Hidden Bangkok: A Walk Through the Back Roads of Sathornby Isaac Olson

This tour can be conducted on foot in conjunction with some motorized transport, by bicycle

or even scooter. It can also be done as a half tour for the not so ambitious. The guide is available in

a few different formats. The pdf format here includes the entire tour plus maps and photos. All

maps and photos are located at the end of the document. This version is the most printer friendly

too. There is also a Google Maps version which can be found by going to Google Maps, clicking

"search options" at the top, choosing "user created maps," then searching for the title "Hidden

Bangkok: A Walk Through the Back Roads of Sathorn." The Google Maps version is easiest to

navigate, but it doesn't have as much information as the blog entry or this pdf version and mobile

internet access is required. Be sure to click on all the icons if you opt to use the Google Maps

version. If you do the tour, then please leave comments and feedback on the blog, so I know if

someone actually did it after all the hours I spent making this.

Why Walk?

Bangkok is a city which in many ways fits into a classical urban space within the developing

world. The city lacks an overriding Singapore-esque like planning system, but planning and

function still exist to create localized orders in different neighborhoods. This aspect is what actually

makes the city one of the most interesting to explore.

This is a walking tour or rather the use of walking to explore an urban space within

Bangkok. This area is one considered off the beaten path by guidebooks and tourists alike. Michel

do Certeau finds that walking breaks down the order that planners try to give cities by walkers

creating their own personalized form. Certeau says,

They walk-an elementary form of this experience of the city; they are walkers. . .whose bodies follow the thicks and thins of an urban 'text' they write without being able to read it. The practitioners make use of spaces that cannot be seen; their knowledge of them is as blind as that of lovers in each other's arms. The paths that correspond in this intertwining, unrecognized poems in which each body in an element signed by many others, elude legibility. It is as though the practices organizing a bustling city were characterized by their blindness (Certeau 1984, 153).

It is clear that Certeau finds walking quite an poetic undertaking, but I would like this

walking tour to be used as only a template to explore. In the spirit of Certeau, find the blindness in

your walking. For when you do, you will become part of the organic organization of the city and

announce your liberation. As a result, use this guide as a tool to be used and discarded only when

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necessary and not as an instruction manual. As Certeau says, "Surveys of routes miss what was: the

act itself of passing by" (Certeau 1984, 157). Walking has its own language and walkers make their

own stylized compositions.

In the past when travel was only an exotic fantasy, legends served as a means to give a place

meaning. Now travel is used instead of legends to find the new, exotic places. By going to far off

lands, travel acts as a round about way of eventually allowing oneself to find exotic elements close

by. To Certeau, through walking and travel, we can create our own legends. This is why you should

get off the beaten path and the Lonely Planet drudgery of same characters, places, and stories. Use

this neighborhood to create your own personal legend for it is this type of experience, you will

always remember.

Note on Shop Houses, Thai-Chinese, and Migrants

Shop houses represent a very practical structure which combine business and

accommodation. Most of the structures on the walking tour are shop houses that are generally about

25 to 40 years old. In Bangkok, it was the building of roads by King Mongkut then later by King

Chulalongkorn that created the trend of city commercialization away from the canals. Along these

roads, the royals built shop houses which were seen as modern structures to encourage trade. Today

these structures seem dated after seeing all the high rises around Bangkok. However, their utility

still remains.

The reality is that the shop house is a structure of diverse uses. Many residents will have a

shop or some small scale industry on the first floor then live in the upper floors. However, there is

also the possibility of renting the upper floors or all of the floors and living elsewhere. The rooftops

of the buildings also offer space to be utilized for gardens, plants, or relaxation. Another unique

feature is the use of awnings. Many shops will sport extended awnings which allows for work to be

done outside making for a cheap way to expand businesses. Entrepreneurs will often buy up the

shop house next door for expansion or living. Because many people own their own shop house, they

can customize them how they see fit. The multiple floors also give the possibility of extended

family or more than one family living in the same shop house while still maintaining a degree of

privacy.

People who run businesses out of shop houses still largely rely on family and their own

savings for business capital, whereas other larger business owners have easier access to capital from

banks and other sources. One local resident owns and runs a restaurant on the first floor of his shop

house and lives in the upper floors. He used to own a restaurant on Sukumvit Rd, but opted to close

that one despite its prime location because he could save so much on overhead by having his

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restaurant in his shop house. Business is slower which means a more relaxing work environment,

but he still makes about the same amount of money due to savings on rent and employees. Another

resident runs an English language school out of the ground floor of the house he grew up and has

lived in for over 30 years.

