933-4041 Page 1933-4041
© 2014 Wm. K. Walthers, Inc. Milwaukee, WI 53218 Printed In China I-933-4041
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Thanks for purchasing this Cornerstone® kit. Please read these instructions and study the drawings before starting construction. Allparts are plastic, so use compatible glue and paint to complete your model. PLEASE NOTE: two styles of entry are provided for the center storefront. Interior mounting points are provided for adding scratchbuilt ceilings/floors and interior walls if desired. If you wish to paint your model, brick structures are usually natural “earth” colors, with light or dark mortar between each course of bricks. Many were painted a solid color in later years. Wooden windows and doors were painted various trim colors, while decorative accents on the front wall and roofline (carved wood covered with sheet metal) were often painted to look like stone.
Although wood was the building material of choice for much of early America, disastrous fires led many communities to build replacement structures, especially in business districts, from sturdy brick made by local suppliers or shipped in by rail. As available space in these areas outweighed demand,property owners built tightly packed blocks of adjacent buildings separatedonly by interior firewalls. Two- or three-story designs were common, as most people didn’t care to climb long flights of stairs. The ground floor was home to all kinds of businesses, each with its own entrance and larger display windows to showcase products and let in plenty of light. Upper floors might serve as living quarters for the business owner and family, but were just as often divided into apartments or professional office space, with separate entrances provided at the rear or side of the building. At the time most were built in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, it was common practice to add a variety of architectural decorations on the highly visible front wall, including ornate cornices with dentils at the roofline and additional trim around windows. Corner buildings typically included such trim on both street sides, where it could be seen by passers-by. As building and business owners sought to update their image, many of these structures received new ground floor facades in the 1950s and 60s, followed by smaller energy-efficient windows following the Oil Crisis of the 1970s. More recently, owners in many small towns and city historic districts have renovated these buildings to match their as-built appearance. With its right-hand corner structure, your new model is perfect for the business block of a small town, or the anchor of a larger commercial district in a city scene built with additional Merchant’s Row and Main Street USA businesses, each sold separately. With appropriate signs, figures and vehicles, your new model fits all popular eras from the 1880s to the present. See your local hobby dealer and the latest Walthers HO Reference Book or visit walthers.com for additional accessories to complete your model. NOTE: If you wish to paint your model, do so before starting construction.
1) Glue window glazing to raised window frames on the inside of each Wall as shown: Front Wall (2): Window Glazing (7x 31, 32, 4x 34, 35), Door Glazing (33) Front Entry/Corner Wall (3): Door Glazing (33), WindowGlazing (2x 36) Three-Story Right Side Exterior Wall (4): Window Glazing (4x 34, 7x 36) Three-Story Left Side Interior Wall (7): Window Glazing (2x 36, 2x 40) Three-Story Rear Wall (5): Window Glazing (6x 36, 38) Two-Story Rear Wall (6): Upper Window Glazing (7x 36) Lower Window Glazing (38, 4x 39) Two-Story Side Wall (8): Window Glazing (5x 36)
2) Choose the Original (10) or Modern Entry (11) for the center storefront. Glue Left & Right Window Glazing (37) to back. Glue Glazing (38, 40) to Origi- nal Entry or Glazing (36) to Modern Entry. When dry, glue completed Entry to opening in Front Wall (2).
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3) Glue Straight Cornice (2x 13) to Front Wall and Three-Story Right Side Exterior Wall. Glue Peaked Cornice to Front Entry/Corner Wall.
4) Glue Walls (2, 3, 4, 8) to Base (1) as shown; use the raised ridges to help with alignment. Glue Three-Story Left Side Interior Wall (7) to Base, Three- Story Rear Wall and Front Wall. If desired, the printed interiors or optional inside floors/ceilings and walls (not included) may be added at this time using the raised ridges molded on the inside of each wall as mounting points. If you plan to add lighting or interior details, simply set the floors in place. Glue Three-Story Rear Wall (5) and Two-Story Rear Wall (6) in place.
5) Roofs (16, 17) may be set in place if you wish to add lights or details (sold separately), or glued in place. Glue Chimney Walls (19, 20, 21) to raised area on right side of Roof (17) as shown, aligned with molded chimney on wall. NOTE: For a removable roof, Chimney Cap (41) should be glued only to the three chimney walls on the roof. Glue Chimney Halves (2x 18) and Chimney Cap (22) to Roof (16). Glue Fire Wall (9) to Roof (16) as shown.
6) Glue Three-Story Scupper and Downspout (28) to holes in wall 5 and Two-Story Scupper & Down- spout (30x2) to holes in wall 6. Glue Rear Porch Deck (23) to Porch Railing (24). Glue Com- pleted Porch to Rear Wall. Glue Long Railing (27) to Stairs 26 and to Porch. Glue Small Handrail (25) to Porch Deck and Long Handrail.
DECALING 1. After cutting out the decal, dip in water for 10 seconds, remove and let stand for 1 minute. Slide decal onto surface, position and then blot off any excess water. 2. Lightly brush Micro Sol® on top. This will soften the decal allowing it to conform to irregular surfaces. DO NOT TOUCH DECAL while wet! 3. When the decal is thoroughly dry, check for any trapped air bubbles. Prick them with the point of a small pin or hobby knife blade and apply more Micro Sol®.
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