here's to now
DESCRIPTION
Here's to Now-Inner Journeys in an Outer World: A Chris Malloy Film Festival CatalogTRANSCRIPT
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To have to wait for something is what we all need. Slow yourself down and be aware and in tune as you possibly can. Here’s to now.
inner journeys in an outer world
here’s∙to∙now/chris·malloy/
/film festival
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contents /a chris malloy film festival
introduction: here’s to now film festival
the venue: welcome to ojai
the venue: dining, lodging, relaxing, camping
the shedule
the shedule: meet the screening panel
the shedule: films, lectures, workshops
the director: chris malloy
jason baffa interview
08–09
10-15
16-19
20-21
24-25
26-31
32-41
42-43
the films: synopsis and reviews 44–59
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here’s to now. a chris malloy film festival
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The very first annual Here’s to Now: Inner Journeys in an Outer World Film Festival is a two day event consisting of screenings of independent short and feature films and world premieres from established surf & adventure industry filmmakers. The festival is based around a co-op of talented artists, directors, and producers who seek to entertain while subtly introducing audiences to other issues. The festival aims to create an annual pilgrimage that gives the surfing and adventure community and general public a spotlight to celebrate the filmmaking craft, honor the heritage, & learn about traveling responsibly and the bliss of the experience.
Born out of their love for surfing and the outdoors, Chris Malloy, Jason Baffa, Keith Malloy, Thomas Campbell, Emmett Malloy and a pool of other pro surfers, writers, cinematographers, and directors are coming together to collectively tell stories that will inspire the soul. The weekend will also feature live music as well as a symposium of art, culture, and environmental forums and lectures. This festival seeks to advance public understanding of the envi-ronment and its beauty through the power of film. Environmental and adventure films that illustrate the earth’s beauty, the challenges facing our planet, and the work communities are doing to protect the environment, will be featured alongside headlining director Chris Malloy.
here’s to now: inner journeys in an outer world
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the venue.welcome to ojai
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01.film festival venue /ojai, california
location ojai, california
county ventura
highway 33population 8,000main screenings libbey bowl amphitheater
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The city of Ojai: a haven for artists, musicians and health enthusiasts.
welcome to the central coast /ojai, california
Just a few miles up Highway 33, but a world away from the headaches and traffic that thwart much of Southern California is the small town of Ojai. About 12 miles inland from Ventura, Ojai is the smallest city in Ventura County, and the locals are darn proud of it. Ojai’s charms are many. The community has long been known as a haven for artists, musicians and health enthu-siasts. A village of about 8,000, Ojai is a vibrant place with so much natural beauty. Filled with delightful shops, art galleries and a host of places to retreat from the fast-paced lifestyle that can knot the nerves, Ojai invites you to walk its oak-shaded paths taking some time to drink in the serenity of it all.
The Chumash Indians are the first known residents of Ojai, and it is from their word ‘âhwaiâ’ meaning ‘moon’ that the name Ojai is derived. One of the oldest towns in Ventura County, Ojai was settled in the 1800s & incor-porated as a city in 1921. Nestled in the Ojai Valley, the town is surrounded by peaks that give off a glow in the evening light known as the pink moment.
One of the prominent early settlers was Edward D. Libbey, a wealthy glass manufacturer who is responsible for the layout of the town. It was
Robert Winfield who built the stately Arcade that today houses shops & eateries, but it was Libbey’s money and his vision that gave the town a distinctive center faithful to its Spanish heritage. Thus Libbey teamed with architect Richard Requa from San Diego and together they created what today draws the eye and captures the heart.
The wonderful climate of the Ojai Valley has drawn many who wish to rejuvenate their health and enjoy the dry air and seemingly never-ending sunshine. Early settlers established the reputa-tion of Ojai as a center of physical and mental health. Well known for its new age gurus & the coexistence of protestants, Catholics and yoga practitioners, a rich fabric of spiritualism has evolved with room for all.
All that outdoor activity can make one hungry and Ojai is a perfect place to locate just the right food to nourish body and soul. Numer-ous restaurants dot the village, many taking advantage of local harvests with an abundance of fresh food.
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with such scenic beauty, locals relish the opportunity to enjoy the outdoors.
when in ojai /the great outdoors
With so much scenic beauty and a sense of place, it is little wonder that locals and visitors relish the opportunity to enjoy the great out-doors of the Ojai Valley. The Ojai Valley Trail runs for more than nine miles with a parallel path for horses. If you want to meet half the town, that is a good place to start. Bicyclists, walkers, joggers and those exercising pets from dogs to pigs can be seen along the scenic trail.
Among the outdoor treasures are the many parks that dot the city. In the middle of town is the pride of Ojai: Libbey Park. The mighty oaks give shade to a playground for children, and there are plenty of paths and picnic areas. So loved are the majestic oaks that the public mourns their removal, and despite the fact that a couple were diseased, a local man actu-ally chained himself to one a few years ago to protest its removal. In the end the trees were considered too dangerous and too close to the children’s play area to allow them to stand and they were removed after a public service. Lib-bey Park is the site of many events, none more popular than the Ojai Music Festival. Held in early June at the Libbey Bowl amphitheater, its concerts fill the air with vibrant music drawing large crowds who fill the wooden benches & lawns around Libbey Bowl. Libbey Park also contains a bandstand where local musicians play at free summer concerts. With so much scenic beauty and a sense of place, it is little
wonder that locals and visitors relish the oppor-tunity to enjoy the great outdoors of the Ojai Valley. The Ojai Valley Trail runs for more than nine miles with a parallel path for horses. If you want to meet half the town, that is a good place to start. Bicyclists, walkers, joggers and those exercising pets from dogs to pigs can be seen along the scenic trail.
