hong kong | expat relocation guide

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HONG KONGrelocation preparations guide

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HONG KONG

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HONG KONGrelocation preparations guide

7ABOUT THIS BOOK

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What you are about to read is not your average travel guide. In fact, it is the world’s

first guide dedicated exclusively to the relocation process undertaken by people traversing the globe to live and work in foreign lands. We have created this guide with a special understanding of the relocation experience. We know that with the right preparations, from learning about Hong Kong's history and distinct culture to choosing the right school – and everything in between – your relocation experience will be one that you remember for all the right reasons.

We also know what it takes to get set up and have a soft landing in Hong Kong. From finding housing and domestic help, to orienting yourself among the tangle of neighborhoods that make up one of the most vibrant cities in the world, we have it. And we put it together with images that are meant to inspire positivity and excitement. We believe that with the right information and advice, the acclimation period can be limited and the chances of experiencing culture shock reduced.

Our guide will also provide you with invaluable information on settling into your new home, from connecting with expat groups to finding a weekend outing for the family. We will help you navigate the seemingly boundless options for shopping in Hong Kong. Our maps and listings will show you where to go out for a drink and how to get there. Need to find a health club or a day spa that would make angels weep with joy? We can help.

We sincerely hope you love our guide and find it more than useful. We hope you can tell that creating it was far more than an endeavor, it was a passion. We have set out to try to help people through an experience that for many is full of challenges. While we understand that there will always be these challenges, we also know that overcoming them brings a sense of achievement and satisfaction that uplifts the spirit. If we have contributed to that in some way, then we will have made a difference – and that’s as much as anyone can ask for.

Enjoy!

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98 ABOUT US CONTRIBUTORS

This first edition of expat essentials Hong Kong came into this world as a result of the efforts of a number of

talented individuals working tirelessly with the aim of making a difference in the lives of our readership. Stephen Reels, long-time Hong Kong expat, writer and editor, contributed a keen attention to detail combined with subtle wit to deliver work that is both enjoyable and invaluable. To say that Stephen knows Hong Kong like the back of his hand is the equivalent of saying pandas know all about bamboo.

Mark Angus is a former principal at The British International School Shanghai, and as such is an expert in all things educational. His insight into the process by which parents choose the best school for their children, as well as his understanding of international schools as a whole, helped make our education section the most comprehensive and reliable guide to international education in Hong Kong ever compiled (if you find a better one, let us know). As a man with many strings to his bow, he knows this is a city that rewards students and parents looking to be challenged.

Aelred Doyle is our tireless editor and coauthor of this edition of expat essentials Hong Kong. As a ten-year veteran of the mean streets of Asia with a keen interest in where greater China has come from and where it is heading, he has watched the region transform into what it is today and brings that expertise to this book and others in our series.

Tibor (Nicky) Almasy captains the photographic journey through Hong Kong on which you are about to embark. We guarantee his keen eye and deft touch will inspire and excite. From his native Budapest through London, Hong Kong, Singapore and Shanghai, he has documented in pictures this incredibly vibrant region of the world.

Travis Murray is the Founder and CEO of Eclipse Publishing and the man behind the plan to produce a guidebook unlike any other. He is also the primary graphic designer and coauthor of the expat essentials series of guides. A serial expat over the past 15 years, it is his belief that the single greatest joy in life is helping others thrive. He considers himself a very lucky man to have the opportunity to bring expat essentials to the larger community and he truly believes it will make a difference in your life.

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LEFT: Family on the beach in Repulse Bay

pat essentials xe

Founder and CEOTravis Murray

Chief EditorAelred Doyle

General ManagerGareth Goodin

Lead DesignerTravis Murray

PhotographerNicky Almasy

PublisherEclipse Advertising Limited©2015 All rights reserved

PrinterC and C Joint Printing

All reasonable efforts have been made to ensure that the information contained in this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of printing. However, details pertaining to opening hours, contact details, addresses, prices and travel and visa information are subject to change. The publishers of this book cannot be held liable or responsible for any consequences arising from the use of this book.

No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form without the prior permission of an authorized representative of Eclipse Advertising limited.

HONG KONGrelocation guide

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x WHEN YOU ARRIVE 130

HEALTH CARE 132

MONEY AND BANKING 146

FINDING HOUSING 168

SERVICED APARTMENTS 164

HOTELS 158

GETTING CONNECTED 150

CULTURE SHOCK 154

DEEP WATER BAY 201

KOWLOON 212

MID-LEVELS 172

HAPPY VALLEY 188

REPLULSE BAY 194

THE PEAK 179

DISCOVERY BAY 204

KOWLOON TONG AND

STANLEY 208

SHA TIN 216GETTING AROUND 140

POK FU LAM 182

TAI TAM AND SHEK O 230

QUARRY BAY 224

SAI KUNG 220CLEAR WATER BAY AND

SUBWAY 232

AP LEI CHAU AND ABERDEEN 226

NORTH POINT AND

SOFT LANDING 128

HISTORY 26

PEOPLE AND CULTURE 28

POLICE AND CRIME 46

CLIMATE 44

REGIONAL MAP 42

LANGUAGE 38

GEOGRAPHY AND CITYSCAPE 40

LOOK-SEE TRIP 72

SHIPPING AND PACKING 75

EDUCATION 76

VISAS 58

BOOKS AND FILMS 48

INSURANCE 54

FINANCIAL PREPARATIONS 56

PRE-MOVE SURVEY 74

CONSULATES 60

RELOCATION CHECKLIST 64PET RELOCATION 68

HEALTH PREPARATIONS 52

PREPARATIONS 22CONTENTS

1312

There's nowhere quite like Hong Kong. The financial center of Asia, and one of the world's great cities. Incredibly urban and

neck-craningly high-rise, yet with wilderness hikes a ferry ride away. From The Peak you'll see a skyline like no other in the world; you'll also see eagles soaring above green valleys.

And now Hong Kong is going to be your home.

If you're here for work, you'll hit the ground running. The throb of commerce runs through Hong Kong, from the giants of banking and finance, to the wondrous shopping malls threaded through the city, to the tangle of Chinese characters on billboards and signs, to the endless small restaurants and streetside eats. The world's most advanced system of online banking and electronic payment makes it easy to spend, spend, spend. But there's fascinating culture here too. The particular history of Hong Kong – a port city, a prosperous British enclave in China's darkest decades, now reunited with China once again – has created a culturally vibrant melting pot blending the best of East and West.

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The people of Hong Kong are proud of the sophistication and wealth of their city, and that the rest of Asia looks to them. They

have a clamorous free press and a pugnacious political class, and are confident in the future while paying close attention to the changes taking place since the handover in 1997. Hong Kong intends to remain both prosperous and free, and its people know the two go together.

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You don't have to live a hard-charging life here if you don't want to. It's a great city for families, with museums, superb international

schools, fine sporting facilities and affordable childcare. Hong Kong for you could be beaches, windsurfing and weekend hikes with the kids; it could be golf, tennis and cocktails at the country club. Or you could get involved in one of the thriving groups and societies that are so much a part of expat life here, including many fine charities.

1918

Hong Kong willed itself into prosperity, becoming a spectacular and uniquely fascinating city in the process. You're going to be

impressed, and you're going to find living here is something special.

Welcome to Hong Kong.

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PREPARATIONS

As you progress through this section, your understanding of the city you will soon call home will flourish; and while you may have

visited Hong Kong in the past or possess previous knowledge to some degree, you can trust that you will be seeing things in a new light from now on.

Successful relocations begin with knowledge and are fueled by plan-ning and preparation. Start your preparations early and be meticulous in your planning. This will develop your confidence, which is a key element in reducing the stress that is often associated with a major life transition.

expat essentials is designed to make a difference – take advantage of it, and we know it will.

INTRODUCTION

HISTORY 26

PEOPLE AND CULTURE 28

POLICE AND CRIME 46

CLIMATE 44

REGIONAL MAP 42

LANGUAGE 38

CITYSCAPE 40

LOOK-SEE TRIP 72

SHIPPING AND PACKING 75

EDUCATION 76

VISAS 58

BOOKS AND FILMS 48

INSURANCE 54

FINANCIAL PREPARATIONS 56

PRE-MOVE SURVEY 74

CONSULATES 60

RELOCATION CHECKLIST 64

PET RELOCATION 68

HEALTH PREPARATIONS 52

26 PREPARATIONS 27PREPARATIONSHistoryHistory

Hong Kong (literally ‘fragrant harbor’) has a rich history of

human activity dating back more than 10,000 years according to some archaeological estimates. Following its incorporation into the Chinese Empire during the Qin Dynasty (221 BC - 206 BC), Hong Kong’s population began to grow more rapidly and some evidence suggests that the region was a hub for salt production during the period. The first population boom in Hong Kong resulted from the Mongol invasion of China and the associated wars and famines which saw a flood of refugees enter the territories.

During the Han and Ming Dynasties (1368 - 1644) Hong Kong became a center for pearl hunting, salt trading and fishing. The development of these industries helped develop the region into a trading center and set the stage for the development of the Hong Kong economy in the centuries that followed.

The Colonial eraDuring the 19th century a significant amount of trade developed between the British Empire and China, which created a British dependence on

Chinese tea and a large trade imbalance. The British began importing large amounts of opium into Hong Kong (and the mainland), prompting a series of events that led to the Opium Wars and ultimately resulted in the Treaty of Nanjing (among others) and the ceding of Hong Kong to the United Kingdom.

Following the conclusion of the territorial settlements, Hong Kong began to develop on a divergent path from mainland China. Commerce and industry flourished under British rule with the large scale development of infrastructure and banking. Fundamental to the evolution of Hong Kong was the introduction of Western-style education, which cemented English as one of the main languages of the region. The population continued rising steadily to an estimated 725,000 in 1925.

Japanese oCCupaTionDespite valiant efforts by local defense forces, Canadian, British and Indian troops, Hong Kong was occupied by invading Japanese forces in late 1941. British governor Mark Aitchison Young surrendered to the Japanese in person on what became known as Black Christmas. The days that followed saw the execution of dissidents and the rape of an estimated 10,000 women by the Japanese army. The subsequent three years and eight months saw the economy come to a halt and much of the population reduced to starvation rations. The Second Battle of Hong Kong liberated the city but the population had been reduced to

an estimated 600,000 people from a pre-war total of 1.6 million.

Modern hong KongFollowing the end of World War Two, civil war erupted in China, sweeping the Communist Party to power. Many thought that Hong Kong would be overrun as a result; however, Hong Kong’s economic importance was recognized by Beijing and it remained under British rule. The war on the mainland brought a flood of refugees to Hong Kong, bringing with them the cheap labor and capital necessary to fuel further rapid economic development. Local and foreign businesses developed large textile and financial industries, and though there was unrest and rioting during the 1950s and 60s, Hong Kong survived.

Starting in the late 1960s, Hong Kong’s government began enacting a series of social and labor reforms

aimed at addressing the discontent expressed by the population. Public housing, education, health care and recreation all saw improvements and the city continued to develop. By 1990 Hong Kong was the second richest region in Asia, rivaled only by Japan in terms of GDP.

In 1997, Hong Kong was formally returned to the Chinese government with the expiration of the Treaty of Nanking. Though Britain was only legally required to return the New Territories and not Hong Kong or Kowloon, more than half of the city’s population lived in the New Territories, making division of the city all but impossible. The return to Chinese rule saw the creation of a Special Administrative Region (SAR) for Hong Kong and the retention of a great deal of autonomy for the city outside of foreign affairs and defense. And while the lead-up to the handover saw the emigration of tens of thousands of concerned Hong Kong residents to other British Commonwealth countries such as Canada and Australia, as well as the US, the actual transition was relatively smooth and one would be hard pressed to see the difference between Hong Kong today and the city of 1996.

hisTorY

•Elizabeth II’s portrait was removed from bank notes, stamps and public offices.

•Legal references to the ‘Crown’ were replaced by the ‘State’.

•Public holidays were changed to PRC holidays.

•British-style postboxes were removed.

•Public offices began flying the flag of the PRC.

•The Chief Executive of Hong Kong is now elected from a selection committee of 800 pro-Chinese Hong Kong businessmen.

In a 2007 interview marking the 10th

anniversary of the handover of Hong

Kong to China, former UK Prime

Minister Margaret Thatcher desribed

China’s governance of the city up to

that point as (much to her surprise)

"successful".

TOP: Quarry Bay refinery in 1903BELOW: The 1997 handover

BELOW: Evacuating Hong Kong during

WWII

Junk boats have been around since ancient times and their name comes from the Chinese word for 'ship', which has mutated through other tongues into the modern English word.

afTer The handover:

28 2929PREPARATIONS28 PREPARATIONS People and culturePeople and culture

Foreigners are often referred to as gweilo, which

literally means ‘ghost person’

or ‘foreign devil’ though it is

generally not used in a derogatory

manner.

LEFT: Hong Kong woman on the go

BELOW: Young Hong Kong man

RighT: A local resident takes a

break.

Foreigners who have resided legally in Hong Kong uninterrupted for seven years are granted the right to vote and permanent residency.

people and CulTureeasT MeeTs wesT

In modern Hong Kong, time is money and wealth is king. The city

is brimming with malls full of all the world’s top brands. Shoppers with money to burn consume anything new and stylish. Asia accounts for 40% of the world’s luxury brand sales and Hong Kong ranks second on the Asian scale, second only to Japan - and it’s a city, not a country.

The nightlife is geared towards the rich and drinking expensive champaign or whiskey, while smoking a hundred-dollar cigar is certainly the norm. With the high lifestyle comes an underbelly supported by the Triads, the Hong Kong equivalent of the Mafia. For the most part, however, Westerners will never see this side of the city. Hong Kong is all about business. Though some say it is not as welcoming and warm as other Asian cities, it is organized, clean (aside from the air at times) and to the point. Smoking bans are in place and people respect lines (as opposed to much of the mainland).

More than a century of British rule encouraged a unique path

of development in Hong Kong compared to other Asian cities. Some say that it is a prime example of how the East and West can be merged into something unique and better. Some disagree. Relocating to Hong Kong will provide you with the opportunity to judge for yourself. One way or the other, your journey will be nothing if not interesting.

Most expatriates who have lived and worked in Hong Kong describe the lifestyle as addictive in addition to frenetic. Expatriate denizens instilled with the city’s unique energy and character tend to be drawn back long after they depart. The frustrations that accompany living in a city of such density and purpose seem to be overshadowed by the feeling of being at the center of it all.

populaTion

Hong Kong has a population of approximately seven million

people situated within a land mass of 1,104 square kilometers (426 square miles), placing it among the most densely populated areas of the world. 95% of the city’s population are Chinese with the majority of Han descent, originating mainly from nearby Guangdong Province.

Despite more than a century and a half of British rule, local Hong Kongers have never truly identified with the British Crown. While some residents may identify with their mainland province of origin, most see themselves distinctly as citizens of Hong Kong. If anything, this sense of uniqueness has increased in the post handover period, in part due to

greater political and environmental awareness.

Since the handover to Chinese authorities, the Western expatriate population has been gradually declining while the population of non-Western expats, in some cases, has been increasing. Estimates from 2008 put the number of expatriates in Hong Kong at about 70,000. Reasons for the decline relate, in most cases, to an evolution of the requirements of businesses operating in Hong Kong. Businesses have been localizing many positions and the size of packages offered to expats has been reduced in many cases.

In recent years there has been an increase in foreign-born Chinese relocating to Hong Kong. Early immigrant traders from the Indian subcontinent continue to maintain a strong presence on the island. More than 20,000 Japanese expatriates also call Hong Kong home.

By the numbers:• Growth rate: 0.8%• Literacy: 97.1% (overall); 98.7%

males, 95.4% females• Life expectancy: 82.5 years

(overall); 79.4 years males, 85.5% years females

•Before coming to Hong Kong many Westerners have an overly simplified understanding of what to expect when they arrive. Overall, there are 56 distinct ethnic groups recognized in China, with the Han Chinese comprising the majority.

•In Hong Kong, the Cantonese, Taishanese, Hakka and Chiu Chow ethnic groups are the most prevalent. Taishanese have contributed significantly to the success of the city, dominating the entertainment and business sectors of the economy, while the Hakka were the original inhabitants of what started out as a sleepy fishing villiage to which Chinese emperors sent officials for punishment.

eThniC groups

3130 PREPARATIONS PREPARATIONS


spiriTualiTYThe underlying principles of most social values in Chinese culture come from Confucianism and Taoism; which is the most influential of the two is a long debated topic. Confucianism is influential in Korea, Vietnam, Taiwan and – in different ways – Japan. It is based on the precept that humanity can be taught, improved and perfected by means of personal and communal self-cultivation/creation. Virtue and moral perfection figure prominently in Confucian thought.

Taoism has had a regional influence in Asia for more than 2000 years and notable influence in Western cultures since the 19th century. The ‘Tao’ – literally path or way – emphasizes humility, moderation and compassion. There is a strong focus on nature and the relationship between man and the cosmos, as well as health and longevity. Taoist spiritual thought is intertwined with many notable aspects of Chinese culture, including martial arts and traditional medicine.

The relationship between Confucian and Taoist thought is so deeply rooted that it is difficult, if not impossible, to understand clearly where one begins and the other ends. The effect of modernity and Western thought on Chinese culture – felt acutely in Hong Kong – has not

made understanding by Western minds any easier to come by. It is, however, a fascinating endeavor to undertake and will most likely lead those who attempt the journey to a much deeper understanding of the vast differences between Eastern and Western thought. In our Books and Films section we have recommended a number of books that will help you gain a better understanding of the culture you are about to enter.

logiCLogic is one of the most frustrating and difficult aspects of Chinese culture for Westerners to understand. Gaining a basic understanding of Chinese perceptions of logic will go a long way to alleviating potential culture shock upon arrival in Hong Kong.

To start with, one must begin by assimilating the notion that while Western logic (Greek or classical logic) has influence in China, it is not the conventional wisdom (so to speak). In fact, the word 'logic' in Chinese is a transliteration from the English word and pronounced 'luo ji'. Historically logic was studied in China under a contemporary of Confucius named Mozi (Master Mo); however, it was thoroughly repressed during the Qin Dynasty due to the harsh tenets of legalism.

It is a reasonably safe statement to say that many Chinese are superstitious to one extent or another, though the younger generation is certainly less so. That being said, it may be worthwhile as you read this section to ask yourself about common Western superstitions such as lucky number seven, horoscopes, etc.

Some ‘classic’ Chinese superstitions:

• The number four is considered unlucky as it sounds similar to the Chinese word '(to) die'. White is considered unlucky as it is associated with funerals.

• A baby with wide and thick ears will live a prosperous life.

• Lucky wedding colors: red, yellow and white

• Unlucky wedding colors: black, blue and gray

• Never marry a person who is three or six years younger or older.

While some of these beliefs may sound strange, one only need reminisce about parents or grandparents and the beliefs they held (or hold) to see that the East and West are not that far apart.

Buddhist or Indian logic is perhaps the best way to understand Chinese logic, however Buddhist logic cannot be understood in terms of classical Western logic. It is, rather, a system in its own right influenced by the study of grammar and not mathematics as in the Greek system.

In simple, and hopefully understandable terms, Buddhist logic was not only logic for the sake of logic, it was also the philosophical basis for Buddhism itself. This is perhaps the most important distinction to make for the purposes of this section. The underlying principles of Chinese logic are rooted in Buddhist philosophy and thus quite different from Western logic. Add to this the influence of Confucian thought on Chinese logic and the rationale behind the actions of Chinese people cannot be explained as simply as a+b=c. It is better understood (or not) as a culmination of an intricate set of influences emanating from Buddhist and Confucian thought.

It’s quite possible that you are more confused after reading this section than you were before you started. Just remember that when you start asking yourself “Why in the world?” you probably won’t get a satisfactory answer. The confusion will eventually turn to fascination and reveal a world of thought that will never cease to amaze with its intricacies and eccentricities.

gaining a basiC unDerstanDing oF

Chinese perCeptions oF LogiC WiLL go a Long Way to

aLLeViating potentiaL CuLture shoCK upon

arriVaL in hong Kong

”

LEFT: Offering of the Six DevasRighT: Buddhist monks at Tian Tan Monastery

supersTiTion (or beliefs)

People and culturePeople and culture



guanxiGuanxi (pronounced 'gwanshee') does not have a sufficient literal translation in English. Many have attempted to quantify and describe what the term means in a way that is easily under-stood by Western standards of observation, yet there remains much confusion. One helpful explanation is that guanxi is a “friendship with implications of a continuing exchange of fa-vors”. In other words, person A has something that person B needs or values. A is prepared to give this commodity to B and while A does not necessarily expect an immediate return on this investment, A does expect that in the future B will return the favor in some way.

This oversimplified explanation of the con-cept does not do justice to the pervasiveness, complexity or importance of guanxi in Chinese culture, however. The concept is taken very seri-ously by Chinese people and thus you should be aware that in cases where you would not nec-essarily expect it, obligation may in fact be in-curred. In smaller cases where you ask a favor of a Chinese co-worker or acquaintance, the result of not understanding or returning the guanxi will result in little more than annoyance on the part of the person slighted. However, in busi-ness dealings, guanxi and your understanding of it – or lack thereof – can have a significant effect on the outcome of your efforts and your business's success.

In Western business practice, networking is commonly understood to be a valuable method of marketing oneself and business interests. Similarly, in Hong Kong developing guanxi with a well connected business person can open up wide networks of contacts that would never have previously been available. The process, however, is informal, non-transparent and complicated, and thus not easily navigated by a Westerner new to the concept or even someone who has lived in Hong Kong for years.

In business in Hong Kong and mainland China, it's extremely important to remember that while developing guanxi amongst suppliers, retailers, banks and government officials can be highly time and money consuming, it is es-sential, especially when your organization is in need. In many cases small gifts such as wine and cigarettes are a good way to open the door to a

broader relationship. The Chinese prefer to do business with those they know and trust, and for the most part that means a personal rather than a business relationship. A small gift is a show of respect and a sign that you are inter-ested in developing this personal connection on which later dealings will be based.

A good rule of thumb when asking a favor of a local who is in a position to help you is to imply that you are in a position to help them as well at some point in the future. At this point, the person you have asked will consider both the cost to them in terms of their ability to help, as well as the value of what you could potentially offer in the future. It starts to get much more complicated when you realize that an agree-ment to help you may require that, for exam-ple, in the future, in order to return the favor, you may need to help this person’s brother help one of his friends so that some previous guanxi between the person you asked for the favor and their brother is resolved or created for future considerations.

If this sounds confusing, it’s because it is. Understanding that guanxi exists, that it’s im-portant, complex and pervasive, will go a long way to helping you recognize the situations where guanxi applies when they arise. If you are involved in important business dealings with Chinese people from Hong Kong or main-land China it's certainly recommended that you enlist the help of an intelligent and trusted Chinese advisor to help you navigate the waters successfully. Be prepared to repay the favor in the future, however.

faCeUnderstanding the Chinese concept of 'face' will make your transition to Hong Kong much smoother; however, it is not easily understood. Though over simplified, face can be described as respect, honor, prestige, status and/or dig-nity. One can gain face by doing something respectable or honorable, lose face by doing something undignified or disrespectful, and give or take face from another by highlighting something good or bad that they have done. One can also save face by recovering from a potentially face-losing situation.

While this may sound confusing, similar con-cepts exist in many cultures around the world. The trickiest part is understanding what is or isn’t honorable, respectful, dignified or prestigious in Chinese society. In a stratified hierarchical society like Hong Kong, what may be acceptable for one social class is certainly not for another. Foreigners themselves exist as a class apart and in many ways are exempt from the concept of face (though not always). What would be considered a completely un-dignified face-losing act by a Chinese person is often overlooked by locals when a foreigner is responsible.

This is certainly less true when a foreigner causes a local to lose face, and it is these types of situations that you should be most aware of, as they often result in what seems like (to a foreigner), intense outbursts of anger from the person who has just lost face, even if it was they who were engaged in a morally dubious act, such as trying to cheat you. Your public dis-play of outrage at being cheated may cause the offender to perceive that they have lost face, causing them to go on the offensive, which usu-ally isn't pretty.

If you suspect that you have become involved in a situation like this, it's best to act deferential if you want to defuse the situation. This will al-low the offended party to save face and they will often act indignant toward you rather than admit any part in the problem. This is perhaps the most curious of all aspects of the concept of face. The display or indeed the whole event is played out in a manner in which everyone clearly knows what is going on and who was right or wrong. Right and wrong mean little

in cases of losing face. In fact, it's considered a faux pas to cause another to lose face and can itself be considered a face losing act.

In business, understanding face can be crucial to the success or failure of business dealings. During the often alcohol and tobacco soaked dinner parties that form the prelude to the signing of business deals, it is crucial that you provide your potential client or partner with a good dose of face in front of their colleagues or friends. Often this involves accepting their continuous offers of more drinks and ciga-rettes, praising them and certainly laughing at jokes whether they're funny or not. In doing so, you will most likely be building up some guanxi with them, which will be repaid in the form of favorable treatment in business deal-ings. Continuation of this favorable treatment may involve further face-giving dinner parties or other activities. These events also serve to solidify the personal relationships on which many business deals are based. The trust that comes from socializing with people and break-ing bread together is certainly not uncommon in Western business practice.

Don’t expect to get the hang of face and guanxi immediately, as they are intricate and complicated concepts that are intertwined with each other as well as various aspects of social tradition, which are then applied differently by different people. Being aware that much more than meets the eye is actually taking place in social and business situations is an important step toward ensuring your time in Hong Kong is positive and fulfilling.


the triCKiest part oF unDerstanDing the ConCept oF FaCe is

unDerstanDing What is or isn’t honorabLe,

respeCtFuL, DigniFieD or prestigious in Chinese

soCiety

”

aCquiring a strong unDerstanDing oF the

ConCept oF guanxi WiLL heLp ensure suCCessFuL business reLationships

in hong Kong

”



eTiqueTTe and CusToMsEtiquette and manners in Hong Kong are based on traditional values that have strong roots in Confucianism. Confucian philosophy stresses the importance of obligation, based on relationships which are hierarchical in na-ture. Duty, loyalty, respect for seniority, sincer-ity and honor are fundamentally important in Confucian thought and are thus at the base of what is considered to be proper etiquette. This aspect of Chinese society is difficult for many Westerners to understand, as the practice of proper etiquette is often very subtle but very important as well. In general, it is important to attempt to understand the existing hierarchy amongst groups of Chinese people, particularly in the workplace. Disrespecting the hierarchy is generally taboo, as it will cause a loss of face for those higher on the chain that are disrespected by those lower on the ladder. Careful observa-tion of coworkers will provide valuable insight as to the nature of the hierarchy.

Here are some general guidelines for etiquette in Hong Kong:

greetings• Chinese handshakes tend to be light so

don’t go in too hard

• As a show of respect, Chinese may lower their eyes slightly – there is no need to return the favor, though prolonged eye contact should be avoided

• Wait for your host to introduce you at small functions

• In China, the family surname comes first and you should use it with a title until advised to move to a first-name basis

Table manners• Your host will seat you as there is often a

seating plan based on hierarchy

• Refrain from eating until your host begins or tells you to start

• Even though you may not like the food, it is important to try everything

• Never eat the last piece of a dish

• Rather than being seen as rude, burping at the table is a sign of satisfaction and considered a compliment

• Leave a small amount of food in your bowl when you are finished, as this is a sign that your host has filled your belly

• Always refuse a second serving at least once

Business etiquette• Relationships are the basis of business in

Hong Kong – once you have formed one, nurture it and don’t neglect it, as this is considered rude

• Hong Kong people view business relationships as long-term

• Asking extremely personal questions is commonplace – don’t be offended

• Punctuality is important – call if you are going to be late

• Negotiations move at a snail's pace – don’t get impatient

• Respect the hierarchy and allow the most senior person in your delegation to lead

• If you hear someone sucking air through their teeth, restate or modify your position as it is a sign of significant dissatisfaction

• Never lose your temper, as it won’t help

• Allow silences to occur and don’t feel the need to jump in right away

• Price rather than quality is usually the most important factor

• Don’t be surprised if the signing date of your contract is determined by an astrologer or feng shui master

• Expect and engage in a lot of small talk with potential business associates. They will want to get to know you better so that they are comfortable doing business with you

• Always use two hands to offer and receive business cards

• Closely examining the business cards you receive is a sign of respect

• Never write on someone’s business card unless directed to do so

• Your business cards should be in perfect condition

• Never open with your best price

gift giving etiquette• Always bring gifts of good quality sweets,

imported spirits, flowers or fruit for the hostess

• Never wrap with white, blue or black paper – use red and gold

• You can refuse a gift once or twice before accepting

• Always give gifts with two hands

• Never open a gift when you receive it

• Fancy gift wrapping is important

• Flowers should not be red or white

• Bringing small gifts for the children is considered polite

• Giving cash is acceptable, appreciated and given in red envelopes

”ABOVE LEFT: Present business cards with two handsABOVE RighT: Give gifts with two hands and make sure they are wrapped decoratively

ABOVE: Chinese handshakes tend to be lightABOVE RighT: Wedding gift envelope


unDerstanDing Chinese etiquette is a VaLuabLe

Way to inCrease the ChanCes oF suCCess in business in hong Kong



feng shuiTo Westerners, feng shui is not an easily under-stood concept. The term literally means 'wind-water' and refers to the qualities of what is known in Chinese culture as 'qi' as it interacts with these two elements. Qi can be understood to generally mean life force or energy flow, and is a concept common across both Western and Eastern belief systems. Within the tenets of feng shui, it is said that “Qi rides the wind and scatters, but it is retained when it encounters water.” Feng shui’s general aim is to improve life by adopting aesthetic practices that receive and retain positive qi, which provides good fortune.

Many different styles of feng shui are prac-ticed but all have the general aim of orienting buildings, both inside and out, in an auspicious manner so as to retain positive qi and thereby improve the life and luck of those who dwell in, or are involved with the building. Orientation relative to bodies of water, the stars or direc-tion are common considerations when a feng shui master advises on the construction of a building. Big development companies and cor-porations often spend large amounts of money on feng shui advisors in the hope that it will provide them with good fortune in their busi-nesses. In recent years the practice has become more popular in the West, including in the United States.

In mainland China, feng shui as a practice was designated a superstitious social evil after 1949 but has since returned to favor in many ways, though less than a third of the country’s population is said to believe in its merit. It has remained popular in Hong Kong throughout. Some common feng shui beliefs are:

• Mirrors placed in the path of bad feng shui will deflect the bad luck, as the demons flee when they see their hideous reflections

• Adding water in the right way to the design of a building will attract positive qi and good fortune

• The numbers 4 and 13 are considered very unlucky. Drawing a circle around them will contain the negative effects

• Placing guardian lion statues at the entrance to your house will protect it against bad qi TOP: Chinese Guardian Lion statue

BOTTOM: Feng shui compass


Upon arrival in Asia, the first job I took was as Business Director of the company that runs Shanghai's popular English-language magazine That’s Shanghai. It was a great experience in many ways, in particular with regard to working for a local General Manager. That’s not to say it was good per se, but it was an education.

Shortly after I took up my role, sales began to decline. Thankfully, as I had only just started, I could not be blamed for the downward trend that was beginning to emerge. Many meetings were had on the issue, replete with motivational speeches and threats of termination if something wasn’t done to rectify the situation.

I found it curious that our fearless leader, while decrying the situation, offered absolutely no advice to any sales staff as to what they might do in order to improve preformance. I found out later that this is often a common practice among Chinese managers. If they do not suggest an approach aimed at solving a problem, but rather simply order others to fix it, then they avoid losing face in the event their solution does not solve the problem.

Though not offering any direction to the troops beset with a seemingly intractable problem, he did bring in a feng shui master to our office to consult about possible problems with the office space that might be affecting sales. While I was not personally there on the weekend this consultation occurred, I was there when furniture was being moved and employees relocated to different areas in order to improve the feng shui of the building and thus our sales.

In retrospect, while I can’t say for certain whether his efforts were effective or not, I can say that sales continued to decline. It was 2007 and the global financial crisis had begun.

ediTor’s experienCe

When relocating to a foreign culture it is important to

understand as much as possible about the local inhabitants if you want to get the most of your time spent abroad. Learning some of the local language will contribute to a sense of inclusion and alleviate feelings of isolation. Cantonese (or Mandarin), though seemingly daunting at first due to its visual complexity, is actually not that difficult to learn. It is grammatically straightforward, and while very different to Latin or Germanic languages such as French and English, it has the same base structure as any other language.

hisTorY and diversiTYFrom 1883 to 1974 the sole official language of Hong Kong was English. The adoption of Hong Kong Basic Law after 1974 added Chinese, and in 1987 an amendment to the Official Languages Ordinance required that new legislation be bilingual. Following the handover to Chinese rule in 1997, Chinese was made a co-official language.

The Cantonese dialect of Chinese is the most common spoken form of Chinese in Hong Kong. Originating in nearby Guangdong and Guangxi provinces, Cantonese is the main language used in schools, media, government and daily communication. Since the handover to Chinese rule the use of English in schools has seen a noticeable decline, though it remains by far the most common form of communication in business in Hong Kong.

Use of Mandarin Chinese (the official language of mainland China) has increased since 1997 for obvious practical reasons, including closer economic ties with the mainland. Though easier to learn as a second language for Cantonese-speakers,

language

39PREPARATIONS38 PREPARATIONS LanguageLanguage

Mandarin has not eclipsed English in value in the minds of parents educating their children. English remains the language of choice due to its value in business.

Japanese is a popular language in Hong Kong and it is not uncommon to hear it being spoken in conversations on the street. There are more than 25,000 Japanese residents of Hong Kong, and some say that if it were not for English’s official status, Japanese would be the most popular language after Cantonese. The popularity and influence of Japanese pop culture and cuisine are no doubt a main factor in the popularity of the Japanese language.

French is also popular in Hong Kong and can be seen in the names of residences and developments. It is also often mixed with English in the names of restaurants and shops, and French programs are offered at universities and other educational institutions. Though not as popular as French, German courses are also common at universities.

Provided you have command of basic English, it is unlikely you will experience any significant difficulties navigating through the common expatriate areas of Hong Kong. It is, however, useful to learn some of the local Cantonese dialect as it will provide access to more atypical areas of Hong Kong that lie off the beaten track. Though relatively small in geographic area, Hong Kong has a wide array of hidden treasures waiting to be found.

Before you go, try to commit to memory a few simple words and phrases. It’s useful to write each one on a Post-it note with a thick marker so that you can see it from a distance. Stick them in places where you often look, and you will be sure to pick up some Cantonese skills before your journey begins.

Though Chinese is a character-based

language, it is usually taught using

a phonetic system that makes learning

it much easier for foreigners.

Taking a language class is a great way

to start your time in Hong Kong. You’ll meet other expats

who will often form a crucial support

network and make your period of

adjustment much less stressful.

CENTER: Traditional Chinese calligraphy has many styles, influenced by region and period.

East Asian calligraphy originated in China and is practiced in Japan, Korea and Vietnam. It has influenced many other art forms.

It’s a myth that by getting the tones wrong in Chinese you’ll accidentally insult somebody – in reality, they simply won’t understand what you’re saying. Be proud when your skills reach the stage where you can inadvertently offend your neighbors.


41PREPARATIONS40 PREPARATIONS CityscapeGeography

Hong Kong is a beautiful city by most accounts, surrounded by

mountains and water. Lying just south of the Tropic of Cancer, it shares similar latitudes to Hawaii, Havana, and Calcutta, and longitudes to Perth, Bali and Wuhan. It is situated 60 km (37 miles) east of Macau on China’s south coast, surrounded by the South China Sea on the west, south and east sides. The mainland city of Shenzhen lies to the north across the Shenzhen River. Hong Kong is surrounded by deep waters and has a sheltered port which has made it a favorite passing point for ships for centuries.

Hong Kong’s total area is 1,104 sqm (426 miles), spread across Hong Kong Island, the Kowloon Peninsula and the New Territories,

geographY CiTYsCapeMany are surprised

to find that Hong Kong has an

abundance of beautiful beaches.

Hong Kong is one of the slickest commercial capitals is the world – but it is also home to sleepy traditional villages and abundant natural beauty.

What most people think of when asked to imagine Hong

Kong is the north edge of the island, which is home to the famous Hong Kong skyline set against the forested mountains and Victoria Harbour. Though dazzling, this image does nothing to replicate the feeling of standing among the buildings that make up Central, Hong Kong’s most important district, which is replete with five-star hotels and corporate headquarters. The southern coast of Hong Kong Island, by contrast, is sprinkled with excellent beaches such as Big Wave Bay, Stanley and Repulse Bay.

Across the harbor from Central is Kowloon which, though often scoffed at by residents of the main island, is where the thriving heart

of Hong Kong’s middle class does its business. In Kowloon you get a sense of what the real Hong Kong is like. The bustling markets, temples and crumbling tenements are mixed in among some of Hong Kong’s best shopping and a few five-star hotels.

North of Kowloon is Hong Kong’s largest area – the New Territories. Home to more than half of Hong Kong’s population, the New Territories are where you'll find some of Hong Kong’s best natural attractions, including hiking trails and unspoiled scenery.

Surrounding Hong Kong Island are hundreds of smaller islands which are mostly sparsely populated and covered with hundreds of kilometers of hiking trails. The islands offer an excellent getaway from the bustle of downtown life and for some even a place to live.

as well as more than 200 offshore islands, the largest of which is Lantau island. Of this total area, less than 25% is developed due to the steep mountainous terrain. 40% of the developable land remaining is reserved for parks and nature reserves. Hong Kong has a reputation for being highly urbanized, but this is not entirely true. The majority of the development is on the Kowloon Peninsula and in scattered settlements in the New Territories. Where Hong Kong is developed, however, the density is high.

Hong Kong has a long, irregular and curvaceous coast line which provide it with an abundance of bays, rivers and beaches. Its highest peak is Tai Mo Shan at 957 meters above sea level. The mountainous terrain and tall buildings tend to trap smog, though 80% of that smog is created in other areas.

hong Kong island disTriCTs

hong Kong adMinisTraTive disTriCTs

Chai Wan

Tai Long Wan

Shek O

Hok Tsui

Tai Tam Bay

Wan Cham Shan

Pak Pat Shan

Chung Hom Kok

Stanley

The Twin

Tai Tam

Tai Tam Tuk

Mount Parker

Siu Sai Wan

Sai Wan Ho

Jardine’s Lookout

Quarry BayNorth Point

Tai Hang

Happy Valley

Wong Ngai Chung Gap

Repulse Bay

Causeway Bay

Wan Chai

Convention Centre

Central

Mid-level

The Peak

Deep WaterBay

Ocean Park

Wang ChukHang

Aberdeen

Ap LeiChau

Sheung Wan

VictoriaPeak

Garden

Pok Fu Lam

Wah Fu

Mount Davis

KennedyTown

The New Territories1. Islands2. Kwai Tsing3. North4. Sai Kung5. Sha Tin6. Tai Po7. Tsuen Wan8. Tuen Mun9. Yuen Long

Kowloon10. Kowloon City11. Kwun Tong12. Sham Shui Po13. Wong Tai Sin14. Yau Tsim Mong

Hong Kong Island15. Central and Western16. Eastern17. Southern18. Wan Chai

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pat essentials xe

43Regional map PREPARATIONS

pat essentials xe

42 Regional mapPREPARATIONS


4544 PREPARATIONS PREPARATIONSClimateClimate

Compared to many other major centers in Asia, Hong Kong has a surprisingly

comfortable climate. That being said, it does have an oppressively hot and humid summer season. It does not have, however, the frigid cold winters of Beijing or Seoul, nor the narrow comfort zone of Shanghai. The sea and mountains have a moderating effect that many expats find unique in Asia.

Hong Kong has a sub-tropical climate which is temperate for about half the year. November and December are considered the best months and have pleasant breezes, comfortable temperatures and an abundance of sunshine. January and February are generally characterized by dry northerly winds, clouds and cold fronts. Urban areas can occasionally dip below 10° C, and at higher elevations and in the New Territories sub-zero temperatures are not unheard of.

Pleasant weather mixed with spells of high humidity best describe March and April. During these months there is often a lot of fog and drizzle, which can occasionally disrupt air traffic and ferry service due to reduced visibility.

Between May and August the weather gets oppressively hot and humid for most people, particularly those from northern climes. Temperatures regularly exceed 31° C during the day and cool to only 26° C at night, leaving most reaching for the air conditioner remote control. During the summer there are frequent

showers and thunderstorms, with a dry spell of about a week arriving sometime in July.

Tropical cyclone season runs from May to September. In the western North Pacific and China Seas about 31 cyclones form each year, with about half of them reaching typhoon strength (winds of 118 km per hour or more).

When a cyclone moves within about 700 km of Hong Kong there is heavy and widespread rain which can cause flooding and landslides. When a cyclone remains at least 1000 km from the city, the weather is usually fine, though exceptionally hot with evening thunderstorms.

80% of the rain that Hong Kong sees falls between May and September, with August the wettest month. Different areas vary significantly in the amount of rain they see, with for example Tai Mo Shan seeing 3000 mm or more and Waglan Island seeing less than half that amount.

CliMaTe

earThquaKes

Rest assured that Hong Kong does not fall within the infamous ‘ring of fire’ that has made headlines in recent years, as it lies within the Eurasian Plate – it is susceptible to tremors, however. Since record-keeping began in 1979 through to 2008 there have only been 55 tremors felt in Hong Kong, with none causing any damage.

The only earthquake known to have caused minor damage was the 1918 Shantou earthquake, which reached VII on the Modified Mercalli Scale.

BELOW: Storm clouds gathering over the city

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4746 PREPARATIONS PREPARATIONSPolice and GovernancePolice and Governance

As of 2007, Hong Kong’s police force had almost 28,000

members with an additional 4,800 civilian employees. Formerly known as the Royal Hong Kong Police Force until the handover in 1997, the Hong Kong Police Force operates under Hong Kong Basic Law. It also abides by the British constabulary tradition of preserving life and property, detecting and preventing crime as well as keeping the peace.

Interpol and the FBI rate the Hong Kong Police Force as one of the most professional and well trained police forces in the world. This reputation is reflected in the 90% confidence rate that the public holds in the force.

Though 99% Chinese, the force has retained a cosmopolitan element. 185 Europeans serve on the Hong Kong Police Force in positions ranging from Inspector to Assistant

Commissioner, and there are a handful of Indian, Pakistani, Thai, Singaporean and Malay nationals represented.

By almost any standard Hong Kong has a low crime rate. As with any big, congested city, however, one should exercise caution when in crowded areas as pickpockets will take advantage of those who appear unaware of their surroundings. Though rare, violent crime does exist. A number of so-called acid attacks occurred in 2008, involving individuals throwing corrosive liquid from multi-story buildings onto the crowd below. There were a number of injuries from the attacks which, according to the Hong Kong Police, were indiscriminate in nature.

Overall, you can expect your time in Hong Kong to be generally very safe. The majority of expats report that most of Asia feels very safe compared to major Western cities.

poliCe forCe governanCeMost who knew

Hong Kong before the 1997 handover say that you would be hard pressed to tell the difference

today.

BELOW: The Hong Kong

Police Force is considered one

of the best in the world.

Hong Kong is governed under the policy of “One Country, Two

Systems” established in accordance with the Sino-British Joint Declaration after the handover of the colony to China in 1997. As a special Administrative Region of mainland China, Hong Kong continues to enjoy a good deal of autonomy in all areas except defense and foreign affairs. The Joint Declaration guarantees the rights and freedoms of Hong Kong citizens for 50 years after 1997. The declaration also states that the region will maintain its capitalist economic system.

Hong Kong is governed under the tenets of the Basic Law, which outlines the executive, judicial and legislative authorities for the region; however, final authority for interpretation of the Basic Law rests with the Standing Committee of the National People’s Congress. Since the handover, issues relating to the implementation and interpretation of the Basic Law as well as universal suffrage have been hotly debated political topics. In some cases, legislation that was thought to infringe on the rights of the citizenry has met with fierce resistance and been prevented from passing into law.

Hong Kong’s completely independent legal system continues to follow the English Common law tradition established under British rule, in contrast to the civil law system of mainland China. Precedents from other common law jurisdictions are referred to by Hong Kong’s courts in making their decisions and judges from other common law jurisdictions are allowed to sit on the Court of Final Appeal on a non-permanent basis.

The groups commonly known as the triads are the equivalent of Italy’s Cosa Nostra, or the Mafia in the US. Authorities say that they are involved in a wide range of criminal activities stretching across the globe and they have been the subject of many Hong Kong and Hollywood movies. What is not commonly understood is that the Triads originated with a far different mandate.

When the Manchurians took over China and formed the Qing Dynasty, the earliest known triads were formed as a resistance force to what was seen as foreign invaders in a predominantly Han Chinese country. Their influence spread across China and they eventually came to call themselves the Three Harmonies Society. They adopted the triangle as their symbol, which is where the British authorities acquired their nomenclature for the group.

With the fall of the Qing Dynasty in 1911, members of the Triads were left disenfranchised after years living as outlaws. Unable to return to their lives as normal citizens, some turned to crime as a means of survival and today’s iteration of the triads was born.

With the Communist victory on the mainland in 1949 came much stricter law enforcement. Mainland triad groups migrated to Hong Kong to escape the crackdown. By 1950 there were an estimated 300,000 triad members in Hong Kong operating under eight main divisions. Following riots in 1956, British law enforcement in Hong Kong became much stricter and the triads less active.

Today, authorities say, the triads’ main sources of income are counterfeiting and trafficking in illegal software and pornography.

RighT: Hong Kong Police speed boat

The Triads


4948 PREPARATIONS PREPARATIONSBooksBooks

booKs

Relocating to a new part of the world can be particularly challenging under the best of

circumstances. In cases where you are moving to a completely foreign culture those challenges have the potential to seem insurmountable because you don’t know what to expect. One of the goals of expat essentials is to remove some of the mystery so that you will feel more comfortable and prepared for your journey.

This section is particularly important to the successful process of moving your life to Hong Kong. We have carefully selected titles that we feel cover a broad range of topics in the hope that you will find something that is both enjoyable and useful.

