himalayan dreaming: australian mountaineering in the great...
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Image 2.1. George Finch (right) and Geoffrey Bruce at base camp, following their attempt on Mt Everest in 1922.Photo courtesy of the Royal geographical Society
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Image 2.2. The oxygen apparatus, invented by George Finch, used on the 1922 and subsequent Everest expeditions.Photo courtesy of the Royal geographical Society
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Image 2.3. George Finch on the 1922 Everest expedition, wearing the down-filled jacket that he invented.Photo from the Finch collection, first published in Finch (1924)
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Image 3.1. Surveying on the southern source of the Lolofond Glacier, Imperial College Karakoram expedition, 1957. Grahame Budd (left) and Geoff Bratt, using the theodolitePhoto by keith Miller
Image 3.2. Members of the Imperial College Karakoram expedition, 1957. From left, back row: Keith Miller, Brian Amos, Peter Grimley, Eric Shipton Front row: Geoff Bratt, Chris Gravina, Roger CratchleyPhoto by grahame Budd
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Image 3.3. Jon Stephenson surveying on the 1960 Saltoro expedition, Karakoram, accompanied by Ishmael, a Balti high altitude porter.Photo provided by Jon Stephenson
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Image 3.4. Descending K12, 1960 Saltoro expedition, Karakoram, Pakistan.Photo by Jon Stephenson
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Image 3.5. Geoff Wayatt traversing across the “Wall of Shadows”, north face of Jannu, Nepal,1975. Photo provided by Geoff Waya
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Image 3.6. Geoff Wayatt at camp three on the north face of Jannu, Nepal, 1975.Photo provided by Geoff Wayatt
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Image 4.1a. : Young Australian climbers on an instructional course in New Zealand in 1965 based at Ball Hut, near Mt Cook: practising (a) river crossing, and (b) crevasse rescue. Photos provided by Dorothy Brown
Image 4.1b
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Image 4.2. A young Geoff Wayatt climbing in Yosemite National Park, California, USA, 1969. Photo provided by Geoff Wayatt
Image 4.3. Geoff Wayatt guiding on Mt Sefton, Southern Alps, New Zealand, 2007.Photo provided by Geoff Wayatt
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Image 5.1. The Mulkila expedition team at base camp, 1975Photo provided by Dorothy Brown
1. Michel Altmann. 2. J.P. Sharma (Indian Army Liaison Officer). 3. Warwick Deacock. 4. John Ryder (or Gary Ash). 5. Peter Morris (Doctor for trip–now an ACT orthopedic surgeon). 6. Jim Dorrington. 7. John Dorrington. 8. Dorothy Brown. 9. Derek Lucas. 10. Adrian Blake. 11. Josephine Flood. 12. Harry Aldridge. 13. Gary Ash (or John Ryder). 14. Keith Seddon. 15. Terry Jack.
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Image 5.2. From left: Warwick Deacock, Derek Lucas and Jim Dorrington at base camp on the glacier, Mulkila, 1975. Photo by Dorothy Brown
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Image 6.1. A training climb at Booroomba Rocks near Canberra. Tim Macartney-Snape on “Morning Thunder”. Photo by James Press
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Image 6.2. Climbing the ice cliffs at Blue Lake, Snowy Mountains, NSW, a training climb for the ANUMC Dunagiri expedition, as reported in the Sydney Morning Herald, 1977. Photo provided by ken Baldwin
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Image 7.1. Dunagiri (7066 m), India, the first major Himalayan peak climbed by an Australian expedition. The route went up to the snowy col at the left of the photo, up the rock buttress, and then along the skyline ridge to the summit. Photo by Tim Macartney-Snape
Image 7.2. The Dunagiri team at base camp. Front row, left: Captain Niyogi, Ken Bell, Theo Hooy, John Finnigan, Ken Baldwin, Martin Stone, Kundan Singh. Back row, left: John Armstrong, Sher Singh, Tim Macartney-Snape, Ganga Singh, Peter Cocker, Charlie Massey, Ben Sandilands, Keith Burns, Andrew Blakers. Seated in middle, left: Lincoln Hall, Andrew Bond, Mark Podkolinski. Photo by Andrew Blakers
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Image 7.3. Dunagiri expedition leader Peter Cocker at base camp. Photo by Andrew Blakers
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Image 7.4. Tim Macartney-Snape climbing along the summit ridge of Dunagiri. Photo by Lincoln Hall
Image 7.5. Lincoln Hall at the start of the summit ridge of Dunagiri, with still almost two kilometres before the summit. Photo by Tim Macartney-Snape
