herbal hair formulations and their biological...
TRANSCRIPT
Chapter 8
HERBAL HAIR FORMULATIONS AND THEIR
BIOLOGICAL ACTIVITIES
GENERAL ABOUT HAIRS, MATERIALS AND METHODS, OBSERVATIONS,
RESLHLTS AND REFERENCES
ABOUT HAIRS
Hair are protective appendages on the body. They remain on one or other
part o f body from the time of birth to death. People who carry luxuriant and
lustrous hair are regarded as young and beautiful. Hair is derived from
surface ectoderm skin. As the site where a hair follicle is to form, the germinal
layer o f epidermis proliferates to form a cylindrical mass, that grows down
into dermis. The lower and o f this down growth becomes expended and is
invaginated by a condensation of mesoderm, which forms papilla. The hair
itself is formed by proliferation o f germinal cells overiying the papilla. As the
hair grows the surface, the cell overlying the papilla. As the hair grows the
surface, the cell forming the wall o f the down growth surrounded it, a typical
hair follicle is formed. A hair has a root (bulb or Knob), a shaft and a tip. That
portion of hair which lies in the follicle is known as hair root. It is surrounded
by loose connective tissues known as root sheath. The root lies in the dermis.
The shaft grows from it and projects out side the skin. The distal end o f the
shaft is known as hair tip.
Types of hair
Three types o f hair are known in m a n : lanugo, vellus, and term ina l hair.
Lanugo hair is soft and thin, without medulla, and can be o f variable length. It
is the hair o f the fetus and in postnatal life is replaced by vellus or terminal
hair; only premature infants have lanugo hain
Vellus hair is soft and short, usually not longer than 2 cm, . often colourless, it
is the general surface hair.
Terminal hair is large and coarse, endowed with medulla and pigment, and
can vary in length, at birth it is found as scalp hair; eyebrows, and,
eyelashes. During life the same follicle can prpduce vellus hair
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terminal hair later; this is the normal behaviour of the axilla hair of children of both sexes and of the hair of the beard in the male at puberty, which under the stimulus of the sexual hormones undergo the transformation from vellus to terminal hair.
In male-pattern baldness terminal follicles regress and give origin to vellus hair. In many areas of the body both terminal and vellus hair is present in varying amounts: chest, trunk, and shoulder hair of men is more than 90% temiinal hair, while in women it is less than 35% temriinal hair.
H ya lin e B a s e n e n t f-tembranf
M e ia n o c '/ te "
-O u t e r R oo t S heath
-------- C u t id e o l InnerR o o tS tw a th
-------- H u x le y 's La ye r
Henks's L a y e r ,
InnerR ootS heath
P o o l o f Uodfffetefitiated Ceito in Shaft
F ib ro u s S N H lf i V
Pari’ia
Plate 8.1 Normal Hair follicle
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Hair
The hair consists o f three zone : cuticle, cortex and medulla. The cuticle is the
outer zone consisting of scales and form a certain characteristic pattern. The
scales are flattened with serrated edges and surrounded the shaft completely
forming a coronal pattern.
The hair cuticle located peripheral to the hair cortex, consists overlapping
cells arranged lil<e shingles and pointing upward with their peripheral portion.
The cells of the hair cuticle are tightly interlocked with the cells o f inner root
sheath cuticle, resulting in the firm attachment o f the hair to its inner root
sheath. The hair and inner root sheath thus move upward in unison.
The inner sheath is composed of three concentric layers; from the inside to
the outside, these are the inner root sheath cuticle, the Huxley layer and the
Henley layer. None of these three layers contains melanin. All the three
layers keratinize, unlike the cells o f the hair cortex and of the hair cuticle, by
means o f trichohyaline granules. Closest to the hair is the single-layered
inner root sheath cuticle, consisting o f flattened overlapping cells that point
downward in the direction o f the hair bulb. Since the cells o f the hair cuticle
point upward, these two type o f cells interlock tightly. Trichohyaline granules
are few In the inner root sheath cuticle cells. The Huxley layer, which usually
consists o f two rows of the cells, develops numerous trichohyaline granules at
the level o f the keratogenous zone of the hair. The Henley layer, only one cell
layer thick and first layer to undergo keratinization, already shows numerous
trichohyaline granules at its emergence from the matrix.
The outer roots sheath extends upwards from the matrix cells at the lower
and o f the hair bulb to the entrance of the sebaceous duct, where it changes
in to surface epidermis, which lines the upper portion, or inflindibulum, of the
hair follicle. The outer root sheath is thinnest at the level o f hair bulb,
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gradually increases In thickness and is thickest in the middle portion of the
hair follicle, the isthmus. In Its lower portion, below the isthmus, the outer
roots sheath is covered by inner root sheath and does not undergo
keratinization. The outer root sheath cells have a clear vacuolated cytoplasm
because of the presence o f considerable amounts o f glycogen. In contrast to
the surface epidermis lining the infundibulum, which contains active, melanin-
producing melanocytes in its basal layer, the basal layer o f the outer root
sheath contains only inactive amelanotic melanocytes demonstrable with
toluidine blue. However, these inactive melanocytes can become melanin-
producing cells after skin injuries, such a dermabrasion, when they increase
in number and migrate upward into the regenerating upper portion of the
outer root sheath and into the regenerating epidermis (Staricoo, 1960). In the
middle portion o f the hair follicle, the so called isthmus which extends
upwards from the attachment o f the errector pili muscle to the entrance of
sebaceous duct, the outer root sheath is no longer covered by inner root
sheath, which by then has keratinized and disintegrated. The outer root
sheath, therefore, undergoes keratinization. This type of keratinization,
referred to as trichilemmal keratinization (PInkus, 1969), produces large,
homogenous keratinized cells without the formation o f keratohyaline granules.