The lasT governor Jonathan Dimbleby (1998) 461 pagesLittle, Brown and Company

The Last Governor is a revealing examination of Chris Patten’s tenure leading up to the handover of Hong Kong to the Chinese in 1997. During that time Patten enjoyed huge popularity in the colony while clashing with the mainland authorities over the future of democracy in Hong Kong.

a Modern hisTorY of hong Kong Steve Tsang (2007) 334 pagesMacmillan

Tsang’s documenting of Hong Kong’s rollercoaster history from the Opium Wars to the Handover is both definitive and thoroughly engaging. His account takes a balanced approach between Chinese and British influences while placing ordinary Hong Kongers as the key characters.

MY CounTrY and MY people Lin Yutang (1936) 349 pagesWilliam Heinemann LTD.

Lin Yutang was the Harvard-educated inventor of the Chinese typewriter as well as the author of arguably the definitive work on the Chinese mentality. My Country and My People offers piercing insight into the character and personality of Chinese people and is written with the purpose of explaining China and its people to Westerners. As such it is a must-read for those interested in looking deeper than the

consumer-oriented surface of the people of Hong Kong.

ThinK liKe ChineseZhang Haihua and Geoff Baker (2008) 194 pagesFederation Press

Think Like Chinese explains Chinese thought and business culture from the Chinese perspective. Zhang and Baker show how Chinese language, history, philosophy and ethics continue to shape beliefs in modern China. They share their experiences and observations, garnered from years of investing and managing businesses in China, and provide strategies for overcoming the cultural barrier. (Review courtesy Federation Press)

poorlY Made in China: an insider’s aCCounT of The TaCTiCs behind China’s produCTion gaMePaul Midler (2009) 241 pagesJohn Wiley & Sons Inc.

Voted best book of 2009 by the Economist, Poorly Made in China is a must-read for business people looking to outsource manufacturing to China. Midler offers insightful commentary based on first-hand experience which both enlightens and entertains. In addition, the book has many laugh-out-loud moments that highlight the clash of cultures between East and West.

Kowloon Tong Paul Theroux (1998) 260 pagesMariner Books

Kowloon Tong is a typically gripping Theroux thriller embodied within a stinging critique of Hong Kong’s British elite. The tale ties together inept British, corrupt mainland businessmen and the Hong Kong underworld amid the uncertainty surrounding the takeover of the city by mainland authorities.

asian godfaThers: MoneY and power in hong Kong and souTheasT asiaJoe Studwell (2008) 368 pagesGrove Press

This is a region that hums with business and money, and Studwell's book is a fascinating look at the last 150 years of Southeast Asia with an eye to the larger trends that have developed it into the vibrant region it is today, with both

huge wealth and massive inequality. Read this to find out who has the real power, and how they guard this fact secretly. An excellent read for anyone interested in the realities of influence and wealth.

gweilo: MeMories of a hong Kong Childhood Martin Booth (2005) 269 PagesBantam Press

Gweilo is an evocative memoir of personal stories filled with anecdotes of a 1950s Hong Kong filled with British naval officers, drunken expats and rickshaw drivers. It is a powerful account of an exotic colonial Hong Kong that has long since passed.

hong Kong: China’s new ColonY Stephen Vine (1998) 274 pagesAurum Press

This resident journalist's examination of Hong Kong’s handover to Chinese authorities in 1997 takes a personal angle that includes tales and anecdotes that are incredibly absorbing. Vine is even-handed in his criticism of both the British and the Chinese authorities, though his account is thoroughly subjective.

we shall suffer There Tony Banham (2009) 333 pagesHong Kong University Press

We Shall Suffer There is a comprehensive account of Hong Kong’s most traumatic experience, the Japanese invasion and occupation during World War II. Interviews with British, Canadian, Indian and Chinese survivors and their children help portray the harsh and cruel life within the internment camps.

MYself a Mandarin Austin Coates (2000) 250 pagesOxford in Asia Paperbacks

Myself a Mandarin is a classic autobiographical account of the life of a British Magistrate in 1950s Hong Kong. Coates’ efforts to understand the Cantonese people and deliver British justice provide a largely undated insight into the mentality of the Chinese people, as well as their often fraught interaction with the people governing them. This entertaining account is essential reading if you are planning to work in Hong Kong.

Travelers’ Tales hong Kong James O’ Reilly (1996) 439 pagesTravelers’ Tales Inc.

Travelers' Tales is a must-read for people visiting or relocating to Hong Kong. O’Reilly’s more than 50 witty insights into the city provide the reader with a rich and colorful picture of Hong Kong’s exotic sights and sounds, with stories about cultural mishaps and the city’s must-see sites.

one billion CusToMers: lessons froM The fronT lines of doing business in ChinaJames McGregor (2007) 312 pagesFree Press and Simon & Schuster

One Billion Customers is widely praised as a must-read for those going to China to do business. McGregor’s work is both colorful and cautionary and offers nuggets of wisdom and engrossing case studies that are as insightful as they are valuable. Though written about mainland China, it holds strong relevance for Hong Kong.

Tales of old hong KongDerek Sandhaus (2009) 180 pagesChina Economic Review Publishing

Pirates, plagues, pistols and poisons; with adventure of all varieties, the third installment of the popular ‘Tales’ series is a rollicking journey into colonial Hong Kong. A collection of historical odds and ends – stories, quotations, cartoons, postcards and drawings – recount in thrilling detail how a ‘barren rock’ seemingly destined to fail rose to become one of the richest trading outposts in Asia. (Review courtesy Earnshaw Books)

easT and wesTChristopher Patten (1999) 352 pagesThree Rivers Press

In East and West, Christopher Patten details his efforts to strengthen the democratic institutions of Hong Kong during his tenure as the city’s last governor prior to handover to Chinese rule in 1999. A huge bestseller when it came out, this “part memoir, part political treatise and part rattling secular sermon” details the transition as well as taking on broad topical issues. Patten was maybe the most scrutinized leader in the world at the time and this is his side of the story.


5150 PREPARATIONS Finding housing PREPARATIONSFilms

While our section on books was meant to enlighten and enrich your experience

upon relocating to Hong Kong, this section is meant to entertain and excite. Hong Kong has Asia’s most vibrant film industry and has a genre all its own. It has generated huge international stars and blockbuster movies. Below is a selection of some of Hong Kong’s biggest movies.

hard boiledDirected by John Woo (1992)Starring Chow Yun Fat and Tony Leung

If you decide to watch this movie, just remember going in that the plot and narrative are simply the canvas on which the action is painted. And action there is. Never-ending, jaw-dropping, mile-a-minute, mind-blowing action.

a TouCh of ZenDirected by King Hu (1971)Starring Ying Bai and Billy Chan

Hu’s seminal work, this is a supernatural kung fu fest akin to a Bruce Lee-style Ghostbusters, with imperial agents fighting ghosts and spirits. King Hu was the first Hong Kong director to make it big on the global stage.

drunKen MasTerDirected by Yuen Woo-ping (1978)Starring Jackie Chan

This was one of Jackie Chan’s first movies and a defining moment for the local movie industry.

a beTTer ToMorrowDirected by John Woo (1986)Starring Chow Yun Fat

This action-packed, gun-filled triad tale of brotherly hate broke all Hong Kong bos office records when it was released in 1986. Though John Woo has had bigger hits in the West, A Better Tomorrow was his breakthrough and some say his best film.

a Chinese ghosT sTorYDirected by Ching Siu-tung (1987)Starring Leslie Cheung and Joey Wang

A Chinese Ghost Story is a masterpiece of special effects with sword battles, ghosts, ghouls and of course a classic love affair.

a Chinese odYsseY (parTs 1 & 2)Directed by Jeff Lau (1995)Starring Stephen Chow

A blend of action, romance and comedy made this film a cult classic and one of Hong Kong’s most popular films.

infernal affairsDirected by Andrew Lau and Alan Mak (2002)Starring Andy Lau and Tony Leung

Hong Kong loves movies about undercover cops and the triads, and there is no shortage of them. Infernal Affairs reworked the genre into a gripping thriller that was remade by Martin Scorsese as The Departed.

so Close (2002)Directed by Corey YuenStarring Qi Shu and Wei Zhao

So Close is a slick action thriller with great kung fu and CGI. If you are looking for a bit of fun and good fights, this is the movie for you.

bulleT in The headDirected by John Woo (1990)Starring Tony Leung and Jacky Cheung

Woo mixes in a bit of drama between all the shooting and blood in Bullet in the Head. The action scenes are still amazing and heart-pounding. Some call this his Apocalypse Now.

The KillerDirected by John Woo (1990)Starring Chow Yun Fat and Danny Lee

Considered one of John Woo's best films, The Killer has characters you care about combined with all the action you can take, including one of the most epic shoot-outs in movie history.

new legend of shaolinDirected by Jing Wong and Corey YuenStarring Jet Li

New Legend of Shaolin has a wacky sense of humor and some excellent kung fu.

eleCTionDirected by Johnnie To (2005)Election is Hong Kong’s beautifully crafted answer to The Godfather, with explosive action and triads galore.

RighT: Avenue of the Stars in Hong Kong

filMs


5352 PREPARATIONS PREPARATIONSHealth preparationsHealth preparations

healTh preparaTionsWhen considering an international assignment, most people tend to consider the location, salary and package above all else. It is only when they have accepted the assignment and are beginning relocation procedures that concerns over such issues as health care come to be considered. Many times those considerations only amount to whether there is an insurance plan or not. It is, however, essential that you consider health care preparations carefully before you depart and during your look-see visit. This section will provide you with a framework that should put your mind at ease and prepare you for your journey.

healTh reCordsIf you or your family members have pre-existing health issues, it is essential to inform your doctor early about your impending relocation and seek their advice. You may need to take copies of health records to forward to the physician in Hong Kong. If possible, visit a doctor while on your look-see trip to ensure that you are fully prepared for the move. During the visit discuss the medications that you or your family members are taking to ensure that they can be acquired in Hong Kong. Also make sure that you take ample amounts of the prescriptions that you or your family members require, so that you don’t need to rush to a doctor during your initial period after arrival.

If you see a specialist for annual checkups it is important to schedule a visit before you depart. Though there is excellent health care available in Hong Kong, the relationship you have with your specialist cannot be easily duplicated.

Travel insuranCeGet some supplementary travel insurance. You may not think it necessary, but the logistics of getting your health insurance set up in Hong Kong may not be completely known before departure. Travel insurance tends to be inexpensive and many companies will cover the cost as part of the relocation expenses. It is unlikely that you will need it, but the one time that you do it may save you a lot of money or even your life, if you need a medivac flight home due to an accident or unknown medical condition.

geT Your vaCCinaTions earlYMany people leave vaccinations too late, thinking that they only require a simple trip to the clinic. The truth is that some vaccinations must be taken up to three months before departure and others require multiple shots that are weeks apart. There is no harm in putting vaccinations at the top of your to-do list alongside consular procedures. Also, remember to take your vaccination card with you when you leave, as you may be asked by health professionals which vaccinations you have had and it is best not to guess.

An important factor to consider when getting your vaccinations is the places you will be traveling to for work or leisure during your stay. One of the huge benefits of an assignment in Hong Kong (and often overlooked by expats before they depart) is that you are within a few hours' plane ride of some of the most spectacular vacation spots in the world. From the always popular Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia, the Philippines and Singapore to more exotic places like Laos, Nepal, Taiwan and Indonesia, you will find yourself in the luxurious position of trying to decide where to go for the long weekend. Preparing for the likelihood of regional travel means that not limiting your vaccinations to only those required for Hong Kong is an excellent idea. Consult your doctor or visit a website such as www.cdc.gov to learn more about what vaccinations are needed for Hong Kong and other destinations you are interested in visiting.

avian flu and infeCTious diseasesGiven that Hong Kong is a hot, humid metropolis of 7 million people packed into an area better suited to a fraction of that number, it is not surprising that infectious diseases such as SARS (Severe Acute Respiratory Syndrome) and Avian flu have had outbreaks in Hong Kong. While SARS has been effectively contained with no new cases since 2003, Avian flu has made sporadic annual comebacks but only rarely causes fatalities.

That said, while it is wise to be aware of infectious diseases in Hong Kong, they should not affect your decision to move there, nor are there specific preventative measures you can take to prepare yourself and your family

Typhoid

Hepatitis A

Diphtheria

Hepatitis B

Tetanus

Polio

Strongly recommended




Ensure it is up to date

Ensure it is up to date

10 days before travel

2 weeks before travel

3 months before travel

2 months before travel

N/A

N/A

prepare a firsT aid KiT

vaCCinaTion reCoMMendaTion when

While it is true that pharmacies in Hong Kong will carry all the over-the-counter medicine that you find at home, they may not carry the specific brands you are used to. To avoid any difficulties during your move, it is a good idea to prepare a first aid kit with some of the medicines you or your family members regularly use. Here is a list of some medicines to consider for your kit:

Antihistamine tablets – good for allergies, itching, skin rashes and insect bites. Hong Kong is a completely new environment and may bring new allergies.

Laxative – Good for constipation. Unfamiliar food and travel can cause acute constipation, which can be very uncomfortable and make your already stressful situation even more so.

Loperamide (immodium) – Good for diarrhoea. Immodium is your friend and never forget to take some when you travel, as changes in food and environment can cause diarrhoea.

Antacid – Good for indigestion and heartburn. Traveling and new food can often cause indigestion and heartburn.

Painkillers – Good for... pain! Take your preferred brand in blister packs so they don’t get exposed to moisture.

Condoms – Good for preventing pregnancy or sexually transmitted diseases. Men are often partial to a specific brand and style and you can’t expect to find the exact one you want in Hong Kong.

Antiseptic wipes – Good for disinfecting cuts and other wounds. Take some pre-packaged individually wrapped antiseptic wipes to clean those nicks and cuts that are sure to happen along the way.

Band-aids – Good for minor cuts and blisters.

Thermometer – Some disposable paper thermometers are always handy to check on your own health and your family’s.

Dimenhydrinate (gravol) – Good for nausea and motion sickness. Gravol is an excellent addition to your first aid kit.

While in urban areas mosquitoes are pests but under control, in rural areas they are more prevalent. If you are traveling outside the city, take mosquito repellent and wear long sleeves. Though rare, Japanese Encephalitis cases are reported each year.

54 PREPARATIONS Insurance

When preparing for your Hong Kong assignment you’ll

undoubtedly want to start thinking about insurance – particularly home contents insurance, if you’re relocating with your household goods. While your belongings will be insured by your relocation company door to door, you should look into finding suitable home contents insurance for your entire stay in Hong Kong.

It may be worth checking whether your current insurer, if it’s a global company, can pass you on to its Hong Kong branch with a recommendation and the chance of a discount in order to keep your business, and the fact that almost every major global insurance company has operations in Hong Kong means that there are many home contents insurance products designed with the needs of foreigners relocating here in mind. Where there’s a market Hong Kong fills it, and the long-term, thriving foreign population here means there are also plenty of companies looking for the business once you’re already on the ground.

Your company may already have all of this covered for you as part of your package. If not, you should consider how valuable your possessions are, since there are policies that cover things like wine, fine art and jewelry specifically – make sure the total coverage will make your most expensive items replaceable.

Another thing to bear in mind in Hong Kong is the annual typhoon season, which can break windows, damage awnings and window frames, and generally wreak havoc. Your new residence will have been designed with this in mind, but some storms are bigger than others. Have a chat with your broker about

whether this is something you need to worry about; your landlord will be responsible for the exterior, but find out the consequences if your personal items inside your home are damaged – think waterlogged rugs or broken vases.

Of course, you need to decide whether to bring valuables to Hong Kong at all. If you don’t expect to be here more than a couple of years, any expensive pieces of art, for example, might profit from staying home or being kept somewhere appropriate. But for many people, bringing their favorite items from their home country, whether they are expensive or of emotional value only, is part of making a new home.

Some expats take long breaks from the city, and a two-month disappearance during school holidays is not unheard of. You should find out if this is relevant to your insurance coverage – it would be adding insult to injury (not to mention the financial hit) to lose your stuff and then find it wasn’t covered due to your long-term absence. Conversely, if you travel with expensive items, you should see about having them covered as your possessions while you are away as well as while you are at home. Make sure you don't forget to ask about the various complicating factors of the Hong Kong business travel life.

Given the stressful nature of the relocation process as a whole, we recommend you take out a home contents insurance policy for the duration of your stay in Hong Kong. Rates are reasonable, and it simply makes sense to eliminate potential causes of stress where possible. After all, it’s the accumulation of those stress points that has the potential to lead to unhappiness, a form of culture shock in itself, and ultimately assignment failure.

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5756 PREPARATIONS Finding housing PREPARATIONS 57Financial preparations PREPARATIONSFinancial preparations

onCe you’re taLKing about something as important as you anD your

FamiLy’s FinanCes, get proFessionaL FinanCiaL aDViCe

about the impLiCations oF

moVing here

”

Now that you’ve decided to make the move to Hong Kong, you’ll have todealwithsomeofthefinancialnitty-grittythatcomeswithit.Don’t

delay on this, and make sure you plan ahead. This is not the time to run short offunds,andyoudon’twanttofindyourselfshellingoutinbankpenaltiesfor late payment or getting hit by taxes you shouldn’t have to pay. The good news is that people move to new countries every day, and as long as you get the advice you need in good time you shouldn’t have any problems.

By Wade DawsonSenior PartnerAusten Morris Associates

First things first: Don’t take our word for any-thing. Once you’re talking about something as important as you and your family’s finances, get professional financial advice about the im-plications of moving to Hong Kong from your home country. Your firm may well provide some advice, but we highly recommend you talk to an independent advisor as well. Don’t leave anything to chance.

With that out of the way, here are some of the things you need to have on your mind. Think of this as a tool to help you know what you should be discussing with a professional finan-cial advisor.

• Think about the payments you’re making, as well as the ones you will need to make. Cancel any direct debits you have in good time. This includes mobile phone bills (un-less you want to keep the service running in your home country for some reason), Inter-net and so on. (Not really financial, but as an aside, magazine and newspaper subscrip-tions should be dealt with at least a month ahead, since the request often takes a while

to filter through the system. We suggest you put a hold on them until you are sure of your new address, and even then you should con-sider sending them to your office rather than home for convenience.) Of course, if there

Financial PreParations For going abroad

• are direct debits you need to keep, such as mortgage payments, figure out how to make sure there’s always enough cash in your ac-count when they come due each month. You may also find you need to add new direct debits so that certain bills are automatically paid.

• Let your bank or banks know that you’re moving to Hong Kong, and contact credit card companies separately if needed. The last thing you need right after you arrive here is to have a stop put on your credit cards because, from the bank’s point of view, mysterious overseas transactions are suddenly showing up. Once you’re settled, let them know your address – even better, have them provide statements through online banking rather than paper statements. It might be useful to tell them what bank you will be using here in advance – ask your company if they choose a specific bank as a matter of course when helping new arrivals open an account.

• Related to the point above, make sure you have plenty of space in your credit limit and (ideally) a fair bit of available cash when you first arrive. Costs can be unpredictable in the first couple of months in a new country, and you certainly want to have emergency money handy. Get your company to help get you set up with a local credit card drawing on your HKDaccount as quickly as possible once you’re in place.

• Decide whether you want to keep your main home bank account open. This is rec-ommended if you plan to return after just a few years, and will save you the rigmarole of opening a whole new account. It’s also good for your credit record. Talk to your bank and find out how much money needs to be in the account to keep it active.

• Set up online banking. Most banks offer this now, and if you’ll be moving money between your home account and Hong Kong it will make life considerably easier. Hong Kong banking is highly sophisticated and offers all sorts of online options.

• Consider whether this is the time to set up an offshore bank account – i.e. an account that is neither in Hong Kong nor your home coun-try. There may be tax advantages and you should be able to use multiple currencies, as well as get a good interest rate for long-term savings. Discuss this option with your advisor.

• Get your tax situation cleared up. You’ll have to declare that you will be living and work-ing in another country. For Americans, their income while living abroad is subject to US taxes; for most other countries, you will be taxed in Hong Kong with salary deducted at source. No matter where you’re from, you need to find out if you should be filing a tax return every year while you’re away. However, perhaps you have income at home from property or investment; perhaps having no domestic income affects your deductions. Don’t delay on this one: not only do you want to make sure you fully comply with the law in both countries, but you also want to set things up in the most tax-efficient man-ner possible. You should discuss this with both your firm and an advisor – ideally one who specializes in international taxation as these issues are the most complex.

There’s nothing to worry about here if you get your ducks in a row as early as possible – make sure you let your financial advisor and/or tax expert do all the heavy lifting and follow their direction, and your time in Hong Kong will be just as profitable as it is exciting.

W ade Dawson has worked as a China-based financial adviser for the past ten years, helping individuals and families achieve their financial goals. He is a Sen-

ior Partner at Austen Morris Associates and lives in Shanghai with his wife and two children. As a result of his insights, he has served as a seminar speaker, given numerous interviews and written articles for multiple publications on a range of financial plan-ning topics. He is dedicated to providing high-quality advice and creating integrated wealth management solutions that simplify his clients’ lives. Wade recognizes that there is no one-size-fits-all approach to private wealth management and thus designs investment advice that is unique to each individual client. He and his team aim to achieve returns and service that exceed their clients’ expectations. Th

e a

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5958 PREPARATIONS PREPARATIONSVisasVisas

All nonpermanent residents of Hong Kong are required to obtain a work visa in order

to work in Hong Kong. Work visas are generally sponsored by the company you work for and should be obtained prior to your arrival in the city. All work visas allow trailing spouses to work, but they must inform the Immigration Service prior to starting work.

Compared to other global destinations, Hong Kong has fewer visa types and they don’t generally document them as well. Hong Kong immigration officers have a great deal of latitude in interpreting each application and tend to treat each one as unique. If you are being relocated to Hong Kong by your company it is likely that your HR department will take care of the details of your visa application for you.

If you are taking care of the details of your visa application yourself, visit the Government of Hong Kong Immigration Department website at www.immd.gov.hk/ehtml/hkvisas.htm to see a list of the types of visa and the procedures you need to follow in order to make the appropriate arrangements. Do not delay as processing problems can multiply the time necessary to complete the process.

Rather than embassies or consulates abroad, Hong Kong has Economic and Trade Offices (HKETOs), of which there are currently 11 outside China. They are in Berlin, Brussels, Geneva, London, New York, San Francisco, Singapore, Sydney, Tokyo, Toronto and Washington, D.C.. These offices can process your applications and in cases where you reside in a country without a HKETO, diplomatic missions of the People’s Republic of China are obliged to represent Hong Kong’s interests. Applications submitted to PRC diplomatic missions abroad are sent to the Immigration Department of Hong Kong for processing and may require more time to process.

It is important to remember that should bureaucratic problems arise, there is almost always a solution.

Following are explanations of the two most common types of work visas.

eMploYMenT visaTaking about four to six weeks to fully process, the employment visa is your proof of permission from the Hong Kong government to be employed in the city. They are usually granted for a one-year term initially and can be extended for up to three years. If you work and pay taxes in Hong Kong for seven continuous years, you will become eligible for permanent residency status. Employment visas are nontransferable between companies, thus requiring a new application should you decide to leave your company for another opportunity.

To be eligible for an employment visa your company must demonstrate that your skill set qualifies you for the position as well as prove that local talent could not do the job sufficiently. Applicants’ professional background, education (university degree required), experience and knowledge are all considered relevant in the application process. You must also have a clean criminal record.

The Immigration Department also inspects the job offer itself, looking for evidence of the importance of the position in the total salary. Though no official cut-off figure is cited by the Department, salaries below USD 2000 per month are said to be often rejected. Individuals are rarely granted employment visas except in the case of freelancers, and these are rare.

invesTMenT visaInvestment visas are for the self-employed. The process for obtaining an investment visa involves detailing proposed business activities, capital and promises of work as well as your own education, experience and knowledge. Though no official amount is recognized, the monthly income your business will generate has a bearing on the application (some say USD 20,000 is the cut-off), as does the potential benefit to the community in terms of the service provided or the number of locals employed. If your application is based on a sole proprietorship, a permanent resident will need to sign a guarantee of payment for costs associated with your potential deportation.

The Hong Kong government website at www.investhk.gov.hk has a number of useful documents regarding business establishment in Hong Kong. Alternatively, many individuals choose to use corporate services companies to help set up their businesses due to the wide range of choices available, the relatively low cost and primarily the highly streamlined process. Google “Hong Kong corporate services” for an extensive list of possible options.

hK id CardsIt is an explicit requirement of the Hong Kong Immigration department that anyone staying in Hong Kong for more than 180 days must apply for a Hong Kong ID card within 30 days of arrival. You must have a valid work visa to apply. The Department’s website at www.immd.gov.hk has all the forms and information you need to apply, though most companies will facilitate the process for their employees as a matter of standard practice.

You can make an appointment to get your Hong Kong ID card 24 days in advance online at www.gov.hk/en/residents/immigration/idcard/hkic/bookregidcard.htm. You can also call the 24-hour hotline at +852 2598 0888 to book your appointment.

You will be required to present your passport and a completed ROP1 form for family members over the age of 17 (ROP2 for family members between the ages of 11 and 17). These forms can be downloaded at:

• www.immd.gov.hk/ehtml/rop1.htm

• www.immd.gov.hk/ehtml/rop2.htm

During the appointment, your biometric information and photograph will be taken and you will be given a receipt with a pick-up date, usually within 10 days. If you can’t pick it up in person, you can authorize someone to get it in your stead; however, card information must be verified for discrepancies or mistakes, so retrieving in person is wise.

Hong Kong ID cards are usually valid for the duration of the work permit.

aCCessing ChinaObtaining an employment visa to Hong Kong does not explicitly open the door to travel to China even though they were ‘reunified’ in 1999. China and Hong Kong maintain completely independent immigration departments and the border between them is fully international in nature, with all the expected passport controls.

Applications for a Chinese visa can be made at the Chinese Ministry of Foreign Affairs in Hong Kong (7/F, Lower Block, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wan Chai (852 3413 2424, www.fmcoprc.gov.hk)). Visas normally take about four days with the MFA’s standard service. Expedited services are available.

Another option is China Travel Services (G/F, China Travel building, 77 Queen’s Road, Central (852 2998 7888, www.ctshk.com)). CTS is a well-known quasi-government-run organization that can speed up the application process to as little as a few hours in some cases.

For more difficult cases, Forever Bright Trading (Room 916-917, New Mandarin Plaza, Tower B, 14 Science Museum Road, TST East, Kowloon (852 2369 3188, www.fbt-chinavisa.com.hk)) has been known to get results when others fail.

It is worth noting that during large national events the Chinese government often limits the number of visas granted, based on a rule that visas should be applied for in one’s home country.

Furthermore, it is common for aspects of the regulations such as price to change with little notice. It is advisable to check the Department’s website in advance to ensure you don’t encounter any surprises.

visas

Many expatriates enter Hong Kong on a tourist visa in search of employment, due to the fact that physical presence in the city greatly increases the possibility of securing a job. Hong Kong’s generous provisions for access and visa-free stays facilitate this practice.

Should your job search extend beyond the three-month stay granted by a typical tourist visa, you can do a ‘visa run’ to Shenzhen or Macau for the day and return with a fresh stamp. Be aware however that successive ‘runs’ of three or more will raise flags and you may find yourself in trouble with the authorities.

CoMing To hong Kong in searCh of worK



Consulates Consulates

ConsulaTes

AustrAliAn ConsulAte GenerAl23/F, Harbour Centre, 25 Harbour Road, Wan Chai9am-5pm(852) 2827 8881 (852) 2585 4457www.hongkong.china.embassy.gov.auenquiries.hongkong@dfat.gov.au

ConsulAte GenerAl of DenmArkRm 2402 B, Great Eagle Centre, 23 Harbour Road,

Wan Chai10am-4pm Mon-Thurs 10am-2pm Fri(852) 2827 8101 (852) (852) 2827 [email protected]

ConsulAte of irelAnDRm.1408,TwoPacificPlace,88Queensway,

Central10am-12pm, 1-4:30pm(852) 2527 4897 (852) 2824 [email protected]

royAl norweGiAn ConsulAteRm. 1510-1512, 15/F, West Tower Shun Tak Centre,

168-200 Connaught Road, Central9am–12:30pm, 1:30–5pm(852) 2546 9881 (852) 2546 9887http://norwayportal.mfa.no/en/Norway---the-

official-site-in-China/Embassy/[email protected]

ConsulAte GenerAl of finlAnDRm 2405-2408, 24/F, Dah Sing Financial Centre,

108 Gloucester Road, Wan Chai9am-12:30pm, 1:30-5:30pm(852) 2525 5385 (852) 2810 [email protected]

ConsulAte-GenerAl of JApAn46-47/F, 1 Exchange Square, 8 Connaught Place,

Central9am-12:30pm, 1:30-5:45pm(852) 2522 1184 (852) 2868 0156www.hk.emb-japan.go.jp/eng/[email protected]

portuGAl ConsulAte GenerAlRm. 905, 9/F, Harbour Centre, 25 Harbour Road,

Wan Chai9am-1pm, 2:30-5pm(852) 2835 6660 (852) 2835 6658www.hk.emb-japan.go.jp/eng/[email protected]

ConsulAte GenerAl of the philippines14/F, United Centre, 95 Queensway, Admiralty9am-4pm(852) 2823 8500 (852) 2866 [email protected]

GreeCe ConsulAteTwoPacificPlace,88Queensway10am-12:30pm(852) 2774 1682 (852) 2705 [email protected]

ConsulAte GenerAl of mAlAysiA24/F, Malaysia Building, 50 Gloucester Road, Wan

Chai9am-5pm(852) 2821 0800 (852) 2865 1628www.kln.gov.my/web/[email protected]

south AfriCAn ConsulAte-GenerAlRm. 2706-10 Great Eagle Centre, 23 Harbour

Road, Wan Chai 8:30am-5:15pm(852) 2577 3279 (852) 2890 1975www.dfa.gov.za/foreign/sa_abroad/sah.htm#[email protected]

GenerAl ConsulAte of sAuDi ArAbiARm. 6401, 64/F, Central Plaza, 18 Harbour Road,

Wan Chai(852) 2520 3200 (852) 2520 [email protected]

netherlAnDs ConsulAte GenerAlRm. 5702, 57/F, Cheung Kong Centre, 2 Queen’s

Road, Central9am-1pm, 2-4:30pm (852) 2522 5127 Ext. [email protected]

ConsulAte GenerAl of inDiA16 D, United Centre, 95 Queensway9am-5:30pm(852) 3970 9977 (852) 2865 [email protected]

ConsulAte GenerAl of belGium9/F, St John’s Building, 33 Garden Road, Central9am-12pm(852) 2524 3111 (852) 2868 5997www.diplomatie.be/[email protected]

ConsulAte GenerAl of CAnADA 12-14/F, One Exchange Square, Central8:30am-1:30pm(852) 3719 4700 (852) 2810-6736www.canadainternational.gc.ca/[email protected]

british ConsulAte GenerAl1 Supreme Court Road8:30am–5:15pm(852) 2901 3281 (852) 2901 3204http://ukinhongkong.fco.gov.uk

the Commissioner’s offiCe of ChinA’s foreiGn ministry in honG konG

7th Floor Lower Block China Resources Building, 26 Harbor Road, Wan Chai

9am-12pm 2-5pm(852) 3413 2424 (852) 3413 2312

ConsulAte GenerAl of the ArGentine republiC1210 Jardine House, 1 Connaught Road Central10am-3pm(852) 2523 3208 (852) 2877 0906http://[email protected]

AustriAn ConsulAte GenerAl2201 Chinachem Tower, 34-37 Connaught Road,

Central9am-12pm(852) 2522 8086 (852) 2521 8773www.bmeia.gv.at/en/embassy/hong-kong/

[email protected]

eGypt ConsulAteSuite No.1, 22/F, Sino Plaza, 255-257 Gloucester

Road, Causeway Bay(852) 2827 0668 (852) 2827 2100http://egypt.visahq.com/embassy/[email protected]

ConsulAte GenerAl of brAzil2014-21 Sun Hung Kai Centre, 30 Harbour Road,

Wan Chai9:30am-5:30pm(852) 2525 7004 (852) [email protected]

GermAn ConsulAte GenerAl21/F, United Centre, 95 Queensway, Central8:30-11:30am(852) 2105 8788 (852) 2865 2033www.hongkong.diplo.de

ConsulAte GenerAl of isrAelRm 701, Admiralty Centre Tower II, 18 Harcourt

Road

ConsulAte GenerAl of frAnCe25/F & 26/F, Tower II, Admirality Centre, 18

Harcourt Road9am-12:30pm(852) 3752 9900 (852) 3752 9901www.consulfrance-hongkong.org

ConsulAte of ChileRm 1408, Great Eagle Centre, 23 Harbour Road,

Wan Chai9am-1pm(852) 2827 1826 (852) 2827 2060www.cgchile.org.hk

ConsulAte GenerAl of the CzeCh republiC1204-5 Great Eagle Centre, 23 Harbour Road,

Wan Chai9am-5pm(852) 2802 2212 (852) 2802 2911www.mzv.cz/[email protected]

ConsulAte GenerAl of itAly3206 ICBC Tower, Citibank Plaza 3, Garden Road,

Central8:30am-4:30pm(852) 2522 0033 (852) 2845 9678http://sedi.esteri.it/hongkong/english/on_

[email protected]

ConsulAte GenerAl of pAkistAnRm. 3505-9, 2 Chinachem Exchange Square, 338

King’s Road, North Point9:30am-12:30pm, 3-4:30pm(852) 2827 0295 (852) 2827 [email protected]

ConsulAte GenerAl of the republiC of koreA5-6/F, Far East Finance Centre, 16 Harcourt Road9am-12pm, 1:30-4pm(852) 2529 4141 (852) 2861 3699http://hkg.mofat.go.kr/[email protected]

ConsulAte GenerAl of the russiAn feDerAtionRm. 2106-2123, 21/F, Sun Hung Kai Centre, 30

Harbour Road, Wan Chai8:30am-6pm(852) 2877 7188 (852) 2877 7166http://www.russia.com.hk/[email protected]

polAnD ConsulAte GenerAlRm.2009,2PacificPlace,88Queensway10am-4pm(852) 2840 0779 (852) 2596 0062 [email protected]

ConsulAte GenerAl of mexiCo3004 Shui On Centre, 6-8 Harbour Road,Wan Chai9am-1pm, 3-4:30pm(852) 2511 3305 (852) 2845 3404http://portal.sre.gob.mx/[email protected]

sinGApore ConsulAte-GenerAlRm. 901, 9/F, Admiralty Centre Tower I, 18

Harcourt Road9am-12:30pm, 2-5:30pm(852) 2527 2212 (852) 2866 1239www.mfa.gov.sg/[email protected]

new zeAlAnD ministry of foreiGn AffAirs AnD trADe

6501 Central Plaza, 18 Harbour Road, Wan Chai8:30am-1pm, 2-5pm(852) 2525 5044 (852) 2845 2915www.nzembassy.com/[email protected]

[email protected]

Mon-Fri 9:30am-12:30pm(852) 2821 7500 (852) 2865 0220 [email protected]

pat essentials xe

6362 PREPARATIONS PREPARATIONSChambers of commerce

pat essentials xe

Consulates

US Consulate

AmeriCAn ChAmber of CommerCe1904 Bank of America Tower, 12 Harcourt Road

2530 6900 [email protected]

belGium - luxembourG ChAmber of CommerCeUnit 4, 1/F, Kodak House II, 321 Java Road,

North Point(852) 3115 7709 [email protected]

DutCh ChAmber of CommerCeUnit 2402B, 24/F, Great Eagle Centre, 23 Harbour

Road(852) 2815 [email protected]

finnish ChAmber of CommerCeUnit 1010, 10/F, Wing On Plaza, 62 Mody Road,

Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon(852) 2121 [email protected]

the AustriAn ChAmber of CommerCeGPO Box 8031, Central

(852) 3105 0152 [email protected]

GermAn ChAmber of CommerCe3601 Tower One, Lippo Centre, 89 Queensway,

Admiralty(852) 25265481http://[email protected]

isrAeli ChAmber of CommerCeOne Robinson Place, 70 Robinson Road,

Mid-Levels(852) 2857 4107 [email protected]

new zeAlAnD ChAmber of CommerCePO Box 10159(852) 5931 [email protected]

CAnADiAn ChAmber of CommerCeSuite 1301 Kinwick Centre, 32 Hollywood Road,

Central(852) 2110 8700www.cancham.org

ConsulAte GenerAl of spAinRm. 5303, 53/F, Central Plaza, 18 Harbour Road,

Wan Chai(852) 2525 3041 (852) 2877 [email protected]

ConsulAte GenerAl of switzerlAnDRm. 6206-07 Central Plaza, 18 Harbour Road, Wan

Chai9am-12pm(852) 2522 7147 (852) 2845 2619www.dfae.admin.ch/[email protected]

ConsulAte GenerAl of the uniteD stAtes26 Garden Road8:30am-12:30pm, 1:30-5:30pm(852) 2523-9011 (852) 2845-1598http://[email protected]

ukrAine Consul GenerAlRm.2204,22/F,OfficeTower,ConventionPlaza,

1 Harbour Road, Wan Chai10am-12:30pm 2-4:00pm(852) 2157 9393 (852) 2520 [email protected]

royAl thAi ConsulAte-GenerAl8/F, Fairmont House, 8 Cotton Tree Drive, Central9am-1pm, 2-5pm(852) 2521 6481 (852) 2521 [email protected]

ConsulAte GenerAl of sweDen8/F, Hong Kong Club Building, 3A Chater Road,

Central9am-12pm(852) 2521 1212 (852) 2596 0308www.swedenabroad.com/[email protected]

ConsulAte GenerAl of VenezuelARm. 5405, Central Plaza, 18 Harbour Road, Wan

Chai9:30am-12:30pm(852) 2730 8099 (852) [email protected]

ConsulAte GenerAl of turkeyRm. 301, 3/F, Sino Plaza, 255-257 Gloucester Road,

Causeway Bay9:30am-5:30pm(852) 257 21331 (852) 257 21331http://[email protected]

AustrAliAn ChAmber of CommerCe (AustChAm)Room 301-302, 3/F, Lucky Building, 39 Wellington

Street, Central(852) 2522 [email protected]

frenCh ChAmber of CommerCe & inDustry21/F, On Hing Building, 1 On Hing Terrace, Central(852) 2523 [email protected]

inDiAn ChAmber of CommerCe2/F, Hoseinee House, 69 Wyndham Street, Central(852) 2523 [email protected]

itAliAn ChAmber of CommerCe19/F, 168 Queen's Road, Central(852) 2521 [email protected]

norweGiAn ChAmber of CommerCeRooms 1510-1512, West Tower, Shun Tak Centre,

168-200 Connaught Road Central(852) 2546 [email protected]

sweDish ChAmber of CommerCeRoom 2503, 25/F, Bank of East Asia Harbour View

Centre, 56 Gloucester Road, Wan Chai(852) 2525 [email protected]

spAnish ChAmber of CommerCe7/F, Unit B-C, One Capital Place. 18 Luard Road,

Wan Chai(852) 2763 6236 [email protected]

swiss ChAmber of CommerCeSuite 6206-07 Central Plaza, 18 Harbour Road,

Wan Chai(852) 2524 0590 [email protected]

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Road, Wan Chai (852) 2824 2211www.britcham.com

uAe ConsulAte GenerAlRm. 2205-6, 22/F, Mass Mutual Tower, 38

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ChaMbers of CoMMerCe

DAnish ChAmber of CommerCePOBox6523,GeneralPostOffice,Central(852) 2851 [email protected]

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6564 PREPARATIONS PREPARATIONSRelocation checklist Relocation checklist

4. Educate yourself and your family – Start with the books and websites recommend-ed by this guide and then continue your re-search on the Internet. Keep in mind that the value of what you find online can be dubious unless recommended by a trusted source. Infor-mation you find may also be out of date, as Hong Kong is a rapidly changing city.

Colleagues already on assignment in Hong Kong, as well as colleagues who have complet-ed assignments, can be a valuable source of in-formation. When taking advice in this fashion, keep in mind that your source may have very different priorities and lifestyle preferences.

5. Check compatibility of your electrical devices – You may need converters for your laptops and appliances. Though they can be acquired in Hong Kong, it is not something you want to find out as you try to charge your phone or laptop upon arrival. Almost all outlets in Hong Kong employ Type G or A sockets (see www.electricaloutlet.org/type-g), and the grid is 220 V and 50 Hz.

9. Make the list – Decide what you will be taking and start making a master list. This will change as you get closer to departure with some things being added and some cut. Be aware of your budget and consult with your re-location company if you have questions about the volume of the goods you want to take.

10. Confirm insurance – Contact your in-surance agent and confirm any changes to your insurance policies that are necessary due to your relocation.

11. Deal with memberships – Contact any organizations for which you have a paid mem-bership and arrange to end, suspend, sell or transfer your membership prior to your depar-ture.

12. Collect professional papers – Obtain officially authorized copies of degrees,

The decision to relocate sets in motion a number of key events. One event that can

quickly raise the level of stress in a transferee’s life is trying to physically and mentally plan and adapt to living and working in a new location. While there’s the expected stress of a new job and a new location, there’s also the stress of be-ing separated from family and friends, as well as the reality of being removed from familiar surroundings for an uncertain length of time.

Thorough and timely preparation for your re-location is the key to ensuring that the entire complex process will proceed with as few prob-lems as possible. With that in mind, expat es-sentials has compiled for you a comprehensive relocation checklist that covers a wide range of relocation types. You can rest assured that by carefully considering all the points in our check-list, you will have the best advice available. Keep in mind that while we suggest timeframes for action, many points can be initiated as soon as you confirm your move. Getting ahead of things is never a bad idea.

6. Research schools – If you have children, start familiarizing yourself with the available options for international schooling. Read our Education section (page 86), conduct supple-mental research and then get in touch with ad-missions officers as early as possible. They will tell you which documents your child’s school will need to provide you for their application process. Collect these documents for all your children as soon as possible.

7. Confirm health care requirements –Read our section on health care carefully. Get checkups, vaccinations and extra prescriptions, confirm your health insurance and get supple-mental travel insurance if necessary. Speak to your doctor about medical records and ask if you will need to take them with you.

8. Make a plan for your family vehicle – Whether you will be storing, selling or, in the rare case, shipping your vehicle to Hong Kong, make the plan early. It is better to arrange the sale of your car a few weeks prior to departure and pay for a rental rather than sell at the last minute and be forced to accept a reduced sale price. If you plan to ship your vehicle to Hong Kong, your relocation company will help you make the arrangements.

1. Renew your passport – It is a good idea to consider renewing your passport for yourself and your family before relocating, as you may find it very inconvenient to do so while abroad and the possibility exists that you may be an ex-pat for longer than you initially anticipate.

2. Confirm export / import documents – If you are taking care of your own relocation, confirm which documents are necessary to ex-port your belongings from your country and import them into Hong Kong in order to avoid any duties or taxes. This will not be a problem if you are using a relocation company, as they will take care of this for you.

3. get an international driving license – It is also a good idea to get an international driving license for yourself and your spouse or partner, as it will be required in order to acquire a driving license in Hong Kong. They are also useful as a secondary form of identification in the event of an emergency.

professional certifications and reference letters. These may not be needed but you’ll be thankful you have them if they are.

13. Pre-move survey – Refer to our section on the pre-move survey and ask all the ques-tions you need to know the answers to. This will ensure that you have no unwanted surprises during the moving process. Know the require-ments, allowances and the risks. Knowing what to expect will reduce your stress level dramati-cally during the move. Knowledge is power... and, in this case, peace of mind.

14. Take care of your pet – Consult our pet relocation section (page 76) and start your preparations early.

15. Plane tickets – Your company may be taking care of this for you but if they are not, it is a good idea to book early. Keep your tickets after arrival as customs may require them.

16. Car reservations – If you think you would like more flexibility during your look-see, then you might want to hire a driver. Our listings are a good place to start looking if your company is not providing you with the service.

17. hotel reservations – During your look-see, choosing the right hotel in the right loca-tion will help you get the most out of your trip. If you have a period to wait while your belong-ings arrive, then a good hotel will also ease your transition.

18. Change your address – Consult our change of address checklist at the end of this section for a list of organizations and compa-nies that you should notify of your departure.

19. Lodge documents for ease of access/safekeeping – Documents such as deeds, titles, policies, guarantees, receipts, wills, powers of attorney, marriage/birth certificates and origi-nal copies of degrees and professional certifica-tions should be securely stored prior to depar-ture. Keep in mind that while a safe deposit box will ensure security, you will not have access to it while abroad.

20. Open an offshore bank account – Many expatriates consider an offshore bank account an absolute must. Refer to our section on financial preparations for advice.

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6766 PREPARATIONS PREPARATIONSRelocation checklist Relocation checklist

35. Store critical items – Make sure all im-portant documents and items such as passports, plane tickets, keys, computers, etc are all in a safe location on moving day to ensure that the movers don’t accidentally take them as well.

36. Brief foreman – Take the moving crew foreman around your house and explain to them what needs to be moved and any special requests that you have. Do this again once they are finished to make sure nothing was left be-hind.

37. Sign and get a copy of the packing inventory – This will prevent any confusion when you take delivery of your shipment.

38. Record all utility meter readings – Pack the readings with your important docu-ments.

32. Prepare your luggage – Take into ac-count the weather in Hong Kong for the time of year when you will arrive.

33. Dry out kitchen appliances and clean fridge – If you are shipping kitchen appliances, start drying them out to avoid mildew that will accumulate during the shipping process.

34. Food for the crew – Prepare some drinks and snacks for the moving crew as it will make the process go smoother.

23. Continue cleaning – Cleaning and oil-ing bicycles and garden tools will ensure that they work well when you return. All lawn mow-ers and other engine-driven machines should have their gasoline removed as it will congeal over time and cause damage.

24. Contact details – Deliver intermediate contact details to your friends and relatives for the hotel you are staying at during your move.

25. Make your valued inventory list – All those items that would cause a serious problem if lost need to be confirmed and packaged ap-propriately.