Among the outdoor treasures are the many parks that dot the city. In the middle of town is the pride of Ojai: Libbey Park. The mighty oaks give shade to a playground for children, and there are plenty of paths and picnic areas. So loved are the majestic oaks that the public mourns their removal, and despite the fact that a couple were diseased, a local man actu-ally chained himself to one a few years ago to protest its removal. In the end the trees were considered too dangerous and too close to the children’s play area to allow them to stand & they were removed after a public service.
Libbey Park is the site of many events, none more popular than the Ojai Music Festival. Held in early June at the Libbey Bowl amphi-theater, its concerts fill the air with vibrant music drawing large crowds who fill the wooden benches and lawns around Libbey Bowl. Lib-bey Park also contains a bandstand where local musicians play at free summer concerts.
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where tostay, eat,drink andrelax
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casa ojai(800) 255-8175OjaiInn.com
ojai valley inn & spa(805) 646-1111OjaiResort.com
su nido inn(866) 646-7080SuNidoInn.com
the oaks at ojai(800) 753-OAKS (6257)OaksSpa.com
oakridge inn(805) 649-4018OakridgeInn.com
ojai retreat(805) 646-5277OjaiRetreat.com
crowne plaza ventura beach(800) 842-0800CPVentura.com
lodging restaurants tranquility and rejuvenation
Suzanne’s Cuisine(805) 640-1961520 West Ojai Ave(indoor & patio dining)
Feast Bistro254 East Ojai Ave(805) 640-9260(indoor dining)
The Ranch HouseSouth Lomita Ave(805) 646-2360(indoor & patio dining)
Los Caporales307 E Ojai Ave, Ste 105(805) 646-5452
Rainbow Bridge211 East Matilija St(805) 646-4017(deli with indoor seating)
Kingston’s Candy Co.307 East Ojai Ave(near Libbey Park)
ojai valley inn and spa(805) 646-1111905 Country Club Rd.ojairesort.com
the oaks at ojai122 East Ojai Ave(805) 646-5573oaksspa.com
The day spa of ojai1434 East Ojai Ave(805) 640-1100thedayspa.com
Los Caporales307 E Ojai Ave, Ste 105(805) 646-5452
shangri-la spa retreat11751 N Ventura Ave(805) 646-9953shangrilaparadise.com
the angelic touch211 North Signal Street(805) 640-8600serenitydayspa.com
when in ojai /lodging, dining, relaxing
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campsites in ojai and venturacounty
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dennison park(805) 654-3951
7250 Santa Paula-Ojai Rd., Ojai Tent, RV, Water/Restrooms, Firepits
foster park(805) 659-3951
438 Casitas Vista Rd., Ojai Tent, RV, Water/Restrooms, Firepits, Amphitheater
camp comfort(805) 654-3951
11969 North Creek Rd., Ojai RV, Water/Restrooms, Laundry, Showers
steckel park(805) 654-3951
8080 Mistletoe Rd., Santa Paula Tent, RV, Group, Youth, Water/Rest-rooms, BBQ, Firepits
faria beach(805) 654-3951
4350 Pacific Coast Highway, Ventura Tent, RV, Group, Water/Restrooms, BBQ, Showers, Food, Supplies
hobson beach(805) 654-3678
5120 Pacific Coast Highway, Ventura Tent, RV, Group, Water/Restrooms, Firepits
rincon Beach(805) 654-4023
off Pacific Coast Hwy, SeaCliff Offramp, Ventura
RV Only
lake casitas(805) 654-2345
11311 Santa Ana Rd., Ventura Tent, RV, Group, Water/Restrooms, Firepits
rose valley(805) 654-5678
North of Ojai in Rose Valley Rec Area, Ojai
Tent, RV, Water/Restrooms, BBQ, Firepit
pine mountain(805) 644-4348
Off Hwy 33, 31.7 miles north of Ojai to the turnoff at Pine Mountain Sum-mit. Turn right and follow paved road another 4.7 mi.
Tent, RV, Restrooms, BBQ/Firepits
campsite address services available
when in ojai /camping
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02.here’s to now schedule /films, lectures, workshops
friday july 13th (malloy) thicker than water
saturday july 14th (malloy) shelter, one track mind
sunday july 15th (malloy) a brokedown melody, 180 degrees south
friday july 13th (baffa) singlefin yellow
saturday july 14th (baffa) one california day
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12 here’s to now. meet thescreening panel
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The Ojai, California Here’s to Now Film Festival Screening Panel is comprised of collection of American and International individuals with a recognized passion for surfing and film making. Their backgrounds cover a wide ranging spectrum from the worlds of surfing and media and include film makers and magazine editors, photographers and writers, actors and artists, shapers and cutting edge surfers.
Shaun Tomson-1977 World Champion, best selling writer, filmmaker and surf legend.
David Carson-Redesigned Surfer magazine in the early 90’s as art director. His graphic desgin work has appeared in Surfers Journal, Surfing magazine’s Explorations, the book “Surf Culture” & Surfers Path.
Richard Fitzgerald-Having represented Ireland at both World and European Championships, Richie now concentrates on big wave surfing and owning & managing Ireland’s first intermediate/advanced surf coaching academy.
Vince Medeiros-co-founder and publishing director of The Church of London, makers of surf, skate, snowboarding magazine Huck & Little White Lies film magazine.
Roger Sharp-surf photographer, journalist, film-maker and a man of opinion.