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Image 7.6. The rescue of a frost-bitten Lincoln Hall on the lower slopes of Dunagiri. Climbers rendering assistance are Ken Bell, Mark Podkolinski and John Finnigan.Photo by Tim Macartney-Snape
Image 7.7. Weary Dunagiri climbers after the expedition. From left: Sher Singh, Martin Stone, Charlie Massey, Theo Hooy, Ken Bell, Keith Burns (back turned to camera), Andrew Bond. Photo by Tim Macartney-Snape
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Image 7.8. The 25-year reunion of the Dunagiri expedition, Charlotte Pass, Snowy Mountains, NSW, 2003. Back, from left to right: Theo Hooy, John Armstrong, Andrew Blakers, Ben Sandilands, Ken Bell, Peter Smith. Middle, from left: Martin Stone, Peter Lane, Will Steffen, John Finnigan, Bill Packard. Front, from left: Peter Cocker, Ken Baldwin. Packard was patron of the Dunagiri expedition. Lane and Steffen were members of the 1988 Baruntse expedition; Smith was a member of the trekking party to Baruntse. Photo by ken Baldwin
Image 8.1. Climbing in New Zealand’s Southern Alps. Tim Macartney-Snape at the base of the south face of Mt Hicks. Photo by Lincoln Hall
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Image 9.1. Andy Henderson climbing on fixed rope high on Ama Dablam, Nepal. Photo by Tim Macartney-Snape
Image 9.2. On the summit of Ama Dablam. From left: Tim Macartney-Snape, Andy Henderson and Lincoln Hall.Photo by Tim Macartney-Snape
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Image 10.1. Annapurna II (7937 m), as seen from low in the foothills near Pokhara, Nepal. The Australian expedition climbed the prominent spur sweeping down to the right from the summit. Photo by Tim Macartney-Snape
Image 10.2. The Annapurna II expedition team, post-ascent at a jungle settlement below the mountain. From left: Narayan Shresta (in blue), Andy Henderson, Durga Rai, Lincoln Hall, Tim Macartney-Snape, Greg Mortimer and Tenzing Sherpa (Missing: Mike Groom, Ong Chu Sherpa). Photo from the Tim Macartney-Snape collection
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Image 10.3. At the snow cave (camp two) about 6600 m high on Annapurna II. The two climbers are Greg Mortimer and Andy Henderson (with beard). Photo by Tim Macartney-Snape
Image 10.4. A bivouac high on the ridge below the summit of Annapurna II. The climbers are Andy Henderson (left) and Greg Mortimer at the top, and Lincoln Hall below. Photo by Tim Macartney-Snape
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Image 11.1. The team members of the 1984 Australian Everest expedition, at the Channel 9 studios in Sydney prior to the expedition. From left: Greg Mortimer, Andy Henderson, Geoff Bartram, Tim Macartney-Snape and Lincoln Hall. Photo by Steve White
Image 11.2. The north face of Mt Everest (8850 m), Tibet. The Australian team made the first ascent of the Great Couloir, the prominent gully on the left side of the face. Photo by Tim Macartney-Snape
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Image 11.3. Greg Mortimer climbing steep snow on the bottom section of Everest’s north face. Photo by Tim Macartney-Snape
Image 11.4. Geoff Bartram in the snow cave at camp two on Everest’s north face.Photo by Tim Macartney-Snape
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Image 12.1. Slowly climbing up the Great Couloir on the north face of Everest. Photo by Tim Macartney-Snape
Image 12.2. Greg Mortimer traversing through the yellow rock band high on the north face of Everest. Photo by Tim Macartney-Snape
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Image 12.3. Greg Mortimer on the summit of Mt Everest, October 1984. Photo by Tim Macartney-Snape
Image 12.4. Greg Mortimer and Tim Macartney-Snape in China after the first Australian ascent of Mt Everest, October 1984. Photo from the Tim Macartney-Snape collection
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Image 13.1. Bernie McGee and Steve Kennedy on the traverse of the Mt Walter/Mt Green ridge traverse, with the Tasman Glacier below, Southern Alps, New Zealand, 1979. Photo by Zac Zaharias
Image 13.2. Brian Agnew, Dave Sloane and Phil Pitham (from left) on a grand traverse of Mt Cook, Southern Alps, New Zealand, January 1981. Photo by Zac Zaharias
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Image 13.3. RMC (Royal Military College) Mountaineering Club adventure training activity, near Blue Lake, Snowy Mountains, 1977, standing on top of the (now demolished) Soil Conservation Hut, below Mt Twynam. Back row, from left: WO2 Clem Dwyer (SASR), John Trevivian, Peter Lambert, John Cashman, Lester Cornall, Mal Alexander, Stefan Fuchs, (Unknown), Paul Van den Berg, Fritz Schaumberg; Squatting: Steve Kennedy, Jim Truscott, Bernie McGee, Brian Fuge. Photo by Zac Zaharias