26. Confirm all reservations – Confirm all airline and hotel reservations at least one week in advance to ensure adequate time to make alternate arrangements if necessary.

27. Reserve a parking spot for the mov-ing crew – If you live on a busy street, reserve a parking spot for the moving crew to ensure that the move proceeds on schedule and with-out interruption.

28. Arrange care for children and pets on moving day – Moving day will be chaotic enough without having to make sure that kids and pets are safe and not under the feet of the movers. If you arrange a caregiver to take the children overnight and on a fun outing on mov-ing day, it will alleviate some of the stress they may be feeling and help make the process smoother.

29. Discontinue any regular deliveries – Regular deliveries of newspapers, magazines,

21. Start cleaning – It’s a good idea to have your carpets, curtains and linens cleaned before you leave. There are numerous modern storage solutions that will ensure your bedding remains fresh for your return home.

22. Minimize – A move is a good opportu-nity to get rid of all the stuff that you don’t need. Your local charity will be more than hap-py to stop by and pick up the unused items in your house.

groceries, etc. should be cancelled. If there are magazines that you wish to continue subscrib-ing to, you can inquire as to whether they ship to Hong Kong.

30. give away plants and perishable/nonperishable foods – In the case of nonper-ishable foods, your local food bank would be a good place to donate.

31. identify airfreight items – Depending on the arrangement you have with your reloca-tion company, your shipment may arrive some time after you do. If this is the case, shipping some essential items that will not be traveling with you might be in order. Make sure to iden-tify those items and make a list.

Visas

Driving license

international driving license

Diploma and CV

Shipping inventory

Extra passport photos

Medical

Dental

School

Birth

Marriage

Bank

insurance

Passport

Post office

Financial institutions

Tax office

insurance companies

Credit card companies

Motor vehicle office

Schools

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6968 PREPARATIONS PREPARATIONSPet relocationPet relocation

Many families that are relocating face a difficult choice when it comes to the

family pet. When deciding whether to take your pet with you, it is important to balance the impact on your family with the impact on your pet. Pets are very tuned into any change in routine and a move across the world can be extremely stressful, causing eating disorders and depression in both dogs and cats. For example, if you have a dog that is used to a large yard and a lot of exercise then moving to an urban apartment that is much smaller may be quite difficult for them. If you have a cat that is unused to living in a high-rise apartment ,then concerns about open windows must be addressed if you plan to take your cat with you. The age of your pet will also be a concern, as older pets will tend not to handle the relocation as well as younger ones.

It is also true that simply being separated from you and your family will cause your pet a great deal of stress. Deciding to take your beloved family member with you can also have a very positive affect on the relocation itself by reducing the effects of culture shock on both you and your family.

If you decide to take your pet with you to Hong Kong, schedule an appointment with your veterinarian to discuss your pet’s specific needs before your pre-move visit to Hong Kong and fulfill the specific requirements in the list below (preferably at least two months prior to final departure). Take the paperwork from your veterinarian with you to Hong Kong and schedule a visit to a veterinarian in Hong Kong to ensure that you have met the requirements to avoid quarantine. Establishing a relationship with a vet in Hong Kong before your move will ensure that if your pet experiences health problems during or after the move, you will know where to go when you arrive.

Your relocation company will likely have pet relocation services, so contacting them to get more details on the services they provide is a good first step. If they do not have the services you require, then contacting a professional pet relocation company will be required.

In addition to the specific requirements listed below, this section provides you with advice on preparing your pet for the big move and a checklist to help you work through the details systematically.

peT reloCaTion

VACCiNATiONS• Rabies Vaccination & Certificate: Original Rabies Certificates are required with microchip

number included (see below) as well as the date of inoculation. The vaccine used must be the inactivated type.

FOR DOgS & CATS • Canine Distemper, Parvovirus, Hepatitis and Leptospirosis• Feline Cat Flu-Feline Calicivirus• Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis• Chlamydia Psittaci • Cat Enteritis-Feline Panleukopaenia/Feline Parvo Virus

MiCROChiPS• Dogs – All dogs must have an AVID 9-digit microchip to be registered in Hong Kong. While

this can be done when you arrive, it is best to have this done before you leave. • Cats – All cats must have an AVID 9-digit microchip or an ISO-compatible microchip to be

registered in Hong Kong.

hEALTh CERTiFiCATE• Hong Kong Health Certificate (Form VC9R)• Import Permit: An import permit is required in order to enter the country. Please contact

your relocation agent / pet relocation agent for more info.

requireMenTs for reloCaTing Your peT To hong Kong

RighT: Relaxing in Hong Kong

The Kennel (CraTe)The first and most important consideration for your pet’s relocation is the kennel in which they will be traveling. Due to the highly stressful nature of the relocation experience, the kennel you choose must have characteristics that en-sure the maximum possible safety and comfort for your pet.

Of these characteristics, the first to consider is the construction of the kennel itself. It must be a hard-shelled plastic kennel with ventilation holes on both sides and rear of the crate (see image). Wire-framed, collapsible, fabric/soft sided and top loading kennels cannot be used to transport your pet overseas.

It is also critical that you purchase a kennel that is the appropriate size for your pet. In order to determine what size is appropriate, you need to measure your pet. To do so measure from the tip of the snout to the base of the tail and – from the standing position – the floor to the top of the head. In both instances, add four inches in order to determine the correct height and depth of the kennel you need to purchase.

When standing in the kennel, your pet should be able to stand and look out the front of the kennel without having to duck its head. It should be wide enough that your pet can turn around comfortably and lie with paws extend-ed. If this is not the case, then purchase a larger kennel, since cramped quarters will add addi-tional stress to an already stressful situation and cause undo hardship. If you are uncertain, err on the side of caution.

Kennel TrainingIn order to ensure a smooth flight you should train your pet to use the kennel before the jour-ney. This is true even if you have used a kennel for transportation before, as it will ensure the least amount of stress on your pet during the move.

To train your pet, remove the top half of the kennel (all appropriate kennels should be able to be split in half) and place it in a common area of your home where they can become ac-customed to the look and smell of it. After they have become more comfortable with it, start to feed them in the kennel and put some of their favorite toys in it as well. Your pet will start to

ABOVE: This type of kennel with hard plastic construction and good all-round ventilation is appropriate for relocating your pet.

develop a positive association with the kennel, and after they do so you can put the top of the kennel and the door back on.

Encourage your pet to spend at least ten min-utes per day in the kennel. As dogs are naturally denning animals and feel secure in areas where their sides and flank are protected, your dog will most likely develop an affinity for the ken-nel and start to sleep in it regularly.

By kennel training your dog well in advance of your relocation, you will have created a safe and trusted environment in which they will be traveling and thus minimize the stress involved in the move.

preparing Your Kennel for The JourneYThe first step in properly preparing the kennel for the journey is bedding. Most typical types of bedding are fine, including shredded news-paper and piddle/pee pads as long as they are absorbent. You don’t want your pet lying in their own waste for their journey.

Next, you need to securely attach two water dishes to the inside of the door and two ap-propriately sized funnels to the outside of the door so that the dishes may be refilled without opening the door. Zip ties work best for attach-ing the water bowls and funnels.


7170 PREPARATIONS PREPARATIONSPet relocationPet relocation

Snub-nosed dog breeds often require ex-tra care when relocating overseas, due to hereditary respiratory problems which can lead to heat stroke and breathing prob-lems. As with elderly dogs, vets recommend using a kennel that is one size bigger than standard. In addition, drilling extra ventila-tion holes in the top and lower portion of the rear of the kennel will provide for more air flow in the interior of the kennel, keep-ing your pet more comfortable.

Kennel training these types of dogs is even more crucial, as stress can aggravate respiratory conditions. However, during the kennel training, remove food at night as it can be a choking hazard.

Some popular snub-nosed breeds are:

• Boston Terrier• Boxer• Brussels Griffin• Bull Terrier• Dutch Pug• Pekinese

After you have attached the water bowls and funnels and placed the bedding inside, you must ensure that your dog can still comfortably turn around and stand and look out the door without having to duck. Next, take more zip ties and secure all corners and sides to ensure that the kennel doesn’t accidentally come apart during transport.

Freeze the water in the bowls the night before your departure and replace the bowls as the journey begins. This will ensure that less water is spilled before your pet is safely on board the aircraft. Remember that sufficient hydration is is critical to the health of your pet during their journey.

Attach two meals worth of food in a sturdy sealed clear plastic bag to the top of the ken-nel. This can be used to feed your dog if the flight is delayed.

labeling Your Kennel• Affix ‘live animal’ stickers to each side of the

kennel, making sure to not place them over ventilation holes.

• Affix a name sticker to the front of the kennel, with your pet’s name on it.

• Affix a label on the top of the kennel with the following information:

• Date of departure• Departure airport• Connection stops• Destination airport• Airway Bill Number• Contact information• Pet’s name• Pet’s breed, color and age• When pet was last fed• Food and water instructions• Signature and date

• Make copies of all health documents and secure them to the top of the kennel in a sealed clear plastic pouch.

• Attach a tag to the door of the kennel including this information

• Pet’s name • Airway Bill Number• Destination• Contact information

• English Bulldog• English Toy Spaniel• French Bulldog• Japanese Chin• Japanese Pug

snub-nosed breeds

grooMing for The TripIf you have a double-coated (fur not hair) dog, one often overlooked and very helpful way to make your pet’s journey more comfortable is to have a professional groomer remove the un-dercoat before their journey. This will help to keep them cool during the journey, particularly during the summer months. If you come from cooler climes, then it would be advisable to have this done regularly in Hong Kong, as the summers are stifling.

In addition, have your dog’s nails clipped and filed so that they don’t get snagged on the ken-nel’s doors or other openings. Unless you are familiar with clipping a dog’s nails, do not at-tempt to do this yourself as you can injure your dog and cause bleeding.

It is also advisable to get your dog a sturdy collar with two identification tags if it doesn’t have one already. One tag should have your pet’s name, address and phone number on it, and the other should have your address in Hong Kong as well as your mobile number.

If your pet is more than eight years old, you should ask your vet to perform a geri-atric exam. These exams cover all vital or-gans and often require a full blood profile, which can take up to two weeks. It is es-sential that your pet’s kidneys and liver are functioning well, as they need to be fully hydrated prior to their journey since many will not drink during the trip. It is also ad-visable to purchase a kennel for your pet that is one size larger than we recommend for younger pets. More space and better ventilation will ensure that they do not get dehydrated during their trip.

elderlY peTs

peT-friendlY airlinesChoosing a pet-friendly airline is one of the easiest ways to ensure the quality of your pet’s journey. The airlines listed below have climate-controlled waiting areas for your pet following check-in, as well as pressurized climate-con-trolled cargo holds. They ensure that layovers are spent in ‘pet hotels’ or climate-controlled areas and have dedicated staff that monitor the condition of your pets during the journey. They will often also have a shuttle to transport pets after arrival in order to ensure they aren’t exposed to the elements on the tarmac.

Some pet-friendly airlines are:

• Qantas• Continental Airlines• KLM• Lufthansa• British Airways

upon arrivalAfter your pet arrives in Hong Kong, immedi-ately offer some water, and check for signs of dehydration by doing a visual examination. If your dog has sunken eyes, dry mouth or seems exhausted, they may be dehydrated. Gently pull the skin on their back to see if it returns to its original position. If they are dehydrated, the skin will stay pulled up. Gently press on their gums to see if the blood returns quickly. If it takes longer than two seconds it is likely your pet is suffering from dehydration. It is advisable to schedule a visit to the vet as soon as you ar-rive for a general health check-up.

7. Attach food and water – Secure water bowls, funnels and food to the kennel accord-ing to our recommendations.

8. Double check all documentation and labeling.

9. Confirm flight is on time.

10. give your pet some exercise.

6. Label and prepare the kennel – Affix all labels, tags and documents to your pet’s kennel. Prepare bedding and place inside the kennel. Take an old t-shirt that you or a family member has worn and place in the kennel. Fill water bowls and freeze.

4. Visit the vet – Complete all vaccinations, have a general health check, get microchips im-planted (if necessary) and obtain all necessary paperwork.

5. Confirm travel arrangements -– De-pending on how you are sending your pet, these arrangements may be taken care of by your relocation company. If they are not, con-firm your arrangements early.

1. Purchase kennel – Measure your pet and purchase a kennel according to our guidelines. Err on the side of caution with regard to size and quality. Bigger and better is best.

2. Start kennel training – You can’t start too early when it comes to kennel training. The more time your pet has to grow accustomed to their kennel, the better.

3. Research pet-friendly airlines – Due to the stress relocation will cause your pet, your research should inform the choice you make for your tickets as well. Decide whether your pet will travel in-cabin (small pets), as excess lug-gage (you must accompany them) or as cargo (consignee must be assigned to receive the pet in Hong Kong).

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73PREPARATIONS72 PREPARATIONS Look-see trip Look-see trip

TOP CENTER: Hong Kong from above

BELOW: Tsing Ma Bridge

pat essentials xe

The nature of most look-see trips can be best described as frantic.

Most expats say they simply didn’t have enough time to see all that they wanted to see and do what they felt needed to be done. This is where preparation and research become critically important. The de-cisions made during this relatively short visit will dramatically affect your life in Hong Kong and overall satisfaction with the experience as a whole. Regardless of the truth of this statement, most trips are kept short as employment requirements don’t allow for long absences.

During this trip, you will be looking at options for accommodation and, if you have a family, education (among a host of other things). What is most important is to orient yourself in the city relative to your place of employment. Then start researching different areas of the city by reading our Soft Landing Hong Kong neigh-borhood sections (p.204-271). These sections will help you compare and contrast what each neighborhood has to offer in terms of services – both essential and recreational – and prepare you for the task of choosing where you want to live. In these sec-tions, we have paid special attention to the imagery used in order to help you get a better feel for what to ex-pect of each neighborhood.

In addition, it is useful to speak to friends or colleagues that have either lived in Hong Kong or are currently there at the moment, but be aware that taste is very subjective and the needs and priorities that you have may be very different to those of your friends or colleagues. That said, gaining advice from people from the same cultural, social and economic background is an excellent way to put into perspective the advice we offer.

prioriTiZeBefore embarking on your look-see trip, take the time to think about what aspect of your new life in Hong Kong is going to be the most im-portant to you. It is likely that these priorities may differ somewhat in nature to the priorities you have cur-rently, depending on whether you have relocated in the past and the nature of that relocation. If you have never relocated overseas and you have a family, then it is likely that your concerns will focus on family matters such as education and the safety of your family.

If education is your main concern, then you should prioritize the sched-ule of your look-see trip to look at schools first. By the time you arrive in Hong Kong, you will have thorough-ly researched schools in Hong Kong through school websites and expat Internet forums so you should be able to confidently refine your list of school visits and save valuable time during your look-see trip.

If safety is your primary concern, then you should look at property

first. Inform your relocation agent of your concerns before your trip and ask them to shortlist compounds and apartments for you that meet your criteria. Research them on the Internet before you go. Post your questions on Internet forums as they may (stress may) help you form some preliminary opinions about possible residences. This will also save you time on your look-see trip.

Property will also be your main con-cern if proximity to your work is a concern. Long hours at the office can be exacerbated by long commutes and reduce time with your family and time for a social life, which are both important for mental health. Informing your relocation agent about these concerns and requesting a short list of compounds and apart-ments that are a short taxi ride from the office (or better a walk, to allow you to decompress after work) will help you find the best property for you in the shortest period of time.

Some relocating expats (even those with families) are excited about expe-riencing a new culture, feel confident

about the safety of their family in Hong Kong and understand that quality education is never far away. There are many options for living in Hong Kong off the beaten expat path. Your relocation agent needs to be aware of your desires before your look-see trip so that they can provide you with options that will satisfy you. If you want to live somewhere more unusual and immersive for your time in Hong Kong it is imperative that you do some research before you go and create a shortlist of potential properties by visiting Hong Kong real estate websites. This path can be very rewarding.

balanCeOn your look-see trip you will need to make many decisions that will significantly affect your time in Hong Kong. It is important that you define your priorities and attempt to estab-lish a balance in your life that works for you. Balance is critical and every-one is different. We have provided you a basic framework to help guide you in your decision making, but it is important to know that our advice only goes so far. Your needs and wants are the key to your happiness. Your relocation agent will be more than happy to help you achieve this balance; however, they can’t help you if you don’t have a well defined idea of what you want. So keep them well informed of your priorities and they'll make sure your needs are met.

looK-see TripExtensively

researching Hong Kong before you

take your look-see trip is essential in

order to make the most of your time.

Finding the right life balance for you is very difficult when relocating to a completely new city, country and culture. Preparation is key to ensuring that you get the most out of your look-see trip to Hong Kong.

74 75PREPARATIONSPREPARATIONS Pre-move survey Shipping and packing

If you are using a professional relo-cation company they will arrange a

pre-move survey in advance of your departure. Understanding what is involved in this process is critical to ensuring that all of your concerns are addressed and that your belongings are well taken care of from depar-ture to destination.

During the survey, your agent will take you through the entire process and explain the insurance options available to you. They will also look carefully at the items to be moved in order to accurately assess the size of the shipment. This assessment will be critical in providing you with an ac-curate quote for shipping your goods to Hong Kong.

During the survey it is very important to highlight which belongings are of particular importance to you. These may be expensive items, heirlooms,

irreplaceable items or memorabilia. In any case, your movers need you to identify these items of high impor-tance so that they may implement measures to ensure that your belong-ings are not damaged during transit, or that if they are you are adequately compensated. Don’t trust your agent to be psychic. Just because you put a yellow Post-It note on it on moving day that says 'fragile' or 'important' doesn’t mean the message got through or was even heard.

Within a few days of the survey, your relocation/moving company should be able to provide you with an esti-mate of all the costs associated with your move as well as an estimate of transit times. Based on the transit time necessary to get your belong-ings to Hong Kong, you should be able to accurately assess how long you will be without your goods. This will affect your packing process, as the longer you will be separated from your shipment the more you will have to take with you or ship separately.

For an average home of about 200 square meters, the pre-move sur-vey should take anywhere from 45 minutes to an hour and a half. It is important to consider what is going to be discussed during the survey so that your agent or moving company can provide an accurate quote and the survey can proceed smoothly and efficiently.

It is important to know that items that will be shipped by your relo-

cation or moving company should be packed by them. Boxes that you pack yourself will be marked “owner packed” on the inventory and will draw increased scrutiny from cus-toms officials and significantly in-crease the chances of your shipment being flagged for a full inspection, which is not what you want. If there are items that you wish to pack your-self, leave the cartons open for the moving crew to inspect for condi-tion and properly inventory. In most cases owner packed cartons will not receive full insurance coverage so prepare for losses if you DIY.

You should not pack essential items such as travel documents, passports/visas, medicine and the luggage that you will be taking with you on the plane. Consult our section on cli-mate to assess what you will need for clothing according to the time of year you are arriving in Hong Kong. As well, items such as jewelry, cash,

stocks, furs, coin collections (or any other valuable collectables such as writing instruments, etc), tax returns, medical papers and educational doc-uments such as diplomas or school reports should be hand packed and taken with you personally. Check with your moving company or agen-cy as they may be able to provide you with premium insurance for these items or advise you as to how to ob-tain this type of insurance.

Prohibited items such as contraband, weapons, ammunition, pornography, drugs, alcohol and perishable goods should obviously not be taken over-seas. Hazardous or flammable mate-rials such as gasoline, paint and aero-sols should also not be packed. Items such as lawn mowers should have their fluids removed before packing. Your company may also have specific guidelines regarding what can and cannot be shipped overseas so it is a good idea to check with them to ensure you are compliant with all of their policies.

In addition, you should be present during the packing and loading process ensuring that you properly inspect and sign the inventory, ship-ping documents and insurance docu-ments.

Depending on where you are located it can take anywhere from four to 12 weeks for your shipment to ar-rive in Hong Kong. Your mover or agent can confirm the length of time it will take for your shipment to ar-rive. With this timeframe in mind you should prepare to be without your shipped items for a period of time.

pre-Move surveY

shipping and paCKing

Most relocating expats (particularly families) tend to overpack when relocating overseas for fear that they will not be able to purchase items they feel are es-sential at their destination. You should keep in mind when packing that virtually anything you need can be purchased in Hong Kong. There is definitely no need to consider packing foodstuffs for your trip; there is a long-established expat community here and espe-cially if you are from the UK or the US your chances of finding what you want are very good.

You should also keep in mind that Hong Kong is a shopper’s paradise with all the major retail brands represented, often at a price comparable or slightly cheaper than in other major global cities. You will shop when in Hong Kong and you will acquire many new possessions during your time there. It is wise to remember that your relocation allowance will likely not increase for your return journey, so all your acqui-sitions will probably cost you extra to take home with you if you overpack.

Taking stock of all your items before

the pre-move survey will ensure that

the process goes smoothly.

If you don’t allow your movers to inspect and inventory your belongings then you risk customs paying special attention to your shipment.

luggage paCKing Tips

TOP CENTER: Container ship entering Hong

kong

BELOW: Busy street in Mong Kok

pat essentials xe

pat essentials xe

77PREPARATIONSEducation

Asasoon-to-beexpat,oneofthemostimportantanddifficultdecisionsyou will make is where your child will go to school. While there will be a

host of concerns and questions that arise during your search for a school for your child in Hong Kong, generally speaking, international assignees have three main concerns: the safety of their children; the happiness of their chil-dren; and the quality of their children’s education.

edUcation

safeInternational schools operating in Hong Kong can be considered very safe by almost any as-sessment. These schools invariably employ high-quality accredited staff from the Americas, Europe and the UK (among many other coun-tries) and have excellent and secure facilities and highly qualified Western management. The vast majority of expats arriving in Hong Kong report that the international schools are actu-ally safer than those they are used to in their home countries.

happYConcerns about your child’s happiness are certainly warranted, as the adjustment to a new school is often stressful and challenging, especially when combined with a move abroad. It should be comforting to know that interna-tional schools are uniquely skilled in helping newly arrived children adapt to their new en-vironment. In the sections that follow we will provide you with the tools you need to make the right choice for your child’s education, to ensure that they are the beneficiaries of the type of education you want for them, in an en-vironment offering them the best opportunity to be happy.

the stanDarD oF eDuCation at internationaL sChooLs in hong Kong Varies From institution to institution

Within a Very narroW banDWiDth at the top

oF the sCaLe

”well-eduCaTedThe standard of education at international schools in Hong Kong varies from institution to institution within a very narrow bandwidth at the top of the scale. In other words, while there may be differences between schools, in terms of quality they are generally very good. As such, you can rest assured that your child will receive a top-quality education during your time in Hong Kong.

OPPOSiTE PAgE: Inquiring minds are fostered at Harbour school


7978 PREPARATIONS PREPARATIONSEducation Education

Foreigners looking to make sure their children’s education doesn’t suffer upon

arriving in Hong Kong can put their mind at ease. The city has a range of options in English-language education (as well as French, German and others) and boasts an excellent alternative to international schools in the state-subsidised ESF system, which provides a multicultural education through English for locals and foreigners alike. It can be competitive to get into the best schools, particularly the international ones, but with a bit of planning and a healthy attitude you won’t have any problems. Here are the basic things you need to know about the system.

overviewThe main types of school in Hong Kong are the following:

• Fully funded government schools – Owned and financed by the Hong Kong government and run by the education department.

• Aided schools – The majority. Run by independent organizations but have part of their costs met by the government, based on teacher/pupil and pupil/class ratios.

• Direct Subsidy Schools (DSS) – Schools with high educational standards that are government subsidized, but also charge top-up fees and are free to use their own curricula and entrance requirements.

• English School Foundation (ESF) schools – The ESF was founded in 1967 to provide a “modern, liberal education” for expatriates. Schools are subsidized but also charge significant fees, somewhat like DSS schools. Traditionally use the British curriculum, but are increasingly likely to have made or be making the switch to the International Baccalaureate.

• Private schools – These include international schools; however, to qualify as a Private Independent School (and become eligible for government grants) at least 70 percent of students must be local.

The dominant curricula in Hong Kong are the UK (or UK adjusted) curriculum, leading

hong Kong sChool sYsTeMto GCSE and A-level exams; the International Baccalaureate; and the local Hong Kong curriculum, which is based on the UK curriculum and leads to the HKGCE or Hong Kong A-level exams (HKALE). There are also schools offering the curriculum of the US, Australia, France and more.

inTernaTional sChoolsInternational education in Hong Kong has an excellent reputation, with many locals who can afford it choosing to send their kids to international schools to improve their English and give them the global outlook and connections that this exposure can bring. It originated in part with religious organizations, with Catholic or Anglican schools rising up to meet educational and cultural needs of expatriates. It wasn’t until the 1960s, however, that the sort of education we now think of as provided by international schools started to become available, with specific nationality schools such as French. The Hong Kong International School, with a US syllabus, opened in 1966. With the boom in moneyed immigration that followed, international schools carved out their niches – Singapore, Jewish (the Carmel School), Hindi- and Urdu-language (Sir Ellis Kadoorie School), even combinations such as seen in the Norwegian International School (Christian education through Norwegian). It’s become a thriving market for international education a la carte.

While the International Baccalaureate is definitely gaining favor, as it’s seen as the most truly international and well-rounded curriculum for parents who wish their children to have options for universities worldwide, the UK curriculum remains extremely popular and the local Hong Kong system uses a localized version of it. Again, there are more specialized curriculum options available, from places like the German Swiss International School (UK / German) or the French International School, which effectively puts students straight into the French state system.

The English Schools Foundation (ESF) was set up in 1967 to provide a state-aided English-language education (UK curriculum) for native

speakers. Originally the idea was to separate students with English as their mother tongue, but by now the schools accept any students whose English is deemed good enough for them to keep up with the syllabus. The result has been the creation of an extremely multicultural (and popular) system, with over 15,000 students from 50-plus countries in a system that covers kindergartens, primary schools and secondary schools, as well as a special needs school, throughout Hong Kong. Primary school students are interviewed to see if their English is sufficiently good before being allowed to enroll; secondary students also take a written test.

proCeduresEntry to good schools in Hong Kong, whether international, ESF or local, tends to be extremely competitive, with parents pulling out all the stops to get their kids in. But there’s no need to panic; you’ll be able to get your kids into a school that you and they are happy with. You’ll have an advantage if you’re looking for a school that matches your particular niche, for example if you’re French and wish to enroll your children at a French-language school. Of course, you’ll want to contact the admissions department at each school you’re interested in for your children to find out about entrance requirements and procedures.

One concern international parents often have, given that overseas assignments have a tendency not to follow the patterns of education, is that their kids will be out of options if they arrive in Hong Kong in the middle of a school year. It’s not an unfounded fear, particularly when it comes to international schools, which tend to have long waiting lists. However, in a sense the

entry to gooD sChooLs in hong Kong, Whether

internationaL, esF or LoCaL, tenDs to be eXtremeLy

CompetitiVe, With parents puLLing out aLL the stops to get

their KiDs in

”

RighT: AISHK's campus is renowned for its beautiful outdoor landscaping

��

http://www.aishk.edu.hk



LEFT: Fun Fair at Delia School of Canada offers students a chance to relax and enjoy themselves

cause of the problem is also the solution – Hong Kong is an international city with a big expat turnover, and for every family suddenly arriving there’s a family heading off to their next stop, leaving spots available. Waiting lists can be shorter than they first seem, since many people apply to more than one school and by the time newcomers arrive have settled their kids in the one they got into. Companies are also able to take advantage of a scheme that allows them to reserve school spots for employees. In other words, there’s no need to panic – even if your child doesn’t get into an international school (and they definitely may) they’ll have a good change of finding a place at an excellent ESF school and you can decide whether you want to transfer them at the end of the school year.

inTernaTional sChools adMissionsExpect a waiting list and a competitive interview for international schools, and higher fees. Some kids get added to waiting lists by parents immediately after their birth. However, remember that these same kids tend to be on multiple waiting lists, and that not all of them will end up passing the language test. Some of them may not even be in Hong Kong by the time Junior needs to buy his first schoolbag. Being an actual expatriate will certainly be in your favor as well, since international schools strive to make sure they retain their multicultural flavor. Nonetheless, don’t tarry and don’t hesitate to apply for multiple schools yourself as well.

Once it’s clear the prospective student’s English level is sufficient, interviews focus on academic ability and past performance, and whether the child will flourish in an international environment with high academic standards. As pointed out above, people from the country, religion or community that an international school avowedly serves have an advantage, as of course do siblings of current students.

esf adMissionsThe great advantage of Hong Kong is the existence of academically excellent English-language schools that are considerably cheaper than international schools, which for expats in most cities around the world are the only option for an accessible education for their children. Fees are reasonable, although a levy of HKD25,000 per student (refunded when the

child leaves) was introduced in 2011.

Entry to ESF schools is also considerably more straightforward for foreigners compared to international schools, in part because the ESF philosophy is one of inclusion and open admissions. There is no academic standard to be met, and there are facilities for children with special needs. In fact, if your family is non-Chinese-speaking the child will be considered Category One, since they speak no Mandarin or Cantonese and thus would find local education extremely difficult. This means they have priority when it comes to admissions over Cantonese-speakers. However, the prospective student must have a standard of English considered sufficient for English-language education to be found suitable for entry. This is ascertained through an interview rather than a test.

You can apply to an ESF school in your catchment area (contact ESF to find out what that is) as well as to one or both of the ESF Private Independent Schools. Application is made online, and supporting documents are delivered to the specific school. Applications made before October 1 are looked at in random order, so there’s no advantage in applying earlier as long as you make that deadline. As

usual there are advantages to being a sibling of a current student, as well as to having attended another ESF school.

loCal sChools adMissionsIf your child is kindergarten age, there’s no reason not to consider sending them into the local system, which boasts excellent educational standards. And there’s a considerable bonus, which is that your child will emerge a few years later speaking excellent Cantonese or Mandarin. But this is not just an option for the very young; Hong Kong has local schools which teach through English, while of course also providing Cantonese and Mandarin courses on a daily basis.

You also don’t need us to tell you that it’s a myth that all foreign professionals transferred to Hong Kong are rich, or that in both mainland China and Hong Kong – and, in general, globally – companies are being more careful about allocating big all-inclusive expatriate packages. Fees for local schools are extremely affordable, and your children will be immersed in local culture in a way virtually impossible elsewhere.

But there are still reasons this tends to be

a third choice. Not all children are ready to thrive in such a different environment. Perhaps more importantly, you’ll find a heavy academic workload from quite a young age, and more pressure than Westerners generally want their children to be exposed to at school, even at secondary school stage. There’s less of a focus on the ‘whole student’ and extracurricular activities, sport, art and the like all take a back seat to academic achievement. Of course, this varies from school to school, and Hong Kong tends to do a good job of educating its children to grow into independent thinkers. Nonetheless, it’s something to very much take into account when making a decision.

You’re guaranteed a place in a state school; however, application for specific schools (known as Discretionary Place Admission) can be extremely competitive – remember, you’re competing with the local population. Different schools have different criteria at this point, with advantages if a sibling is already studying there and so on.

Foreigners interested in the local system, however, are most likely to apply to Direct Subsidy (DSS) or private schools in the local system. Here you’ll find yourself dealing with individual schools, much as you probably would back home or with international schools. Generally, once your application is accepted, your child will then have one or two interviews and a written test. There’s no central clearing system for any of this, you simply have to contact each school that interests you and find out what you need to provide and how their system works.

There’s a thriving industry of child coaching and advice for parents in Hong Kong, and some parents pull out all the stops to get their kid into the school of their choice. Whether you’ll have an advantage as a foreigner or not is hard to say – the school might be inclined to like the idea of a little diversity, or they might be worried about language and cultural differences. Generally your chances should be as good as anybody else’s – though you probably won’t have spent years planning your strategy.



Choosing a sChool

Finding the best school for your child means asking the right questions both of yourself

(so you have fully understood and articulated your priorities) and of the school (so that you can ensure that your priorities are being ad-dressed). Below are some areas where it might be useful to make a note of what you might expect from a school, and what you can reason-ably expect a prospective school to be able to provide.

faCiliTiesInternational schools will generally have im-pressive buildings, grounds and teaching and learning facilities, so it is important to remem-ber to look most closely at, and ask the most questions about, the school’s provisions that best suit your child’s interests and talents.

For instance, excellent sports grounds are important if your child is actively involved in a team or competes in an event regularly, but of less interest if they are not especially sporty; therefore, it is important that a prospective school is made aware of and understands your particular needs and enables you to see and ask questions about things that are relevant to you.

Further to this, it is also important for you to understand how a school’s facilities are used. The benefits of a talented and inspiring teach-

ing staff will generally outweigh any deficien-cies in a school’s buildings or grounds and so asking questions and making decisions based on a school’s teaching and learning philosophy and extracurricular programs is the best way to ensure that you are exploring all of your op-tions and making the choice that is right for you.

sTaffAs above, the quality of the teaching staff and leadership team is by far the most important criterion when choosing a school, but it is also one of the most difficult things to judge. The majority of international schools in Hong Kong employ accredited, Western-trained teachers and so this can make distinguishing between them a difficult task.

For parents of primary school students, it will be extremely helpful if you are able to meet the teacher whose class your child will be in, as this is the person in the school with whom they will spend the most time and who will have the greatest influence on them. Ask yourself if you like them, have confidence in them and would be happy for your child to be with them for anything up to eight hours a day. It will also

be useful to look for yourself at the work pro-duced by pupils in the class (if possible, over the course of a term or a reasonable period of time) in order to see if the level at which the class is working is appropriate for your child. Ask to have a look at the timetable to see if the school day looks balanced and contains sufficient va-riety, while a sample menu of school lunches might also help you in coming to a decision.

For parents of secondary school students, where pupils are usually taught by a number of different teachers, the most useful members of staff for you to meet will be your child’s prospective form tutor (sometimes called class teacher, or mentor), and perhaps the head of year (or the member of the leadership team with overall responsibility for your child’s year group). It would also be helpful for you to have a good understanding of the areas of study in which your child is most enthusiastic or shows the most aptitude, since while a school will aim to have high quality staff teaching in all areas, having a positive rapport with the member of staff who will teach your child’s favorite subject might be the factor that finally makes up your mind. It is important to keep in mind, however, that staff turnover is quite high at international

schools and therefore it might be helpful to talk to that teacher about how long they plan to be with the school, if you’re going to base part of your decision on the premise that they will be teaching your child.

approaChDepending on your priorities, it will certainly be worth discussing with the school what it val-ues most highly in its pupils. Some schools are unashamedly exam factories where academic achievement is prized above all, while oth-ers pay no attention to examinations and are far more concerned with pupils’ social, moral and spiritual development. Most international schools, however, tend to be a mix of the two, seeking to produce well-balanced high achiev-ers, with a strong focus on global citizenship.

Therefore, in order to get a good feel for a school’s priorities, you might want to ask: what examination boards they use; how their results compare with both national averages and their immediate competitors; which universities their graduates go on to; what community service programs pupils are involved in; pupil partici-pation in the International Award or similar de-velopment programs; and the nature and focus of their mentoring programs.

And, of course, if possible speak to the kids who go there. You can often find out more about a school simply by spending five minutes in the company of its most senior students -–those who will shortly be in the outside world, as it were – than any amount of websites and meetings with senior leadership will tell you.

loCaTionThe location of a school is a very important factor to consider, especially if your child is young. It’s important to consider how much travel your child can endure on a daily basis, especially in Hong Kong traffic. It’s also important to consider extracurricular activities and general school life, as you’ll need to make the trip to the campus regularly. It’s helpful to decide on a school before you decide where to live, or at least to do both concurrently, as this will help you mitigate certain factors and improve the quality of your choice.

basing your juDgement on a

sChooL’s program rather than the

FaCiLities is a gooD Way to ensure

you maKe the best ChoiCe

” TOP CENTER: At HKA, each child is valued as an individual



One very important but often overlooked factor to consider when choosing an inter-

national school is the size, whether the overall size of the school as a whole or the size of its in-dividual year groups or classes. Below are some issues related to school size that might help you as you make your choice.

CoMMuniTYOne potential advantage of a small school is that the parent community there will usually have developed some very close relationships and social networks. When you first arrive in your new home, a close-knit well-established community could be just what you need to help you adjust to your new life and surroundings.

inTer-sChool sporTsAlthough small schools may not offer the same breadth of choice for students in terms of sports teams, a pupil at a smaller school who may not be especially gifted athletically never-theless often has a greater chance of playing

on a school team that competes against other schools. Big schools will of course provide many opportunities for pupils to participate in intra-school competitions against their peers, but in many cases at such schools the competition to play in representative teams is intense and the majority of students therefore do not have the opportunity to experience this.

falling Through The CraCKsOne of the most significant potential draw-backs of a large school is that children who need special attention can sometimes go un-noticed. In a smaller school this is less likely to be the case, as teachers will very often have more time and opportunity to support those pupils who need additional time and attention. Furthermore, even when student-teacher ratios are the same between large and small schools, in a smaller institution it might be easier for you to connect effectively with teachers, leaders and school administrators. Close and constant communication can be invaluable in helping you to feel confident and reassured that your child is on the right track, as well as for helping you to understand how best to guide and sup-port your child at home.

ManageMenTThe relationship between the size of a school and the effectiveness of its management can have a significant effect on the quality of the educational experience that the school is able to provide. A small school administered by a capable principal or headteacher will usually

researChing sChools

Starting from our international school listings, you should start by eliminating schools that you are certain do not fit your needs. The next obvious step is to visit the school’s website and try to get a feel for the school by reading mission statements and introductions written by the principal. These steps, however, will not provide you with what you re-ally want, which is an unbiased opinion. Unfortunately, these are not easy to come by. There is no shortage of on-line threads on education, though sift-ing through responses to find ones that are genuinely helpful can be difficult. Forums are monitored by advocates for specific schools who can offer misleading or leading information. You will also find people posting that have an axe to grind with a particular school and thus provide a distorted perspective. The forums are useful, but keep in mind that many posts should be taken with a grain of salt.

have a staff that is well managed, hardwork-ing and highly accountable. Senior leaders have opportunities to observe teachers regularly and to help them develop professionally, which also contributes positively to the quality of the edu-cation on offer. Those same capable leaders in a large school, with hundreds of staff to supervise and mentor, might not have the time to man-age the professional development of individual teachers quite so closely. At the same time, a principal in a smaller school will come to know their students and the issues confronting them in greater detail, which means that there may well be a wider raft of support and pastoral programs available, while you can feel assured that your child’s individual needs are being ad-equately catered for.

ChoiCesOne area where there is a clear advantage to choosing a larger institution is in the number of academic and extracurricular choices that are available to secondary school students. A wider range of course choices means that pupils have more opportunities to pursue areas of study in which they are especially capable or interested, while at the same time it means that they may also have the chance to try something new

and adventurous, be it an advanced design course, music tuition, advanced maths or a third language.

You and Your ChildWhile they are adjusting to a new and com-pletely different educational environment, some children may need additional guid-ance and support. In these cases the size of the school that you are considering might be especially important. It will be useful for you to consider how adaptable your child is, how easily they make friends, and how well they respond to changes in their routine or the things with which they are familiar. You can help a great deal in this regard by becoming in-volved in school life yourself. Get to know your child’s new classmates and their families; offer to come in to school to listen to pupils read; support the school’s sports teams; or volunteer to be your class or year group representative. These sorts of actions can help you to engage with and understand the school so that you are able to provide support should your child need it at this important time.

sMall versus big sChools

ABOVE: Pre Reception and Reception students are part of a half-day programme. at CDNIS

the reLationship betWeen sChooL siZe anD quaLity oF management is not oFten ConsiDereD by

parents, though it Can haVe a tremenDous eFFeCt

on the quaLity oF your ChiLD’s eDuCation

”


8988 PREPARATIONS PREPARATIONSEducationEducation

An important factor to consider when decid-ing what international school your child

will attend is the curriculum that is offered. The majority of international schools will generally offer either a British- or US-style curriculum (al-though there may well be other options avail-able). Of course, if your child has previously been enrolled in either of these systems, or it is your intention to return to your national sys-tem when you go back home, it makes a good deal of sense to continue down that same edu-cational path. However, if you are coming from another educational system, or want to explore some of the other options that might be avail-able, it will be useful to look at where the two systems are similar and where they differ.

The United States school curriculum is state-based, i.e. each state offers a curriculum that reflects its particular needs, history, demo-graphics, etc., although there will nevertheless be a good deal of uniformity across the states in core subject areas and disciplines. Most schools offering a British curriculum will follow what is known as the National Curriculum, which is taught in government-maintained schools nationwide (although not necessarily in inde-pendent schools).

What does this mean in an international set-ting? In American international schools, the

programs offered by individual schools may have greater variety, as each school is able to se-lect from best practice across the country, with regards to both curriculum style and subject ar-eas, in order to reflect the ethos and mission of their particular institution. At British interna-tional schools the overall curriculum structure and the subjects taught during the primary and early secondary years will be largely consistent (perhaps with some additions designed to en-able pupils to explore the culture and history of the host country), although there is a good deal of flexibility in subject choice for senior second-ary students.

American international schools receive accredi-tation from one of three main bodies: Western Association of Schools and Colleges (WASC); New England Association of Schools and Col-leges (NEASC); and Southern Association of Schools and Colleges (SACS). This process of ac-creditation ensures that American international schools have appropriate programs in place for student learning, have a clear purpose and phi-losophy, and have adequate and appropriate student evaluation and assessment procedures in place which enhance, support and develop its learning programs. This accreditation also means that a school’s program and the tran-scripts and records that it provides for its pu-pils will enable them to transfer successfully to other schools both in the US and beyond; these

The uK versus us CurriCuluM: MaKing an inforMed ChoiCe

BELOW: Woodworing class teaches valuable skills at Harbour school

records also serve as an important and recog-nized indicator of educational achievement that will facilitate pupils’ later entry into colleg-es and universities worldwide. Most American international schools will also offer Advanced Placement (AP) or Advanced Placement Interna-tional Diploma (APID) programs for senior high school students. These are recognized by more than 3,600 universities worldwide, including in over 55 countries outside the US.

The British National Curriculum is managed by the UK Department of Education. Government schools follow this curriculum and manage their own assessment and reporting through the primary and early secondary years. There are national examinations (for pupils in both gov-ernment and independent schools) at the end of Year 10 (GCSE) and Year 12 (A-Levels) which are marked and graded by one of a number of different external assessment boards. Students at British international schools at the end of Years 10 and 12 can sit international versions of the same examinations, which are marked and graded by a UK examination board. A-Levels are generally used as the benchmark for pupils entering British universities.

A significant number of British and US interna-tional schools, in addition to their own coun-try’s secondary or high school assessment and accreditation programs and examinations, will also offer the International Baccalaure-ate Diploma or Certificate. Schools that offer IB programs undergo a rigorous quality assur-ance and approval process and are inspected at

regular intervals to ensure that their standards remain high. The International Baccalaureate Diploma Program (IBDP) is a two-year program which provides graduates with a valuable, widely-accepted international qualification. The IBDP program is recognized by universities worldwide and is currently offered by almost 2500 leading global schools.

While there may therefore be some differ-ences in the structure of the two educational systems, it should be noted that both require their schools to be accredited and to have rig-orous standards regarding the overall quality, effectiveness and value of their educational programs. There may be some superficial dif-ferences (for instance, British international schools tend to opt for more formal school uni-forms than their US counterparts), but gener-ally speaking the international education that they provide has similar aims and purposes – to encourage in their pupils a love of learning, to prepare them for higher and tertiary education, and to encourage them to become successful and responsible global citizens.

Whether you opt for the British, the US or another curriculum, ultimately it will come down to the practicality and utility of the system a school employs, and of course your own affinity with a particular institution. It's a big decision; as always, the most useful advice is to visit the school and meet the staff and pupils, to see what works best for you and your child.

BELOW: Students are encouraged to apply that they learn to their daily lives at AISHK

http://www.aishk.edu.hk/



inTernaTional baCCalaureaTe diploMa prograMFirst offered in 1968 in Geneva, Switzerland, the International Baccalaureate Diploma Pro-gram is a two-year program which provides a broadly accepted international qualification for post-secondary education. The IBDP program is recognized by universities around the world and is currently offered by 2,179 schools and counting. The IBDP mission statement states: “Life in the 21st century, in an interconnected, globalized world, requires critical-thinking skills and a sense of international-mindedness, something that International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program students come to know and understand.”

Harvard University educational psychology professor Howard Gardner describes the IBDP as “less parochial than most American efforts”, by helping students “think critically, synthesize knowledge, reflect on their own thought pro-cesses and get their feet wet in interdisciplinary thinking”.

In the IBDP, students study six courses at higher level or standard level. Students must choose one subject from each of Groups 1 to 5, thus ensuring breadth of experience in languages, social studies, the experimental sciences and mathematics. The sixth subject may be an arts subject chosen from Group 6, or the student may choose another subject from Groups 1 to 5.

In addition, the program has three core requirements that are included to broaden the educational experience and challenge students to apply their knowledge and understanding:

• The Extended Essay is a requirement for stu-dents to engage in independent research through the in-depth study of a question relating to one of the subjects they are studying.

• Theory of Knowledge is a course designed to encourage each student to reflect on the nature of knowledge by critically examining different ways of knowing (perception, emo-tion, language and reason) and different kinds of knowledge (scientific, artistic, math-ematical and historical).

• Creativity, Action, Service requires that stu-dents actively learn from the experience of doing real tasks beyond the classroom. Stu-dents can combine all three components or do activities related to each one of them sep-arately. At international schools this element of the IBDP program provides students the unique opportunity to travel to sometimes exotic locations or interact with the local population in a way they may not have ex-perienced in their home country. The insight gained from these activities often stays with students long after they graduate.

sChooLs that oFFer ib programs must

unDergo a rigorous quaLity assuranCe approVaL proCess

aDministereD by the ib organiZation, anD are

re-inspeCteD at reguLar interVaLs to ensure

stanDarDs remain high

ABOVE LEFT: The Aquatic Centre at AISHK offers panoramic views from Kowloon Tong across to Hong Kong Island and is an all-weather venue which operates all year round

The International Baccalaureate (IB) was founded in Geneva in 1968 and currently

consists of three educational programs: the Primary Years Program, the Middle Years Program and the International Baccalaureate Diploma Program. The IB itself is a UNESCO non-governmental organization whose initial mandate was to “provide an internationally acceptable university admissions qualification suitable for the growing mobile population of young people whose parents are part of the world of diplomacy, international and multina-tional organizations”. Since its inception, the IB organization has evolved to include curricula for all year groups in primary and secondary education and is offered in English, Spanish and French. It is probably best understood through its mission statement:

“The International Baccalaureate aims to de-velop inquiring, knowledgeable and caring young people who help to create a better and more peaceful world through intercultural understanding and respect. To this end the organization works with schools, governments and international organizations to develop challenging programs of international educa-tion and rigorous assessment. These programs encourage students across the world to become active, compassionate and lifelong learners who understand that other people, with their differences, can also be right.”