The Chinese are an old migrant group who came to Bangkok to engage in trade since the

time of its founding. In the twentieth century, more Chinese came for trade and investment. After

the revolution in China, many realized that Bangkok would be their permanent home. This

combined with efforts by the Thai government, forced many Chinese to further integrate into Thai

society. Today, the new generation of Chinese are typically born in Thailand and are therefore Thai-

Chinese. They have been gradually becoming more and more assimilated into Thai culture. One

resident said that the values of the last generation of Thai-Chinese have been fading. For instance,

now younger people are not interested in being frugal and saving their money, but they spend more

freely like Thais.

The neighborhood contains a lot of internal migrants as well. These people mostly come

from Isan (Northeast Thailand), but there are now some Muslims from the South of Thailand and

foreigners from other countries. About twenty years ago, there were no foreigners living in the

neighborhood.

As an almost universal rule, people migrate for economic reasons. Most of the residents

from Isan work in industries requiring skilled or semi-skilled manual labor. There are many auto

and motorbike repair places and a number of taxi cab depots. Many of these migrants stay in the

neighborhood seasonally because they work nearby in jobs such as construction. Also, they can rent

a shop house cheaply with several other migrants.

Even with this diversity, all groups still have the most interactions with each other on an

economic basis. One resident commented that in the past, people would help each other freely in the

neighborhood without expecting anything in return, but nowadays this is not the case. For example,

he made some soup for his neighbors just to be friendly, but the neighbors were suspicious of his

intentions and thought he wanted money for the food or was advertising for his restaurant.

The whole neighborhood is a space centered around the use of shop houses where several

different ethnic and economic groups come together under a common Thai identity and out of

economic practicality to create a single, definitive space. The neighborhood is unique in that it

combines all three sectors of the city, commercial, residential, and industrial. The modern city is

typically defined as being against such mixed use neighborhoods. City planners see a city from

above as gods and want to create a well-ordered world out of it. This neighborhood largely defies

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this authoritarian planning and as a result is a bustling, liberating place for one to create her or his

own walked path of exploration and liberation.

Suggested TourFull Tour

Start: Chong Nonsi BTS/Skytrain StnEnd: Surasak BTS/Skytrain StnWalking Distance: 3.8 kmMotorized Transport Distance: 3.4 kmTotal Distance: 7.2 km

Half Tour

Start: Chong Nongsi BTS/Skytrain StnEnd: Chong Nongsi BTS/Skytrain StnWalking Distance: 2.5 kmMotorized Transport Distance: 2.2 kmTotal Distance: 4.7 km

Look at Map 1 (pg. 8) for an overview of the whole route (All maps are to different scales).

Here's the thing. You'll probably get lost. If you follow the directions exactly, you won't, but

in all likelihood you won't do this, so you'll probably be lost at some point. Don't worry about it.

Just consider it part of the fun. Just remember the main thoroughfares of Naradhiwas Rd, Chan Rd,

Soi Louis 3, and Sathorn Rd. These are the boundaries of the tour. Sathorn Rd is the northern

boundary, Naradhiwas Rd the eastern boundary, Chan Rd the southern boundary, and Soi Chan 18/7

- Soi Louis 3 the western boundary. Look at the compass rose above (Image 1).

Chong Nonsi Station and vicinity. First, look at Map 2 (pg. 9). From Chong Nonsi Station,

take the skywalk to the Sathorn BRT (express bus) Stn which crosses Sathorn Rd. On the way, you

could grab a snack at one of the many vendors to build up your energy for the long walk. (Another

option would be to go straight out Chong Nonsi BTS/Skytrain Stn exit 3 and head to an excellent

Chinese restaurant about 50 meters from the stn - see Picture 2.1 on pg. 9). While on the overpass

above Sathorn Rd, pause for a moment to watch the traffic at this insane intersection and take a look

at the modern skyscrapers around you. Right now, you are in the city's banking district of Bangrak.

Keep this as a point of reference because when you walk away from the station, the buildings

gradually get shorter and the wealth declines.

After crossing the overpass, go straight staying on the left of the canal and Naradthiwas Rd

and look for the first destination on your left. This is a marketplace which serves Thai food,

cafeteria style (see Picture 2.2 on pg. 8). Despite all the wealth of the banks, many of the employees

opt to eat outside of their building's restaurants to save money. Sample some Thai food, then

backtrack to the Sathorn Rd overpass to Sathorn BRT Stn in the middle of Naradhiwas Rd. Take the

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Image 1: Compass Rose

express bus (10-15 baht) to the second stop (station 03) called Technic Krungthep (previously

named Yen Arkard/Yen Akat). Admire the dirty canal as you ride. After you get off, exit the station

on the right hand side (opposite side) of the road. Now, backtrack a bit in the direction the bus

came, which is with the flow of traffic, until you see a blue sign which says "Naradhiwas

Rajanagarindra 14" (see pictures 3.1 and 3.2 on pg. 9). If you plan on biking the whole way, then

take any overpass across Naradhiwas Rd, pause to look at the canal, then continue down the right

side of Naradhiwas Rd until you see a blue sign which says "Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra 14" (see

pictures 3.1 and 3.2 on pg. 9).