Trichilemmmal keratinization is found also in catagen and telogen hair and in
trichilemmal cysts and trichilemmal tumors.
The upper portion o f the hair follicle above the entrance of the sebaceous
duct, the infundibulum, is line by surface epidermis, which, like the sebaceous
duct, undergoes keratinization with the formation of keratohyaline granules.
The glassy or vitreous layer forms a homogeneous, eosinophillic zone
peripheral to the outer root sheath. It is thickest around the lower third o f hair
follicle. Peripheral to the vitrous layer lies fibrous root sheath which is
composed o f thick collagen bundles.
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Cortex - The Cortex is the middle zone of varying thickness and consists of
longitudinal keratin fibres and varying amount of pigments. The size, shape,
distribution and density of pigment granules along the shaft determine colour
of hair.
It consists of cells that, during their upward growth from hair matrix,
keratinize gradually by losing their nuclei and becoming filled with keratinized •
fibrils. The process of keratinization takes place without the formation of
kertohyaline granules, as seen in the kertainizing epidermis, or of trichohyline
granules, as seen in inner root sheath. Thus, the keratin of the hair cortex
represents hard keratin, in contrast to keratin of the Inner root sheath, which
line that of epidermis, represents soft keratin.
Medulla - The medulla is the inner zone known as medullary canal, the
central shaft, the root hair has the appearance similar to that of shaft, except
that it is enlarged in the form of bulb or knob. The hair medulla of human hair
Is often difficult to find by routine light microscopy, since it may be
discontinuous or even absent. It is more readily recognizable by the
poiariscopic examination, since, unlike the cortex, the only partially
keratinized medulla contains hardly any doubly refractile structure. If the
medulla is seen by the light microscopy in human hair. It appears amorphous
because of only partial keratinization.
Keratin is a collagenous fibrous protein that make hair. It Is found as coiled
coil of a -helices. The amino acids such as glycine, alanine, valine, leucine,
proline, crystine, glutamic acid, aspartic acid, argenine and lysine occur to the
extents of 1,4,3,13,15,7,10 and 3% in keratin protein, respectively.
Melanin is the principal pigment responsible for the colour of human hair, and
acts as filter that decreases the harmful effects of ultraviolet light providing
protection against environmentally induceid premature ageing. It is a polymer
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formed by the oxidation of tyrosine by tyrosinanse to dihydroxyphenylamine
(dopa) within melanocytes. The chemical units which predominate these
meianins are o f the indole type, formed from tyrosine and dopa precursors.
In ageing persons, the melanin -producing cells gradually stop working, and
as a result hair turn white. The hair seems grey when white hair are seen
against the still-pigmented dark hair.
Hair color and texture are racial characteristics and genetically determined.
The yellow-brown mongol race has black straight hair. The negroid have
black, curly hair and the caucasoids have fair, brown, red or black hair.
C o m p o s it io n o f A n im a l h a ir
Because of the insoluble nature of keratinikzed hairs, the determination of
their composition by solubilization and extraction of the component proteins in
undegraded forms has posed many problems. Methods used have involved
either the breaking o f disulphide bonds or the hydrolysis of peptide bonds.
The former has received by far the most attention, and can be achieved by
reduction, which produces soluble kerateines by oxidation, which produces
soluble keratoses or by sulfitolysis (Crewther, 1976; Fletcher and
Buchanan, 1977). Reoxidation o f the -SH groups in kerateines can be
blocked by alkylation; for this iodoacetate is commonly used, producing S -
carboxymethylkerateines (SCMK). Many procedures have been devised for
the extraction o f proteins from reduced or oxidized wool and hair.
The soluble proteins extracted from wool and hair have been factionated into
three main groups : (a) low-sulphur proteins, e.g., SCMKA and a -keratose,
with sulphur contents less than the original wool or hiar ; (b) high -sulphur
proteins, e.g., SCMKB and y -keratose, with sulphur contents greater than
the original woo! or hair; and (c) high -glycine -tyrosine proteins (Brunner et
a/.,1971; Gillespie 1972) rich in glycine and tyrosine. Knowledge of these
275
proteins has improved with the development of high resolution methods of
one-and two-dimensional electrophoresis, listed by Gillespie (1983).
Low -sulphur SCMKA proteins extracted from several species of hair and
quill and different breeds of wool have the same general pattern of amino-
acid composition (Gillespie, 1983), Part of the variation observed in the
proportions o f S -carboxymethyl cysteine, proline, glycine and tyrosine is-
attributable to the presence of small amounts of contaminating high -sulphur
and high-glycine -tyrosine proteins, which are difficult to remove completely
from low-sulphur proteins (Gillespie, 1983), Components o f SCMKA from
guinea pig hair are homologous with components from rabbit hair (Shechter
e ta U 969).