Peter Robinson-Peter Robinson is the founder of the Museum of British Surfing, and an award win-ning former ITV news reporter & senior manager for the national television broadcaster.
here’s to now: the film festival screening panel
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film screenings
Thicker Than Water (2000)Genre: Surf DocumentaryRating: NRRun time: 45 minutesDirected by Chris Malloy, Emmett Malloy, & Jack Johnson
Staring: Raimana Boucher, Saxon Boucher, Timmy Curran, Shane DorianBrad Gerlach, Rob Machado, Kelly Slater, and The Malloy Brothers
Surfer and musician Jack Johnson debuts as a filmmaker in this documen-tary—made in conjunction with Chris and Emmet Malloy—that follows the exploits of master athletes and surfers Kelly Slater, Shane Dorian, the Malloy Brothers and Rob Machado.
here’s to now schedule /films, lectures, workshops
time and location
7:00 P.M. Libbey Amphitheater
followed by Q&A
Singlefin Yellow (2003)Genre: Surf DocumentaryRating: NRRun time: 70 minutesDirected by Jason Baffa
Staring: Tyler Hatzikian, Devon Howard, & Beau Young
Spanning five continents and thousands of miles, filmmaker Jason Baffa’s affecting documentary explores the world of surfing from the perspective of the individuals who make up the sport’s passionate worldwide community. With appearances by Tyler Hatzikian, Beau Young and Devon Howard, among others, Baffa’s film captures some of the world’s most beautiful surfing loca-tions, from California to Japan, Hawaii, Australia and beyond.
10:00 P.M. Libbey Amphitheater
followed by Q&A
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here’s to now schedule /Friday, July 13th
discussions and workshops
Yoga for Surfers w/ Eoin Finn
What: Vinyasa Flow workshop for Surfers
Who: Eoin Finn, BA, EYRT is a yogi, surfer and blissologist who has been teaching his unique and transformative approach to Yoga and Blissology across the world.
Why: A vinyasa yoga experience with Eoin emphasizes the intelligent align-ment of joints so movements in yoga and all of life’s activities are fluid and bio-mechanically sound. The yoga practice becomes a tool to allow the body to function well now, and for years to come.
time and location
4:00 P.M. Libbey Park
followed by Q&A w/ yogi Eoin Finn
“Bend to Baja” w/ Keith Malloy
What: Storytelling and discussion on the ultimate dream trip
Who: Keith Malloy of the Malloy clan will speak about his drive from Southern California up to Oregon, back to So. Cal, down to Baja and back home again, all on veg-oil technology
About: As much as all the brothers wanted make the entire trip together, conflicting schedules and logistics didn’t allow it to happen. In the end, it was Keith who converted his diesel truck to run on used vegetable oil, and made the drive from Southern California up to Oregon, back to So. Cal, down to Baja and back home again. In the process he learned about an entire community of folks who are working together to help each other refine veg-oil technology and locate fuel sources across the country. In Keith’s words, “Bend to Baja was the ultimate dream trip: surfing, climbing and camping all day, every day for two months.”
5:30 P.M. Libbey Amphitheater
followed by Q&A
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film screenings
Shelter (2001)Genre: Surf DocumentaryRating: NRRun time: 45 minutesDirected by Chris Malloy & Taylor SteeleStaring: Rob Machado, Shane Dorian
Wave riders Rob Machado and Shane Dorian transform an Australian farm-house into a surfers’ commune. This film, which banishes all commercial and competitive aspects of the sport, boasts a soundtrack featuring Joachim Cooder, Sunny Levine, Mason Jennings and The Shins.
here’s to now schedule /films, lectures, workshops
time and location
3:00 P.M. Libbey Amphitheater
followed by Q&A
One Track Mind (2008)Genre: Surf DocumentaryRating: NRRun time: 70 minutesDirected by Chris MalloyStaring: Kelly Slater, Andy Irons, Tom Curren, Mark Occhilupo
Explores the technical side and ambitious nature of surfing’s most competi-tive individuals and their drive to push the limits and succeed. Shot on 16mm, the film spans generations and styles in search of the common thread that makes them the best. The most influential people in surfing tell stories about their best boards, the surfers they hail and the waves they live to ride.
6:00 P.M. Libbey Amphitheater
followed by Q&A, additional surf-ing interviews, the Making Of One Track Mind and 12 Steps to Anima-tion by Alex Kopps.
One California Day (2007)Genre: Surf DocumentaryRating: NRRun time: 96 minutesDirected by Mark Jeremias and Jason BaffaStaring: Joel Tudor, Alex Knost, the Malloys
The film runs you down the Californian coast, taking to you to some of the great breaks and beaches. California has such a rich and diverse surf history, shaping many of the great surfers today, and providing the rich history of some of history’s greatest surfers and icons.
9:00 P.M. Libbey Amphitheater
followed by Q&A
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here’s to now schedule /Saturday, July 14th
discussions and workshops
Sun Salutations w/ Eoin Finn
What: Vinyasa Flow workshop/ Surya Namaskar
Who: Eoin Finn, BA, EYRT is a yogi, surfer and blissologist who has been teaching his unique and transformative approach to Yoga and Blissology across the world.
Why: Traditionally, it is performed at dawn, facing the rising sun. Practiced daily it will bring great flexibility to your spine and joints and trim your waist. It limbers up the whole body in preparation for the Asanas (postures), pumps the energy in, removes mental dirt, restores balance.
time and location
8:00 a.M. Libbey Park
followed by Q&A w/ yogi Eoin Finn
“Locals Only” w/ RVCA’s Artist Network Program (ANP)
What: art/culture exhibition from RVCA’s most talented artists
Who: RVCA | VASF latest gallery show comes to Ojai! Come by and check out our community exhibition showcasing 50 of the finest and most tal-ented artists San Francisco has to offer.
About: The RVCA Artist Network Program, commonly referred to as the ANP, is an ongoing program which aims to showcase the talent of accom-plished as well as unknown artists who inspire our generation and push the boundaries of creativity; providing something of substance and culture.
12:00–10:00 P.M. Ojai Center for the Arts
“One Beach” discussion w/ Jason Baffa
What: Discussion on the environmental issue of plastics on our beaches & a sneak peak at his latest film, One Beach
Who: Jason Baffa, director of One California Day & Singlefin: Yellow, leads a discussion on environmental issues surrounding our oceans.