Schools that offer any of the three IB programs must undergo a rigorous quality assurance ap-proval process administered by the IB organiza-tion, and are re-inspected at regular intervals to ensure standards remain consistently high and meet all requirements.

The priMarY Years prograMFirst established in 1997, the Primary Years Program (PYP) is for students aged 3-12 and “focuses on the development of the whole child as an inquirer, both in the classroom and the world outside”. The program “focuses on the total growth of the developing child, touch-ing hearts as well as minds and encompassing

social, physical, emotional and cultural needs in addition to academic development”.

This inquiry-based approach, rather than be-ing parochial in nature, encourages students to think about issues across a range of globally relevant topics such as:

• Who we are

• Where we are in place and time

• How we express ourselves

• How the world works

• How we organize ourselves

• Sharing the planet

Teachers then shape their curriculum based on these general topics so that, for example, a class may study the environment in general as a theme that incorporates all core subjects.

The Middle Years prograMStarted in 1994, the Middle Years Program is designed for students aged 11-16. According to the IB organization, the program is based on the belief that “Life in the 21st century places many changing demands on students making the transition through adolescence. They are at a crucial period of personal, social, physical and intellectual development, of uncertainty and of questioning. The International Baccalaureate (IB) Middle Years Program is designed to help them find a sense of belonging in the ever-changing and increasingly interrelated world around them and to foster a positive attitude to learning.

“The program consists of eight subject groups integrated through five areas of interaction that provide a framework for learning within and across the subjects. Students are required to study their mother tongue, a second lan-guage, humanities, sciences, mathematics, arts, physical education and technology. In the final year of the program, students also engage in a personal project, which allows them to dem-onstrate the understanding and skills they have developed throughout the program.”(www.ibo.org)

The inTernaTional baCCalaureaTe prograM

A HALLMARK OF THE IB IS ITS INQUIRY-

BASED APPROACH


pat essentials xe

94 PREPARATIONS Education Education

RighT: AISHK Green Roof space

Advanced Placement (AP) Courses are standardized college-level courses usually

available to secondary school students in insti-tutions which follow the American curriculum. These courses are generally recognized as be-ing equivalent to undergraduate courses and so participating colleges grant credit to students who score sufficiently well in their AP exams. Pupils often undertake AP courses in maths and English, although they can be taken in almost any subject.

AP test result scores range from 1 to 5 (5 be-ing the highest) and most tertiary institutions require a minimum score of 3 or 4 in a subject for a credit to be awarded.

For students planning to attend an American university, an AP course can save both time and money by enabling them to skip some introduc-tory college courses. AP course results are also used in the selection process for some highly selective colleges and universities in the United States, and so scoring well in AP courses can increase a student’s chances of acceptance into such institutions.

Students can take an AP course alongside other courses, if available.

advanCed plaCeMenT

igCse

a-levels

The International General Certificate of Secondary Education (IGCSE) is usu-

ally offered by schools that follow the National Curriculum of England and Wales (the British Curriculum). The IGCSE is an internationally rec-ognized and valued qualification that is an ex-cellent preparation for pupils who intend to go on to study for A-Levels or the IB (International Baccalaureate). Schools from around the world have contributed to the development of IGCSE programs and it is therefore a truly interna-tional qualification.

IGCSE courses are available in more than 120 countries and in over 70 subjects, with many being offered at both core and extended level, making them suitable for students of all abilities. Programs of study are updated regu-larly and are designed to be accessible for both

native English speakers and those whose first language is not English.

Examining bodies provide a large range of resources for students, both online and in print, and schools who offer IGCSEs use texts and study materials approved by the relevant examination boards. Individual schools are able to offer combinations of courses designed to fit their pupils’ needs (including over 30 language courses), each subject being examined sepa-rately. Grading is on an eight-point scale (A* to G) and there are clear standards of achievement for each grade.

The International Advanced Level General Certificate of Education (A-Level) is usually

offered by international schools following the British Curriculum, often as an alternative quali-fication for university entrance alongside the International Baccalaureate. A-Levels are the standard entry qualification for UK universities and are widely recognized worldwide.

The International A-Level program is extremely flexible and schools are generally able to offer a range of combinations of the 60 or so subjects available. This way, A-Levels allow pupils either to specialize in one particular curriculum area or to choose a broader program of study, de-pending on their strengths and interests.

International A-Levels have several assessment options. A pupil may opt to take examinations only at A-Level at the end of two years’ study. Alternatively, they can choose a ‘staged’ assess-ment path by taking an AS-Level examination at the end of their first year of study, followed by an A-Level examination at the end of their second year (although this option is not avail-able for all subjects). Thirdly, a student can decide to take an AS-Level examination only (AS-Level syllabus content is half that of an International A-Level program).

Like the IGCSE program, International AS- and A-Level syllabuses are designed specifically for an international students. Each subject is examined separately and grades range from A* to E.

The green Roof at aiSHK is a living, breathing space with australian features and flora, allowing students to understand environmental issues, environmental technology and sustainable development


pat essentials xe

96 PREPARATIONS Education

Now that you’ve looked at some of the many issues connected to choosing your

child’s education, it’s time to begin the selection process. Given the wide array of choices avail-able, it might be helpful to employ a process of elimination. Make a list of your top three pri-orities – the deal breakers – such as curriculum, fees or year groups offered, and make an initial run through our listings to begin eliminating schools from your list. Expand your list of pri-orities to six and begin your research into the schools by visiting their websites. Make notes on each school and when you’re finished, go through the list of schools again and reorgan-ize them into a ranked list, from most to fewest matches.

Take your top five (if you have five left) from your list and dig deeper into each of the schools by visiting parent forums on popular Hong Kong expat websites. If you have specific questions about a school on your list, post a question and take account of the feedback.

Be aware, however, that respondents may not always be trustworthy; they may be advocates or employees of the school you’re inquiring about or its competitors. That being said, these forums can be a valuable source of intelligence about schools.

If you want to eliminate any further schools from your list, do so at this time and then make a formal inquiry to the admissions offices of the schools remaining. It is at this point that you will be able find out which schools have places available, and those that have waiting lists, in your child’s year group. In this case, prepare to eliminate more schools from your list and perhaps to resurrect some of the schools that didn’t make it into your top five. As a general rule, you should try to visit at least three schools before making your choice; in addition, once you have made a decision and decided on a school you should plan a further visit before you accept the offer of a place and put down your deposit.

The seleCTion proCess

BELOW: Students participate in an array of extra curricular activities at CDNIS.

http://www.delia.edu.hk

pat essentials xe

99PREPARATIONS

The visiTYour visit to the school will probably be the final and most important part of your decision-making process. It’s during the visit that you’ll get a feel for what the school is really like. Despite your research, despite how widely you consult, despite how diligent you may have been, your final choice of a school may come down to instinct, a gut feeling that this is the right place for you and your family. It could be a simple as that!

At some stage during the admissions process you should get the chance to meet with the principal or headteacher, and this will be a valu-able experience for you both. Again, you will want to feel comfortable and confident in this person, because ultimately they are responsible for how well your child is educated. Therefore, you can’t be too prepared for such a meeting and so the questions below may serve as a use-ful starting point for your discussions. However, it is of course also important to consider your child’s specific needs and refine and expand this list. Don’t be afraid to ask tough questions, as the answers to those questions will tell you the most about the school.

soMe quesTions for sChools

• What is the school’s academic program (IB, A-Level, Advanced Placement etc)?

• How will the school cater to your child’s individual needs?

• How can parents get involved in the life of the school?

• What are the respective sizes of your child’s class, year group, stage (early years, primary or secondary) and the school overall? How might this fit with your child’s development and needs?

• How convenient is the location of the school in relation to home and work, and how much time would be spent commuting each day?

• What post-secondary institutions have alumni attended? What percentage of students proceed to post-secondary education?

• By which educational and/or government bodies is the school accredited?

• Does the school offer a wide and engaging variety of learning experiences both inside and outside the classroom, including extracurricular activities, community service and sports?

• Is the environment of the school one which will enable your child to thrive?

• Are there scholarships available for deserving or talented pupils?

• How ethnically, socially and culturally diverse is the student body?

• What is the school’s philosophy and mission statement?

• What qualifications or awards are available for secondary students?

ABOVE: Student in ICT class at Delia School of Canada

Education

http://www.cdnis.edu.hk



teacher have previous experience in that school’s particular curriculum? Are they expe-rienced international teachers or is this their first posting abroad? Have they gained their qualifications from a reputable institution? For everyone, the significance of these questions will vary, but the crucial thing is that the school gives you as much information as they can so that you can feel informed.

Before leaving the website, it will also be useful to have a look at the school calendar. How do the term dates fit in with your arrangements? Will the timing of the school day work for you? When are parent-teacher evenings scheduled? This sort of routine administrative information is actually quite important – a school is ruled by its timetable and its calendar, and if its dates and times don’t work for you, then it might be that nothing else will either.

However, no matter how exciting the website, how glamorous the prospectus, how stunning the photography, there’s no substitute for a school visit. So once you’ve chosen some poten-tial establishments, it’s time to get in touch and arrange to go and see them.

It may be that a relocation agent is organizing your school visits for you. If this is the case, there are several important points that you should check with them beforehand: 1. Ensure that they have confirmed the visit with the school and that you are expected; 2. Ensure that they know exactly where the school is so that you can be sure of reaching your appointment on time; 3. Ensure that they have organized your schedule so that you have sufficient time at each school you visit (i.e. they haven’t booked you in to see five schools in a single day); 4. Ensure that they have organized the visit for a date and time that will enable you if at all pos-sible to meet a member of the school leadership team. I consider these to be absolutely essential parts of any school visit, so do make sure that you have asked for these conditions to be met.

TOP RighT: Delia School of Canada strudents on a field tripCENTER RighT: Harbour School students learn 21st century skills RighT: Competitive sports teams compete regionally and locally at AISHK

As a former principal of an international school, I understand better than most that for many new or potential expatriate parents choosing

aschoolwhentheymoveabroadappearsatfirstglancetobeyetanotherbewildering layer of mystery and a further cause for stress and worry. How-ever, even if you haven’t been a part of the international scene before, the processisnotasdauntingasitmayatfirstappear.ThebestadvicethatIcangive you is to take your time, do your research and know what you want – then you won’t go far wrong.

Not all that glitters is gold

By Mark AngusFormer PrincipalThe British International School

International schools almost all have very in-formative and attractive websites that make an excellent starting point for your enquiries. Because a school’s website is usually a prospec-tive parent’s first point of contact, international schools generally put a great deal of time and effort into their sites and are very good at cap-turing the essence of their institutions in these pages.

Your first stop on any school website should be the curriculum pages. This is important because if you live in the UK, for example, and you in-tend your children to go back to a UK school when your posting is over, there really isn’t much point in sending your children to an inter-national school with a US curriculum. The same applies the other way round. Alternatively, you may be uncertain about where you and your family might ultimately end up, and so conclude that the International Baccalaureate system might be a good fit. In any case, you should be able to find a school that offers the sort of curriculum that’s right for you and your children in any city with a sizable expatriate population.

The next page you should turn to should be the staff page. A reputable international school will publish profiles of all of its staff that should provide you with information about their coun-try of origin, academic qualifications, teaching experience (including the names and locations of schools they have taught at previously) and hopefully some sense of their interests, hobbies and passions. Ideally, they should also include a photograph of the teacher.

Why is this important? As with everything in this process, it’s so that you can make a fully informed choice. Does your child’s potential

the best aDViCe that i Can giVe you is to taKe your time, Do your researCh

anD KnoW What you Want – then you Won’t

go Far Wrong

”

cHoosing tHe rigHt scHool

pat essentials xe


If you’re arranging your visit yourself, there are also a couple of points to remember. Dealing with a potential new school, whether from inside or outside the country, should be fairly straightforward, as it’s most likely that you’ll be dealing with an admissions officer, and in most international schools members of the admis-sions team are informative, friendly and helpful and know as much about how their school runs as anyone. If you’re dealing with the admissions office directly, again make sure that you’ve al-lowed yourself enough time for a substantial visit (generally speaking, schools won’t rush you and you’ll be free to take as long over your visit as you require), and do try to organize your visit for a day when you can be sure of speaking with a member of the senior leadership team – ideally the Principal, but if this is not possible a Deputy Principal or a Head of School should be able to answer your questions.

So, everything is all set. The visit has been ar-ranged, you’re booked in to see the Principal. What questions should you ask?

After my many conversations with prospective parents over the years, I think the one ques-tion, above all, that you should ask yourself about a school is: Would my child be happy here? It sounds obvious, but you really would be surprised at how low on some parents’ list of priorities this question can sometimes be. It’s easy instead to be seduced by amazing facilities (which most international schools have) or stun-ningly good exam results (ditto), but not every school is suitable for every child. If your daugh-ter loves sport, it would be silly to choose an inner-city campus with no space to run; there’s no point choosing a school on the basis of its stunning 600-seat theater if your son has no interest in drama. It’s a poor choice to opt for an academic hotbed if your child doesn’t thrive in competitive exams. Therefore, be honest and open in your appraisal of your children and, most importantly, look at this as an outstanding

opportunity for them – whatever their special interests, skills or subject areas, you will almost certainly be able to find an international school that will allow them to explore their potential to the full.

Therefore, go armed with a list of questions about things that really matter to you – ask what you want to ask, not what you think you should ask. No matter how trivial, off-beat or demanding the question, a good school leader has probably heard it before and, what’s more, if they know their school well they’ll have an answer for it too. I’ve known parents for whom the most important element of a school was the quality of its salad bar; another one once grilled me for half an hour on how the school burglar alarm operated; I remember once being ques-tioned very intently on why my school did not offer tuba lessons. But these are not irrelevant questions – these parents knew their children and knew what they wanted. In these cases, I was content that they were going home satis-fied that they had found out as much about my school as they could.

And when trying to choose an international school for your children, that should be your aim too.

no matter hoW eXCiting the Website, hoW gLamorous the

broChure, hoW stunning the photography, there’s

no substitute For a sChooL Visit

”

Mark Angus read English and Drama at Flinders University, Adelaide, where he specialized in Elizabethan and Jacobean theater. He also has an MA

in Early Modern Studies from King’s College, University of London, where his main focus of study was the repertories of 16th- and 17th-century playing companies. He gained his PGCE in Secondary English from the Open University and was previously the Academic Deputy Head at Westminster Cathedral Choir School in central London. He was at The British International School Shanghai from 2007 to 2011, becoming Principal of the Nanxiang Campus in 2009. The a

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or

THS TRAVIS AD (196 X 136)_OP.indd 1 8/9/14 2:39 PM



(cognitive ability test); educational psycholo-gist reports; speech or occupational therapy reports; reading age scores. These and similar documents will always be useful, as they help us to make sure we are setting the right targets for new pupils and challenging them appropri-ately right from the beginning.

However, other seemingly less significant material is also of use to us. Small academic prizes might not in themselves demonstrate the direction of a pupil’s future career, but they nevertheless help a new school build up a more complete picture of that pupil as quickly as possible. Therefore, don’t underestimate the value of that Year 3 award for spelling, or that teacher’s commendation for a project, or that prize for memorizing times tables – they all help us to understand your child’s overall ap-proach to school, the pride they take in their work and their ability to do well under pressure or under test conditions. Knowing this informa-tion can sometimes save us a lot of time in get-ting to know just where your child’s particular strengths are.

CoMMuniTY involveMenTAll schools, and international schools in par-ticular, place a good deal of emphasis on helping pupils to understand the importance

of engaging with the community, learning about social responsibility and tackling difficult questions about how the wider world works. Therefore, it is extremely helpful to know the level to which pupils have previously been en-gaged in addressing these and other related issues.

For older students, we value very highly pu-pils who have taken part in the International Award (called the Duke of Edinburgh Award in the UK), as it means that they are already

internationaL sChooLs pLaCe a gooD DeaL oF emphasis on heLping

pupiLs to unDerstanD the importanCe oF engaging

With the Community, Learning about soCiaL

responsibiLity anD taCKLing DiFFiCuLt questions about

hoW the WiDer WorLD WorKs ”

Schools also want joining a new learning envi-ronment to be a positive experience for all con-cerned. They want to get to know you and your child, to welcome you into the community and to be able to get on with the business of help-ing pupils to learn as soon as they can. So while different schools in different countries with different systems might all have their own reg-istration, enrollment and induction procedures, each with their own particular idiosyncrasies, there is nevertheless one constant, one thing that any school wants about their new starters, wherever in the world that school is – everyone wants information.

Therefore, you can really help your new school simply by giving them as much information about your child as you possibly can. You might think that schools are only interested in dry, academic documentation. Of course this is im-portant, but schools are about so much more than this and, as a consequence, they value and appreciate information from as wide a variety of sources as possible. It might seem ir-relevant, unimportant or even silly, but you’d be surprised at what schools can make out of seemingly unpromising material.

WhAT DO SChOOLS WANT TO kNOW?aCadeMiCSchool reports vary markedly around the world, depending on factors such as whether the school is in the independent or maintained sec-tor, the style of curriculum and assessment, the frequency of the reports and a host of other things besides. It may be that the school reports you have are familiar to us, or they may repre-sent a new variation on a theme that we have not encountered before. Don’t worry – what-ever the format, a school report will always pro-vide us with useful information and therefore you should provide your new school with all the reports you have, not only the most recent ones. A range of reports over a number of years allows a school to see the ways in which a pupil has developed and gives them some idea as to what might be to come.

Your previous schools may also have provided you with other documentation, and it’s useful for us to see that too. These documents might include: standardized test scores; CAT scores

Everyone wants the business of starting in a new school to be as smooth, quick and painless as possible, especially if it’s also in a new country.

Pupils want to meet their new classmates and teachers and make friends as soon as they can, while parents want to feel reassured that they have made therightdecisionandthattheirchildwillbehappyandflourishintheirnewenvironment, so they can stop worrying!

RighT:HKA maintains a dynamic environment that encourages inquiry-based learning

deliVering tHe goodsGive your new school all the information they can handle

By Mark AngusFormer PrincipalThe British International School



about their favorite sport and discuss their achievements as maturely as possible.

However, people don’t have to be an expert or a champion, or even especially skilled, to enjoy sport; it doesn’t matter at which level your child has competed or if they have ever been a gold medalist; the very fact that they enjoy and take part in a sport will be important to their new school, and so they should feel comfortable discussing what it is that they like about their sport, and why.

exTraCurriCular aCTiviTiesThere are as many extracurricular activities to potentially talk about as there are pupils in the world, so no matter what your child’s into, tell us about it! There are formal activities from which you may have supporting, documen-tary material (it’s helpful to collate this and be prepared to present it during an interview or meeting), or there are smaller-scale activi-ties organized on a much more casual basis. In either case, it’s really helpful if your child feels secure and confident enough to be able to talk about them with us.

They may be a musician who has completed grade examinations (the universal standard for describing competence and confidence on an instrument); they can show us the pieces of music they’re working on now to give us a good understanding of their level so we can match them up with the right teachers and fellow musicians. They may have been in an orchestra or ensemble at their old school, in which case it is really useful if they can talk about the pieces they played and their composers, as well as de-scribe their role in the group. Or perhaps they were in a band – again, it helps if they’re able to talk about the type of music they play, and discuss their influences and the other sorts of music that they like.

There are so many other fascinating things out there that people are interested in, and

likewise so many fascinating things that we are interested in hearing your child talk about. Maybe they can speak other languages. Are into mountain climbing. Have an unusual pet. Have traveled to exotic locations. Have met someone famous. Collect antique coins. Like going to the theater. Spent some time in hospital. Are part of a large family. Anything! Whatever it is, we think hearing them talk about it will help us to understand the sort of person and pupil they’re going to be.

Therefore, perhaps the most important thing when your child meets people at their new school is that they know how to talk about what interests them. Can they explain when they first became interested in mountain climb-ing? What is the most valuable coin in their collection? Why do they like to travel? What is the play they have most enjoyed? Their aim should be to share with us their knowledge, understanding and passion for their hobbies and interests, so that we get a good idea of what makes them tick. It is this understanding that will help teachers involve your child in the activities they love where they will meet others with the same interests.

nexT sTepsIn the end, you really can’t be too prepared when your child is applying to a new school:

• Get as many documents together as you can, even if they seem unimportant or trivial.

• Get your child ready to show off their sporting medals and ribbons.

• Think about the way in which your child presents him- or herself, and make sure that they’re confident talking about and answering questions about their interests.

Doing all of this will help the school to get to know your child as quickly as they can, and then everyone – him or her included – can get straight down to the serious business of really enjoying the new school.

Mark Angus read English and Drama at Flinders University, Adelaide, where he specialized in Elizabethan and Jacobean theater. He also has an MA

in Early Modern Studies from King’s College, University of London, where his main focus of study was the repertories of 16th- and 17th-century playing companies. He gained his PGCE in Secondary English from the Open University and was previously the Academic Deputy Head at Westminster Cathedral Choir School in central London. He was at The British International School Shanghai from 2007 to 2011, becoming Principal of the Nanxiang Campus in 2009. Th

e a

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or

well on the way to having an understanding of the importance of civic responsibility. Likewise, pupils who have previously been involved in Model United Nations will possess a degree of political and social understanding that sets them apart from their peers. Therefore, this is information that your new school will definitely want to know about and will be useful in estab-lishing the right expectations from the outset.

In the case of younger pupils, involvement in organizations such as Boy Scouts or Cubs, Girl Guides or Brownies, army, navy or air force cadets, European Youth Forum, Rotary International, Junior Chamber International, Raleigh International or any similar organiza-tion is also valued highly. If your child has been involved in a group or organization of this nature, your new school will undoubtedly want to hear about it. It is also useful if your child can speak enthusiastically about their involve-ment and what they think they learned from the experience.

However, it isn’t always necessary to have a certificate or badge to demonstrate the level of engagement. If your child has been involved

in any sort of charity or community project, whether at their previous school or through an outside agency, encourage them to talk about it and describe the sort of work they did and what they felt the benefits were – this is the sort of conversation that principals love to have with prospective pupils and families, and that will really help your new school welcome you into its community.

sporTsA lot of the school sport in Hong Kong interna-tional schools is of an extremely high standard and very competitive, and so principals are always keen to hear about new pupils’ sport-ing skills and exploits. Therefore, this is an area where it’s useful to provide as much documen-tation and physical evidence as you can.

If your child has earned medals, certificates, rib-bons or badges for any sort of sporting event then it’s always a good idea to bring them along to an interview or meeting. Have they set a school or district record? Been involved in a championship winning team? Won a gold medal? Been selected to represent their county, state or country? Achievements like these are things to be proud of and shared, and you should encourage your child to talk confidently

BELOW: CDNIS students go on to attend universities around the world

pat essentials xe


universiTies in hong Kong

Whether it’s testimony to the British influence on education or a result of the

traditional Chinese veneration for learning, the excellent education system in Hong Kong definitely includes third-level institutions. Academic independence is prized and standards are extremely high. Students come from around the world to take advantage of an affordable education in a city with a high standard of living. Logically enough, business courses and master’s programs are particularly highly rated, but medicine, law, computer science and communication are also considered attractive options, and bright people can find a course that will prove valuable in any discipline you could name.

There are eight main universities in Hong Kong, all government-funded. Private colleges (termed “self-funded post-secondary colleges”) also exist, and the Open University of Hong Kong provides excellent distance learning, but for foreigners interested in studying or having their children continue their education here, the big eight are what you’ll be looking at. For budding stars, there’s also the Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts.

The big advantage for foreigners based in the city is that the medium of instruction for the great majority of classes is English. Standards are good too – the oldest, the University of Hong Kong (established in 1911), is by some ratings the best in Asia; and when it’s ranked second, it’s usually to the Hong Kong University of Science and Technology. There are thriving exchange programs with the mainland, so that at any moment there are thousands of mainland students here, and foreign and Hong Kong students alike can choose to spend a term or two somewhere like Beijing or Shanghai, depending on what arrangements their university has.

Fees vary, but generally you’re looking at HKD90,000-120,000 per academic year for anybody who doesn’t hold a Hong Kong

Identity Card and therefore needs a student visa to study. It’s considerably cheaper – a half to a third of the price – for people who do have a HKID. Again, this makes a Hong Kong third-level education attractive for long-term residents, or at least those who expect to still be working in Hong Kong during their or their children’s period of study.

Like the city itself, a university education in Hong Kong, especially in the more prestigious universities, can be an extremely international affair. Of course, the majority of students will be locals, but classes in English and the high quality of the education make the idea appealing to smart people looking to make a move to Asia and perhaps find a cheaper education than in their home country. Most people who get accepted into a full-time university course will find getting a student visa straightforward and relatively hassle-free.

Unsurprisingly, the British education system originally served as the model for Hong Kong universities, with a clear distinction between undergraduate, masters and doctorate studies. However, traditional three-year undergraduate courses have now generally been replaced by four-year courses and tend to follow a two-semester system rather than three terms.

NEXT PAgE: Hong Kong Polytechnic University

Mainland sTudenTs in hong Kong

In 1998, Hong Kong started admitting mainland students and very quickly found itself in the enviable position of attracting the cream of the crop. In the 2010-11 academic year, about 1,400 were admitted. The University of Hong Kong alone got over ten thousand applicants, with fewer than 300 (less than 3 percent) making the cut. The students who get in are often those with the highest gaokao (university entrance exam) score in their whole province or region – they may be literally one in a million. While mainland universities are improving and the best are nothing to sneer at, they simply can’t compete with the facilities, academic independence and international flavor of the best of Hong Kong.

pat essentials xe


Chinese universiTY of hong KongMa Liu Shui, Sha Tin, New Territories

(852) 3943 [email protected]

With Nobel laureates, Fields Medal and Turing Award winners on its faculty, this is an elite institution which is officially trilingual (English, Cantonese, Mandarin). 14,500 students.

hong Kong bapTisT universiTYKowloon Tong


Relatively small university with a Christian ethos. 7,500 students.

CiTY universiTY of hong KongTat Chee Avenue, Kowloon

(852) 3442 7654www.cityu.edu.hk

A research university founded in 1984 which has quickly built up an excellent reputation. 18,000 students.

lingnan universiTYTuen Mun, New Territories


A tiny liberal arts university that aims to combine the best of East and West. 2,300 students.

universiTY of hong KongPok Fu Lam, Mid-Levels

(852) 2859 [email protected])

Hong Kong’s oldest (1911) and best-known university, generally considered the best in the city and possibly Asia. 21,500 students.

hong Kong universiTY of sCienCe and TeChnologY

Clear Water Bay, New Territories (852) 2623 [email protected]

Vies with UHK for number one in Asia, with an excellent MBA program and School of Engineering. 9,000 students.

hong Kong polYTeChniC universiTYHung Hom, Kowloon


Strong (and in some cases the only place offering them in Hong Kong) in fields as varied as design, fashion, logistics and physiotherapy. 28,000 students.

hong Kong insTiTuTe of eduCaTionTai Po, New Territories


A specialized teacher training university. 7,000 students.

The Duke MBA—Global Executive program—where you join a diverse network of senior executives and get the tools to quickly impact your business.

• Study at a top US. Business school with #1 ranked faculty*

• Experience global business first-hand• Develop advanced analytical, strategic and

leadership skills

*According to the most recent rankings from Bloomberg Businessweek.

BUSINESS HAPPENS HERE.

Program Information

Study Locations: • Dubai • Singapore• London • St. Petersburg• New Delhi • Durham, NC, USA• Shanghai/Kunshan

Average Age: 39

Average Years Work Experience: 14

Non-US Citizenship: 59 percent

Advance your career opportunities. Learn more at: www.fuqua.duke.edu/global-china

41696-Global Exec Roundtable Ad FINAL.indd 1 11/14/2011 10:15:50 AM

mailto:[email protected]

http://www.hku.hk





inTernaTional sChools

ausTralian inTernaTional sChool hong Kong (1995)

Australia, IB IB, HSC Ages 3-18 (1111)HKD67,900 - 146,0003A Norfolk Road, Kowloon

2, p. 137 (D1)(852) 2304 [email protected]

aMeriCan inTernaTional sChool (1986)

US SAT, AP Ages 3-18 (700)HKD58,000 - 108,200125 Waterloo Road, Kowloon Tong,

Kowloon 1, p. 137 (D1)(852) 2336 [email protected]

beaCon hill sChool (1967) esfPYP Ages 5-11 (540)HKD63,00023 Ede Road, Kowloon Tong, Kowloon


delia sChool of Canada (1987)Canada OSSD Ages 5-18 (1100)HKD82,000 - 99,000Tai Fung Avenue, Tai Koo Shing 12, p.137 (D2)


Canadian inTernaTional sChool (1990)Canada, IB, PYP, MYP OSSD, IB Ages 3-18 (1704)HKD76,300 - 126,60036 Nam Long Shan Road, Aberdeen 5, p. 137 (C3)


bradburY sChool (1980) esfPYP Ages 5-11 (720)HKD63,00043 Stubbs Road, Happy Valley, Wan Chai


CarMel sChool (1991)US Ages 3-15 (270)HKD51,150 - 130,07010 Borrett Road, Mid-Levels

6, p. 137 (C3)(852) 2964 [email protected]

Chinese inTernaTional sChool (1983)International, IB, MYP SAT, IB Ages 4-18 (1417)HKD103,300 - 164,0001 Hau Yuen Path, Braemar Hill 7, p. 137 (D2)


ChrisTian allianCe inTernaTional sChool (1992)

Canada Alberta Diploma Ages 5-18 (500)HKD71,200 - 113,1002 Fu Ning Street, Kowloon City


ClearwaTer baY sChool (1972) esfPYP Ages 5-11 (720)HKD63,000Lot 235, DD229, Clear Water Bay Road,

Kowloon 9, p. 137 (E1)(852) 2358 [email protected]

ConCordia inTernaTional sChool (1997)

US SAT, TOEFL Ages 12-18 (110)HKD93,500 - 98,20068 Begonia Road, Yau Yat Chuen, Sham

Shui Po 10, p. 137 (D1)(852) 2789 [email protected]

CreaTive seCondarY sChool (2006)IB, MYP IB, HKDAges 11-18 (730)HKD54,500 - 81,9003 Pung Loi Road, Tseung Kwan O, Sai

Kung 11, p. 137 (E2)(852) 2336 [email protected]

Following our listings there is a map of Hong Kong on which are placed map markers corresponding to each school. This should help you get an overall impression of

where the schools are located with respect to each other and areas in which you are considering settling.

If you don’t already know your budget for tuition, find out. International schools in Hong Kong are expensive by most standards

and thus price is a determining factor for many parents. Some schools do offer scholarships but they are limited.

Some schools in Hong Kong have more than one campus, each of which is identifiable by

this icon. We also note clearly the area of the city each campus of the school is located in, which will help determine travel times from home to school, which is obviously important to most parents.

Individual school enrollments fluctuate regularly based on Hong Kong’s expatriate population, expat

packages and the perceived quality of the school (which can change over time). Rather than try to be specific, we have provided a number that is generally indicative of the size of the school.

Options for curriculum include US (United States). UK (United Kingdom), IB (International

Baccalaureate), MYP (IB Middle Years Program), PYP (IB Primary Years Program), Japanese, German, French and Singapore.

Our education listings are designed to help you identify potentially suitable schools

across a range of concerns you may have with regard to your child’s education. As we have suggested, it is useful to narrow your search through a process of elimination. We added icons to help you scan our listings quickly and eliminate a number of schools based on, for instance, curriculum if you are looking for something specific.

We chose not to include editorial descriptions of each school for the simple reason that our opinions, while they may be informed, are still opinions and shouldn’t factor into your deci-sion. Nor did we choose to include descriptions provided by the schools, as they don’t tend to be very helpful in describing what a school is ac-tually like and are often quite similar in nature.

CurriCuluM

universiTY qualifiCaTion

TuiTion range

Map poinTsTudenT enrollMenT

sChool address

Options for university qualification include IB (International Baccalaureate Diploma), AP (US

Advanced Placement), IGCSE (UK International General Certificate of Education), A-Level (UK Advanced Level General Certificate of Education), Abitur (German university qualification exam), Bac (French secondary school diploma)

ediTor’s noTe

At this point I feel the need to emphasize that all the information provided in expat essentials is unbiased and objective. It is our mission to be the most trusted source of information and advice available to in-dividuals and families relocating to Hong Kong.

That said, advertising is how we survive. It may occur to some readers that there seems to be a correlation between ad-vertisers and the images we used in this section. This, in fact, is true. We did not, however, choose to do so without our prin-ciples in mind and thus are taking the time now to inform you of the service we pro-vide our educational partners.

eduCaTion lisTings

pat essentials xe

115PREPARATIONS

pat essentials xe

114 PREPARATIONS Education EducationEducation

inTernaTional ChrisTian sChool (1992)

US SAT, AP Ages 4-18 (1,020)HKD 90,200 - 122,6001 On Muk Lane, Shek Mun, Sha Tin


The harbour sChool (2006)International Ages 3-12 (117) HKD128,75023 Belcher’s Street, 2/F, Kennedy Town

Centre, Kennedy Town 18, p. 136 (C2)(852) 2816 [email protected]

disCoverY baY inTernaTional sChool (1984)

UK Ages 5-11 (800)HKD61,000 - 110,000Discovery Bay, Lantau Island 13, p. 136 (A2)(852) 2987 [email protected]

disCoverY College (2007) esfIB, PYP, MYP IB Ages 5-18 (940)HKD77,300 - 103,00038 Siena Avenue, Discovery Bay, Lantau

Island 14, p. 136 (A2)(852) 3969 [email protected]

frenCh inTernaTional sChool (1964)IB, UK IB, IGCSE Ages 4-18 (1800)HKD81,870 - 131,890165 Blue Pool Road, Happy Valley, Wan

Chai 15, p. 137 (D3)(852) 2577 [email protected]

gerMan swiss inTernaTional sChool (1969)

UK, Germany IGCSE, AS, A-level, Abitur Ages 4-18 (1200)

HKD100,410 - 138,61011 Guildford Road, The Peak


glenealY sChool (1959) esfPYP Ages 5-11 (360) HKD63,0007 Hornsey Road, Mid-Levels


harrow inTernaTional sChool (boarding)(2012)

UK IGCSE, A-level Ages 1-18HKD106,600 - 145,00038 Tsing Ying Road, Tuen Mun, New

Territories 19, p. 136 (A1)(852) 2824 [email protected]

hong Kong aCadeMY (2000)PYP, MYP, IB IB Ages 4-17 (600)HKD90,600 - 148,90033 Wai Man Road, Sai Kung, New

Territories 20, p. 137 (D3)(852) 2655 [email protected]

hong Kong advenTisT College english seCondarY seCTion (2007)

HK, US Ages 12-18 (40) HKD34,0001111 Clear Water Bay Road, Sai Kung,

New Territories 21, p. 137 (E2)(852) 2623 [email protected]

hong Kong inTernaTional sChool (1966)

US SAT, AP Ages 4-18 (2600)HKD71,400 - 195,5001 Red Hill Road, Tai Tam 22, p. 137 (D3)


hong loK Yuen inTernaTional sChool (1983)

UK, PYP Ages 3-14 HKD 50,700 - 88,160No 3, 20th Street, Hong Lok Yuen, Tai Po,

New Territories 23, p. 137 (D1)(852) 2658 [email protected]

Korean inTernaTional sChool english seCTion (1994)

UK A-levels, IGCSE Ages 3-18 (560)HKD52,800 - 89,50055 Lei King Road, Sai Wan Ho


inTernaTional College hong Kong (2009)

UK GCSE, IGCSE Ages 11-18 (120)HKD116,000 - 121,00060 Sha Tau Kok Road, Sha Tau Kok, New


isf aCadeMY (2003)IB, PYP IB Ages 6-18 (1600) HKD126,750 - 160,0001 Kong Sin Wan Road, Pok Fu Lam 26, p. 136 (C3)


island sChool (1967) esfUK, IB IGCSE, IB Ages 14-18 (1170)HKD95,100 - 97,10020 Borrett Road, Mid-Levels


Japanese inTernaTional sChool (1997)

Japanese, PYP Ages 4-11 (144) HKD78,0004663 Tai Po Road, Tai Po, New Territories


KelleTT sChool (1976)UK IGCSE, A-level Ages 3-18 (600)HKD110,900 - 144,500Primary: 2 Wah Lok Path, Wah Fu, Pok Fu

Lam 29, p. 136 (C3)(852) 2551 8234

Secondary: 460 Shau Kei Wan Road, Shau Kei Wan 29, p. 137 (C3)


KennedY sChool (1961) esfUK, PYP Ages 5-11 (900)HKD63,00019 Sha Wan Drive, Pok Fu Lam, Southern


King george v sChool (1894) esfUK, IB IGCSE, IB Ages 12-18 (1700)HKD95,100 - 97,1002 Tin Kwong Road, Ho Man Tin, Kowloon


KingsTon inTernaTional sChool (1996)

PYP Ages 6-12 (300)HKD82,280 - 95,000113 Waterloo Road, Kowloon Tong


Kowloon Junior sChool (1902) esfPYP Ages 6-12 (900)HKD 63,00020 Perth Street, Ho Man Tin, Kowloon


lanTau inTernaTional sChool (1991)UK Ages 4-12 HKD57,000Lower Primary: House 113, Tong Fuk

Village, Tong Fuk 35, p. 136 (A3)Upper Primary: House 19, Lo Wai Village,

Pui O 36, p. 136 (A3)(852) 2984 [email protected]

li po Chun uniTed world College (1992)

IB IB Ages 16-19 (256)HKD206,000 (including boarding)10 Lok Wo Sha Lane, Sai Sha Road, Sha

Tin 37, p. 137 (D1)(852) 2640 [email protected]


117116 Finding housingPREPARATIONS PREPARATIONSEducation

norwegian inTernaTional sChool (1994)

IPC Ages 6-12 (150)HKD45,150 - 77,450170 Kam Shan Road, Kam Shan Village,

Tai Po 38, p. 137 (D1)(852) 2658 [email protected]

The peaK sChool (1911) esfPYP Ages 6-12 (360) HKD63,00020 Plunkett’s Road, The Peak


quarrY baY sChool (1924) esfPYP Ages 5-11 (720)HKD 63,0006 Hau Yuen Path, Braemar Hill, North


renaissanCe College (2006) esfPYP, MYP, IB IB Ages 5-18 (1880)HKD 95,100 - 97,1005 Hang Ming Street, Ma On Shan, Sha Tin


sha Tin College (1982) esfUK, IB IGCSE, IB Ages 12-18 (1100)HKD 95,100 - 97,1003 Lai Wo Lane, Sha Tin, New Territories

42, p. 137 (D1)(852) 2699 1811www.Sha Tincollege.edu.hkinfo@Sha Tincollege.edu.hk

sha Tin Junior sChool (1988) esfPYP Ages 5-11 (880) HKD 63,0003A Lai Wo Lane, Fo Shan, Sha Tin, New


singapore inTernaTional sChool (1991)

Singapore, UK, IB IGCSE, IB

souTh island sChool (1977) esfUK, IB IGCSE, BTEC, IB Ages 11-18 (1400)HKD 95,100 - 97,100 50 Nam Fung Road, Aberdeen


ThinK inTernaTional sChool (2003)PYP Ages 2-12 (300) HKD 40,000 - 76,000117 Boundary Street, Kowloon Tong,

Kowloon 46, p. 137 (D1)(852) 2338 [email protected]

wesT island sChool (1981) esfUK, IB IGCSE, IB, BTEC Ages 11-18 (1200)HKD 95,100 - 97,100 250 Victoria Road, Pok Fu Lam 47, p. 136 (C3)


YMCa ChrisTian College (2003)UK IGCSE, A-levels Ages 12-18 (998) HKD 28,000 - 46,0002 Chung Yat Street, Tung Chung, Lantau

Island 48, p. 136 (A2)(852) 2988 [email protected]

Yew Chung inTernaTional sChool (1932)

UK, IB IGCSE, IB Ages 1-19HKD 66,000 - 137,9003 To Fuk Road, Kowloon Tong


Ages 5-18 (1200)HKD 75,000 - 130,00023 Nam Long Shan Road, Aberdeen 44, p. 137 (C3)



pat essentials xe

nurserY and pre-sChools(852) 2914 [email protected]

allison’s leTTerland Child Care CenTre & babY buddies

Flat C, 2/F, Marco Polo Mansions, 10 Cleveland Street, Causeway Bay


anfield inTernaTional KindergarTen and nurserY

5 Cumberland Road, Kowloon Tong, Kowloon 2, p. 139 (D1)


box hill (hK) inTernaTional KindergarTens and pre-sChools

G/F, Tower 10, Phase One, Vista Paradise, 2 Hang Ming Street, Ma On Shan, New Territories 3, p. 139 (D1)


Shop K01, Level 2, Metro Town, Tseung Kwan O, New Territories 4, p. 139 (E2)


Casa dei baMbini419K Queen’s Road West, Western

District 5, p. 138 (C2)(852) 2259 [email protected]

CiTY Kids hKppa pre-sChool2/F, East Wing, 12 Borrett Road, Mid-

Levels 6, p. 139 (C3)(852) 2522 [email protected]

deborah eduCaTional insTiTuTeShop 5 & 5B, G/F, Site 9, Whampoa

Garden, Hung Hom, Kowloon 7, p. 139 (D2)(852) 2994 [email protected]

disCoverY baY inTernaTional sChoolDiscovery Bay, Lantau Island

8, p. 138 (A2)

disCoverY MonTessori sChoolSuite 101, 92 Siena Avenue, Discovery Bay

City, Lantau Island 9, p. 138 (A2)(852) 2987 [email protected]

disCoverY Mind KindergarTen (disCoverY baY)

401, Marina Commercial Centre, G/F, 2-8 Coastline Villas, Discovery Bay

10, p. 138 (A2)(852) 2987 [email protected]

disCoverY Mind inTernaTional plaY CenTre (disCoverY baY)

Shop 139B, 1/F, Discovery Bay Plaza, Discovery Bay 11, p. 138 (A2)


disCoverY Mind inTernaTional plaY CenTre and KindergarTen

G/F, Seaview Crescent, 8 Waterfront, Tung Chung, Lantau Island 12, p. 138 (A2)


esf abaCus KindergarTenMang Kung Uk Village Road, Clear Water

Bay, New Territories 13, p. 139 (E2)(852) 2719 [email protected]

esf hillside KindergarTen 438 Stubbs Road 14, p. 139 (D3)


esf Tsing Yi KindergarTen Maritime Square, 33 Tsing King

Road, Tsing Yi, New Territories 15, p. 138 (B1)(852) 2436 [email protected]

esf inTernaTional KindergarTen (wu Kai sha)

Level 1, 599 Sai Sha Road, Sha Tin, New Territories 16, p. 139 (D1)



119118 PREPARATIONS PREPARATIONSEducationEducation

garden house pre-sChool7 Silverstrand Beach Road, Silverstrand,

Kowloon 17, p. 139 (E2)(852) 2358 [email protected]

highgaTe house sChool100 Peak Road, The Peak

18, p. 139 (C3)(852) 2849 6336, 2849 [email protected]

hong Kong (asCoT) pre-sChool & plaYsChool

G/F, 1 Tsun King Road, Royal Ascot, Sha Tin, New Territories 19, p. 139 (D1)


hong Kong pre-sChool plaYgroups assoCiaTion

2/F, East Wing, 12 Borrett Road, Mid-Levels 20, p. 139 (C3)


hong loK Yuen inTernaTional sChool

20th Street, Hong Lok Yuen, Tai Po, New Territories 21, p. 139 (D1)


inTernaTional MonTessori sChoolSouth Horizon Campus: G/F, Blocks 23-

23A, Phase III South Horizons, Ap Lei Chau 22, p. 138 (C3)(852) 2861 0339Primary School Campus: 62

Tin Hau Temple Road, Tin Hau 23, p. 139 (D3)(852) 2156 [email protected]

island Children’s MonTessori sChool

Units B-C, G/F, 16 Tin Hau Temple Road 24, p. 139 (D2)(852) 3427 [email protected]

KinderuRm 601-602, 6/F, Eton Tower, 8 Hysan

Avenue, Causeway Bay 25, p. 139 (D3)(852) 2970 2382UG Floor, Block 27, South Horizons, Ap

Lei Chau 26, p. 138 (C3)(852) 2875 0452Shop 202, Level 2, Park Central, 9 Tong

Tak Street, Tseung Kwan O, New Territories 27, p. 139 (E2)(852) 3968 [email protected]

leapfrog KindergarTenNo. 11, Pak Tam Chung Village, Sai Kung,

New Territories 28, p. 139 (E1)(852) 2791 [email protected]

learning habiTaT KindergarTenLevel 1, Commercial Building, Villa

Esplanada, Tsing Yi, 8 Nga Ying Chau Street, New Territories 29, p. 138 (B1)

(852) 2501 5500UG 45C, Fisherman’s Wharf, 8 Laguna

Verde Avenue, Hong Hom, Kowloon 30, p. 139 (D2)(852) 2363 1500Shop 2, 5/F, Hampton Loft, 11 Hoi Fan

Road, Tai Kok Tsui, Kowloon 31, p. 139 (C2)(852) 2501 [email protected]

lanTau inTernaTional sChool72 Rural Committee Road, G/F, Mui Wo,

Lantau 32, p. 139 (D1)(852) 2984 [email protected]

liTTle MonTessorian19/F, Jardine Centre, 50 Jardine Bazaar,

Causeway Bay 33, p. 139 (D3)(852) 3621 0010, 3421 [email protected]