When the sulphur content of wool Is increased by abomasal infusion of
sulphur-containing amino acids (Reis and SchlnckeJ, 1963), the high-sulphur
proteins are increased in amount the increase being in those components
with the highest sulphur content (Gillespie, 1983). These ultra-high-sulphur
proteins are not peculiar to sheep, but have also been isolated from hair of
11 Arf/odacty/a species (Lindley ef a/.. 1971).
With improvements in techniques, amino acid sequences have been
determined on several sub-units of the low-sulphur proteins and on a number
o f components o f the high -sulphur and high -glycine -tyrosine proteins of
wool (Lindiey, 1977; Parry, 1979; Crewther of a/., 1980; Gillespie, 1983),
Factors affecting hair growth
■/, H orm onal effects on hair growth are exhibited in various wayis including
changes in the onset and duration of anagen, in the rate o f growrth and
thickness o f hair during anagen, In the length of telogen and in the release of
club hairs. The responses in hair growth obtained by removal of endocrine
276
glands and /or systemic administration of hormones also vary from species
to species.
The follicle changes involved in seasonal moulting, which has been shown by
various workers to be photoperiodic in origin and related to the reproductive
cycle, are considered to be mediated via the neuroendocrine system,
particularly in wild or primitive species (Johnson, 1976). Photoperiodism is ‘
also involved in the seasonal shedding of hair by domestic species, e.g., non-
equational breeds o f cattle, and in the annual rhythm of wool growth in
improved breeds of sheep (Hutchinson, 1976).
2. A low plane o f nutrition has been found to delay the seasonal shedding in
cattle and retards the sub-adult and adult moults in voles (Pinter, 1968). In
non-shedding sheep, e.g.. Merino, the effects of plane o f nutrition are many
and varied, as reviewed by (Ryder and Stephenson, 1968; Chapman e t
a/., 1973 and Allden, 1979). Poor nutrition can reduce follicle initiation and
development in the fetus, impair postnatal follicle maturation in lambs, and
depress fleece weight, fibre length and fibre thickness in adult animals.
However, the nutrition has to be extremely poor before catagen and telogen
can be induced nutritionally in follicles in adult sheepl The protein, amino
acid, carbohydrate, fat, vitamin and mineral contents o f the diet can also
affect hair and wool growth in a variety o f ways, depending on whether there
is an excess or a deficiency.
3. Temperature has modifying effects on seasonal moulting. Low
temperature delays the spring moult in some wild species, appears to be
required for the growth of a white winter coat by the mountain hare,
increases the density of the winter pelage of wild species and the depth of the
winter coat of cattle and may stimulate the wool growth of shorn sheep (Ling,
1970; Hutchinson, 1976; Johnson, 1976; Bottomley, 1979),
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4. The effect of increase in age on the pelage o f various wild species has
been reviewed by Ling (1970). The establishment o f the adult pelage in some
species requires several moults, and sometimes one of these moults may be
omitted by animals born late in the breeding season. With increasing age the
patterns of the adult moults change. Likewise in the mouse the successive
hair waves change in pattem and becomes less frequent with age. In non:
shedding sheep, fleece weights are heaviest at ca. 3 Vs years of age and
subsequently decline together with fibre lengthy, while fibre thickness
increases with age. Also deterioration of staple crimp occurs in an increasing
proportion o f older sheep, due to abnormal cell proliferation and cyst
formation in the proximal outer root sheath of the follicles.
5. Among the most noticeable effects on hair growth produced by a variety
of exogenous chem icals are alopecia and change in pigmentation (Flesch,
1963; Ebling and Rook, 1968; Ippen. 1970; Chapman, 1980; Chapman et
a/.,1982). Attempts have been made to utilize chemically induced hair loss for
the biological harvesting o f wool (Chapman and Rigby, 1980; Moore et
a/.,1981; Hods e t a t.,1983) and for epilating Angora rabbits (Rougeot and
Thebault, 1970).
Effects of age on hair
About 70% o f men above the age o f 50 years face balding and greying of
hair. In some, these symptoms of age arrive much earlier. The new-born
babies usually possess hair that are fine, soft, downy, non-pigmented, non-
medulated and with smooth edged flattered scales. These get slowly
replaced by comparatively less fine pigmented, non-medulated and with a
more complex scale pattern. At about 14 years in the male and 13 years in
female, pubic hair begin to appear. The axillary hair appear a year later. In the
beginning, the growth of hair is sparse and its colour lighter. In about one or
two years, the growth of hair becomes thick and the colour darker. The sex
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hormones, collectively called the androgens e.g. dehydro epl-androsterone,
androstandione and testosterone secreted in female and testosterone,
dihydrotestosterone, progesterone, etc. in male show their relationship with
growth o f hair in normal individuals.
The growth o f hair at eyebrows and eyelashes are not dependent on
androgen. While axillary and lower pubic hair are sensitive to the small
amounts of androgen secreted by the adrenal glands. Hair in these regions,
therefore, grows approximately equally in men and women. Hair begin to
appear on the chin and upper lip in males between 16 to 18 years. Baldness
o f scalp is not of much value nor the graying of hair, except in a general way.
Greying starts on the scalp at about forty years first at the temples, followed
later by the beard and moustache and still later the chest. Axillary and pubic
hair never turn grey before fifty to sixty years. As age advances, scalp hair
become less dense in the male and there is loss o f axillary hair in the female.