About: the best way to curb the issue of beach plastics is to help educate and inspire those around us. please share the message of this film with your friends and slowly, we can all make a difference.
8:00 P.M. Libbey Amphitheater
followed by Q&A
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film screenings
A Brokedown Melody (2004)Genre: Surf DocumentaryRating: NRRun time: 56 minutesDirected by Chris Malloy
Staring: Kelly Slater, Tom Curren, Gerry Lopez, the Malloys, Rob Machado, CJ Hobgood, Jack Johnson
A Brokedown Melody takes us on a journey through Jamaica, Hawaii, Indo-nesia, Tahiti, South America and Mexico, where waves are plentiful and crowds are extremely hard to find, which in no way is a bad thing. This surfing movie follows a tribe of surfers and they’re journey and experiences while they surf insanely good waves on all sorts of boards, and the stoke they get when they pass it down on to the next generation.
here’s to now schedule /films, lectures, music & workshops
time and location
5:00 P.M. Libbey Amphitheater
followed by Q&A
180 Degrees South (2010)Genre: Adventure Documentary/DramaRating: NRRun time: 87 minutesDirected by Chris Malloy
Staring: Yvon Chouinard, Doug Tompkins, & Jeff Johnson. With surfing by Keith Malloy, Timmy O’Neill, Ramon Navarro and Alicia Ika Acuna.
This film strikes so deeply into the heart of Patagonia’s wilderness we come to feel at home there. 180° South: Conquerors of the Useless follows Jeff Johnson as he retraces the epic 1968 journey of his heroes Yvon Chouinard and Doug Tompkins to Patagonia. Along the way he gets shipwrecked off Easter Island, surfs the longest wave of his life – and prepares himself for a rare ascent of Cerro Corcovado. Jeff’s life turns when he meets up in a rainy hut with Chouinard and Tompkins who, once driven purely by a love of climbing and surfing, now value above all the experience of raw nature – and have come to Patagonia to spend their fortunes to protect it.
7:00 P.M. Libbey Amphitheater
followed by Q&A
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here’s to now schedule /Sunday, July 15th
workshops and music
Here’s to Now Musical Performances
What: a FREE musical lineup featuring artists off director’s soundtracks
Who: Musical performances/appearances by Mason Jennings, The White Buffalo, My Morning Jacket, Devendra Banhart, The Skygreen Leopards, Radical Face, Broken Social Scene
Why: Chris Malloy and Jason Baffa’s films feel more like a movement than surf films. These men along with the co-op of talented artists, directors, and producers have put their heart and soul into the soundtracks for their films, which ultimately makes these surf documentaries stand out from the rest. The music has caused their films to transcend the norms of the surf film industry and engage the viewer in such a way that one feels completely present and aware.
time and location
11:00–4:00 P.M. Libbey Park
including food cart vendors, micro breweries, and wineries of the Central Coast
“Sacred Craft” w/ Carl Ekstrom
What: Surfboard shaping Expo
Who: Surfboard designer & futurist Carl Ekstrom will be honored at the expo during the Tribute to the Masters Shape-off competition presented by US Blanks.
About: During this event, six shapers chosen by Ekstrom will shape a surfboard based on Ekstrom’s asymmetrical design concept. Defending champion Matt Biolos of LOST Surfboards leads the field of six which includes San Diegan’s George Gall, Tim Bessell, Ryan Burch and Dan-iel Thomson as well as Santa Barbara’s Wayne Rich. Our relationship to the environment, as surfers and as an industry, will be highlighted in the Sustainable Craft Showcase, a shaping bay and laminating area dedicated to the manufacture of surfboards using more environmentally friendly materi-als such as wood, recycled foam and low-VOC resins. Shapers include Pat Rawson, Larry Mabile, Stretch, Ryan Lovelace, and Brian Syzmanski.
2:30-5:00 P.M. Ojai Center for the Arts
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thedirector.chris malloy
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03.the boys behind the camera /director co∙op
headlining director chris malloy
director jason baffa
collaborations thomas campbell
collaborations emmett malloy
collaborations britton caillouette
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If you’ve ever wondered how life on a ranch could ever be applied to pro surfing or film-making, look no further than Chris, Keith & Dan Malloy. There are handfuls of high-profile surfing brother combos both past & present, but few have impacted the sport with as much hard work, determination, individuality and self-sufficiency as the three Wrangler poster boys from Ojai. The oldest of the three broth-ers, Chris is a creative big-picture visionary, & acts as the spark plug in the Malloy clan motor.
Another way to prove their value is to make it clear that they’re not just a bunch of country bumpkins who got lucky. They began working in film production, forming Moonshine Con-spiracy/Woodshed Films with cousin Emmett Malloy and Jack Johnson. 2000’s Thicker than Water won the 2000 Surfer Poll — the first in a stream of soulful releases like Shelter and Brokedown Melody—while 2009’s One Track Mind shifted gears to examine the psychology that connects competition.
Chris Malloy lives off the grid with his wife Carla, son Lucas and daughter Pearl and part of every day is spent with them growing greens, raising beef, hunting fish or wandering on the 15,000 acre ranch they live on in California. The oldest
of the three Malloy brothers, Chris looks at his filmamking ADD as a good thing, “I think its a brand of ‘crazy’ that fits me quite well. It just always seems like there is too much good stuff to do on this planet for one lifetime; I guess I can catch up on sleep when I’m dead.”
When it comes to the environment, Chris believes “You can’t be a surfer and not see the impact. Because you are dealing with a pure source that is next to streets and roads, it’s really obvious to see where the trash & dirty water come from. As Chris learns more about sustainable environmental practices he’s trying to implement them more and more into his life. He’s also learning more about organic gardening and composting by keeping a garden at home with his wife.