Modern MonTessori inTernaTional pre-sChool & KindergarTen

Block H14, G/F, Chi Fu Fa Yuen, Pok Fu Lam 34, p. 138 (C3)

(852) 2550 7168www.mmi_hongkong.commmipfl@mmi_hongkong.com

MonTessori for ChildrenHouse A, Phoenix Garden, RBL 1033, Tai

Tam Village, Stanley 35, p. 139 (D4)(852) 2813 [email protected]

new song ChrisTian KindergarTenCommercial Area, Floral Villas Complex,

18 Tso Wo Road, Sai Kung, New Territories 36, p. 139 (E1)(852) 2791 [email protected]

norwegian inTernaTional sChool175 Kwong Fuk Road, Tai Po, New


parKview inTernaTional pre-sChool hong Kong

Tower 18 Parkiview, 88 Tai Tam Reservoir Road 38, p. 139 (D3)


parKview inTernaTional pre-sChool Kowloon

Podium Level, Kowloon Station, 1 Austin Road, West Kowloon 39, p. 139 (C2)


sai Kung inTernaTional pre-sChool159 Che Keng Tuk Road, Sai Kung, New

Territories 40, p. 139 (E1)(852) 2791 [email protected]

righTMind KindergarTenUG Floor, Block 27, South Horizons, Ap

Lei Chau 41, p. 138 (C3)(852) 2875 [email protected]

sMall world ChrisTian KindergarTen

10 Borrett Road, Mid-Levels 42, p. 139 (C3)(852) 2525 [email protected]

The MonTessori sChool of hong Kong

G/F, 37 Pok Fu Lam Road 51, p. 138 (C2)(852) 2869 1811www.montessori-edu.commontessori.hk@ montessori-edu.com

The peaK pre-sChool81 Peak Road, The Peak


sunshine house KindergarTenShop 137-138, 1/F, D.B. Plaza, Discovery

Bay, Lantau Island 43, p. 138 (A2)(852) 2987 8143dbay@ www.sunshinehouse.com.hk1/F, Redhill Plaza, Redhill, Tai Tam

44, p. 139 (D3)(852) 2813 0713taitam@ www.sunshinehouse.com.hk2 Mei Tung Street, Tung Chung

Crescent, Tung Chung, Lantau Island 45, p. 138 (A2)(852) 2109 3873tungchung@ www.sunshinehouse.com.hkLevel 3, The Peak Galleria, 118 Peak

Road, The Peak 46, p. 139 (C3)(852) 2849 7123peak@ www.sunshinehouse.com.hkCommercial Development Block

A, 180 Pok Fu Lam Road, Pok Fu Lam 47, p. 138 (C3)(852) 2551 3213pokfulam@ www.sunshinehouse.com.hkH1, G/F, Fu Lai Yuen, Chi Fu Fa Yuen, Chi

Fu Road, Pok Fu Lam 48, p. 138 (C3)(852) 2551 3781chifu@ www.sunshinehouse.com.hkShop No. 106, 1/F, 92 Siena

Avenue, Discovery Bay, Lantau Island 49, p. 138 (A2)(852) 2987 8143dbaynorth@ www.sunshinehouse.com.hkwww.sunshinehouse.com.hk

The harbour sChool23 Belcher’s Street, 2/F, Kennedy Town

Centre, Kennedy Town 50, p. 138 (C2)(852) 2816 [email protected]


121120 PREPARATIONS PREPARATIONSEducationEducation Education

x

ThinK inTernaTional KindergarTenG/F, 99 Cha Kwo Ling Road, Kowloon

53, p. 139 (E2)(852) 2727 [email protected] 2, 628 Sai Sha Road, Ma On Shan,

New Territories 54, p. 139 (D1)(852) 2633 [email protected] 152, Nob Hill, 8 King Lai Path, Kwai

Chung, New Territories 55, p. 138 (C1)(852) 2727 [email protected] Lincoln Road, Kowloon


TuTor TiMe inTernaTional nurserY & KindergarTen

LG/F, Breamar Hill Shopping Centre, 45 Braemar Hill Road 56, p. 139 (D2)

(852) 2529 1833G/F, Botanical Court, 5 Caine Road, Mid-

Levels 57, p. 139 (C3)(852) 2529 2288101, 1/F, Red Hill Plaza, 3 Red Hill Road,

Tai Tam 58, p. 139 (D3)(852) 2813 20081 Dorset Crescent, Kowloon Tong,

Kowloon 59, p. 139 (D1)(852) 2337 08229 Suffolk Road, Kowloon Tong, Kowloon


viCToria KindergarTen and nurserY14 Hong On Street, Kornhill

61, p. 139 (D3)(852) 2513 120818 Hong On Street, Kornhill

62, p. 139 (D3)(852) 2885 18882-8 Hong On Street, Kornhill

63, p. 139 (D3)(852) 2885 3331Harbour Heights, North Point

64, p. 139 (D2)(852) 2571 7888Podium Level, South Horizons

65, p.138 (C3)(852) 2580 8633The Westwood, 8 Belcher’s Street

66, p. 138 (C2)(852) 2542 70019 Carmel Village Street, Ho Man Tin,

Kowloon 67, p. 139 (D2)(852) 2762 9130Harbour Green, 8 Sham Mong Road,

Kowloon 68, p. 139 (C2)(852) 2885 [email protected]

woodland MonTessori pre-sChoolG118-119 The Repulse Bay, 109 Repulse

Bay Road 69, p. 139 (D4)(852) 2803 [email protected]/F, 119-125 Caine Road, Mid-Levels


woodland pre-sChools2/F, 35 Beach Road, Repulse Bay

71, p.139 (D4)(852) 2812 [email protected] Hawthorn Road, Happy Valley

72, p. 139 (D3)(852) 2575 [email protected]/F, Commercial Complex, Wah Fu (II),

Pok Fu Lam 73, p. 138 (C3)(852) 2551 [email protected]/F, 3 Aberdeen Praya Road

74, p. 139 (C3)(852) 2559 [email protected]/F, Scenic Villas, 26-28 Scenic Villa Drive,

Pok Fu Lam 75, p. 138 (C3)(852) 2872 [email protected]/F, Red Hill Plaza, 3 Red Hill Road, Tai

Tam 76, p. 139 (D3)(852) 2525 [email protected]

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EDUCATION MAP

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122 EDUCATION MAP

disTriCTs1. Mid-leVels2. tHe PeaK3. PoK FU laM4. HaPPY ValleY5. deeP Water baY6. rePUlse baY7. discoVerY baY8. stanleY9. KoWloon

10. KoWloon tong11. sHa tin12. clear Water baY 113. clear Water baY 214. sai KUng15. nortH Point16. qUarrY baY17. aP lei cHaU18. tai taM and sHeK o

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iNTerNaTiONaL aND

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A

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B C D E

A B C D E

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125

pat essentials xe

EDUCATION MAP

pat essentials xe

124 EDUCATION MAP

KiNDerGarTeN aND

Pre scHOOLs

10114349

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15 1619

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disTriCTs1. Mid-leVels2. tHe PeaK3. PoK FU laM4. HaPPY ValleY5. deeP Water baY6. rePUlse baY7. discoVerY baY8. stanleY9. KoWloon

10. KoWloon tong11. sHa tin12. clear Water baY 113. clear Water baY 214. sai KUng15. nortH Point16. qUarrY baY17. aP lei cHaU18. tai taM and sHeK o

1

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29

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xSOFT LANDING

SOFT LANDING 129

pat essentials xe

After months of tireless and diligent preparations, you’ve arrived in Hong Kong and the task of settling into your new home begins. This section will help orient you in the city and find all the essential services you need, from banking to health care to domestic help and almost everything in between.

Keep in mind as you read that our listings are never exhaustive, nor are they meant to be. At expat essentials we know well the meaning of the 'tyranny of choice' and thus seek to provide you with reliable options to ensure your soft landing. In addition to your colleagues and friends, the resources we recommend will help you customize your life in Hong Kong and ensure that you fall in love with one of the world’s great cities.

INTRODUCTION

pat essentials xe

WHEN YOU ARRIVE 130

HEALTH CARE 132

MONEY AND BANKING 146

FINDING HOUSING 168

SERVICED APARTMENTS 164

HOTELS 158

GETTING CONNECTED 150

CULTURE SHOCK 154

DEEP WATER BAY 201

NORTH POINT 224

MID-LEVELS 172

HAPPY VALLEY 188

KOWLOON TONG 216

REPULSE BAY 194

CLEARWATER BAY 220

THE PEAK 178

DISCOVERY BAY 204

AP LEI CHAU 226

STANLEY 208

TAI TAM 230

GETTING AROUND 140

POK FU LAM 182

KOWLOON 212

SUBWAY MAP 232

SOFT LANDING 131130 SOFT LANDING When you arriveWhen you arrive

For your first night in Hong Kong, consider taking the ferry to Kowloon and walking along the promenade. Taking in the view of your new home on your first night will only happen once.

TOP MiDDLE: Our photographer’s

passportBELOW:

Happy Valley at night

Even to seasoned travellers, Hong

Kong can be intimidating

when You arrive

Hong Kong is an incredibly international city with English

widely spoken and excellent signposting and transport resources. Arriving is a pleasant and straightforward experience – well, as pleasant as could be considering you’ve probably just got off a long-haul flight. The airport is one of the world’s best, transport links are good, and everything is clearly signposted.Even when there are a lot of people queuing for immigration, the wait is never too long and they’re quick to open up new lines when needed. It’s a calm, well-designed area and you’ll move through it quickly. If you’re entering on a tourist visa, make sure to keep the exit card that remains when the immigration officer has taken off the top layer of your entrance card, since you’ll need it when you’re leaving (even if you go to Macau). Look on with envy at Hong Kong residents, who simply need to swipe a smart card to clear immigration – soon that will be you.

Grab a map in the arrival hall, then start thinking about how to get out of the airport. Hong Kong International Airport is on Lantau Island, about 30 km from Central.

Unless you’re being met, your best bet is probably the Airport Express, which is about a minute’s walk away when you exit baggage claim. (There’s also an air bus, but the cost saving isn’t worth the extra time and inconvenience.) Buy a ticket at the customer service desk (which may be offering promotional discounts) or from a machine, with cash or credit card (or Octopus card – see below). It’s HKD100 to Central, HKD90 to Kowloon. Trains come every 10 minutes and it takes 24 minutes to get to Central – considerably faster than a taxi. Whichever station you get off at, there are taxi ranks and free shuttle buses to various hotels. Everything is clearly signposted.

Of course, if you just want the convenience of a taxi to your door, then the taxi rank will sort you out with very little waiting. This should

cost around HKD300 to Tsim Sha Tsui, HKD350-400 to Hong Kong Island. You can trust the meter, though note that the driver will add on small surcharges at the end, depending on luggage and number of passengers. This is normal and above board. You don’t need to tip the driver, though most people tend not to look for change of less than HKD5 or so.

We strongly suggest buying an Octopus card – one for each of the family – at the airport. The Octopus card is a smart card which works on buses, trams, the MTR, the Star Ferry and more – any public transport that doesn’t leave Hong Kong, essentially, though not taxis – and is also accepted in convenience stores and the like, even some restaurants. With it, you can live a cashless life in Hong Kong without too much difficulty. They cost HKD150 at first (HKD50

deposit and HKD100 in stored value), but you should definitely put a few hundred dollars on each one to save thinking about it for a while. They’ll have them at the customer service desk. You can use it for the Airport Express immediately if needed, and it saves any worries about exact change and fares in your first few days in the city.

Get yourself tuned into the new time zone as soon as you can. This essentially means trying to stay up until a reasonable bedtime on the first day, setting your alarm for a decent hour the next day. Then avoid afternoon naps for a few days. Easier said than done.

If you have free time in the first few days, it’s a great opportunity to have fun wandering the streets and trying new food – but we all look for comfort food if we feel overwhelmed in a new city, so don’t give yourself a hard time if you feel this isn’t the moment to start experimenting or you’re feeling a bit jet lagged. There’s Western food available on practically every street of the city, as well as plenty of approachable Cantonese food such as rice or noodle dishes to start off with before the experimentation starts.

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SOFT LANDING 133132 SOFT LANDING

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Health care Health care

Hong Kong is hot and humid most of the year, so keep yourself hydrated.

Most fruit and vegetables are imported from the mainland, meaning more use of pesticides and more exposure to a poorly regulated food chain. Wash and peel and you’ll be fine.

The emergency number – police,

ambulance, fire brigade – is

999. Hong Kong emergency services speak English and

help will arrive very quickly. But you

might want to write down the name in

English and Chinese of your nearest

hospital in case you want to take a taxi.

healTh Care

Hong Kong’s medical facilities and services are excellent – there’s

a reason it has the world’s second-highest life expectancy despite increasing pollution and a dense urban population. Since the SARS epidemic in 2003, health authorities have become extremely motivated to get on top of infectious disease, and have been tested by bird flu scares since, which means procedures and systems are in place. Health education is good, and you’ll see little spitting or uncovered coughing. You’ll also notice people wearing surgical masks, which guard against infection as well as preventing others getting infected should the wearer be sick. Hong Kong has no mandatory immunizations, but experts recommend jabs for hepatitis A and B and typhoid, particularly if you plan to travel around the region.

The health care system is also among the best in the world, with advanced facilities and technologies, and subsidies making it very affordable for Hong Kong residents – which includes you, once you have your Hong Kong Identity Card. There’s a British-style GP system, meaning you see your local doctor for basic complaints. For any more serious problems, a public hospital will do a great job for almost any ailment or injury you may suffer, and it won’t cost you an arm and a leg (in either sense). They may not be big on bedside manner or speak perfect English, and may be brusque and not overly inclined to listen to what you have to say, but rest assured that the medical care itself is excellent and leaves little to desire in comparison with private care. Waiting times for non-emergencies can be trying and there’s little privacy though, plus of course the hospital food is at best most uninspiring.

Doctors love to prescribe drugs no matter how small the ailment, and most hospitals have their own pharmacies. Mannings and Watsons are the most prominent drugstores, and many most have in-store pharmacies too. You’ll find almost all the medications you’re used to and can ask pharmacists for local equivalents if not.

Alternatively, there are also private hospitals and clinics, all extremely plush and comfortable. If your employer is covering your health insurance, this is a great way to go; but as mentioned above, the gap in terms of actual quality of care is pretty small. With the exception of specialists for some serious diseases, you’re paying for perfect English, privacy, immediate service, better food and more comfortable surroundings. Of course, these are nothing to be sneezed at and you’ll enjoy excellent facilities if you go private. These are some of the most expensive medical services in the world, so make sure you discuss this in advance of agreeing the details of your employment package, or shop around for international insurance in advance.

Pre-natal and maternity leave is excellent and essentially free, though you have to give birth in your nearest hospital rather than choose yourself. You have nothing at all to fear about giving birth in Hong Kong. You can also go private, with the same advantages as above. One thing to bear in mind is that the increasing numbers of women from the Chinese mainland choosing to give birth in Hong Kong – a controversial and politically delicate trend – means maternity beds both

Hong Kong’s tap water is drinkable, and you don’t need to boil it or make any other special arrangements. However, poor pipes in some buildings can make it slightly dodgy – you’ll be able to see this for yourself if there is any strange coloring. In fact, even this water probably won’t do you any harm, but don’t risk it. In any case, you’ll almost certainly be in a modern building and won’t have to worry about it. Whether it’s for taste or a sense of hygiene, locals do tend to drink bottled water, and as in any other city in the world this is easy to find and cheap.

food safeTYYou’re in one of the world’s great street-food cities, and the good news is you don’t need to let trepidation stop you wading right in and trying everything. Hong Kong’s food and drink regulations are strict and well enforced, and even the woman selling you fish balls from a hole in the wall is being checked. However, it’s still street food and it’s still a city with urban grit and hot weather – eat at the places that seem popular with locals and avoid food that looks like it’s been lying in the sun all day. You may not want to look into the kitchens of your local lunch place, but it’s unlikely to make you ill and hygiene is much improved since the SARS outbreak a decade ago.

When it comes to food shopping, you can’t get much fresher than alive, and that’s just what your fish and poultry will be until you point at them and bring their days to a halt. Locals like it this way, and if you shop at wet markets and local meat shops you’ll soon get used to it. It makes for some bloody street-side sights, and the massive cuts of meat swinging from hooks can take some getting used to, but as long as the meat hasn’t been hanging in the heat all day you can feel pretty safe about it.

public and private get booked up very early. Book one as soon as you know you’re pregnant.

Dental care is all private, and pricey. Local doctors are fine, but stick to the more established practices. As ever, private expat specialists are available too.

While far less popular than on the mainland, TCM (Traditional Chinese Medicine) is fascinating, and can be effective where Western medicine fails, or used in conjunction with it. It’s not snake oil: medicine is produced in laboratories and clinically proven to be effective.

JeT lagUnless you’re coming from elsewhere in Asia, Hong Kong is likely to be a fair few time zones away from you – 12 or 13 hours from the US east coast, six or seven from most of Western Europe (Hong Kong doesn’t change to Daylight Saving Time, so it varies). The days of the slow boat to China are over, so while you’ll get here quickly your body might take a while to adapt. Allow about a day per time zone to get properly aligned.

Try to adapt to the new time zone immediately. Arrive in the evening, go straight to bed and set your alarm for a normal waking time; if you land earlier, do your best to stay up until at least 9pm. In this sense, having to go to work can help you. Avoid tempting afternoon naps, and if you wake up in the middle of the night don’t sleep in as a result. Eat lightly at normal times and avoid alcohol and caffeine. But even if you break all these rules with convivial welcome meals from new colleagues or friends, your body will still right itself within a week or so.

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134 SOFT LANDING SOFT LANDING 135

Hong Kong has some of the best

medical facilities in Asia. Rest assured

that if you need medical assistance,

you will be well taken care of.

healTh insuranCeThere’s no medical test required for residency in Hong Kong, and you’ll find the medical system very easy to work out. General Practitioners (GPs) are your first port of call for basic illnesses (a system introduced by the British, meaning you’ll have a specific family doctor), and both public and private hospitals are excellent. You’ll probably have health insurance through your company, and their insurer of choice will have a list of hospitals and clinics that they have a relationship with.

Health insurance in Hong Kong is not mandatory, and if you’re not insured, standard illnesses or even broken bones and the like won’t bankrupt you, as long as you use the public system; however, private hospitals are expensive and if you’re going to be here long term you should consider private insurance. Some international brokers are Expatriate Insurance Services (www.expatriateinsurance.com), Medibroker (www.medibroker.com) and International Medical Group (www.imglobal.com).

HealtH serVices

Health care

Large institution (1,400 beds, and Asia’s tallest hospital building) covering the Southern and Western districts; also a teaching hospital.

102 Pok Fu Lam Road, Pok Fu Lam

2855 3838www.ha.org.hk/qmh

nM 19 p.234, B2 ea 19 p.234, B2

General hospital with 600 beds and an impressive surgical department – note it does not cover paediatrics.

266 Queen’s Road East, Wan Chai

2291 2000www.ha.org.hk

nM 31 p.246, A2 ea 31 p.222, A2

Wide range of clinical departments including pediatrics and obstetrics, in a large, modern facility with 1,800 beds.

3 Lok Man Road, Chai Wan

2595 6111www.ha.org.hk/pyneh

nM 36 p.331,C3 ea 36 p.331, C3

PaMela YoUde netHersole eastern HosPital

qUeen MarY HosPital

rUttonjee HosPital

Health care

privaTe hospiTalsBelow are all 12 private hospitals in Hong Kong. Many are religiously founded and affiliated, but accept all patients and you’ll find them little different to other hospitals. Times refer to outpatient services; all receive emergency patients 24 hours and visiting hours are usually 9am-9pm. For more information, see www.privatehospitals.org.hk.

Non-profit Catholic general hospital with 150 beds and a range of clinics including child care and maternity.

24 hours

1 Old Peak Road, Mid-Levels

2522 2181www.canossahospital.org.hk

nM 19 p.224, C1 ea 19 p.222, C1

Christian non-profit hospital with high quality of care and a high-tech approach, with both Hong Kong Island and New Territories locations.

Mon-Thu 9am-8:30pm; Fri, Sun 9am-12:30pm, 2-4:30pm

Hong Kong adVentist HosPital

Major acute teaching hospital covering all kinds of primary care, with a range of clinics and particular experience with cancer, chest and heart diseases.

30 Gascoigne Road, Kowloon

2958 8888www.ha.org.hk/qeh

nM 30 p.291, C1 ea 30 p.222, C1

Beautiful and pricy exclusive hospital on The Peak, with core services of maternity, orthopedic, surgical and health assessment. Has affiliated medical services in Central and Tsim Sha Tsui.

8am-10pm

41 Mount Kellett Road, The Peak

2849 0111www.matilda.org

nM 18 p.224, B4 ea 18 p.222, B4

Matilda international HosPital

The newest of the city’s private hospitals with over 300 beds, this covers the New Territories area and has a wide range of clinics.

24 hours

Tai Wai, Sha Tin, New Territories

2608 3388www.union.org

nM 87 p.305, D4 ea 87 p.222, D4

Hong Kong’s first private hospital, this facility has 800 beds and is affiliated with the local Baptist Church. Note that it does not provide emergency services.

24 hours

222 Waterloo Rd, Kowloon Tong

2339 8888www.hkbh.org.hk

nM 85 p.303, D1 ea 85 p.222, D1

Hong Kong baPtist HosPital

Catholic hospital specializing in general medicine, surgery, gynecology, orthopedics and ophthalmology.

8am-midnight

113 Castle Peak Road, Sham Shui Po, West Kowloon

3971 9900www.pbh.hk

nM 86 p.302, A2 ea 86 p.222, A2

PrecioUs blood HosPital (caritas)

qUeen elizabetH HosPital

canossa HosPital

Union HosPital

pat essentials xe

Hong Kong Island40 Stubbs Road, Happy Valley

2547 6211www.hkah.org.hk

Tsuen Wan, 199 Tsuen King Circuit, Tsuen Wan, New Territories

2276 7676www.twah.org.hk

nM 32 p.246, B4 ea 32 p.222, B4

nM 82 p.302, A2 ea 82 p.222, A2

Hong Kong Sanatorium & Hospital is one of the leading private hospitals in Hong Kong. Founded as The Yeung Wo Nursing Home with 28 beds in the beginning, today the Hospital has around 500 beds, offering diagnostic and therapeutic services in a pleasant, environment.

24 hours

2 Village Road, Happy ValleynM 33 p.246, B3 ea 33 p222, B3

2572 0211www.hksh.org.hk

Advanced Special Care Unit and Polyclinic services offering both medical and cosmetic treatments, as well as the usual clinics.

8am-10pm

1 Lower Albert Road, Central

2522 3141www.hkch.org

nM 45 p.214, B3 ea 45 p.222, B3

Hong Kong central HosPital

Hong Kong sanatoriUM & HosPital

Catholic hospital with over 400 beds and a good reputation for personalized care.

24 hours

2 Eastern Hospital Road, Causeway Bay

2830 8888www.stpaul.org.hk

nM 34 p.246, C2 ea 34 p.222, C2

st. PaUl’s HosPital

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136 SOFT LANDING SOFT LANDING 137

pat essentials xe

Health care Health care

Cosmetic surgery has exploded

in popularity in Shanghai in recent years, and whereas

in the past most people went to

Korea for the latest procedures,

techniques have advanced to the

point where Koreans are starting

to come here.

Affiliated with St. Paul’s above, they have 600 beds and a wide range of specialties, as well as a nursing school.

24 hours

327 Prince Edward Rd, Kowloon

2200 3434www.sth.org.hk d

nM 83 p.303, D3 ea 83 p.222, D3

Evangelical-founded hospital special-izing in diagnostic and preventative medicine.

8am-midnight

222 Argyle Street, Kowloon

2711 5221www.evangel.org.hk

nM 84 p.303, D3 ea 84 p.222, D3

general praCTiTionersYour first port of call will usually be your GP; below are some practices where English is spoken, either by native speakers or doctors with overseas training. For a full list, see www.mchk.org.hk.

This Singaporean medical practice chain offers health screening packages, diagnostic testing and dental services. There’s also an airport branch.

Mon-Fri 8:30am-6pm, Sat 8:30 am-1pm

29/F, Li Dong Building, 9 Li Yuen Street East, Central

3168 2102

Suites 906-7 Lincoln House, Tai Koo Place, 979 King’s Road, Quarry Bay

2525 1730www.rafflesmedicalgroup.com/

hong-kong

nM 50 p.214, B2 ea 50 p.222, B2

nM 38 p.329, E2 ea 38 p.222, E2

eVangel HosPital

st. teresa’s HosPital

raFFles Medical

The Ken Lee Medical Centre offers orthopedic, general surgery and OB/GYN services along with psychother-apy services.

Mon-Fri 10am-1pm, 3-7pm; Sat 10am-1pm, 3-5pm

Rooms 1825-27 Argyle Centre Phase 1, 688 Nathan Road, Mong Kok, Kowloon nM 88 p.302, B4 ea 88 p.222, B4

Somewhere between a GP and an emergency responder, this service has a clinic but specializes in emergency house calls.

8am-midnight

16/F, Hing Wai Building, 36 Queen's Road, Central

6017 1281www.doctorsdirect.com.hk

nM 46 p.214, B3 ea 46 p.222, B3

Experienced and friendly clinic offering house calls and 24-hour emergency service. Part of the same group as the next two listings.

Mon-Thu 8am-7pm, Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 9am-2pm

Shop 109A, Discovery Bay Plaza, Discovery Bay

2987 7575www.islandhealth.com.hk

nM 15 p.272, C3 ea 15 p.222, C3

island HealtH FaMilY Practice

Friendly family service specializing in obstetrics & gynecology, pediatrics, family health and psychiatry.

Mon-Fri 8:30am-6pm, Sat 9am-1pm

3/F, Baskerville House, 13 Duddell Street, Central

2824 0822www.centralhealth.com.hk

nM 47 p.214, B3 ea 47 p.222, B3

central HealtH Medical Practice

Family specialists, including child psychology, speech therapy and counseling.

Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 8am-1pm

6th Floor, One Island SouthSuite 615, 2 Heung Yip Road

2592 9000www.southside.com.hk

nM 14 p.280, B1 ea 14 p.222, B1

soUtHside FaMilY HealtH centre

A chain of four practices around the territory, specializing in family medicine and obstetrics and gynaecology. However almost all services are covered at one or more of their clinics. In March 2010 OT&P became the first medical clinic in Hong Kong to be awarded Australian Council of Health Services (ACHS) accreditation endorsed by the International Society for Quality in Health Care, the body that oversees healthcare standards worldwide.

Mon-Fri 8:30am-6pm, Sat 9am-12:30pm

5/F, Century Square, D’Aguilar Street, Central

2521 3181

1501 Shui On Centre, 8 Harbour Road, Wan Chai

2824 9112

G205 The Repulse Bay, 109 Repulse Bay Road, Repulse Bay

2813 1978

Razor Hill Dairy Farm Shopping Centre, Clear Water Bay Road, Pik Uk, New Territories nM 51 p.319,D2 ea 51 p.222, D2

2719 6366www.otandp.com

nM 48 p.214, A3 ea 48 p.222, A3

nM 49 p.215, E3 ea 49 p.222, E3

nM 11 p.257,C2 ea 11 p.222, C2

Ken lee Medical centre

doctors direct

ot&P

2787 0222www.yp.com.hk/kenleemed dentists

What follows is a select list of dental specialists popular with the expat community. For a full list go to www.dchk.org.hk.

Founded over 50 years ago, this practice’s five clinics offer a wide range of dental procedures, as well as a 24-hour emergency service.

Mon-Sat 9am-6pm

Podium Level, 210-218 Jardine House, 1 Connaught Place, Central

2526 1061

Mon-Fri 9am-1pm, 2-6pm; Sat 9am-1pm

Shop G207 Repulse Bay Shopping Arcade, 109 Repulse Bay Road, Repulse Bay l

2812 2358

Mon-Sat 9am-6pm

Room 1401 Ocean Centre, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon

2730 3585

nM 52 p.214, B2 ea 52 p.222, B2

nM 12 p.257, C2 ea 12 p.222, C2

nM 31 p.290, B4 ea 31 p.222, B4

baYleY & jacKson dental sUrgeons

Unsurprisingly, there are many claims that China was an early innovator in dental terms. Teeth-cleaning techniques were recorded in writing as early as three thousand years ago; these included swallowing saliva and using breathing exercises to manage toothache.

BELOW: Queen Mary Hospital

138 SOFT LANDING Health care

dr jaMes Woo & associates

US-trained dentists specializing in family dentistry, including emergency treatment.


908 Crawford House, 70 Queen’s Road, Central

2869 6986nM 54 p.214, A3 ea 54 p.222, A3

Aiming for “stress-free dentistry”, this practice’s two clinics offer pleasant environments with child-friendly facilities and expert care.


www.thpdental.com

Room 1506 World-Wide House, 19 Des Voeux Road, Central

2868 1775

Shop G208 Repulse Bay Shopping Arcade, 109 Repulse Bay Road

2812 6337

nM 53 p.214, B3 ea 53 p.222, B3

taM, HUlac & Partners dental

Dentistry and orthodontics provided by UK- and Australia-trained doctors.


Room 1709 East Point Centre, 555 Hennessy Road, Causeway Bay

2566 5866www.drrayli.com.hk

nM 36 p.246, B1 ea 36 p.222, B1

dr raYMond li

Unsurprisingly, there are many

claims that China was an

early innovator in dental terms. Teeth-cleaning

techniques were recorded in writing

as early as three thousand years

ago; these included swallowing saliva

and using breathing exercises to manage

toothache.


Room 701-2 Wai Fung Plaza, 664 Nathan Road, Mong Kok, Kowloon

2396 3263

Mon-Sat 9am-6pm

Unit 1301, Tower 1, Grand Central Plaza, 138 Sha Tin Rural Committee Road, Sha Tin, New Territories

2634 1282www.bjdental.com

nM 90 p.302, B4 ea 90 p.302, B4

nM 89 p.305, D3 ea 89 p.222, D3

Long-established clinic in Central with general, cosmetic and emergency services.


Room 703 Century Square, 1 D’Aguilar Street, CentralnM 44 p.222, A3 ea 44 p.222, A3

2526 2383www.smithandjaindentists.com

Australian-trained orthodontic spe-cialist in the heart of the city.

Mon, Thu-Fri 10am-1:30pm, 2:30-6:30pm; Tue 10am-1:30pm; Wed 2:30-6:30pm; Sat 10am-2pm

Room 1002 Manning House, 48 Queen’s Road, CentralnM 55 p.214, B3 ea 55 p.222, B3

3586 9710www.iortho.hk

English- and Japanese-language services with standard dental treatments as well as whitening and orthodontics.

Mon-Sat 10-7pm

Room 1503 World Trade Centre, 280 Gloucester Road, Causeway BaynM 37 p.246, B1 ea 37 p.222, B1

2808 4768www.japanesedentist.com.hk

Hong Kong jaPanese dental clinic

dr titania tong & associates

A family practitioner who aims to treat “the whole patient” and specializes in mercury-free dentistry.

Mon-Fri 9:30am-1pm, 2:30-6:30pm; Sat 9:30am-1pm

Room 1503 Winway Building, 50 Wellington Street, CentralnM 51 p.214, A3 ea 51p.222, A3

2810 1801www.dr-tong.com

a j sMitH & jain

iortHo dental

http://www.expatessentials.net


140 SOFT LANDING Getting around

Hong Kong isn’t a very big place, and it has an excellent

transportation system, particularly the subway system aka the MTR (Mass Transit Railway). Where it doesn’t go – primarily southern Hong Kong Island and the Outlying Islands – you’ve got a wide-ranging bus system, and taxis are plentiful and affordable. Hong Kong is a city that never stops, and everything’s in place to make sure you can get where you’re going fast.

Of course, living in such a crowded place has many downsides, and one is rush hour. Any big city has this, and Hong Kong does a great job of getting people to work and home again. You’ll find that the system works, despite the mass of humanity. Much is made easier by the fact that Hong Kongers are pretty good commuters. There’s a strong culture of waiting to let people off the train, standing to the right and walking to the left on escalators, and all the small elements of etiquette that oil the experience. You’ll be glad to hear that with the exception of trams, air conditioning abounds, making the summer commute more bearable.

One of the first things you should do in Hong Kong is buy an Octopus card (a rechargeable electronic stored value card), and from day one make sure you keep it charged at all times – aim not to drop below 100 dollars if you can. You can buy them at any MTR or train station, and you can top them up in machines there or at any 7-11. A new card costs HKD150 (HKD50 deposit, plus HKD100 starting balance). You can pay more to register your card so that if it’s lost or stolen you don’t lose any money. Children between ages three and 11 can get a child card that offers cheaper fares.

It works on all forms of public transport (though note: not in taxis) and means you never have to think about fares or exact change; there’s even a small discount for using it. You don’t even have to take your Octopus card out, just hold your wallet or bag over the reader and wait for the beep. And as you’ll soon see, you can also use it in convenience stores, fast food restaurants, car parks and photo booths. You can practically live cashless in Hong Kong as long as you stay away from wet markets and street vendors.

You won’t see anyone on bikes in the crowded north shore of Hong Kong Island, nor in Kowloon – too many people, too much traffic, narrow roads. In fact, the government officially discourages cycling for commuters, feeling that it should be a leisure activity. If you’re someone

who likes the idea of walking to work, what looks on the map like a short distance may turn out to be hill-heavy and more of a slog than you expected, and a lot of the year you certainly don’t want to spend more than 10 minutes marching around in a suit.

MTrThe six lines of the MTR take passengers along the north shore of Hong Kong Island, all over Kowloon and onto Lantau Island, zipping through underwater tunnels where needed. Rides cost between HKD3 and HKD25 depending on distance, and you simply scan your Octopus card at the turnstiles upon both entering and leaving (children between three and 11 are half-price). You can also buy single-trip tickets with machines. Signs are in English and Cantonese, as are station

geTTing aroundGet to know your

own neighborhood well first, then

gradually increase your comfort zone

by branching out to further areas of

interest.

ABOVE: Tram on Hong Kong Island

announcements (with the addition of Mandarin). For full information, go to www.mtr.com.hk (which also covers Rail and Light Rail).

Trains are clean and fast, though the seat spacing can feel a little tight for bigger people. If it’s rush hour you won’t be sitting down anyway. Some stations are extremely big, especially around Central, with a horde of lettered and numbered exits. However, signs are very clear and there are maps where you need them. You may get more exercise than you expect, since the platforms are often a few levels down and some exits are as much as a 10-minute walk away. Trains go from 6am to 1am, and you’ll rarely have to wait more than five minutes.

There’s no eating or drinking allowed – this is notable since there

For the first few weeks – even months – it’s a good idea to carry a street and MTR map around. Don't forget your expat atlas.


SOFT LANDING 143142 SOFT LANDING Getting around

was a kerfuffle in early 2011 when a local asked a mainland visitor to stop eating and tempers quickly rose. The video of the incident went viral and cross-border sensitivities meant a certain amount of sound and fury was generated. This won’t happen to you, but it’s still considered bad form.

rail and lighT railRail lines run up from Kowloon through the New Territories, in fact right to the border in the case of the East Rail Line. There’s also the West Rail Line and the Ma On Shan Line. Where these connect with the MTR (which runs them) it’s completely seamless, and you just carry on with your Octopus card. You have the option to top up to a first class compartment for twice the fare if you fancy shelling out to get a seat. There’s also the Airport Express Line, which you can take out to Disneyland too. Fares are HKD5-45.

The Light Rail system is in the New Territories, and links with the West Rail Line. Fares are HKD4-6 and you scan your card on the platform both before getting on and after getting off the train.

Taxi drivers in Hong Kong are very

trustworthy and it's pretty unlikely that you will be cheated or driven around in circles. Newcomers are often surprised

by the extras added on to the fare at the end, but this

is perfectly above board.

busesBuses have the distinct disadvantage of being subject to the vagaries of Hong Kong traffic – that’s just the nature of the beast. If you can take some kind of train, do so, but you won’t always be able to, and at the moment bus and taxi are the only options on Hong Kong Island for everything south of the North Shore. This means that if you live in Pok Fu Lam, Repulse Bay, Stanley or somewhere else along the south coast you’ll have to get to know the bus system. The MTR is to be extended south, but this is still some years away.

There are two types of bus: standard double-decker buses (a legacy of the British) and more haphazard minibuses. The double-deckers are run by two companies, KMB and Citybus-New World First Bus. Scan your Octopus card over the reader when you get on. Fares are set for each route, and clearly visible when you board the bus. If you’re paying cash, put the fare in the box (note that drivers don’t give change). Don’t expect drivers to speak English either, so your best bet the first time on a new route is to keep an eye on the name of the next stop, which rotates on the digital readout between Cantonese and English. It’s a good idea to learn to recognize the Chinese characters for your stop.

Destination and bus number are displayed on the front of the bus, and it’s worth paying some attention

to the letter after the number. ‘M’ means the bus links to an MTR station; ‘K’ means it links to a Rail station; ‘X’ is an express bus (so make sure it stops where you want to get off); and ‘R’ means the bus is only in service on Sundays and public holidays. There are night buses between midnight and 6am, marked with an ‘N’. They’re perfectly safe, but really, a taxi is a better idea.

Minibuses (officially Public Light Buses) are a Hong Kong institution, filling the niche where a more flexible, zippy (and sometimes precarious) option is needed, and maintaining routes out to parts of the New Territories that don’t offer enough demand for ‘real’ buses. The green ones have standard routes like any other bus, but you can also flag them down. Red ones operate on similar principles, except that the route seems to vary between two points, depending on passenger exhortation, traffic and (it sometimes seems) driver whim. You can use an Octopus card on most of them, and if you live somewhere where you’re regularly taking the same route home the drivers will probably get to know where you want to get off. Until then, just wave your arm and make some kind of sound approximating ‘yau lok’ to tell the driver to stop.

Note that minibuses are not allowed to carry standing passengers, so you simply won’t be allowed on a full one, and may have to wait to see

how many people get off to discover if you’ll be getting on or not. They carry 16 passengers and, depending on the route, run between about 6am and midnight.

TraMsMany overseas residents find trams the most enjoyable form of transport in Hong Kong – as long as they’re not in a rush, since despite the fact that there are dedicated rails in the street and in theory trams are not slowed by traffic, in practice they simply don’t go very quickly. They’re fun though, old-fashioned and narrow double-deckers that from certain angles almost look two-dimensional. You board at the back and scan your Octopus card when you get off at the front, or else pay the incredible flat fee of HKD2 for adults, HKD1 for kids. There’s no air conditioning, but once you head to the upper deck the air crossing through as the tram moves cools you down.

They only cover one main route, but this goes right through Central and Wan Chai as it meanders between Shau Kei Wan and Kennedy Town. The tram is actually extremely useful

TOP CENTER: Rolls on Peking Road BELOW: Hong Kong taxi driverBELOW:

Des Voeux Road

Getting around



for Happy Valley residents, who can take it up to Causeway Bay and switch to the MTR there, or the other way into Central.

ferriesYou probably won’t be taking ferries to every single one of Hong Kong’s 200-odd islands, but people living in Discovery Bay, for example, will be commuting by water most days, and the Star Ferry between Tsim Sha Tsui and Central is the city’s best travel deal and one of the world’s great transport experiences.

The Outlying Islands Ferry Piers in Central is where you’ll find most of the ferries you need, and you should pick up the relevant timetable there. You’ll need to use this as a hub if for any reason you’re going from one of the smaller islands to another, though there’s a limited inter-island ferry system. There’s a range of different ferry operators, each running specific routes – journeys are from 20 minutes to an hour. Note that the 24-hour Discovery Bay ferry goes from Pier 3. Prices vary but they’re not expensive and as

HKD72.5. You pay an extra HKD5 for each piece of baggage, as well as for pets, so the final fare quoted may be a bit higher than you read on the meter. Drivers are mostly honest and use the meter. There’s no need to tip, but most people round up to the nearest five or 10 dollars to avoid dealing with small change.

Most drivers speak little English, but should recognize the English name of all the main hotels, streets and areas. If worst comes to worst, you can have them call the English-speaking control center for help.

You also have to pay tolls (added to the final fare) – the most common is for the Crossharbour Tunnel between Hong Kong Island and Kowloon. Drivers are within their rights to ask you to pay the toll both ways, since they anticipate returning empty to their own side. For some reason, Hong Kong cabbies don’t tend to be too familiar with Kowloon, and vice-versa, and this means that even though in theory they’re not allowed to turn down a passenger based on location, in practice many don’t want

to take people crossing to the other side – thus the double toll guarantee. This has led to special (and not strictly legal) cross-harbor taxi stands on either side where taxis with their red light on are actually available, as long as you’re going back to the side they call home.

drivingParking spaces are at a premium, as well as expensive, and streets are gridlocked (Hong Kong is a world leader in both traffic and population density). Our advice for driving in Hong Kong is: don’t. However, if you’re in the New Territories and have a bit more space to roam in, it’s doable. We still don’t recommend commuting into the city by car though, if you can avoid it.

Holding a valid driving license from most Western countries means you can get a Hong Kong license without a test (you can also drive on your original license for a year in theory, but once you get your Resident Card you need to switch to a Hong Kong license). Driving, of course, is on the left.

ever you can use your Octopus card, though if you take the same route daily you may be able to get monthly deals from the operator.

Commuting by ferry is more pleasant than most other forms of transport but means you’re at the mercy of bad weather and long waits if you miss the one you’re aiming for (or miss the last one at night). They’re safe, inexpensive and well run, and on the bigger routes may even offer snacks.

TaxisThe taxi color you’re most likely to get used to is red, since that’s the color for Hong Kong Island, Kowloon and the New Territories (they can also go to certain places on Lantau Island, including Disneyland and the airport). These are the vast majority of Hong Kong’s 18,000 taxis. Special green taxis cover the New Territories only, and Lantau has its own small blue fleet. These are slightly cheaper than red taxis.

Fares start at HKD20 and go up in HKD1.50 increments per 200 meters, HKD1 when the fare gets over

Ferries in Hong Kong are quite

comfortable and if you want to

work on board, the first class cabin

has sufficient work space on the folding table. The

best part is you will have mobile service,

which means you can tether your

laptop and have internet access

during your cruise.

BELOW: Star Ferry

Getting aroundGetting around


146 SOFT LANDING Money and banking

ABOVE: Hong Kong's currency

If you open a Hong Kong registered

company, that company 's tax

liability is limited to profits made in

Hong Kong.

Hong Kong has one of the lowest tax rates in the world and is a global financial center. As such, it’s an excellent place to think about investing the money you’ve been keeping under your mattress. There’s no shortage of financial advisors, and the business is well regulated, in main by the Securities and Futures Commission. Shop around, ask long-established expats for suggestions and look dubiously on anyone expecting you to pay for an initial meeting.

MaKing Your MoneY

MoneY and banKing

Hong Kong is a banking hub, and as such you’ll find it very

easy to sort out all things financial here. There are ATMs on practically every street and most banks are very customer-friendly – there’s enough competition for it to be in their interest. Banks are regulated by the Hong Kong Monetary Authority and your money is safe. You’ll see HSBC, Bank of East Asia and Hang Seng everywhere, since they’re the biggest banks here, but with 70 of the world’s top 100 banks keeping a presence in Hong Kong, you’ve got plenty of choice. Many expats use HSBC simply through familiarity back in their home country.

Opening an account is straightforward. You’ll need passport, Hong Kong ID card, your work visa and proof of address, such as an electricity bill or letter from a government body. This last

requirement is the only one that can sometimes be tricky for new arrivals; if it’s a problem, ask the bank to post you a letter, which you then return as proof of address. There may be a monthly charge for your account, though this can often be waived if you have a minimum balance.

Shop around if you don’t like the conditions. Banks all have phone and Internet banking services, and you can even plump for a purely Internet account, which should be free. You’ll still get an ATM card and you’ll be able to move your money around online, by phone and via ATMs. Getting a local credit card shouldn’t be a problem once you have an employment contract and thus a demonstrable source of sufficient income.

This being Hong Kong, you’ll be pitched all sorts of complicated/useful extras – keep it simple if you really just want to keep your money somewhere, but if you’re a banking whiz you’ll be in your element. Most relevant for foreigners are foreign currency and multicurrency accounts, which can be very useful when you need to transfer money abroad. Service is friendly and efficient, and English is spoken. Banks are usually open 9am-4:30pm Monday to Friday, and 9am-12:30pm on Saturdays – closed on Sundays. However,

branches are increasingly staying open later in the evenings. Like everywhere else, lunchtime is when things are busiest.

The currency, of course, is the Hong Kong dollar (HKD); you won’t be able to use RMB or US dollars as cash. Bank notes come in denominations of 10, 20, 50, 100, 500 and 1,000. For coins, there’s 10 cents, 20 cents and 50 cents, as well as 1, 2, 5 and 10 dollars. The currency is linked to the US dollar at a rate of HKD7.75-7.85. One side effect of this is that the managed rise of the Chinese RMB against the dollar in recent years has led to a big improvement in spending power for mainlanders. Hong Kong banknotes are issued by three different banks, meaning the design on one side varies; there are even still coins and banknotes with the queen’s head on them, dating from pre-1997. They’re no longer produced and thus starting to disappear, but are still perfectly legitimate. You’re unlikely to find yourself passed a forged note.

ATMs are everywhere, including MTR stations. You’ll see a wide range of banks represented, but the important thing is that HSBC and Hang Seng have a joint network of ATMs called ETC; all other banks in Hong Kong are networked through JETCO machines, by far the most

common. There’s a fee of HKD15-30 if you use a different network; otherwise it’s free. They almost all take Visa, MasterCard and American Express for cash advances, too.

Hong Kong is moving fast towards being a cashless economy for anything other than the smallest shops. You can use your Octopus card for small purchases; your bank card will be an EPS card, meaning it can be used as a debit card; credit cards are accepted everywhere. People do still use cheques in Hong Kong, but they’re fading away over time. This is a city that accepts few hindrances in being allowed to take your money from you as efficiently as possible.