The age at which a person's hair turns grey is largely decided by heredity. But
premature loss o f pigment in adults may be caused by a variety o f other
factors, including illness, certain drugs, worriness, even shock and it is
irreversible. However, if hair turns white In childhood, it can be a result o f
malfunction in the body and medical advice is called for. Vigorous bmshing
can cause hair splits, breaks or uprooting. Washing of hair is essential for
them to gleam with a healthy sheen.
Some com m on diseases o f hair
Protein energy malnutrition and parasitic diseases bring out stmctural
changes in the hair. Dandmff is caused by infection of Pityrosporum ovale.
Any inflammatory or destructive disease of the skin on scalp may destroy hair
follicles in its wake. Thus, burns, heavy X-ray irradiation, or ringworm
infections and similar other events rnay cause a scarring alopecia. Alopecia in
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the presence o f normal scalp skin may be patchy and localized or extensive
when the skin is diseased. Ring worm of the scalp is caused by fungal
infection and is most common in children. The disease causes oval areas of
baldness covered with short, broken-off lusterless hair stumps. Premature
hair loss or baldness in men is genetically determined and requires adequate
levels of circulating androgen for expression. Baldness in women occurs only
in old age. Hair are also lost due to the infection of lice.
Measurement of hair growth
The biological parameters which constitute the trichogram are :
1. Rate o f g ro w th ( - increase in length /10 days): A small area, about 0.05
cm^ of the region to be studied, is shaved with a razor. Ten days later, the
increase in length o f the shaved hairs is measured in situ using a
microscope with an ocular micrometer calibrated In 0.05 mm graduations.
Measurements are made by applying the instalment directly to the
patient's scalp. Since hair stumps stand erect, a glass slide is used to
flatten the hairs against the scalp. Three to five measurements are taken
and the results are averaged.
2. H a ir d e n s ity (number o f hairs /cm^). For this measurement a
microscope with a x 60 magnification is used with eye piece markings for
1/20 cm^ areas. Lateral illumination is provided by a light source
connected to the base of the microscope. Hairs are counted in a given
number o f fields (three to five) and the results are averaged and
expressed as the number of haire /cm^. When the density Is to be
determined in regions of lower hair density (axilla, pubis, etc.) the study of
this parameter Is performed with an eyepiece marked with a 1 cm^ area .
3. State o f h a ir cyc le : For this determination hairs are plucked off using
forceps whose jaws are wrapped with adhesive tape. This facilitates
280
grasping o f hairs of different thickness. The proximal root segments o f the
hairs are cut, placed over a slide, and covered with a drop o f Canadian
balsam and a cover glass. The different phases of the hair cycle are
identified and counted under the microscope.
Another method for determination of the phases {i.e., "state") of the cycle
is bleaching o f the hairs. Under the effect of hydrogen peroxide in alkaline'
medium, the proximal parts of the hair shafts are bleached in their visible
extension from the skin. Bleaching involves hairs in different stages of
the cycle.
Hair nourishment and grooming
Hair nourishment and grooming aids have become increasingly popular
throughout the world. Preparations available in the market for men include
hair creams, liquid brilliantines, pomades and solid brilliantines, tonics,
lotions and conditioners and for women wave sets, hair sprays, special rinses
and lotions, brilliantines and conditioners. There are number o f herbal
plants, utilized in hair care formulations. Examples are given below.
The herbal plants which are used in hair-care formulations can be classified
in the following groups :
(I) Plants used as lia ir cleanser (ii) Plants used as ha ir dyeing agent
(ill) Plants used as anti dandru ff and (Iv) Plants used as ha ir ton lc /ha ir
health p rom otion o f grow th.
(i) P lants used as ha ir cleanser
(a) A cac ia co n c in n a (Shikakai). Ground pod wall is boiled in water and
resulting soapy water, is used as a hair cleanser.
281
(b) C ydonia o b lo n g a (Bihi). The mucilage of cleaned seeds is extracted with
hot water and used as a shampoo.
(c) S ap indus m u k o rro s s i (Ritha). Fruit coat is boiled in water and the soapy
water thus obtained is used as a natural shampoo
(d) TrigoneUa foenum -g raecum (Methi). Seeds in coarse powdered form
are boiled in water and filtrate is used as an ingredient o f natural
shampoos.
(11) Plants used as hair dyeing agent
(a) A cacia a rab ica (Kikkar). Fresh or dried leaves are made into aqueous
paste and applied as a pack to hair of head as such or after mixing with
coffee, babul bark extract (Cassia nilotica), Katha (Acacia catechu) and
walnut fruit shell extract (Juglans regia) to impart shades o f colours
varying from red to dark brown.
(b) C ydonia o b lon g a (Bihi). The seeds mucilage paste with sesame oil is
applied on the head to dye the hair.
(c) E clip ta a lba (Bhringraj). Dried aqueous extract o f whole plant, mixed with
sesame oil and subbed on hair to dye the hair.
(d) H aem atoxy lon cam pech ianum (Patang). Dried aqueous extract o f wood
(1 kg) with 10 0 ml o f sesame oil is used for hair drying.
(e) H ib iscu s ro sa s in e n s is (Gudhal). Its dried alcoholic extract of leaves is
mixed with other ingredients, henna catechu, coffee, amla, jatamansi, etc.
and applied on hair to impart shades to colour from dark brown to
blackish brown.