Chris believes that “The best things in life are the simplest things. Sometimes I ask myself why I paddle out, catch a wave and paddle back out, over and over again, like a dog? It just feels good—simple as that.”
chris malloy.big wave surfer turned big picture visionary
director bio /chris malloy
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The Malloys are a family of surfers, filmmakers, musi-cians and ranchers, the current generation of which have been emblematic for close to two decades in the popular consciousness of surf culture. But for all that, each of the family members’ agile feet is placed firmly on the earth and in the here & now. They are good ol’ boys. Forget that saying as cliché. They really are good ol’ boys.
The land that extends to all points around us here in this century-old house is part of a rancho that sprawls some fifteen thousand acres around the southern extremity of the Los Padres National Forest. Governed by the same family for over 200 years, the place is part of an America that existed before America was America. As such, it represents a state of being that is ebbing into memory & whose lifestyle you wouldn’t guess still exists. I’ve come here to get to the bottom of the importance of being Malloy. Soon I’ll go to meet Yvon Chouinard, the boss of Patagonia. Recently, Chouinard and the Malloys began to work together to develop the ocean-borne side of one of the most progressive, influential and environmentally focused companies on the planet. They are brand ambas-sadors; call them evolutionary throw-aheads or as yet rare, emerging examples of a new breed of professional surfer. Call them the cutting edge of the outdoorsman as practi-cal, proactive custodian of nature. Whatever you choose to call them, the brothers Malloy are vastly experienced media practitioners in their own right. Chris is at the time we meet in the closing stages of post-production of his film 180 Degrees South, a piece that takes a body of work
that includes Shelter & Thicker Than Water into newly broken, environmentally campaigning territory. After a long, hard-charging career as a free-range pro surfer who was only rarely expected to compete & be a poster child for board shorts, he has focused all his energies these last few months into creating something that transcends the surf film genre.
dan malloy on brother chris: Chris is the most creative and the most motivated of us all. He’s kind of a leader. If it weren’t for Chris, I’d have dug a lot more ditches in my life. I mean that literally as well as figuratively. I think that’s true for Keith, too. Chris helped us figure out a way that we could make a living through surfing. I think that figuring out the things you want to do is a great place to put your creative energies. Being creative doesn’t neces-sarily mean that you have to be an artist putting on artsy shows. Figuring out the things that you really want to do, and figuring out how to work with people whilst keeping the vision true and consistent, that can be as creative as anything else.
keith malloy on brother chris: Chris has been addicted to doing creative things since he was a kid. Whether it was telling a crazy story or dressing up like Evil Knievel. We got our first VHS video camera one Christmas in the eighties, and Chris just played with it until it broke a couple years later. He’s just had that creative thing ingrained in him from day one.”
an interview by Michael Fordham
director bio /chris malloy∙ interview
chris malloy.transcending the surf film genre.
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In the mid-1990s, the California filmmaker Chris Malloy had a dream pad on Oahu, Hawaii, with his brothers, Keith and Dan. The three would swim Waimea Bay, run the beach, and do a bouldering traverse. Malloy befriended another surfer/climber, Jeff Johnson, who moved in and built a climbing wall. Soon climbers and wave-chasers like Randy Leavitt and Hidetaka Suzuki were stopping in to pull plastic.
In 2007 and 2008, Malloy and Johnson teamed up for a six-month sailing, surfing, climbing, and filmmaking odyssey that began in California and ended in Chilean Patagonia. Chris Malloy, a Patagonia ambassador and big-wave surfer with three surf films under his belt, would direct the film; Jeff Johnson would be the protagonist & expedition photographer.
Today Malloy, 38, lives in a rental home on a 15,000-acre ranch near Point Conception, California, with his wife, Carla, and kids, Lucas and Pearl. It’s this agrarian, “respectfully work the land” perspective that informs his film, which also recounts the stories of Yvon Chouinard and Doug and Kris Tompkins, and their heroic efforts to preserve the Patagonian wilds through Conservacion Pata-gonica, 2.2 million acres bought in Chile and Argentina to be turned into national parks.
Malloy usually says he’s a “surfer first and foremost,” though he began climbing in high school, in Ojai, California, with the underground hardcore Will Nazarian. “I was one of
the only surfers in this school of jocks, and Will was the only climber,” says Malloy. “So we’d ditch school, steal a six-pack, and screw around on Will’s homemade climbing gym.” In 1997, Malloy suffered a catastrophic knee injury at the Pipeline, Hawaii, and transitioned to filmmaking, though he’s never left the waves behind.
do you still big-wave surf? Yes. It’s always been my biggest surfing passion. It’s like those alpine climbers, where it’s an addiction almost, an affliction. You don’t pick doing that to yourself — it picks you, and then you’re stuck with it.
how’s the shift to filmmaking been? Great creatively, though missing some of those swells is hard. It’s satisfying to . . . share the way I see things. I’ve always tried to step out of the way and let the experience speak for itself — like in 180° South, when you see those guys climbing the NA Wall or someone getting a big, beautiful wave.
how did you prep for filming mishaps? We said, well, if Jeff needs to get from A to B, he’s got this amount of time and these are all the things that could happen. And everything we said could happen didn’t, & a bunch of stuff happened that we never predicted. Stop-ping on Easter Island for a month to fix the mast, that wasn’t planned. And the FA of Cerro Geezer, that wasn’t part of the plan, but Doug and Yvon were, like, we tried it last year, let’s try it again.
an interview by Matt Samet
the climber embarks on a filmmaking tripto patagonia
director bio /chris malloy∙ interview
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what do you hope viewers will see? Live for what you love, and protect it. In the Golden Era of climbing and surfing, you could cut and run — take the good part, ignore the bad stuff, and then go to the next spot. Also, that some of the most important places to protect are the places we already live.
