Sinew-a piece of tough fibrous tissue uniting muscle to bone

Flax-5000 BC,

Cotton-3000 BC, Worn by egyptian arlier than 2500 BC.

Wool-3000 BC, Used by people of the Late Stone Age

Silk-2600 BC, Began about 1725 BC

one of the oldest arts & crafts

early civilization needs for clothing & shelter

Learn twisting from grasses and plant stalks

Earliest surviving evidence of fiber crafts from late upper paleolithic period.

1950- france- a clay carbonaceous imprint discovered – clearly distinguish the puffiness of the twist

The oldest example of textiles yet identified by archaeologists is at the Dzudzuana Cave in the former Soviet state of Georgia. There, a handful of flax fibers was discovered that had been twisted, cut and even dyed a range of colors. The fibers were radiocarbon-dated to between 30,000-36,000 years ago.

Both sides of a fragment of a woven mat or basket container from Guitarrero

essential for shelter

temporary

assembled quickly & securely

plaiting, twining, knotting, weaving

walls, doors, rugs, hammocks

clothing

display of power

to frighten the enemy

social approval

birds nests

spider webs

beavers dams

animal pouches

Structural concept of loom evolved from the ancient methods of arranging yarn or plant material for finger weaving some form of basketry and netting.

The most common was plain weave.

Later they became inventive to find long float twill, basket weave twill etc

hemp

raffia

leaf fibers

hair

wool

fur

sinew

plain woven fabrics dated as early as 5000BC

fabrics and garments indicated status and caste

The earliest example we could find was these knitted socks, © Victoria and Albert Museum, London, circa 300-499, excavated from Egypt at the end of the 19th century.

mummy cloths

system of tablet/card weaving: warp-weighted

Skilled dyers & embroiderers

Evidence of the earliest knitting, using two needles, is believed to come from Egypt in the eleventh century, where more knitted socks were found.

But from there we jump to thirteenth and fourteenth century Europe, particularly France, Germany and Britain.

Fashionable knits were known in France as early as the 1420s

high level of expertise until decline of Egypt second mil.BC

located between Tigris & Euphrates

Sumerians & Babylonians

weaving industry developed by the third millenium

robes of Sumerian kings and priests

Mesopotamian textile , Hermitage Museum

Bhaktiyari motifs

Babylonians replaced Sumerians about 1800 BC

great emphasis on weaving & embroidery

Babylonians embraced wovens with variety of material and yarns.

Textiles were one of the most important trade goods in Mesopotamia. Babylonian textiles were thought to be the best. Bundles were tied to donkeys.

ancient fragments of wool and linen from 3000BC in Palestine

wool was the most common fiber

white wool & course wools or wool with mixtures of colors

pure linen reserved for high priest only

plain weaves, multicolor materials, & art-weavers

capable of producing very complex yarns

metallic yarns and dyeing techniques

textile arts valued highly

tapestry weaving particularly important

exquisite silk tapestries

rich color and pattern

border fragment, Period: 224 to 651 A.D. Warp: Material: linen, tan, Weft: Material: wool, dyed

very accomplished weavers

warp-weighted loom

wool & linen most popular

later wool primarily for men & byssus for women

equally skilled in fabric as mastery in other fields

Women made blanket, table linen, Pazyryk carpet,and many other textile

Romans considered weaving to be beneath them

imported fabrics from Greece

imported slaves for purpose of spinning, weaving, making garments for their households

various weaving centers with variety in types of fabrics

silk deemed as most precious

emperess Hsi Ling shi & discovery of silk-while shipping tea under mulberry tree

no need for spinning

Sogdian silk 8th century

specialized in extremely fine textiles and mastery of ikat

also highly figurative weaves

peasant class of the Copts adopted Christianity

Coptic art distinguished for its splendid textiles

abstract, highly stylized forms

later Christian elements and “story” content emerges

especially skilled at tapestry, mosaic style

best known is woven medallion motif

Coptic weavers pressed into service of Arabs

Roman capital moved to Byzantium, renamed Constantinople

major center for silk textile manufacturing

monks concealed silkworm eggs from China to Constantinople

lavish figure weaves

began entirely by hand

first improvement method of holding warp yarns taut

most basic form provides framework to hold warp rigid while weft is interlaced

warp weighted loom with horizontal beam

Greeks, Romans, Scandinavians, Indians of North & South America

the backstrap loom

tension could be controlled by shift of weight

mostly wove with fingers

more advanced use heddles and seperators to create sheds

Indians of Peru during pre-Inca periods

still used by native peoples of Southeast Asia and the Americas

horizontal ground looms

provides a fixed support at both ends of the warp

frees weaver physically from the loom

pit loom in India

tripod loom in Africa

horizontal frame loom known in ancient Egypt & China in principle it is identical to the common floor loom used

today used in Europe, by 13th century & Renaissance weavers

the draw loom invented in China master weaver & assistant intricacy of pattern

the jacquard loom first pattern loom on a mechanized system Joseph Marie Jacquard for French government in 1804 same principle as a piano or modern computer astonishingly fast and completely automatic

modern hand looms counterbalance loom

harnesses operate in tandem: one harness is lowered and connecting is raised

all warp yarns depart from horizontal jack loom

each harness works independently 4 harnesses or more

countermarch loom rising-shed loom as counterbalance harnesses work independently as jack however makes much larger shed

upright loom different variations of structure excellent for tapestry popular in Navajo weavings

table loom all weaving operations performed with the hands

by the end of 19th interest in handcrafts vanished

revival in 20th century and also currently

began with William Morris, the Bauhaus, Anni Albers, Art Deco

craftsman style flourished around the turn of 20th century in England and also America

American interest in hand weaving began in later part of 1920’s

weaving pioneers: Mary Atwater, Anni Albers move to US, LiliBlumenau, Dorothy Liebes

growth of craft organizations throughout the US

Industrial Revolution and Craft Revival in the South

learned to be almost entirely self-sufficient

folk handcrafts passes from generation to generation

ranges from completely hand woven without assistance of tools to almost entirely digitally woven

greater availability and variety of materials due to technological advances

Olga de Amaral

angharad mclaren

El Anatsui : Ghanian sculptor with woven structure

laurie addis

suzanne tick

gabriel dawe

other contemporary non-loom “woven” structures

Plain weave

Twill weave

Satin/sateen weave

Pile weave

Jacquard weave

Dobby weave

knits

http://textilelearner.blogspot.in/2012/06/history-of-weaving-in-according-with.html

http://www.fofweb.com/History/HistRefMain.asp

http://www.mariamilani.com/ancient_rome/roman_clothing.htm

http://www.crystalinks.com/egyptclothing.html

http://www.olgadeamaral.com

http://www.angharadmclaren.co.uk/

http://suzannetick.com/

Thank You