Naradhiwas Soi 14. First, look at Map 3 (pg 10). Now that you are in front of the blue sign

which says "Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra 14," go down this road. Walk straight down this street

following the map. Take time to look inside all the shop houses at the many activities that are going

on. Notice that many of the shop houses are full of light industry such as automotive repair, ice

crushing, and printing. This is different than Chinatown, since many shops in that neighborhood are

retail based.

This neighborhood was traditionally Thai-Chinese. Residents estimate that anywhere from

20 to 50% of the people are now Thai-Chinese, but the rest are fully Thai. Many of the people in

this neighborhood are also from Isan (the Northeast of Thailand). According to local residents, most

people have lived in the neighborhood for a long time and typically have family living close by.

There are also a number of temporary migrant workers living in the area and working in the shops.

On top of this, look for people wearing drab uniforms, since they are probably factory workers. The

area's industry consists of light industrial, sewing, and services. Also, be sure to look for distinct

Chinese symbols such as writing.

Continue following the road straight until it clearly makes a sharp left. Follow the busy road

around this sharp left turn. Immediately to your left you may notice the area where the garbage

trucks pull up and sort all of the trash by hand. You'll see this in the night time, but during the day

you'll only see a pile of baskets. Further down the street you'll see a Tesco Lotus Express which is

painted blue and white. Use this as a landmark to go off on your own and explore the many side

streets. After doing a little exploration, continue down the road in front of the Tesco Lotus Express

(see picture 3.3 on pg. 9).

Walk past a large green shop house on the corner (see Picture 3.4 on pg. 10), and go straight

until the street hits a "T" intersection. At this point take a left. Walk until this street also hits a "T"

intersection. then take a right where you will quickly take another left by a gate (see Picture 3.5 on

pg. 10). Walk down this back street between the many shop houses. You'll often see children

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playing in these back streets if school is not in session. When the road dead-ends, go left and walk

down to the "T" intersection.

At this point, you should see a Chinese temple on your right (see Picture 3.6 on pg. 11)

which is situated next to the Bangkok Condo complex. Go to the temple which is named Guan Uh

(Khan Ou) Shrine. It is more than 50 years old. Local residents don't know when or who built it, but

it is dedicated to the spirit of Guan Uh who was a great warrior during the Three Kingdoms Period

of China. Guan Uh was known for his spiritual power, bravery, and loyalty. Worshiping him gives

people health and wealth, and the temple has a statue of this great man. Guan Oh's spiritual vehicle

is a horse, and he was known for having a mustache down to his chest and for being exceptionally

tall. If you are lucky, there might be an event such as a Chinese opera happening, which is actually

done to worship and summon spirits.

Next to the temple is a small alleyway (see Picture 3.7 on pg. 11). Walk down the alleyway

which will take you back to Naradhiwas Rd. The alleyway goes through a small slum community

where you can see families living in makeshift structures of only one or two rooms. You can see a

variety of dwellings with some people even living in two story houses. People are very friendly, but

be sure to ask permission before taking pictures. Also, make way for the scooters trying to zoom by.

When you arrive back at Naradhiwas Rd, this is where you turn left if you're doing the half tour or

turn right if doing the full tour.

Half Tour: Going left will take you back to the Technic Krungthep BRT Stn. From here, take the

bus back to the Sathorn BRT Station, then take the walking connection to Chong Nongsi

BTS/Skytrain Stn. (End Half Tour).

Full Tour: Turn right at the end of the slum at Naradhiwas Rd until you see the large red Makro

building (see picture 3.8 on pg. 11). At this point, keep walking strait until you arrive at Chan Rd,

then take a taxi (35 baht), motorbike (20 baht), tuk tuk (40 baht) or seongtaw (red numbered pickup

truck with seats in the back - 6 baht) to theChan Rd Soi 18 near the Post Office (Look at Map 4 on

pg. 11).

Chan Road. First, look at Map 5 (pg. 12) Chan Rd is a busy thoroughfare with many

restaurants, businesses, and other miscellaneous shops. It's a great place to sample virtually every

kind of street food. If it is the evening, then you might see a steak restaurant (see Steak on the Street

on pg. 15); Chan soi 14/1). After exiting your transport, you'll come across a junk yard with a long

wall in front of it. This wall contains some interesting graffiti that changes periodically. At night,

there is a fun food stall with a jukebox as well. Continuing straight down the right side of Chan Rd,

you will come to a large quantity of food stalls (Picture 4.1 on pg. 14) . Take some time to sample

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the different treats before continuing to Soi Chan 18/7 (commonly known as Soi Louies 3).