282
(f) J u g la n s reg ia (Akhrot). Its fresh or dried leaves or dried bark or hulls of
fruits are made into aqueous paste with other material, e.g., Katha {Acacia
Catectiu), Coffee ( ) , etc. and applied as a paste to hair. It produces red to
dark brown shades of colour to hair.
(g) Law son ia in e rm is (Henna). Fresh or dried leaves are made into
aqueous paste and applied as a pack to hair after mixing with coffee( ),'
Catechu {Acacia catechu) wall nut fmit shell extract, babul bark extract
(Cassia abrabica), Bhringraj {Eclipta alba) etc. to impart shades of colour
varying from red to dark brown.
(h) P te ro ca rp us in d ic u s (Nara). The whole plant ( 1kg) is extracted with hot
water, filtered. The filtrate is dried and mixed with 100 ml o f sesame oil. It
is applied daily on hair to gave a back colour.
(i) R ub ia tin c to ru m (Bacho). The whole plant (1 kg) is extracted with hot
water, filtered and the filtrate is dried and mixed with 1 0 0 ml of sesame
oil. It is applied daily on hair to impart black shade of colour.
(j) Sanssurea la ppa (Kuth / Kust). The dried alcoholic extract of root is
mixed with other herbs and applied on hair, in the form of paste, to give a
dark brownish black colour.
(k) Term ina lia be le rica (Behera). Its seed oil is applied on the hair for
blackening them.
(I) T inospora c o rd ifo lia (Giloe). It is used with gokhru (1:1) in fine powder.
The powder (5 gm) is ingested with honey thrice daily for blackening of
hair.
283
(iii) P lan ts u s e d as a n ti d a n d ru ff agen ts
(a) A rc tin m la p pa (Great burdock). Its roots are kept in 70% alcohol for 5
days, then filtered, the filtrate is diluted with distilled water. This is used
for massaging the scap daily. It is beneficial in removal of dandruff.
(b) B etu la p e n d u la (Birch). Its fresh or dried leaves are extracted in 70%'
alcohol for 3 days and filtered. The filtrate is used daily for massaging of
scalp, which prevents dandmff.
(c) C alendu la o ff ic ia ls (Gule-abbas). Alcoholic (70%) extract o f its flowers is
mixed with hair oils, shampoos and creams. These preparations are used
to cure the dandruff.
(d) U rtica d io ic a (Stinging nettle). The fresh or dried leaves (100g) are
dipped in 300 ml of 70% alcohol and distilled water. So that solution will
cover the plant material. The solution is kept for 3-5 days and filtered:
daily 1-2 spoons of filtrate is applied on the head. It gives relief from
dandruff.
(iv) P lan ts u se d as h a ir to n ic /h a ir n o u ris h a r
(a) A nn ica m o n ta n a (Arnica) Dried alcoholic (70%) extract o f the flower is
mixed with vegetable oil and applied on hair, it prevents the falling of hair.
(b) C entella a s ia tic a (Mandukarparni). Dried aqueous extract o f whole plant
is mixed with till oil and applied on hair. It enhances the growth of hair.
(c) C ocus n u c ife ra (Nariyal). The oil is rubbed on head. It is also a base for
various hair oil formulations.
284
(d) E c lip ta a lba (Bhringraj). The dried aqueous extract of the whole plant Is
mixed with sesame oil and rubbed on hair. It is used as a nourisher to
hair.
(e) M orus a lba (Shatoot). The fruits (lOOg) are extracted with hot water and
filtered through a cloth. The filtrate (20ml) is ingested orally twice daily. It
prevents the premature and greying of hair.
(f) N a rd os ta ch ys ja ta m a n s i (Jatamansi). The rhizome is extracted with
water, made the extract alkaline by addition o f ammonia and applied on
hair. It promotes the growth o f hair and also imparts black colour to hair.
(g) P h y lla n th u s e m b lica (Amla). Its dried aqueous extract is mixed with
sesame oil and applied on hair. It promote the hair growth. When its
aqueous extract is kept in iron pen for 3 days, then this can be used with
henna, hibiscus, Catechu, etc. as a hair dye which produces black shades
In hair.
(h) P ilo ca rp u s ja b o ra n d l (jaborandi). Its dried alcoholic extract of leaves is
mixed with vegetable oil. It helps in thick and healthy growth o f hair.
(i) Thym us s e rp y llu m (Benajwain). Both alcoholic and aqueous extracts of
whole herb are used as a hair tonic, which imparts healthy and then
growth of hair.
285
Hair ton ics
About 70% isopropanol applied as a hair tonic after shampooing has an
effect on the process of lipid restitution (Gloor e t a/.. 1973). Lipid levels are
incased in the distal part of the hair if spirituous hair tonic is applied on the
day after shampooing. This may be explained by a transfer o f scalp lipids to
the distal part o f the hair. On the second day, 16% less lipids are traceable
after the application of hair tonic. Thus the application of spirituous hair tonic
makes the hair seem fattier at first, but it then probably o f slows the
process of lipid restitution. Aqueous hair tonics are also probably effective in
the same way (Gloor, et al. 1974).
286
MATERIALS AND METHODS
EXPERIMENTAL
A. Hair dye formulation
1. Preparation o f aqueous herbal extracts from powdered d rug
Hibiscus rosa-sinensis leaves (250 g), Nardostachys jatamansi rhizomes
(250 g), Saussarea lappa roots (250 g), Amla (250 g) and Kattha (250 g) were
extracted with distilled water for 72 hours. The aqueous extracts were dried
on steam bath under vacuum to get dark coloured masses ( 5-10 %).