and your conservation philosophy? Doug Tompkins understands that it’s not a 100 percent leave-it-alone mentality. He’s got cattle ranches down [in Patagonia]. He’s farming. He’s using the land, not just buying it and saying to the gauchos, and the farmers, and the fishermen, ‘Beat it — we’re going to turn this into an enviro-theme-park for rich people to come take walks!’ That’s something I feel strongly about — that the [zero-usage] model isn’t going to work over the long term.
your film points out that we’re distant from the impacts of our lifestyles. have you seen other examples of this? The way I started seeing those connections was, I’d be on a little island chain in Southeast Asia. And I was literally watching the introduction of cigarettes and Coca-Cola. I’d fly home, and 48 hours later I’d hear on the news that X cigarette company and X soda-pop company are doing better than ever. And you go, ‘Well, huh. I know one reason. . . ’ They’re going to these places where people live as subsistence farmers, and they’re dropping off boxes of cigarettes for free; a few months later, people are selling the farm to get their smokes.
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d7.13an interview by DailyStoke.com
Normally when surfers make a trip that requires the participating of the airlines, they bring their quiver along with them, packed in board bags wrapped just so, such that airlines like Delta don’t wreck them. In the case of Single Fin: Yellow, a film by Jason Baffa, the board itself did the travel. We interviewed Jason Baffa about his experiences on Single Fin: Yellow and its off-spring, One California Day, which he produced with co-conspirator, Mark Jeremias.
The first question on my mind was where he got the concept for making the board do the work, which is an original concept for a surfing flicks. As Baffa explains: “The con-cept of one object being the focus of a movie has always interested me, ever since I started my filmmaking as a kid with a Super 8 camera. The board is just as much of the filmmaking craft as the film itself. At the time of ‘Single-fin’ I wanted to capture longboarding in a cinematic way.”
Baffa & Hatzikian’s collaboration on the project came from the convenient fact that they surf together. Says Baffa: “We connected early on, with surfing nostalgia & the concept of both surfboard shaping & filmmaking as being a craft. We appreciate each others’ work.” The film features surfing footage with surfer & shaper Tyler Hatzikian, Aussie logger Beau Young, pro logging champ and noted Hot Wahine, Daize Shayne, exceedingly tall and skilled Japanese surfer David Kinoshita, editor of Longboard mag Devon Howard & Hawaiian pro logger, Bonga Perkins, each of whom takes a turn sharing the board. Finding the surfers featured in Single Fin: Yellow was not a challenge for Baffa. “It was really organic. I
was doing event coverage for [tv show] Blue Torch so I knew some of the surfers from that. I wanted to explore their lives personally and I wanted the film to be multicul-tural. I wanted these guys to be like hosts of a show.” Not a bad show after all!
In his followup film with Mark Jeremias, Baffa and Jer-emias spread out over the coast to showcase surfers from SoCal to NoCal and everywhere in between, in all condi-tions and with every manner of surfer, from Joel Tudor to Al Knost and Jimmy Gamboa. The results are nothing short of epic. The music, let alone the surfing, rocks. Says Baffa: “I found the pieces through a commercial-free radio station, KCRW.” Any serious surfer can appreciate the beauty of Jason Baffa’s films, Single Fin: Yellow and One California Day. The scenery is stunning, the surfing is fantastic (and yet calming at the same time), and the story told is as important as The Endless Summer. In the case of One California Day, a film he shot with Mark Jeremias, it is perhaps even more important, as Baffa and Jeremias are the first modern-day filmmakers to take a fresh look at real surfers and real surfing in California.
That grainy look that you see in One California Day and Single Fin: Yellow stems from the fact that Baffa & his team shot the films in 16 mm film, as opposed to digital video. Why did he do that? “Masochism,” Baffa says with a laugh. “I went to film school & wanted to make movies long before that. The interest in storytelling started for me when my grandmother gave me an 8mm camera.”
director bio /jason baffa∙ interview
jason baffa: on one california day and singlefin yellow.
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04.here’s to now film lineup /synopsis & reviews
2010 180 degrees south
2008 one track mind
2004 a brokedown melody
2001 shelter
2000 thicker than water
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180 south:Conquerors of the Useless
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Chris Malloy’s film strikes so deeply into the heart of Patagonia’s wilderness we come to feel at home there. 180° South: Conquerors of the Useless follows Jeff Johnson as he retraces the epic 1968 journey of his heroes Yvon Chouinard and Doug Tompkins to Patagonia. Along the way he gets shipwrecked off Eas-ter Island, surfs the longest wave of his life – and prepares himself for a rare ascent of Cerro Corcovado. Jeff’s life turns when he meets up in a rainy hut with Chouinard and Tompkins who, once driven purely by a love of climbing and surfing, now value above all the experience of raw nature—and have come to Patagonia to spend their fortunes to protect it.
synopsis featuring
Yvon Chouinard, Doug Tompkins, & Jeff Johnson. With surfing by Keith Malloy, Timmy O’Neill, Ramon Navarro and Alicia Ika Acuna.
Music by Jack Johnson, Eddie Vedder, Beta Band, Kings of Conve-nience, Doug Martsch, Kruder and Dorfmeister, Astor Piazolla, Mikey Einziger, Johnny Osbourne, M. Ward, Matt Costa, Culver City Dub Collective, Todd Hannigan, Xocoy-otzin and more.In addition to the film’s gentle activism comes a lovely perspective on life and
our orientation to consumption that almost feels like antidote to the destruc-tive “progress” that bests the explorers’ paths.
reviews
—sara vizcarrondo Boxoffice Magazine
If we’re going to keep getting documentaries about the environment—and let’s face it, we are—180 Degrees South suggests an original way to structure them.