Soi Louies 3. Take a right down Soi Chan 18/7 (AKA: Soi Louies 3; see Pictures 4.2 and 4.3

on pg. 14) Soi Louies 3 is a road similar to Chan but with a few more sit down restaurants.

Immediately after you turn right, go inside the nearest entrance on the right side of the road. Enjoy

the air conditioning in this Tops grocery store and take some time to play a few arcade games or just

people watch. Going straight down Soi Louies 3, look into the trinket shops. In particular, there are

a few shops selling unique Chinese ceremonial goods. Further down the road, there is another

Chinese Temple (see picture 4.4 on pg. 14).

Soon after this, you will see the road make a sharp right where there is a massage shop. Get

a massage if you like. Now, look at Map 6 (pg. 13). At the temple or massage shop, get a taxi (35

baht), motorbike (20 baht), tuk tuk (40 baht) or seongtaw (red numbered pickup with seats in the

back - 6 baht) and take it to Surasak BTS/Skytrain Stn. The only thing to see of interest along the

way is the "robot" building which does in fact look like a robot. It's on your right near Sathorn Rd

which comes immediately after a building which looks like a sail boat (see Picture 4.6 on pg. 14).

Surasak Station. Go left after reaching Sathorn Rd following the flow of traffic (see picture

4.7 on pg. 14). The only thing of interest is a restaurant and cooking school called the Blue Elephant

located right next to the station. The building itself is a Thai-Chinese building which is over 100

years old. The interior is the best part. This is the end of the recommended tour, but feel free to

explore further.

References

Askew. 2002. “Krung to Global City: the Dynamics of Transformation.” Available at: http://www.polsci.chula.ac.th/pitch/urbsea09/bangkok.pdf.

Baker, Chris, and Pasuk Phongpaichit. 2005. A History of Thailand. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.

Certeau, Michel de. 1984. “Walking in the City.” : 151-160.

Chantavanich, Supang. 1997. “From Siamese-Chinese to Chinese-Thai: Political Conditions and Identity Shifts among the Chinese in Thailand.” In Ethnic Chinese as Southeast Asians, Singapore: Institute of Southeast Asian Studies, p. 232-257.

Furnivall, J.S. 1939. Netherlands India: A Study of Plural Economy. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.

Gilbert. 1993. “The Housing of the Urban Poor.” In , p. 114-154. Available at: http://www.polsci.chula.ac.th/pitch/urbsea09/gilbert5.pdf.

Gilbert, Alan, and Josef Gugler. 1994. “The Urban-Rural Interface and Migration.” In Cities, Poverty, and Development: Urbanization in the Third World, New York: Oxford University Press. Available at: http://www.polsci.chula.ac.th/pitch/urbsea09/gilbert3.pdf.

Keyes. 1989. “Cities in Changing Societies in Mainland Southeast Asia.” In , p. 259-337. Available at: http://www.polsci.chula.ac.th/pitch/urbsea09/keyes1.pdf.

Unpornpaiboon, Dewey. 2010. “30 Year Thai-Chinese Resident of the Neighborhood.”.

Wiriaikulplaong, Wirat. 2010. “Local Resident and Business Owner on Chan Road.”.

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Map 1: Route Overview

Picture 2.2: Cafeteria

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Map 2: Chong Nongsi BTS/Skytrain Stn to Cafeteria

Picture 2.1: Chinese Restaurant

Picture 3.1: Corner of Naradhiwas Soi 14

Picture 3.2: Sign to Naradhiwas Soi 14

Picture 3.3: Tesco Lotus Express

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Map 3: Naradhiwas Soi 14

Picture 3.4: Green Shop House Picture 3.5: Sharp Left

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Picture 3.6: Chinese Temple (Guan Uh Shrine)

Picture 3.7: Small Alleyway

Picture 3.8: Makro

Map 4: Makro to Chan Rd Soi 18

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Map 5: Chan Rd and Soi Louies 3

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Map 6: Soi Louies 3 to Surasak BTS/Skytrain Stn

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Picture 4.1: Food Stalls

Picture 4.2: Corner of Chan Rd & Soi Chan 18/7 (Soi Louies 3)

Picture 4.3: Sign for Chan Rd 18/7 (Soi Louies 3)

Picture 4.4: Soi Louies 3 Chinese Temple

Picture 4.7: Sathorn Rd Sign

Picture 4.6: Sail Boat Building

Food to Try:

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Stewed Pork

Ice Cream on a Bun

Steamed Dumplings

Grilled FishEggs on a Stick

Thai Doughnuts

Thai Desserts

Steak on the Street (Chan Rd Soi 14/1)