2. Preparation o f fo rm ula tion
The quantities o f dried aqueous extracts and powdered herbs were taken as
mentioned in the Table 8.1. All the ingredients were mixed in sufficient
quantity o f distilled water to prepare uniform viscous pastes (Table 8.1)
3. A pp lica tion o f fo rm ula tions on sheep w ool fibe rs
The sheep wool (natural) coil, collected from Ludhiana market, Punjab, was
cut into small pieces and washed with petroleum ether four times to remove
fatty materials. The wool pieces were dipped into each formulation in a
beaker for one hour. The wool pieces were dried and then washed with
distilled water. The washed wool fibers were divided into three categories to
observed the affects o f room temperature, sunlight and natural detergent.
287
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1 2 3 M 5 6 7 8 3 l o 1 1 U 1 5 l f
Plate 8.3
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 iil5 lif
Plate 8.4
1 2 3 ^ 3 6 7 8 9 10 11 -12.15 1*f
Effect of Room temperature on coloured sheep wool threads
Plate 8.5
“ 1 '
I Plate 8.6
4 5 6 7 8 s
1 2 3 ^ 5 6 7 8 9 1 0 1 1 1 2 .1 5 W
Plate 8.7
Effect of sunlight on coloured sheep wool threads
290
Plate 8.8
1213 1H
Plate 8.9
Plate 8.10
Effect of natural detergent on coloured sheep wool threads
291
a. Effect of room temperature on coloured wool fibers
The coloured wool fibers were pasted on a white paper sheet covered with
transparent cellophane sheet and then kept for 30 days at room temperature
at the interval of 0, 15 and 30 days photographs were taken
(Plates 8.2-8.4).
b. Effect of sunlight on coloured wool fibers
The coloured wool fibers were pasted on a white paper sheet, covered with a
transparent cellophane sheet and kept in open sunlight for two hours daily for
30 days. At the interval of 0, 15 and 30 days photographs were taken
(Plates 8.5-8.7).
c. Effect of natural detergent on coloured wool fibers
A 30 % w/v aqueous solution of Reetha ( Sapindus mukorrossi ) was
prepared. The coloured wool fibers were-washed with the Reetha aqueous
solution for one minute on alternate days and their photographs were, taken
on 0.15 and 30'*’ days (P^^s"8;8^.10).
4. Clinical trial of hair dye formulations
Six formulations HD - 1, HD-3, HD-4, HD-1-1 HD-13 and HD-14 were
selected. One each formulation was applied to a group of 25 volunteers. The
formulations were applied on hair of volunteers and air dried for 2 hours and
washed off with water. All these formulations were also tested for patch test
(allergic reactions).
Patcli test.
A small quantity of paste is applied on the back of ear. After 15 minutes this
paste is removed and the area is watched carefully. If there was irritation/
allergic reaction, the application of that formulation was avoided.
292
TS of rabbit skin showing
hairfoiiicle, matrix ceii root
sheath, vasicuiar nuclei with >
Plate 8.11
formulation HN-1.
Plate 8.12
TS of rabbit skin showing
hairfoiiicle, matrix cell root
sheath, vasicuiar nuclei with
formulation HN-2.
Plate 8.13
TS of rabbit skin showing
hair follicle, matrix cell root
sheath, vasicuiar nuclei with
fomiulation HN-3.
293
TS o f rabbit skin show ing
hair fo llic le , m atrix cell root
sheath, vas icu la r nucle i w ith
form ula tion HN-4.
Plate 8.14
Plate 8.15
TS o f rabb it skin show ing
hair fo llic le , m atrix cell root
sheath, vasicu la r nuclei w ith
form ula tion HN-5.
Plate 8.16
TS o f rabb it skin show ing
ha ir fo llic le , m atrix cell root
V sheath, vas icu la r nuclei w ith
. fo rm u la tion HN-5.
294
TS o f rabb it sk in show ing
ha ir fo llic le , m atrix cell root
sheath, vas icu la r nucle i w ith
form ula tion HN-6 .
Plate 8.17
Plate 8.18
TS o f rabb it sk in show ing
hair fo llic le , m atrix cell root
sheath, vas icu la r nucle i w ith
contro l (coconu t oil).
295
B. Hair Nourisher formulations
1. Prepara{!^ of hair nourishing formulation
One or more dried powders of N. jatamansi. S. lappa and H. rosa sinensis
were m ix^ with coconut oil (Table 8.2). Coconut oil was also used as a
blank formulation for comparative study.
The air dried coarsely powdered drug was/were mixed in coconut oil, warmed
at 6- - 70° C on a water bath for 5 - 6 hours and then kept at room
temperature for 72 hours. The material was filtered through an absorbent
cotton pad. ][he filtrate was kept in an air tight container (sufficient quantity of
anti-oxidant was added). Coconut oil was used as a blank application.
2. Application of formulations on animals
Rabbits,w^e selected for application. Three rabbits were used for each
formulation.. Rabbits’ hair were shaved with razor at three places. One spot
was used for formulation, second spot for the use of blank (coconut oil) and
third spot for observing nomial growth of hair. All the seven formulations were
applied on the hair removed portion of each group of rabbits daily for 30
days. After the interval of 7.14, 21, 28 days length of hair of each rabbit was
measured and a small portion of skin was dissected from each portion of
application and control which contained hair root, after giving local
anaesthetic to the rabbits (one from each group). TTie histological studies of
these dissected skin pieces of rabbits were prepared. These slides were
examined under trinocular research microscope and their photographs were
taken with the help of camera (Plates 8.11 - 8.18).