—chris hewitt St. Paul Pioneer Press
While it has several overlapping narratives, at its core, 180 Degrees South is a story about searching for meaning beyond adventure, and about the impor-tance of fighting to protect natural places
—kyle cassidy Wend Magazine
If you like a good story with a message of responsible eco-tourism, beautiful footage, and a great, mellow soundtrack, then I think you’ll enjoy this film. Be warned, though. After watching this film, you may find yourself packing for “destination unknown” and heading to sea on a boat of your own.
—t.c. worley Gear Junkie
here’s to now film lineup
180 south:Conquerors of the Useless
/180° South
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yvon chouinarddoug tompkins jeff johnson
A revolutionary blacksmith, climber, environmentalist and businessman. He has contributed significantly to the sport of climbing through its commu-nity and its technical equipment with his companies Black Diamond and Patagonia Clothing Company. His initial writing covered climbing issues and ethics, but more recently has delved into how to mix environmen-talism with sound business practices.
This concept of a slow company is explored in Yvon’s latest book “Let My People Go Surfing.” Yvon’s reluctance to give in to the stereotypical capitalist business has been an inspiration to some of the top CEO’s in America, even influencing Wal-Mart to make the shift to organic cotton. Constant-ly challenging the status quo, Yvon is a living example of why breaking the rules every once in a while is defi-nitely not such a bad thing. His story has been told to the masses through everything from the cover of Fortune magazine to being featured by Tom Brokaw on the nightly news. He is truly poised to have his life story told through a feature documentary.
Best friend of Chouinard, Doug Tompkins is a mountain climber, Deep Ecologist, and forward think-ing businessman. Tompkins was the founder of The North Face and co-owner of the ESPRIT clothing company. After reading the book Deep Ecology: Living as if Nature Mattered, Tompkins sold his share of Esprit, and began concentrating all of his energy on the defense of nature. Beginning with a purchase 1,000 acres of forest in Chile, Doug & his wife Kris have expanded this reserve to a massive 2.2 million acres in both Chile and Argentina.
Doug has never desired to keep the land privatized. His intention has always been to return the land to the government as a national park. As if land preservation was not enough, Doug also is adept bush pilot and organic farmer.
Jeff Johnson embodies the spirit of the “Everyman” —a guy who works a nine to five job so that he can disappear now and then to Yosemite for a climb or mainland Mexico to surf. Jeff is a talented and published writer, photographer, and is well regarded in the outdoor community as a blue collar guy that does it for all the right reasons.
His recent book, Bend to Baja: A Biofuel Powered Surfing and Climb-ing Road Trip, chronicles a trip he took with his friends down to the tip of Baja. Jeff’s other writings and photographs have appeared in The Surfer’s Journal, Surfer’s Path, Alpin-ist, Surfing and Surfer Magazine.
here’s to now film lineup /the crew
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Chilean surf pro Ramon Navarro was born at the famous point break Punta de Lobos in a traditional Chilean fishing shack known as a “ruca”. He is one of Chile’s first professional surf-ers, and has a reputation for seeking out and riding giant surf, whether in his home country of Chile or around the globe. The son of a fisherman, Ramon also maintains a strong pas-sion for protecting precious coastal resources in Chile and beyond.
Ramon has worked closely with Save The Waves in Chile, and in 2007 he was instrumental in rallying commu-nity opposition against a proposed sewage pipeline that would have dumped sewage into the ocean just offshore of Pichilemu’s main surfing beach. He also has appeared as a surfer & activist in several Save The Waves film projects. He joins the surf ambassador program to galvanize opposition to coastal pollution from Chile’s pulp industry & a proposed coal-burning power plant located in front of one of his favorite big wave spots, the recently discovered Santos del Mar.
timmy o’neill keith malloyramon navarro
Keith Malloy left the world champion-ship surfing tour to chase giant waves around the world. He is an icon in the surfing community because of his style and embodiment of “old school” ways. After catching the wave of his life (a Sixty-foot ride at Maverick’s) he couldn’t refuse the invitation to visit a region of the world that has never been surfed or climbed. He dons a beard full time, makes crazy Baja trips in his grease-powered truck and icy cold surf trips to Can-ada with bears. He is a world-class bodysurfer, barehand lobster grabber, and power surfer. But still finds time volunteering with Surf Aid, an organization that promotes aware-ness about malaria to small tribes in Indonesia. When Keith speaks, you undoubtedly listen because, despite his age, he has seen it all.
Timmy O’Neill is a world-class mountaineer who experienced a life-changing climbing tragedy months before the filming of 180° South. He is the founder of the non-profit organization Paradox Sports, which provides inspiration, opportuni-ties, and adaptive equipment to the disabled community. As a speaker at outdoor sporting events and a world traveler, Timmy is best known for his irreverent humor and quick wit. His mouth isn’t the only thing running, however, as Timmy holds several speed-climbing records from Yosem-ite to Tierra del Fuego.
here’s to now film lineup /180° South
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One Track Mind is the latest film from the creative collaborative Woodshed Films, formerly The Moonshine Conspiracy. One Track Mind explores the technical side and ambitious nature of surfing’s most competitive individuals and their drive to push the limits and succeed. Shot on 16mm, the film spans generations and styles in search of the common thread that makes them the best. The most influential people in modern surfing tell stories about their best boards, the surfers they hail and the waves they live to ride.
synopsis featuring
Surfing by Wayne Rabbit Bar-tholomew, Kelly Slater, Andy Irons, Tom Curren, Mark Occhilupo, Mick Fanning, Joel Parkinson, Taj Burrow, Julian Wilson, Dane Reynolds, Jamie O’Brien, Fred Patacchia, Sunny Garcia, CJ Hobgood, Jordy Smith, Evan Geiselman, Luke Davis, Kolohe Andino, Keanu Asing and Dane Kealoha
Music by The Racontuers, The Shins, The Black Keys, Sigur Ros, Bon Iver, Andrew Bird, Rogue Wave, Panda Bear, Fleet Foxes, G, Love and more
One Track Mind is 36 minutes of pure heart and guts. It’s a must see for any surfer interested in what goes on inside the minds of the top surfers on the World Tour (and those groms getting ready to make a run for it.)
reviews
—eddie sparks Daily Stoke
One Track Mind is a perfectly balanced mix between interviews with top surf-ers, as well as footage of barrels, aerials and more barrels.
