HERBAL COSMETICS

PHARMACOGNOSY III

TONY JOSE & TONY JOSE

COSMETICS

According to D & C Act 1940• Any article intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled orsprayed on or introduced to or applied to any part of humanbody for cleansing, beautifying, promoting, attractiveness oraltering the appearance and includes any article intended foruse as component of cosmetics.

• Included in this definition are products such as skinmoisturizers, perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail polishes, eye andfacial makeup preparations, shampoos, permanent waves, haircolors, toothpastes, and deodorants, as well as any materialintended for use as a component of a cosmetic product

• If the safety of a cosmetic product has not been substantiated,the product's label must read:WARNING: “The safety of this product has not beendetermined.“

Influence of Cosmetics –

• Wearing more makeup has been positively correlated with women’spublic self-consciousness (Miller & Cox, 1982)

•Cosmetics allow women to feel better aboutthemselves (Cash, 1987, 1988)

•Self-esteem / believe increases (Wright et al., 1970)

•Enhances social interactions (Miller & Cox, 1982)

INTRODUCTION

Herbal products are safe because they arenaturalcan be harmful if consumed improperly or in

excessive amounts•Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products with

biologically active ingredients purporting to havemedical or drug‐like benefits. They ingredientwith medicinal properties that manifestsbeneficial topical actions and provides protectionagainst degenerative skin conditions.•Cosmeceuticals improve appearance by

delivering nutrients necessary for healthy skin.

ADVANTAGES of Herbal Cosmetics

They do not provoke allergic reaction & do not have negativeside effects.

They are easily incorporated with skin and hair.

With small quantity they are very effective as compared tosynthetic cosmetics.

Easily available & found in large variety & quantity.

DISADVANTAGES of Herbal Cosmetics

Herbal drugs have slower effects as compare to Allopathic dosageform. Also it requires long term therapy.

They are difficult to hide taste and odor.

Manufacturing process are time consuming and complicated.

No pharmacopoeia defines any specific procedure or ingredients to beused in any of herbal cosmetics.

TYPES ACCORDING TO SITE OF APPLICATION

Skin

Hair

Dentifrice / Dental Products

Nail

Eyes

HERBAL COSMETICS FOR SKIN

The herbal approach of proper skin care is principally based on threeessential steps.

Cleanse

Nourish

Moisture

Whatever may be the type of skin; these three steps are external careof the skin to protect from the constant effect of environment, stressand skins natural process of cell degradation decay.

Contd…..

Therefore in order to help the skin look young and radiant.

Exfoliation to remove dead skin cells.

Epidermal stimulation for new cell growth.

Antioxidant properties for cellular rejuvenation and repair.

Improve capillary blood flow.

Penetrating moisture and nutrients to replenish all layers of skin.

HERBAL COSMETICS FOR VARIOUS TYPES OF SKINFOR DRY SKIN

Example of Herbs:

Rubia Cardifolia (Manjista), Triphla, Tulsi,

Glycerihza glabra in sesame oil.

Fruit face mask:

Banana or avocado pulp.

FOR SENSITIVE SKIN

Example of Herbs:

curcuma longa, triphala, azadircta indica mustaka, nimba incoconut oil.

Fruit face mask:

Banana or pineapple pulp.

FOR OILY SKIN

Example of Herbs:

Tulsi, idhora, jatiphata, nimba, terminalia arjuna, Triphla, curcumalonga, mustaka in musterd oil , milk, sour milk, cream and buttermilk are used as gentle natural cleanser.

Fruit face mask:

Strawberry or papaya pulp.

TYPES OF HERBAL CREAMS

COLD CREAMS:It is an emulsion in which the fat predominates, butthe cooling effect produced when it is applied to theskin is due to skin evaporation of the watercontained.Formula:Almond oil 550 partsWhite wax 145 partsBorax 10 partsWater 290 partsRose water 5 parts

Cont….

VANISHING CREAMS:

Vanishing creams are also called foundation creams because theydisappears when rubbed into skins.

Formula:

Stearic acid 130 parts

Borax crystals 28 parts

Sodium carbonate 12 parts

Water 740 parts

Rose oil 9 parts

Cont…

CLEANSING CREAMS:

A satisfactory cleansing cream is water in oil emulsion that melts attemperature of body and spreads readily over the skin.

Formula: Chamomile cleansing creams

Chamomile flower 50 parts

Distilled water 500 parts

Lemon juice 5 parts

Sodium benzoate 2 parts

TYPES OF HERBAL LOTIONS

FACE LOTION:

These also called the bleaching lotions actually mask, rather thanlighten, the color of skin.

Like the whitening creams.

Formula:Alum 10 parts

Zinc sulfate 1 parts

Glycerin 1 parts

Tincture of benzoin 1 parts

Essence of rose 30 drops

Herbs for Skin

TYPES OF HERBAL HAIR CARE PRODUCTS

HAIR OIL:

The hail oils used for dressings and nourishing the hairs and grace toappearance of hasirs.