Image 13.4. Zac Zaharias, John Trevivian and Jim Truscott (kneeling) above the Sentinel, Snowy Mountains, during an RMC (Royal Military College) Mountaineering Club training exercise, 1977. Photo from the Zac Zaharias collection
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Image 13.5. The Ganesh IV team photo at Kingsford Smith Airport, Sydney, prior to flying an RAAF 707 to Butterworth Air Force base. From left, Colonel Roy Macdonald, LT David Sloane, John Cashman, LT David Simpson, CAPT Jim Truscott, CAPT Zac Zaharias, CAPT Brian Agnew, SPR Phil Pitham and (kneeling) LT Rob Phillpot.Photo from the Zac Zaharias collection
Image 13.6. The Ganesh IV team at base camp. Standing, from left, Temba Sherpa, Brian Agnew, John Cashman, David Simpson, Gyalchen Sherpa, David Sloane, (Unknown), Jim Truscott, Maila Pemba (sirdar), Rob Phillpot, Fritz Schaumburg, (Unknown). Sitting, from left: Dr Roy Macdonald, the Liaison Officer, Phil Pitham. Photo by Zac Zaharias
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Image 13.7. David Simpson returning exhausted to camp one after a carry to camp two, Ganesh IV. Photo by Zac Zaharias
Image 13.8. The fatal avalanche on Ganesh IV, seen from camp one, as it broke and swept over camp two on 23 April, killing David Sloane and destroying the camp, leaving Pemba, Simpson and Truscott stranded without equipment and lucky to be alive. Photo by Zac Zaharias
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Image 14.1. The team for the AAA expedition to Denali (Mt McKinley), Alaska, USA. Back, from left: Phil Pitham, Dr Tony Delaney, Peter Lambert, Joe Lorincz. Front, from left: Zac Zaharias, David Smith, Bernie McGee. Photo from the Zac Zaharias collection
Image 14.2. Peter Lambert on the summit of Denali (Mt McKinley) (6194 m).Photo by Zac Zaharias
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Image 15.1. Andrew Rothfield. White Sail (Dharamsura) expedition, India, 1979. Photo provided by Peter Allen
Image 15.2. Gary Wills. White Sail (Dharamsura) expedition, India, 1979. Photo provided by Peter Allen
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Image 15.3. Peter Allen. White Sail (Dharamsura) expedition, India, 1979. Photo provided by Peter Allen
Image 15.4. Mike Rheinberger. White Sail (Dharamsura) expedition, India, 1979. Photo provided by Peter Allen
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Image 15.5. Gary Wills and Ed Neve near the summit of White Sail, 1979. Photo by Peter Allen.Photo by Peter Allen
Image 15.6. Andrew Rothfield approaching the summit of Changabang, India, 1980.Photo by Peter Allen
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Image 16.1. The team for the expedition to Nilgiri North (7061 m), Nepal. Back, from left, Peter Allen, Phil Pitham, Terry McCullagh, Peter Lambert (sitting), David Evans, Zac Zaharias; Front: Mark Whetu and Maila Pemba. Photo from the Zac Zaharias collection
Image 16.2. Peter Lambert (left) and Terry McCullagh at camp one on Nilgiri North. Photo by Zac Zaharias
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Image 16.3. Steep climbing above camp two on Nilgiri North, 1983. Photo by Peter Allen
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Image 16.4. Terry McCullagh climbing high above camp two on the southeast ridge of Nilgiri North.Photo by Zac Zaharias
Image 16.5. Peter Lambert (left) and Terry McCullagh on the summit of Nilgiri North. Photo by Zac Zaharias
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Image 16.6. Mike Rheinberger. Member of the 1985 NZAC Everest expedition.Photo provided by Peter Allen
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Image 16.7. Peter Allen. Member of the 1985 NZAC Everest expedition. Photo provided by Peter Allen
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Image 16.8. Mike Rheinberger (front) and Peter Allen climbing on the west ridge of Mt Everest, NZAC expedition, 1985. Photo by Mike Perry
Image 17.1. Close-up of Mike Rheinberger at 7900 m on his way to the summit of Broad Peak. Photo by Zac Zaharias
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Image 17.2. Peter Lambert climbing above camp two on Broad Peak, Pakistan, during the summit bid. Photo by Zac Zaharias
Image 17.3 Terry McCullagh approaching camp three at 7000 m on Broad Peak, high above Concordia, Baltoro Glacier. Photo by Zac Zaharias
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Image 17.4. Climbers at the col leading to summit ridge on Broad Peak. Pat Cullinan is in the red suit with yellow helmet, on the way to the summit with three German climbers. Photo by Zac Zaharias