You can change money commission-free in your own bank, and there are also high street bureaux de change. As ever, you’ll almost certainly get the best rate by using your credit card in an ATM.

BELOW: Money changer in

Hong Kong



CosT of livingThere is no doubt

about it, Hong Kong is expensive -

especially compared to Mainland China.

There’s simply no getting around the fact that Hong Kong is an

expensive place to live. The main expense is rent, which is high by world standards and stratospheric compared to most of Asia. Even highly developed cities on the Chinese mainland like Shanghai and Beijing are much cheaper. Space is at a premium in Hong Kong and rental prices reflect this. Tiny flats will set you back well over HKD20,000 a month in most of the places you’ll want to live; and prices get much steeper as you move up in the world.

A study by human resource consul-tancy ECA found that Hong Kong de-mands the highest rents in the world, with a three-bedroom apartment in the city setting you back an average of HKD90,000. For The Peak, you’re looking at around HKD150,000 a month. Realistically, expect to spend at least HKD30,000-35,000 for a de-cent flat for two.

However, this assumes living on Hong Kong Island or Kowloon. You can live in less central areas for considerably less money – the trade-off, of course, is the commute. This is definitely a city where you will want your em-ployer to be providing housing; but more likely they’ll offer you a lump sum with housing included on top of an agreed salary and you’ll make the cost-benefit decisions yourself.

This is the case in any discussion of living in Hong Kong. What kind of life do you want to live? For the vast majority of expats, this life includes living centrally, eating out in decent restaurants, having nights out and generally enjoying life. If you have a family, it includes an apartment of a decent size or a location, which of-fers good amenities and some space. If you're active you'll want to golf, play tennis or any other range of

sports. You’ll want to regularly take taxis to get around, or employ a driv-er. All this is going to add up, as will the cost of food from Western-style supermarkets. If you have children, international schools are far from cheap – again, ideally your company will be picking up that tab or at least providing financial support.

There is a cheaper Hong Kong though. Remember there are hun-dreds of thousands of middle class people who aren’t making big bucks here. They’re eating in local restau-rants, using public transport, shop-ping and cooking for themselves. Essentially, it’s a lot cheaper to live a Chinese life than a Western one, but the majority of expats are only going to be in Hong Kong for a few years at most, and will want to take full advantage of all that's on offer in a city as vibrant and dynamic as Hong Kong.

Breaking things down a little – Inter-net, electricity and other utilities are reasonably priced. Transport is inex-pensive and comprehensive, and you don’t need a car the way you might in a Western city, though it may be convenient if you have children. Hiring a driver is expensive but not bankrupting. Hong Kong has great designer shops with prices to match, but you can also get clothes made for you with great value and excel-lent quality once you learn your way around. Jewelry, cosmetics and elec-tronics are excellent value, though beware of fakes. Fresh fruit and vegetables are cheap and eating out can be great value if you get to know your neighborhood joints.

In sum, prepare to spend more money for accommodation than you’re probably used to, and accept that fact that living the good life in Hong Kong will cost. But you’ll find a way to figure out how to make it work for you.

eaTing ouT and enTerTainMenT• Dinner for two mid-range

HKD400• Dinner for two high-end

HKD1,100• Glass of wine

HKD65• Pint of beer

HKD60• Set lunch (excl. wine)

HKD80-100• Starbucks large Frappuccino

HKD38• Movie ticket

HKD90• International theater/music

event HKD350-1000• Local theater/music event

HKD100-300

food• Imported frozen chicken

HKD40 • Imported beef 1 kg

HKD82• Coffee 250 g

HKD70-100• Eggs 1 dozen

HKD20• Fresh milk 1 liter

HKD29• Breakfast cereal 1 kg

HKD40-60• Pasta sauce

HKD40• Bag of washed salad leaves

HKD50-60

TransporTaTion• Taxi flag fall

HKD20• Taxi: Central to Stanley

HKD110• Taxi: Mid-Levels to Central

HKD40• Tram

HKD2• Star Ferry

HKD2.50• MTR:

HKD3-47.50• MTR (Admiralty to Tsim Sha

Tsui) HKD8.5

• Petrol/gas (per liter/unleaded)HKD20

aCCoMModaTion• 1-bedroom apartment Mid-

Levels (per month) HKD25,000-80,000

• 3-bedroom apartment Repulse Bay (per month) HKD40,000-300,000

• 4-bedroom apartment Happy Valley HKD70,000-150,000

• 4-bedroom apartment The Peak HKD150,000 -500,000

uTiliTies• Landline per month

HKD110• Broadband

HKD200• Mobile phone (1,000 min)

120• Mobile phone (3G)

HKD150• Water per year

HKD200• Gas per year

HKD2600• Electricity per year

HKD30,000

eduCaTion• Pre-school (half-day)

HKD40,000-80,00• International primary school

per year HKD60,000-160,000

• International secondary school per year HKD90,000-195,000

doMesTiC help• Full-time domestic helper (per

month, incl. food etc.) HKD5,000

healTh and wellness• General Practitioner

HKD300-500• Specialist

HKD1,000-1,500• Dentist (check-up)

HKD500• Physiotherapist

HKD600

Using Tao Bao to purchase imported goods is an effective way to cut costs. While the site is in Mandarin, there are a number of English intermediary websites that will help facilitate purchaseing from Tao Bao for a small fee.

priCe guide

Cost of livingCost of living


SOFT LANDING 151150 SOFT LANDING Getting connectedGetting connected

TOP CENTER: Online on the

escalator

They love their electronics in Hong

Kong, and people like to upgrade to

the latest version as soon as possible.

landline

• PCCW, 1000, www.pccw.com.hk

•HGC, 1220, www.hgc.com.hk•New World Telephone, 1239,

www.newworldtel.com• SmarTone-Vodafone, 2281

8888, www.smartone-vodafone.com

Mobile • 3, 2121 1228, www.three.

com.hk•CSL / 101, 2888 1010,

www.hkcsl.com•One2Free, 2512 3123,

www.one2free.hkcsl.com• PCCW Mobile, 1833 800,

www.pccwmobile.com

CoMMuniCaTion serviCe providers

geTTing ConneCTedIn Hong Kong, it’s not a question of whether you’re connected – it’s a question of whether you can ever escape being connected. Everyone has a mobile phone, and enough people are carrying multiple phones around or upgrading regularly. 3G – and now even 4G – services and generally blindingly fast Internet mean people watch TV and movies on their phones as a matter of course. Internet Cafés are actually harder and harder to find, since there’s no real need for them (except perhaps for teenagers gaming with their chums) with free Internet hotspots all around the city. Even if you’re wandering around Hong Kong without a smart phone or iPad, Pacific Coffee Company Cafés and some smaller chains almost always offer free computer use to customers.

It’s still worth setting up a landline, since local calls are free, including to Hong Kong mobiles. Line rental will cost you around HKD100 a month and the main providers are PCCW and HGC. Overseas calls won’t be

included, so you can either sign up for an IDD (International Direct Dial) package, which doesn’t necessarily have to be from the same provider, and can be on your mobile phone rather than landline – or use IDD pay-as-you-go cards (available in convenience stores). If you expect to be talking to friends or family overseas at least once a week, you may as well go for the package and save yourself the hassle of the cards. There’s a confusing number of IDD providers and packages, and unless you like doing quantum maths you may just want to go for the same people who do your landline for the convenience.

Mobile phone rates are excellent, due to a great deal of healthy competition. Handsets are all sold unlocked, even iPhones, so customers have complete freedom to choose their provider. However, you may find yourself overwhelmed by choice when you have to actually examine the wide range of options. The biggest operators are 3, CSL (branded as One2Free and 1010), PCCW, SmarTone and China Mobile. Basic packages will set you

back around HKD100 a month for something like 1,000 free minutes plus MMS and SMS services, and even when you upgrade to 3G services you should be able to find something with plenty of data allowances for under HKD200 a month. If you know exactly what you want – fewer free voice minutes, more free text messages, say – then you’ll be able to find a package that suits you just right. If you want to take your time making a decision when you first arrive, just get a cheap pay-as-you-go SIM card from a phone store or convenience store – there’ll be enough minutes on it to get you going, and you can add minutes with your credit card. This won’t set you back much more than HKD100 or so.

You’ll need a Hong Kong ID card to set up a mobile plan, but if you’re willing to pay a HKD3,000 deposit (returned to you when you get your ID card) then you can get around this. Once you have a mobile number, it’s essentially yours for life, since you can keep it even if you switch providers. Hong Kong uses a GSM network and coverage is excellent everywhere in the city, though it

can be patchy on outlying islands. You should be enjoying the peace and quiet if you’re out there for the weekend anyway.

The Internet scene is very similar, with plenty of competition (from many of the same companies) and broadband packages to choose from. Speeds are super fast, with 1 gigabyte per second and higher available, and an average of 10 megabytes, which is more than enough for most users. It’s exceedingly unlikely that your new home is not already set up for Internet use. You may want to select a combined cable TV and Internet package, if only to feel like you’re king of the digital universe. You should pay HKD200-300 a month and sign up for a year – monthly pay-as-you-go packages are not worth the premium. There are separate and combined home and mobile packages to get your head around.

The biggest providers are PCCW (again), I-Cable HGC and 3. PCCW also has thousands of free hotspots around the city, in convenience stores, Starbucks, shopping malls and the like. Hong Kong is not a place where you can expect to get off the grid.

posTalHong Kong also has an efficient postal service, Hongkong Post, with cheap next-day letter delivery and a courier service (CourierPost). You can send packages by air or over land and track deliveries online, and staff at most branches speak English. Their subsidiary SpeedPost deals with international express mail with high-tech tracking, and is the best bet for important documents. If you’re going to be regularly sending things abroad though, you’re probably best off taking advantage of the global reach of DHL, UPS or FedEx, which all have plenty of branches and drop-off points in Hong Kong.

Choosing between packages for mobile, Internet, cable TV, perhaps all bundled together – this can be quite the headache. We recommend finding something that makes sense to you and is competitive, rather than spending days looking for the absolute best deal. Ask a new friend what they use.

• SmarTone-Vodafone, 2880 2688, www.smartone-vodafone.com

•China Mobile, 2945 8888 www.hk.chinamobile.com

•New World, 2138 2138, www.newworldtel.com

inTerneT•Netvigator (PCCW), 1833

833, www.netvigator.com• I-Cable, 2112 1133

www.i-cable.com• 3, 3162 8888

www.threebb.com.hk•Hong Kong Broadband,

128 100, www.hkbn.net•New World Telecom, 1239,

www.newworldtel.com



Hong Kong's most lively (and often salacious)

newspapers are the Chinese-language

ones. There's plenty of stories about

local movie stars and pop princesses,

as well as cut-throat political tabloid

fare.

hong Kong's english Media landsCape

Getting connectedGetting connected

MediaHong Kong is a thriving, raucous media environment, with over 40 newspapers as well as magazines, TV and radio – everything from serious business news to paparazzi-driven celebrity rags. One glance at a local news agency will give you a sense of the sheer clamor of voices. Of course, the vast majority of it is in Chinese. For English-speakers, there’s less local content out there, but there’s still quality and you should be able to find what you need. Bear in mind that bookshops, foreign-oriented supermarkets and plenty of newsstands in the right areas carry a range of foreign papers and magazines – there’s no censorship in Hong Kong and you can read whatever you want, though you’ll pay more than you’re used to for the privilege.

If you want a range of English-language TV channels, sort yourself out with an international satellite package. Free TV is limited in Hong Kong, and most locals have pay TV from one of the competing providers and a wide range of channels. In terms of free-to-air, TVB has an English-language channel, and there’s also the ATV World channel.

The state provider RTHK often shows popular American shows in English, and their radio wing has two English-language channels: Radio 3 for news, debate and music, and Radio 4 for classical music and jazz. There are a couple of other private radio channels in English, playing mostly music.

The South China Morning Post is an excellent daily broadsheet newspaper dating from 1903 that publishes every day and does some fine investigative reporting. It manages a nice mix of international news while keeping a local feel, particularly through its range of sections through the week. Its website is via paid subscription. The other English-language paper is the business-oriented The Standard. In its favor, it’s free both in print and online; however, it’s not very good. Use it for a quick scan of the main stories, stick to the SCMP if you want more meat. You can also try the government-run China Daily from the Chinese mainland, if only to appreciate how lucky you are to have other options.

The monthly Time Out Hong Kong is probably your best bet for magazines; it sticks to the format familiar from other cities and does a good job keeping readers informed of the latest restaurants, bars and cultural events. Its main competitor is the weekly HK Magazine, which combines up-to-date listings and reviews with a cheeky editorial line. Things in Hong Kong move fast, and if you’re interested in keeping up with what’s happening you should definitely try to at least flick through both of these publications regularly. You should also check out CityLife, a bimonthly focused more on visitors than tourists. There are plenty of free listings and lifestyle magazines that you’ll find in coffee shops and bars.

There’s a clear crossover for websites, with all the magazines mentioned above having useful sites for listings and the latest events. Other good resources include The List, Open Rice, Word of Mouth Guide for foodies and Hip Hong Kong. For useful information as well as the fun stuff, try GovHK, the government website, the Hong Kong Tourism Board, Public Transport Enquiry Service and MTR Hong Kong. There’s a range of blogs, from the quirky to the dry – we suggest using Hong Kong Blogs Review to steer you towards the ones best.

Hong Kong apps have exploded in recent years, and there are too many good ones to list more than a handful here – most of the magazines have them now and you should find which ones work best for you. Explore Hong Kong has the best, most functional MTR map bar none. Discover Hong Kong has a City Walks app, and to complement it, try the Enjoy Hiking app, a great guide to the wide range of trails in Hong Kong, from family-friendly to hardcore hiking.

Magazines• South China Morning Post

(www.scmp.com)

• The Standard (www.thestandard.com.hk)

• Time Out Hong Kong (www.timeout.com.hk)

• HK Magazine (www.hk-magazine.com)

• CityLife (www.citylifehk.com)

Websites• www.thelist.com.hk

• www.openrice.com

• www.womguide.com

• www.hiphongkong.com

• www.gov.hk

• www.discoverhongkong.com

• http://hktransport.gov.hk

• www.mtr.com.hk

• www.hong-kong-blogs-review.com

Podcasts• Urbanatomy

• Sinica (through Pop-Up Chinese)

• ChinesePod

Apps• Explore Hong Kong

• Discover HK City Walks

• Enjoy Hiking

ABOVE: Hong Kong and the world

BELOW: News stand by the Star

Ferry

154 SOFT LANDING

pat essentials xe

Culture shock

RighT: The urban whirl

1. HoneYMoon PHase 2. negotiation PHase

Initially, the prospect of relocating to a new country and culture may seem exciting, daunting or frightening (or all three). Those feelings of

anticipation, however they may manifest, occur to some degree in everyone engaged in the relocation process, as they stem from the natural human reaction to significant changes in surroundings or environment. In thebroad sense, these feelings are referred to as ‘transition shock’, and the vast majority of us have to some extent experienced these feelings on a number of occasions when we had to adjust to a new environment. If you canrememberyourfirstdayofschool–thatwasmostlikelythefirsttimeyou had these feelings.

cUltUre sHocK

Your experience with international assignments and living abroad, as well as your cultural background, will significantly affect the degree to which you're affected by your relocation. Commonly known as culture shock, this variety of transition shock is related specifically to moving to – and living in – a new country that is significantly different from one’s place of origin. It is usually experienced in four phases:

As the name suggests, this phase is characterized by romantic feelings of wonderment at your new surroundings. The differences in culture, pace of life, food and people’s habits, as well as many aspects of your new location, offer new and interesting daily discoveries, and opportunities to compare those differences with the life you have left behind in your home country. As the name suggests, however, this phase is not permanent and will eventually end.

For most people, the honeymoon phase ends between two and four months after arrival. It is at this point when culture shock hits. This shock is most severe for those who are unaware that they are in a cycle of adjustment (those who didn’t read this article!) and thus it is important that you take measures to reduce the impact of the transition to phase two.

In this phase, the sense of wonderment has begun to wear off, usually due to a series of frustrating experiences. Experiences relating to the inability to communicate effectively across a language barrier are extremely frustrating and frequent when you have relocated to a country where your native language is not spoken. A feeling of helplessness develops from the inability to do simple tasks such as paying


SOFT LANDING 157156 SOFT LANDING Culture shockCulture shock

RighT: Space can be tight in Hong Kong.

bills and shopping without the assistance of a third party. For people who have worked very hard to earn their independence in life, this feeling can have a devastating impact, often resulting in mood swings and sometimes even depression.

The impact is often felt more acutely with trailing spouses, as they do not have the ready-made support network that many offices offer. During this phase a feeling of homesickness often occurs as issues relating to public hygiene, traffic safety and the type and quality of food become increasingly intolerable.

3. adjUstMent PHase

4. MasterY PHase

conclUsions

The adjustment phase of culture shock usually begins 6-12 months after relocation and is characterised by the coping mechanisms employed in reaction to the frustration and anxiety experienced in the negotiation phase. On average, about 30% of expatriates evolve into what can be termed ‘cosmopolitans’, people who have managed to blend aspects of local culture with their own and in doing so achieved a sense of balance in their life abroad. This balanced perspective allows cosmopolitans to relocate home or elsewhere and seamlessly integrate without experiencing the negotiation phase of culture shock, or at least not to the same extent as during their first relocation.

About 10% of expatriates become what can be called ‘adopters’. These are people who fully integrate into their host culture and largely leave their cultural identity behind. They often get married to a local and remain in their host country for the remainder of their lives.

About 60% of expatriates who relocate to distinctly foreign countries never accept the culture in which they are immersed, becoming what can be termed rejectors. These people typically retreat into isolation within their household and simply bide their time until the assignment is over. In most cases, rejectors see a return to their home country as the only escape from an unhappy and hostile environment. Interestingly, rejectors are also more likely to experience reverse culture shock, culture shock experienced upon return to the home country. This type of culture shock can be even

more difficult – and unexpected – than regular culture shock, often leaving those affected with even more difficult feelings to deal with.

In this phase, cosmopolitans and adopters are able to comfortably participate fully in their host culture. For expatriate assignees, progression to this stage means that a sense of normalcy in daily life has been achieved, often bringing with it a feeling of general satisfaction and wellbeing. Progression to the mastery phase also brings with it the increased likelihood that assignees will remain abroad pursuing other assignments and opportunities.

After reading this section you may be asking yourself “What have I gotten myself into? I have a 60% chance that I will be holed up in my apartment and unhappy or even depressed for years?” If you are, then take some comfort in the fact that simply by using this guide, you have significantly improved the chances that you’ll end up as a cosmopolitan rather than a rejector. To what degree the odds have been changed will vary markedly between individuals and the mental, emotional and administrative preparations undertaken prior to departure. Rest assured, however, expat essentials was created to tip the scales in your favor. Our mandate is to make it more likely that you will succeed and be happy than otherwise.

On the next page you’ll find some practical tips to avoid, or lessen the impact of culture shock.

the impaCt oF CuLture shoCK is oFten FeLt more

aCuteLy With traiLing spouses, as they Do not

haVe the reaDy-maDe support netWorK that

many oFFiCes oFFer

”Tips To avoid CulTure shoCK – or aT leasT lessen iTs iMpaCT

1. seek support groups. Every expat community will have community organizations which will include support groups for the newly arrived. Take advantage of these as soon as you arrive, even though you will most likely feel it isn’t necessary. The key is to prepare for phase two while still in phase one – the honeymoon phase. Talking to other expats and seeking their advice (excluding those who are clearly rejectors and constantly complain about all aspects of their life abroad) about taking care of the necessities of life has proven very effective for many assignees. Try not to be drawn into ongoing negative discussions, even though it may provide some relief in the short term. Focusing on the negative will only ensure you fail to see the positive when it appears.

2. get oriented. Take a guided tour of the city as a start and then branch out from your local area and get comfortable with your surroundings. Learn how to take public transit and call a taxi in the local language. This will significantly increase your sense of independence and lessen the feelings of isolation that often accompany the negotiation phase of culture shock. You will also discover new and interesting places that in many cases will substitute for things you left behind at home.

3. Take a language course. Overcoming the communication barrier is critical to ensuring a short stay in phase 2. You don’t need to become fluent, but understanding how to give directions to taxi drivers, order food at a restaurant, buy goods at the market and use other basic phrases and answers will be extremely helpful. Don’t be shy, as locals are always happy when foreigners put the effort in to learn a bit of the language. You may even find that taxi drivers and your local restaurateur are excellent teachers.

4. start a journal. Journals are always helpful in helping people admit the truth to themselves about how they are feeling. For some reason it is simply easier to put it on paper than say it out loud. This process will help you identify any issues you’re having with your relocation and daily life, but remember to go back and read what you wrote from time to time, to see if you’ve taken care of all those little things that were on your mind.


SOFT LANDING 159158 SOFT LANDING Hotels

The epitome of luxury, this is Hong Kong’s tallest hotel and is extraordinarily plush – think chandeliers, forests of flowers, carpets you sink into and even what may be the largest landscape painting in the world in the 17-floor atrium. Guest rooms go for a tasteful Western-Asian look and there are no compromised views: your choice is the harbor or The Peak. There’s a health club and spa, seven restaurants, in-room business facilities and all entertainment options, plus concierge and babysitting. As one of the three hotels (see the Conrad and the Marriott below) above the Pacific Place shopping and entertainment complex, you’re right in the middle of the city.

Pacific Place, Supreme Court Road, Centralea 44 p.222, A3

2877 3838www.shangri-la.com/island

Hotels

Finding reliable reviews online

can be a difficult process, given

that many reviews are generated by

hotels anonymously promoting

themselves or criticizing others.

You can trust that you won’t

be disappointed with our

recommendations.

This icon identifies the location of the listing in the expat atlas, our companion to expat

essentials. It is followed by the map point number, the page on which the point can be found in the atlas and then the coordinates of the point on the map.

using our Map lisTings

hoTels

Hong Kong has some of the best hotels in the world, and

some of the most expensive. With Hong Kong’s premium on space being what it is, even budget hotels are expensive. Also, there aren’t always enough rooms to go around, especially around holidays and when convention season is in full swing in April and May. The increasing flow of mainland tourists, many looking for a good deal, is increasing demand for budget but quality rooms, but also making it even more of a seller’s market. You’ll also find rooms smaller than you may be used to, unless you’re staying in a high-end place. If your company is putting you up in a hotel for a few days, they’ll probably have a good deal for a larger room in a decent place. Everybody agrees though, don’t pay the rack rate: book online or investigate websites like Tripfinder (www.tripfinder.com) or Lastminute (www.lastiminute.com) to get the real rates.

For most places, view rather than size is the key element. “Harbor views” are the magic words that add both dollars and charm to any room, but you should investigate exactly what a ‘partial’ or ‘side’ view means exactly. Ask to be on the highest floor available for your category of room. If you’re high-end, everything comes included, but even in good hotels with excellent facilities, don’t assume that things like broadband are included. Hong Kong hotels are famous for wringing every last dollar out of customers, mostly to

Hong Kong island

ea

encourage them to trade up to better rooms with more included, or to sign up for internal packages offering, for example, Internet plus spa and breakfast for a set daily fee.

Tsim Sha Tsui in Kowloon is the prime hotel area, but there are plenty of options in Central, Causeway Bay and other parts of Hong Kong Island as well, at various price points. If you’re paying yourself and cost is a concern, the New Territories offer better value, particularly in Sha Tin, and many expats like to stay in a serene Outlying Islands setting for a weekend away from the city, but on the basis that your hotel stay is probably part of a fact-finding or house-hunting trip, we’ve concentrated on Hong Kong Island and Kowloon below.

island sHangri-la Hong Kong

The best hotel in the world? The debate rages. You won’t be disappointed in any case, with a staff of hundreds all impeccably helpful and English-speaking, plush yet tasteful surroundings and rooms (the building’s renovation a few years ago has been greeted with much praise), all the modern facilities you can dream of and a knack for small details such as binoculars in rooms facing the harbor. It’s a place for movers and shakers and you can rub shoulders with them in the Mandarin Grill come dinner time. The Captain’s Bar and Chinnery are other fabled places to see and be seen. There’s a total of four restaurants and three bars, health club and pool and a great in-room entertainment suite, plus concierge and babysitting.

5 Connaught Road, Centralea 44 p.222, A3

2522 0011www.mandarinoriental.com/

hongkong

Mandarin oriental Hong Kong Right next to the Convention Centre,

they literally pushed out the boat in designing this hotel, which aims to match a classic ocean liner and boasts rather incredible art deco stylings and an impressive sense of grandeur. Plush rooms with all the media options, poolside restaurant, residential spa – you can live a life of distinct comfort here. The beautiful Chinese restaurant in the lobby is a definite plus, too. There are six restaurants and two bars, with a health club, a pool and even a running track to work off those meals. There’s also a kids’ pool and a playground, making it an excellent family option. Concierge service and babysitting also available.

1 Harbour Road, Wan Chaiea 44 p.222, A3

2588 1234www.hongkong.grand.hyatt.com

grand HYatt Hong Kong

More high-end than the average Marriott, this is another of the Pacific Place-situated hotels, meaning it’s got all its shopping and dining resources right beneath. However, you may not want to leave the hotel itself, with a design cleverly put together to maximize views, a swimming pool with restaurant, a wine bar and even a high-end tea house. There are five restaurants in total, rooms have elaborate electronic suites including MP3 player and broadband and service is as excellent as you’d expect.

1Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Centralea 44 p.222, A3

2810 8366www.jwmarriotthongkong.com

jW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong

There are many excellent hotels that are not in our listings. Our goal is to make the choice easy for you.

BELOW: View from the Grand Hyatt Hong KongBOTTOM: Room at the Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong


Hotels SOFT LANDING 161

If you prefer a soft bed, be aware that

throughout Asia they can be hard

to find outside of five-star hotels. This is primarily because

locals prefer a stiffer mattress.

TOP: Room at Lanson

Place Hotel

Exclusive, high-end hotel above Pacific Place, and a superb hotel with an ambiance that manages to combine a classic hotel atmosphere with a modern layout and a sense of personality in the heart of Hong Kong. Facilities are top-notch, with one of Hong Kong’s best Italian restaurants among the four dining options, a swimming pool, an excellent health club and spa, great views if you have a harbor view room and free Wi-Fi throughout the hotel. Plus there’s concierge service and babysitting available.

Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Central ea 44 p.222, A3

2521 3838www.conradhotels.com

conrad Hong Kong

Claiming to be Asia’s first boutique hotel (Shanghai now has a JIA too – ‘jia’ is Mandarin for ‘home’), this achingly hip Philippe Starck-designed destination is all about design, from staff uniforms to chairs. They aim to cater to a discerning clientele, and as part of this hotel guests get to be temporary members of Kee, a self-styled private members’ club that’s extremely pleasant though not particularly exclusive, and get special treatment in trendy bars, depending on what’s flavor of the month. Rooms are small but beautiful, and there’s a lounge and restaurant, plus free use of a nearby health club. Broadband included, and try the sundeck on a quiet afternoon.

11-5 Irving Street, Causeway Bayea 44 p.222, A3

3196 9000www.jiahongkong.com

jia Hong Kong

This small but tasteful and friendly place puts you down the road from the Causeway Bay shopping Mecca and offers rooms with a little more space than usual. Stocked kitchenettes and a free DVD library means you can make it more homey than most hotels, and if you’re lucky they even offer free use of a cell phone during your stay. There’s a bar and a small gym, but really you’re staying here for the pleasant atmosphere and good location.

133 Leighton Road, Causeway Bayea 44 p.222, A3

3477 6888www.lansonplace.com

lanson Place Hotel

A more workaday option than many of the hotels above, and you’re back to the typical Hong Kong tiny room, but you’ll spend far less money and still get a well-run and friendly place with free broadband and a convenient Causeway Bay location. Small but pleasant bar with great views over Victoria Park. There’s a suite option with kitchen facilities for longer stays.

8 Shelter Street, Causeway Bayea 44 p.222, A3

2127 8888

rosedale on tHe ParK

Across the road from the Peninsula and its main competitor for the Kowloon crown, this classy place is actually on the waterfront and boasts harbor views, five first-rate restaurants, fitness (including free tai chi and yoga) and spa facilities (boasting a full day treatment taken in private outdoor cabanas over looking Victoria Harbour) and endless shopping options nearby. Concierge and babysitting services, too.

18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloonea 44 p.222, A3

2721 1211www.hongkong-ic.

intercontinental.com

KoWloonThe name is deceptive – it’s not particularly near Hong Kong’s famous F&B strip – but it’s worth considering this smaller, trendy but comfortable and friendly place. Don’t expect to be swinging any cats in the rooms (it’s worth upgrading to Deluxe for better space and views) but they’re all interesting, with quirky details and real thought put into the design, and you’re in a slightly more local area within walking distance of Mid-Levels, making it a great base for getting to know this part of the city. Rooms have straightforward facilities and Internet costs extra; there’s a lounge and restaurant plus babysitting services.

3 Kau U Fong, Centralea 44 p.222, A3

3650 0000www.lankwaifonghotel.com.hk

lan KWai Fong Hotel

Another option for people watching their budget, but still looking for something nice. Small rooms with basic facilities (you’ll pay extra for Internet) are offset by friendly, personalized service and a fun location not far from both the Wan Chai nightlife and the Convention Centre. Their main claim to fame is their nifty women’s floor with yoga mats, flowers and generally pleasant-smelling atmosphere, but men will enjoy their stay here, too. There’s a restaurant and guests can use a nearby health club for free.

41 Fleming Road, Wan Chaiea 44 p.222, A3

3607 2288www.thefleming.com

tHe FleMingA huge hotel (over 700 rooms) with great harbor views through giant windows, this is a big place for business travelers and offers the usual Shangri-La recipe of opulent surroundings and careful attention to customer care – as well as great food. Four restaurants and a tapas bar, plus exercise room, pool, DVD library and high-tech in-room facilities ensure you’ll feel well-treated. A special feature is their “technology butler.” They also offer concierge service and babysitting.

64 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui East, Kowloonea 44 p.222, A3

2721 2111www.shangri-la.com/kowloon

intercontinental Hong Kong

KoWloon sHangri-la

BELOW: Cruise ship docked in Kowloon

162 SOFT LANDING Hotels

BELOW: The Peninsula Hotel

The city’s most celebrated hotel, not least for its daily afternoon tea. The rooms (with amazing views) belie Hong Kong’s cramped spaces, the service is unparalleled and the whole place exudes elegance and history. It boasts six excellent restaurants, a health club and spa, the latest in-room entertainment, a music room with a grand piano, as well as concierge services and babysitting. It also has a helipad for high rollers.

Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloonea 44 p.222, A3

2920 2888www.peninsula.com

tHe PeninsUla Hong Kong

Another hotel compensating for small room size by featuring innovative design, the Mira is innovative and bold in both outlook and color scheme, making the environment extremely pleasant, and designer chairs and free mobile phones add to the appeal. There’s free Internet plus three restaurants and a bar, as well as a health club and pool. Kowloon Park is across the road.

118-130 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloonea 44 p.222, A3

2368 1111www.themirahotel.com

tHe Mira Hong Kong

Another in the city’s burgeoning range of boutique hotels, the rooms are wilfully unusual, particularly the suites, and certainly a far cry from bland – they are described as "fashioned from Salvador Dali's fertile imagination." Design is big on trompe l’oeil features, but the small rooms are still comfortable and (for most people) fun. They have free Wi-Fi, plus a restaurant, a bar and a health club.

39 Kimberly Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloonea 44 p.222, A3

3763 8888www.theluxemanor.com

A great option for people who don’t want to spend big (at least by Hong Kong standards), but still want a classy place. The hotel has a pool, a well-regarded Cantonese restaurant and two other eateries, with small but well-appointed rooms (note there’s an extra fee for Internet). For the environmentally conscious, they’re also big on sustainability. Free tours of local markets add to the charm.

380 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloonea 44 p.222, A3

2782 1818www.hongkong.eatonhotels.com

lUxe Manor

eaton Hotel

http://www.expatessentials.net


SOFT LANDING 165

plush facilities than higher-end places, but is fully equipped for business as well as daily life, with a business center, mail services and a 24-hour concierge, as well as all the usual amenities. Monthly rates are HKD32,000-42,000. There’s a branch with smaller rooms and slightly cheaper rates in Tsim Sha Tsui.

97A Wellington Street, Centralea 44 p.222, A3

2846 5777www.xin.com.hk

164 SOFT LANDING Serviced apartmentsServiced apartments

BELOW: HarbourView

Place BOTTOM: Knight on Wyndham

serviCed aparTMenTsServiced apartments are an attractive option for people who expect to be living in Hong Kong for a few weeks before moving into proper accommodation, especially for families. There’s more space and independence than hotels offer, cheaper rates when you pay on a monthly basis and it’s a pleasant and often luxurious transition from your old home city to your new one. They’ll also be fully furnished, including cooking utensils, dishtowels, corkscrews and the like, for that home-from-home feel. Many people particularly appreciate being able to cook for themselves when

the spirit moves them – and also that they don’t have to clean the place, since this is where the ‘serviced’ part comes in.

For the kind of places you’ll want to be staying in, rates start at about HKD40,000 per month and rise fast as you move up in the world. Note that you’ll probably have to pay one month’s deposit as well. Staff will speak English and service will usually be very good, plus the nicest places will have pools, gyms and community activities. Hong Kong has a range of excellent options; your company may have a relationship with a specific serviced apartment, otherwise places to look include the South China Morning Post and HK Magazine, as well as the following websites:

www.hongkong.servicedapartments.com.hk

www.gohome.com.hk

http://hongkong.asiaxpat.com/property/serviced.asp

Hong Kong island

Located right in the thick of things near Soho and Lan Kwai Fong, this comfortable, modern serviced apartment complex (more suitable for couples than families) prides itself on its interesting décor behind a discreet exterior, offering all the usual mod cons – fully-furnished kitchen, broadband, international TV and a DVD library – as well as the quirkier items like Nintendo Wii and a karaoke lounge where you can meet your neighbors. Maid service and concierge are included of course, and staff can organize limousines and the like. Monthly rent starts around HKD35,000.

41 Wyndham Street, Centralea 44 p.222, A3

2536 0808www.knightonwyndham.com

KnigHt on WYndHaM

Luxury apartments on the 50th-70th floor of the International Commerce Centre, with the amazing harbor views the name suggests. Rooms are impeccably laid out and come in various sizes, none of them cheap – but a lot better value than staying in the hotel at a nightly rate. LCD TVs, broadband, DVD player and all the usual mod cons, as well as a health club, restaurants, discounts in the high-end shopping mall beneath and Hong Kong’s highest indoor observation deck on the 100th floor. A great place to be wowed by Hong Kong on first arrival. Monthly rates start around HKD40,000 and head north of HKD100,000 very quickly.

1 Austin Road West, Kowloonea 44 p.222, A3

3718 8000www.harbourviewplace.com

tHe HarboUrVieW Place @ icc MegaloPolis

Plush, exclusive apartments in a stunning elliptical tower overlooking the race course in Happy Valley, convenient for Causeway Bay and a very pleasant environment for an afternoon stroll. The swimming pool is a prime feature, and rooms are fully equipped with broadband, satellite TV and the like, with kitchenettes or kitchens depending on size of room. Monthly rental goes from about HKD40,000 up to HKD75,000.

5-7 Blue Pool Road, Happy Valleyea 44 p.222, A3

2537 0026www.ellipsis.com.hk

tHe elliPsis serViced aPartMents

A relatively affordable option in a great location in the middle of Central, not far from Soho, residents can get discounts from a range of local restaurants and bars by showing their key card. It has less

Yin serViced aPartMents

High-end Kowloon living, with 499 apartments across 14 floors in the tony Harbour City development. Amazing views, with features including parking, private lift, sophisticated home theater set-up, broadband, marble bathrooms and air filtration systems. Discounts at Harbour City’s shops and restaurants, and full access to the Pacific Club, offering tennis, pool, driving range, spa and dining options. Rates go from HKD40,000 for a studio to – gulp – all the way to HKD170,000 for penthouse luxury.

Harbour City, Canton Road, Kowloonea 44 p.222, A3

2119 3000www.gatewayapartments.com.hk

gateWaY and WaterFront aPartMents

KoWloon

BELOW: The Ellipsis Serviced Apartments

Serviced apartments are a great option when an assignee arrives weeks or months ahead of their family.

pat essentials xe

166 SOFT LANDING Serviced offices

serviCed offiCes

If you are responsible for the often arduous task of opening your

company's office in Hong Kong, you will probably be looking at a serviced office – at least initially – as your base of operations. Though lease rates are generally higher for serviced offices than an equivalent normal office in Hong Kong, there are a number of significant benefits that many find outweigh the added costs. The first is that serviced offices are usually turnkey. Reception services, office cleaning services, IT support and maintenance, office furniture, air conditioning, electricity, lighting, Internet connectivity, telecom connections and meeting and conference rooms are usually all included. In addition, short-tern leases are usually available and top end serviced offices often come with a prestigious address.

One of the most well-known in-ternational providers of serviced office space, Servcorp prides itself in its customer service. They claim to take a personal interest in all of their clients' businesses. They also of-fers virtual offices, and can help you through the process of registering your business in Hong Kong.

Two International Finance Centre, 8 Finance Street, Centralea 44 p.222, A3

2251 1888

Suite 1202, Level 12, 1 Peking Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloonea 44 p.222, A3

3980 9300

Suite 901, Level 9, The Hong Kong Club Building, 3A Chater Road, Centralea 44 p.222, A3

3125 7500www.servcorp.com.hk

Founded by English entrepreneur Mark Dixon in 1989, Regus now op-erates more than 1100 business cent-ers worldwide, making it the larg-est company of its type. Check their website for more locations.

6/F, 12/F & 15/F, 100 QRC, 100 Queen's Road, Centralea 44 p.222, A3

3180 9388

20/F, One International Finance Centre, 1 Harbour View Streetea 44 p.222, A3

3669 8000

62/F & 66/F, The Centre, 99 Queen's Road, Centralea 44 p.222, A3

3965 3333

12/F, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Road West, Kowloonea 44 p.222, A3

3669 8333www.regus.hk

Asia's fastest growing serviced office provider is now Hong Kong's largest – and it's still expanding. Their top-quality offices are unbranded and high-tech, offering a wide array of services. They have offices in virtually every corner of the city; check their website for more locations.

16-17/F, Aon China Building,29 Queen's Road Central, Centralea 44 p.222, A3

3796 7188

9-10/F, Central Building,1-3 Pedder Street, Centralea 44 p.222, A3

3796 7188

12/F, China Minmetals Tower,79 Chatham Road South, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloonea 44 p.222, A3

3796 7188www.compassoffices.com

serVcorP

regUs

coMPass oFFices

The best serviced offices often offer

much more than their listed services.

Be open about your specific needs during your search

and you'll find some will go the extra

mile.

http://www.saffron-marina.com

Finding housing SOFT LANDING 169

pat essentials xe

Finding HoUsing

iF you’re thinKing about Commuting into the

City From the suburbs, try it out at rush hour, When traFFiC is snarLeD anD subWays anD buses

eXtremeLy CroWDeD

”

If you’re like the majority of foreigners heading to Hong Kong, you didn’t come here to live in the middle of nowhere – you want to be where the actionis.Thismeansthatthefirstthingtobearinmindaboutlivinghereis that you’ll almost certainly be living in an apartment, and possibly not that big an apartment either. This is a city where space is at a premium, and premium-priced, and if you’re on Hong Kong Island or Kowloon, even in a high-end apartment you’re unlikely to be anywhere huge. What you get back in return is convenience and a huge range of dining, drinking and entertainment options in the neighborhood.

That said, if your company is footing the bill and willing to make sure you’re living comfortably, especially if you have a family, there are more spacious (and more expensive) options on Hong Kong Island’s south coast seaside communities, in Kowloon Tong and – if you’re really living the high life – on The Peak. For the vast majority, though, it’s a similar choice to that in any other metropolis: proximity to city center workplace and all the benefits of urban living, or more space and better value with a daily commute, perhaps from the New Territories. Another option is heading out to the Outlying Islands or the more rural parts of the New Territories, where you can get a decent amount of square footage for far cheaper rents, as well as a quiet life – but you’ll be well off the beaten track. While Hong Kong’s public transport is so good that you’ll certainly be able to commute, and perhaps like the idea of a ferry trip every day, you may not find it that practical if you have kids heading to school or like to regularly go out on the town. It’s a different kind of life out there. See our Neighborhood Sections to get a better idea of which area of the city is the right one for you.

When choosing an area to call home, there’s one factor that you happily don’t have to bear in mind: safety is simply not an issue. Hong Kong is an incredibly safe city in terms of violent crime, and you can be out and about any time of day or night without anything to worry about – a particular boon for women who are used to being careful about walking home alone or taking taxis late at night in a Western city. Kids can also roam freely. In part this is because much of the city is so densely populated that it’s pretty hard to find yourself

Highcliff and The Summit luxury apartments in Happy Valley

Finding housing SOFT LANDING 171170 Finding housingSOFT LANDING


alone on a dark street at any hour of day or night; but mostly it’s a cultural thing, and something to be admired and thankful for.

Apartments at any rent level in Hong Kong usually come furnished including electronics like TV and DVD player, and at the higher end should have cable or satellite already set up, and you can certainly talk to the landlord about replacing or adding furniture before you move in – the higher the rent, the more amicable he’s likely to be about this. Landlords hold all the cards in the Hong Kong market, which means contracts are usually for two years and can’t be broken until you’ve been there at least one year, so take your time looking around before pulling the trigger. Some people try to negotiate a break clause to give them a chance to get out after a couple of months if problems emerge.

Note that apartment buildings have management fees, and you should clarify with the landlord whether you’ll have to pay them on top of the rent or they’re already included – most contracts are inclusive. Deposit is usually

two months’ rent. Landlords have a pretty bad reputation in Hong Kong, and you should certainly make sure you understand every clause in your contract, which they are unlikely to be flexible about. You’re unlikely to be straight-up cheated, but might be disappointed with their attitude if problems come up that aren't specifically covered in your contract. Of course, there are plenty of decent, helpful landlords too, like anywhere else.

You’re best to use an agent, who will show you around for free but take one month’s rent as commission once you sign a rental contract. There are high-end agents specializing in expats, and your company will probably have an arrangement with one of them already. If you’re looking independently, your best bet is probably to figure out the area you want to live in and then approach a range of agents in the area. Expect to be whisked around all day once they have your number; it’s a cut-throat business and they fight to earn their pay. If you want to go it solo, www.gohome.com.hk should be your starting point; other options are

the South China Morning Post, HK Magazine both print and online, and Craig’s List.

Assuming you won’t be at the low end of the rental scale with tiny kitchens and bathrooms and one bedroom, normal living in places like Mid-Levels means you’re looking at flats with two bedrooms, separate kitchen and usually a combined living and dining room. There may also be a tiny maid’s quarters, or just a maid’s bathroom space. Storage space can be quite ingenious, and you may find yourself discovering secret drawers under beds or hidden alcoves after moving in. If you’re using an agent, they’ll speak English, and often the landlord will speak enough for negotiation purposes anyway.

Life is considerably more comfortable in Hong Kong’s luxury apartments, where you’ve got more, bigger rooms and a chance of getting somewhere with a great view and there’s a host of facilities like swimming pool, gym, concierge service and the like. Depending how high on the hog you go, you can end up in a little community of its own and escape the big city outside your walls.

You can rent a house in Hong Kong, and in fact there are a fair few on the market – then again, this is because the rents are so astronomical due to so much space being allocated compared to the average home. House essentially means luxury in any case, and if your company really wants to keep you sweet you’ll live extremely well, probably in Kowloon Tong or the southern coast of Hong Kong Island. An increasingly popular option is the townhouse, generally in the New Territories or Outlying Islands, generally narrow multi-floor terraced houses that aim to hit the sweet spot between ruinously expensive house and cramped apartment.

using our neighborhoods seCTion

Our Neighborhoods section is designed to help you choose the area of Hong Kong in which to live that best suits your main priorities. Given the high level of diversity among assignees relocating to Hong Kong, this is no easy task and thus requires us to provide this caveat regarding our listings, as at first glance they can be misleading to the uninitiated.

Our listings in this section predominantly include expat-specific services which are used on a daily or regular basis, such as food shopping, fitness and recreation and schools. They also include health services, as many newly-arrived expats take comfort in knowing that quality health care is close at hand. We also include a selection of Western restaurants and cafés from our Eating and Drinking section, while also adding some that are not included in that section in order to impress upon readers that all expat areas of Hong Kong are adequately covered in this regard. We want to be careful to qualify that, aside from education, our listings for expat-specific services are not comprehensive but rather a selection of the most popular and most important. To be comprehensive would mean expat essentials would read more like War and Peace.

To most effectively use our Neighborhoods section, understand that an apparent deficiency of a particular neighborhood in one aspect, such as health care or schools, is most often covered by an adjacent neighborhood. If commute times are involved, the description of each neighborhood should provide enough information for you to make an informed decision. A good rule of thumb to keep in mind when assessing each neighborhood is that Hong Kong is not a very big place; if you don't have everything you need within walking distance, you'll still find that you are never far away from the best the city has to offer.

LanDLorDs haVe a pretty baD reputation in hong Kong... maKe sure you

unDerstanD eVery CLause in your ContraCt

”Luxury

apartment in Kowloon

SOFT LANDING 173Mid-Levels

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The fact that those who can’t live on The Peak usually live in Mid-Levels shouldn’t make this highly desirable

area sound like second best. It’s not quite as high-end and exclusive, both physically and socially, as The Peak, but it’s much more affordable and still a very sought-after place to live.

For a start, there’s the location – within throwing distance of Central, and therefore highly accessible for the rest of city. You really can’t live much more centrally than this – at least not in a family-friendly, primarily residential area. There’s also its meandering streets, high-end housing developments and quality local services. Its lack of major roads and slightly elevated location make it relatively unpolluted by Hong Kong’s admittedly not too exacting standards, and quieter and more pleasant to walk around than most residential areas of Hong Kong Island. The biggest downside? There’s not exactly a lot of green space within the district itself; but, this being compact Hong Kong, greenery is only ever minutes away, with several parks at the periphery.