296.
Table 8.2. Preparation of Herbal hair nourishing formulations from
herbal powders
Formulation Nardostachys Sausurea Hibiscus Coconut Others (ml)
jatamansi (g) lappa (g) rosa oil (ml) ^
'sinensis
(9)
HN-1 - - 50 50 -
HN-2 - 50 - 50^ -
HN-3 50 - - 50 0.5 (a. b)
HN^ - 50 50 100 0.5 (c)
HN-5 50 - 100 0.5 (d)
HN-6 50 - 50 100 -
HN-7 50 50 50 150 -
a - volatile oil of jatamansi
b ' volatile oil of lemon peel
c - volatile oil of orange peel
d - volatile oil of cymbopogon grass
297
Plate 8.19
Plate 8.20
Plate 8.21
Photographs showing the human hair growth
29 8
Three formulations, HN-3, HN-4 and HN -5, were selected out o f these seven
formulations and were applied on a group o f 3 persons. Skull hair o f one
person from each group were shaved with razor from three different places.
Each formulation was applied daily for 30 days (P la tes 8.19 -8.21), along
with the controlled preparation. The third place was kept w ithout form ulation
and coconut oil. A fter an interval of 7,14,21,28 days the length o f ha ir o f
each group was measured. Before applying formulations to these volunteers,
all were tested for patch test/ allergic reaction test. It was found that all the
formulations were free from any allergic reaction in the ir application to human
skin.
3. Application of formulations on human beings
299
OBSERVATIONS
Six hair dye formulations, wz., HD-1 , HD-3, HD-4, HD-11, HD-13 and HD-
14, out of 14 formulations blackened better colourless sheep wool threads
then the individual herbal extracts. The black colouring capacity o f the
formulation HD-3 was maximum. The black colour remained fo r the longest,
duration o f period when the fibers kept at room temperature, in sun light and
washed with natural detergent, the order o f blackening wool fibers by the
herbal formulations was in order o f HD-3 > HD-4 > HD-1 > HD-13 > HD-14
> HD-11.
The black colour retaining power o f the fibers retained for sixty days at room
temperature (Plates 8.2 -8.4). In sun light, the colour stain faided gradually.
After 15 days, the stain remained half of the original stain. It indicated that
UV rays present in sun light effected the hair stain/hair dye (P la tes 8.5 - 8.7).
Washing o f the coloured fibers with the natural detergent on alternate days
did not affect the stain o f the threads. The black colour o f the thread d ipped in
fomriulatlon HD-11 completely faded within 30 days. In other cases the colour
started fading after 25 days. The colour intensities o f thread dipped in
formulations HD-13 and HD-14 became half whereas the intensities o f the
colours o f fibers blackened with HD-1 and HD-4 were lesser then ha lf after
35 days (P lates 8.8 - 8.10). These six formulations were prepared in bulk
quantities, six group o f volunteers o f different age groups were constituted
and each group had 25 volunteers. Each formulation was applied on the
scalp o f 25 volunteers for two hours, air dried and then washed w ith water.
The results were observed daily for 30 days. The percentage o f acceptance
o f these formulations by different groups o f volunteers is given in Table 8.3.
The formulation HD -3 was the most accepted hair dyeing form ulation and
the percentage acceptance was 96 %. The percentage o f acceptance o f the
300
herbal formulations was in the order : HD-3 > HD-4 > HD-1>HD-13 > HD-14 >
HD-11.
Table 8.3. Volunteers percentage for the various formulations of natural
hair dye.
S.N. Formulation No. of volunteers accepting the formulation
% o f acceptance
1 HD-1 2 1 84.00
2 HD-3 24 96.00
3 H D - 4 22 88.00
4 HD-11 18 72.00
5 HD-13 2 1 84.00
6 HD-14 20 80.00
Each formulation was applied to a group of 25 volunteers.
The growth of hair length of those rabbits was maximum when the
formulations HN-3 was applied to their skin. The order of the growth o f the
hair with the application o f the herbal formulation was in the o rd e r:
HN-3 > HN-7 > HN-6 > HN-5 > HN-4 > HN-1 > HN-2 (Table 8.4 - 8.7).
301
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The size hair root was maximum with the formulation HN-3 and followed by
HN-7. HN-6 , HN-5, HN-4, HN-1 and HN-2. In all cases size o f hair roots was
larger than the control one.
Matrix cell
In the hair bulbs, there was maximum increase o f the cells o f hair matrix in
case o f HN-3 formulation. These cells were having large vesicular nuclei and
the basophilic cytoplasm. The number o f the cells were in the following
decreasing order HN-7. HN-6 , HN-5, HN-4, HN-1 and HN-2. With HN-4. HN-1
and HN-2 the number o f hair matrix cells were similar.
Fo llic le papila
The follicle papila was prominent and large in all the test formulation in
comparison to control one. H ow ever, it was maximum in HN-3.
Root sheath
The outer root sheath constituted by clear cells and these were more
prominent in HN-3 and HN-6 . The Henle’s layer was equally prominent and
thick in all test formulations than control.