Image 19.1. Craig Nottle (left) and Jon Muir at a tourist camp at New Delhi before the Changabang expedition, 1982. Photo by Brigitte Muir
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Image 20.1. Jon Muir after descending from the west ridge, Mt Everest, 1984, just after Craig Nottle and Fred From fell to their deaths on the summit day. Photo from the Brigitte Muir collection
Image 20.2. Jon Muir on the first ascent of the west pillar of Shivling, India, 1986. Photo by Brigitte Muir
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Image 21.1. Carts of ABEE baggage at Kathmandu, Nepal airport (Peter Lambert sitting on the trolley with back to camera) dispatched by RAAF C130 in December 1987. Photo by Zac Zaharias
Image 22.1. ABEE team photo at base camp, Mt Everest, 1988. Front row, squatting, from left: Ali Shah, Austin Brookes, Sonam Girme, Jim Truscott. Second row, from left: Bruce Farmer, Terry Tremble, Mike Rheinberger, Charlie Hart, Michael Pezet, Terry McCullagh, Chris Curry, Little Pasang, (and two other base camp staff). Back rows, from left: Jim Van Gelder, Norm Crookston, Di (unknown friend of Terry Tremble and Jon Muir who walked into base camp with the team), Peter Lambert, Pat Cullinan, Richard Moor, Carol Brand-Maher, James Strohfeldt, Brian Agnew, Andrew Smith, Paul Bayne (white beanie), Peter Allen, Jill Trenam, Zac Zaharias, Wanchu.Photo by Sorrel Wilby
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Image 22.2. Portrait of Austin Brookes, the leader of the ABEE. Photo by Zac Zaharias
Image 22.3. From left, Bruce Farmer, Jon Muir and Terry Tremble, ABEE expedition, 1988. Photo by Zac Zaharias
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Image 22.4. ABEE climbers repair a section of the Khumbu icefall route after the ladders were damaged during a slump in the ice, Mt Everest, 1988.Photo by Zac Zaharias
Image 22.5. Bruce Farmer with oxygen at the South Col, Mt Everest, the day before Zac’s Yaks’ summit attempt that reached 8600 m. Photo by Zac Zaharias
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Image 22.6. Pat Cullinan with the summit of Everest in the background. Photo by Paul Bayne
Image 23.1. Norm Crookston with oxygen approaching the South Col, Mt Everest. Photo provided by Pat Cullinan
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Image 25.1. The soaring summit of K2, as seen from Broad Peak.Photo by Zac Zaharias
Image 25.2. Greg Child in the snow cave (camp three) on Gasherbrum IV, Pakistan.Photo by Tim Macartney-Snape
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Image 25.3. High on Gasherbrum IV, Greg Child leaving camp four for the summit. Photo by Tim Macartney-Snape
Image 25.4. Greg Child high on a ridge near the north summit of Gasherbrum IV (7925 m), Pakistan.Photo by Tim Macartney-Snape
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Image 25.5. The three climbers who reached the summit of Gasherbrum IV, after their successful ascent but still high on the mountain. From left: Tim Macartney-Snape, Tom Hargis and Greg Child. Photo by Randy Leavitt
Image 26.1. John Coulton climbing high in the Himalaya, 1987. Photo by Michael groom
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Image 28.1. Brigitte Muir climbing at Mont St Michel, Calanque de Morgiou, southern France, late 1970s. Photo provided by Brigitte Muir
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Image 28.2. Brigitte Muir (above, in red) and Graeme Hill climbing below the prow on a new route on the west ridge, Shivling, India, 1986. Photo by Jon Muir
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Image 29.1. The 1990 Cho Oyu, Nepal, expedition team at base camp after the successful summit attempt. From left, Jane White, Rick White, Michael Groom, Steve McDowell and Tony Dignan. Photo from the Michael groom collection
Image 29.2. Tim Macartney-Snape at Ganga Sagar on the Bay of Bengal, India, beginning the long journey to Everest.Photo by Ann Ward
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Image 29.3. Tim Macartney-Snape swimming across the Ganges River, India, on the way to the Himalayan mountains. Photo by Pip Macartney-Snape
Image 29.4. Tim Macartney-Snape at the start of the Himalayan foothills, Nepal. Photo by Ann Ward
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Image 29.5. Tim Macartney-Snape on the summit of Mt Everest, May 1990, having climbed all 8850 metres of the mountain. Photo by Tim Macartney-Snape
This text is taken from Himalayan Dreaming: Australian mountaineering in the great ranges of Asia, 1922–1990, by Will Steffen, published 2017 by ANU Press,
The Australian National University, Canberra, Australia.