It’s sometimes difficult to pin down what Mid-Levels is. As the name suggests, it’s defined as much by what it isn’t – the place between The Peak and Central, part of the north- and north-east-facing slope of Mount Austin – as what it is. (Strictly speaking, only the center of it is actually adjacent to Central, just up the hill; the western end of Mid-Levels is up the same hill from Sheung Wan, and the eastern end from Admiralty.) Fortunately, what it is turns out for the most part to be very pleasant. There are many attractive residential options including 39 Conduit Road, where in 2009 an apartment was sold for HKD439 million (USD56.5 million – USD9,200 per square foot, the most expensive in the world). It’s fairly typical that the apartment in question was described as being on the 68th floor… of a 46-floor building. Hong Kong property developers frequently miss out any number containing a four – unlucky in Chinese culture – in their developments, and sometimes various permutations of 13 too for good measure. They must be hugely superstitious, because the only other explanation is that they’re trying to mislead prospective customers into thinking they’re getting a more prestigious address than they really are, and that couldn’t be true.

Mid-leVels

LEFT: Mid-Levels restaurants

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SOFT LANDING 175

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174 SOFT LANDING Mid-LevelsMid-Levels

It can be difficult to define exactly where Mid-Levels starts and ends. It’s above Central on the hill, and below The Peak, roughly between Conduit Road and a road that changes name several times along its route, from Bonham Road to Caine Road to Upper Albert Road to Kennedy Road. But the district very much runs into Central, and also into the nightlife-oriented Soho and up-and-coming Sheung Wan, part traditional and part Central’s western adjunct. Neither is it quite clear where Mid-Levels segues into Western district. It also abuts the Admiralty business district, an adjunct of Central, to the north-east. Add in some interesting estate-agent-speak in the form of alleged places like “Mid-Levels East” – usually actually far away in places like Tai Hang, in the hills behind Causeway Bay and Happy Valley (see Happy Valley entry). In other words, it’s a pretty amorphous district, difficult to define. Mid-Levels, though, is more a state of mind – it’s strongly associated in Hong Kong minds with expats, and also with wealth and exclusivity. Along with towns on the south side of Hong Kong Island such as Repulse Bay and Stanley, this is the quartier of choice for Hong Kong’s wealthy, apart from the very tiny percentage who can afford to live on The Peak. Where the south side is very family-oriented, Mid-Levels attracts a mixed crowd of families and young professionals, with the latter dominating the trendy, Soho-adjoining lower streets which are only a short walk away.

Sheung Wan, and to a lesser extent Soho and Mid-Levels, also combine elements of traditional Chinese life with modern developments and amenities, with mom-and-pop printers and shops selling traditional medicine, for example, lying cheek-by-jowl with swanky boutiques and bars.

The spine of Mid-Levels is the Central Mid-Levels escalators, commonly referred to simply as the escalator, and actually a series of escalators and travelators stretching over 800 hilly meters between Des Voeux Road in Central and Conduit Road, at the very top of Mid-Levels – a climb of 135 meters. As well as being lined with shops, bars and restaurants, the escalator, which travels downwards in the morning to help Mid-Levels commuters and upwards for the rest of the day, provides the quickest and most direct method of transport around Mid-Levels’ steep streets.

Walking tracks in the west and central areas of

Mid-Levels lead to the Pok Fu Lam and

Peak countryside parks.

medical or dental practitioners, but never fear: surrounding areas like Central and Sheung Wan are stuffed full of choices.

Mid-Levels’ location is just about as convenient as it gets. Depending on where you are, Central is a matter of either minutes or seconds away, even on foot, while The Peak is just up the hill – although there aren’t quite so many day-to-day reasons to go there. Admiralty is just around the corner, Western district right next door, and everywhere else on Hong Kong island is easily accessible. And of course the Central Mid-Levels escalators make getting to lots of places on foot quite a bit easier.

The major absence is a station on Hong Kong’s MTR subway system, with the nearest down the hill in Central and Sheung Wan. Neither does Mid-Levels have many major roads – that’s one of its charms, especially given its inner-city location. Garden Road and Cotton Tree Drive flank it to the south-east, and a lot of road journeys to Mid-Levels are forced to take a circuitous route along them; residential streets in Mid-Levels tend to be perpendicular to them, running south-east to north-west, and getting up and down the hill by road can take longer than it feels like it ought to. With the lack of trains, however, people living in Mid-Levels who don’t have their own private transport will find themselves forced to rely on the roads, using either Hong Kong’s fleet of readily available taxis, or the plentiful bus services that visit the area. Among the latter are the 3B from Pokfield Road to Central, the 12 from Central Pier to Robinson Road, the 12A from MacDonnell Road to Admiralty, the 12M from Admiralty to Park Road, the 13 from Central to Kotewall Road, the 3 from Pokfield Road to North Point, the 23A from Robinson Road to Lai Tak Tsuen and the 23B from Robinson Road to Braemar Hill.

TOP CENTER: Mid-Levels escalator

Mid-Levels is probably the most popular area for expatriates in Hong Kong.

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Mid-Levels is extremely well served for medical options. The Canossa Hospital, a non-profit, private hospital run by Roman Catholic charity Caritas, is on the corner of Old Peak Road and Robinson Road. The same organization runs a medical center and dental clinic on Caine Road. Hong Kong Central Hospital and Tung Wah Hospital are just down the hill in Central and Sheung Wan respectively, and the Matilda International Hospital just up it on The Peak; even the public Queen Mary Hospital isn’t that far away, in Pok Fu Lam. Apart from Caritas, the area isn’t replete with

The world-renowned University of Hong Kong, which regularly tops tables of Asia’s best institutions of higher education, has its main campus at the western end of Mid-Levels.

Island School, a secondary school that is part of Hong Kong’s international-standard English Schools Foundation, is on Borrett Road. There are also plenty of schools with religious backgrounds: the Christian secondary St Paul’s Co-educational College is on MacDonnell Road; St Joseph’s College, a Catholic boys’ secondary school, is on Kennedy Road; St Margaret’s Girls’ College Hong Kong, a Catholic girls’ secondary school, is on Caine Road; and Carmel School of Hong Kong, a Jewish international elementary school, is on Borrett Road and Robinson Road. Also for younger children are the Woodland Mid-Levels Montessori Pre-School, on Caine Road, and Glenealy School, an ESF primary, while there’s another renowned secondary not far away in Sai Ying Pun, in the shape of King’s College.


176 SOFT LANDING

Mid-Levels itself has a few restaurants on Caine Road and Robinson Road, and several lining the escalator, but there are a whole lot more in nearby Soho, which more or less merges into Mid-Levels. Soho gets its name because it lies to the south of Hollywood Road, and for many years Hong Kong’s Democratic Party fought a mildly farcical campaign to get its name changed to the magnificently unimaginative Staunton/Elgin Street Themed Dining Area, because of the supposed sleazy associations of its existing name. Fortunately the old name has stuck, and the area, just about Hong Kong’s swishest nightlife spot, is full of restaurants serving just about every cuisine on earth to a generally pretty high standard, albeit at prices inflated by the area’s notoriously sky-high commercial rents. The area also hosts a plethora of bars, quite a few nightclubs and even one of Asia’s few comedy clubs. The many eateries, bars and other night spots of Central are also within spitting distance, and nothing on Hong Kong Island can’t be reached via a fairly painless taxi ride.

Hong Kong Zoological and Botanical Gardens, filled with plants, birds and larger species, and Hong Kong Park, as concreted in places as most of the city’s parks but with some very pleasant corners and containing the Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware, sit close to each other at the edge of the district. Head up the hill from Conduit Road at the very top of Mid-Levels, and you immediately come to

the plentiful green expanses of Pok Fu Lam Country Park, surrounding the residential areas of The Peak. At the north-western edge of it lies Lung Fu Shan Country Park, while the millionaires row of Bowen Road, which runs out of Mid-Levels to the east, also provides a charmingly leafy environment.

Neighboring Central is home to an awful lot of Hong Kong’s cultural life, and plays host to venues including the Hong Kong Fringe Club and Hong Kong City Hall, with a cinema in the International Finance Centre shopping mall. Within Mid-Levels itself, there’s the Hong Kong Visual Arts Centre on Kennedy Road, The University of Hong Kong Museum and Art Gallery at the western end of the district and the Dr Sun Yat-sen Museum in Castle Road.

For sports lovers, Hong Kong Park Sports Centre and Hong Kong Squash Centre are on Cotton Tree Drive, and Sheung Wan Sports Centre isn’t far away. There are also several private members clubs close by in Central, including the super-traditional Hong Kong Club, the trendy China Club and the Foreign Correspondents’ Club, formerly a journalists’ haven but now open to everyone.

Mid-Levels is well served for local shops and services, with Caine Road and Robinson Road in particular lined with interesting independent options, including delicatessens, interesting clothing shops, stores selling organic produce and even an impressive range of pet-related services, as well as chains including both of Hong Kong’s major supermarkets. And if they’re not enough, there’s no need to worry: some of the best shopping in the world is on your doorstep in Central, with other prime districts such as Causeway Bay and Tsim Sha Tsui a very short ride away.

sHoPs and serVicesThe private

membership Ladies Recreation Club

is located in Mid-Levels and offers a wide range of

sporting facilities.

BELOW: Another view of the Mid-Levels escalatorsRighT: Looking upwards in Mid-

Levels

Mid-Levels

SOFT LANDING 179The Peak

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As Hong Kong locations go, The Peak is it: the bee’s knees, the cat’s pyjamas, the top of the tree, the

absolutely most desirable place to be, the address to end all addresses. Pretty much since modern Hong Kong has existed, the area properly known as Victoria Peak, at the top of a 552-meter mountain of the same name that towers over central Hong Hong and commands the most magnificent of views of the city, has been The Place To Be. Unfortunately there’s not very much of it, and that, coupled with its desirability, has turned it into some of the most expensive real estate on the planet – real estate that has recently risen to its highest ever price, back above the previous high just before the Asian Financial Crisis in 1997.

So, reasons of historical prestige aside, why does this area of land at the top of The Peak, also known as Mount Austin although almost never called that, command prices as sky-high as its location? Well, there are the views, which, depending on where you’re standing, could cover just about anywhere. There’s the secluded, exclusive, tucked-away feel of the place, noticeably apart from the city but still within spitting distance of it. Most of all, there’s the Hong Kong government’s role; it owns virtually all the land in the city, and so can exercise pretty tight controls over prices in an area as concentrated as The Peak by simply not releasing much land for development. (Put it like this: in July 2010 a property developer paid HKD10.4 billion, or more than HKD32,000 per square foot of gross usable floor area, for a site on Nicholson Road auctioned by the government – and that was considered slightly low by the market.) There’s also a large concentration of Hong Kong’s most desirable properties here – as with a lot of millionaires rows around the world, the popularity of The Peak is self-sustaining, as property developers are drawn to put many of their most opulent creations in the area of the city with the most cachet.

The Peak is effectively ringed by other districts, which makes it relatively easy to gain access to services, from education to shopping, that aren’t fully provided for up the hill. To the north is Mid-Levels, a spiritual continuation of The Peak in a diluted way, if not quite a physical one, with its numerous residential towers, full range of services and extreme proximity to Central. West is desirable, sea-facing Pok Fu Lam, then to the south there’s slightly

tHe PeaK

LEFT: The Peak


SOFT LANDING 181180 SOFT LANDING NeighborhoodsThe Peak

Due to government regulations, all

buildings on The Peak are low-rise.

ABOVE CENTER: Residential area of

The Peak

RighT: Lugard Road, The Peak

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grittier Aberdeen and Wong Chuk Hang, and to the east a hillside and then pleasant, residential Happy Valley.

The area around The Peak Tram (actually a funicular) and The Peak Tower and Peak Galleria shopping malls is frequently rammed with tourists – The Peak is Hong Kong’s top tourist attraction, mainly for its stupendous views, attracting seven million visitors a year. But in general The Peak is a quiet, peaceful area, with plenty of greenery and little of the hustle and bustle typical of the city. It’s a place for pet animals, not party animals. Indeed, The Peak is mainly a family area – but only for the select few families that can afford to live there. And so, for your neighbors there, you’ll have a very large number of Hong Kong’s great and good, plus those expats whose companies decided to give them a very generous financial package indeed. Probably the biggest disadvantage is the place’s mild inaccessibility – but by the standards of any normal city, rather than hyper-compact Hong Kong, The Peak really isn’t that far from Central and the rest of Hong Kong. And if you live there, you’ll definitely always be able to at least see everywhere else.

Medical services on The Peak are dominated by Matilda International Hospital, a large private hospital with an excellent reputation. Other than that, the area isn’t exactly filled with medical practitioners, but everything you need is just down the hill in Central and Mid-Levels; numerous medical and dental clinics, the Canossa Hospital at the bottom of Old Peak Road, near the top of Mid-Levels, and Hong Kong Central Hospital in Lower Albert Road, Central.

Most secondary school-age children will have to leave The Peak to go to school; the only local option is the German Swiss International School in Guildford Road, which also has an English-language stream. For younger children, there’s The Peak School, a primary school that’s part of Hong Kong’s English Schools Foundation, a collection of high-quality international schools with a government subsidy that doesn’t stop them charging hefty fees.

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transPortThe lack of a station on the MTR, Hong Kong’s subway system, can be a bit of an issue, but then if you live on The Peak, you’re unlikely to be using public transport all that much anyway. If you do, the district is served by buses, although they have to get up and down one or another somewhat old-fashioned, winding road – there are no high-speed expressways around here, which is of course part of the place’s exclusive charm. Bus services include the 15 to Central, the 15B to Causeway Bay and minibus 1 to Central. There’s also The Peak Tram, which is mainly for tourists but can be quite useful if you happen to live near a station and want to get to Central.

It takes about 10 minutes to get to Central from The Peak, and if you’re working anywhere on Hong Kong

Island, your commute time isn’t going to be too bad. From Central, you’re a 25-minute train ride from the airport, and about 45 minutes from the border with mainland China.

sHoPs and serVicesIt’s fair to say that The Peak isn’t exactly rammed with shops, but again, the district’s position at the heart of Hong Kong Island means that most of the city’s premier shopping districts are within easy striking distance.

Both of Hong Kong’s main supermarket chains are represented up here, and then there’s the largely tourist-oriented Peak Tower and Peak Galleria shopping malls, which feature a curious combination of upscale boutiques, the odd supermarket and a whole lot of unmitigated tourist tat. Other shops are thin on the ground, but there are a couple of smaller shopping centers dotted around the district.

For most leisure and cultural facilities, again you’re going to need to descend the hill. There are lots of restaurants in and around The Peak Tower and The Peak Galleria, many of them designed very much with families in mind, and several with knockout views. Highlights include the international Pearl on The Peak and Café Deco, upscale Italian Simpatico and the outdoor Peak Lookout.

183Finding housing PREPARATIONSSOFT LANDING 183Pok Fu Lam

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In many ways, Pok Fu Lam doesn’t feel like it’s on Hong Kong Island. For a start, it’s by the ocean – although

admittedly an awful lot of places in Hong Kong can say that about themselves – with a position on the western end of Hong Kong island that gives it big, sweeping vistas over the South China Sea. Then there’s the fact that it’s demonstrably away from the bustle of the city, relatively tranquil considering how close it is to Central, with a quality of life that attracts wealthy expats and locals alike. They’re also drawn to its plentiful supply of high-end, spacious apartments, many of them located in some of Hong Kong’s biggest and best-known private luxury developments.

But in many other ways, this is an area that feels exactly like it’s on Hong Kong Island. Close to the western tip of the island, just four kilometers from Central, Pok Fu Lam combines a pleasant environment with convenience. It also has a range of services, particularly when it comes to leisure but in terms of education and transport too, that can rival more or less anywhere. This makes it a very popular area among families; with great schools, abundant things to do, a relatively leafy environment and some seriously sizeable homes, this is one of the more popular places on Hong Kong Island to bring up kids, at least among those who can afford it.

Pok Fu Lam faces west-south-west at the western end of Hong Kong island: follow the densely populated north side of the island until the buildings run out at Kennedy Town, swing left, head south for a short distance and there you are. That means it’s also at the bottom of the western slope of Mount Austin, popularly known as The Peak, although theoretically that name only refers to the residential bit at the top of it; regardless, what we have here is a very well-connected area.

It’s also very close to the somewhat gritty but useful town of Aberdeen, which lies further around the coast of the island to the south and east, along with a range of surrounding areas, including Wah Fu, which is between Pok Fu Lam and Aberdeen and mainly consists of public housing estates; other estates such as Tin Wan, Shek Pai Wan and Wah Kwai; and the heavily populated island of Ap Lei Chau, linked to Aberdeen by a road bridge.

PoK FU laM

LEFT: Pok Fu Lam

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SOFT LANDING 185

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184 SOFT LANDING Pok Fu LamPok Fu Lam

Bauhinia blakeana, Hong Kong’s floral emblem, was first discovered in Pok

Fu Lam.

TOP CENTER: View over the South China Sea as seen from Pok Fu Lam

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Aberdeen in particular is well served for transport and boasts some interesting shops and one or two good places to eat, as well as being the center of Hong Kong’s sailing community, with both the Aberdeen Boat Club and Aberdeen Marina Club located there.

Pretty much wherever you live in Pok Fu Lam, you’re guaranteed a good view. The district is spread out over the lower slopes of a hill that leads down to the sea, so everyone gets enticing vistas, particularly as the area is characteristically Hong Kong high-rise. Of the big buildings on display, probably the most prominent is the Cyberport development in the south of Pok Fu Lam, which as well as hosting a massive shopping mall, five-star hotel, cinema and other leisure facilities, is also a massive office complex with, as the name suggests, an emphasis on technology companies, plus residential projects including, most notably, the huge, high-end Bel-Air. There are numerous other big developments nearby, including the extensive, luxury Baguio Villa; plus nearby Hong Kong University owns a lot of accommodation, some of it aimed at teaching staff, very spacious and sometimes available to outsiders.

The main view from Pok Fu Lam is west towards Lantau Island, with the smaller islands of Peng Chau, Hei Ling Chau and Cheung Chau in front of it, along with one of Hong Kong’s – and therefore the world’s – major shipping lanes, which can be either picturesque or noisy, depending on your point of view. Further to the south the view is very slightly blighted by the massive coal- and gas-fired power station on Lamma Island, its three massive towers clawing the sky like the legs of a broken upturned table – undoubtedly an eyesore, but a minor one compared to the glorious expanse of blue that

dominates the view from most parts of Pok Fu Lam.

The area isn’t all identikit modern high-rises. At its heart is the historic Pok Fu Lam Village, somewhat ramshackle in appearance but full of character and probably one of the city’s earliest inhabited areas in modern times. More of Pok Fu Lam’s past can be seen in the beautiful colonial Béthanie building, formerly a sanatorium but now administered by the Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts, along with the two nearby cow sheds, once part of the now long abandoned Dairy Farm and another relic of the city’s colonial past.

Hong Kong is filled with high-quality medical services, and its public health care system is remarkably good and almost free to residents – and for those who live in Pok Fu Lam, public medical services are right on their doorstep, thanks to the presence of the Queen Mary Hospital. As well as being the teaching hospital for the nearby University of Hong Kong, the Queen Mary is also the main accident and emergency hospital for the whole of Hong Kong Island.

Also located in Pok Fu Lam are a cluster of other public hospitals: the Duchess of Kent’s Children’s

Hospital at Sandy Bay, which as well as kids focuses on spinal and orthopedic issues; the Fung Yiu King Hospital, where the focus is on geriatric care; and the MacLehose Medical Rehabilitation Centre, which provides help with long-term disabilities and following serious injuries.

For private hospitals you’ll have to travel a little further, but not too far. The Matilda International Hospital is just up The Peak, the Tung Wah Hospital is close to Central in Sheung Wan, Hong Kong Central Hospital is located exactly where the name suggests and there’s also the private non-profit Canossa Hospital in Mid-Levels. For general practice and dental services, the Queen Mary is a good starting point; but, as ever, you don’t have to go far in Hong Kong to trip over a high-quality private doctor.

Educationally, the western end of Hong Kong island is dominated by Asia’s top-ranked academic institution, the University of Hong Kong, which has its main campus at the western edge of Mid-Levels on Bonham Road and Pok Fu Lam Road and sprawls out towards Pok Fu Lam, with its Li Ka Shing Faculty of Medicine actually located there.

The educational needs of children are also well taken care of. West Island School and Kennedy School, both in Pok Fu Lam, are part of Hong Kong’s international-standard English Schools Foundation, which also includes South Island School in nearby Aberdeen. Slightly further along Hong Kong Island’s south coast, in Wong Chuk Hang, is the Canadian International School. Private non-profit independent school the Independent Schools Foundation Academy is also in Pok Fu Lam, while the Christian St Clare’s Girls’ School is on its northern fringes and Kellett School, Hong Kong’s English international school, has its primary campus in Wah Fu.

Thanks to Hong Kong’s somewhat tortuous collection of one-way systems and the difficulty of building big roads in a high-density city (the fact that most of it is made up of hills doesn’t help here), it’s very easy to get into the center of Hong Kong from Pok Fu Lam, but not quite so straightforward to get back again. Pok Fu Lam Road, unsurprisingly enough, is the main street through the district; in one direction it leads up through Western district towards Central, connecting with a highway that whisks you eastwards to the town center in minutes; in the other it heads down towards Aberdeen. A couple of roads lead off it in the direction of The Peak. The Airport Express station in Central is just down the highway, and with travel time to Central rarely more than 10 to 15 minutes, the rest of the city is pretty accessible, too.

What Pok Fu Lam doesn’t have is any form of rail transport. The city’s tram system runs out a long way before it gets that far out, and the MTR system even further away. However

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186 SOFT LANDING Pok Fu Lam

sHoPs and serVices

There are many excellent hiking trails in the hills

around Pok Fu Lam that offer stunning views of the ocean.

BELOW: The terraced Pok Fu

Lam Road CemeteryRighT: South

China Sea from Pok Fu Lam

Photo: Michelle D. Garthe /

Garthe Photo Arts LLC

the latter situation is hopefully set to change, with the stop-start plans for the new West Island Line and South Island Line still under review. If they do go ahead – and don’t hold your breath here – then both Cyberport and Wah Fu will get stations on the South Island Line (West Section), linking up with University Station on the West Island Line and on towards Central, and Wong Chuk Hang on the South Island Line (East Section), with a connection on towards the big interchange at Admiralty.

There are, however, an awful lot of buses serving Pok Fu Lam, as well as a truly staggering number serving nearby Aberdeen and its surrounding estates.

Pok Fu Lam isn’t exactly overloaded with shopping options, although there’s a sizeable mall at Cyberport and smaller shopping centers dotted around the area’s housing develop-ments. Fortunately, Aberdeen is just around the corner and Central’s nu-merous temples of Mammon not too far away either. Likewise there aren’t many bars or restaurants here, but there are some options further south. For Hong Kong's famous nightlife, you'll have to head downtown.

In terms of cultural venues, there’s a big cinema in Cyberport, and the Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts’ so-called Landmark Heritage Campus in the graceful colonial Béthanie Building. The University of Hong Kong also has an excellent museum and library, and hosts regular arts performances.

Despite its lengthy coastline, Pok Fu Lam doesn’t have much in the way of beaches, but this is Hong Kong and there’s always one fairly close by. Neither does it have a lot of parks, but it’s an inherently green area anyway, and it has the very extensive Pok Fu Lam Country Park, leading up the slopes of Mount Austin to The Peak, right next door.

The presence of the university is a boon for sports lovers, in the form specifically of Sandy Bay, where the Stanley Ho Sports Centre provides a pretty full range of sporting facilities. Further afield, sports facilities in the surrounding areas include Flora Ho Sports Centre, Aberdeen Tennis and Squash Centre, Pao Yue Kong Swimming Pool in Wong Chuk Hang, Kennedy Town Swimming Pool, Smithfield Sports Centre in Kennedy Town, Aberdeen Sports Ground, Aberdeen Sports Centre, Ap Lei Chau Sports Centre and Wong Chuk Hang Sports Centre.

SOFT LANDING 189Happy Valley

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Considering its fairly central location, Happy Valley feels surprisingly suburban. It’s quiet (for the

congested northern part of Hong Kong Island) with plenty fairly traffic-free streets intersecting with its major thoroughfares. It has lots of desirable housing, most of it in the area’s numerous high-rise luxury developments, including Highcliff, The Summit and The Leighton Hill. And it has more of a community feel than most parts of inner-city Hong Kong. The result: it’s home to a lot of rich people, and quite a few famous people. It’s popular with expats and families, but also with young single people, for both its location and its generally pleasant housing stock.

It wasn’t always the pleasant slice of not-quite-suburbia that it is today, however. Happy Valley’s low-lying situation and marshy environment meant that in the early days of British settlement, the area was a petri dish for various nasty diseases, not least among them malaria, that were responsible for a lot of deaths. A number of cemeteries were built in the area – it still plays host to six of them today, of various denominations – and the name Happy Valley, a common euphemism for cemeteries at the time, took over from the previous name, Wong Nai Chung (these days the Chinese name has changed to Pau Ma Dei, but the old name is preserved in one of the area’s major roads).

Since not long after that, the area has been dominated, as it still is today, by Happy Valley Racecourse. Built in 1846, just four years after the British took over – which says a great deal about the colonial administrators’ priorities – the racecourse sits at the bottom of the valley. Part of the district runs up the racecourse’s east side, but most of it spills up the valley to the south-east of it. Wong Nai Chung Road surrounds most of the racecourse, with Blue Pool Road, Sing Woo Road and Shan Kwong Road the major roads up the hill through the main residential area. Carry on up the hill at the top and you head towards Wong Nai Chung gap and the south side of Hong Kong Island. Facing Happy Valley to the south and east respectively are the two mountains that form either side of the valley itself, Mount Nicholson and Jardine’s Lookout.

LEFT: Happy Valley

HaPPY ValleY


SOFT LANDING 191190 SOFT LANDING Happy ValleyHappy Valley

On race days (Wednesday nights)

traffic patterns are altered to

accommodate the large influx of

traffic and the roads can become quite

congested.

TOP CENTER: Happy Valley Racecourse

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Happpy Valley is set back from the coast, and therefore slightly shielded from the morass of population along it, but the neighboring districts of Causeway Bay and Wan Chai, focused on shopping and entertainment respectively but both also residential, are right in the thick of it. To the east of lower Happy Valley is another low-lying area, So Kon Po, which is dominated by various sports and leisure facilities, biggest among them Hong Kong Stadium, home to numerous sporting events including the famed Hong Kong Sevens rugby tournament. To the east of upper Happy Valley lies the ultra-exclusive enclave of Jardine’s Lookout, the area closest to rivaling The Peak as Hong Kong’s most desirable address.

There’s no shortage of private doctors in Happy Valley, and the area is also close to a number of excellent hospitals. Hong Kong Sanatorium and Hospital, one of Hong Kong’s oldest and most renowned private establishments, is in the district, while the equally excellent Hong Kong Adventist Hospital is just up the hill on Stubbs Road. The high-quality, charity-funded Tung Wah Eastern Hospital is just around the corner in So Kon Po, and sought-after private St Paul’s Hospital isn’t far away in Causeway Bay.

In line with its reputation as a family-friendly area, there’s a plethora of schools in and around Happy Valley. Within the district itself, Catholic girls’ Marymount Secondary School is on Blue Pool Road, with its primary counterpart not far away in Tai Hang Road; St Paul’s School, also a Catholic girls’ school, is on Ventris Road; and the private, French-language French International School is on Blue Pool

Road. Not much further afield, up the hill along leafy, exclusive Stubbs Road, you’ll find a whole string of educational establishments: Catholic co-educational Rosaryhill School, which caters to all age groups; the junior Bradbury School, part of Hong Kong’s international-standard, subsidized but expensive English Schools Foundation; Lingnan Primary School and Kindergarten; and Hillside International Kindergarten. Also not a million miles away, in Braemar Hill, North Point, is the prestigious Chinese International School.

Unlike most of the residential districts of northern Hong Kong Island, which are mostly strung along the coast, Happy Valley’s position slightly inland means that it doesn’t have a station on Hong Kong’s extremely efficient and useful MTR subway system (there were plans to build one as part of the proposed South Island Line, but they were shelved in 2009).

Fear not, though, because there’s an MTR station not all that far away in Causeway Bay – although from the nearest entrance, at the giant

Times Square shopping mall, you sometimes feel like you’ve walked halfway to your destination by the time you reach the platform.

And then there’s the tram. There’s a tram terminus at the uphill end of the racecourse, at the corner of Wong Nai Chung, Blue Pool and Sing Woo Roads, and an awful lot of trams, traveling in both directions most of the way along the north side of Hong Kong Island, pass through it. Hong Kong’s trams don’t necessarily go very fast, certainly stop a lot and aren’t air conditioned, but they’re extremely regular, efficient and, at HKD2 (25 US cents) for any journey, a complete steal.

The area is also fairly well served for buses. Routes serving the area include the 1 and 10S to Kennedy Town, the 5S between Causeway Bay and Sai Ying Pun via lower Happy Valley, the 8S and 8X to Sui Sai Wan and the 19 to North Point or Shau Kei Wan.

By road, it takes about 10 minutes to get to Central, and there’s also a tunnel from Happy Valley directly to Aberdeen on Hong Kong Island’s south side, as well as Wong Nai Chung Gap Road over the hills in the

same direction; taxis are as plentiful in Happy Valley as they are more or less everywhere in the city. Central plays host to Hong Kong Airport Express Station, 25 minutes from the airport. For the border with mainland China, there are direct buses from Wan Chai.

sHoPs and serVicesHappy Valley’s a pretty good area for shopping. Sing Woo Road is lined with a diverse range of stores both independent and chain, while the shops along Wong Nai Chung Road mostly sell homeware, dividing roughly 50-50 into trendy-modern-minimalist and traditional-Chinese-maximalist.

But the important thing to remember is that at its northern end, Happy Valley segues pretty seamlessly into Causeway Bay, one of the most varied and frenzied cornucopias of consumer delight on the planet. Anywhere in Happy Valley, you’re a few minutes by road from more stores of every description than you could visit in a year.

Just to the northwest is entertainment-focused Wan Chai; formerly a red-light district, it retains some of that flavor, but also contains a huge number of excellent restaurants and some classy bars along with the seedy ones. There are also plenty of places to eat and a few bars in Happy Valley itself, mostly along Sing Woo Road. Wan Chai is also host to some of Hong Kong’s leading cultural venues, in the form of the Hong Kong Arts Centre and Hong Kong Academy for the Performing Arts, plus the massive Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre.

Considering it’s a predominantly high-rise area, like most in Hong Kong, Happy Valley residents are

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192 SOFT LANDING Happy Valley

well served for greenery. Walk up the hill in any direction and the residential suburb soon gives way to mountainside, while lower Happy Valley is completely dominated by the massive racecourse. Not only is it one of the city’s only two racecourses, playing host to regular race meetings that are very enthusiastically attended, but the central infield area hosts a whole range of sports pitches, and is home to several sports teams, including Happy Valley football club, consistently one of the leading contenders in Hong Kong’s first division (which admittedly is of a somewhat modest standard).

Overlooking the racecourse is the private Hong Kong Football Club, popular especially with families for its restaurants and outdoor swimming pool as well as its excellent sports facilities, and just around the corner is Craigengower Cricket Club, which despite its name these days is mainly

a social club with its primary sporting focus on lawn bowls.

The surrounding districts are packed with sports and leisure facilities. The indoor Queen Elizabeth Stadium is nearby in Morrison Hill (where there’s no hill); neighboring So Kon Po contains massive Hong Kong Stadium; Causeway Bay is home to the big-by-Hong-Hong-standards Victoria Park, which houses a stadium, and the multi-sport South China Athletic Association; Wan Chai features Lockhart Road Sports Centre, Wan Chai Sports Ground, Southorn Playground and Harbour Road Sports Centre; and up the hill towards Wong Nai Chung Gap are the public Hong Kong Tennis Centre and the private Hong Kong Cricket Club. Morrison Hill, Wan Chai and Victoria Park all have swimming pools, and there’s also Wong Nai Chung Sports Centre in the heart of Happy Valley itself.

Taking the tram is one of the fun

things about living in Happy Valley.

RighT: Street level in Happy Valley

OPPOSiTE PAgE:Happy Valley

skyline

Finding housing SOFT LANDING 195194 Finding housingSOFT LANDING

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the opposite direction, to the south, lies the pleasant and also sought-after, but these days furiously busy, town of Stanley. The other notable feature near Repulse Bay is Middle Island, a dot just off the coast which is owned and privately operated by the Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club and reached via a private boat service; the fact that they still retain the “Royal” 14 years after Hong Kong’s return to Chinese sovereignty tells you a certain amount about the institution, but it’s a very pleasant little island with excellent facilities provided by the club, assuming you get the chance to enjoy them.

Unsurprisingly, this is first and foremost a family-oriented area. The family-friendly beaches and other abundant leisure opportunities, along

The south side of Hong Kong Island is among the city’s most desirable places to live,

combining a great location close to the city with a more relaxed, beach-front lifestyle and some sensational accommodation. And the most desirable of all addresses on the south side is Repulse Bay.

The small town lies on the south side waterfront, about 6 km south-south-east of Central. It’s

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ABOVE: Repulse Bay

strung along a series of very pleasant beaches that face south onto open sea, first developed for tourism in the 1910s, with what would become the modern-day town first developed in the 1960s. Add a sometimes spectacular backdrop of hills behind the town – the other sides of the same ones that loom over Central and the rest of the north side of Hong Kong Island – and you have a very attractive setting for a place to live.

The Repulse Bay area also includes Middle Bay and South Bay, which run into it along the coast to the south and are equally exclusive. To the north-west, between Repulse Bay and the gritty town of Aberdeen, are the exclusive areas of Deepwater Bay, Shouson Hill and Wong Chuk Hang, while further along the coast in

with excellent local services including a plethora of high-quality schools, make this one of the better places in Hong Kong to bring up kids. It’s free from much of the street-level pollution and enforced high-rise isolation that characterizes a lot of the city and can make it a challenging place to grow up, even in privileged areas.

Repulse Bay is probably the most expensive area of Hong Kong after The Peak, and is certainly home to more than its fair share of the city’s most fabulous homes. Its location, slightly away from the center of the city, gives developers and homeowners a little more room to play with, and allows larger homes – and even, in some cases, single-occupier


SOFT LANDING 197196 SOFT LANDING Repulse BayRepulse Bay

As late as 1841 Repulse Bay was

used as a base by pirates attacking

merchant ships trading with China.

Some say the bay was named after

the HMS Repulse, while others say

the name refers to the action by the

British Fleet which repulsed the pirates

from the bay.

TOP CENTER: Sunset in Repulse Bay

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houses rather than apartments, a rare luxury in cramped Hong Kong. There are also some monster high-rises, albeit very nice ones, with the town’s skyline dominated by massive buildings such as The Lily and the famous ‘building with a hole’, The Repulse Bay, a luxury apartment complex that also features a range of shops and restaurants. Head inland up the hill about a kilometer and you’ll find the massive Hong Kong Parkview luxury serviced apartment and suite development. There are plenty of serviced apartment options in the town itself too, most also at the very high end of the market and extremely sizeable, aimed at the plentiful market of expats with families who are transferred to Hong Kong on generous corporate packages. They, and wealthy locals, make up most of the people in this privileged community.

Repulse Bay isn’t big enough to have its own hospital; the nearest is the excellent Hong Kong Adventist Hospital, which sits just the other side of Wong Nai Chung Gap as the road over the hill descends into Tai Hang and Happy Valley. Not much further away is the highly regarded Matilda International Hospital on The Peak. There are several medical, dental and physiotherapy centers locally, in The Repulse Bay – and it’s not far to travel for lots of other options.

but its Primary School is in the heart of Repulse Bay. Not too far away in Wong Chuk Hang is the highly regarded Canadian International School, while just a little further afield in Aberdeen is South Island School, a secondary school operated by Hong Kong’s English-medium, international-standard, subsidized-but-still-expensive English Schools Foundation. The nearest ESF junior school to Repulse Bay is Bradbury School on Stubbs Road, close to Happy Valley and Tai Hang. There are also several schools for younger children in Repulse Bay, including Southside Kindergarten and The Woodland Montessori Pre-School Repulse Bay.

minutes to get to Central by road, and so nowhere on Hong Kong Island is wildly inaccessible from here. There’s no major highway to or through the town, which is an advantage in terms of environment but obviously a disadvantage in terms of accessibility; the main coastal road that runs through the town, known at various points along its route as Beach Road, Island Road and Repulse Bay Road, is just a normal suburban road, and it can get fearsomely crowded, particularly at weekends. It leads through adjacent Middle Bay and South Bay to the south on the way towards Stanley, while to the north-west it splits in two, with one road continuing along the coast towards Shouson Hill, Wong Chuk Hang and Aberdeen, and the other forking off inland. Take the former and you can access the north of Hong Kong island via the Aberdeen Tunnel (HKD5 toll), which surfaces at Wong Chuk Hang and connects the coastal town of Aberdeen with Happy Valley, not far from the center of the

city. Take the latter and, as Repulse Bay Road, it climbs steeply and goes over the top of the hills at Wong Nai Chung Gap, from where Happy Valley and north-slope hillside Tai Hang and points onwards are easily accessible.

There’s no MTR station in or anyway near Repulse Bay. However, if the endlessly proposed, amended and resubmitted South Island Line ever finally goes ahead – and if it does, it’ll be a few years until it’s finished – it will provide nearby stations at Wong Chuk Hang and Ocean Park, providing access in five minutes or so to the major MTR interchange at Admiralty, right next to Central. In the meantime, buses both mini and double-decker run very regularly along the town’s main road, heading to Stanley in one direction and Central in the other; the 6, 6A and 6X all follow this route. Most of the major property developments also have their own shuttle buses into the city – something that is quite common in high-end properties across Hong Kong, especially in the more outlying areas.

You won’t find much by way of nightlife in Repulse Bay, but it does have a couple of excellent restaurants, in particular The Verandah in The Repulse Bay. There are plentiful dining spots and watering holes just along the coast in Stanley, a few places to eat in Aberdeen along the coast in the opposite direction, and of course the limitless options of Central and the rest of the north of Hong Kong island are just a short car, bus or taxi ride away.

At weekends, there’s also the atmospheric, rooftop South Bay

As you’d expect in an area replete with highly paid expats, international schools have quite a presence on the south side of Hong Kong. The Hong Kong International School has its High School, Middle School and administrative offices further around the coast to the east, on the border of Redhill and Tai Tam,

One of Repulse Bay’s greatest advantages is its relative proximity to the center of Hong Kong, which lies just over the ridge of hills that runs east-west along the spine of Hong Kong island. It takes about 15

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198 SOFT LANDING Repulse Bay

Beach Club. For other types of culture including cinemas and the performing arts, however, you need to go to Central and beyond.

The biggest leisure attractions in and around Repulse Bay, of course, are the beaches. There are beaches in Repulse Bay, Middle Bay and South Bay, with several others just a little way along the coast in Stanley. There’s also Middle Island (see above), for those able to use it. Other private clubs not far from Repulse Bay include Aberdeen Boat Club and Aberdeen Marina Club, two of the city’s leading havens for sailing lovers in the town where many of the city’s yachts are berthed; head up the hill and there’s The American Club Hong Kong, while slightly further on over Wong Nai Chung Gap are the private Hong Kong Cricket Club and the public Hong Kong Tennis Centre. Other sports and leisure facilities are available at The Repulse Bay, and also up the hill at Hong Kong Parkview, both of which non-residents can join for a monthly fee.

Along the coast in Wong Shuk Hang is Ocean Park, a massive sea-themed amusement park popular with locals and visitors from mainland China alike. It’s a pleasantly low-key theme park for both adults and kids, though some of the policies towards animals won’t suit everyone.

For shopping, The Repulse Bay is home to a range of high-end stores, while the Dairy Farm Shopping Centre on the main road is the other main collection of shops in the town. The very popular and eclectic Stanley Market is just down the road, a drive of less than 10 minutes, and Stanley also has a full range of high-street shops. And if all else fails, the shopping utopias of northern Hong Kong Island and southern Kowloon aren’t too tough to get to.

Stanley Ho, the world’s 13th richest

man, owns 1 Repulse Bay and 4 Repulse Bay Road.

RighT: Front line apartments in

Repulse Bay

SOFT LANDING 201Deep Water Bay

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Deep Water Bay, on the south side of Hong Kong Island not far from Aberdeen, Repulse Bay and Stanley, is a

distinctly tiny neighborhood. A beautiful beach and a villa lifestyle make it an envied address, and the fact that it’s convenient for Central via the Aberdeen tunnel doesn’t hurt. There’s basically only one route – via Island Road – to get there from more built-up areas though, so rush hour traffic can be bad and you can get caught up in the crowds heading to Stanley on weekends.

Deep Water Bay itself doesn’t have a lot to offer in terms of schools, hospitals, shopping and the like – but it’s hardly a problem with Repulse Bay and Aberdeen just down the road with all they provide. If you’ve living here, it’s because you can afford it, and because you value the quiet and the views of hills and greenery – it’s an escape from the high-rise bustle of the city and some inconvenience may well be worth it. You’ll pay plenty for the privilege though, with rents extremely high for places that are usually much more spacious than city apartments.

Residents are a mix of moneyed locals and foreigners with good expat packages, although there’s a definite genteel sensibility that suggests the nouveau riche need not apply. Nonetheless, it’s a friendly, family-oriented area that people looking for a quiet life tend to appreciate.

In terms of amenities, there’s the classic trifecta of country club, golf club and yacht club. It’s possible to live an extremely pleasant life out here if you’re lucky enough to be a member. But the main draw, of course, is free: the beach. It’s small but more sheltered and far less crowded than Repulse Bay, and on a quiet afternoon is idyllic with various bays to explore. The water is not always the cleanest, unfortunately, but the beach is well tended, and there are lifeguards on duty. The Seaview Promenade connects Deep Water Bay Beach to Repulse Bay Beach, and is a draw for walkers and runners alike with magnificent views of sea and hills. It could certainly become part of a very pleasant daily fitness regimen. There are changing rooms, showers and even barbecue pits. Expect to share the beach with daytrippers on the weekend, though Repulse Bay and Stanley tend to be the main southern

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LEFT: The Hong Kong Golf Club in Deep Water Bay


SOFT LANDING 203202 SOFT LANDING Deep Water BayDeep Water Bay

The beach in Deep Water Bay is protected by shark

nets.

TOP CENTER: Deep Water Bay Beach on a busy night

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Hong Kong Island draws; but Monday to Friday you’ll be surprised how quiet it can be here.

Unsurprisingly, there are also plenty of yachts to check out. Maybe if you fall under the spell of Deep Water Bay, one day you’ll find one of them is yours.

There are no medical facilities of note in Deep Water Bay. The closest hospital is the Queen Mary Hospital in Pok Fu Lam.

That’s the main thing to bear in mind for transport in Deep Water Bay: weekends and weekdays couldn’t be more different. Assuming good weather, come the weekend the hordes descend on the southern part of Hong Kong Island, and while their destination is usually Repulse Bay or Stanley rather than Deep Water Bay itself, they’re all on the same road. Residents learn to plan around the weekly influx and do their best to avoid getting stuck on the road at the wrong time.

exactly two dining options, neither of which disappoints (and neither of which is particularly cheap). A decent Thai restaurant, Coco Thai, offers spectacular views from its beachside setting and is popular for its atmosphere as much as its food. Cococabana is also on the beach, with Mediterranean food and a good wine list. Both are great places to enjoy a sunny afternoon lunch or watch the sun go down at night, and both have outdoor terrace dining.

Of course, Repulse Bay, Aberdeen and Stanley are all a short drive away so in reality residents of Deep Water Bay can choose from a myriad of restaurants, including lots of great seafood places.

There are two main sports and recreation options, both exclusive, expensive and members-only. The Hong Kong Country Club has great facilities, including an adventure playground and outdoor play space for kids, as well as tennis, squash, bowling, a swimming pool, snooker, and basketball. It has three restaurants of various levels of formality, with a wide range of culinary options including high-end

Cantonese to be found. Locals lucky enough to be members can spend the large part of their weekend here, avoiding the traffic in and out of the area. It’s a fantastic resource to have within walking distance of your home, but becoming a member can take some time since they have a waiting list.

Deep Water Bay Golf Club was once the main home of the Hong Kong Golf Club before they moved on to a bigger space. It’s a nine-hole course, and non-members can only play on weekends. The course itself is unspectacular, but its setting is hard to beat.

Unsurprisingly, Deep Water Bay has a yacht club too. Middle Island, rising out of the sea 100 meters out, between Deep Water Bay and Repulse Bay, houses the Middle Island Yacht Club – one of the three clubhouses of the Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club. (There used to be a lot more institutions with ‘Royal’ in their name – the Yacht Club is one of the few to have retained it since handover in 1997.) They have their own ferry out to the island and offer sailing courses that are open to non-members too. It’s a great place for the kids to learn to sail, and with a pair of binoculars you can probably watch them from the mainland, or even from out the window of your home. Middle Island also houses a smaller clubhouse of the Aberdeen Boat Club.

And if you have kids, don’t forget that you’re not that far from the spectacular Ocean Park in Nam Long Shan – one of the world’s most all-round enjoyable amusement parks, with rides, animal and marine life and thrilling views from a 1.5-kilometer cable car. You’ll be able to see Deep Water Bay from a whole new vantage point.

You’ll have to send your kids elsewhere for their schooling, but not far – Aberdeen is the best option, only a ten-minute drive away. There’s the ESF South Island Secondary School on Nam Fung Road, as well as the Canadian International School of Hong Kong and Singapore International School, all excellent. For younger kids, Repulse Bay also offers Repulse Bay Montessori, Woodland Beachside Pre-School and Southside Kindergarten, as well as the primary-age campus of the Hong Kong International School (up to fifth grade).