C oncentra tion o f ha ir
The number o f hair follicle appeared to be maximum per unit area in HN-3.
followed by HN-7, HN-6 . HN-5 , HN-4. HN-1 and HN-2. In case o f all test
formulations numbers o f hair were significantly higher than the control.
However, enlargement o f the Hair follicle with increase in proliferation o f
different cellular components were identical in all the test formulations (P la tes
8 . 1 1 -8.18).
Size of hair root
306
The formulation HN-3, HN-4 and HN-5 were tested on three groups o f human
beings having three members/ volunteers in each group. The length o f hair
measured from all three formulations {Plates 8.19- 8.21). Regular growth w as
reported from these three formulations were the maximum growth (length) o f
hair was from formulation HN-3 (Table 8.8 - 8 .1 1 ).
Table 8 .8 . M easurem ent o f Human Hair a fte r one w eek (leng th in mm)
S.No. Condition Formulations
HN-3 H N -4 HN-5
1 H air growtli Aj B |, Cl A j B 2 , C2 A jB j, C 3
(N orm al) (Average) (A verage) (A verage)
2.71 2.69 2.72
2 Hair grow th w itli control sam ple 2.77 2.72 2.78
3 H air grow th w ith form ulation 2.98 2 . 8 8 2.82
Ai -As. B i - Ba, C i - C3 Stands for human beings.
Table 8.9. Measurement o f Human Hair after second week (length in mm)
S.No. Condition Formulations
HN-3 HN-4 H N -5
1 H air grow th A | B |, Ci A 2 B j, Cl A j B j, C 3
(Norm al) (Average) (A verage) (A verage)
5.32 5.28 5.36
2 H air grow th w ith control sam ple 5.52 5.48 5.54
3 H air grow th witli form ulation 6 . 0 1 5.74 5.66
Ai -A3, Bi - 8 3 , Cl - C3 stands for human beings.
307
Table 8.10. Measurement of Human Hair after third week (length in mm)
S.No. Condition Formulations
HN-3 HN-4 HN-5
1 Hair growth A|_B|, Cl Az.8 2 , C 2 A 3.B3 , C j(Normal) (Average) (Average) (A verage)
8.16 8.09 8.18
2 Hair growth witli control sam ple 8.32 8.18 8.36
3 Hair growUi w ith formulation 8.98 8.69 8.48
Ai -A3, Bi - 03 , Ci - C3 stands for human beings.
Table 8.11, Measurement of Human Hair after fourth week (length in mm)
S.No. Condition Formulations
HN-3 HN-4 HN-5
1 H air growth Ai Bi, C | A 2 B 2, Cj A3 .B}, C 3
(Normal) (Average) (Average) (A verage)
10.76 10.73 10.82
2 H air growth with control sample 10.98 10.92 11.14
3 H air growtli with formulation 11.98 11.54 11.32
Ai 'A 3, Bi - B3, Ci - Ca star\ds for human beings.
308
RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS
In case o f hair dye formulations, the best fornriulation was HD-3 out o f 14
formulations. This formulations gave good results on sheep wool threads as
well as on the human hair. Nardostachys ja ta m a n s i has been already
reported fo r blackening o f hair. The black colour o f hair (from dye) was
increased with the addition o f other herbal ingredients, i.e.. H ib iscus rosa
sinensis, Saussurea lappa and Lawsonia inerm is to the formulations. These
herbs acted synergically whereas in case o f formulations for hair growth the
formulation HN-3, which is having N ardostachys ja ta m a n s i w ith
volatile oils o f jatamansi and lemon peel, gave good response and the
maximum hair growth was observed from this formulation followed by
formulation HN-5 and HN-4, respectively. In formulation HN-5, there were two
herbs, namely N ardostachys ja tam an s i and Saussurea lappa, but this
formulation was not able to increase the length o f hair. The length o f hair was
somewhat equal to HN-3 formulation. In formulation HN-4, formulated by
adding Hib iscus rasa sinensis and Saussurea lappa, was not able to g ive the
length o f hair equal to that o f formulation HN-3. The formulation HN-3 and
HN-4 were also very effective against dandm ff hair m ight be due to the
present o f lemon and orange volatile oil.
In rabbits, the formulation HN-3 caused the enlargement o f hair follicle with
hyperplasia o f cellular constituents which was proportional to hair length.
309
REFERENCES
Allden, W.G. Feed intake, d ie t com position and w ool grow th. In : Black, J.L.;
Reis, P.J. (eds) Physio log ica l and environm ental lim ita tions to w oo l grow th.
University o f New England Publishing Unit, Armidale, pp 61-78,1979.
Ambasta, S.T. Useful p lants o f India, RID, CSIR, New Delhi, 1986.
Bottomley, G.A. W eather conditions and wool grow th. In : Black, J.L., Reis,
P.J. (eds) Physiologica l and environm ental lim ita tions to w oo l grow th.
University o f New England Publishing Unit, Armidale, pp 115- 125,1979.
Brunner, H.; Brunner, A.; Gerendas, J. A fraction fronn oxidized wool with a
high tyrosine content. Appl. Polym. Symp., 18, 55-64, 1971.
Chapman, R.E. A com parison o f the effects o f som e defleec ing com pounds
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aminophenoxy) pentyl] phthalimide on wool folicles and skin o f sheep. A ust.
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