—chris harbor Flixter.com
One Track Mind‘s soundtrack is perfect for the film—not overbearing, and just makes you want to grab your board and go.
—rick barry Somethingelsereviews.com
Instead of a series of soulful, cerebral retreats to surfing’s unfettered back-woods, Malloy dives smack dab into the lives of the best surfers the world has ever seen, puts the camera on them and asks some tough questions. He “explores the common thread that drives the most influential surfers from three generations to push wave riding to new dimensions.”
—jack ashby Surfer Magazine
here’s to now film lineup /One Track Mind
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A Brokedown Melody, directed by Chris Malloy, takes us on a journey through Jamaica, Hawaii, Indonesia, Tahiti, South America and Mexico, where waves are plentiful and crowds are extremely hard to find, which in no way is a bad thing. This surfing movie follows a tribe of surfers and they’re journey and experiences while they surf insanely good waves on all sorts of boards, and the stoke they get when they pass it down on to the next generation.
synopsis featuring
Surfing by Kelly Slater, Tom Curren, Gerry Lopez, Rob Machado, The Malloys, CJ Hobgood, Jack Johnson and others.
Music by Jack Johnson, Eddie Vedder, Beta Band, Kings of Conve-nience, Doug Martsch, Kruder and Dorfmeister, Astor Piazolla, Mikey Einziger, Johnny Osbourne, M. Ward, Matt Costa, Culver City Dub Collective, Todd Hannigan, Xocoy-otzin and more.
We journey inward to learn what makes the sport so special to a select few. This often works to the film’s advantage, simply allowing the beautiful scenery and well-shot footage to speak for itself.
reviews
—randy miller DVD Talk
Despite the promoted spirituality, though, A Broke Down Melody never seems preachy or overbearing. It simply is what it is, drawing viewers in with simplic-ity and letting them stick around for awhile.
—chris thatcher Surfers Paradise
The vibe is present on the soundtrack to A Brokedown Melody, a vibe that is maintained by a style of music that isn’t necessarily idleness, but just enjoying to the fullest extent simple rhythms and melodies.—paul bozzo Treblezine.com
My favorite feel good sequence is showing a 8 year old Indonesian boy surfing a broken surfboard with a single little fin stuck into it. This, if anything was needed, really makes you appreciate all the privileges that we have.—josh einsle BBC
here’s to now film lineup /A Brokedown Melody
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Rob Machado and Shane Dorian transform an old Australian farmhouse into a surfers’ commune in this film, which banishes all commercial and competitive aspects of the sport. Content to merely soak up the atmosphere, surfers Kelly Slater, Joel Tudor, Mick Fanning and many others hang out at the refuge.
synopsis featuring
Surfing by Rob Machado, Taylor Knox, Joel Tudor, Mick Fanning, Dean Morrison, Jack Johnson, The Malloys, Kelly Slater, Conan Hayes, Nathan Webster, Nat Young, Hans Hagen, Joe Curren, Mike Todd, Pascal Stansfeild, Brad Gerlach, Ben Bourgeois, Donavon F., Ross Williams, Brit Caillouette, Shane Dorian, Malia Jones, Jon Swift, and Luke Stedman.
Shelter is one of Taylor Steele and Chris Malloy’s best productions. This surf movie does a great job of staying far away from the politics of surfing and focuses more on soul surfing.
reviews
—chris miller TheSurfingBlog.com
Shelter will not only get you pumped to go out and have one of the best surf sessions of your life, but it will also leave you pondering about surfing and what it really means to you.
—andy reckers Surfers Paradise
The whole thing feels like more of a movement than a surf film. The film car-ries the spirit of Thicker Than Water and September Sessions, however it has a texture and vision all it’s own. —paul ackerman ActionSportsVideos.com
Shelter is full of inspiring thoughts and stories from several of the featured surfers. It was shot on 16mm film, giving the entire movie a really pleasing and unique style. Filmed on location in so many amazing places, Chris Malloy and Taylor Steele do a great job of highlighting the surf spots and surfers without actually placing captions on the screen.
—joshua awlkward The Surfer’s Journal
here’s to now film lineup /Shelter
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Thicker Than Water is a collection of images and memories that started with the first time we stood on the deck of a surfboard, and ends with an 18 month journey through the North Atlantic, South Pacific, and the Bengal.
synopsis featuring
Surfing by Rob Machado, Kelly Slater, Brad Gerlach, Shane Dorian, The Malloy Brothers, and others.
Thicker Than Water is a classic, and definitely belongs in any self-respecting surf video collection. The film focuses on the element of the family and friend-ship involved in surfing.
reviews
—haley gordon The Surfing Handbook
There’s a fun section where a number of different surfers all try to use this green singlefin board. It’s a great comparison of styles and approaches to surf-ing. Good mix of “local” breaks and perfect Indonesian tubes.
—andy byron Surfers Paradise
Thicker Than Water offers an excellent mix of ethnically inspired folk, techno, soul, bluegrass, vocal and instrumental. Synched up with the music expertly, the wave sections are excellent: never too quick or too long.—ashley errans Music Afficionada
Combining vivid 16mm film, matured “Momentum Generation” surfers like Dorian, Slater and Machado, prime waves from Indo to Ireland, and a Jack Johnson-influenced soundtrack destined to become a stand-alone album, this film staked claim on a whole new era in surf filmmaking; one of the most re-watchable shred flicks out there.
—bradley barker Listropolis.com
thicker than water
here’s to now film lineup /Thicker Than Water
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