Deep Water Bay is far too classy for commerce: shopping has to be done in Aberdeen or Repulse Bay, and of course Stanley Market is pretty close for a weekend of browsing and enjoying the Cafés and open-air restaurants. It’s not much of an inconvenience beyond making it tricky if you don’t have a car – but almost everybody living here does.

You don’t have to get in a car to have a meal out, though in a place this small there obviously isn’t a great depth of choice. Leaving private clubs aside, Deep Water Bay has

There’s no MTR here (though a station is coming to Aberdeen), which is part of what keeps it exclusive. Most people in Deep Water Bay commute by car, and it’s only about twenty minutes to Central, assuming traffic is alright. However, you can also take buses 6, 6A and 260 into the city or the other way to Stanley. The 6 is usually a double-decker, and the views on the hillside road can be spectacular – meaning that tourists on buses are another factor behind weekend traffic slowdowns.

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Whatever you think of Discovery Bay (which you’ll often hear called Disco Bay or simply DB), it’s certain

that you won’t encounter anywhere else in Hong Kong remotely like it. The brainchild of a single developer, it’s a self-contained community of around 16,000 people on Lantau Island. Phase 1 broke ground in 1982, and the place keeps growing: Phase 14 is now underway. Housing is low-rise and distinctly American suburban in appearance, and cars are banned. Other than walking or cycling, the only way to get around inside the grounds of the development is by using the shuttle bus service or on noisy, petrol-powered golf carts, and since these have been limited to 500, rental is expensive and buying one may cost you as much as a decent car.

This all may sound odd, but residents tend to report being very happy about living here, with certain caveats – one being the absence of sports facilities. It’s safe, clean and quiet and the wild beauty of the rest of Lantau Island is right out the gate, not to mention Hong Kong Disneyland and the airport. It’s not even remote, thanks to a 24-hour ferry from Central (with free Wi-Fi, no less) that takes less than 30 minutes, as well as the Discovery Bay Tunnel which links with the North Lantau Expressway.

Downsides? The immaculate environment is not to everybody’s taste (the word ‘Stepford’ often crops up in conversation among skeptics), and while renting or buying isn’t as expensive as on most of Hong Kong Island, it’s not cheap. Property tends to be high end and offer plenty of space, as well as gardens and back yards. (It’s also possible to live on a yacht in the marina though.) Shops and restaurants tend to be on the expensive side, as one would expect with a semi-captive audience. Despite the easy connections to more bustling parts of the city, some people feel a little isolated.

It’s a very international environment with at least as many non-Chinese as there are locals, and it’s almost completely self-sufficient with its own schools, shops, restaurants, clubhouses and medical centers. Everything is manicured to perfection, including the custom-made beach. It’s not fair to accuse of it being less than thrilling, since Hong

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LEFT: Discovery Bay

Discovery Bay


SOFT LANDING 207206 SOFT LANDING Discovery Bay Discovery Bay

Unlike many developments in Hong Kong,

Discovery Bay is pet-friendly.

TOP CENTER: Golf carts as transportation in Discovery Bay

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Kong offers plenty of exciting places to live – people come here for the quiet, orderly life, and in general embrace it. There are far worse places to bring up kids, or to escape to at the end of another stressful day at work.

Discovery Bay Medical Centre and Quality HealthCare Medical Centre, both private providers, cover the main health care needs, and organize transferring patients to Hong Kong Island in more serious situations. There are plenty of pets here, and a vet in Discovery Bay handles any problems they may have.

speaking environment and pick up the language quickly, SKH Wei Lun Primary School is a Chinese-language Anglican primary school covering Years 1 to 6.

that there’s a surcharge between midnight and 6am. The trip takes less than half an hour. There’s free Wi-Fi on the ferry to stop the busy Hong Kong resident from losing a single moment of work time during his or her commute.

The main bus services are the DB01R, which goes to Tung Chung MTR station (15-20 minutes, every 20 minutes); the DB02R, to Hong Kong International Airport in Chek Lap Kok (20-30 minutes, 24 hours); and the DB03R to Sunny Bay MTR station (15-20 minutes, every 20 minutes – more often in peak hours). The proximity to the airport is the reason you may notice a fair few airline staff living in Discovery Bay.

something to eat while watching your neighbors enjoy their shopping. Given the size of the community, the range on offer is reasonable enough, and Tung Chung with its multiplex and shopping centers is less than 30 minutes away for anybody looking for more options.

In terms of sports, there’s an astro-turf football pitch and some basketball courts, but other than that community facilities are distinctly lacking. Bear in mind, however, that many people live in compounds that have their own pools and gyms or other sporting options. On the upside, hiking paths that eventually take you out of Discovery Bay to climb the hills of Lantau are a great way to keep fit while enjoying spectacular views. Siena Central Park isn’t exactly sporty, but you can stroll around and do a little tai chi if you’re so inclined, in a pleasant environment.

There are four private clubs. Discovery Bay Residents Club is open to any resident willing to pay their monthly fee, which also means automatic membership of Club Siena. Discovery Bay Marina Club runs yachting activities and deals with people who choose to live on their boats. Discovery Bay Golf Club offers an unremarkable but impeccably maintained 27-hole course.

The community is sufficiently established by now for people to have set up their own clubs and social organizations, such as a boat club and a rugby team. With an expat population that’s less transient than most in Hong Kong, you may find yourself surprised by the strong sense of community you find in Discovery Bay.

And there’s a big trump card if you have kids… Hong Kong Disneyland is only two kilometers away.

Discovery Bay has good educational facilities, mostly though not all private; older students generally have to travel to schools on Hong Kong Island or in Tung Chung. For pre-schoolers, there’s Discovery Mind International School Kindergarten (English) and Discovery Mind Kindergarten (English and Chinese) and Sunshine House (English).

For older students, the most obvious option for foreigners is Discovery Bay International School, which uses the National Curriculum of England and goes from Year 1 to Year 11; it and will eventually go all the way to Year 13 and the ICGSE qualification. There’s also Discovery College, an independent school operated by the ESF (the government body that runs the network of state-supported English-language schools in Hong Kong), which covers Year 1 to Year 10. It provides the International Baccalaureate Primary Years Program and is a candidate school for the IB Middle Years Program.

For parents who want their young kids to spend time in a Cantonese-

Inside Discovery Bay, you’ve got your legs and possibly a bike. You don’t have a car or motorbike, since they’re completely banned; you can rent or buy a golf cart but these are surprisingly noisy (they’re petrol-powered rather than electric) and expensive. Otherwise, there’s the free 24-hour shuttle bus service which runs various routes to the different villages, using the bus terminus by the ferry pier as a central hub. It can be slightly inconvenient, but you’ll get where you’re going even if you have to change bus at the terminus, and the distances aren’t huge in any case. This is a feature, not a bug, and the lack of traffic is a huge reason so many residents praise the quality of life here.

You get to and from Discovery Bay in one of two ways: by road or by sea. There’s a road tunnel that connects to the North Lantau Expressway and from there to anywhere else on or off Lantau. There’s also a 24-hour ferry service from Central which costs less than HKD40 – though note

Discovery Plaza is where it’s at – you’ll find the bus terminus and ferry here as well. There’s a Fusion supermarket and a Wellcome, as well as a range of restaurants and Cafés. Many of the twenty-plus restaurants overlook the beach, and there’s no shortage of bars to slake your thirst in. Although there are smaller shops around clusters of housing (which locals call villages) in Discovery Bay, this is very much the main hub of consumer activity. There’s a pleasant enough piazza for strolling around or having

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SOFT LANDING 209

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Stanley

In many ways, Stanley is a great place to live, with two nice beaches, a chilled-out seaside vibe and a famous

market. It can be an idyllic place of al fresco dining by the sea and there are plenty of expatriates who have made it their home. Rents are high and the cost of buying is stratospheric. Part of a peninsular finger that reaches down to the southernmost point of the island and more a village than a real town, Stanley has a lot going for it in terms of quality of life, and an appealing mix of modern and colonial architecture. It certainly treats its overseas residents better than it used to – Stanley was the location of a notorious Japanese internment camp during World War II.

The downside is directly related to all these things: Stanley gets extremely crowded at weekends due to the popularity of its market and its status as a mini-day trip favorite. The market itself is geared towards tourists and successfully attracts hordes of them, and the town itself can feel like one big crowd. This is just two days a week, and crowds dissipate by early evening, but your sleepy, quiet home can be anything but for the duration of a weekend. Foreigners who live here often have places a little outside the town proper (something to bear in mind when you’re house hunting), and thus may not be directly affected, but many people try to plan their lives so they don’t need to do any shopping or driving during peak tourist hours. Of course, plenty of people love the hubbub of it all as well.

It’s a low-rise area with more of a sense of space than many other places, and expats tend to live in individual houses or modern developments with all the amenities: gym, pool, tennis court and so on. There are some well-known public estates here as well, which are actually rather attractive. There’s historic interest – this is where the Japanese finally completed their violent takeover of Hong Kong during WWII – and one of the city’s oldest Tin Hau temples. It’s not hard for people to find homes they’re extremely happy with in Stanley, as long as they’re willing to pay for them. Given the combination of laidback fishing village and bustling, international town not far from Central, it’s not surprising that plenty are indeed willing to do just that.

stanleY

LEFT: Stanley


SOFT LANDING 211210 SOFT LANDING Stanley Stanley

Quality HealthCare Medical Centre in Stanley Plaza has both a general practitioner and a chiropractor. The closest hospital is the Queen Mary Hospital in Pok Fu Lam, which has a full range of facilities including emergency and inpatient surgical services.

For somewhere that gets so many

visitors from other parts of the city,

Stanley remains an extremely laidback

and relaxed place to live.

TOP CENTER: Stanley from a distance

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scHoolsStanley is home to Saint Stephen’s College, the largest secondary school in Hong Kong with around 1200 students. It’s also one of the city’s few boarding schools. English is the medium of instruction for all classes except Chinese History, Language and Culture, plus Visual Arts and Physical Education; however, note that it’s not an international school – students study towards the Hong Kong Diploma. It also has a feeder primary school, Saint Stephen’s College Preparatory School. Pre-school options include Saint Teresa’s Kindergarten and Hong Kong Montessori for Children. Of course, Stanley is a well-established stop on school bus routes for the major international schools in Hong Kong, including the Canadian International School of Hong Kong and Singapore International School in Aberdeen.

Stanley is such a small place that when we’re talking about transport, we’re really talking about getting in and out of it. As with most of Hong Kong Island’s south coast, it helps a lot to have your own car here, though traffic can be bad during rush hours, since the Aberdeen Tunnel is basically the only route connecting the town to Central. There’s no MTR yet, though it’s been mooted for future development, so you’re reliant on driving or taking the bus.

Bus service is good though, with the 6, 6X and 260 to Central; the 973 to Tsim Sha Tsui; the 63 and 65 to North Point; and the 73 to Aberdeen. There are also minibuses: 16M to Chai Wan, 52 to Aberdeen, 40 to Causeway Bay.

There’s one big downside to living in Stanley in terms of transport, however. The popularity of the market on weekends, with tourists and locals descending on the town from all over the city, makes daytime traffic in and out of Stanley very bad, and at times horrendous. There’s little that can be done about this; perhaps the MTR will one day improve things. Residents learn to plan around this weekend disruption.

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When people think of shopping in Stanley, they think of Stanley Market. But while it can be a lot of fun to browse there for silk garments, sportswear, t-shirts, jewelry and the like, in the end it’s a tourist destination and the majority of wares are overpriced. There’s quality to be found of course, and one of the fun things of becoming a resident of Stanley is getting to find out where the good stuff is. You’ll certainly be set for swimwear and beach things.

When it comes to more prosaic day-to-day shopping, for food there’s a Wellcome supermarket. Oddly, it’s housed in the Old Stanley Police Station, a Declared Monument of Hong Kong (the equivalent of a

listed building in the UK) – Hong Kong’s commitment to merging commerce and culture exemplified. Stanley Plaza is generally the go-to option, with a Taste supermarket, a bakery and various other food shopping options. There’s a wet market along the waterfront for fresher fare, and as ever in Hong Kong boasts an impressive range in a small area. There are plenty of local vendors for fruit, newspapers and the like. Stanley is a small place, so people looking for big malls and the full Hong Kong shopping experience will need to head to Causeway Bay.

When it comes to food and drink, the main attraction is the promenade along the waterfront, with an array of small restaurants and Cafés where people can sit in the shade and eat or drink without a care in the world – other than finding a place during the crowded weekends. There are also bars here, and a range of international cuisine, ranging from passable to rather good. Al fresco dining is not that common in Hong Kong and is one of Stanley’s main draws.

Another option is Murray House, once a colonial barracks in Central. When demand for the space there became too pressing, the whole thing was taken down and then rebuilt – not copied, rebuilt with the same bricks – and moved to Stanley. It houses restaurants and bars, as well as the Hong Kong Maritime Museum, and offers some fantastic

views. The pizza place Wildfire on the top floor is popular with families.

Stanley has two extremely pleasant beaches, Stanley Main Beach and the smaller Saint Stephen’s Beach, both crammed on weekends, with barbecue areas and shark nets to keep everyone well fed and safe. There are plenty of opportunities for watersports, and nautical types can join the local boat club. The famous Stanley Dragon Boat Races every May or June draw huge crowds and are a thrilling occasion.

For people looking for less sand in their fun, there’s a modern leisure center with a swimming pool, and the town also offers basketball courts, tennis facilities and the like. It’s easy to keep fit here.

For some the most attractive feature of Stanley will be its proximity to The American Club, a stone's throw from Stanley proper. This private members club is exclusive and offers recreational and dining facilities to match. The club has a variety of programs for both adults and children ranging from Pilates and yoga to scuba diving for adults, and from rock climbing to science workshops for kids.

Stanley also houses two rather important institutions that don’t get quite as much publicity as Stanley Market. Stanley Prison is a maximum security facility that’s been there since the 1930s (there’s a museum you can visit); and the southern portion of the peninsula is given over entirely to a PLA (People’s Liberation Army) base. The grounds are strictly no entry, so it’s advised that people don’t get too ambitious with their jogging when heading south. Anyone who finds themselves involved with either of these has done something wrong; everyone else barely notices their existence.

Stanley may be tiny, but there are still nooks and crannies that tourists tend to overlook and locals keep to themselves.

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SOFT LANDING 213Kowloon

Compared to Hong Kong Island, Kowloon is hardcore Hong Kong living. Its 47 square kilometers are

crowded (Mong Kok is arguably the most densely populated place on the planet) and it's much more in your face than its neighbor to the south. Yet Tsim Sha Tsui in particular offers a huge range of cultural, culinary and social activities, and Kowloon Tong and New Kowloon to the north (neither technically part of Kowloon but usually included in discussion) are increasingly popular among expats looking for cheaper housing that still reaches a decent standard. And this is Hong Kong – anywhere there are tall buildings there are high-end serviced apartments offering all the amenities you could ask for.

Kowloon is officially made up of the areas Jordan, Yau Ma Tei and Mong Kok, and in fact tends to be distinctly low-rise by urban Hong Kong standards. This is due to the fact that much of it was on the landing path for the old Kai Tak Airport until 1998. The skyscrapers are going up fast though, and Union Square in West Kowloon now has Hong Kong’s tallest building, the International Commerce Centre.

The name Kowloon means ‘nine dragons’ and comes from the eight hills marking its northern border (the ninth dragon being the Emperor observing said hills). As you approach those hills, the housing situation improves. Kowloon proper is pretty cramped. It’s a great place to live for people on a budget who don’t mind a small flat; it’s not really a place to settle a family. West Kowloon, however, offers luxury serviced apartments such as Union Square that are as impressive (and pricy) as anywhere else on the Island.

Across Boundary Street to the north, however, Kowloon Tong becomes the expat promised land. It’s low-rise, crowds magically abate (relatively speaking), streets are leafy and broad, and there’s enough space for both luxury and middle-class houses. Yes, houses, not apartments. Rents are better value out here too – the problem can be finding somewhere in the first place. They get snapped up fast.

Those who do decide to base themselves out here will find everything they need – museums, parks, kids' activities,

KoWloon

LEFT: Kowloon


214 SOFT LANDING SOFT LANDING 215Kowloon Kowloon

sports facilities, glitzy shopping malls, great restaurants and bars. And if they feel the real action is still to be found on Hong Kong Island, the much-loved Star Ferry will take them across Victoria Harbour for almost nothing.

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For Tsim Sha Tsui, the Hong Kong Baptist Hospital on Waterloo Road is an excellent private medical care center, and should be your first choice if your insurance covers it – there are also numerous smaller private clinics and medical centres, and you should pick the one nearest you in most cases. In terms of state hospitals, Queen Elizabeth Hospital on Gascoigne Road is the biggest in Kowloon. In almost every way care will be just as good there as in a private center, though you may have to wait longer to be treated and there will be less privacy and more rushed doctors.

As befits such a populated area, there’s a great range of choice for schools in Kowloon – see our Education Listings for an exhaustive list of syllabi and qualifications offered. Many of the bigger international schools are in Kowloon Tong, where there’s more space for campuses. Over there you’ll find the Australian International School, the American international School and Yew Chung International School, all of which take students all the way through from pre-school to high school graduation. There's also Think International School and Kingston International School, which take students up to 12 years old. In Kowloon proper there's Sear Rogers International School (up to 18 years old), as well as Kowloon Junior School for primary students.

ESF (state-run English-language schools) include Kowloon Junior and Beacon Hill primary schools, plus King George V School, one of the city’s oldest schools (dating back to 1894). Dedicated pre-schools include Delia School of Canada, Munsang College, Good Shepherd Church Kindergarten and Christ Church International Kindergarten, as well as Tutor Time International Nursery and Kindergarten.

You’re in one of the most networked places on the planet in Kowloon. There are plenty of buses, but you’ll want to dodge traffic and go underground. Five MTR lines zipper up through it, including the red Tsuen Wan line going straight up Nathan Road one way and over to Central the other, and the green Kwun Tong line which connects to Kowloon Tong. The East Rail takes you up to the New Territories and all the way to Shenzhen. If you do plan to go to the mainland by train, you’ll be going via Hung Hom Station to Guangzhou, Shanghai, Beijing and various stops along the way. There are even ferries from the Hong Kong China Ferry Terminal to Macau, as well as Zhuhai and other nearby mainland cities.

If you’re heading across to Hong Kong Island, other than the Star Ferry you can drive via the Cross Harbour or Western tunnels, or take the MTR. Heading the other way to the airport, you can simply get

on the Airport Express from West Kowloon. Kowloon is nothing if not easy to get around in, and to get out of. Driving is fine in terms of direct routes to wherever you want to go, though traffic can be busy at the best of times and at rush hour is rather hard going.

No matter where you are, you’ll never be far from shops. Nathan Road is a byword for electronics shops, though you’ll need to keep your wits about you and know what you’re looking for. Tailors tout for business on every street corner, most of them excellent and cheap. Massive malls such as iSquare, K11, Union Square in West Kowloon and Kowloon Tong Mall have everything you need from groceries to designer clothes, via food courts and gyms. Elements Mall has a 360 organic food store. Really, walk out your door and throw a stone and you’ll hit somebody selling you something.

Food abounds too, with wet markets and fruit and veg stalls everywhere. Tsim Sha Tsui has loads of fantastic small lunch and dinner places where the staff may not speak much English but the menu does; there’s also the waterfront down here and posh dining hubs like 1 Peking Road and 1881 Heritage. Knutsford Terrace is famous for its bars and restaurants and is a great place for outdoor dining. The Chungking Mansions area is a riot of small Indian subcontinent and Southeast Asian restaurants to

explore. There’s a fair chance you’re within walking distance of at least a hundred restaurants no matter where you are in Kowloon.

Culturally, the Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront is museum central, with the Hong Kong Museum of History, the Hong Kong Museum of Art, the Hong Kong Science Museum and the Hong Kong Space Museum rubbing shoulders. The last two in particular are great places for kids, with the Space Museum housing a fantastic planetarium. The Hong Kong Coliseum is a major concert venue.

Kowloon Park is a nice respite from the busy streets, a raised park which packs a lot in despite not being immense: duck ponds and even flamingos, as well as an aviary; indoor and outdoor swimming pools; morning tai chi areas; Kung Fu Corner, with free Sunday afternoon displays; a games hall; and a sculpture walk.

Kowloon Sports Centre on Austin Road is the best public sports hall (though your apartment complex may well already have excellent fitness facilities), including badminton, squash, volleyball and a gym. Higher up the social scale, Kowloon Cricket Club is a longstanding expat fixture, a member’s club with superb sporting facilities and a social hub which has made the transition from colonial elitism to family-friendly club welcome to all (who can stump up the fees).

Looking ahead a little, the massive West Kowloon Cultural District project is in full swing, and by 2015 the area should feature brand spanking new theaters, concert halls and modern art museum. The scale is so massive that the whole shebang is not expected to be finished until the mid-2020s.

The Avenue of Stars along the Kowloon waterfront is a fun

open-air homage to Hong Kong's thriving movie

industry and a big tourist draw.

TOP CENTER: The celebrated Nathan Road

Navigating the jammed streets of Mongkok on a sweltering summer day is definitely a special Hong Kong experience, though not one you may want to repeat too often.

Finding housing SOFT LANDING 217


216 Kowloon TongSOFT LANDING SOFT LANDING 217Neighborhoods

Kowloon Tong is the most upscale and expensive area of the Kowloon peninsula.

Its low density (at least for Hong Kong) residential neighborhoods are home to some of Hong Kong's biggest movie stars and power brokers, such as Henry Tang, who stood as one of three candidates in the 2012 election for Hong Kong's Chief Executive.

The broad streets of Kowloon Tong were planned by the former British Administration of Hong Kong in the 1920s as a residential area based on the British model. Many of those same administrators and other British businessmen called the area home and many of the streets are named after English counties.

Like many parts of the city, Kowloon Tong has its share of contradictions. While it's known for having some of the best schools in the city, it's also notable for having Hong Kong's highest concentration of so-called 'love hotels' where rooms can be rented by the hour.

The area is bordered by Lion Rock Country Park to the north. At the base of the mountain are the exclusive neighborhoods around Beacon Hill Road and Broadcast Drive. To the south, the official historical border between Kowloon South and North is the east-west running Boundary Street. To the east the area around Kowloon Tsai and Morse Park is generally regarded as being part of Kowloon Tong. Move west from Kowloon Tong Station past Hong Kong City University and public low cost housing emerges in and around the Shek Kip Mei area. Further afield to the west brings more public housing in the Sham Shui Po area.

Over the mountain in the valley to the north lies Sha Tin. The area is popular with some

KoWloon tong and sHa tin

TOP: Kowloon by nightBOTTOM LEFT: Festival Walk mallBOTTOM MiDDLE: Kowloon Tsai ParkBOTTOM RighT: Waterloo Road

Image by Kim Luu


SOFT LANDING 219218 Kowloon TongSOFT LANDING

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expat families for its suburban feel and more affordable housing prices. Strung along the Shing Mun River to Tolo Harbour, Sha Tin was formerly a market town before the development of Sha Tin New Town, which began in the 1970s.

Kowloon Tong is well served by a number of high-quality health care facilities both within its borders and in neighboring areas. The most central is Hong Kong Baptist Hospital on Waterloo Road, north-east of Kowloon Tong MTR station. It was Hong Kong's first private hospital, however it does not provide emergency services. Queen Elizabeth Hospital and Caritas Medical Centre on Wing Hong Street in Sham Shui Po offer 24-hour emergency service to the area. Beyond those mentioned, Saint Theresa's Hospital and Hong Kong Baptist Hospital are located in the vicinity.

In Sha Tin, Union Hospital - Hong Kong's newest private hospital - has opened. It has 300 beds and a range of services on offer.

Students from across the island and territories commute to schools in North Kowloon and Kowloon Tong, of which there are many. The Ameri-can International School, Australian International School, Yew Chung In-ternational School, Harrow Interna-tional School and Concordia Interna-tional School are all in and around Kowloon Tong and offer places in all age ranges. Harrow also offers boarding.

Long-established (1967) Beacon Hill School, Kingston International School, Think International School and Kowloon Junior School are also nearby, offering the International Baccalaureate Program's Primary Years Program and places up to 12 years of age.

Residents of both Kowloon Tong and Sha Tin are served by Sha Tin's educa-tional offerings. Renaissance College, Sha Tin College, Sha Tin Junior School and International Christian School are all in the valley.

Aside from the obvious taxi option, Kowloon Tong is also served well by the city's MTR system. The Kwun Tong and East Rail Lines intersect at Kowloon Tong Station. If you want to get to Hong Kong Island, however, you'll have to connect to the Tsuen Wan Line to get to Central and Ad-miralty or the Tseung Kwan O Line to get to North Point and Quarry Bay – both from the Kwun Tong Line.

Many who live in Kowloon Tong de-cide to get a car, as getting around locally can be a pain given the more spread-out nature of the area. Even those who drive regularly usually take the MTR if they are headed to Hong Kong Island, as parking is al-

The center of commercial and retail activity in Kowloon Tong is the Fes-tival Walk Mall, which provides the vast majority of shopping and eat-ing options in the area. Access from there to the plethora of options fur-ther south is easy vis the MTR.

New Town Plaza is Sha Tin's version of Festival Walk and provides area residents most of what they need. Recreational options abound in Sha Tin as well.

Kowloon Tong

most always much more of a hassle than it's worth.

In general, much of what can be said of transportation options in Kowloon Tong can be said of Sha Tin. However, when it comes to the MTR an extra connection at Kowloon Tong Station will be required on your way downtown. Unique to Sha Tin is its bicycle tracks, which are popular with both locals and visitors.

BELOW: Sha Tin at night

In parts of Kowloon Tong, you'll find

it hard to believe that you're only a few minutes' walk

from the crowds of Kowloon's main

areas.

Sha Tin is residential rather than a draw for visitors, but it does have a pleasant riverside walk.


220 Clear Water BaySOFT LANDING SOFT LANDING 221Neighborhoods

People who move to Clear Water Bay and Sai Kung do so primarily because they want a

lifestyle defined by natural beauty and outdoor activity such as hiking and sea kayaking rather than iconic skyline and non-stop nightlife. The areas sport some of the most pristine beaches in Hong Kong and are ideally suited for families looking for enough space to allow them to live a relaxed lifestyle.

The largest district by area in Hong Kong, Sai Kung has a strong and devoted expat community that swears by the lifestyle available there. There's even an English-language lifestyle magazine produced by expats for expats living in Sai Kung and Clear Water Bay. Though often busy with tourists on weekends, the town regains its sleepy fishing village atmosphere with all the associate charm on weekdays, as well as the plethora of seafood restaurants and other attractions set up to serve the weekend visitors.

In general, expect a cleaner environment than in Kowloon or most parts of Hong Kong Island and, most importantly for some, fewer people.

Though there are apartments to be had in low-rise buildings in the Clear Water Bay area for as low as HKD20,000 for about 75 square meters of space, the primary form of expat housing in the region is village houses, townhouses and villas. Prices start at around HKD30,000 for a modestly appointed village house all the way north of HKD200,000 per month for a luxury villa with sweeping ocean views.

Much the same can be said as you move north past Silverstrand toward Sai Kung; however, you'll get more bang for your buck the further north you travel. Private swimming pools and other luxury amenities appear with more frequency in top-end accommodations.

clear Water baY and sai KUng

BOTTOM LEFT: Hebe Haven MarinaBOTTOM CENTER: Sai Chau Golf CourseBOTTOM RighT: Sailing in Sai Kung

Clear Water Bay

Photo by Brian Lee


Clear Water Bay SOFT LANDING 223222 SOFT LANDING

HealtH serVicesNeither Clear Water Bay nor Sai Kung are well served when it comes to private health clinics or private hospitals, so expect to commute to Kowloon, Sha Tin or Hong Kong Island for service. Kowloon Hong Kong Baptist Hospital, the city's first private institution, is the closest for residents of Clear Water Bay. Union Hospital in Sha Tin is open 24 hours, has a wide range of clinics and is a good option for Sai Kung denizens.

scHoolsAccess to quality education is not an issue if you plan to live in either Clear Water Bay or Sai Kung, as there are enough options that there should be space available. As is always the case in Hong Kong, it's best to find which schools have space and begin your assessment of the institution from there, rather than choosing what you think is the best school, only to find out that it's full.

International school options in the Clear Water Bay area include Clear Water Bay School (5-11), Hong Kong Adventist College (12-18) and Creative Secondary School (11-18). There is also Box Hill Kindergarten and Kinder U in Tseung Kwan O, an ESF Abacus Kindergarten and a Garden House Pre-school close to Silverstrand.

In Sai Kung, there are no international schools in the immediate vicinity. However, Sai Kung International Pre-school, New Song Christian Kindergarten and Leapfrog Kindergarten serve those with younger children.

For residents of both Clear Water Bay and Sai Kung, international school options in North Kowloon and Sha Tin are readily accessible. The

(green ones for the New Territories) are often difficult to hail in certain areas – some liken securing one to winning the lottery – so if you are going to depend on them, get familiar with the call centers.

By public transport, expect commutes of about an hour to Central door-to-door from most areas of Clear Water Bay, as it is 11 stops and about 30-35 minutes from Hang Hau on the MTR alone. Add about 15-20 minutes to the trip from the Sai Kung area via the Choi Hung MTR stop.

Making the commute by car will cut at least 20 minutes off the journey from Clear Water Bay via the Eastern Harbour Crossing. From Sai Kung, taking Sai Sha Road through Sha Tin will avoid frequent rush hour traffic jams on Hiram's Highway and see you to Central in 45 minutes on a good day.

In any case, before deciding to move to Sai Kung or Clear Water Bay, test the commute in rush hour to see if it suits you. If you find it's too long or arduous, try leaving a bit earlier as crush hour begins rather abruptly and 10 or 15 minutes can make quite a difference.

American, Australian, Norwegian, Yew Chung, Christian Alliance, Think, Harrow, Beacon Hill, Kingston and Japanese international schools are in North Kowloon.

In Sha Tin there is International Christian School, Renaissance College, Sha Tin Junior School, Sha Tin College and Li Po United World College.

Don't be discouraged by the Chinese-sounding names of some of these institutions, as most of them offer the International Baccalaureate or another Western curriculum.

transPortChoosing to live in Clear Water Bay or Sai Kung does not necessarily mean you must have a car, but it is recommended. The nearest MTR stop is Hang Hau for those living closer to Clear Water Bay proper; for people closer to Sai Kung, the Choi Hung MTR stop is closest. Both have Park & Ride carparks for HKD6 per hour.

There are established bus and mini bus routes to the MTR from all but the most remote areas, but getting a car will help alleviate any sense of isolation that might arise from living in an out-of-the-way area. Taxis

sHoPs and serVicesFor food shopping, there are options relatively close at hand though probably not within walking distance. Delivery options are available from major retailers (see our Food Shopping section) however and eliminate the need to travel provided you can wait for your delivery to arrive.

There are various retail options not far from Clear Water Bay. The closest for most is the East Point Shopping Centre at the Hang Hau MTR stop. It's a typical mall with typical shops and services. Beyond that The Edge in Tseung Kwan O or Metro City in Po Lam will most likely have what you're looking for.

New Town Plaza in Sha Tin is a good retail option for Sai Kung residents as there is little available locally, which is part of the charm of the area. Festival Walk by the Kowloon Tong MTR is the most upscale option for residents of both areas.

There are a wide variety of recreational and restaurant options in Sai Kung, if not that many night life options, though local institution Steamers, a welcoming sports bar, is very popular..

The Clear Water Bay Golf and Country Club welcomes visitors on weekdays, while golf-inclined residents of Sai Kung can rejoice at being a brief ferry ride away from Sai Chau Golf Course, Hong Kong's only public course, which is run by the Hong Kong Jockey Club.

The Sai Kung Outdoor Recreation Centre has a ton of recreational options on offer, from archery to tennis to roller skating and more. Victoria Recreation Club is a great option for those into water sports such as kayaking.

TOP CENTER: Sai Kung village

houses

Although your kids will have to commute to get

to the nearest international

schools, living in Clear Water Bay pays off when it comes to nearby

natural beauty to explore.

The international community in Clear Water Bay is friendly and welcoming.

Clear Water Bay

224 North PointSOFT LANDING Neighborhoods

With the exception of Braemar Hill – which is considered more upper than middle

class – and a few high-end newer developments sprinkled across Hong Kong's east coast from North Point to the terminus of the MTR at Chai Wan, this area of Hong Kong is considered the home of the island's middle class. While North Point proper is certainly the oldest and most beat-up section of the area, it is also the area where Hong Kong is at its most traditional.

Moving further east and south to the Quarry Bay area into the forest of skyscraping apartment buildings brings more office towers and newer residential developments built specifically with the middle class in mind. Continuing south along the east coast, much of the same continues, with a gradual decrease in the ratio of office space to residential buildings and a gradual increase in greenery and openness through to the Chai Wan MTR.

For Western expats, the east coast (mostly Quarry Bay) is primarily chosen for reasons of price as, generally speaking, you'll get more than a closet in a newer development starting around HKD20,000, compared to Mid-Levels or Happy Valley. Rentals in Quarry Bay top out at around HKD60-70,000, for which you can expect a relatively well appointed 1200-1600-square foot apartment in a building that may have facilities such as swimming pools, badminton courts or kids' play areas. Quarry Bay, particularly around Tai Koo Shing and Sai Wan Ho, is popular with both Korean and Japanese expats.

Moving further south along the coast from Tai Koo Shing, rentals at both the top and bottom end decrease in price and amenities, as do the number of expatriates calling these areas home.

If Hong Kong has an area that could be called 'the 'burbs', Chai Wan is about as close as it gets. For those who prefer a less frenetic pace of life, Chai Wan could be a good choice.

nortH Point and qUarrY baY

TOP RighT: Tai Koo Shing

HealtH serVicesThe east coast's access to the MTR means that you'll never be far from all that Hong Kong has to offer in terms of medical services. However, within Quarry Bay there are a few good facilities such as the Hong Kong Hospital and Sanitorium Family Medicine Centre at 39 Tai Koo Shing Road, and a branch of Raffles Medical which offers health screening, diagnostic testing and dental services at 979 King's Road. At the end of the MTR in Chai Wan, Pamela Youde Nethersole Eastern Hospital is the primary inpatient care facility on the east coast of the island. In addition, Saint Paul's Hospital near Victoria Park has more than 400 beds and Ruttonjee Hospital on Queen's Road has more than 600.

edUcationIn terms of international schools, the Delia School of Canada, Kellett School's secondary campus and the Korean School are all located on the east coast. The Quarry Bay School (ages 5-11) and the Chinese International School are on Braemar Hill, along with a Tutor Time Kindergarten. Victoria Kindergarten also has a few locations in Quarry Bay.

transPortYou're never that far from the MTR along the east coast – and that's one of the main attractions. If you're more than a 10- or 15-minute walk there will surely be a bus

nearby that will have you at the nearest station in minutes. Alternatively, taxis will have you downtown in short order via the Island Eastern Corridor. Traffic can be an issue at rush hour.

sHoPs and serVicesPeople don't move to the east coast of the island for its dining and shopping options, but there are a few worth mentioning. Most notable in Quarry Bay is Cityplaza, a large mall managed by Swire Properties in Tai Koo Shing. Many of the Lan Kwai Fong establishments also have branches in and around Tai Koo Place, which is buzzing after work with people employed at the area's numerous tech firms. The MTR is always there for a jaunt downtown.



226 Ap Lei ChauSOFT LANDING Neighborhoods

Located on the west side of the south coast of Hong Kong island, Ap Lei Chau – literally

'Duck Tongue Island', named for the shape it shares with the Cantonese delicacy – is home to almost 100,000 residents, making it the second most densely populated island in the world. At 1.32 square kilometers, one would think it is a veritable anthill of human activity. However, it doesn't feel like that for many residents, particularly those in the South Horizons development with its green space and well-kept seaside promenade.

Formerly home to Hong Kong's primary power plant and current home to a smattering of temples as well as Hong Kong's first winery, the island is also a natural typhoon shelter for Aberdeen Harbour and the fascinating juxtaposition of yachts and junks moored there.

aberdeen

Aberdeen – its Cantonese name means 'Little Fragrant Harbor', thus 'Little Hong Kong' – is the largest distinct town on the island. Its more than 60,000 residents live in a cluster of high-rise apartment blocks over an area around 500 meters in length.

Though not poor, Aberdeen is certainly blue collar by Hong Kong standards. As a former fishing village, its harbor retains the dwindling vestiges of its past in the form of junks and sampans. Though diminishing in size, the Aberdeen floating village and fishing fleet, made up of over 600 junks and 6,000 people, remains an important fishery in the city and accounts for almost a third of the city's catch.

Generally speaking, expats moving to the area choose to live in the newer apartment complexes on Ap Lei Chau rather than in Aberdeen. The primary reason is price, as apartment rentals are notably cheaper compared to other parts of Hong Kong Island. It also has the benefit of

aP lei cHaU and aberdeen

BOTTOM, LEFT TO RighT: View of Aberdeen from Ap Lei Chau, fisherman in Aberdeen Harbour and yachts in the harbor

Image by John Palis

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228 SOFT LANDING Ap Lei Chau

The most densely populated island in

the world is Santa Cruz del Islote in

Colombia, with 1247 residents on .012 square

kilometers of land. If you decide to live

on Ap Lei Chau, you can say you are

living on the most significant densely

populated island in the world to

truthfully impress your friends at

parties.

an abundance of apartments with stunning sea views. Many long-term expat residents of Ap Lei Chau swear by its convenience and affordability,

HealtH serVicesWhile Ap Lei Chau does have a health clinic specializing in child and maternal care on Ap Lei Chau Main Street, and Aberdeen has another in Shek Pei Wan Shopping Centre, residents are best served by Queen Mary Hospital in nearby Pok Fu Lam. This hospital offers a full range of services, including emergency, accident care and full surgical and inpatient facilities. At 28 storys, it also has the distinction of being the tallest hospital building in Asia.

scHoolsWhile Ap Lei Chau proper does not have any big international schools, it does have an International Montessori School, a Rightmind Kindergarten and a KinderU, all within the confines of the South Horizons development. The IB-accredited South Island School is located in Aberdeen proper and the Canadian and Singapore International Schools are in nearby Brick Hill, as is Victoria Academy. Only slightly futher afield are Kennedy School, Kellett School, West Island School and ISF Academy in Pok Fu Lam.

transPortThere is no MTR service to Aberdeen or Ap Lei Chau, but buses and mini busses are plentiful – you'll rarely wait more than 10 minutes – and as always taxis are there when you need them.

Commute times vary depending on traffic; however you can expect about a 20-30 minute ride to Central outside of rush hour. During rush

hour and often on weekends, the Aberdeen Tunnel will be slow, occasionally mind-numbingly so.

sHoPs and serVicesOn Ap Lei Chau, the residential complexes provide all the requisite facilities one might expect in a somewhat closed community. Gyms, swimming pools, playgrounds, a small shopping center (Marina Centre), a few fast food joints, a couple of Western restaurants and Cafés as well as a number of Asian restaurants.

Aberdeen is probably best known for having some of Hong Kong's most famous floating restaurants, such as the Jumbo Floating Restaurant, which serves as both a tourist attraction and a favorite place for businessmen to impress clients. While residents of Ap Lei Chau may not partake of the over-the-top floating feasts on their doorstep every day, Aberdeen does have a large number of local restaurants to meet the needs of the more casual diner. For night life, don't expect to find much of note in either Aberdeen or Ap Lei Chau. However, the ride downtown is not an issue once rush hour has passed and the reveling hour has begun.

We'd be remiss if we didn't at least mention the Aberdeen Marina Club, as it is a landmark of the area. However, with a two-year waiting list for membership and a HKD3.5 million price tag for annual fees, it's probably not a realistic option for most people.

Ap Lei Chau is also home to 28-floor Horizon Plaza, which has perhaps the best furniture shopping in Hong Kong. Prada and Lane Crawford outlet stores can also be found in Horizon Plaza, as well as an Italian supermarket and a couple of Cafés.

Ap Lei Chau Promenade


230 Tai TamSOFT LANDING Neighborhoods

tai taM and sHeK o

TOP: Redhill PeninsulaBOTTOM LEFT: Hong Kong ParkviewBOTTOM MiDDLE: Shek O BeachBOTTOM RighT: Alley in Shek O Village

Though fully distinct from each other and the rest of Hong Kong, Tai Tam and Shek O share

an important characteristic – they are as remote as it gets on Hong Kong Island yet surprisingly convenient when it comes to commuting.

Tai TamTai Tam has two main residential areas on opposite sides of Tai Tam Country Park, offering substantially different lifestyles. The developments on Redhill Peninsula looking out onto Tai Tam Bay are some of the most exclusive (and expensive) in all of Hong Kong. Though two-bedroom apartments can be found for as low as HKD50,000 per month, the villas that dominate the area regularly rent for HKD175,000 per month and range up to HKD250,000 per month. The proximity to Stanley and the south coast's numerous beaches provide a sun-seeking lifestyle, and for those into hiking numerous options are literally on the doorstep. Most accommodation on the peninsula will have stunning ocean views.

On the other side of the park at the Parkview complex, life can be pointedly self-sustaining within the confines of the five-star development. Two-bedroom family suites start at HKD77,000 per month for a 122 square meter apartment and go up from there. For the quality of the facilities, that's fairly good value for Hong Kong.

Shek OShek O is often overlooked by newcomers to the city. At first glance, the sleepy fishing village of about 3000 residents does not seemingly have the prestige of other areas of the city. However, once you look beyond the rustic Mediterranean-style alleyways of the town, villas on the headland are just as eye-wateringly expensive as those on Redhill Peninsula and


SOFT LANDING232 Tai Tam and Shek o SOFT LANDING 233Tai Tam and Shek o

The exclusive Shek O Golf and

Country Club has superlative facilities,

though the course is a bit short by

most standards. It is private so you'll

need to know a member if you want

to play.

equally sought after by those in the know. Houses in the village can be found for as low as HKD30,000 but are often rented by word of mouth and don't usually make their way onto the open real estate market.

If you're lucky enough to find one, the lifestyle is quite unique. The beach is good and has some of the best surfing in Hong Kong. Though often crowded on the weekends with tourists seeking respite from the city, the area is relatively tranquil during the week and the expat community that lives there is small and familiar.

HealtH serVicesFor those living on the Redhill Peninsula, Quality HealthCare Medical Centre in Stanley Plaza is the closest option. It is a small clinic with a general practitioner and a chiropractor. Just down the road in Repulse Bay there is an OT + P Clinic specializing in family medicine and OB/GYN and a Southside Family Health Centre specializing in child psychology, speech therapy and counseling. The closest hospital is the Queen Mary Hospital in Pok Fu Lam, which has a full range of facilities including emergency and inpatient surgical services; all options downtown are also on the table.

On the Parkview side of Tai Tam, the proximity to downtown offers a plethora of options. Check our Health Care listings.

In Shek O, as is the case in general, there aren't any clinics that specifically cater to the needs of upscale expatriates, though there is a local medical clinic in the town. Beyond that, residents will need to venture into the city for health services or around to Stanley on the south side of the island to visit the clinic in Stanley Plaza.

scHoolsFor those planning to settle on the Redhill side of Tai Tam with small children, there are a number of good options including a Sunshine House and Tutor Time kindergarten, a Woodland Pre-School and a Montessori School in Stanley. Hong Kong International School, which many consider the most prestigious of all, is on the peninsula, though you'll find waiting lists are long unless your company has secured spots for its employees in advance. Beyond the closer places, commutes across the south side of the island are not excessive, opening up plenty of school possibilities.

On the Parkview side, the complex itself has an international kindergarten which makes life there extremely convenient, and the commute to options downtown is not too onerous.

For residents of Shek O, the Delia School of Canada is the closest international school in Tai Koo Shing. There aren't any ESF schools on that part of the island, but commutes to options on the southern part of the island and downtown are doable in most cases. If education is a priority in deciding where to live, it is advisable to look into your options before settling in Shek O.

transPortThe lack of significant development on the south-east coast of the island means the congestion headaches of the Aberdeen Tunnel aren't present.

If you're not driving, developments on Redhill Peninsula generally operate shuttle services to Central (30 minutes) and Stanley (10 minutes) with a good degree of frequency. For residents of Parkview on the other side of the park, shuttle buses will have you at Edinburgh Square near Central MTR and the Star Ferry in 15 minutes or less.

From Shek O, the red minibus service from the center of town will have you at Shau Kai Wan MTR in about 30 minutes with frequent departures. Alternatively bus route 9 also travels the same way though with less frequency. Driving is a good option provided you have parking available at your destination.

sHoPs and serVicesOutside of the Wellcome supermarket in Redhill Plaza, Peninsula residents generally make the short trip into Stanley Plaza for general shopping needs and the numerous dining options it has to offer.

One of the main attractions of living on the Redhill side of Tai Tam is the Hong Kong American Club, which is

a mere five-minute drive from most of the developments. The club, one of the most famous on the island, has excellent dining options as well as a wide variety of programs for both adults and kids. The catch here is that unless you're an American citizen you won't be able to use the facilities in Tai Tam on weekends and holidays, or in the city on weekdays. For non-American citizens, particularly trailing spouses, the club remains an excellent option for weekday use and many take full advantage.

Beyond the American Club, developments on Redhill all have great to excellent recreational facitlities, including pools, gyms, playgrounds and the like.

In Parkview, residents have superb recreational facilities including basketball, badminton and squash courts as well as kids' playrooms, fitness centers, a rock climbing area and even Roman baths. There is a Fusion by Park N Shop in the complex for imported food shopping needs, as well as an on-site spa.

One of the most charming aspects of Shek O is the lack of upscale shopping and services aimed at expats. This might seem lke a big inconvenience, particularly for food, but this really isn't the case. Local markets and stores provide daily necessities like fruit and vegetables, and major food retailers like Park N Shop deliver for a nominal fee.

In Shek O, there are local restaurants with excellent fresh seafood and local Chinese as well as other Asian dishes, plus some watering holes.

The beach is the main draw however, and while it's often crowded on the weekends, during the week you may have it all to yourself. The surfing is the best on the island – if you're a surfer, take full advantage, and if you're not, this is the time to learn.

TOP CENTER: Shek O

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