This preparations is generally used to increase the growth of hair andremains healthy.

Hair oil should have following properties:

They should give luster to the hair.

Retain them soft and flowing.

Invigorate their growth.

Keep the brain cool.

Should not be sticky.

HAIR LOTION:

Hair lotion has a stimulating effect upon the hair follicles. They aregenerally perfumed with oil of rosemary and others ascenes as itposses a good stimulating property.

HAIR COLORANTS:

These are preparations which are used for the coloring of hthehairs. They enhances the attractiveness of gray hair. They areapplied externally on the hair with help of brush.

Cont…

SHAMPOO:

Shampoo is preparation of surfactant

in suitable form liquid, solid or

powder- which when used under

the condition specified will

remove surface grease, dirt, and

skin debris from the hair shaft and scalp without affecting adverselythe hair, scalp or health of the user.

QUALLITIES OF AN IDEAL HAIR PRODUCT

Protect the hair cuticle.

Cleans without stripping natural oils.

Replace lost protein, moisture, and nutrients.

Condition without weighing down the hair.

Even without porosity and prevent moisture loss.

Smooth abraded cuticle scales.

Prevent intense drying from environment.

Herbs for Hair

HERBALS USED IN DENTIFRICEDefinition.

Dentifrice are the preparations intended for usewith a toothbrush for the purpose of cleaning theaccessible surfaces of teeth.They have been prepared in paste, powder and to alesser extent in liquid and block form.Formula:Soap powder 7.2 partsSaccharin 0.24 partsAmaranth (solution) 1.0 partsOil of cinnamon 0.6 partsOil of peppermint 0.6 partsOil of clove 1.2 partsAlcohol 90 partsDistilled water 120 parts

cont…

Formula: DentifricesSoap powder 7.2 parts

Saccharin 0.24 parts

Amaranth (solution) 1.0 parts

Oil of cinnamon 0.6 parts

Oil of pappermint 0.6 parts

Oil of clove 1.2 parts

Alcohol 90 parts

Distilled water 120 parts

Cont…

Characteristics of dentifrices:

It reduces the incidence of tooth decay.

Helps to maintaining the gingivae.

Reduces the intensity of mouth odors.

Good dental health increases the possibility of good general health,leading secondary result of cleaning teeth.

HERBALS USED IN NAIL CARE

Fungal infections of nails are very common and difficult to cure

Nails are considered one of the body’s hardest and strongest tissue.

The conventional treatment of nail fungal infection is expensive andlong term.

People prefer herbal and natural way to treat so that side effects areminimized.

Following herbs used curing nail infections.

Lavendula officinalis

Melaleuca latrifolia

Cybopogon citrates

Syzygium aromaticum

Thyme vulgaris

Allium sativum

These herbs have a deep penetration power which aids in thedestruction of nail fungus, since fungus infects the root of nail.

NAIL POLISHA nail polish or enamel in order to be successful must contain a filmformer whose characteristics are ease of brushing application, fast dryingand hardening and whose formulations should enhance adhesion to thenail without losing its resistance to chipping and abrasion.

Formula:

Celluloidal film 250 parts

Amylacetate 250 parts

Acetone 750 parts

Eosine q.s.

HERBAL EYE SHADOW

• Eye shadows are used to give a background of color to the eye.

• Various shades of eye shadows are available in market eg. blue,green, brown.

• Eye shadows may be either in solid form or in liquid paste form.

Quality characteristics of eye shadow are:

They should have good skin adhesion and should be easy toapply.

They should not show oily luster after application.

They should be non-irritant and safe.

Formula:

Parsley 1 parts

Vegetable oil 4 parts

GUIDELINES FOR USING HERBS

Stop taking an herb if any side effect develops such as allergy,stomach upset, skin rash or headache.

Purchase standardized herbal products.

Herbal products are not recommended for:

• Pregnant or lactating women• Infants or children under 05 years of age

EVALUTIONS OF THE FINISHED PRODUCTThe finished product should be standardized in terms of:

Shelf lifeColorToxicity studiesBiological assaySkin irritation testSensitization testPatch test

STORAGE OF HERBS

Herbs should be stored in cool and dry place.

Moisture can damage the herbs.

Also moisture promotes bacterial and fungal growth.

Dried herbs should be stored in air tight container.

Herbs should not be stored in direct sunlight.

Selected Herbal Active Ingredients

Some Marketed Herbal Products

CONCLUSION

The usage of herbal cosmetics has beenincreased to many folds in personal care systemand there is a great demand for the herbalcosmetics.

The use of bioactive ingredients in cosmeticsinfluence biological functions of skin and providenutrients necessary for the healthy skin or hair.

There is tremendous scope to launch numerousherbal cosmetics using appropriate bioactiveingredients with suitable fatty oil, essential oils,proteins and additives.