academy....................(see 13) Art ....................................... D6 41 Water Tours ..........................C6 8 Hong Kong Space 42 Wing Chun Yip Man Museum & Martial Arts Theatre............................... D6 Athletic 9 Kowloon Mosque & Association.........................D5 Islamic Centre ................... D4

10 Kowloon Park ....................... C3 ÿ Sleeping (p224) 11 Nathan Road......................... D2 Dragon Inn...................(see 44) 12 Ocean Terminal Holiday Building ...............................B5 Guesthouse ..............(see 44) 13 Peninsula Hong Kong...........D5 43 InnSight..................................D5 14 St Andrew's Anglican 44 New China Church................................ D2 Guesthouse ........................D5 Park Guesthouse ........(see 44) ú Eating (p141) Peninsula Hong 15 Al Molo....................................B5 Kong ...........................(see 13) 16 City'super.............................. C4 45 Salisbury................................D5 17 Din Tai Fung.......................... C4 46 Urban Pack............................D4 Gaddi's ......................... (see 13)

18 Gaylord.................................. C4 ï Information 19 Hing Kee Restaurant ............ D1 47 China Travel Services 20 Hungry Korean..................... D4 Office...................................D5 21 Mammy Pancake ..................E4 Hong Kong 22 Pierre Hermé ........................ B4 Antiquities & 23 Sun Tung Lok ....................... D2 Monuments 24 Sweet Dynasty ..................... D4 Office........................... (see 4) 25 Tak Fat Beef Balls ................ C4 48 Pacific Coffee 26 T'ang Court............................C5 Company ............................D3 27 Yè Shanghai...........................C5 49 Tsim Sha Tsui Post Office................................... E5 û Drinking & Nightlife (p146)

28 Aqua .......................................C5 ï Transport 29 Felix Bar ................................ D6 50 Cathay Pacific .......................B6 30 Ned Kelly's Last Stand .........C5 51 China Ferry Terminal ...........B3 31 Tapagria .................................E3 52 Eternal East Cross 32 Utopia..................................... D1 Border Coach.....................D5 33 Vibes...................................... D3 53 Kowloon HKTB Centre.........C6 54 Sincerity Travel.......................... ý Entertainment (p148) 55 Star Ferry Bus Hong Kong Terminal..............................C6 Cultural Centre...........(see 6) 56 Star Ferry Pier.......................C6

315

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8 Changwon..............................A3 ÿ Sleeping (p224) 9 Chicken HOF & Soju 27 Hyatt Regency Tsim Korean.................................B2 Sha Tsui ..............................A4 10 Dong Lai Shun ...................... C4 28 InterContinental Hong 11 Fook Lam Moon ....................A2 Kong .................................... A7 12 Kimberley Chinese 29 Knutsford Hotel ....................A2 Restaurant..........................A3 30 Mariner's Club.......................A5 13 Peking Dumpling Shop.........A2

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317

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10 BBQ Lobster.................. B3 Jyut Wan Go Zo... (see 20)

11 Good Hope Noodle ........D1

318

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319

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Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415317th edition – May 2017ISBN 978 1 78657 442 8© Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 201710 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Our WritersEmily MatcharCentral, The Peak & the Northwest, Kowloon, Outlying Islands, Macau A native of Chapel Hill, North Carolina, Emily first caught Relapsing Travel Fever during a high-school semester abroad in Argentina. To date, Emily has contrib-uted to some two dozen Lonely Planet guides. She also writes about culture, travel, politics and food for the New York Times, The Washington Post, The New Republic, The Atlantic, Men’s Journal, Outside, Gourmet and many more.

When she’s not busy rating Memphis barbecue joints, wandering around night markets in Laos, or tramping in New Zealand, she can be found chowing down on dumplings in her adopted city of Hong Kong.

Piera ChenPlan Your Trip, Wan Chai & the Northeast, Aberdeen & the South, New Territories, Understand Hong Kong, Survival Guide When not on the road, Piera divides her time between hometown Hong Kong, Taiwan and Vancouver. She has authored more than a dozen travel guides and contributed to as many travel-related titles. Piera has a BA in Literature from Pomona College. Her early life was peppered with trips to Taiwan, China and Southeast Asia , but it was

during her first trip to Europe that dawn broke. She remembers being fresh off a flight, looking around her in Rome, thinking, ‘I want to be doing this everyday.’ And she has.

Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

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